Davenport coastline looking south towards Monterey

It was a foggy morning when we set off from home for Bean Hollow Beach but the forecast said the sun would burn off the fog. We were slightly concerned that the Santa Cruz mountain range would be fog bound, which would have made the drive a little scary, but miraculously the fog disappeared as soon as we left the valley. In fact the drive over the mountains was wonderful with a perfect view of Monterey as we crested the summit.

(Click on the photos for larger versions)

Once again we must apologize for the lack of posts recently, due to bad weather over several weekends and an unfortunate accident. Both situations are much improved now I’m pleased to say.

Crossing over the tracks heading towards the ocean at Davenport, California

After our fabulous breakfast at Zachary’s in Santa Cruz, we drove north on Highway 1. We stopped in Davenport because Tom had read somewhere that there were the remains of old pier in Davenport. We parked right opposite the Whale City Bakery Bar & Grill and walked towards the ocean. We soon came to the edge and looked down on a railway track. There was a worn path on the other side of the tracks and all we had do was to find the way to it. At the end of the parking area near a clump of trees we found shale like rock which looked a bit like a staircase so we climbed down, crossed the tracks and picked up the path on the other side. Soon we were at the edge of a steep cliff with wonderful views over a sandy beach and we could see Monterey in the distance. The coastline was spectacular but saw no sign of a pier. Further down I spotted someone sitting on the edge of the cliff with his hound by his side so I went to ask him about the pier. The guy was obviously a local with his dreadlocks, ruddy face, full beard, woolly cap and holding a large cup of coffee in his hands. He readily told us where the remains of the pier were, which was around the point to the north. The path was easy to follow but we stayed away from the edge of the steep cliff. As we walked there was a lovely smell but at first I couldn’t work out where it came from. Then I saw a big swathe of white alyssom and the penny dropped.

Three Pelicans gliding up the coast at Davenport, California

We spied the remains of the pier easily. Only three concrete supports remain. As we didn’t know the history, it was the first thing I checked when I got home. A whaling captain called John Pope Davenport (the town was named after him) built the first pier in 1867 at the mouth of what is now known as the Muddy Water Creek. Lumber was brought down from the hills and shipped to Santa Cruz a little way down the coast. When the steamers could no longer get alongside the pier due to the mud which was also being brought down from the hills, an extension was built to the pier but this did not solve the problem. An even longer pier was built later but that one was destroyed in a storm. (This information came from Wikipedia).

While Tom took loads of photographs, I sat on a concrete block on top of the cliff and contemplated the view. Strings of pelicans skimmed the waves beneath me and out at sea a group of small fishing boats kept me fully absorbed. It was bliss. The sun was warm with no wind to speak of. While I sat there only one person, a surfer, walked by. It was very relaxing and peaceful.

An hour later we were back of the road again driving towards Half Moon Bay. Along the way many cars were parked and surfers were either getting changed into their wet suits, walking towards the ocean with their boards or out on the water waiting for the next big wave. A drive on Highway 1 on Big Sur to the south is always wonderful but this drive to the north is even better in our opinion with it’s many accessible sandy beaches and each of them unique.

Bean Hollow State Beach along the San Mateo coast

At 9:30 we arrived at Bean Hollow State Beach. I expected there to be a day charge to use the beach but I couldn’t see anywhere to pay. We walked to the sandy beach down a partly eroded path. Immediately the unusual honeycomb rock formations attracted our attention. I wandered off down the beach while Tom paused to take photos. There was so much to take in. Looking down at the sand I could see all kinds of tracks – birdlife, crabs and human – besides all the flotsam washed up on the beach like seaweed, shells and driftwood. By looking up I could take in the cliff face and then, looking out over the ocean I could see the waves breaking on the rocky outcrops. A family group with four small boys were having fun in a little lagoon. Several sandcastles attested to their other activities. I sat on a big driftwood log and even thought about taking my sweater off as it was so warm but all too soon Tom had caught up with me and it was time to explore the trail along the top of the beach.

A half hidden flight of wooden steps at the north end of the beach led to the top of the bluff. The trail is close enough to the highway to see and hear the traffic but the sound of the waves breaking blurred most of noise.

It was an interesting trail. I was surprised at the amount of color around in the plant life from both flowers and greenery. The ice plant, even though it is an invasive plant, has bright purple or yellow flowers. There were small information boards every so often which told me things I didn’t know like the fact that the Ohlone people collected olive shells here to make jewelry and the fact that the foam seen washed up on the beach is created by algae and is natural. In other words, it is not soapsuds. The trail is easy to negotiate though very narrow. Several small wooden bridges crossed the wetter places and the occasional flight of wooden steps made climbing the hills easier.

Strange rock erosion called Tafoni

About half way along the trail there is a convenient bench to sit on and I took advantage of it. Here I did take my sweater off. Sitting there gave me a chance to catch up with my writing. When I saw Tom appear in the distance I carried on with my walk. I spotted a small snake slithering across the path and through the plants and wanted to take a photo but it had disappeared before I was able to get my camera out of its case. Should be easy to identify when I get home because it had a bright yellow line along its spine. (It was a Santa Cruz Gartersnake but, as it was not very big, I’m guessing it was just a baby one).

I walked all the way to Pebble Beach where there was a small car park. It is also part of the Bean Hollow State Beach. Here was an interesting information board telling me that the honeycomb rock formations are called Tafoni which is caused by rock weathering and erosional processes. I tried calling Tom on my cell phone to tell him where I was but there was no network coverage so I turned around and walked back.

Ice plant flower. Stuff grows like a weed (is a weed) but at least the flower is pretty.

I caught up with Tom back at the bench and he told me all the interesting features he had been using with his camera. On the way back to the car we analyzed the remains of a large bird which had come to grief in a patch of ice plant. When I passed it earlier I thought it was the remains of a young sea gull but Tom deduced it was a pelican by the shape of its skull.

We stopped in Pescadero on the way home at Harley Goat Farm to buy some of my favorite honey and lavender cheese plus some feta cheese as well. Of course we had to sample lots of the other cheeses and some scrumptious boysenberry, blackberry and raspberry preserve. Since our last visit they have extended the shop and now on sale are some gorgeous wooden chopping boards imported from Wales, socks made with wool from angora goats imported from Yorkshire and garden tools made of copper and tin imported from Hungary.

We were home just after 2 o’clock and we both agreed that for the price of gas, a wonderful breakfast and some cheese, it had been a perfect day.

Zachary's Restaurant, Santa Cruz

Our visit to Zachary’s didn’t start too well due to GPS problems but all of that was soon forgotten when we eventually reached our destination. Zachary’s is on Pacific Avenue in the downtown area of Santa Cruz. From the outside it doesn’t look all that imposing but don’t be fooled by that.

Inside it is large and funky. Even at 7.30 in the morning it was pretty full. You are directed to go to the back and add your name to the waiting list. There is a little waiting area with an interesting collection of framed cartoons to keep people amused while they wait but we were there only for a few moments before we being shown to our seats. My first impression was that there was a lot of wood around: floor, panels and furniture, and it looked as though it had been around for a long, long time. For instance, there were grooves in the floorboards which had been made by my chair over the years. There were no booths but the seats along the walls were padded benches.

Perusing the menu, I spotted no oatmeal although they do an oatmeal and molasses bread which sounds interesting. In fact they bake their own bread on the premises so there was an good selection. Tom ordered the spicy Italian Scramble ($10.50) and I went for the fruit bowl ($4.75) with a plain yogurt on the side ($1.75). Tom drank coffee ($1.95) but I splurged out and had the hot chocolate ($1.85).

Time to look around at the interior decor. The main focus are the colorful photographs on the walls of the famous Santa Cruz boardwalk. There were a few other prints including Vermeer’s ‘Girl with a Pearl Earring’ or ‘the Dutch Mona Lisa’. Green potted plants were everywhere.

The food was amazing. My bowl of fruit contained bananas, strawberries, three types of melon, oranges, pineapple, mango and grapes. Oh, and don’t forget the slices of kiwi fruit. Even the bowl of yogurt had a slice of kiwi on top. Tom’s plate was very colorful. The scramble contained Italian sausage, tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and onions. His home fries with onions were scrumptious. The oatmeal molasses bread was moist and chewy. Even the coffee was good. My hot chocolate came in a jug along with a bowl of whipped cream and it was also great. The food itself got two thumbs up from both of us.

There were two unisex restrooms right at the back of the cafe which, in themselves, were very basic with very little room inside. What amused me greatly was the hand written notice on the door which read – ‘Door needs to be closed with force, then locked. (Don’t be caught with your pants down.)’

Our verdict on Zachary’s – a warm, lively, funky cafe with plenty of character. The food, wait staff and ambience were first class. Get there early or be prepared to wait. Definitely one of the best places we have been to and we will certainly be back.

Must just mention the note on the shop window of Moon Zoom which is almost next to Zachary’s which read ‘ Having an ugly Christmas sweater party or are you just ‘hip’ or ironic? Gives you a flavor of the Santa Cruz culture.

Zachary’s Restaurant
819 Pacific Ave
Santa Cruz, CA 95060

San Francisco skyline on the way over to Angel Island from Tiburon

A few weeks ago Margaret attended a voice over class in Sausalito so I had the day to head over to Angel Island. The Angel Island Immigration Station was recently restored. It’s very well done and quite moving to see how people were treated while trying to immigrate. Not a real proud moment in our history but it is what it is and to their credit the State Parks Department didn’t sugar coat it.

Between 1910 and 1940 the Angel Island Immigration Station was where immigrants were detained if they were sick, their papers weren’t in order or they were Chinese. After 1924 immigrants were detained there if they were from anywhere in Asia. Families were separated and kept in locked, cramped, unsanitary quarters. The immigration station was called the “Ellis Island of the west” but the treatment of Asians, Russians, Mexicans and other immigrants was not welcoming at all.  If you were European or held first and second class tickets you would be processed on board ship and allowed to disembark in San Francisco. If not you you were taken to Angel Island for processing. Sometimes it would take months to finally get approval to immigrate. Many folks were sent back to their native country. Here’s more information on their journey to America.

During their confinement under lock and key many took to carving poetry in the wall. As you wander around the barracks you can see the graffiti on just about all the walls.  Most were painted and plastered over but the markings are still visible. It’s very moving to see what must have been desperate times.

Detained in this wooden house for several tens of days,
It is all because of the Mexican exclusion law which implicates me.
It’s a pity heroes have no way of exercising their prowess.
I can only await the word so that I can snap Zu’s whip.

From now on, I am departing far from this building
All of my fellow villagers are rejoicing with me.
Don’t say that everything within is Western styled.
Even if it is built of jade, it has turned into a cage.

– From the walls of Angel Island Immigration Station, author unknown

Some of the graffiti carved in the walls.

Really enjoyed my day on Angel Island. Next time we’ll bring the bikes again.

Fireboat along the Embarcadero underneath the Bay Bridge

Every year the US Navy comes into San Francisco and the event is called Fleet Week. This year 13 ships came into the bay and twelve were open for public visits. There were parades and demonstrations plus the Blue Angels practicing on Thursday and Friday and performing on Saturday. They were due to perform on Sunday as well but the fog cut the display short.

Saturday would have been a better day as the ships enter the bay under the GG Bridge in the morning. That would have been a sight to see but we didn’t wake up in time. We decided to drive up on Sunday though and set off early as we knew parking in the city would be at a premium.

We took 101 and exited on Mariposa and headed towards the ballpark. Driving along the Embarcadero, I spotted the the first ship. It was the aircraft carrier USS Carl Vincent anchored in the middle of the bay. This is the only ship which isn’t open to public viewing unfortunately. Just before the Bay Bridge we saw a second ship moored at Pier 30-32 . This one had helicopters on the deck.

Our plan was to park in the Howard Street car park but when we arrived it was closed. Nearby there were parking meters and at 7 in the morning there were plenty not being used. We expected to pay but, when Tom put his credit card in, the screen said we had four hours free parking. No complaints there!

Along the Embarcadero

We walked to the Embarcadero and turned right. Tom needed coffee and we both wanted breakfast. There are now a lot of eating places along the Embarcadero but none of them were open. Along the way we passed the ship with the helicopters at Pier 30-32. I discovered the ship was called the USS Bonhomme Richard. Already a line of people had formed who were waiting to look over the ship. There was no charge but there sure were a lot of rules – photo ID needed, no photography, open toed shoes or backpacks. That meant that neither of us could go on board because of course Tom had his camera and I had a backpack. A US coastguard told me I could leave my backpack beyond the black and white information board, which was over 100 yards away. As if I would just leave it there in a completely unsecured location with nobody to look after it! Ah well, next time we will know better.

Still on on the lookout for breakfast, we crossed the road because Tom had spotted a likely looking place but it turned out to be a convenience store. I noticed a realtor sign listing properties for sale. I asked Tom if he fancied a two bedroomed, two bathroom apartment with amazing views over the bay. Only kicker being they were all over $1 million. That idea was a non starter.

Sidewalk art

Back across the Embarcadero we came to Java House. We have eaten there before so knew what we were in for, namely high prices and mediocre quality, but there was nothing else around. We both ordered the (three egg) cheese omelet with hash browns and toast. Tom had coffee and I just had water. No complaints about the view over a marina and the bay with the the USS Carl Vincent aircraft carrier in the background but the cramped, uncomfortable seating, the small omelet (debatable whether it was a three egg omelet) and plastic plates were a different matter. The price of our meal was not cheap either at $18 but it was food. At the next table, which was awfully close, were two bikers and I couldn’t help but overhear most of their conversation. At one point, they were talking about San Juan Bautista, so my ears pricked up. Looking back at our previous review, I did say that we probably wouldn’t eat there again and my opinion has not changed.

There is just something about a sailor in a uniform that I have always admired, due maybe to the fact that my father was a sailor.  Walking back along the Embarcadero, there were lots of sailors and marines walking around in their smart uniforms and they added a spot of glamor to the normal galaxy of joggers, skateboarders, in-line skaters, tourists and dog walkers. People watching along the Embarcadero is always fun but this visit was even better than usual. The beautiful weather helped of course.  When Tom stopped to take photographs, I took the opportunity to sit on one of the plethora of benches along the way. It is amusing and sometimes frustrating to hear snatches of conversations as people walked or jogged by. I would add though, that amongst this array of humankind one must not forget the homeless and less fortunate members of our society.

Naval ship

Talking of seats, in one section there are a number of unusual benches. On first sight, you may only notice that they are made out of concrete and painted yellow, but look closer.  Every so often along the edges are brass fixtures to discourage skateboarders.  In addition, there are other brass sculptures scattered randomly depicting octopuses, turtles, starfish, scollop shells and sand dollars. The black and white poles are also interesting as they each display lots of information on the history of the Embarcadero. One post I read on this visit, contained details of the mailboats which worked in and out of San Francisco and another about the fire boats which use sea water to put out fires.  Right behind the latter post was the fire house and moored up were the two current fire boats – the Phoenix and the Guardian. As you walk along the Embarcadero, also look out for poems which have been engraved on brass plaques and embedded into the sidewalk. This is one I noted:

They dream
they dream of
dreams about
themselves
-Jack Spicer

(When I got home I looked up Jack Spicer and discovered that the above is only fragments from the poem.) One interesting, temporary, feature we almost missed, were several colorful chalk drawings on the sidewalk. There was a humming bird, an octopus and a seahorse.

Entrance to Sydney Park

When we reached the Ferry Building at the foot of Market Street, we went inside. Being a Sunday, there was no farmers’ market outside but the shops inside were just beginning to open up. First of all though we paid a visit to Peets so Tom could have a decent cup of coffee and I enjoyed a wonderful hot chocolate. Then we walked round the interesting collection of shops, most of them selling different sorts of food goodies from artisan bread, olive oil, mushrooms, nuts, dried fruits and meat to luxuries like wine, gelato and gourmet chocolate.

Back outside, we continued walking north along the Embarcadero looking for more naval ships. Eventually we reached Pier 27 where we saw not only a line of people waiting to get onto the pier but lots of sailors congregating. I could just see the bow of a ship but not the name of it. I went up to a group of young sailors and asked (any excuse to talk to a sailor of course) the names. They were happy to tell me that they were the USS Antietam and the USS Milius. Whilst talking to them, I also discovered that they were getting ready to take part in the parade starting in North Beach at 12.30.

We decided that it was time to make our way back to the car but instead of walking back down the

Transamerica Pyramid

Embarcadero amongst the hordes of people now promenading, we crossed the road where it was less crowded. Then we cut through a small park called the Sea Wall Lot to Front Street. We spotted a brick arch and went to take a closer look. It marked one of the entries to a park called Sydney Park, which was named after a Sydney G Walton. I could find out no details of who he was until I got home and then discovered Sydney Grant Walton was a San Franciscan banker in the early part of the 20th century. I also found out the archway is called the the Colombo Market Arch and was once part of the San Francisco produce market. The park itself was very interesting. While we were there, a group of older people were doing Tai Chi, which is always fascinating to watch.  There were a number of sculptures in the park including an eye catching one of Georgia O’Keefe. When I first saw it from the archway I thought it was made out of wood but it turned out to be cast bronze. It depicts Georgia O’Keefe sitting on a log with her two dogs.

Tom wanted to take some photographs of the Transamerica Pyramid so we made our way towards it. Of course the building is one of the most recognizable features of the San Francisco skyline. Although it is still known as the Transamerica Pyramid, it’s official name is now The Pyramid Center.  I particularly liked the sculptured trees outside cut to look like pyramids.

Eventually we made it back to the car and managed to avoid an excess fee even though we were a little over the maximum four hours free parking. The end of another perfect day.

Coastal scene from Point Lobos State Reserve

Our destination was Point Lobos State Natural Reserve  to the south of Carmel just off Highway 1. On our last visit to Big Sur, we had planned to stop off at the park but, being tight with our cash, we wanted to park outside and walk in. There were no safe spots outside the park so we carried on. This time we were prepared to pay the entrance fee.

We set off before 6 while it was still dark. There was a nip in the air, Fall is upon us. Traffic was surprisingly heavy for a Sunday morning at that time. Within an hour, we were approaching Monterey. It was beginning to get light. Then we ran into fog, which was not unexpected. We hoped the sun would burn it all off in due course.

Of course breakfast was a priority and we stopped at the Barnyard Shopping Village outside Carmel at the From Scratch Restaurant – see previous post. Driving back towards Highway 1 afterwards on Carmel Valley Road, we were surprised to discover that we couldn’t turn left. We assumed there must be another way out of the Barnyard  Shopping Village which would have brought us to traffic lights where we would have turned left.

Old whalers cabin in Whalers Cove at Point Lobos Reserve

The entrance to Point Lobos SNR was on our right about a mile further south. There were several cars parked outside but we turned into the park. The entrance fee is $10 per car or $9 for seniors. We happily parted with our $9 and received a brochure, which included a very detailed map. Looking at the map, we decided to head for Whalers Cove first.

The car park was very nearly full but we were lucky to grab the last spot available. This is the only place in the reserve where scuba divers can enter the water and we decided that most of the cars parked there must belong to scuba dives because there were a lot of people walking around in wet suits andy most of the vehicles had scuba gear in the back. According to the Point Lobus SNR, only half of the park can be viewed onland.  By scuba diving you see the other half.

Immediately we were struck by the awesome beauty of the place. A sheltered bay was in front of us thick with kelp. We walked back up the road to the old cabin at the side of the road. A plaque outside said it was built by Chinese fishermen in the 1850′s. It is now used as a cultural history museum. Peeking through the window it looked interesting but it didn’t open until 9 am. Just opposite a sign marked the beginning of the Granite Point Trail so that is where we headed.

Sea otter at Point Lobos State Reserve

It was a beautiful trail and so peaceful. The sun had come out and it was quite warm but it felt chilly when walking through the shady parts.  Fortunately I had my sweatshirt on. I also had my binoculars and was on the lookout for sea otters as kelp is their favorite feeding ground. I saw no sea otters at that point but I did hear the distinctive tap, tap, tap of an otter probably using a stone to break open a shellfish. The path twisted and turned and a different view was revealed every couple of minutes. From the other side of the bay, I watched a boat pull into the cove and half a dozen scuba divers swam out to it. The first part of the trail is wheelchair accessible and where that part ends there is a conveniently placed bench.  If it hadn’t been in the shade I would have taken the opportunity to sit down and take in the view.

Instead we took a less accessible trail down to Coal Chute Point. The point is so named because in the 1870′s coal was discovered nearby. After the coal was mined it was taken first by horse drawn wagons and then loaded into ore carts on a tramway and taken to Coal Chute Point.  The water there is very deep and ships could get close to land to take on the coal as it cascaded from the chute. Now there is a a wonderful view of Monterey Bay.  It was here I saw my first otters of the day. A pair of them were not far off shore, an adult and lighter colored juvenile. The white face of the adult was clearly visible. They swam on their backs and dived every so often. After one dive the adult appeared with a shellfish in its paws and it turned on its back and swam out of sight. It was a real treat to see them so close. Tom spotted a bird down below, busily probing the rocks. It was black with yellow eyes, a red beak and light pink feet. I’d seen one before at Mendocino and couldn’t work out what it was. This time I tried harder. A lady walking by saw me consulting iBird West on my iPad. She said she thought it was an oyster catcher and with that information I was able to find out that it was a Black Oyster Catcher.

The trail we were on went a little further towards Granite Point and joined up with the Moss Cove Trail but we turned back. The museum in the whalers cabin beckoned us. Inside the cabin Wayne, the volunteer in charge, was happy to talk about the reserve and passed on lots of useful information. The exhibits in the museum displayed not only the cultural history of the area back to when a branch of the Ohlone tribe called Rumsien were in residence for about 2,500 years until the early 1800′s but also the commercially viable industries which sprouted up in the mid 19th century.  The first to arrive in the early 1850′s after the Rumsien had disappeared were Chinese fishermen who made the perilous journey across the Pacific in small junks. They set about harvesting abalone which abounded in the ocean. This industry flourished until the 1920′s.  In the mid 1850′s a granite quarry was established in Whalers Cove. The car park is now on the site. From the trail you can easily see where the quarry was. Portuguese whalers arrived in the 1860s and that business thrived for over 20 years.

The pristine park we can enjoy today was very nearly a non starter. In the 1890′s a scheme was hatched to sell 1,000 residential lots in the Whalers Cove area. Fortunately an engineer from back East came and fell in love with the area. His name was Alexander Allan. He bought 640 acres and he also set about buying up all the residential lots which had been sold. In the 1920′s, efforts were made to protect the cypress tress which grow here and no where else. First of all Allan sold some of his land to the State of California and later donated a whole lot more and the reserve was born.

The fog rolling in at Point Lobos Sate Reserve

It was time to move on and explore some more of Point Lobos. Our next stop was where both the Sea Lion Point Trail and the Cypress Grove Trail start. The park was getting busier but once again we found a parking place without too much trouble. We decided to take the Cypress Grove Trail and discovered a whole lot more of the attractions to be seen. At the end of this small peninsula is the Allan Memorial Grove. It is a circular trail and we took the counter-clockwise direction. We walked to the first overlook and were surprised to see some fog rolling in which looked like smoke coming off the trees. While I was admiring the view and Tom was busy taking photograps, a group of bird watchers turned up. One of the guys was wearing an Oregon Ducks T-Shirt and he commented on my Oregon Ducks sweatshirt. It always surprises me how many people say ‘Go Ducks’ when they see my sweatshirt. They were a chatty group and as we were leaving someone spotted an Oregon Junco – how appropriate. Apparently it is hard to tell the difference between them and the Yellow Eyed Junco apart from their call.

Further along the trail as we neared North Point it became steeper and the views more spectacular. At Pinnacle Cove there were steps going up and then down on the other side. Although there was fog offshore it was not drifting ashore so the views along the coast were of the Big Sur coastline which has to be seen to be believed. I can see why they call this reserve the ‘jewel of the California state park system’. Back in the car park, we contemplated taking the Sea Lion Point Trail but opted to drive to the end of the road to take in the whole park. The road is a wee bit narrow in places and because folks are so busy looking at the views, they tend to wander into the middle of the road. One has to drive very carefully. At the start of the Bird Island Trail we turned around in the car park and headed back.

We certainly enjoyed our time at the Point Lobos State Reserve and wonder why we had never visited before.  I’m sure we will come here again and walk some more of the trails.

From Scratch Restaurant in the Barnyard Shopping Center off Highway 1 in Carmel Valley

From Scratch Restaurant is located in the Barnyard just off Highway 1. Many times we have driven this way and neither of us realized what a gem there was so close to Highway 1. I had found the restaurant online the day before and thought it would be worth trying out but we were not prepared for the Barnyard. For those who you who have not discovered it either, let me explain. It is a shopping center but it is more than the normal run of shopping malls. It is called the Barnyard Shopping Village because it consists of half a dozen large barn like buildings which house small shops in and around them which all fit in with the barnyard theme.

All this cuteness has a downside. Finding any one shop is difficult. We drove round several times without spotting the From Scratch Restaurant. I saw a directory on a wall so we stopped to look at.  It wasn’t all that easy to find the restaurant but we realized we were pretty close, at least we were near the correct barn. Nearby we noticed the Carmel Valley Roasting Coffee Company and thought we would first of all find the restaurant and then come back for a coffee.  I knew the restaurant opened at 7.30 and as it was only 7 am, so we had plenty of time.  We walked around a very nice patio, with benches to sit on and lots of flowers, and saw a sign for the restaurant. OK, we knew where it was, so we went back for a coffee for Tom and a hot chocolate for me.  The coffee shop was very nice. For starters the coffee was good but the surroundings were very pleasant too.  Several comfortable sofas and coffee tables were placed around the room and most of them were vacant. The half an hour we spent there was relaxing and the natives were friendly.

Just after 7.30 we set off to walk to the restaurant thinking it would be easy.  It wasn’t. We thought the sign we saw was above the shop but we were proved wrong.  There was a very nice florist there and a couple of other interesting shops but no restaurant.  We wandered a bit further and come to another inviting patio but no sign which said From Scratch Restaurant.  On a pillar there was a noticeboard which looked suspiciously like a menu board showing the specials.  On closer inspection it was what we were looking for but there was no sign saying From Scratch Restaurant and if there was we certainly didn’t see it.

Inside there were a few customers and lots of empty tables. We were told to sit where we liked and we chose a table near a fireplace and close to the window. The server came straight up with the menus and she was very friendly. Tom ordered Smoked Salmon Benedict, which was 12.95 and I had Oatmeal for $5.95.

The decor was very nicely done. On the wall near us were lots of original water colors by Mary Alice Hinman which could be bought for $150 each. The opposite wall displayed framed colored photographs by Miguel Dominguez which could also be bought. On the mantlepiece above the fireplace were a decorative teapot, fruit in a tall glass jar and a sign which said ‘ Live High’.

Before long our food was served and it looked wonderful. Tom really enjoyed the benedict which was plumped full of smoked salmon and my oatmeal, although it was not steel cut oats, was scrumptious.  In fact the food was amazing.

Our visit ended with my trip to the one unisex restroom. Although it was not quite as luxurious as I expected it was perfectly adequate. A poster, depicting whales and tropical fish, hung on one wall and an orchid growing in a pot sat on a small table.

This is definitely one breakfast restaurant which we both recommend highly and will certainly be visiting again. I’m sure it must get really busy later in the morning so I suggest you get there early if you plan to visit.

Carnegie Arts Center in Turlock, California

We are back on the road again after a long absence. This Summer has been interesting with visitors, vacations and other obligations. It is good to be on our travels once again.

It was a Sunday and we were on our way home from Fresno to San Jose via Turlock. Why did we want to go to Turlock and where the heck is it? Turlock is in the Central Valley to the south of Sacramento and we wanted to go to the Ansel Adams photography exhibition  in the Carnegie Arts Center . I had to look on the map to see exactly where Turlock was as I had never heard of it. Our route was along Highway 99. Up to this point, I had only been on Highway 99 from Fresno to Highway 152 and so far I had not impressed. Once beyond Chowchilla the surroundings improved for a while. Turlock itself was not too bad either.

The exhibition is being held at the newly refurbished Carnegie Arts Center until January 8, 2012 .  The building was once a library built in 1916 with Carnegie funding. In 1968 a new library was built in Turlock and the original building became an Arts Center. In 2005 a fire gutted the building. For a few years it was debated whether or not to rebuild or to start from scratch. Thank goodness the decision was made to preserve as much of the original building as possible and to build an extension to it which complemented the original design. The newly restored outside was impressive; the blending of the new with the original had been very well done. Inside was remarkable too. The grand opening had been the day before and we were the first members of the general public to turn up that day. We were greeted very warmly and made to feel really special. We were expecting to pay the advertsied entrance fee of $10 but were told the first weekend was free. We were encouraged to give a donation, which we were happy to do.

The exhibition itself was amazing. Of course there were the well known Ansel Adams photographs but also a lot nobody had seen before. There was one section on his portraits and these were the ones I liked the best. My favorite was one depicting a farming family in the Central Valley sitting on a porch. Tom liked one of a lady on the inside of a screen door looking out but not at the camera. Each picture had a comprehensive description at the side including where it was taken and when. One interesting touch was a long video showing excerpts from different interviews with Ansel Adams. I had seen photos of him but to actually hear him talk and see him in different locations was truly revealing.

It took us a couple of hours to take in all the Ansel Adams photographs and then we took a wander around the rest of the building. At one point we could see the external wall of the original brick building with signs of the damage caused by the fire.  One gallery is in the old building but it was completely empty.  The day before it had been a hive of activity on Opening Day.  It looks like a great place to hold a wedding. In the new section there is also a conference room.

Del Puerto Canyon

Back on the road again, we drove towards I5 through Patterson. Now Patterson was another town I had never been to before and was surprised at the number of palm trees lining the roads. Tom and I were discussing which route we would take home – drive south to Highway 152 through Gilroy and onto 101 or north to I580 and over the Altamont, through Livermore to I680. Then we noticed that there was a third alternative over the Diablo Range and Mount Hamilton to Highway 130. We decided to live dangerously and go the road ‘less traveled’. Before we embarked on our adventure, we stocked up on food and water just in case we broke down. We were a little worried how we would find the right road over the mountains but it turned out to be easy. The main road from Patterson passed under I5 and we found ourselves on Del Puerto Canyon Road. Within minutes we left civilisation behind and enjoyed the scenic ride. The road, at least until we had driven through Frank Raines Park where we saw green grass, was well maintained but we saw very few cars on Del Puerto Canyon Road. We stopped to eat our lunch in idyllic surroundings halfway between the park and Highway 130.  Not one car passed us. We were relieved to reach 130 without breaking down. The highest point was Mt Hamilton, where the Lick Observatory is situated. From then on we had plenty of traffic to contend with, especially all the cyclists. We were happy to drive slowly behind them as they coasted down the mountain until it was safe to pass them. The cyclists going the other way took the steep gradient effortlessly but I didn’t envy them. As we drove through the Joseph D Grant Country Road I saw Quimby Road off the the right. Checking the map, it looked a quicker way to get back, so we turned round and turned onto it. Then began the narrowest and steepest road we had encountered all day with some really heart stopping hairpin bends. The views over Silicon Valley were spectacular though. Before too long we were back into civilization and on Capital Expressway. Yes it did take longer to take that route home but we really enjoyed ourselves. It is not something we would do every time we travel to the Central Valley but we were pleased we had done it once.

Quaint Mendocino along the northern California coast

This is our last day in Fort Bragg.  Several family members were driving home today and left early in the morning so we bid them farewell. A large proportion of the wedding party remained and were going on the Skunk Train. We did think about joining them but when we looked into it we changed our mind. We thought the train would be going all the way from Fort Bragg to Willits but, on looking closer, the round trip from Fort Bragg only goes halfway to Northspur. There is another train which goes from Willits to Northspur. The price was $49 each, presumably for each round trip, so we decided it was too expensive. The weekend so far had been just within our budget and a trip on the Skunk Train would have pushed us over the limit. We decided to do a bit of sightseeing.

Judy, Rachel’s Mum, came with us so the three of us set off at about 9:30 in the morning. Our first stop was Noyo Harbor. It was a little difficult to find. We guessed where it was because just north of the junction with Highway 20, Highway 1 crosses over a bridge and we could see some small ships. There were no signs pointing to it that we could see but when we saw a street sign which said Harbor Drive we thought it could lead to the harbor, which it did. I, for one,  was surprised how far in from Highway 1 it was and the number of big fishing ships which were moored there. We parked our car near the Highway 1 bridge and walked down to a small beach. Tom, as usual, was busy taking photographs so Judy and I wandered on down to the water and chatted. I noticed some strange tracks in the sand. They led from underneath some rocks and meandered across the sand, under a log and to another rock. At first I was convinced they had been left by a snake but on studying them closer we came to the conclusion that a smallish crab had made them.

We got back into the car and headed to the main harbor, but most of the boats were on the other side of the estuary. On our side of the water were a couple of eating and watering holes, fishing tackle shops and other marine type services. A lot of places were advertising fishing trips.

Noyo Harbor in Fort Bragg

After we had exhausted what there was to see at Noyo Harbor we turned south on Highway 1 and headed to Mendocino. I have been to Mendocino a few times and it is cute. It is a very arty crafty sort of place with lots of boutique shops selling higher end gifts – but not too classy. I did buy a couple of Christmas presents which I will take to England when I visit in August. The weather was once again on the sunny side though occasionally the sun disappeared behind the clouds. We wandered around a couple of art galleries and then to the back streets looking for the Mendocino Art Center. Judy had been there a few times and had been very impressed with it but she couldn’t remember quite where it was. We went up and down streets looking for it but it was no hardship. We were away from most of the shops and in the residential area. There are some very nice little houses there and most gardens were well tended with lots of flowers and shrubs. We kept seeing a strange looking tree and none of us knew what it was. They seemed to be growing like weeds there. In one house where they had at least half a dozen specimens, they had posted a sign explaining what they were. I did write down the name on the back of a receipt but, of course, when I needed the information I could not find the receipt. I hoped Tom managed to get some nice photos of them (Tom: Nope I didn’t). If anybody who has been to Mendocino knows what they are, I would be most grateful to hear from you.

By this time we were all hungry and still hadn’t found the Art Center. Near the Post Office we found the Mendocino Deli on Ukiah street and it looked ideal. I had a bowl of clam chowder, Tom and Judy had sandwiches. They have a nice little garden at the back which we retreated to to wait for our food. It was very pleasant sitting there eating our lunch and chatting, chatting, chatting. After we had our fill we continued our mission to find the Mendocino Art Center by tramping the back streets of Mendocino.

Eventually Judy became excited because she began to recognize familiar signs and suddenly there it was - The Mendocino Art Center . The main building was set in a beautiful garden with other associated buildings on the periphery. Looking at their website, the art center has more to offer than a tour round the various galleries in the main building. The other buildings houses artists’ studios and workshops are held throughout the year. There is also accommodation available at a very reasonable reate for those attending workshops. The center offers various musical entertainments as well and during the summer months BBQs are held where the entrance and music is free but there is a small charge for the food. It is quite a happening place.

But to get round to our visit on this day, the garden is a sight for sore eyes even before the front entrance is reached. Many interesting and varied sculptures can be spotted and discovered in various areas of the garden. On the front lawn were an amusing collection of sculptures which twisted and twirled with the wind, made out of a variety of odd materials. To the left of the front door, is a wonderful, large horse’s head made from twigs and small branches. It is a powerful exhibit.

Saw this guy taking a little siesta at Noyo Harbor

Inside the three of took off in different directions. Don’t know where Judy and Tom wandered off to but I strolled around the ground floor.  I found a gallery displaying paintings which had been entered into a competition, with the winners and runners up marked by ribbons. Then I found myself in a wonderful little gallery which was dedicated to a local artist , Christopher Stuart Lloyd. Sadly he died suddenly in early June this year of a heart attack when he was just 54 years of age. What he has left behind is amazing. What drew me in were a couple of big, round mobiles hanging from the ceiling. On closer inspection of the first one I could see that suspended inside on very thin fishing line, hanging in straight lines, were an assortment of metal objects. Some were relatively large like spoons but others were tiny – nuts, bolts, nails etc. The other mobile contained a collection of cog wheels and clock parts. I read that Christopher used to explore some of the inaccessible beaches on the Mendocino headlands by climbing down to them on a rope. Most of the objects had been washed up many, many years ago from ships which had been shipwrecked along the coast. Also on display at the art center was a poignant poem written by someone who knew him very well. Reading it brought tears to my eyes. Just wish I had written some of the words down.

Mendocino sunset

I had to go outside and sit down on a bench near the horse’s head to reflect and contemplate. When Tom and then Judy joined me I told them about the Christopher Lloyd exhibition and they went to view it. They were similarly affected. Makes me wish I knew about his work beforehand.

We made our way back to Shoreline Cottages to get ready for our last night of celebration, though it was a much reduced party. We all met up at the house where Rachel had been staying and had a BBQ in the garden. This is where Rachel originally planned to hold the wedding. It was right on the coast with a wonderful view of the ocean. We gloried in a wonderful sunset after we had eaten our fill and then chatted and laughed for hours before sad farewells were exchanged and we all made our way back to our respective lodgings.

Seagulls lined up in Fort Bragg

We had arrived at Shoreline Cottages  on Highway 1 before our room was ready. Shoreline Cottages is a small complex of eleven cabins, each decorated with a different theme. Rachel had reserved all but one for some of the wedding party. Some members of both families had arrived the day before but nobody was there. This gave us the opportunity to go and explore a bit.

Back on Highway 1 traveling towards Fort Bragg, we turned left at a sign pointing to Pomo Park Bluffs. As we got out of the car we could hear the mournful tolling of a bell on the top of a buoy which marked the entrance to Noyo harbor. We could not see the harbor from where we stood but we could see the dangerous rock which abounded in Noyo Bay. I’m sure there have been many shipwrecks off this coast.

There were some interesting information boards here and there from which I learnt that Fort Bragg had been a major logging center in it’s prime. When the industry slowed, due to over logging, fishing took over. Off the coast here the local King Salmon are abundant. Now sport fishing is a big tourist attraction. One board informed me that fisherman used to come to this point (which is called Todd’s Point) to look at the sea to decide whether it was safe enough to go to sea. If the weather conditions were less than safe, they would go home and wait for another day. This place (in certain circles) became known as Chicken Point.

We drove into Fort Bragg in search of lunch. I have only been there once before when we had our family Christmas gathering in Casper. The weather was bleak then and I was not impressed with Fort Bragg. We didn’t go into the town center but only to a movie theater on the outskirts. This time around, with the sun shining, it looked a a whole lot better, besides which the historic downtown area is more more interesting. We found a nice little cafe called Living Light which specialized in vegan food. We had a salad each. To drink I had coconut milk and Tom had a ginger and lime concoction.

By the time we returned to Shoreline Cottages, our room was still not ready but some of the family had arrived plus we met the bridegroom’s parents, John and Annette, who’d recently arrived from New Zealand. At 2 we were able to take possession of our room, which was called the Rose and Ivy room. Naturally the bed cover and all the decorations followed this theme. It was a very nice room with a bathroom and fully equipped kitchen.

Rachel and Dave at the wedding rehearsal

The wedding rehearsal was at 3.30 and we were attending as Tom is the photographer. Poor Rachel and Dave have experienced a lot of stress over the last few weeks. Only last week the venue for the wedding had to be changed. Fortunately Rachel and Dave were able to find the ideal location at the Mendocino Botanical Gardens. The twenty minute walk through the gardens from the front entrance to the chosen venue was magnificent but our first view of The Cliff House was daunting.

It turned out to be more of a rustic cabin than a house. There was a lot to be said in favor of it though as the view of ocean through the large window which stretched across the front was awesome. So why was daunting? The mere fact that the window was there posed a problem to Tom from a photographer’s perspective. Also the space seemed very small. The furniture consisted of display tables, information posters on the wall and two huge wooden benches. Tom worked out his strategies though and took a lot of photos during the rehearsal.

The rehearsal went very well. Rachel and Dave had a big hand in the script for the ceremony. It was full of feeling with humorous touches and very moving. We had the opportunity to meet the rest of Dave’s family plus some of Rachel and Dave’s friends who had parts to play in the ceremony the next day. Gayle, a retired Methodist minister who officiated, brought her warm personality, her calm and reassuring way and sense of humor the the proceedings.

Afterwards we all went back to Shoreline Cottages where all the wedding party, consisting of 38 people who were all staying in various locations in Fort Bragg, were gathering for a BBQ. The centerpiece was a signpost made by Jim, Rachel’s Dad, showing all the places and miles from Fort Bragg that folks had traveled from to be with Rachel and Dave on their special day. A good time was had by all, filled with cooking, eating, drinking and having fun. At the end of the evening, the diehards congregated around the fire pit to round off the evening.

Rachel's wedding gown with boots of course

The next day Tom and I arrived early at the house where Rachel was staying to take the ‘before’ photos. Rachel didn’t want photos of her getting ready or with bridesmaids and other people fussing around, so we concentrated on the dress and shoes. Did I say shoes? To be correct, this was one of the areas where Rachel showed her uniqueness because she was going to wear boots. Not just boots but cowboy boots and they were not just cowboy boots either but blue cowboy boots.

Leaving Rachel to get ready, Tom and I made our way to the botanical gardens where we parked in the event parking area which cut the walking time to the Cliff House down to five minutes. The weather was perfect with sunshine and no fog. Being right on the coast, a chilly breeze from offshore cooled things down but, considering days like this in Fort Bragg don’t happen as often as they do further south where we live, we considered ourselves lucky.

The Cliff House had been transformed by a team of hardworking family members and good friends. The steps down to the cabin were decorated with ribbons. Inside the benches had been pushed up against the back wall, along with the two display tables which had been covered with tablecloths. On one stood the champagne bottles in tubs of ice and glasses. On the other food had been arranged for a light lunch afterwards. Chairs had been brought in to provide seating for guests; vases of gladioli stood in the front; candles and sprigs of lavender were arranged on shelves lining the walls.

Tom busied himself taking photos of guests as they arrived and I was making sure that all couples, groups and special moments were caught. Rachel particularly wanted everybody to wear a hat (shades of the royal wedding in April) and many of the guests complied. Even the men joined in as you can see in the group picture in the gallery below. Instead of flower girls, Dave’s nephew and niece – who happened to be twins – blew bubbles. The bridegroom and his best man arrived looking happy and relaxed. Using her prerogative, Rachel arrived late. Tom and I stood outside to wait for her arrival. We both expected her to take the short walk from the car park so were facing the wrong direction. Glancing backwards I saw Rachel and Salvador (her best dude, not bridesmaid) approaching from the other way.  She looked radiant, strolling along holding up her dress with both hands, clearly showing her blue cowboy boots. Salvador followed, holding up the train of her dress. Tom managed to get a picture before she was brought to a stop so the folks inside didn’t catch a glimpse of the bride too soon.

The happy couple

The ceremony went beautifully and there wasn’t a dry eye in the place at the end. Tom was busy taking photos throughout but his task was made more difficult by the rearranged furniture. There were only two spots he could take photos from the side and avoiding over exposing everybody by taking shots directly towards the window. After the ceremony the photographs outside were taken on top of the bluffs with the ocean and coastline behind. The sun was still shining and nobody seemed to mind the chilly breeze coming off the ocean. The champagne reception with nibbles followed. Tom did stop to take a short break but then he was off again.

When the party broke up, Rachel, Dave, Stef the best man, Salvador the best dude, Tom and I wandered up to the main entrance and photos were taken along the way. The gardens were a perfect place to take some amazing photos – down by a pool, at a gazebo and around a sculpture.

Time to go back to our cottage and chill out for a bit. In the evening the whole wedding party met up at the Mendo Bistro in the center of Fort Bragg for the wedding reception. Even though there were other customers around we had a section laid out for us with nicely decorated tables and a customized menu. Afterwards there were a few speeches but on the whole it was an informal affair with everybody chatting and mingling and getting on like a house on fire. When we returned to Shoreline Cottages a few of us, once again, rounded off the evening around the fire pit with a couple of bottles of wine. The end of a perfect day.

Here’s a gallery of some photos from the wedding.

Flowers along the Mendocino coast

It is early on a Thursday morning and we were on our way to Fort Bragg for the weekend. There is a special reason for this trip – we are going to the wedding of Tom’s cousin Rachel and her kiwi fiancé, Dave. Tom will be the photographer. Fortunately it is not a big affair but a very small gathering of family and friends.

On the way we stopped a couple of times, once for breakfast and the other time to visit the refurbished Ford factory in Richmond. First though we had to negotiate the rush hour traffic at the junction of highways 880, 80, 580 and 24 around the Bay Bridge.  It’s called the “maze” for a reason.

At first we encountered a bit of fog before we reached 101 but the sun soon popped up. The last few days have been extremely hot and we looked forward to some cooler weather on the coast. 880 was the normal boring ride complete with poor road surfaces and congested traffic.

Just before 7 am we stopped for breakfast in Berkley at one of our favorite breakfast stops – Bette’s Oceanview Diner on 4th Street. Normally it is crowded when we eat here at the weekend but this time we very nearly had the place to ourselves. We both ordered two scrambled eggs cooked the special Bette’s way ($3.25). Tom had black beans and salsa ($3.95) and I had a fruit cup ($4.25).

By 7.30 we were back on 80 heading for Richmond. I had never been to Richmond before so was looking forward to seeing a new place. Mind you, I have heard bad reports of Richmond. All too soon we were on 580 and had turned off at Harbor Way. First impressions of Richmond were good. Yes it is industrial but it looked and felt OK. I couldn’t judge Richmond itself as this was the only part of Richmond I saw.

Check out the photo gallery below. Click on any of the images. Lots of birds.

Ford Point (originally called the Ford Motor Company Assembly Point) looked beautiful and imposing. The construction of the huge building was completed in 1930 and for over 10 years it continued to thrive with thousands of workers recruited from the midwest. During the Second World War, it turned to making tanks. In 1956 it was closed down, leaving thousands of displaced workers. With nowhere else to go and no jobs available, Richmond became very run down. Now, over 50 years later, the derelict factory has been transformed back to its former glory. The sun, reflected back by the glass of the hundreds of small windows along the front of the building, glittered and twinkled. Tom parked the car at the water’s edge with a fine view of San Francisco city across the bay. Quite a few businesses have been attracted to set up shop here but there are lots of spaces still available. Eventually it is hoped that the building will be a bustling hive of activity once again.

Even though the sun was shining, it was cold outside the car so we didn’t stay long. Soon we were crossing the bay over the Richmond/San Rafael Bridge. This is definitely the ugliest bridge in the Bay Area and it certainly did not feel the safest one. The view of San Quentin with Mount Tam in the background greeted as as we breasted the bridge. From this angle San Quentin looked nothing like a prison with it’s cream brickwork and palm trees in front.

The next part of the journey on 101 through Novato, Petaluma, Santa Rosa and Healdsburg was mundane. North of Healdsburg heading towards Cloverdale the scenery became more interesting with rolling hills to the right and patches of vines here and there. To the left, higher hills accompanied us. We turned off 101 soon after bypassing Cloverdale onto Highway 128. We started to climb steadily and soon were negotiating twisty bends and hairpin corners. We had to stop several times for roadworks and at one point we drove at 8 miles an hour behind a convey of slow moving vehicles with flashing lights which were in the process of mowing the grass at the side of the road. Then we had to slow down as a mother deer and her white spotted fawn crossed the road In front of us. It didn’t matter an awful lot as we were not in a great hurry and we were enjoying our surroundings.

We had a comfort stop in Boonville at 10. I bought some apples in a small deli but they had no public restrooms. I asked where the nearest one was and received the information that I would find one at the gas station on the way out of town. Boonville is a tiny town but it has it’s own language called ‘Boontling‘.

As 128 turned east towards the ocean, we drove through miles of forest between huge redwoods which lined both sides of the road. Driving through the trees was an eerie experience. We couldn’t see the sky and on either side the enormous trunks of the redwoods with their craggy bark towered above us. Eventually the scenery changed and we knew we were getting close to the ocean. Then we saw the ocean. We noticed a lot of whitecaps out there and could tell by the swaying grass and the dancing branches that it was breezy outside. At least it wasn’t foggy.

The last part of our journey was northwards on Highway 1 with the ocean on our left. We bypassed Mendocino and carried on to Fort Bragg pulling into Shoreline Cottages, where we will spend the next three nights, at 11:30 am.