C O T T E R J A M E S

Handmade Christmas Gifts Frugally Victorian and Mid Century

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Wed, 31 Oct 2012 20:11:00 +0000

The Victorians appreciated personal handmade gifts of monogrammed and embroidered linens at Christmas and considered them wonderful expressions of friendship and family. Contrary to the practice of spending far too much money for gifts today, the time invested in even the simplest piece of linen was valued greatly. Here are some beautiful ideas for gifts you can invest a little time is creating that will surely be appreciated for years and generations to come.

Good, wonderfully woven fabrics are readily available in vintage linen shops locally and online. Hand towels, tea towels, kitchen towels, pillowcases and small table cloths and linen runners are perfect for the simple embroidered monogram or a center cartouche embellishment. Vintage damask fabric have beautiful field patterns in many motifs which feature a center frame called a cartouche. That is the traditional area for the single or entwined monogram or symbol. A flower or geometric choice, even a white on white running stitch outlining some of the detail in the damask pattern highlights the quality of the piece. Bold colors or pastels, in cross stitch, whip stitch and outlined with a contrasting color make a stunning piece.

Alphabet transfers can be found at any craft or fabric shop. Online vintage shops on etsy have an lovely assortment of old embroidery transfer patterns that will make a lovely presentation as a gift as well. Silk, cotton and wool yarn or floss is available in a huge assortment or colors and sheen these days at the local craft or fabric store. You can find simple stitch instructions online and demonstrations on youtube.com if you have trouble following the directions from pictures in an embroidery book. Again, the work doesn't have to be complicated and in fact, the simpler, the better.

Another great idea is working a simple monogram in the corner of a good quality linen vintage kitchen or tea towel. The rage these days is old German or French linen toweling and you may see samples of this kind of work with just a tiny initial in the corner, usually in black or red. You can choose any color you like, and scale the initials to the the size of the stripes or pattern of the towel.

Choosing the right textile is important. Good, thick, tightly woven fabric holds the stitches properly and wears well with use. Good fabric doesn't have to be ironed at all if pulled from the dryer when still slightly damp and laid flat to finish drying. The cottage chic look of the natural weave of the fabric is charming.

Kitchen towels can be embroidered with the words, Glass, China, Silver or days of the week as well. Even vintage calender towels can be outline embroidered for a special look around the year or embellished on particular birthdays and anniversary dates.

You can find calender towels going back decades that are in fabulous condition on etsy or other retro textile shops and ebay. Read the descriptions carefully and inquire as to the specific condition and quality. Kay-Dee is an excellent brand, Startex, Martex, Stevens, Cannon and Wilendur are quality brands as well. I would avoid the reproduction Moda brands sometimes marketed as Aunt Martha because the fabric is thin and while it's vintage-like, it's not good vintage quality. The fabric doesn't have the heft to embroider on the front surface. Quality work, even the most simple work doesn't have to go through the fabric. Thick, hefty vintage linen has the required hand so the majority of the work never has to go through to the back.

Small Linen or cotton table toppers are an excellent field for your embellishments. Usually 32 to 34 inches square, these old cloths were traditionally used for card tables. Ladies played bridge as a regular club activity back in the day and the hostess usually had to set 3 to 4 tables. They weren't used much and sometimes the embroidered work on these cloths is perfect as a gift the way they are. Or the old work is easily picked out to start again with your design. Today, these cloths work beautifully for small side tables and as a cover cloth atop another on a dinner table. So search around for some great vintage linens that will make wonderful gifts and add your special touch. Your effort will be cherished and appreciated.

www.teaworkscottage.etsy.com

Buying Vintage Linens Some Tips for Success

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Sun, 28 Oct 2012 17:10:00 +0000

I love the hunt for good quality vintage linens but sometimes regardless of the quality, you can end up bring home more than you paid for. Value is important, of course, but so is the condition. Sometimes that can be hard to determine through the dirt and soil. Obvious stains don't bother me nearly as much as box lots of fabric covered in dirt, boxes that clearly have old water marks and mold and the smell of old, old musty cellars or mothballs. So here are some tips you might find useful so you don't plunk down contemporary money for linens that are beyond vintage and suitable only for the compost heap.

Textile Auctions can offer a great selection in one place but don't get carried away. First take a look at the box. If it has obvious water damage and dirt, wear a pair of gloves and turn the linens over to the bottom of the box. If it looks like the linens have been there a while without airing, lift a couple pieces from the bottom and middle of the stack and hold them to the light. You'll be able to see thin spots and unfolding the piece will tell if the creases have been ironed in a long time. Look for signs of critters, mold and old darkened starch.

Brown fold lines can mean the linen was laying in a wooden drawer without a liner between the linen and the wood. Over the years, the fabric can absorb the oils and sap in wood as well as the finish stain or oil. These stains are very hard to remove without damaging the fabric. The fabric can absorb acids and moisture from cardboard as well, just like old prints and pictures. Again, very difficult to remove without weakening the fabric. Unless the quality of the linen is excellent, pass this kind of damage by, especially if the linens looked well-used. Full on bleaching and powerful soaks like oxy will remove the stain eventually but they also destroy the fiber.

Old Starch. Back in the day, ladies used starch to stiffen linens and that was fine when used lightly and if the linen was used frequently. Old starch is a lovely treat for silverfish and over the years, undisturbed linens can host a colony of these critters, not to mention mice. Even, brown coloration, dull yellowing and gray hues mean the linen may have been put away with residual soil or improperly rinsed of wash water. Starch will brown or turn a dull yellow over years. So be wary of the strength of the fabric and gently pull on an inconspicuous corner to see if the fabric gives. If it is dry and weak, it is going to split, especially along fold lines. Thin, shiny fabric is fragile and past use so discard it.

Obvious food stains can be difficult to remove. First of all, they have been set for a long time. Second, the original owner probably washed and dried the same stain several times before the piece ended up in the drawer for years. Heat sets stains and ironing sets stains. The fatty acids in grease and food will weaken fiber of time. If the stains are light and few, take a chance but check the piece carefully against the light for weak spots and tiny holes.

Remove linens you buy from their box and place them in a heavy garbage bag and tie it tight. Don't transport old, musty boxes in your car and don't bring them into your home. Roaches love old boxes and make homes in cardboard. The old musty smell is mold and not something you want to bring home either.

Choose a sheltered space outside your home to store the bags until you are ready to wash them. Open the bag outside to inspect and shake out every piece then bring them straight to the washing machine. Use a good amount of detergent, no bleach or oxy, and the hottest water for the longest wash cycle. Then run the load through again with no additional detergent. It takes time for fabric to wet all the way through. Remove from the washer and inspect each piece before you put them in the dryer. Determine how you'd like the treat the problems you find before you allow the fabric to dry. You may find you'll need to treat, soak, treat, wash, and over again several times before the problems are resolved. It takes time and care to remove decades of problems but if done carefully, the result is well worth the effort.

If one napkin in a set has some stains, you'll need to wash the entire set as often as you do the one that has a problem if you want to end up with a set that matches. Blue fabrics from any era almost never hold up to spot treatments that leave streaks and lighter areas on the piece. Always treat the entire piece of any fabric to avoid streaking.

I hope these tips are helpful and I think they are even more important if you are considering buying linen lots online. Be careful of descriptions that include 'as found', stains that may or may not soak out, have not washed, etc. Just remember to open the box outdoors because their 'as found' doesn't have to enter your home as it left theirs. Personally, I don't want someone' mold spores floating around my house. If you are selling linens, wash them and do not iron them if they have stains you do not intend to resolve. Just allow the fabric to naturally dry so the buyer has a better chance of handling the issues without a problem.

Mid Century Autumn Colors for Dinnerware

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 22:04:00 +0000

Stangel and Fenton

Mixing Mid Century Dinnerware and Glass from the same era can produce some fun
combinations. Fenton Thumbprint Stemware and Stangle Dinnerware, mix up some fabulous Stoneware from Japan and Smoke Goblets from Anchor Hocking. California Pottery and Dinerware from New Jersey. Color values count, not exact shades of this or that. Imagine how much fun it would be to set a table with completely different place settings all in the same color range.

Minton USA

Harlequin Homer Laughlin

There is so much style and art on dinnerware, choose a theme like Autumn from these Cup and Saucer sets in Harlequin by Homer Laughlin. Mid Century amber is usually shunned but it mixes so well with earthy neutrals in stoneware. It's easy to collect 3 or 4 of this from the Thrift or yard sale. Add it to 3 or 4 of that from another yard sale keeping the color values in mind. Just be picky about perfect condition and you'll have a table full of fabulous things in no time!

Diner Ware and Japan

Don't forget to add eclectic things like charming salt and pepper sets, gravy boats and vintage flower planters can be fun as a centerpiece or bread tray.

California and Japan

Rocking 1960's Glass in Full Color

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 21:21:00 +0000

Just a few pictures of wonderful glass full of color to brighten your day!

Poster of Vintage Cool on Etsy

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Sun, 12 Aug 2012 13:38:00 +0000

Treasuries are curated by members of etsy who put together a collection of the things that appeal the eye. Here is a neat combination of vintage treasures!

Mid Century Combinations for the Dinner Table

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Sat, 23 Jun 2012 00:30:00 +0000

Here are some fabulous combinations for the dinner table, lunch table and entertaining:

Goblets: Fenton Thumbprint Water and Champagne. Use them for wine and sherbert, ice cream or shrimp cocktail. They also make fabulous cocktail glasses. Circa 1960's

Mid Century Dinner Plate: Ironstone RedWing

Silverware: Danish Modern, teal rivet handle, stainless steel, Japan.

Mellow Yellow

Coffee Cup

Rust and Yellow Gold

Patterned Saucer

Rust

Mid Century Amber

Water Glass

Sherbert Glass

Clover Rust

Diner Plate

Danish Modern

Silverware

I love neutrals from the Mid Century pallet too, take a look at some variations of Harkerware in soft sage green, pink and off white. Fabulous! The pinks and grays look great in Pink Bamboo Plates with large floral cups.

Vintage Dinnerware Retro Mix and Match

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Sun, 24 Jul 2011 02:12:00 +0000

The style of any era is found in everything from clothing to furniture, automobiles and architecture. Blue jeans are made by just about all clothing houses and dinnerware trends, then as now, follow seasonal color. That is why you'll find the same color values in the 1940's, 1950's and 60's across many of the pottery houses. If you find one color or pattern is overwhelming or boring but you like a piece or shape of one element in a trend, you can tone it down or liven it up by pulling elements from another line to develope a fabulous look for your table settings. For example, here is a place setting of Old Ivory China, Syracuse Pattern which is rather formal.

We've pulled the beautiful handled soup bowl and liner plate to compliment a simple yet elegant Bavarian china plate with a fabulous detailed band for an entirely different look. Shifting Depression Glass Pink stemware for crystal stemware would be lovely. The values of purple and pink work together to bring 1910 to 1950. This combination works for dinner or a cozy dessert setting. Search local thrift and antique shops for small sets of salad plates, shallow coupe shape soup bowls and berry bowls. Handled soup bowls also make fabulous serving pieces for dips, glazes and sauces. Often they can be found with their liner plates or are easily matched with compliment saucers. Portions were smaller 100 years ago because dinner was served with more courses. You'll find an amazing variety of china in useful shapes. Put them to a contemporary purpose.

Eames Era Dinnerplates with a unique patterns such as the Greenbriar pattern made by Knowles in the 1950's, can be mixed with something brillant like the soup bowl and liner plate in the Malvern pattern Royal Doulton or another explosive pattern in compliment color.

The 1950's and early 1960's trended toward the aqua, teal and turquoise pallet. We enjoyed patterns like Temporama and Blue Heaven by Royal China, and variations of the wheat motif in the same medium blue values by other pottery houses. It's marvelous to mix stripes with subtle patterns if the hues are similar.

We found this teal and grey striped dinnerplate (the pattern is called Holiday) and mixed the pieces with a few other styles from the same era. The casual elegant look is pleasing.

Picking a neutral stoneware dinnerplate like the Harkerware dinnerplate below, and building accent above it opens up a few more opportunites to pull that unused china out of the cupboard and use it!

Marcrest is another pattern with an Eames theme and introduces black. The solid medium blue coffee cup is a little more intense in value than the aqua turquoise, but can work with black. Obviously we would mix the wheat feather look with Marcrest, but you get the idea of the value change.

Possibilities are endless! Keep an eye out for a hue or value and pull them into your design. Choose a color or two and focus on adding bits with the purpose of expanding your tableware without having to buy a brand new set. Be inventive!

Real Thrift Doesn't Mean Cheap! Vintage Linens

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 20:39:00 +0000

Lot's of folks consider themselves 'thrifty'. Maybe they are and maybe they aren't. Way back in the day, the word, 'thrift' meant buying something of value and quality for a reasonable price. Thrift, as I was taught back in the dark ages, is 'buy well, buy once.' We were taught to buy the best quality for the most you can afford because we intended to use it for a lifetime. Remember the quality of things back in the day? We still have bath towels made in the USA from the 1960's and use still use them. We still use dish towels from the 1950's made of linen and cotton to actually dry dishes, and as hand towels in the bathroom. The thread count is high and the quality of the cotton and linen last forever because the fibers are longer and the yarn is thicker. I've seen the new 'vintage look' cotton toweling in the market today, distributed by MODA, and sadly, the quality and expected life span of that stuff is hardly up to snuff. The fiber used in the yarn is short and the weave is not as tight or thick compared to fabrics from the 50's and earlier.

Tablecloths of cotton and linen are wonderful! Good solid fabric with and without printed designs from the mid-century are beautiful and useful. I still use tablecloths from the 1930's and 1940's of wonderful, thick cotton; some of which have a lovely woven damask pattern. The key to long life for tablecloths is to soak them immediately for any serious stain. Cornstarch rubbed into a grease stain and allowed to absorb the grease overnight will usually take care of that problem before washing. It might take a couple of applications, but it will work. Launder tablecloths in cool water and rinse twice to make sure all the detergent is washed out. Pull them out of the dyer while they are still a little damp. Shake them out gently and hang or drape them to dry completely. Good fabric won't really need ironing. A soft, crisp hand can be achieved in the dryer and removing them before they are completely dry will prevent the fibers from shrinking and becoming brittle over time. If you do iron tablecloths, do so when they are lightly damp and use a moderate temp on the iron. Over-ironing will flatten the fibers and creasing the fabric with heat will eventually split the fibers. No starch is necessary and actually can be harmful. Storing linens finished with high heat and starch is a great invite to silverfish and other creatures who to consume the cellulose as a food source.

There are many things you can do with an old tablecloth, especially if it's heavy cotton. The average kitchen towel is about 16 inches wide and 24 to 26 inches in length. It's simple and thrifty to make some fabulous kitchen towels out of an old tablecloth. Just cut out sections from the areas that still good, fold the edges over twice and stitch in place. That's the thrifty alternative to tossing out perfectly good fabric and spending your hard earned money on a new, lesser quality contemporary replacement for kitchen towels. The leftover pieces are still useful as cleaning rags, adding thickness to quilts and patching other tablecloths.

Fabulous cotton napkins from days gone by, are a perfect alternative to reams of paper napkins and their contemporary polyester cousins. Polyester is a petroleum product and as such, latches onto oil stains like salad dressing and sauces made with butter and oil. They don't wash out which is why the cheaply made polyester napkins are never a bargin at any price. Cotton and linen, as natural fibers let go of stains like oil and look great year after year. No need to iron them if you pull them out of the dyer while still slightly damp. Just straighten them and let them finish air drying. And the key to removing stains, just like for all cotton and linen, is to soak them immediately so the stain has no chance of setting. Fancy or casual, natural fiber napkins will last a good long time.

It's easy to find clean, good quality linens online at etsy, (our specialty) and other local specialty shops too. No need to pay retail for lesser quality which have probably been made in China and have poorly finished hems. Thrift means more than the price paid for something. It means buying quality for the use of a lifetime.

Be sure to stop in http://www.teaworkscottage.etsy.com/ for some fabulous linens at truly thrifty prices.

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 22:46:00 +0000

The Television series, Madmen, has brought about a delightful resurgence is all things mid-century and atomic in design and style. Fabulous dinnerware in clean, sharp shapes and elegant in presentation are all the rage.

Made in the USA means something in this day of imports and imitations. Great Pottery Companies of the Ohio River Potteries and West Virginia, California and the Midwest, produced beautiful, functional and enduring dinnerware, art pieces, glass and stemware.

Names like Homer Laughlin, Taylor Smith Taylor, Knowles, Royal China Company, Bauer, Jeannette Glass, Hazel Atlas and New Martinsville Glass, to name just a few, are industry giants who are responsible for beautiful Eames period housewares so sought after today.

We will featuring some of these wonderful companies and showing examples of their fabulous productions. We will also be mixing them with contempory things of today to show you how simple and attractive these gems from the past are useful necessities of today.

The Vintage Kitchen Shop

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 17:35:00 +0000

Ever wonder what you'll do with all the 'stuff' you inherit from a relative who passes on? Well, if your favorite aunt is like mine was, you open a new Vintage Kitchen Shop! Stocked with tons of wonderful things in great condition. It's like taking a walk down memory lane every day.

Seriously! When my aunt passed a year ago and I was in the process of packing up her stuff in Iowa when my mom, bless her, decided to join the party on the other side. Who knows, maybe she'd heard there was a great cribbage game being played over there and left to join a team. And as sad as it was for me, I suddenly had two homes to pack up and do something with all the stuff left to me. Wonderful vintage stuff of all descriptions and eras. You must remember that children who grew up during the depression never, never threw anything away unless is was ruined or worn out beyond repair or usefullness.

I've been selling the bits and pieces, duplicates and sets in my vintage shop on etsy and it's doing well. But the mountain isn't erroding quickly enough, so I made room in my shop in Scituate, MA and have renamed it 'The Vintage Kitchen Shop'. If you are in the neighborhood and love to browse or are in the market for a set of vintage pyrex, Homer Laughlin 1970's stoneware, yellow Cronin tulip pitchers, bowls, or 1950's barware, depression glass or collectible kitchen stuff, stop in! We are located at 763 Country Way in North Scituate, MA. Hours are 11 to 5 Tuesday through Saturday. If you live too far away to make the trip, visit my vintage shop on etsy: http://www.teaworkscottage.etsy.com/ or http://www.vintagekitchenshop.etsy.com/ you might find something you like.

But remember, the things in the shop are not listed on etsy, and visa versa. So is you see something in the online shop you like, feel free to send me a convo and inquire about your wish list. I may just have it!

Parenthood as a Profession

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 15:09:00 +0000

Family members, life-long friends and people who hold a place of authority in your life are all too capable of throwing you under the bus, walking away instead standing up and leaving you holding the bag with resentment that will last for the rest of your life.

Let's start with Parents. Parenthood is greatest Unprofessional Profession on the planet. No entry exam, continuing education or application required. Simply profess a desire to scratch an itch within the bounds of marriage or not, and every applicant is instantly granted the status of parent.

It goes straight downhill from there. Ironically all children eventually turn into clones of their parents to some degree, so this thread of screwing up generation after generation comes honestly. Just ask the children. They will promptly tell you who is the favored, who is the loser and who is the one who did everything just right and still gets lost in the shuffle with nothing to show for their success as far as the parents are concerned.

Think I'm kidding? Listen to the outcome of inheritance stories. The youngest gets the most because they never were quite able to make it on their own. Not surprising since the parents never allowed the kid to suffer the consequences of their poor choices and lack of ambition. So the parents bale them out once more by leaving them more to make up for being such lousy parents. The youngest kid is the one who leaches off everyone. The baby of the family gets away with murder while being patted on the head. This brat is the one who never grows up.

The oldest kid gets some, but actually a pittance compared to the responsibility shouldered for the parents in their declining years. The older kids usually live closer and hang in there with all the chores and medical stuff. The other kids (except for the baby), live far away, barely phone in their support and nothing more. The oldest kid is the one on whom the parents pinned all their hopes and plans. These are the kids who are saddled with most responsiblity and expectations.

The middle kid usually loses out completely. The middle kid is the one who made it on their own and parents continue the life-long practice of ignoring this one. Ironically, the middle child usually fairs better in life simply by virtue of the lack parental interference during the formative years. Left alone, these kids usually do a fine job of finding themselves, all by themselves.

Even if the parents do a passable job of making everything fair in the end, the kids will apply past resentments and excuses to explain why one of the others seemed to end up with more or why they didn't.

Does it seem I'm being to hard on Parents? Sure I am. Parents are only human after all and that's the problem. So here is some advice on curing the Parent Trap. Parents need to make a serious attitude adjustment as soon as each kid turns 25. So on each child's 25th birthday, hand them the following declaration of independence:

"We did the best we could and now you are on your own. We are no longer responsible for your laundry, shortfalls on car payments, rent, groceries, loans or relationships. Go where you want; do what you want and send us a postcard. We love you enough to make sure you have every opportunity to prove us wrong and expect that you will do so with style and success. Good Luck!"

Don't be afraid that the kids won't be around to take care of you in your old age. You won't need them if you stick to the plan. All the money you worked so hard to make and save will be there to take care of you if you don't continue to dole it out to kids along the way. Treat all the kids fairly and equally. Don't leave more to one because they didn't achieve as much as the others. Don't leave more to another because they worked harder.

Good luck and enjoy your life.

Natural + Synthetic = Natural?

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Fri, 13 Feb 2009 15:35:00 +0000

Is a 'Natural' product laced with synthetic ingredients still 'Natural'? We don't think so. Is soap marketed as Natural really natural if it includes ingredients like Sodium Stearate, Sorbitol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLS) or Ceytl Alcohol? We don't think so.

Here a few definitions of ingredients found in products marketed as Natural:

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), is a detergent and surfactant found in many personal care products (soaps, shampoos, toothpaste etc.). It is an inexpensive and very effective foaming agent made by mixing sulfuric acid, monododecyl ester, and sodium salt

SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE is prepared by esterification of sulfuric acid with dodecanol (lauryl alcohol, C12H25OH), followed by neutralization with sodium carbonate.[1] It is used in both industrially produced and home-made cosmetics.

TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE is used as a water softener in soaps to prevent soap scums and bathtub rings by locking up the calcium and magnesium in the water.
Compounds with similar functions are sodium carbonate, sodium edta, sodium citrate, phosphoric acid, and tetrasodium pyrophosphate.

CEYTL ALCOHOL is a nonionic surfactant used as a hair coating in shampoos and conditioners.
It is used as a water based lubricant for fasteners such as nuts and bolts.
Cetyl alcohol is used as an emollient (skin softener), emulsifier, and thickener in creams and lotions.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL and butylene glycol are often used as humectants (moisturizers) as they are hygroscopic (they draw moisture from the air).
Propylene glycol is what is used in artificial smoke or fog machines. It is also used as a preservative.

The point is floating some natural olive oil or coconut oil in a base of the synthetics listed above don't for a natural product make.

So look at the label. Latin names are usually listed for all botanical and natural ingredients but they will look completely different than chemical names of manufactured ingredients.

We think Natural means simple and real. Adding a little natural oil to a synthetic base shouldn't be marketed as natural because it's not. That is simple and real.

Second Hand isn't Necessarily Second Rate

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Sat, 13 Dec 2008 19:10:00 +0000

Have you noticed the condition of the economy has everything to do with our urgent desire to re-define our frugal ways? It seems we are in the midst of such a revival. I've noticed an increased number of blogs, articles and tips outlining ways to save money on those things we must have, and ways to recycle what we already have.

So I'm going to add my two cents from personal experience! I was raised in a very frugal household. Which is not be be confused with 'cheap'. Cheap simply wasn't done in our home because cheap was a waste of money. 'Buy well the first time and take care of it', that was our motto. Sometimes that meant buying something secondhand because it was a better value for the money and expectation of use. Finding vintage glass and useful dinnerware are always a bonus. A terrific way to add color to the table or kitchen display. But it makes the most sense if you plan to actually use the finds you bring home!

I think we are familiar with second hand clothing shops like Goodwill, Salvation Army and the scores of consignments shops. Now some people stalk these secondhand shops looking for that treasure someone else threw out which is worth its weight in gold. I stalk them as the first line of shopping for clothes. I used to find great clothes for my son when he was young. When kids are at the stage of growth where they outgrow things before they've worn them out...secondhand is the only way to go in my book. Vintage linens are another find at most Thrift shops. Cleanouts of older relatives' homes yield wonderful kitchen towels that simply get passed along to donation centers.

I recently found a brand new designer white cotton dress shirt with the tags intact for $6, well below the retail price and just my size. I found two sets of Laura Ashley cotton window curtains complete with tiebacks and fully lined for $10. Now I do a lot of sewing with cotton and there is enough excellent quality yardage in those curtains to make a dozen pillow cases, cushions, tote bags with enough left over the make some sachets, wrist cuffs and add several squares to my recycled quilt. Vintage napkins are a common find, however, finding napkins in good condition is not so easy. Don't be quick to pass up stained cotton and linen. Older cotton and linen fabrics were better made of longer fiber threads and are perfect as lining inside a potholder or sachet. As long as the fabric is washed and free of odors, who cares if the stains are hidden from view.

Beautiful embroidered linens are a marvel of talent and color. Even if the pieces has some staining, the bits of the embroidery can easily be cut away and used to fashion a sented sachet or embellish a pillow. The frugal minded used pieces like this to cover holes in the center of doilies.

But remember, great buys are only great if you saved money on something you were going to buy anyway. It has to fit, it has to be useful and it has to be reasonable. Don't waste money on something you'll have to fix because you'll never get around to it.

Scent of the Holidays

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 16:05:00 +0000

It's winter and the holiday season which smells like pine, cinnamon, cloves and oranges. Myrrh and Frankincense are in there somewhere along with peppermint candy canes and apple pies. So how do you spread the scent without spending a ton of money on candles?

Pull the vanilla extract from the cupboard and put a few drops on the light bulb in the living room, bedroom and family room. The heat from the bulb will disperse the scent beautifully. I use orange extract and a couple others too.

A few drops in a pot of simmering water on the stove will accomplish the same wonderful scent drifting through the house as well as add humidity to the air. Gather a few pine branches from the local tree lot or reserve the lower branches you cut from the tree you brought home and break them into little pieces. Add them to the simmering water for the fresh scent of pine.

You can use cinnamon sticks, allspice, whole cloves and other spices you will find in the cupboard. Citrus peel holds the aromatic essential and placing the peel (cut off most of the white pith) in simmering water releases the essential oil into to air.

If you would prefer to use essential oils (pure, not the synthetic versions) it's simple to add drops to simmering water, light bulbs and to the melted wax of an unscented candle, (just don't put the oil right on the flame!)

So save your money and don't buy those overpowering nasty synthetic fragrance candles! Gently scent your home with the ingredients you already have in the cupboards.

Top 9 Reasons to Attend a Craft Show

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Fri, 14 Mar 2008 14:54:00 +0000

Spring is coming. Farmers' markets are opening soon and County Fairs will soon be putting up the tents. Between now and Christmas, it will be easy to find lists of open craft shows and festivals every week.

SO! This is the perfect time to lay out the best reasons why anyone would want to go to a craft show....

1. Free Entertainment. Walking around on a nice day beats sitting in a quiet park enjoying a good read.

2. Free Lunch. Usually there are several food vendors offering samples. Feel free to eat up! Don't be concerned with the signs that say 'one per person', and, 'no double dipping'. We all know the vendor has included the cost of the samples in the retail price of the item. You could buy it...but you don't need to buy it now because you are full.

3. Free Babysitting. Bring all of your children and send them down the aisle ahead of you. They gain important product info from all the merchandise by handling, ripping, throwing and hugging every single thing that strikes their fancy. You, the parent will know just which vendors are tolerant, angry or preparing an invoice to hand you when and if you catch up with the kids. It's relaxing to know the kids are annoying someone else for a change.

4. Free Guest Lectures. You are at liberty to expound on the any vendor's technique, comparing it nostagically with all the identical things your grandmother, sister, neighbor or you, yourself have made just exactly like the vendor....only different.

5. Price Comparison Skills. This is where you get to instruct the vendor about the pricing you have seen, or paid at Walmart for the 'same thing'.

6. Free Research. Bring your notebook so you're ready to write down all the answers to your questions like 'where do you buy your supplies?', 'how much did that cost to make?', 'do you make money?', and 'where can I learn to do this so I can make money too?'.

7. Take advantage of the backgound noise to continue an intimate conversation with your friend regarding your latest medical procedure while you absentmindedly flutter through all the items on a vendor's table; constructively blocking access for others who really are interested in buying something.

8. Samples! We already mentioned the food so now I'm referring to those vendors who put out samples of their products, hoping you'll like them so much, you may just buy something in the future. You can gather a lot of samples and put them in a basket to give as a birthday gift...now you don't have to buy anything! So ignore the signs that say 'one per person' and just tell the vendor you'll also take a couple for your neighbor, sister, grandmother or daughter too.

9. Ideas! Cruise around for the latest trends and ideas for your own production! Be sure to take notes and refer to #6 above.

So there you have it! Nine very good reasons to attend a show and enjoy the day!

Clean the Home Naturally

noreply@blogger.com (CotterJames) — Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:02:00 +0000

There is no need to buy separate cleaning supplies for each purpose in your home. You can save lots of money and exposure to chemical solvents by trying these easy-to-make cleaning solutions. Most of the ingredients are already in your pantry and laundry room.

Borax: 20 Mule Team variety from the grocery store is a wonderful disinfectant and absorbs odors. It softens water so laundry detergent and soaps work more effectively. Try adding 1/2 cup the wash cycle before adding the clothes. If you have a front loading machine, dissolve the borax in a quart of hot water and pour it into the clothing before you close the door and start the cycle.

Rubbing Alcohol: The same rubbing alcohol you probably have in the bathroom is good for mixing with vinegar in equal parts with hot water to clean most surfaces and tile. Fill a spray bottle with one third each of vinegar and alcohol and finish with warm water.

Salt: Fine grain table salt is great as a gentle abrasive for cleaning the tub and sink. It's good for cleaning copper pots and burned on food in pans and glass casserole dishes. Salt cuts grease and is really affective when combined with natural liquid soap. Put a squirt of liquid soap on a damp cloth, sprinkle a liberal amount of salt onto the surface of the copper pot and rub gently with the soap cloth. Rinse with warm water and polish dry.

Baking Soda: We all know that keeping an open box of baking soda in the refrig helps to keep odors down. Did you know you can also dissolve it in hot water and use in a spray bottle to remove offensive odors from the air? Baking Soda can be added to the laundry wash cycle to help eliminate odors and soften the wash water. Use a half cup per load.

Vinegar: The mild acid in the vinegar is a great disinfectant, grease cutter and stops lime build up in the shower from hard water. Combined with baking soda it helps loosen baked-on food in the oven and in pots and pans; the foaming reaction generates oxygen and heat to help make clean up of burned food come up easily. Oven: Wet the burned food area liberally with vinegar and sprinkle baking soda on the area. It helps if the oven is still warm. Pots and Pans: Pour vinegar into the pot, add the baking soda and gently heat the pot to increase the action. Allow it to cool to room temp or overnight. The burned-on food should be easy to remove.

Keep a spray bottle of vinegar and borax in the shower. Spray the walls and around the tub a few times to keep soap scum and hard water deposits from building up.

Essential Oil: Many essential oils smell as good as they are effective in cutting grease and disinfect bathrooms and kitchens. Sweet Orange, Grapefruit, Rosemary, Cinnamon and Lavender essential oils are my favorite. Mere drops are needed and they even help to keep you happy while you do the tough work. I like to put 5 or 6 drops into the vacuum bag just before I turn it on. The scent is nice and helps clean the air. Add a few drops to spray bottles.

Ammonia, NON-Sud sing: The best cleaner for windows and glass.
NEVER COMBINE AMMONIA WITH CHLORINE BLEACH! EVER!
Use 2 tablespoons of ammonia to a quart of warm water in a spray bottle. You can also add 1 tablespoon of baking soda and a small squirt of liquid soap.

Washing Soda (calcium carbonate): Not to be confused with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), you'll find washing soda in the laundry aisle at the grocery store. A paste of washing soda and vinegar are especially affective for tough laundry dirt like grass stains and perspiration stains. Dissolve 1/4 c of washing soda and 1/4 c baking soda in a spray bottle of very hot water and keep it handy to spritz stains before they go into the hamper or before they go into the machine.

Corn Starch: Draws fresh oil and grease stains from clothing and carpets. Corn Starch mixed with Borax and Baking Soda can be worked into pet urine stains and food stains in carpets. Work the powder in with a cloth whetted with vinegar. The powder will fizz and work it in some more. Cover the area with aluminum foil and allow it dry for a day or so then vacuum it up completely. You may need to repeat the process a few times. Use equal parts borax, baking soda and corn starch, mix well and store in a container.

Peroxide: Good for oxidizing protein based stains on wood and color fast fabric. Apply peroxide directly to the stain, allow it to work for a few minutes then wipe up. Rinse the area with warm water and dry.

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ALL PURPOSE CLEANING POWDER

2 cups Baking Soda
2 cups Borax
2 cups Salt

Combine thoroughly and store in a closed container. Use a scoop in the toilet. Apply with a damp cloth for cleaning the sink and tub.

Use 1/4 cup to a gallon of hot water to wash the floor. Rinse with warm water and dry. Put the solution in a spray bottle for the shower walls. Add a little vinegar to the bottle for tough water deposits.

ALL PURPOSE SPRAY/LAUNDRY

1/4 cup washing soda
1/4 cup baking soda
Hot water to fill spray bottle, but leave a little room for
a good squirt of liquid soap

ALL PURPOSE CARPET CLEANER

Equal parts: Borax, Baking Soda, Cornstarch

mix thoroughly and store in air tight container.

Thanks for reading! Hopefully we can all do our part to keep excessive chemical cleaners out of the water supply!