Cactus Lover

Aphid at Cactus root

2012-01-02T20:52:00.001-08:00

On New Year holidays, I had free time to notice that my poor astro. baby cactus became flatter and smaller. When I removed them out of the pot, I got the answer: aphid stayed at the root. This awful insect suck the juices of root for food. I think it was because I rarely sprayed the chemical insecticide. I usually use the organic one which may not be strong enough.

You can see the small white thing in the soil. This is evil aphid.

After realizing the problem, I also washed and cleansed the cactus root in water. I tried to remove all soil and dust from the root softly. If do severely, the root might be damaged and the recovery will take longer time.

Here is the cactus after I scrubbed all soil. It becomes bare root now.

I'll leave them like this for several days and plant in the pot later. Hope you guys will have time to care your cactus, not ignoring them like I did.

ฺPlant bare root cactus

2011-12-25T23:58:00.000-08:00

If you buy the plant from online shops or nurseries, the sellers always pack and ship it with bare root or unpotted. Some people don’t like this way because the plant will be dormant and also need time to recover in the first 2-3 months. However, shipping with bare root has some advantages: less damage to the plant during transportation, especially big one. The shipment is cleaner: no soil, small rock or bug. You will be charged with lower freight due to less weight from soil and pot. Meanwhile, with new root, the cactus will grow faster and healthier after 6 months that you got it.

Here is the instruction what to do when you get bare root cactus & succulent.

Upon receiving your plants, open boxes as soon as possible. If any damaged roots are observed, trim with clean scissors before planting. Keep the new plants somewhat dry until new roots start forming. This can take a few days if hot or weeks or longer if dormant. During the shipping process, some plants may become de-acclimated from their normal full sun environment, and could burn if they are exposed too soon to extremely hot sun.

Before planting, allow it to dry 10 to 25 days after you receive your cutting. (Thick cuts and cool weather require a longer drying period). To dry the wounds, leave the cutting in a shady, warm exposure, not direct sun.

Plant it in DRY cactus potting soil and pot about an inch wider than the diameter of your cactus.

Do not water for another 10 - 25 days. After the cutting develops a root system it is safe to start a light regular watering cycle. Always let the soil dry out completely between applications of water. It is more likely that a cutting will be killed by over watering than under watering.

The bare root shipping is applied not only to cactus & succulent but also to other plants such as rose, orchid, nepenthe and etc. But the ways how to deal with each one after receiving it are different. So study the plant’s habit and ask for advice from your seller.

Source: www.cactusstore.com,

Watering while you're away or on vacation (2)

2011-11-02T22:03:00.000-07:00

Here are another easy DIY tips which explain by simple picture.

source: http://thesecretyumiverse.wonderhowto.com/blog/6-diy-tips-for-watering-your-houseplants-while-away-vacation-0130874/

Watering while away or on vacation (1)

2011-11-02T22:00:00.000-07:00

Watering plants is the daily important task for gardeners but who will do it while you’re away or on vacation??? Here are some helpful ways to solve the problem:

- Ideal way is to have a friend, neighbor, or family member come to the house and water. There are some drawbacks to this idea and you must weigh them carefully before entrusting this chore to someone else.

- Enclose plants in large transparent or clear plastic bags. Place the plant inside the bag and then close the top tightly with lightweight twine or ribbon. If the top flops and bends the plant, put a tall stick in the pot to hold up the bag. This way will work for 2 weeks vacation.

It's important not to water just before enclosing the plant. If you do, so much water will condense inside the bag that the plant surface becomes too moist.

- The simplest method for outdoor pots and hanging baskets is to move all of them into your dark, cool garage, bathroom or place. (Do this BEFORE watering them; they’ll be lighter and easier to move.) The temperature and will remain constant and evaporation will slow. Always use drip pans under the containers to retain water. For ten days, they should be fine.

- fill a washtub with gravel, fill the tub with water just to the level of the gravel, and set a plant on top of the gravel. The humidity from the water will prevent it from drying out. Another method is to set bricks in a bathtub, fill the tub with water to the level of the bricks, and set plants on the bricks.

- Move all your containers to a shady, protected area. Place drip pans under each and water well. Group together those that need less water and place in the most protected spot; then group the thirsty ones together and place them close to the others. Unless a heat wave comes while you’re gone, they should all be fine. If you will be away longer, then ask a trusted individual to come in and give any dry pots a drink.

- Double potting smaller containers also helps insulate the soil during the hottest weather. Place the container inside a larger one, then fill the space with soil or fine mulch. (This is beneficial whether you're away or at home.)

- Adding a layer of mulch to the surface of each pot helps cut down on evaporation.

- Make your own self-waterer:

1. Cut the bottom out of a plastic beverage container.

2. Remove lid and cover the opening with a small piece of gauze, secured with a rubber band around the neck of the bottle. (This keeps the soil from forming a plug in the opening.)

3. Push neck of bottle into the soil; do this near the edge so the bottle can rest against the pot.

4. Fill the bottle with water the day before you leave; then on the day you leave, top up with water again.

- Use water Delivery Devices or Gels, or time-release water products. Several products are available which utilize all-natural, biodegradable ingredients to keep soil moist. The gel-form water gradually releases the moisture when it comes into contact with the soil.

Source: http://forums2.gardenweb.com, http://davesgarden.com

Tough Flood in Thailand and Cactus Farm

2011-10-12T20:41:00.000-07:00

Now, Thailand has the worst flood in the decade. These floods started in June really and started to move south and have really caused huge damage the whole way down.

“They've affected hundreds and hundreds of villages and towns, they've wiped out 2.5 million acres of farmland. This is a very, very serious disaster." said Matthew Cochrane, spokesperson for the International Red Cross in Bangkok.

Over half a million square kilometers -- an area the size of Spain -- are affected by the floods in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, according to CNN meteorologist Jenny Harrison.

Beyond many of houses, hospital, factories and farmland affected by these huge water, the cactus & succulent farms nears Bangkok were flooded already. Unfortunately, the valuable cactus & succulent were gone with water without any help as the flood came very quickly and strongly.

The water was higher than 2-3 meters on the next day. Here are the sample of some cactus farms. To every people affected by this disaster, don't give up !

If you'd like to donate online : http://english.redcross.or.th/home

credit: pictures from http://cactusstation.pantown.com/

Graptoveria Succulent

2011-09-21T22:09:00.000-07:00

Genus: X Graptoveria (grap-toh-VER-ree-uh)

The name Graptoveria is a combination of Echeveria and Graptopetalum. The 'x' before the name signifies this hybridization. Due to this mixed parentage they form a diverse genus, but most are low growing, cultivated for their beautiful shapes and colors.

Graptoveria Debbie

X Graptoverias, are beautiful and easy to grow of all the Echeveria-like succulents in cultivation. Generally, they are hardier than Echeverias and certainly fast growing and easy to start from cuttings (leaf or stem)

The common species of Graptoveria which can be found and sold normally are

- Graptoveria Fred Ives

- Graptoveria Debbie (thick and pink purple leaves)

- Graptoveria Opalina, a large, fat-leaved plant with pale colored leaves that vary in colors

- Graptoveria Silver Star. You can get it the succulent nursery normally and it’s not simple to grow it because it can rot easily and doesn't tolerate a lot of direct sunlight

- Graptoveria amethorum, with short, fat leaves

Sun Exposure:

Caring for Graptoverias is similar to that of Echeveria and Graptopetalum. Bright light or shaded areas are best. Take care when placing outside as scarring can develop quickly even in partial sunlight. Most plants can be brought into the sun if done very gradually

Propagation Methods:

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) With leaf cuttings, you can cut a leaf and leave it on top of pot. Water it every 2-3 weeks and later the new plant will grow up.

Bloom Time: Late Spring/Early Summer

Watering:

Graptoveria Silver Star

Once a week for small port and twice for bigger pot. The Graptoveria are drought-tolerant but like water when it's warm Only for some types of Graptoveria (like Superbum, Hakuhou 3) you may use the watering can with small tip and pour water at the soil. That can avoid water being or holding on its leaves.

Or if there is water between the leaves, they will use syringe to suck water out of. Then Graptoveria will have perfect and healthy leaves.

Fertilizer:

Once a month. You can apply the orchid fertilizer with the succulent.

Pest:

If you find the bit leaves, there should be a worm around there. You may use the pesticide when you find aphid on succulent. Meanwhile, you should collect and throw the dry or dead leaves as they will be place of pest and bad fungus.

Source: www. http://davesgarden.com, http://sites.google.com/site/succulentcity/home

Lithop & Silver Torch Cactus as one of 12 bizarre real plants that look like sci-fi alien monsters

2011-08-26T09:25:00.000-07:00

I've read the website about the weird plants that look like monsters. Lithop and Silver Torch Cactus are one of them even though I think Lithop is really a cute succulent (which is not easy to grow.)

In the article, you will find more plants which really look horrible and like monsters or alien.

Link : http://blastr.com/2011/08/12-bizarre-real-life-plan.php

Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus - living rocks

2011-08-11T01:50:00.000-07:00

Scientific name: Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus

Origin: Mexico (Coahuila to Queretaro)

Habitat and Ecology: Commonly called "living rocks," they are widely distributed as a large number of small, isolated populations, generally on limestone derived gypsum silt plains and on hills. The area where they grow must be quite wet during the rainy season (Summer). These plants are extremely hidden as they blend in well with the terrain around them resembling dried mud.

When they are found, it is usually due to their pinkish flowers. In times of severe drought the whole above-ground portion of these plants can shrink and be covered by mould, but the taproot remains alive.

Although they can form clumps, often only a small disc of tubercles can be seen flat at the soil surface, however these plants grow a large tap root below the surface of the compost.

Root: Each plant has a large turnip-like taproot, which lies below the soil surface and serves for water storage.

Cultivation: The plants need deep pots with loose mineral soil with a well-drained stuff. They need a good amount of light, a place near the roof of the greenhouse helps drying the pot after watering.

Watering and adding fertilizer can be done weekly during summertime, if the weather is sunny enough. Kept this way, plants will show a healthy, although slow growth. They are frost hardy to -10°C.

Propagation: By seeds, remembering that seedlings dislike strong light and dry conditions. It will be great if the seeding pot can be repotted frequently.

Eventually, when they become mature, they attain a maximum size of 5 to 9 cm. But plants are often grafted to accelerate growth as they would generally slowly grow, but the grafted plants are typical rather tall growing or become multi-heads plant, compared with plants on their own roots that are usually very flat to the ground.

Flowers: A. kotschoubeyanus have a woolly crown, from which emerge bright pink-violet flowers up to 2.5-5 cm, 2 times wider than long when fully expanded. Flowers last for 3 to 4 days.

Blooming time: from mid-August onwards, and is easy to set seed on, it produces some interesting hybrids with other Ariocarpus species

Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus is a variable species:

· Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus forma mostruosa

· Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus forma prolifera

· Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus var. albiflorus

· Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus var. elephantidens (which are larger, highly textured, triangulate tubercles, and a deep purple flower with little or no white content)

· Ariocarpus kotschoueyanus var. macdowellii

· Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus var. sladovski differs from the other red flowering A. kotschoubeyanus (for having a smoother and shiny epidermis)

Source: http://www.cactus-art.biz

Care to Adenium – Desert Rose

2011-07-14T03:08:00.000-07:00

A native of East Africa, the desert rose will grow from 6 ½ to 10 feet in the wild. It has fleshy leaves and beautiful 2-inch open-trumpet shaped flowers in shades from red to light pink.

Desert Rose is excellent in pots especially for people who "kill everything" because Adenium lives with little care and can take a good deal of neglect. Besides, the coolest Desert Rose plants are hybrids (many dozens of them) produced in China, Taiwan and Thailand, and some in India.

Watering: Needs little water during winter, especially when kept cool. Increase water during growing and blooming periods. If left without added water and no rain for a long time or after a cold night, your desert rose can lose most or all of its leaves. Never fear, they will re-grow after watering or after warm weather returns.

Soils: Good drainage is essential in any soil mix, yet the soil mix also must have moisture retention properties, along with adequate nutrients. Use a mixture of half potting soil and half perlite, which will hold some moisture but still drain nicely. If you live in a warmer climate where you can plant outdoors, you can use gravel instead of Perlite.

Repotting: Root prune and repot ever year or two, after the winter rest period, using a good draining soil mix such as described above. Peat can also be added to the mixture. Plant can tolerate being root-bound (tight in the pot.)

Pruning: Usually pruning is done to reduce overall plant size, or to selectively remove branches to 'sculpt' a more-perfect plant.

Adenium flower

Do heavy pruning around March to shape the plant. Any new shoots can be pruned off at any time if you don't want them. Wear gloves and don't touch your face if you get any sap on you while pruning, as the sap is toxic. Don't let children or animals play with or around these plants either. Wash sap off with soap immediately.

Fertilizer: Feed Adenium obesum with a general houseplant fertilizer half-strength about once or twice a month during the warm months. Blooming fertilizer may help encourage blooming during the growing season. Along with reducing watering to increase cold tolerance, fertilization should be ended in late August or early September. Availability of nutrients (especially nitrogen) encourages the plants to remain active and produce new growth.

Light: Adenium needs lots of light and fresh air. Keep in a bright location in winter. In summer plant can be moved outside and can tolerate full sun but partial or filtered sun is fine. Plant will bloom better if getting more full sun and regular water.

Temperature: Never below 40 degrees; however, in the winter, keeping it cool (between 40 and 61 degrees) gives the plant a needed rest.

Pest and Diseases: The common enemies of Desert Rose are aphids, caterpillars, sometimes scale insects and fungus. Bugs are pretty easy to handle if you observe and inspect your Desert Rose often ...you'll see the pests and can take action. Sometimes, the leaves are eaten by small worm. If the trouble is not serious, just remove the worm out of the plant.

Source: www.spicewoodspines.com, http://mgonline.com, www.ehow.com, www.tucsoncactus.org

What to do when cactus is rotting???

2011-07-03T21:40:00.000-07:00

The before picture.
when my mammillaria was still healthy in the big pot

Thailand is in the rain season now and some cacti in my garden were also rotten. At this time, it happened with my favorite mammillaria which became rotten and I just noted it recently. So I think it’s important to fight with rotting seriously although before that, I led the plant rot without do anything. Here is the way to do that and hope it’ll be helpful when you have same trouble like me.

How do we know or notice that the cactus is rotting?

The brown base of can mean that the plant is aging (become woody) or rotting. To tell the difference, touch the base and see if it is hard or flabby/soft. Hard means everything is OK. But, it’s soft, it means that plant is rotting and it must be treated with care.

Here is after picture. It was so soft and I had to cut some rotten part out and dried the rest for 3-4 days together with the rotting aloe

Can I still save the rotting cactus?

The second way to save a rotting cactus is to simply cut of its top. Using a sharp knife cut off the top of the plant. After that, let’s it dry for a 2-7 days. Once dry, set about 1/2 the plant into potting mix/perlite or cactus mix/perlite.

Do not water too much. Just enough to make the soil to become a little humid. Over watering at this point could cause rot again. With luck and the right conditions it will start to root. Once it develops its own roots, the watering can be increased. Establishing the new roots may take several days or weeks depending on the condition of plant and care.

I put them on top of pot with 100% perlite

After several days with humid from rain, the new root came out finally!

Another option is to take a cutting or two for grafting which need skill & experience to do that.

What if my cactus is rotting from the top? What shall I do?

If a cactus is rotting from the top you need to act immediately before more of the cactus rots. Just like as if it is rotting from the base, carefully cut off the top of the cactus that is rotting. Dispose of the cactus top.

As for the bottom, clean it with a spray to make sure it does not catch the top's disease. Change the soil unless it looks as if the cactus can't take a repot. The remaining cactus should now be healthy. After a few weeks of extra care, start caring for it as for a normal cactus. It will not grow a new top or increase in height but it will grow branches which will grow.

Source: http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca, http://www.alexandgregory.com/

Free seeds of Gymnocalycium cacti to get

2011-06-26T21:17:00.000-07:00

Recently, my Gymnocalycium cacti flowered and gave me some seeds. I want to give them for free because they are too many for me and it'll be a good practice to grow normal cactus from seed. Then you'll know to do it with another cactus which may need more advance experience.

In the past, my friend ever gave the free seeds, then I learnt how to plant cactus from seed and now I want to do it to other people, too. Here is the picture of mother Gymnocalycium.

But you may need to pay $2 for shipping. (Please don't forget that I live in Thailand. If you stay here, I'll send you for free!) So if you'd like to get those seeds, please send money $2 via Paypal. Here is my account : thai_create@hotmail.com. There are limited amount: 3 sets (about 20-30 seeds/set)

Cactus vs Scale

2011-06-19T19:44:00.000-07:00

Today topic is about the scale, one of common pest for cactus as the blog reader has asked me about how to heal the cactus when scale attacks. Hope it'll be helpful for you guys.

Scale is pinhead-size insects that present themselves as raised tan/brown spots. It is actually hard shell coverings that protect the insect or eggs underneath. Scales reproduce like rabbits, prefer columnar and rock cacti, and dine on plant juices. Infected plants appear yellow and weakened. Left untreated, scale can cause bud and shoot drop. Scale are treated similar to mealy bugs.

Life cycle

Scale and mealy bugs are related insects, and since their life cycles closely parallel each other. In a general scale life cycle, eggs are produced beneath the female shell and hatch into tiny crawlers which are invisible to the unaided eye. Crawlers are not covered by a hard shell and they migrate to newly expanded foliage, finally settling near leaf veins on the underside of leaves or stems. It is this crawler stage, which is practically impossible to detect on cuttings or other propagation material that is responsible for spreading the infestation.

Outbreaks of scale can be triggered by plants being under stress (overwatering/underwatering), too much new growth resulting from an overabundance of nutrients (overfertilizing), overcrowding (unavoidable in some collections) and other conditions specific to the infestation. These other conditions can include injudicious spraying that kills the predators but leaves the scale eggs alive, introduction of a new, more favorable host plant, etc.

scale on rose branch

How to rid scale?

Many remedies are available for control depending on how much the scale outbreak.

1. At the beginning, you may choose organic controls including alcohol spray (isopropyl alcohol, straight or diluted), soapy emulsion (can be mixed w/alcohol), horticultural oil (read the directions, taking the plant out of the sun is a must) and pyrethrum spray.
Soapy water/alcohol should be reapplied every 2-3 days for 2 weeks. This is because little residual action can be expected, and newly hatched insects are occurring.

Alcohol in large quantities in the root zone is generally to be avoided since it can dehydrate some tissues. Soapy water/alcohol mix should not be allowed to dry in the root zone since damage can occur. If it is used, after a short period it can be flushed by pouring clean water through the root zone.

2. The most common and easy choice to remove scale is Chemical spray with proven results include Sevin and malathion. DO NOT use sprays containing malathion on the Crassulaceae family of plants. These plants include the common Jade plants. Some species in these genera are very sensitive to Malathion, and damage or death may result. For your safe health, follow the pesticide instruction strictly when you use Malathion.

3. Sometimes, spraying contact pesticides on scale is not effective since their protective hard shell coverings shed water like a well-made roof and the chemical ends up killing the natural predators (lacewings and their larvae that generally keep the scale under control in garden).
Systemic pesticides can work but we should get rid of the alive scales, too. They can't move, so once they are detached from the plant they will die. So you should scrape off the cactus scale by washing the plant with a weak detergent solution or by mechanically removing insects with a toothpick. Then spray Malathion to control major infestations weekly. When fighting scale, be sure to cover the soil, otherwise, these pests will just drop off and then get right back on the plant.

Information & Photo Source: http://www.cactusmuseum.com/, http://www.oldandsold.com, http://bugyou.blogspot.com/

Haworthia koelmaniorum

2011-06-02T21:05:00.000-07:00

Family: Aloaceae
Genus: Haworthia

Species: koelmaniorum

Synonym: Haworthia koelmaniorum var. koelmaniorum, Haworthia limifolia var. koelmaniorum

Origin: South Africa (Mpumalanga: Pretoria area)

Hardiness:
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)

Sun Exposure: Light Shade to shade (Its leaves can be burn if the sunlight is too severe.)

Growth Habits: Stemless rosette, very slowly clumping, 2 to 2.8 inches in diameter (5-7 cm); 14 to 20 leaves.

Watering Needs: regular water (every 3-4 days/time)
Bloom Color: White/Near White
Bloom Time: Mid-late Summer, Early Fall
Foliage:
Grown for foliage
Evergreen
Blue-Green
Burgundy
Succulent
Leathery-Textured

Propagation Methods: By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets) or leaf cuttings
From seed; direct sow after last frost, From seed; germinate in vitro in gelatin, agar or other medium.
Other details:

· This plant is suitable for growing indoors like normal harworthia.

· Koelmaniorum grows slowly and can be rotten easily, too. The plant is not cheap so its soil should be light and take care of it carefully. You may mix the cactus soil and pumice in small size with the ratio 1:2. I've been told that it worked.

· Although Haworthia koelmaniorum naturally occurs in the summer rainfall area, the plants seem to have no problem when cultivated under similar conditions as their winter-growing relatives.

Source: www.davesgarden.com, www.desert-tropicals.com/, http://desert-plants.blogspot.com

Making your own compost at backyard

2011-05-18T09:57:00.000-07:00

What you do usually do with the dead leaves and food waste? Composting is also a good answer to recycle leaves and other yard waste. Instead of burning or hauling away leaves, you can compost them and return the nutrients to your garden to save money with your own compost!

What is compost?

To gardeners, compost is considered "black gold" because of its many benefits in the garden. Adding compost to clay soils makes them easier to work and plant. In sandy soils, the addition of compost improves the water holding capacity of the soil. By adding organic matter to the soil, compost can help improve plant growth and health.

The composting process

The composting process involves four main components: organic matter, moisture, oxygen, and bacteria.

Organic matter includes plant materials and some animal manures. All composting require three basic ingredients:

Browns organic materials such as dead leaves, branches , twigs. The brown materials provide carbon for your compost
Greens organic materials such as grass clippings, vegetable waste, fruit scraps, and coffee grounds. The green materials provide nitrogen.
Water provides moisture to help breakdown the organic matter

The best ratio is 1 part green to 1 part brown material. Shredding, chopping or mowing these materials

Select a dry, shady spot near a water source for your compost pile or bin.
Add your brown and green materials as you collect them, making sure larger pieces are chopped or shredded. Smaller pieces will help speed the composting process by increasing the surface area.
Moisten dry materials as they are added.
Once your compost pile is established, mix green material into the pile and bury fruit and vegetable waste under 10 inches of compost material.
Optional: Cover top of compost with a tarp to keep it moist.
When the material at the bottom is dark and rich in color, your compost is ready to use (this is usually occurs in two months to two years).

Tip:

If the pile is too dry, materials will decompose very slowly. Add water during dry periods or when adding large amounts of brown organic material.
If the pile is too wet, turn the pile and mix the materials. Another option is to add dry, brown organic materials.
Turning the pile is important for complete composting and for controlling odor.

Wait at least two weeks before turning the pile, to allow the center of the pile to "heat up" and decompose. Once the pile has cooled in the center, decomposition of the materials has taken place. Frequent turning will help speed the composting process.

my compost bag

You may also add layers of soil or finished compost to supply more bacteria and speed the composting process. Commercial starters are available but should not be necessary for compost.

(I live in the city and have limited garden space. Therefore, I make my own compost in the soil/cement large bag (which water can go through) and shake it every 2 weeks. About 2-3 months, the compost will be ready J. You can adapt another bag or sack to make the compost.)

How long does it take?

The amount of time needed to produce compost depends on several factors, including the size of the compost pile, the types of materials, the surface area of the materials, and the number of times the pile is turned.

The number of times the pile is turned influences composting speed. By turning more frequently (about every 2-4 weeks), you will produce compost more quickly. Waiting at least two weeks allows the center of the pile to heat up and promotes maximum bacterial activity. The average composter turns the pile every 4-5 weeks.

With frequent turning, compost can be ready in about 3 months, depending on the time of year.

In winter, the activity of the bacteria slows, and it is recommended that you stop turning the pile after November to keep heat from escaping the pileís center. In summer, warm temperatures encourage bacterial activity and the composting process is quicker

Tips:

If the pile has more brown organic materials, it may take longer to compost. You can speed up the process by adding more green materials or a fertilizer with nitrogen (use one cup per 25 square feet).

·When turning the compost pile, make sure that materials in the center are brought to the outsides, and that materials from the outside edges are brought to the center.

Using compost in the yard

Incorporate compost into your garden as you prepare the soil in the spring. Cover the area with 3-4 inches of soil and till it in to at least the upper 6 inches of soil.

Or you also use compost as mulch around flower beds, vegetable gardens, or around trees or shrubs in landscape beds. Apply a 3 inch layer. Be careful not to apply mulch close to the main stem or trunk of the plant.

Source: http://urbanext.illinois.edu, http://www.epa.gov/

Notocactus/ Parodia Cacti

2011-05-05T20:59:00.000-07:00

Notocactus/ Parodia Cacti

Most of favorite cactus have the origin in Africa, middle USA and Mexico but today, I’d like to introduce the cactus from South Africa: Parodia magnifica

Like other cacti, species of Parodia magnifica have developed means of reducing water loss. They have a thick waterproof cuticle that keeps water in and tries to keep pests and diseases out. Cacti have also recessed their stomata in deep pits over their bodies.

Scientific name: Parodia magnifica

Synonyms: Eriocactus magnificus, Notocactus magnificus

Origin: Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentina

Habitat: The habitat where this plant come from can become very cold during the winter nights, often it will fall to just above freezing without harming the plants as it is also very dry.

Soil: Parodia/ Notocactus are found mostly on "islands" of low rocky hills found in grasslands and forests, growing between cracks in the rocks or in the shade of larger growing plants. The soil there is well drained and has a fairly high organic content, derived from the decomposition of other plants.

So the proper soil for Parodia/Notocactus should be well-drained and have high organic content.

Temperature: The habitat where Parodia/Notocactus come from can become very cold during the winter nights; often it will fall to just above freezing without harming the plants as it is also very dry. When growing at home it is best to avoid any frost as you may loose the plant but during the winter the temperature can be as low as 2C without any harm so long as the compost is very dry.

Watering: The plants in the cold country should be kept almost completely dry during the winter months, only water them to prevent the roots from completely drying out, once a month should be fine. From March onwards the plant will begin to grow and watering should be increased gradually until late May when the plant should be in full growth.

But I am in Thailand, warm location; I also water my cacti every 2-4 days upon the sun exposure and season.

Lighting: Grow most species of Notocactus in full sun during the summer and winter avoiding only the harshest summer sun.

During the summer it is best to keep the plants outside. Keeping the plants in full sun will make them look healthier and will result in stronger and more colorful spination. If kept too dark they may become overly lush and could be prone to rotting due to over watering, they will also be shy to produce flowers.

As the sunshine here (Thailand) is severe, especially in summer, my greenhouse also has the shading net to reduce the sunlight and protect the plants to be burn.

Natural ways to get rid of ants

2011-04-18T02:56:00.000-07:00

Ants, a small animal, prove to be beneficial to the gardener by feeding on destructive garden pests such as caterpillars, spiders and small insects. But, some species of ants like black garden ants live together with the aphids (for their honeydew). In such a case, ants are inviting a notorious pest in the garden. Here are several natural ways to get rid of the insects in your garden.

1. Try a vinegar spray.

Mix three parts vinegar with one part warm water, and spray around the perimeter of the garden. If you know where the ant hill is, you can spray the mound directly.

2. Sprinkle freshly ground black pepper in your garden around your plants.

Ants won't cross it, and it doesn’t cause any harm to you plants.

3. Ants hate any type of strong odor.

The pungent aromatic scent of mint leaves acts a natural pesticide for the ants. So, do not delay in planting mint in your garden so as to get rid of the troublesome ants. The permanent solution for garden ants is to grow and maintain mint plants throughout the year.

4. Shake out a line of baby powder around the garden.

For some reason, ants don't seem to like the smell, and won't go near any part of the garden that has a baby powder smell.

5. Find the ant hill, and pour corn meal on top of it.

Ants will eat the corn meal, but they can't digest it, so they will die. If you hate the idea of killing ants, put a jar of honey in a tree near your garden. The ants will relocate so they can be near the honey, and it will keep them.

6. Use Citrus Peelings

Collect citrus peelings (orange, lemon, etc.) and ground them by using adequate amount of water. Remove the liquid concoction and spray it over the ant mound. This method is an effective natural remedy for getting rid of carpenter ants and other garden ants.

I don’t recommend the ways with boil water and boric acid because the boil water is too cruel to ants. Imagine how you would feel if your body was burn by hot water. Meanwhile, boric acid is chemical, I also am unsure about its side affect to the soil, plant even or my health.

Another harmful part of cactus

2011-04-15T02:37:00.000-07:00

I got the interesting question about the poisonous cactus. After asking my friends who are the cacti great collector and searching the information., I found that beyond the sharp thorn, other harmful main part of cactus is sticky milk sap but not all cacti have the toxic sap. Just only some of them have such sap. Here is the list of cactus which has the harmful latex:

The desert rose (Adenium obesum) is a member of the dogbane family. Like many of its relatives, the desert rose can exude a milky acrid sap when the stems or leaves are broken. This sap has cardioactive ingredients that can be dangerous if taken internally. Ingestion can cause abdominal pain and vomiting.

Some of the euphorbias or spurge species yield a milky latex. This can cause dermatitis in susceptible individuals. Avoid getting this in your eyes or bare skin, particularly if you have open sores or wounds. All parts of the euphorbias could be potentially poisonous if consumed. If swallowed, this can cause lesions of the mouth. Ingestion of the juice can also act as a purgative. In addition, gastrointestinal symptoms can occur.

Pachypodium is another member of the dogbane family. These often have a caudex. Bearing resemblance to a columnar cactus, this has thorns up and down the length of the stems. These thorns are modified stipules. They can be injurious, so be careful. Like the other dogbane relatives, this plant yields a poisonous sap.

Agaves, including the century plant and maguey, contains an irritating latex or sap. This can cause dermatitis in susceptible individuals.

Crassula argentea

Christmas candle is also known as candelilla. This is a species of pedilanthus. It is related to the euphorbias or spurges. All parts of the plant have a toxic white sap. Avoid getting this on your skin. It can cause severe dermatitis in susceptible individuals. If taken internally, it can bring on various gastrointestinal symptoms. These include diarrhea, vomiting, abdominal cramping, and nausea.

The baby jade (Crassula argentea) also has a burning, irritating sap. This comes from the leaves and all other parts of the plant. This latex can cause dermatitis.

Meanwhile, many of the Opuntia cacti have glochids (small hair-like spines) that can hurt someone who is unaware. It can make skin irritation. (And really it’s difficult to get rid of the small spine from the skin. I had every that experience before.) The bunny-ear Opuntia is particularly deceptive because it looks so cute and touchable. But the spine of some Mammillaria is OK. Its spine is so soft like the teddy bear (Personally, I like to touch it when I feel upset.)

my favorite mammillaria

So when working with these plants, especially if your hands have wound, protect them and arms with heavy, long sleeved clothing and gardening gloves. If you are injured, seek medical attention. Watch the injured spot carefully for signs of infection.

Cactus vs Fungus

2011-03-31T21:38:00.000-07:00

Here are the fungus found normally in cactus.

1. Cactus Anthracnose (fungus – Colletotrichum (Gleosproium) spp): This disease affects several kinds of cacti, cereus, echinocactus, mammillaria, and particularly, opuntia (prickly pear). Infection results in a rather moist light brown rot that shows many light pink pustules on the surface. Spots are small at first, later enlarge, and become covered by the small spore-producing pustules.
Large areas may be affected, sometimes destroying entire plants. No satisfactory control is available, other than removing and destroying diseased cladodes as soon as noticed. In the greenhouse, soil from infected plants should be removed and benches disinfected. Spraying with a copper fungicide may help in checking this disease.

2. Scorch or Sunscald (fungus – Henersonia opuntiae): This disease is common and

serious on prickly pear cactus (opuntia). Spots at first are distinctly zoned, later enlarging until entire cladodes turn a reddish-brown and finally die. The center of the disease area is grayish-brown and cracked. Other fungi may be present in the diseased area. No practical control has been developed.

3. Cotton Root Rot (fungus – Phymatotrichum omnivorum): Several members of the

cactus family are susceptible to attack by the cotton root rot fungus. Infected plants die. When pulled from the soil the brown strands of the fungus can be found growing on the root surface. No control practice is available.

4. Scab (physiological): Particularly common on prickly pear cactus. Rusty colored, corky areas appear on the stems. Scab is thought to be a form of edema, resulting from over watering and poor ventilation. Increase light and decrease humidity for control.

What to do when cactus are infected?

Quarantine and remove infected plant material.
Repot and cut off the infected area if it’s not severe and it’s possible to cut. Cut behind the infection so that you can throw the fungus away entirely. If it’s severe, destroy affected plants and their pots.
Set the environment of your greenhouse or garden to be more appropriate for the cactus. The causes of fungus are sometimes poor ventilation, light or humidity.
Dust the both infected and healthy plant with Bordeaux mixture or another fungicide.

Preventing the fungus

1. Back the basic, pay attention and take care of your plants closely. Mostly, the infection can invade your garden when you don’t have time to check or care the cactus. (This case ever happened with me, too)

2. Get rid of the fungus/infection as soon as you find it. The earlier to figure the fungus, the easier to control it.

3. Giving more time to spray the fungicide (every one or two weeks), repot and fertilize the plants.

Every plant is same; cactus, succulent, orchid, rose or else. If you take care of it well, it will grow up greatly and make you proud.

If you have any comment or question, please feel free to contact me :)

When is the time to repot the cactus???

2011-03-14T20:38:00.000-07:00

Normally, we should repot the cactus at least once a year but if you want the cactus to grow faster, you may change its pot every 5-7 months upon the size and age of the plant.

However, somebody who is very lazy (like me) may repot when it’s really necessary. When is it??? You can notice the good time to change the cactus pot when

Hard top soil

Cactus size is too big for the pot
Cactus is growing slowly
The top soil is so hard

Root on top soil

Cactus root’s is on the surface of the pot because there is no more food/fertilizers at bottom of pot. (Sometimes, it’s true but I have an experience: one of my cacti grown on the surface. At that time, I changed its pot and its root was still on the surface again. I re-potted again and its root was still on the top of the pot. I asked my cactus advisor and she said that’s the habit of that cactus.)

my Pachypodium

However, you should know about the dormant period of each cactus & succulent. For example, my Pachypodium always leave its leaves and stop growing since October. It will have new leaves and grow up again at the beginning of rain season (about May). So I repot it before May. Dormant plants are weak and can't really defend themselves against infection. Meanwhile, any damage done to the roots during repotting will be dangerous to the plants.

Right Season to do it

Normally, I’d recommend before or at the beginning of the rain season because it’s not too dry or too wet. And the new pot can support the plant growth in the rainy but you should be careful about the infection and being rotten if you repot during the rain season. So please change the pot before the rain comes.

However, that’s the general suggestion. You should understand your plants well. There are some species that can tolerate every thing you’ve done with them, but others could not truly tolerate any stress. So please pay attention and time to observe your cactus.

Mammillaria herrerae Care

2011-02-21T20:48:00.000-08:00

Scientific name: Mammillaria herrerae

Origin: Queretaro, Mexico
Habitat: It grows mainly in open places between grasses and calcareous rocks, in association with other cactus species like Echinocactus grusonii, Ferocactus hystrix and Thelocactus leucanthus.

Description: It is small growing cactus that look like a little golf ball. It usually stays solitary, or occasionally clusters from the base.
Stems: Globose or slightly elongated as it ages, 2 - 3.5 cm in diameter and height. (In cultivation it can grow very slowly up to 8 cm tall). Without latex.

Flower: Diurnal, quite large for a Mammillaria, pale pink to red-violet, 20 - 25 mm long and very showy.
Blooming season (Europe): April to May, it starts flowering when it gets to be 5-7 years old, and reaches at least 3 cm in diameter.

Lighting: Requires maximum sun exposure to reach its full potential, and to achieve success in flowering

Cultivation: This plant isn't famous for being easy to cultivate, but in good conditions with excellent ventilation, it grows without difficulty. It is especially sensitive to overwatering. So careful watering and an open mineral potting soil are a must. Avoid the use of peat or other humus sources in the potting mixture.

Don't add limestone to the potting mix (which must be moderately acidic). It can be sensitive to frost (but if dry they are resistant to -5° C). A winter rest that allows the plant to shrivel (perhaps losing up to 25% of its summer height) will encourage flowering and long time survival. Be careful to encourage slow growth.

Propagation: Direct sow after last frost. (it usually doesn't produces offsets).

Make a self-watering container

2011-02-08T02:00:00.000-08:00

Have you ever got a problem who would water plants when you're away or had a holiday? Here, I've the video showing how to make a self-watering container simply.

source: Videojug

Haworthia fasciata

2011-01-24T19:56:00.000-08:00

Plant Family: Liliaceae

Plant Botanical Name : Haworthia fasciata

Common Name: Zebra haworthia

General Description

Comprising about 70 species of small, succulent, cold-tender perennials, this southern African genus contains many excellent subjects for containers or frost-free gardens. Most cultivated haworthias come from desert or semi-desert regions of South Africa that receive little or no summer rainfall.

Most Haworthia species form ground-hugging or short-stemmed rosettes of fleshy, somewhat triangular, firm- or soft-textured leaves. The leaves of several species (including H. cymbiformis) have a mosaic of translucent "windows" at their tips, which admit light to an interior layer of photosynthesizing cells. Warty silver-gray tubercules mark the leaves of some species (such as H. attenuata), giving them an almost reptilian appearance. Still others (H. arachnoidea, for example) produce spherical rosettes covered with a cobweb of fine white bristles. Among the most striking and sought-after haworthias are H. truncata and its allies, whose "sawed-off" leaves resemble miniature stone columns.

Many haworthias multiply rapidly into sizable clumps when grown in optimal conditions. Most have fleshy roots, but a few are tuberous-rooted.

Haworthias are not showy bloomers, producing small, pale, tubular flowers on tall, thin, wiry stems. Blooming season differs among species. Plants sometimes set seed, which if sown may result in hybrid seedlings. Many formerly supposed species of Haworthia are now known to be hybrids.

These succulents do best in porous soil and bright filtered light. Water sparingly in summer and winter, and more frequently in spring and fall. Haworthias take very well to container culture and are splendid in decorative pots. Drought and sun may cause reddening of the leaves. Plants are easily propagated by separation of rosettes.

Characteristics

AHS Heat Zone: 12 - 10
USDA Hardiness Zone: 10 - 15
Sunset Zone: 12, 13, 21, 22, 23, 24
Plant Type: Succulent
Sun Exposure: Full Sun, Partial Sun
Height: 1"-4" / 2.5cm - 10.2cm
Bloom Time: Early Spring, Spring, Late Spring, Early Summer, Summer, Late Summer, Early Fall, Fall
Native To: Southern Africa

Growing Conditions

Soil type: Loam, Sand
Tolerances: Drought
Water Requirements: Keep the soil barely moist and if you use rainwater, be careful as it could be acidic. Use warm water.
Fertilizer: Feed only twice a year, once in April and once in July with a water soluble fertilizer.

Tip &Advice: Be careful not to over-water. Put a layer of small gravel at the bottom of the pot and also one inch on the top of the soil to prevent stem rot. Repot this plant in the spring and use a shallow pot.

Peat moss: use and benefit

2010-12-28T01:35:00.000-08:00

What is peat moss?

Peat Moss, as used in gardening, is a fibrous, decomposed remains of these certain types of moss, which are found in very wet areas of the country. It is a highly prized natural plant food and can be used as a covering or mulch like substance for seeded areas.

Why should we use peat moss?

Peat moss has many benefits to plants and especially, it’s very helpful to seed the cactus & succulent.

- improve compost

- condition the soil : Peat moss is ideal for improving the texture of the soil, and when added to garden soil it will stop nutrient runoff from occurring by holding water and nutrients in soil.

- Adding peat moss to clay soils can help break down clay by aerating it and applying peat moss to sandy soils will help bind it and retain nutrients rather than leach them.

I was told by a cactus experts that he used the peat moss and pumice (volcanic rock) when he seed the cactus. That would increase the survival rate of the baby cactus. But the peat moss would be dry quickly so you should often water the cactus with peat moss.

By the way, coconut fibre can uses as a valid substitute for peat moss. It has many of the same qualities inherent in the moss yet is more environmentally friendly. Coconut fibre is sourced from the husk fibres of coconuts and has given some hope for normally what is seen as a waste product.

I cover the top of soil of the flower and the vegetable with the coconut fibre as it can keep moisture in the soil. But for the cactus & succulent, coconut fibre is not the good choice because coconut fibre holds water in the pot and that can cause the plants being rotten.

Where to find peat moss?

In local farm supply, outdoor or gardening section of most department stores.

Human urine as organic fertilizer

2010-12-08T01:45:00.000-08:00

Generally, urine is the liquid waste from our body but in the Asian agriculture, it’s common to use urine as a good source of nitrogen and other minerals and, providing it is used correctly, is completely safe. The research at University of Kuopio's Department of Environmental Sciences in Finland assumed that the nitrogen contents of human urine could be a good fertilizer for many other plants or crops.

The study said that the cabbage fertilized with urine was compared with similar plots of cabbage that either went unfertilized or where commercial fertilizer was used. At harvest, the cabbage enriched with the urine had several advantages: It was slightly larger, it grew to its maximum size more quickly, and, for most of the growth cycle, it suffered less bug damage than the commercially fertilized variety.

I tested to water with the mixed urine 2 times a week in the morning and now, my plants (such as vegetable, roses, orchid, cactus and etc.) grow well and quickly like they do in the rain season.

How to keep and use it

Keep it separate. The golden rule with urine use is to keep it separate from other bodily wastes. Urine is clean and needs to be kept that way. Pee in a bottle, or invest in a urine-separating toilet.
Dilute urine with water at 1: 10. The pure urine is too strong and salty to be used neat on plants.
Use it fresh. We all know that stale urine smells. That's ammonia, and it's made from nitrogen. The smellier your collected urine, the less nutritious it will be for your plants, as well as being unpleasant to apply.

Water at the roots. It's good practice when watering not too splash the leaves, but to water at the roots. This saves on evaporation, and dry leaves are much more resistant to disease.

Feed hungry plants. The plants that will benefit most from urine fertilizer are the ones with the highest nitrogen requirements. Try it on leafy vegetables like cabbages and cauliflowers, corn, or anything that needs a quick pick-me-up.

Other use.

Neat urine is too strong to be used directly on plants, but it can be used as a weedkiller; a few applications, especially if used on hot days, should finish off your weeds. It can also be used neat as a winter spray for fruit trees, to discourage fungal diseases.

Using urine is the real organic gardening: it is a relatively clean substance. You can save money, fossil fuels (used extensively in the production of chemical fertilizers) and water (no need to flush!).

Welwitschia mirabilis - one of "most bizarre plants on earth."

2010-10-21T00:30:00.000-07:00

Welwitschias are extraordinary plants and certainly rank among the top ten list of "most bizarre plants on earth."

Welwitschia is a monotypic genus of gymnosperm plant, composed solely of the very distinct Welwitschia mirabilis. The plant, which is considered a living fossil is named after the Austrian botanist Friedrich Welwitsch who discovered it in 1859. The geographic distribution of Welwitschia mirabilis is limited to the Namib desert within Namibia and Angola.

Welwitschia grows from a short, thick, woody trunk, with only two leaves that continuously grow from their base, and a long, thick taproot. After germination, the cotyledons grow to 25–35 mm in length, and are followed shortly afterward by the appearance of two permanent leaves.
These leaves are produced opposite of the cotyledons, and continue to grow throughout the entire life of the plant. They eventually grow to a length of 2–4 m and usually become split into several strap-shaped sections. The species is dioecious, with separate male and female plants. Fertilization, that is, the transfer of the pollen from the male to the female strobili, is carried out by insects that are attracted by "nectar" produced on both male and female strobili

Watering: The plant absorbs water through structures on its leaves, harvesting moisture originating from dew that forms during the night.

Light: Welwitschia mirabilis needs full sun but it should be under roof when it rains. So it will be great if Welwitschia mirabilis locates in the greenhouse.

Soil: normal soil for cactus and it should be well-drained. If its leave becomes yellow, it means that you water too little.

Propagation: Welwitschia mirabilis is propagated from seed. Fresh seed will germinate in 45-60 days at 85°F (30°C).