Camper Capers

Parallel, By Leisa Chell- now available!

2012-10-07T21:28:00.000-07:00

OUT NOW-

Parallel by Leisa Chell is now available!

What is it all about-

Ever wanted to get off the work treadmill?

Ever wanted to just run away?

At the age of 37, Leisa, with her partner David decided to do just that. They left the rat race of Sydney and went walkabout, in a four-wheel-drive ute and slide-on-camper. Having packed up their Sydney rental home, for the next two years they experienced not just the natural beauty of Australia, but also what life means to them. Parallel, details some of those learnings, against a backdrop of the wonders of this sunburnt country.

Walkabout is about searching for the other half of yourself. When you lose connection with yourself, you go walkabout. You leave the physical world behind and when you are one again, you can continue the journey of life.

Is this the meaning of life? To simply exist and see what path you choose to take. During the two years of travel, Leisa pondered this eternal question. The answer brought an inner confidence, allowing her to begin to live her dreams.

She had been the advertising and communications manager of a travel company but relished swapping suits for shorts and T-shirts. Pit toilets and relying on solar power took some getting used to though! After a two-year odyssey Leisa and David returned to once again live in Sydney.

Over 170 pages, the book includes 16 pages of full colour photographs (by David Stubbin). RRP $25.00. Postage $5.00

Printed in Australia, Parallel is available direct from the ‘first time’ author, Leisa Chell. Payment can be made by cheque or bank deposit. Email leisachell@hotmail.com for details.

Top 5- 'Only in Australia'

2011-03-17T13:29:00.000-07:00

Australia has many unique sights and sounds, so here are our Top 5 delights that can only be found in Australia.

1. The world's only evidence of a dinosaur stampede, Lark Quarry (near Winton, Queensland)

Dinosaur footprints!

Now protected by a building, over 3,300 fossilised dinosaur footprints from 95 million years ago are as identifiable as if made yesterday, at Lark Quarry near Winton in Queensland.

A large herd of small two legged dinosaurs gathered on the banks of a forest lake to drink. The herd was stalked by a large Theropod, a four tonne angry, meat eating dinosaur. The herd panicked, stampeding across the muddy flats to escape the Theropod’s hungry jaws. It is a record of these terrifying minutes that is now frozen in time. A time when the world was cooler, wetter and dinosaurs roamed the earth. Lark Quarry- the building now protects the footprints

Prints of Mum’s, Dad’s and the kids can be made out as they ran, fearing for their life. The sight is pretty awesome and was the inspiration for the stampede scene in Jurassic Park.

2. Found only in Australia- the Black Opal, Lightening Ridge NSW
A friendly bunch of eclectic people have made the ‘Ridge’ that is Lightning Ridge, in Outback NSW home. The actual population is unknown with many living a transient life in camps on their opal leases.

Inside an opal mine, Lightning Ridge

Back then Lightning Ridge miner Amigo was struggling to find enough opal to purchase a house, so he decided to build his own. With not much money to spare he put his scrap material from mining towards building a castle. It now resembles the Roman ruins it was based upon, complete with trap doors and dungeons.

Amigo's house

Further up the road is the Astronomers Monument. A temple to Polish astronomer Nicolaus Copernicusthe, and indeed world’s astronomers, it was built by a Polish immigrant Alex Szperlak. After serving years in a Queensland prison for the crime of murder, he won the lottery and retired to the Ridge. By then he had changed his name to Robinson Crusoe, feeling he was the second such man. Filling hundreds of buckets with concrete enabled him to build this bizarre construction over a 15 year period from 1983 to 1998.

Alex's monument to the world's astronomers, Lightning Ridge

The walls of the ‘observatory’ are decorated with haunting words of injustice, for Alex did not commit the crime he was accused of. In fact, he was given a full pardon some 8 years later. Alas, Alex died when his camp burnt down in 1998.
However, opal is the main drawcard here. The famous black opal found that is found nowhere else in the world. Many have made their fortune (10 fold), but many have not. Unlucky in opal, one enterprising miner Ron Canlin, turned his mine into an underground art oasis. Over the past 12 years he has carved and painted every inch to create a visual feast, known as the Chamber of the Black Hand.

Egyptian Chamber, Chambers of the Black Hand

Donning our coloured mining hats we descended to the first level, some 11 metres underground. The carvings, which got better as his talent improved are quite remarkable. You can see in full 3D glory the Last Supper, a nine foot Archangel Gabriel, Gollum and other characters from Lord of the Rings and Australian flora and fauna. There are even Egyptian Chambers including a sarcophagus and Nephretiti. For the film lovers there is Jack Sparrow, Shrek, Puss in Boots and Donkey, Terracotta Soldiers from China and a Samurai warrior. The Jungle Room has lions, tigers, chimpanzees and elephant plus the cutest little meerkats.

Inside the Chamber of the Black Hand

Ron's is not a trained sculptor and his talent alone will mesmerise you. With a bit of creativity and courage you can make a go of anything out here.

Bordering the town on all sides are opal mines, mullock heaps and rusting equipment.

3. Red Cabbage Palms- found nowhere else in the world, Finke Gorge National Park, Northern Territory
This desert region of Australia holds many secrets and secret places. Palm Valley, in the Finke Gorge National Park, 20 kilometres from Hermannsburg is one such place. Palm Valley is a fascinating relic from literally millions of years ago, when Central Australia was covered in rainforest. With the gorge walls protecting all within from wind and the sandstone rock housing constant water, Red Cabbage Palms have survived from the dinosaur age and are found nowhere else in the world. WOW, living plants from the age of dinosaurs. The palms are thriving (however they are not red, as the name suggests) and this may be in no small part due to the 4WD track to see them being rather tricky to negotiate.

A lush oasis in the hot desert country- and Red Cabbage Palms found nowhere else in the world.

Dave and I abandoned our 4WD ute with 1 kilometre to go and walked the rest of the way into the valley. The track is actually the dry Finke River (which is the oldest river in the world), and not really a driveable road at all. If you do attempt to complete the drive, be very careful as most cars are rewarded with damage to the underside.

Finke Gorge- note the head wear needed out here, in this lost world.

I truly did expect to see a Triceratops foraging in this ‘lost world’. The high red walls of the gorge envelope majestic River Red Gums and of course the ‘Red’ Cabbage Palms and various cycads. With a fierce sun beating down on us this lush valley could easily have been mistaken for a mirage. We opted to do the 2 kilometre Arankaia walk, which traversed the valley before returning via the sandstone plateau. It was great to look down on this wonder, and contemplate just how it has survived in this hot, harsh country.

The changing colours of Finke Gorge

4. Fraser Island- the world's largest sand island, Queensland

The barge across takes only half an hour and you are soon on the world’s largest sand island. Fraser is isolated, yet full of natural wonders, famous for its dingos.

As the sun began to set, Dave nestled in a sand dune to take some photos. Dave was soon face to face with a dingo. The dog was patting distance, but once Dave stood and asserted his authority the dingo took off.

Driving along the golden beach, we spotted two turtles, entwined in an ‘intimate’ embrace. They had obviously got caught up in the heat of the moment, not realising they had been washed ashore.

'Loving' turtles

Leaving the beach, we took off for a scenic drive on one of the inland tracks. Track conjures up the image of a dirt road, perhaps narrow in places, perhaps with a few holes. Let me tell you the inland ‘tracks’ are serious 4WD territory.

Pristine beauty- the interior lakes of Fraser Island

Time for us to relax and we set up on the shores of Lake Boomanjin. Laying on my towel, we soon sank into the soft sand, fine as talcum powder and as pure white as the first snow. The water was crystal clear and soon washed away any stress from the diabolical 4WD tracks. Magical. Pure nature in her unspoilt glory.

The interior of Fraser is forest, albeit with a sandy base

As the days passed on the island, our 4WD and beach driving skills gained in confidence. We were soon trekking further up the beach, racing the tides to see sights such as the Maheno shipwreck and Eli Creek- were we floated along the creek all the way out to sea.

Swimming Eli Creek, which takes you right out to sea

Maheno shipwreck, Fraser Island (below)

But nothing can prepare you for a hidden washout on the beach, as we discovered too late. We became airborne, if for only a brief second and braced for the landing. However, it was nothing compared to the bounce of some of the inland tracks and we were certainly up for it again.

5. The World's flatest piece of limestone- the Nullarbor Plain
Crossing the Nullarbor is the most tedious, unrelenting drive in Australia. However, the enjoyment is retrospective at having 'done the Nullarbor.

There is really not much to see across the Nullarbor, so we made the most of all opportunities, like stopping to see a piece of Skylab at Balladonia. Back in 1979 Balladonia (which consists of a Roadhouse only) made world headlines when space debris from Skylab landed here. The then President of the US of A Jimmy Carter, even phoned to apologise.

The Nullarbor Plain

Back in the car we looked forward to our next stop to see the Caiguna Blowhole. The ‘Blowhole’ is a natural breathing hole for one of the limestone caves that lies beneath the Nullarbor Plain. Actually, the entire plain is made of limestone- the world’s flattest piece, covering about 200,000 square kilometres. It is so dry out here that no cliffs or valleys have been weathered like elsewhere, imagine how different the Nullarbor could be!

Caiguna Blowhole

Caiguna also signified the start of Australia’s longest straight road, all 146.6 kilometres without the hint of a bend, or any real change in scenery.

Madura marks midway between Perth and Adelaide and at the top of the Madura Pass we finally got a glimpse of the Southern Ocean from a lookout, far off in the distance over the Roe Plains. Camp for the night was again in the bush.

It is always interesting venturing off into the bush, with so many relics of past times and lives. We came across many abandoned old cars, hoping their owners fared a little better.

Even the buildings out here do not survive- the Eucla Telegraph Station which opened in 1877, is now being engulfed by sand dunes, soon to disappear forever. Sand is rising up the walls of each room, nearly touching the roof in parts.

Eucla Telegraph Station

But, we had reached the Southern Ocean and the Great Australian Bight. The sheer drop of the towering cliffs was a WOW moment. We were standing on the edge of Australia, some 90 metres above the pounding Southern Ocean below. The landscape was severe and so was the weather with strong winds wrapping us in a cold blanket.

The Great Australian Bight

With such a harsh environment no one lives out here, so although we had crossed the border into South Australia, it was another 460 kilometres before we reached the town of Ceduna.

Some of the great 'views' of Australia

2011-03-13T21:33:00.000-07:00

We have been asked by many people what our favourite spot in Australia was. There is not 'one' favourite, as many places hold many cherished memories for us. However, here are 5 of our favourite views:

Stay tuned for our next Top 5!

Number 1.
Uluru- Northern Territory

Neither words nor photos can truly express the awesome power of Uluru. The ‘rock’ is far bigger than expectations and seems to draw you in to her spirit. As you drive closer the rock becomes alive, her many drainage lines appearing as arms reaching out to pull you in. She devours the sky, sucking the very life out of all that is near. Once in her vortex you become mesmerized by what can only be described as her awesome presence. It is a view that you will never forget and one you will want to revisit.

Number 2.
Kakadu- Ubirr Rock- Northern Territory

The best of Ubirr is presented when you reach the top of Ubirr Rock. The 360 degree view over the Nabab floodplain across to Arnhem Land is stunning. Rich green lands reach out to the escarpment and are filled with life. Watching the sun go down ends a rewarding day. It is no wonder this view was used in the Northern Territory advertising campaign.

Number 3.
The Bungle Bungles- Western Australia
These rock formations rise majestically from the Spinifex covered sand and are really a sight to behold. They are actually very tall, dwarfing us as we weaved our way to Cathedral Gorge. Another amphitheatre, this gorge is almost 360 degrees of vertical sandstone walls, and one of the many sights to see at the Purnululu National Park.

Number 4.
Albany- Western Australia>

Albany is actually the town where the first dawn service was held in 1918, now a tradition of every ANZAC day. Mt Clarence, rising majestically above the town, was where the people of Albany gathered in 1914 to watch the convoy of ships destined for Egypt. The soldiers were then trained there before landing at Gallipoli. Now it hosts a monument to those who will never return to the harbour and a poignant spot, reflecting the ANZAC spirit.

Albany and her surrounds are full of natural beauty, including Little Beach. One of the prettiest beaches in Australia.

Number 5.
Duckhole Lake- Tasmania

A top 5 views of Australia would not be complete without an entry from Tasmania. The entire state is picturesque, however here is a little treasure for you.

Tasmania has a long history of logging. Forests dominate most of the island and there is much debate on whether to save these old hardwood forests, with some of Australia’s tallest trees.

Driving through Forestry land, we arrived at the Duckhole Lake Walk, just south of Dover. This area is a prime example of Tasmanian Forestry working in harmony, with the environment. Back in the 1920’s to 40’s this area was logged. Today there is no logging near ‘historical’ logging sites or natural creeks, to maintain both beauty and water quality. An easy hours walk to Duckhole Lake, the fern lined path is flat and wanders through new growth trees, covered in moss and lichen.

Goodbye

2010-07-31T16:49:00.000-07:00

Far in the distance, rising out of the flat plain land, Mt Kaputar was a splendid sight. The rise and fall of the mountain range bought us a sense of familiarity, a welcoming sight. The National Park, of which Mt Kaputar calls home, covers a vast area. In the far north of the park is Sawn Rocks. Ancient lava crystals having cooled at the same time have formed ‘organ pipe’ like structures. Looking somewhat man-made (they aren’t), the ones here are the best example in the world.

Sawn Rocks, Mt Kaputar NP, near Narrabri

Long walks up and down the mountain range inhabit the south of the park. Fortunately I had my driver (Dave) to drive us to the tip of the highest mountain. The road was steep and windy, the landscape changing from shrubs to Snow Gums. The thin air was chilly at the top, and we really expected it to snow at any moment. But the view was worth it- 360 degrees far into the distance. Infact, we could see right out to the Warrumbungles, some 94 miles away.

On top of the world... well Mt Kaputar walk, it's cold up here!

Aaaah, the Warrumbungles, so close to home (Sydney), but one of our all time favourites. The sight of primeval volcanic craters and plugs has a rather sophisticated elegance. The vision is grand and unspoilt, unlike flat Australia which has mostly been turned into grazing land. Iconic Australian’s must also agree this is a top spot because our camp was surrounded by kangaroos, emus and a koala perched in a tree!

Our neighbour, Warrumbungles

Knowing we would soon be back in city life, we decided to ‘do the big one’- the Grand High Tops walk. Much of the path is now paved, but oh so steep and with over 1,000 steps to the heady heights, it is still a challenge. However, the reward was something we could have soaked up all day. Looking down on the famous ‘Breadknife’ and across sweeping valleys we picnicked savouring the view as much as our food.

Lunch with a view, looking down on the Breadknife

Camped by a babbling brook, we spent our last evening here enjoying a tipple and reflecting on the last 23 months. Our ‘holiday’ was ending on a high note, even the kangaroos putting on a show for us. Tipping out of Mum’s warm pouch was the youngest joey we have ever seen. With only a whisper of fur, the fragile infant looked so vulnerable as Mum struggled to get him back home (were is the camera when you need it!).

The memories will last...

The rain came out, the kangaroos persisted in staying out and soon our house with a view was in a white out. As the mist enveloped the ranges, it was time to leave. Mudgee was to be our last stop- we needed some gifts and Mudgee Wineries were getting our cash. The rain continued, so our sojourn was short, but Mudgee is somewhere we would like to come back too........ along with other favourites from our 700 days ‘on the wallaby’.

Green Fields

2010-07-24T00:59:00.001-07:00

Before our eyes the trees appeared taller, more dense and the cows were no longer the drought resistant Brahman. Our approach into Charleville brought more familiar surroundings and cattle. We were still in the outback, but with recent plentiful rains, the grounds were rich in feed. However, that didn’t stop the horses eating everything in sight in the Station cum Caravan Park where we resided. Goodbye herbs.....

Horses in the Caravan Park, Charleville

Charleville proved a great spot to spend a while. On the main route north and west, it has capitalised on a captive tourist market. The ‘Cosmos Centre’ was all things astronomy, but actually very engaging.

Holding a meteorite at the Cosmos Centre, Charleville

It was here I discovered that in about 50 year’s time, I shall move to Mars. You see on Mars, I am currently only 22 years old and weigh a mere 20 kilos. KFC and chocolate would be a necessity.....

The most bizarre feature of Charleville was the ‘Rain Making Guns’. 1902 saw Queensland in the grip of drought, so it was decided to trial these guns that had been developed to break up hail over the vineyards of Italy. The vertical guns were placed strategically around Charleville, their barrels pointing up to the sky. Charged with gun powder, it was hoped the explosion would change atmospheric pressure and produce rain. Alas they didn’t work, however the drought soon broke...... so maybe they did......

Rain making guns, Charleville

The cutest feature of Charleville would have to be the Bilby’s. This endangered native rabbit like bandicoot is bred here and part of a release program. They are very cute and have very big ears and a black and tail!

Yes, we did also see real ones......

I shan’t bore you will all the sights and scenes we saw, but Charleville is a great little outback town! I can’t say the same for Cunnamulla though, but it did provide a respite for the night. I don’t think we will ever get used to country towns. The clock strikes Midday on Saturday and all the shops shut until Monday morning. Walking down the main street has a ghost town feel and there is no bread or milk to be had.

On the road again, the inevitable happened. We crossed the border. We were now in NSW, our home state.

Homeward bound....

We are excited to be heading home after nearly two years on the road, but our hearts flutter with a touch of sadness that our gypsy life will soon be no longer. It was Sunday when we crept into Bourke, so of course the town was shut up tight. Although an inviting town, the shutters bordering up the shop windows until opening time, never let us forget the riots that have taken place here.

Main street, Bourke. The shutters are down when the shops are closed.

Remote, yet familiar Bourke has attracted those escaping the big city lights, the most well known being Fred Hollows. Many local aboriginals can now see because of Fred and it was his wish to be buried on the claypans were he camped. Infact, he is buried in the cemetery, a huge slab of granite marking his resting place. Walking to his shrine the soft earth had us sinking into the ground. I had visions of falling down into an ancient grave, but we managed to negotiate our way, allowing the pioneers of the past to rest in peace.

Fred Hollows grave and memorial, Bourke

The Darling River once a maritime thoroughfare, allowed Bourke to prosper. The banks are lined with all manner of memorials, including the Historic Crossley Engine. Although not a machine buff, the hypnotic sound of the engine and the many parts moving in time to the rhythmic beat had me in a trance. The engine was originally used to generate electricity for Sydney (1923 to 1938), but ended its working days as a water pump.

The Crossley Engine, Bourke

Gundabooka National Park, 50 kilometres south of Bourke had us donning our walking gear. Rain has really brought the outback to life. The park was green (even the rocks had moss on them), and the animals were prolific. Although, I don’t think the pussy cats were supposed to be here...... With a strong aboriginal heritage we walked to the rock art site. The artwork here was some of the best examples we have come across.

Rock Art, Gundabooka National Park

Cotton is one of the main industries of this region and with freshly ploughed fields, the emus made the most of it. Never before have we seen emus in such large numbers. An estimate of two hundred of these prehistoric birds lined the roadside, oblivious to the passing traffic.

Hello ladies....

We were headed towards Lightening Ridge, stopping off in Walgett for some lunch. This is a sad town, its doors barricaded against attack. An aboriginal history of forced removal from their land meant life was hard after the ‘invasion’. It was not until the early 1960’s that aboriginals were allowed to enter town. With such a recent volatile arrangement it is no wonder the wounds linger.

Yet, Lightening Ridge is a stark contrast. A friendly bunch of eclectic people have made the ‘Ridge’ home. The actual population is unknown with many living a transient life in camps on their leases. I was last here in 1981. Nothing much has changed except for the expansion of eccentric sights. Amigo had just started building his ‘castle’ back then, but now it resembles the Roman ruins it was based upon, complete with trap doors and dungeons!

Amigo's Castle, Lightning Ridge

Further up the road is the Astronomers Monument. A temple to the world’s astronomers (it also looks like a castle), it was built by a Polish man named Alex. It is all rather bizarre, but given that Alex was wrongfully imprisoned for murder, before a full pardon 8 years later, it begins to make sense.

Astronomers Monument (very kooky inside..)

As you most probably know, opal is the drawcard here. The famous black opal found nowhere else in the world. Many have made their fortune (10 fold), but many have not. Unlucky in opal, one enterprising miner turned his mine into an underground art oasis. Over the past 12 years he has carved and painted every inch to create a visual feast. With a bit of creativity you can make a go of anything out here.......

Once a mine, now an art oasis...

Bordering the town on all sides are mines, mullock heaps and rusting equipment. The entire place looks like a movie set and we were fortunate to get an insight into life out here. A lifelong friend of my brothers having escaped Sydney, invited us out to his camp. Negotiating old shafts we found our way to ‘Bedrock’. There is no town power or water out here, but with a bit of ingenuity (and a generator) life is not all that uncomfortable.

Friends at their mining camp, Lightning Ridge

We learnt the town secrets, but secrets they shall remain.

This side of the Black Stump

2010-07-14T20:51:00.001-07:00

In the heart of Matilda country, where Banjo Paterson wrote Waltzing Matilda and performed it for the first time was one of our most liked spots- Winton. In fact, Winton has many claims to fame, not least it is where the first board meeting was held for Qantas in 1921. However, it became world famous for Australia’s largest dinosaur discovered in 1999 and the only recorded evidence of a dinosaur stampede nearby.

Part of Arno's Wall. He has used anything and everything in its construction, Winton

Our visit to the region co-incided with the coldest day ever recorded for this part of Queensland. A chilly 11 degrees. After nearly two years of chasing the sun and experiencing 31 the day prior it was a rude shock. Five mils of rain had dropped from the icy heavens overnight, but we donned all of our winter clothes and made the 110 kilometre trek to Lark Quarry and the world famous dinosaur stampede site.
Now as you will agree 5 mils of rain is not enough to make mention of in most parts of Australia, but ‘out here’ where a thin layer of top soil covers clay it is enough to close roads. The dirt road seemed to show no ill effects and with no ‘road closed’ sign up, off we went. It was infact smooth sailing until the last kilometre. Coming down a small rise, the road was a mud bath. Our tyres and wheel arches soon became caked in the stuff. It was akin to driving on a slippery road with bald tyres. We no longer had control of the vehicle and we could only watch as we slid closer to a pole. Fortunately we started to slide in the other direction just before impact. Limping into the carpark, it was evident that everyone else had lost control at the same spot as us. Collectively we pondered how we were going to make it back out.

Scraping off mud, notice the 'new' colour of our car

Yet, we were here to see evidence of a dinosaur stampede, so huddled against the cold we set of on foot. Now protected by a building, over 3,300 fossilised dinosaur footprints from 95 million years ago are as identifiable as if made yesterday. Prints of Mum’s, Dad’s and the kids can be made out as they ran, fearing for their life, from attack by a hungry Carnosaur (he was big).

Standing next to a Carnosaur print, with many more on show

Ever so slowly we made our way safely home. Home, a Caravan Park in Winton, provided entertainment of an evening. Graham Rodgers, apparently a well known country singer, was not half bad. Having been a writer for ‘Slim’, we actually knew some of the repertoire. He was a real entertainer, and transformed ‘I’d love to have a beer with Duncan’. While his wife asked names of the audience, he quickly thought of a rhyme. Of course I was picked. I shall leave you in suspense as to what rhymes with Leis....... A bush comedian/ poet engaged us next and the many laughs seemed to dull the cold.

Graham Rodgers singing 'I'd love to have a beer with Leisa'

Experiencing the land first hand brings respect. Your days are planned by the weather, which can be devastating or rewarding with even the slightest change. It is a primeval feeling living with the land. Through all the heat, flies, dust and mud we still love it. A total sense of freedom, contentment and wonder prevails. Luckily we have been diagnosed. We are Psycho- Ceramic, i.e. Crack Pots! (insert laughter here). Alas, everyone is ‘mad’ out here, even the water. Still receiving our life giving sustenance from the Great Artesian Basin, water coolers are installed not water heaters. At a temperature of 80 degrees there is no short supply of hot water. Cold on the other hand......

Our three days of winter over (ah back to the balmy days we are accustomed), we set off for Longreach. A friendly little town, the homes looked like workers cottages although lovingly maintained.

The town itself was smaller than expected, but the tourist attractions big. Although Qantas started in Winton, headquarters were soon moved to Longreach (until the Government took over and moved Qantas to Brisbane in the 1930’s). The original Qantas hangar still stands, as does a replica of the first plane and 747.

707 Qantas plane- check out the steps vehicle too

We spent a day exploring the Stockman’s Hall of Fame, a five gallery museum of our pioneering history. The history behind our explorers, stock workers, pastoralists and Aborigines made our trip seem like a walk in the park.

Stockman's Hall of Fame, Longreach

We had been trying to get to Birdsville ever since Mt Isa, and with the recent rains the roads were still closed. Therefore, we continued south, were the nights got cooler, but the days remained warm. The first town encountered past Longreach was Ilfracombe, or as we dubbed it Il’free’combe.

General Store, Ilfracombe

Pioneer displays, heritage homes and sheep grazing memorabilia were all free to peruse. Town pride was evident with the original late 1800’s Post Office, General Store and pub still in use and in good repair.

Boundary Riders lonely hut (and sheep), Ilfracombe

Continuing along the Matilda Highway, we reached Barcaldine and home for the night. Barcaldine is famous for the Tree of Knowledge. This Eucalyptus was the central meeting place for the Shearer’s Strike of 1891 and this ‘disturbance’ led to the formation of the Australian Labour Party. The tree was poisoned a few years ago, so a rather large, well you could say gigantic cube has been placed on the site of the tree. (The cube recreates the size of the tree canopy).

Restored Tree of Knowledge, inside the 'cube', Barcaldine

Free camping in a bush setting a kilometre past town, we enjoyed the serenity. That was until we discovered the ticks. We pulled about 20 off us before the night was over and we were glad to get out of there!

Kangas at our campsite, maybe they brought the ticks!

Ticks plucked, we were headed for the ‘this side of the Black Stump’. Blackall, is where the original Black Stump can be found (well a fossilised stump in its place, the original burnt to the ground).

The Black Stump, Blackall

Surveyors placed their theodolites on the stump for latitude and longitude observations, as it gave more stability than a set of legs. Mapping of Queensland was done from here and at that time in 1887, country west of Blackall was ‘beyond the Black Stump’.

Digging for Dinosaurs

2010-07-08T16:18:00.000-07:00

The Barkley Highway cuts across this sunburnt continent, the towns are sparse, the countryside even more so. Yet all roads lead somewhere and at the end of a long days drive we arrived at Mt Isa. The ‘Isa’ is probably the biggest town here in the outback, but the dust and authentic characters are anything but citified. It is seriously dry and dusty out here. Our noses battled this foreign matter and we found ourselves constantly sneezing, as if we had a heavy cold.

Mt Isa

Mining is what makes Mt Isa, and with three men to every one female, it is a ladies paradise. That is if you are into big burly miners. The land around Isa is hilly and atop one such mound a 360 degree view provided a glimpse into the mines and the city as a whole.

Signpost at Mt Isa Lookout

With materials not easily available in the outback, early pioneers had to make do. The ‘tent house’ is a prime example of this ingenuity. Infact, many tent houses were erected in Isa, however only one remains. Picking the front door key up off a table outside the motel next door (see we really aren’t in a city), we let ourselves into this house. Canvas walls, covered by a tin roof and perched upon a wooden floor provided all the comforts of home. Furnished as if still occupied we felt we were intruding into someone’s current home. Pictures of loved ones sat on beside tables, cupboards were full of everyday items and the bookshelf contained some risqué tomes for the era.

Inside the Tent House, Mt Isa

The Tent House

Thankfully Isa has a lake nearby. Lake Moondarra provides an escape from the dust and is rather well maintained with peacocks and chooks roaming its shores and plenty of barra in its waters.

With our fill of big city adventures, we headed east on the Barkley. Thicker scrub soon dominated the countryside, the Selwyn Ranges providing an undulating change of scenery. The land no longer looked so desolate, however the next town sure did.
Mary Kathleen, as the town is known, is a mere 56 kilometres from Mt Isa, but a lifetime away. Established in the 1950’s, the mining town had every conceivable need, including cinema, sports fields, swimming pool, shops etc.

Standing in the Supermarket, Mary Kathleen

However, in late 1983 the contract for uranium oxide was filled and it was decided to close the mine and disband the town. In 1984 the township was auctioned off. All that remains of this ghost town are the building foundations and walkways. The bitumen roads are slowly being reclaimed by nature, but it is eerie to park in the shopping centre carpark, complete with curb and guttering, and walk through what was until relatively recently a bustling town centre.

Parked in the shopping centre carpark, footpath can be seen at Mary Kathleen

Off to find a ‘real’ town for the night, it was back on the Barkley. Some of the longest road trains we have come across shared our path. Ten car lengths long, these beasts still enthuses a sense of awe in us. How do they drive them on these outback roads?

Look how long the road train is!

We settled into Cloncurry, or the ‘Curry’ as it is known and took some time to chill. There is not much to the town, but a browse through the local museum provided some photos of Mary Kathleen in its heyday, and the famous Burke and Wills water bottle. The town was named by Burke after his cousin Lady Elizabeth Cloncurry of County Galway in Ireland. Back in Ireland in the family home, the water bottle was rediscovered by a maid clearing the cellar for the arrival of electricity in the 1930’s.

The Burke & Wills water bottle

A change of direction had us on the Flinders Highway, the red rock ranges giving way to a flat plain land. You have no doubt heard of ‘Big Sky Country’ well out here it is ‘Massive Sky Country’. Far in the distance road trains look like caterpillars crawling across this red land and as the blue sky meets the horizon you can actually see the curvature of the earth.

Flat, barren and dry. There is no other way to describe life out here where you can count the blades of grass on one hand. However, pulling into the township of Julia Creek, it became apparent how cattle graziers make a living out here. We were standing on the centre of the Great Artesian Basin. The basin underlies a fifth of Australia and holds enough water to fill Sydney Harbour 130,000 times. The water travels at a rate of a metre a year from Cape York in the north. Extending to Dubbo in the south, dating has determined that water down there is millions of years old. With such slow progress it begs the question will it run out one day?

The Minmi dinosaur skeleton, Richmond

Having made use of this clean pure water, we headed for our main destination out here- the fossil capital of Australia. The star attractions of Richmond are the Kronosaurus (a marine dinosaur) and Australia’s best preserved dinosaur skeleton- the 100 million year old Minmi.

The mighty Kronosaurus, Richmond

With so many fossil remains out here, the council has designated public fossicking areas. Armed with hammers and chisels we set off to find our own beast. Nearly everyone who fossicks finds something, and we came away with some Belemnites and Bivalves. Maybe not as exciting as a dinosaur bone, but they did feed on these carnivorous marine animals.

Moon rocks, a natural phenomenon in Richmond

Fossicking for dinosaur relics. We did find some!

Sticking on the dinosaur trail we landed in Hughenden. Like people, there are some towns that you just don’t gel with. Although Hughenden also has a fascinating prehistoric past, and a life sized replica of a Muttaburrasaurus, it was not one of our favourite destinations.

A life size Muttaburrasaurus, Hughenden

However, Porcupine Gorge, 60 kilometres north sure was. Looking across the Savannah Plains you would never guess that the creek has carved a very impressive canyon. Sided by hundreds of million year old multi coloured rocks, the vertical drop measures 100 metres into the earth.

Porcupine Gorge

We were left with the impression of a large knife having sliced open this land, its jagged blade revealing the layers from times of inland seas, rainforests and droughts.

Sunny Savannah

2010-06-28T16:11:00.000-07:00

Cairns was becoming very familiar to us, almost like home, so it was time to move on. Time to say goodbye to the Wet Tropics. Infact, a stop at The Boulders- massive granite outcrops bordering a cascading stream, was our last foray into the tropical forests of this region.

The Boulders, a river cascades past

For the last time it was up and over the mountain range, as we began our journey across the Savannah Way. The Savannah Way extends from Cairns to Broome over in Western Australia, some 3,500 kilometres. Whilst only driving as far as the Northern Territory border, we still experienced many facets of climate and vegetation.

Ravenshoe provided us with rainforest and rolling mountain pastures, and claims to be Queensland’s highest town. It is a small town, but also the last stop for essential supplies. Just past Ravenshoe is Australia’s widest falls- Millstream Falls. Their true beauty is only seen in the wet season; however it was a refreshing scene before heading on to the edge of the inland Savannah region.

Our camp on the Archer River

After a night camping on the bank of the Archer River, we were keen to ‘take to the waters’ of the Innot Hot Springs a few kilometres down the road. Thermal pools awaited us to soothe away any aches and pains. $7 bought us entry into the pools and we had to stifle the giggles. The Innot Hot Springs are in need of some ‘sprucing’ up. The grounds and pools have certainly had their heyday, but still we did enjoy a relaxing soak.

Innot Hot Springs

Refreshed we once again hit the bitumen. The trees thinned out becoming a thick scrub with the odd bottle tree to break up the horizon. The scenery stretched on for miles without change, so a detour to Undara and the world’s longest lava tubes was in order.

A mere 190,000 years ago (very recent in geological terms), Mother Nature set about creating this rare volcanic phenomena. A single volcano erupted and caused the lava to flow over 160 kilometres. As the air cooled the surface, the lava continued to flow beneath the surface in a ‘tube’. Once the eruption stopped the lava flowed out of the tubes, leaving the hollow tunnels hidden underneath.

Inside the Undara Lava Tube

In parts the roof has collapsed, creating a cool oasis for a semi rainforest to grow- such a contrast to the stark savannah landscape. We walked through 3 of the lava tubes, imagining how at a temperature of 1200 degrees everything in its path would have been destroyed.

Old linesman's hut, discovered on walk at Undara

The campsite at Undara was one of the best bush sites we have stayed at. Nothing beats the smell of a campfire while gazing at the stars, and I didn’t mind the cute Bettongs that hopped over to us each night in hope of a feed.

But after a couple of days, we bid farewell to the Bettongs. We were heading further inland, the road becoming a mere thin strip of bitumen down the centre. To pass an oncoming car we both had to pull off the bitumen strip and travel on the gravel verge. With the threat of weeds invading this remote land, we drove through the ‘washdown’ at Mt Surprise. Clean at last. Well for the few seconds before the dust settled on us again.

Driving through the washdown, Mt Surprise

The towns are sparse, but with not much else to see we made use of all the ‘attractions’. Mining was once big out here, the plentiful gold and minerals now all but gone. Rusted relics of this boom time dot the land. Some 20 kilometres past Georgetown was a chimney, a lone relic from the gold crushing plant built by Cornish miners. The dusty land gives no clues to its former wealth however the nearby dam was rich in bird life, another oasis in this dry land.

Relics of a Gold Rush past, near Georgetown

Croydon. Located in the heart of the Gulf Savannah country and steeped in history. Once the fourth largest town in Queensland the population has dwindled to 250, however the history is alive and well preserved. There are still untapped gold reserves here, located underneath the historic buildings of the court house, jail and police station. During the gold rush the roads were lit by gas lamps, and these still line the sandstone kerbed streets.

Historic precinct, Croydon. Note gas lamps.

With a large population of Chinese settlers (as most goldfields had), archaeologists have discovered the remains of Chinatown from the late 1800’s. Stories of individuals line the walk around the site and remains of a Joss House.

Remains of the Joss House, Chinatown, Croydon

Racist laws are the reason that Australia’s pioneering history does not have more of a Chinese influence. They were restricted and controlled but were better than the Europeans at growing market gardens in these harsh, dry conditions. Funny how racism was ‘forgotten’ when they could provide a valuable resource.

Australia once had the majority of its population living in country areas, the cities home to a far less number. How times have changed. These once bustling towns, with numerous pubs and dwellings have become a thing of the past.

If only the market gardeners still thrived out here! We were becoming low on supplies and the next town of Normanton sold wilted vegetables at exorbitant prices. There are no real ‘supermarkets’ out here, and food deliveries are weekly, so we had to make do with what we had. Again Normanton was once a bustling town (during the Croydon gold rush days, it was the port), and the buildings stand testament to the wealth once here. There is also a monument to the biggest saltwater crocodile ever shot. The life size 8.6 metre replica of ‘Krys’ has been authenticated by the Guinness Book of Records, but surely there are not crocs this big out here?

Krys the crocodile

Normanton Railway Station is home to the ‘Gulflander’. Every Wednesday at 8.30am this historic train travels on the original railway to Croydon. Built in 1889 the station is still in mint condition. There were visions that the Gulf would be the gateway to the Asian markets and this railway could be linked to others in Australia. Alas, this was not to be and the train has not made a profit since the 1920’s.

Normanton Railway Station

Just 79 kilometres from Normanton is Karumba, on the Gulf of Carpentaria. There is nothing more to Karumba than being a remote fishing village. But travellers flock here to watch the sunset melt into the Arafura Sea and fish. The town has only a few shops, but 3 Caravan Parks, and as we were to discover they were all full to the brim. Grey Nomads escaping the chilly winters ‘down south’ come to this 30 degree day paradise for months at a time. We were squeezed onto patch of grass for a night and witnessed the community that forms each year. Talk of fish was all that could be heard, but signs around the park directed you to who could cut your hair, provide a massage, teach art and crafts, or join a fitness class, amongst other necessities. Everyone seemed to provide a service, ensuring the comforts of home were not missed in this no frills town.

Karumba, trailers and boats everywhere

Not being fisherpeople, we only stayed one night, but did manage to purchase some King Salmon at a ‘cheap’ price. Some of the best fish we have tasted. For us it was a journey west on the Matilda Highway. I say highway, but this stretch of road is dirt and flat. The yellow Spinifex of the Savannah out here is contrasted by red rocks and a brilliant blue sky. Water appears in patches creating wetlands that are a haven to all manner of birds, including some very tall brolgas. There was plenty of road kill out here, ensuring the ever present hawks and wedge tailed eagles circled above us.

Brolgas on the Savannah Way

Isolated and dusty, the stretch of road towards the Northern Territory border seemed endless. This is the country that finally claimed Burke and Wills in 1861, and it is easy to see why.
Yipee, a tree! The desolate Savannah country

However, we finally made it to Burketown. European settlers were no match for this outback place and died in droves, but for us it had a Caravan Park, Service Station and pub. It took us 2 minutes to walk the town, so we decided to have a beer at the 130 year old pub and meet some of the locals.

The Burketown Hotel

As we walked inside the scene before us was confronting. About 50 aboriginal men were enjoying a beer, the sounds of their native tongue foreign to our ears. There were no white people in sight. They seemed friendly enough, so we bought a cool ale and sat down. It wasn’t long before we were approached and the gathering explained. We had arrived in Burketown on the day the Federal Court had sat in town to hand back the land to the local Doomadgee peoples.

We made new friends and listened to stories of being taken away from their mother, only to finally come back. But back to what. No land, no culture and introduced to the white man drink. It is a story replicated among many aboriginal communities that we have come across. They blame the white man for introducing alcohol, which brought about the destruction of all that they knew and the proud peoples they once were. Alcohol is a drug and not one easily given up.

However, they were proud to have their land returned. We were welcomed, but once again headed west to Queensland’s most scenic national park- Lawn Hill. Situated in remote North West Queensland, the park is made up of lush gorge country, rich red sandstone ranges and world heritage fossils. The spring water that feeds the gorge, and flows all year round, gives life to an otherwise parched landscape. Rather than walk the gorge we opted to canoe the 6 kilometres.

Canoeing into the Gorge, Lawn Hill

As we paddled into its heart, we were engulfed by the magnitude of the gorge walls towering above us. Freshwater crocodiles live in the emerald waters, but we did not expect to see any. However, a loud snap, snap had us both looking into the Pandanus lining the bank. There sat a large ‘freshie’ devouring a catch. There is not much protection in a small canoe, but this species of croc is more scared of us than we are of them. However, we were soon to encounter another- a rather large male, who hissed at us in anger. We managed to paddle fast away from that one. Still it did not deter us from a swim later, it is hot up here!

He started to get a little angry with us....

Riversleigh, 50 kilometres from Lawn Hill, but still part of the national park is home to 25 million year old fossils. Many species of birds and animals have been uncovered here and fossicking still continues. Once underwater, the limestone of this area has kept these relics preserved. We only had access to a small part of this World Heritage Area, but the ‘Fossil Trail’ took us past skeletons of crocodiles, turtles and ‘Big Bird’, undisturbed since the Oligocene period.

Leg fossil of 'Big Bird'

With supplies running low, we made the very long and very dusty drive to Mt Isa, with only Brahman Cross cattle providing entertainment to look at.
They really are fine specimens....

Sunny smiles

2010-06-15T20:17:00.001-07:00

Being fully immersed in the Atherton Tablelands, we grew an immense fondness for the region. We may even find us retiring here one day. The town of Atherton had been our home for the best part of a week, so we headed for the shore of Lake Tinaroo to set up camp. We had planned on only staying one night, but we couldn’t tear ourselves away. By day we watched the ducks waddling closer and closer as their confidence grew. In the afternoon when they headed back into the water, the sun shimmered creating a fairy light display across the ripples.

Our campsite, Lake Tinaroo

Below: Kooka made a home on our bonnet

A glass of red in hand saw us sitting around our campfire of an evening, watching the stars twinkle above us. All sound a little poetic? Maybe, but it truly was the most relaxing place we have ever camped. We had an enormous vista spread out in front of us- to the right a thick pine forest, making us feel we were in Canada and to the left quaint farmland, reminiscent of England. Only the balmy days made us feel we were in Australia.

With friends soon to join us in Port Douglas, we headed north. Having stayed at the Mt Molloy free camp previously we made a beeline for the evening. We stopped next to an inconspicuous van. Later a craggy looking man emerged. Our new friend was an alcoholic, albeit harmless. As we assisted him in opening tins of food for dinner, the conversation grew. It was an eye opening experience to learn how from an innocent baby born in Essex, England, grew a man addicted to the demon drink. He yearns for a ‘princess’ to keep him on the straight and narrow, but for now from sun up to sun down it is a cheap home brew that keeps him going. I never want to become an alcoholic.

Lookout on the way to Port Douglas

Thoughts of sadness were soon washed away with the arrival of Sammi and Michael, who greeted us with big smiles at Cairns airport. Winding along the coast north of Cairns, with the Coral Sea as the backdrop, we soon arrived at Port Douglas. ‘Port’ has a holiday feel, and we were all soon relaxed and in the mood for adventure.
After a brief visit to the markets, were we snapped up a bargain or two, we headed for the mist topped mountains beyond Port Douglas, this scenic drive north leading us to the Daintree.

Crossing the suspension bridge, Mossman Gorge

Taking the ferry across the Daintree River, we were soon twisting and turning through thick rainforest and coastal mangroves to Cape Tribulation.

Sammi and Leisa, Cape Tribulation

This part of the Daintree is so different from the rainforest of Mossman Gorge, with its huge granite boulders and clear swimming holes. We searched for a Cassowary, but alas the bird is still elusive to us. However, we did manage to spot a few crocodiles while on a Daintree River Cruise.

Baby crocodile, soooo cute

But, my favourite was the micro bat that hung upside down in a tree overlooking the water. He was so cute and furry with his little ears sticking out.

Cute little bat, hiding in the tree

We were enjoying warm days, although the weather forecast indicated 30 knot winds out to sea. However, we all decided to brave the boat to snorkel over the Great Barrier Reef. We found the ride to the outer reef rough, but not as bad as expected. I have been on the Manly Ferry in much worse waters. We snorkelled at three sites on the outer reef, each full of life. Immersed in this underwater world an hour went by quickly. Gliding amongst the carnival of corals, we were entertained by brightly coloured fish and some massive specimens of the ‘ugly’ kind. At the last site as we swam over deep coral beds, we also encountered reef sharks and a turtle. Pruned from a day in the water we headed home while talking to the onboard Marine Biologist about the future of the Great Barrier Reef.

End of a hard days snorkeling.....

Alas, the time with our friends was coming to a close. We spent our last day viewing the sights around Cairns, before bidding Sammi and Michael farewell at the airport.

Rest and recreation

2010-06-04T18:41:00.000-07:00

It is funny how after some holidays, you need a holiday, well some recovery time at least. That is how we found ourselves after our trip to the Tip. We were back in Cooktown, but found it a very nice place for some R&R. We spent a further 5 days in Cooktown, but secretly we could have stayed longer to explore more of this area.

The hot humid days of the north were gone, but the balmy weather still had us in search of a cooling swim. Trevanthan Falls was a hidden treasure, even some recent locals not knowing about its existence. After a few kilometres on a dirt track, we then walked about 50 metres to a WOW sight.

Trevanthan Falls

You can actually hear the falls long before you see them. I was a bit ho-hum about seeing more falls, having now seen so many, but they really were picturesque. Further on from the falls were wetlands, full of lotus lilies in bloom.

After a couple of days ‘rest’ Dave was keen to tackle the Bloomfield Track to Cape Tribulation. This road is unsealed and 4WD only. I had heard it was steep, but was not prepared for how horrendous the road was. OK, it wasn’t that bad, but I had had enough of dirt roads and as the engine groaned under the strain of lugging us up the VERY steep sections, so did I. It took us two hours to reach Cape Tribulation (110 kilometres), so named by Cook because ‘here began all his troubles’.

The Bloomfield Track

It is true that this is where the ‘rainforest meets the reef’. Exploring the tropical rainforest, we could hear the gentle lapping of the ocean on the beach shore. However, the thick jungle did not let us see what we could hear. The forest contains an amazing array of palms, amongst other plants, but it was a sad reminder. Not many palm forests are left, having been cut down for grazing land.

Tropical Palm Forest, Cape Tribulation

Cape Tribulation is a pretty spot, and sitting at the Kulki lookout, gazing out over the ultimate tropical beach, my 4WD angst was all forgotten.

Cape Tribulation

We still had to drive the two hours back home, but a stop at the infamous Lion’s Den Hotel, made the return journey all worthwhile. A slab timber bar and signature covered corrugated iron walls line this pub. The signatures that adorn the walls stem from a tradition begun in the early mining days.

The Infamous Lions Den Hotel

When security of personal belongings was limited, miners began leaving their pay packets and writing how much they had spent on the wall. The amount was written and recorded for their return visit. Today, it is a quirky pub to sit in after conquering the Bloomfield Track.

Our time in Cooktown came to a close, and we were sad to leave this place. We always had a smile on our faces here- especially every afternoon as the ‘Seafood Man’ drove around the caravan park in his van. We knew he was coming as the strains of ‘I’d like to be, under the sea, in an octopus’ garden’ rang from a loudspeaker. For some reason this would make me dance. His seafood was very good too and so cheap compared to Sydney prices.

Leaving the frontier land and heading over the range, we stopped at a free camp spot at Mt Molloy. It is much cooler here and it was nice to snuggle with a doona once more. Awake bright and early we took in the sights of the Mareeba Wetlands before arriving at Atherton.

Gouldian Finch, Mareeba Wetlands

The Atherton Tablelands are a nice place to chill out. Rich farming areas, ancient volcanic lakes and waterfalls are in abundance. The farms were not always profitable, due to poor soil fertility, however in the late 1950’s Lake Tinaroo was formed. Today a 28 kilometre forest drive takes you around the lake in the Danbulla National Park and State Forest. We began the drive at the Platypus Rock Lookout, however like so many other National Park lookouts we have come across, the view was overgrown with trees. It really is a pity that nothing can be cut down in a National Park.

Lake Tinaroo

The forest is made up of thick pine plantations and Wet Tropics Rainforest. We enjoyed some easy walks before having a picnic lunch at ‘The Chimneys’. Following WWI land in this area was offered to returned soldiers for farming. Some battled to make a living and eventually just abandoned their homes, others were moved when the State Forest was proclaimed. All that is left of this house, vacated 55 years earlier are the chimneys. It is eerie to think that in only this short span of time nature has completely consumed all evidence of a man made building.

The Chimneys- once a house was here...

Our final stop for the day was Lake Eacham, one of the prettiest we have seen, after having viewed the Cathedral Fig Tree. Estimated at 500 years old, with a canopy the size of 2 Olympic Pools, the 'Cathedral' is the most impressive strangler fig tree we have seen.

Cathedral Fig Tree

The countryside in the Tablelands really is some of the prettiest on offer. The country roads meander through rolling green hills, supplemented by pockets of rainforest between the dairy farms. We had taken ourselves on a ‘Sunday drive’ to Malanda and the start of the ‘Waterfall Way’.

Milla Milla Falls

In all we stopped at 6 waterfalls, all within easy walking distance. Some had been landscaped to form a pool at the base of the falls (very 1950’s looking) and some have been left natural.

Meandering country roads in the Atherton Tablelands

With an abundance of crystal clear water and cascading streams, it is no wonder Nerada Tea has been so successful. We did stop in at the plantation, learnt the history of tea and of course bought some samples. Our day finished with a visit to the Mungalli Creek Bio-Dynamic Diary, because we really had been enjoying their non-homogenised milk (it still has the cream on top), however as it was a Sunday they were a little too busy to enjoy sampling their wares.

Tea! The Nerada Tea Farm

Tip Top

2010-05-28T16:12:00.000-07:00

After a week of domestics and R&R at Australia’s ‘Best Caravan Park’, it was time to leave Cairns. Mind you, it was not just a week of playing ‘at home’ on the water slides, splashing about in the myriad of pools and attending the open air cinema, we took in some cultural sights of Cairns too.

Big kid on the little waterslide....

The Cairns Botanic Gardens were an unexpected delight, filled with big boisterous tropical plants. Jumbo sized leaves blocked out the sun, creating a pleasant way to spend a hot afternoon.

Cairn's Botanic Gardens

Next door to the gardens is the Tank Art Centre. Used to store fuel during WWII, these massive storage tanks are now used to house an art gallery and artists retreat. The works on display could have been painted by a two year old, but the islander artefacts were engrossing.

Tank Art Gallery

Our home packed up, it was time to head up the mountain range, taking the inland road to Cooktown. Leaving the Wet Tropics behind we hit Savannah country. The air was drier and cooler, the tropical plants replaced with gum trees, yellow grasses and intermittently spaced with lily filled wetlands. We were back to the familiar countryside we love, the typical Aussie bush, only with green hills dotting the background. However, all too soon again, we had to head back towards the coast and our destination. The approach into Cooktown is nothing to write home about, until you reach Black Mountain.

Black Mountain, near Cooktown

This dark, brooding mountain is formed by giant piles of black granite boulders, with no real plant life covering its sides. During times of extreme heat (and boy is it hot up here), the boulders explode. The noise is enough to frighten the toughest traveller. Pilots have also encountered electronic disruptions as they fly over, making Black Mountain one eerie, but awesome place.

Cooktown, situated on the Lower Cape York is a surprising, neat and tidy, yet historical town. An oasis after travelling over 300 kilometres through the outback bush. The main street is dotted with well maintained original buildings from its humble beginnings in the late 1800’s, interspersed with new sympathetic designed shops and services. The foreshore is lined with a grassy park containing more monuments than anywhere else in Australia.

Captain James Cook

I guess no wonder though- Cooktown is one of Australia’s most historically significant towns. It was here in 1770, that Lieutenant James Cook beached his ship, the Endeavour.

Atop Grassy Hill, were Cook climbed several times to view the surrounding reefs in order to navigate a safe passage out once his ship was repaired, is the site of the first kangaroo sighting by a European. This ‘creature’ was described as a greyhound like animal, which seems to bounce. I can see the similarity. Today the view from Grassy Hill has not changed much.

The view from Grassy Hill

Overlooking the twists and turns of the Endeavour River and Mount Cook the only difference is the town nestled in between.

The road into Cooktown from Cairns was only tared a few years back. The region is unspoilt, however even the Queen has been here! Back in 1970 she arrived to officially open the Captain Cook Museum. Steps made in order for the Queen to safely disembark her ship still remain jutting out from the foreshore, now leading to nowhere.

The Queen's Steps

The Museum is housed in the old Convent of the Sisters of Mercy. From the tiny Nun’s quarters, located on the second floor, French doors open onto a large balcony. A breeze would have provided sweet relief from the oppressive heat, but the view would have put their vows of poverty into question. Carving its way through the hills, thick with dark green vegetation the Endeavour River shimmers in the sunlight, its banks a creamy coloured sand. The Museum is well worth a visit- a monument to the history of the indigenous peoples as well as Cook and the gold rush days of the 1870’s. Discarded by Cook in order to lighten the load of his damaged ship, the original anchor and a canon were salvaged from the Barrier Reef and are now housed along with excerpts from his diaries.

Original anchor from the Endeavour

The Great Diving Range, familiar to us from home, carves its path all the way to the tip of Australia. We are now in the dry season, yet the sun is bold, no mistaking it is out. The heat is fierce, yet we do not sweat as much, due to the lower humidity. However, it is still energy zapping, especially after a bushwalk. Now making our way to the ‘tip of Australia’ we are travelling through hostile countryside and very ‘small’ townships. Laura, the first settlement since leaving Cooktown, is no more than a roadhouse, pub, general store and a couple of houses. There is really nothing out here, but that is why we feel so serene.

Old Police Lockup, Laura. Once held 18 men...

The ‘nothingness’ has an air of no expectations and with no phone reception; it is just a blanket of calm. Aboriginals have lived, and continue to live, in this area for thousands of years. Rock art is dominant in the hills and we were fortunate to discover some near Laura, at the Quinkan Rock Art site. Where water and food is plentiful, the art is of a superior quality. Less time in search of sustenance allowed more time devoted to art pursuits.

After a long, weary drive it was time to pitch our tent for the night in Coen (we have left our camper in Cooktown, and will be ‘slumming’ in our tent for our Cape York Adventure). Another one pub town, after setting up home, we wandered over for ‘one drink’. After all it is not every day you get to drink at the ‘Sexchange Hotel’. After befriending some local aboriginal ladies our one drink turned into a long night. However, we made some new friends and discussed the intricacies of living between two cultures.

The Sexchange Hotel, Coen

The bitumen was long gone, the red dirt road snaking its way through pencil thin trees with green bushy tops. Headed for Weipa, we had to cross a few creeks. The prettiest creeks we have ever seen. White sandy beaches and river beds line the lazy curves of the rivers, which are dotted with painted gum trees.

Weipa is home to the world’s largest bauxite (aluminium) mine, but still only a town of 3,500 people. Mine workers come from near and far and it is a young town. Perhaps this is why the vast cemetery only has one person in it! Such a strange sight.

Weipa Cemetery... only one person

However, home for us was on the grassy bank of Albatross Bay, a picturesque spot, but with deadly waters. Shine a torch at night and the eyes of the saltwater crocodiles glare back at you, watching your every move.

View from our tent, Weipa

As we head further north the temperature rises, most days hovering around the 33 degree mark. Overnight the temperature drops to 26, however a constant south-easterly allows us a comfortable sleep on our blow up mattress. We are quite content up here, although we would not survive the constant year round heat. It is a desolate area of Australia, yet with an abundance of nature. As we drove the lonely roads, we were entertained by a dingo pup bounding in our path, a hawk catching a whip snake, a blue winged kookaburra who persisted in sitting in the middle of the road, making us drive around him (no he was not dead), and the Palm Cockatoo- only found in Cape York. The Palm Cockatoo is similar to a Black Cockatoo, only slimmer and with prominent red cheeks.

The dusty dirt road led us to Bramwell Roadhouse, where the infamous Telegraph Track begins. We do not have all the safety gear required for this track, such as a winch and snorkel for our ute. Secretly I am pleased. The track is one of the roughest 4WD routes in Australia, with many deep creek crossings.

Dave checking the first creek crossing, Telegraph Track

We are able to do part of the Telegraph Track, but will mostly stick to the (still dirt) Development Road. Still corrugated in parts the Development Road is a far more ‘luxurious’ way to travel to the tip of Australia. However, to see some of the sights of the Cape, we had to ‘do the Telegraph’.

Off the Development Road it was, navigating our way through our first deep creek, and having our bonnet washed in the process we arrived at our camp for the night- Eliot Falls.

Cooling off at Twin Falls (near Eliot Falls)

Water is abundant here, the high annual rainfall of the wet season collects in the shallow sandstone bedrock and seeps into the streams year round. This continuous flow of water has carved deep channels, broken by some unique waterfalls. The falls do not drop far, but are some of the prettiest to date. However, the beauty of these falls is that they are a safe place to swim and where we spent a great deal of time escaping the heat.

Our campsite, Eliot Falls

Nearby, Fruit Bat Falls, with its Pitcher Plant lined banks was a natural spa bath, the water clear and so inviting.

Dave hiding behind Fruit Bat Falls

The main river up here is the Jardine, and to cross it we needed to hop on the barge. The crossing only takes a minute but costs $88 return.

Jardine River Ferry

But this gains us entry into Aboriginal land, and our next stop- Seisia. Are we still in Australia? This land feels like a tropical island. The locals looking more islander, the blue waters lined by palm trees and white sandy beaches. It has a lazy feel, but we were feeling a little luxurious. Our waterfront campsite came complete with a basic beach shade hut. It is hotter here than experienced before, but the ocean breeze cools our sunset drinks.

Writing this blog, from our beach hut in Seisia. Our tent in background.

Sunset at Seisia

We were only 30 kilometres from ‘the tip’, but also a short boat ride away from Thursday Island. Setting our alarm for the 7.30am departure, we boarded the charter boat from Seisia Wharf and headed out for a day’s adventure. The boat headed for Possession Island. The island is unspoilt, but rich in history. A lonely marker sits on the spot were Captain Cook took possession of Australia.

Possession Island, Cairn marks the spot Cook made a claim for this land

The island remains mostly unchanged since this time- a memento of how perilous Cooks voyage really was. As the ocean spray cooled us down we headed for Horn Island.

Welcome to Horn Island

The island is small, with limited facilities, but it featured heavily during WWII as a military air base. A tour through the local museum gave us an insight into this era, including original Japanese documents relating to the invasion of Australia, as well as the perils of the early pearling days.

However, Thursday Island, or TI as it is known was our main destination for the day. The island is small, with no real tourist development.

Thursday Island Foreshore

It is this authenticity and history, which makes the day such an insight into the lives of the Torres Strait people. Our captain arranged a local taxi driver to take us on a tour of the island. Dirk, a third generation local was proud to show us his island, including the Green Hill Fort built for a potential Russian attack after the Crimean War.

Green Hill Fort

Main street, Thursday Island

However, the highlight of the day was the trip back and a spot of fishing. We have not caught one fish during our 19 months on the road, but the drought has been broken. Within seconds of casting a line, Dave had caught the first fish- a Queenfish.

Dave's catch!

I pulled up the second- a Golden Trevally. It was not the biggest Trevally caught on the day, but we feasted on our catch (filleted by our Captain) over a campfire with our neighbours.

My catch!

After the dehydrated foods consumed to date the sweet, melt in your mouth fish was a taste sensation.

But, we were itching to plant our feet on the most northern tip of Australia.

The Croc Tent- souvenir tent on the way to 'The Tip'

A well groomed red dirt road led us as far as we could drive. Then it was a 10 minute walk to the ‘tip’. As we strolled over rock gazing out to the azure blue waters, we soon ran out of land. A sign confirmed we had reached the spot. This was it.

Made it! Standing on the tip of Australia

We had now been to all the compass points of Australia- the most Northerly, Southerly, Westerly and Easterly. There really is not much more of Australia left for us to explore, but we will take a few months yet to make our way back to Sydney.

We did not know what to expect of the land up here. It is a mixture of savannah, thick tropical bush, scrub and all manner of ant hills. Even in the dry season there is still moisture in the air, making it one hot place to be. I do not know how early settlers survived here, but back in the late 1800’s nearby Sommerset was were the Jardine’s called home. The Grandson sold the settlement to the government in the 1940’s and now all that remains is the old well, windmill and the lonely graves of the real ‘last pioneers’.

Lonely graves of the Jardines

This region was an important military base during WWII; however it was the most notorious. Many lives were lost trying to land or navigate the harsh environment. Two plane wrecks still remain as a vivid reminder of how perilous this region is. A DC3 lies in scrub, torn apart by the force of impact, her remains scattered far.

Plane wreck near Seisia

We had three nights at Seisia, allowing us to soak up the sights of the Northern Peninsula Area of Cape York. However, after an uneventful first two nights, we had a sleepless third. We were in croc country, but were yet to sight the elusive creature. All this changed on the afternoon of day three. Cruising up and down the waters, we judged his length at 4 metres. As the tide rolled in, so did Mr Croc. By nightfall the water was about 50 metres from our tent, with Mr Croc hovering at the shore line. We listened to all the safety advice and consequently lived to tell the tale!

Mr Croc in foreground of pic

We were glad to be moving south, even if it meant trudging down the Telegraph Track to see the Gunshot Creek crossing- the most infamous of them all. The Telegraph Track was built in the 1880’s to facilitate the telegraph line from Cairns to Thursday Island. Constant maintenance was needed, so camps were set up along the line, which still accommodate us weary travellers today. The last message was sent along the line in 1962; the track remained and is now one of the greatest 4WD challenges.

There is no way I will ever do ‘Gunshot’. The entrance to the creek is a steep 5 metres drop into muddy water. Once in the creek you have to navigate large holes before emerging up another steep embankment. Too scary for me.

Gunshot creek crossing- Dave at the bottom of entry/ exit

Gunshot often ‘wins’ and many car parts are nailed to the surrounding trees. You can camp on the banks surrounding Gunshot- a must for some people, who have to wait for engines and cars to dry out before proceeding further along the Telegraph.

Musgrave Station was one of the stations built in 1886 to service the telegraph line and was where we spent our last night. A full moon shed its silver light over the countryside and we reflected on our visit into the last remaining outpost that is Cape York. As we headed south the weather cooled each day. It was amazing the change since we headed north 10 days before. The ‘pretty’ creeks were drying up, becoming muddy brown. The green scrub lining the roads now covered in thick red dirt, flicked up by passing cars. The freshly graded road, that gave us a smooth ride on the way up, was now churned up.

We were glad to have seen the area just after the wet, while she was fresh and alive. However, it did mean some fast flowing creek crossings and closed roads. We were not able to access Iron Range National Park, with Australia’s largest lowland rainforest.

Before bedding down in our comfy camper for the night back in Cooktown, we took one last detour through Lakefield National Park.

Old Laura Homestead

The Old Laura Homestead has been reconstructed- an example of early life of the cattle industry on the Cape York Peninsula.

Open and closed

2010-05-08T19:53:00.000-07:00

No one can agree whether the golden sand that once lined the Cairns foreshore was actually a beach, or just a ‘ridge’, but the once golden sand is long gone, a dirty mud flat left in its place. Years of dredging and filling in sand dunes has left the ugly scar. This is not to say that the Cairns foreshore is an unpleasant place to be, but without mans intervention of a ‘lagoon’; there would be no place to cool off during the heat of the day. Alas, our visit co-incided with the soon to be closure of said lagoon for renovations.

Beryl, Leisa, Heather at Foreshore Lagoon

However, the Cairns region is filled with both natural and manmade beauty- some of the tallest and oldest attractions on the planet in fact! The tallest being the stained glass windows of St Monica’s Cathedral. It was a Sunday when we visited these iridescent marvels, so perhaps we were ‘blessed’, allowing us to have had such a good week with my Mum and Beryl. Up from Sydney for a warm weather holiday, we played host to our ‘visitors’ and explored the region together.

'Rainforest' Stained Glass Windows, St Monica's Cathedral (not the tallest ones, as they wouldn't fit in shot!)

Although now in the early stages of the dry season, being located in the heart of the Wet Tropics, Cairns still shed a daily shower. This life giving rain has sustained the world’s oldest tropical rainforest- the Daintree.

The Cairns side of the Daintree is home to Mossman Gorge. The rainforest here is so lush you can almost see it growing, the ferns, palms, vines and trees consuming the space around you. Water in the Mossman River thundered past us, pounding large boulders in its path. The water was mesmerising, the forest enchanting, however our visit was all too brief due to the main walk and suspension bridge over the Gorge being closed for repairs.

Mossman River, Daintree

Once again in croc country, we set off on a cruise along the Daintree River to hunt down a beast. We actually did two cruises allowing us to see the diversity from rainforest to mangroves, at opposing ends of the river. The crocs up here are not as big or abundant as the Northern Territory, due to the cooler weather. However, we still managed to spot juveniles, teenagers and Scarface- an angry big male. He didn’t seem to like us visiting his ‘home’ and threatened to swim over to our boat to tell us so. We made a hasty exit instead.

Scarface the 'Big angry croc'

The waterways not safe for swimming, we headed up high, very high in fact, aboard the Skyrail to Kuranda. Over 7 kilometres of cableway glided us metres above the rainforest canopy. The view up here is very different, the forest floor nowhere to be seen as a wealth of vegetation races its way to the sunlight. As the forest cleared to expose the Barron River, we were rewarded with the sight of Barron Falls. Still in furious flow, the falls dropped metres from the Kuranda Railway. What an amazing sight, if only the train was running...... Closed due to a landslip, the train did eventually commence operation at the end of our Cairns holiday.

Aboard the Skyrail

Kuranda- the village in the rainforest- appears to have changed from its humble beginnings as an alternative lifestyle haven in the late 60’s. The once home industry market stalls given way to cheap imports. The village lacks the right vibe, a village seeming to struggle for its identity. However, the treat was the journey not the destination. Along the way the Skyrail stations allowed us to alight and explore the forest, a step back in time of this ancient land.

The land may be millions of years old, but white settlement is not. It is bewildering to imagine sugar cane farmers carving out an existence in this dense vegetation, let alone Jose Paronella, who fulfilled his dream to build a castle. You may remember Paronella Park from my last blog. We revisited this marvel, soaking up new information and imagining the buildings in their glory days. With materials sourced from the creek and land, he worked so hard to become a rich man, never taking time to rest.

Paronella Park

However, it seems many dreams are lived up here, in this special part of Australia. Detouring for a comfort stop at Innisfail, we found ourselves enjoying coffee and cake aboard ‘Dave’s boat’. Travelling around the country, Dave and his wife take up opportunities as they arrive. Having bought a cyclone damaged boat; they turned it into a cafe on the water. Preparing homemade goodies, they source local produce and served us the ‘best coffee ever’. With a cool breeze enveloping us from the water, it really was an enjoyable way to revive ourselves.

Cafe on Dave's boat

Our new friend ‘Dave’ let us in on the secret of where he gets his coffee. Mareeba, in the Atherton Tablelands, not far from Cairns grows more than 70% of Australia’s coffee crop, so it was no wonder we were drinking ‘good coffee’. Armed with the brand name- North Queensland Gold, we were told this really was an ‘authentic’ farm.
Although a little hard to find, the Maloberti’s farm is certainly a treat. Reminiscent of the ‘old country’ the ramshackle farm is complete with roaming chooks, cats and a mish mash of machinery. But what is clear is their passion for producing a rich, but clean tasting coffee. Bruno proudly spoke of his product, his limited English making our experience all the more ‘authentic’. Purchased direct from the grower, the coffee is so cheap, but so good! If you are interested in trying some, check out www.nqgoldcoffee.com.au

Bruno and his coffee roaster

The picturesque driving of the Tablelands is so different to the forest below. Ant hills dot the rich soil, cast from volcanic activity ten thousand of years ago. The weather is drier up here, yet pockets of forest still provided a tropical feel as we walked to the Curtain Fig Tree, another of nature’s marvels.

Wet and wild

2010-04-26T23:57:00.000-07:00

Leaving Townsville we headed to the Paluma region- the southern gateway to the ‘Wet Tropics’. We were now only 70 kilometres north of Townsville, but in another world, the vegetation thick like that of Papua New Guinea.
Up here the mountains of the Great Dividing Range roll and tumble close to the ocean, the flat coastline a contrast to the sheer size of the ‘hills’. We camped at Rollingstone, on the beach, but journeyed up a narrow, steep and windy road that led us to the Paluma National Park. At 1000 metres above sea level, we were soon walking through a rainforest in the clouds.

Walking through the clouds, Paluma

It is still the wet season and given we were in the wet tropics, it was bound to rain. A tropical storm thundered down from above, yet under the canopy of the rainforest we were protected from all but a few drops.
However, cloaked in low cloud we could not see a thing from Witts Lookout, just a sea of white stretching far out in front of us. The rain was set in, so we opted to head back down the mountain, away from the rainforest and her wetness. Little Crystal Creek, nearing the base of the mountain, is a popular place to swim, especially under the stone arch bridge. Built during the 1930’s depression, it provided much needed work, yet in this climate they would have earnt every dollar!

Little Crystal Creek

Awaking to a new day, it was one once again shrouded in mist, thanks to low clouds trapping the warm sea air. It creates a very pretty effect, but the downside is the humidity. As we walked to Jourama Falls the sweat trickled down our backs. So when we arrived at the first of two creek crossings and knew we would get wet, we didn’t mind too much. That was until I saw the state of the crossing....... Balancing on slippering rocks, ankle deep in fast flowing water I was not amused.

Creek crossing, Jourama Falls

However, the view of the falls was worth it. Tiered over many levels the volume of water cascading down makes you wonder how this country could ever be in drought.

Hot and sweaty we needed a swim and Big Crystal Creek provided the perfect crocodile free spot. Natural water slides, given the slipperiness of the rocks, give this waterhole a playful feel. Some ‘mad’ locals were diving head first down the slides into the plunge pool. Dave had few turns sliding down on his bottom, but I opted to swim in my own private pool a little further downstream. While splashing about I also saw my first Ulysses Butterfly- the famous fluorescent blue butterfly of the tropics.

Swimming, Big Cyrstal Creek

There are many great swim spots and waterfalls in this region, but one we could not miss was Wallaman Falls, near Ingham. Driving up another steep, windy narrow road, Wallaman Falls is a real treat. At 268 metres it is Australia’s tallest sheer drop falls. The surge of water falling is mesmerising, the mist created reminding me of Niagara Falls.

Wallaman Falls

Heading back to the coast, we stopped off at Lucinda, were Australia’s longest jetty stretches 6 kilometres out to sea. The jetty is so long that it has had to be built in line with the curvature of the earth!

Lucinda Jetty- 6km's long!

Driving north once more, the beauty of the tropics was all around us. Pine and palm trees line the road, but not far inland mountain peaks get lost in clouds, thick tropical growth seeming to devour their bulk. It is pretty, but the humidity and bugs are not. I could not live up here, so it was a testament to Dave’s Great Grandfather and Grandfather who did. Settling in Cardwell they were school teacher and student respectively. Enquires at the local museum provided us with some information on said Stubbins and the life they led.

Cardwell Historic centre

Tully, just north of Cardwell claims to be Australia’s wettest place. We would have to agree. On approach the blue sky turned grey, the heavens opening up and stayedg with us to Mission Beach. The wet season officially ends on May 1, but this year it looks to be a little delayed. Still the bonus of this tropical climate is the abundance of tropical fruit.

Apparently Mission Beach is paradise. With a rainforest that meets the sea and 14 kilometres of palm lined beach I can see why it could be so. Lying on the golden sands, gazing out at the steel blue sea dotted with tropical islands sure would be a relaxing time. However, our days at Mission Beach were wet and humid, the sea off limits due to stingers. The locals are not sure what is happening with the weather. Many head south from November till now, staying away for the oppressive wet season. Having now arrived home they too are suffering the weather.

Mission Beach

Mission Beach is famous for its Cassowaries. We did not encounter any of these prehistoric birds, during our walks through the rainforest, just big bugs making us feel we had landed in the Valley of the Giants!

Don't run! Dave and Cassowary friend

As we headed further into the tropics, the overcast days stayed with us. Paronella Park at Mena Creek, looked like it has not had a dry day for many a year. In the 1930’s a Spanish immigrant had a dream to build a castle. On 13 acres beside Mena Creek, he built his castle complete with a theatre, tennis court and picnic grounds. Visitors could come and use the facilities- sort of like a, early day theme park.

Paronella Park at night

The story of how the castle came to be in ruins is plagued by death, insurance fraud and destruction by tropical cyclones. It is an interesting place to visit and is more reminiscent of a lost Amazon city than a castle in country Queensland.

Love and hate

2010-04-22T15:44:00.001-07:00

Aaah Rockhampton. We began a love affair with this town on our first visit, and it still lingers. We cannot put our finger on it, but we could quite easily settle in this town. ‘Rocky’ offers the best of both city and country life- city standard shopping, but authentic country hospitality, topped off with ye olde worlde sandstone buildings.

Customs House and Commercial Hotel, Rockhampton

Known as the beef capital of Australia, life sized bull statues line the main street- however recent Uni pranks have seen the ‘bulls balls’ being souvenired. We camped by the mighty Fitzroy River, Australia’s second largest catchment, which flows through the town. She was in full flow, with plenty of high, green grass lining her banks.

The journey north from Rockhampton re-ignited memories from our first trek north, like walking around Mt Etna trying to find the elusive bats (we never did find them), being chased by a bush turkey and our first free camp spot at Carmila Beach. The sugar cane was still just as tall, a steel green contrast to the now vivid green grass.

As the bitumen danced to the horizon the towns grew further apart. Growing weary, and with no other real option we pulled into Mackay for the night. We had stayed here previously and were not that enamoured with the town. Although we now camped at Black’s Beach, a nicer spot than the Caravan Park in town previously stayed at, our dislike of the town was as strong as ever.

Black's Beach, Mackay

The weather was a little more humid here, but we were not going near the ocean water. Stinger season. Only last week Black’s Beach was closed as a 12 year old girl, wearing a full stinger suit, had a Box Jellyfish wrap around her ankle and exposed foot. Given morphine she was still screaming in pain a full five minutes later.

Once you leave Mackay the vista changes, once again becoming a sight to gaze at. The fields of rippling sugarcane run right up to the edge of a sculptured mountain range. Paperbarks and palm trees line the road. We were on our way to Bowen, famous for being the location of the ‘Australia’ movie. We have both seen the movie, but are not fans of Baz’s work. However, stopping in at the Big Mango, which is also a tourist information centre, we discovered there is more to see and do here.

The Big Mango!

Bowan marks our foray into previously uncharted territory, and we gotta say- we like it! Located at the top of the Whitsundays, it is surprisingly nice. The town still has an air of underdeveloped purity, but with its landscaped foreshores, pretty beaches complete with tumbling granite boulders and swaying palm trees, it is a nice place to chill out.

Horseshoe Bay, Bowen.... a little old lady took the photo for us...

Much beautifying work has gone on since ‘Australia’, but all that remains of the movie set is the Police Station facade. Made of plaster of paris, the weather is playing its part in erasing all evidence of the movie.

The Police Station, 'Australia' movie

Charters Towers was to be our next destination, however having passed through Home Hill and detoured to Ayr, with its Big Snake, we soon came across a warning sign.

Big Snake (actually the Rainbow Serpent), Ayr

The road ahead was very steep and trucks, buses and caravans were warned not to proceed. We were annoyed. We had specifically stopped in at the tourist information centre to enquire about such. A previous hair raising steep road experience had us turning around and heading towards Townsville.

Infact, we stopped about 25 km’s south of Townsville in the Bowling Green National Park. Camped by the Alligator River, we were soon joined by a flock of Bush Turkeys (we have never seen so many) and cute little Agile Wallabies. The showers were cold only, but the crystal clear river was a nice 22 degrees.... so guess where we bathed....

Our bath, Bowling Green National Park

The following morning we hiked to Cockatoo Creek. There is a particular plant up here that has a strong smell like tumeric. It permeates the air and has all on the walk wondering which plant it is coming from.

After a restless night spent listening to the strange sounds of the ‘tropical bush’, we headed into Townsville. Although Queensland’s second largest city, it still has a tropical laid back feel. Sprawled in a valley, the town is nestled in between huge rocky escarpments ending at the sea, giving a sense of space and freedom with the security of impenetrable mountains. Although, lucky WWII ended when it did for the Americans were about to blow up one such mountain, Castle Hill, in order to form a land bridge to Magnetic Island, located 8 kilometres off shore.

Picnic lunch near the Rock Pool, The Strand

The foreshore, known as ‘The Strand’ is manmade, complete with stinger free rock pool. This is just one of the modern developments, giving the impression of a thriving town, yet compassionate with the many heritage buildings. The Museum of Tropical Queensland is a very modern building, however we found the museum itself a disappointment.

My head on a platter, Townsville Museum

Whilst the Pandora shipwreck exhibition (the ship sent to find the Bounty and its mutineers), was worthy, the remainder of the museum was a little too kid centric. Yet, we like Townsville, another place we could easily live in.

Easy Easter

2010-04-08T23:08:00.001-07:00

Have you ever noticed that it always rains over Easter, no matter when it falls? It is almost that over 2,000 years later, Christ is still shedding tears as he is nailed to the cross. Lucky the Easter bunny appears with a basketful of chocolate to chase thoughts of a damp holiday away......

Fortunately too for us, as the rain fell over Noosa, we were in a house. Robyn and David proved to be exceptional hosts and our Easter was relaxing.......... and full of chocolate. Between showers we even managed to scour the sights of the region not yet visited.

David, Robyn and Dave, down by the Noosa River

Dave and 'Paige' in Robyn and David's backyard

Timbeerwah Lookout rising high above sea level, gives a 360 degree view of ancient volcano plugs, rising from the lush green space below. Where once lava flowed is now a rich, fertile land that reaches towards the shores of the Sunshine Coast.

Timbeerwah Lookout, ancient volcano plug in background

Noosa River can be seen snaking its way through the environs, explaining why Noosa has so many roundabouts, as the communities mould themselves around the waters path.
Just north of Noosa, the Botanical Gardens of Cooroy showed us what plants thrive in this tropical environment. I even managed to find an Easter egg left over from the hunt, alas the ants had found it before me....... The Gardens may also have swayed me to begin a liking for the Bush Turkey. As we meandered through the grounds, so too did many young chicks. A miniature version of Mum and Dad, they didn’t look nearly as intimidating.

Heading inland ‘up the mountain’ once again to say goodbye to Dave’s cousin and family, we got our last taste of the scenic Sunshine Coast views. The Blackall Range, creating this hinterland region between the beach and the vast emptiness of Queensland’s interior, has some great waterfalls. We enjoyed the Mapleton Falls, which plunge in a sheer drop to a lost world of palms below.

Mapleton Falls, a sheer drop below

This rainforest oasis was a stark contrast to the neighbouring town of Montville, where we spent the remainder of the morning exploring the many village shops.

Having stayed for over two weeks, we made our farewells to Noosa and friends and landed in Gympie. Gympie was the ‘town that saved Queensland’, thanks to its once rich gold deposits. However, the mining stopped in the 1920’s and the town is no longer an important part of Queensland’s growth. A once prestigious main street is now full of discount stores and barbers. Even the air is filled with a foul smell, rather like burnt molasses (there is a food factory nearby). Yet, camped on the edge of the showground, with its green paddocks and stables ringed by pine trees, it was a pretty enough place.

A visit to Queensland is not complete without seeing Flo and Joh’s home town of Kingaroy. The Peanut and Baked Bean capital of Australia, Kingaroy is not just famous for the Bjelke-Petersen’s! Perhaps it is coincidence that the long-time Premier of Queensland came from this ‘South Burnett’ region, but all the towns here are ‘neat as a button’ interspersed between thriving farmlands.

Nearby Nanango was hosting its annual show, and we can say Nanango does put on ‘a good show’. About an eighth the size of the Sydney Royal Easter Show, it still provided us with a day’s entertainment. Wood chopping has always been a favourite of mine, and I must admit to watching the burly men sheer through the tough wood for over an hour. The show was full of country type characters, including the old timer with his trained dog and flock of ducks, whom raced around a makeshift track.

Racing ducks... red won

But the highlight would have to be the dancing Bobcats. Having lined up for a challenge, two of the Bobcats then proceeded to give us a warm up ‘dance’ on two wheels, twisting and turning their machines to music, before getting back in line.

Dancing Bobcat video (20 sec)

Lucky they were wearing safety shoes for the demo........ thongs.

However, our biggest giggle of the day came from the food displays. Who would have thought a packet cake could be entered in the show, displayed in full glory?

Packet cakes on display, Nanango Show

The South Burnett region has much to offer, with the Bunya Mountains another short drive from Kingaroy. Queensland’s second oldest National Park, the Bunya Mountains contain the world’s largest stand of Bunya Pine trees.

Underneath a giant Bunya Pine

Rising rigid from a bed of Bracken and Maiden Hair Ferns, the Hoop and Bunya Pines are unlike any Australian forest we have seen. The setting would not be out of place in the Canadian Rockies, although the wildlife here thankfully does not include Grizzly Bears!

Bunya Mountains, not like the Aussie bush!

Moving on to the North Burnett region, we made a pit stop in Gayndah, Queensland’s oldest country town.

The Big Orange!

Having taken photos at the Big Orange, we then learnt the reason for those ‘Gaypak’ stickers often found on mandarins- they are packed in Gayndah! Not to be outdone the next town, Mundubbera comes complete with the Big Mandarin, we really are in citrus country.

The Big Mandarin!

It was a good a day to be on the road, with the air con on. The outside temp, whilst only in the high 20’s, was exacerbated by the 300% humidity (OK, maybe I exaggerate a little). The clouds danced above us, teasing us that it was going to rain and offering cooling relief.

With the afternoon ticking by, we set up camp in Cania Gorge National Park, with its sandstone cliffs, caves and sheltered gorges. The heavens still had not opened up, but the birdlife certainly rained down on us. Within minutes of preparing a snack Dave had both King Parrots and Lorikeets landing on his head and shoulders. I was too quick to laugh though, as they soon landed on me too.

As the sun prepared to descend the rain finally came- lashings of it. We were soon ‘swimming’ around our camp, but the temperature was sheer bliss.

The Overhang, Cania Gorge

Fortunately the rain finally ceased, but the air remained cool enough to enjoy a few walks in the park. We were not that impressed with the sights on offer, but the wildlife in this park is sure worth it.

Bettong (Rat Kangaroo)

The birds, Bettongs (rat kangaroos), possums and even snakes were out in force for our visit.

Friendly locals, Cania Gorge

Towards the sun

2010-04-01T18:30:00.000-07:00

What is it about Sydney that makes many people want to escape? The east coast of Australia is dotted with friends and family who have made the pilgrimage, and so we found ourselves in esteemed company and travelling about 30 kilometres north a day.

Although Queensland really can be ‘beautiful one day and perfect the next’, as with any major city centre, those that relocate to seek their fortune, or escape a past pain do not always succeed. Caravan Parks in such areas, lack that certain holiday feel with many permanent residents. Everyone seems wary of each other, double checking locks and securing sites.... I don’t recommend staying in a Caravan Park on the Gold Coast, but I do recommend lunch at Nobby’s Beach Surf Club!

It was there that we met with ex Sydney friends Bern and Gary, for a lazy lunch overlooking the beach. The Surf Clubs ‘up here’ are quite flash, serving alcohol and restaurant quality fare.

Old friends, Blake, Sharee, Bob, Me and Pat

Another thirty kilometres up the road we found some more old friends, Bob and Pat and their daughter Sharee, whom I had grown up with. Away from the hustle and bustle of Sydney, they sure have found paradise in a Bali inspired house, on the sloping bank of the river. Greeting the new day with breakfast in the ‘hut’ beside the pool, accompanied by a swim...... yes please.

Known for its beaches, the Queensland Coast caters to us sun lovers. With the recent huge swells having subsided, Coolum Beach was a great interlude before reaching Noosa and more friends. I like Coolum. It is an easy place. Beach on one side and strip of shops and cafe’s on the other. However, our memory Coolum will always be Mr Frog. Having bought a lettuce from a roadside stall a week prior, we were using the last of the leaves, when he was discovered in the bag. The cold of the fridge had sent him into hibernation, but as the air warmed his body, he began to blink his eyes. He had travelled with us from the hinterland region, and we were not sure if he would survive in his new beachside address.

Mr Frog, lived in our fridge for a week

Goodbye Froggy, hello Tewantin (Noosa). Our friend Amanda was joining us for a week, so we all set up home in number 21- a Cabin in the Caravan Park. Having flown business class, and looking rather too posh for our set up (hee hee), we soon settled her in with some cask wine and Jatz crackers.

Amanda and I outside 'No 21'

Being back in Noosa was a bittersweet feeling. We were last here at the beginning of our adventure, our senses soaking up the beauty, our mind buzzing with the anticipation of the journey ahead. We are now on the last leg of our journey, a lifetime of memories behind us and a little desensitised to the beauty of ‘another’ beach.

However, with the water temp spot on and the Pandanus Palms gently swaying in the breeze, a swim at Noosa Beach eases away the worries. There are many apartment buildings lining the shore, but with a height of only 3 storeys, and large areas locked away as National Park, there is still a natural beauty to behold. Sometimes though, nature can get a little too friendly. I didn’t really like the ‘huge’ fish in the ocean brushing past, the bush turkeys wanting to inspect my towel or the cream coloured little crabs that thought my armpit was a good spot to dig a burrow.

Sunset on Noosa River, great BBQ spot

However, we all liked the lanky old Koala spotted during our headland walk. Stoned on a diet of eucalyptus leaves he made a vague effort to focus on us as his limbs stretched out, securing a more comfy position in the bow of a tree.

Koala spotted on headland walk, Noosa

The bird life is quite prolific around Noosa too. As flocks of Corella’s and Lorikeets flew in to perch in the ‘riverside tree hotel’ for the night, we were grateful they obeyed quiet time rules. The screeching and squawking finally gave way as coupled up, they nestled in for the night.

'Big' Pelican, Noosa River

The hinterland region surrounding Noosa was lush and green after many weeks of rain. The journey to Eumundi providing some of the best scenery on offer, was superseded by thoughts of what bargains were awaiting. Eumundi Markets really are the best in Australia and never disappoint.

Montville, high up in the hinterland is a quaint little town, but is big on views and gourmet delights. Dave’s cousin and family, more ex Sydney-ites, have set up home here. Nestled in a valley, green after endless rain, the view from the house is one you never tire of. Bubbling creek, rolling hills and a smattering of cows thrown in to complete the picture.

Casper, Olly, Buster the dog and I at their home, Montville

After a week of sun and giggles with Amanda, we bade her farewell. Having had her fill of beach, it was back to Melbourne. We all got to relive a beach memory from childhood- being dumped. The waves were big at Sunshine Beach, around the headland from Noosa, but we were swimming between the flags. How vivid that memory of terror as the waves pummelled, tossing us about with reckless abandon, depositing us on shore shaken, sandy and out of breath.

With the Easter Bunny soon to arrive, along with hordes of tourists, we have settled into Robyn and David’s house. Friends of Dave’s from Sydney, we had caught up with them on our previous visit. Their friendliness and hospitality made it a must to stop by again and the comfy bed may be one we never want to leave....... Noosa sure sucks you into her vortex........

Wet, Wet, Wet

2010-03-19T20:27:00.001-07:00

Just how young Australia is, is evident in our historical sites. Sure the Trial Bay Gaol is a magnificent structure in a too die for location, but the history is short lived. Originally built in the 1870’s, the location was selected so the prisoners could build a breakwater, creating a safe harbour between Brisbane and Sydney. However, the scheme was a failure. The breakwater was constantly washed away and having spent over $130,000, only 15 metres survived. The project and gaol was no longer.

Trial Bay Gaol

Then, in WWI the gaol was used as a camp for people of German descent. Although interned, they enjoyed much freedom and were treated very well. End of Trial Bay Gaols short history. Today the gaol is a solitary, yet picturesque ruin exuding a great atmosphere of mystery.
Intermittent showers continued to fall from the silvery blobs in the sky, but we took advantage of the brief intervals to exercise our legs in the local National Parks. Stretching along the coast from Crescent Head to South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park is long and narrow, hugging the coast. Unfortunately, like so much of the NSW coast Bitou Bush has taken over.

Bitou Bush as far as the eye can see

We bush bashed our way around the headland, stopping to glimpse at views out to a distant sea. The National Park is also home to the Smoky Cape Lighthouse- the most elevated in NSW. The steep incline to the lighthouse sure was a workout..... and preparation for a much harder walk to come.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse

With uninviting ocean conditions, and therefore no frolicking in the waves, we continued north. A pit stop at Nambucca Heads to see old friends also provided us with a pod of dolphins surfing the waves! I have never seen so many dolphins together all having a grand old time.
With the rain preferring the coast, we headed inland via the Waterfall Way. One of the most scenic drives in NSW, the steep, narrow winding track (opps, I mean road) put on a spectacular show. The recent rain produced many waterfalls that you drive past on your climb higher to the heavens above. This is rainforest country, the moisture ever present in the air and a series of the greenest, rambling hills we ever did see.

Dangar Falls, Dorrigo

The morning mists that hung around till lunch coupled with a rich, fertile soil meant you could quite literally sit and watch the grass grow before your eyes. I could never live here. Sure the setting is straight from a romance novel, rolling hills, misty mornings, cosy cottages with crackling fires, but the lawn mowing was non-stop. The sound of which grates me more than fingernails slowly, screeching down a blackboard over and over.
We had not left the rain behind, but at least under the thick canopy of the rainforest we were sheltered from the drops. Through the mud we scrambled, although enjoying the vista and vividness of this World Heritage Park. After lazing about in Sydney, we were back walking for a good part of the day. Aaahhhh, nothing beats the feeling of ripping off the shoes at the end of long, hard walk. .....that was until we discovered the contingent of leeches, who had come along for the ride. Urrgghh. We looked like we had been in a fierce battle, given the amount of blood that seemed to piss out for hours afterward.
So, back it was to the coastal town of Iluka, situated on the opposite side of the Clarence River from Yamba. Iluka is home to another World Heritage Rainforest, but fortunately no leeches. Nearly losing their World Heritage status, as the dreaded Bitou Bush and other invasive weeds threatened to take over, the town banded together for a huge Landcare operation. The status and rainforest was saved for us all to enjoy.

Littoral Rainforest, Iluka

Our walking complete, we hit the road again until we landed in Kingscliff, on the NSW side of the Gold Coast. Similar to Noosa, it is a pretty spot. We set up a beachfront lodging and settled ourselves for a few days. However, Cyclone Ului launched her fury whipping up the ocean, so that the waves thundered and roared throughout the night. However, the days were now clear and bright, so with our enthusiasm for exercise we tackled the big one- Mt Warning. Being the first place in NSW to see the sun in winter, we knew she was tall. I had also done the walk before- some 30 years ago and didn’t remember it being that strenuous. My 8 year old legs were obviously in better condition than they are now, for today both Dave and I ‘recovering’ and in a little pain. The scenery on the walk is spectacular, but the walk is a challenge.

Scenery, Mt Warning 'walk'

Imagine putting your stairmaster on the steepest setting possible and pumping away at a moderate pace for just over 2 hours. Throw in some muddy sections and rocks to negotiate and you begin to get the idea. Then, when you think you have made it, keep your stairmaster on the same setting and place it up against a wall, at an angle of 120 degrees.

Nearly there... climbing Mt Warning

Grab a thick chain to hold onto, so you don’t fall down and you have finally made it..... From the top, across the mountains, you can see as far as Coolangatta, in the brief periods that the clouds allow you to do so.

Up in the clouds, atop Mt Warning

Yet, what goes up must come down.

Enjoying the walk......

Now instead of the stairmaster, imagine you do thousands of squats, as you brace your thighs down the steep, never ending incline. Our legs may disagree, but the walk was worth it and dinner never tasted soooooo good.

Goodbye Sydney Town

2010-03-11T20:46:00.000-08:00

The camper was packed and we are ready to leave Sydney town. After nearly 5 weeks the feeling was a little despondent. Five weeks is time enough to get back into the swing of city life, but also time enough to be itching to hit the road again.
We have left a lot more socialised, a few kilos heavier (bound to happen when you have 15 days straight of lunch and dinner out) but tired and wanting the freedom of our travelling life. However, it was truly great to catch up with so many friends and family members and meet the new additions.
Sydney, one of the best cities in the world (not that we are biased) , has one of the most picturesque harbours too. Our reason for stopping back in Sydney again, the wedding after 17 years of courtship for Kellie and Dean, was aboard a boat.

The happy couple- finally!

The lights of Sydney provided the backdrop as we cruised the harbour and soaked up the familiar sights of our home town. The images and fun time we had will certainly last us for the next leg of our journey.
Having left Sydney we stopped on the Central Coast to catch up with my brother and family. With 3 little girls the visit was fun, but full on!

Kayla, Leisa & Aneika (nieces) having a tea party in the camper

Monday morning , time for kindy and school and our goodbye. As the road headed north of Newcastle, the buildings thinned out to be replaced by scrub and open pastures. We were ‘home’ once again. The sun was shining and we soon reached one of our favourite spots- Diamond Head Camp Ground in the Crowdy Head National Park. Nestled in the shadow of the Three Brothers Mountains, metres from the ocean the campsite is always grassy, with a smattering of Paperbark trees to provide shade. Mind you, it is a wonder that so much grass abounds, as the number of kangaroos that hang out all day is amazing!

Joey, playing near our camper

I wasn’t so enthralled by the HUGE goannas, but it was entertaining to see Dave leap ten feet in the air as one tried to jump for our rubbish bag.
During WWII, the author Kylie Tennant lived in a small timber hut on Diamond Head. She was taken with the beauty as we too are. It is not just the prolific wildlife, but the sweeping beaches (with pods of dolphins!), rugged headland formations, rainforest pockets, wetlands and coastal heath that has us so entranced.

Author Kylie Tennant's hut

Edging further up the coast, it appears the ‘scenery with personality’ is not unique to the Crowdy Head area. As we passed through North Haven, Bonny Hills and Lake Cathie we were similarly impressed. But our destination was Port Macquarie, to spend a couple of nights with Helen and David. Neither of us can remember holidaying at Port Macquarie, but we were certainly impressed. The foreshore is dotted with secret bays, giving many beach options depending on the swell.

Secret bay near lighthouse, Port Macquarie

The town is in a growth phase, complete with ‘The Glasshouse’. A state of the art theatre centre, it actually sent the council broke. Administrators were called in and for a time, Port Macquarie had no representatives at any level of government. However, like the Opera House, it will no doubt be appreciated in years to come.

Getting cosy with the locals, Port Macquarie

Our host Helen volunteers at the Koala Hospital and we found ourselves joining her tour to meet some of the ‘inmates’. Barry sat on his cushioned bough, ignoring us like the grumpy old man that he is. Birthday Girl is older, but she delighted in the attention- well why not, she looks very good for her age. Kaylee was asleep, drunk on a feed of leaf, but Bea was my favourite- lapping up her special milk, she had a playful look in her eye.

Bea having a snack

The rain persisted night and day, and we were glad to be in a house. It is still raining now, but we have moved onto Trial Bay, near South West Rocks. For now we are cosy in the camper, but are looking forward to exploring the 1886 gaol and National Park areas.

Home Stretch

2010-01-29T21:34:00.001-08:00

As the dawn appeared on Australia Day, we took the opportunity to sleep in and have a relaxing morning (very Australian). The day was hot, but the bloated white clouds above kept the suns piercing rays at bay.

Broken Hill’s Australia Day festivities began at 2pm, at the local pool. Dave and I, with the entire population of the city, settled in for an afternoon of swimming, thong tossing and sausage sizzles.

Water slide- Australia Day, Broken Hill

The Mayor announced that the huge water slide would open at 4pm. We couldn’t wait to throw our bodies down the tube which snaked its way into the pool. Alas, we forget, we are in NSW. The Nanny State. The state where OH&S has gone mad (you should see what you can legally do in the NT and WA!). It was all so strictly controlled we decided to give it as miss. Anyway, after such an exhausting day (hee hee), we needed a big rest, luckily we stopped at the big chair to do so....

Big Chair at lookout, Broken Hill

And so our sojourn in Broken Hill came to an end. Heading towards the geographic centre of NSW, the scrub became thicker, the trees a little taller. The red dirt was still ever present, as well as the heat. What was alarming though was the plethora of wild goats. The roadside was littered with herds of the beasts. Surely they are causing untold damage to this fragile land?

With many miles to go before we hit ‘home’, Cobar was to be our pit stop for the night. Memories of Cobar conjure up a drought stricken land.

Mine at Cobar- not as big as Kalgoorlie!

It has been over 25 years since either of us has set foot out here, and what we can’t get over is how green it all is. No sign of drought, just fertile lands and a green verge paving our way. We had left the outback and her silence. In these ‘green lands’ the shrill of the cicada rings in your ears from dawn until dusk.

A few hundred more kilometres down the road and we reached Dubbo, in the Bogan Shire. Welcome to the Bogan Shire the sign proclaimed. I’m sure every tourist has a giggle as they pass. A three hour walk of the town took us down the main street, with its buildings from a bygone era and numerous discount stores (how do they all survive?). The Cultural Centre was a great find, with a display of Dubbo’s history told through an exhibition of stories and memorabilia.

Aboriginal grinding grooves

The history continued 9 kilometres out of town, where ancient aboriginal grinding grooves are found etched into rocks by the bank of the Macquarie River.

Our stay was completed with a visit to the Shoyoen Japanese Gardens before journeying onto Wellington.

Welcome to Wellington - What tha?

Wellington was the site of many a family holiday in our younger (much younger) years. ‘Back in our day’ Wellington was very dry, the paddocks varying shades of brown, the result of a long harsh drought. However, situated in a valley she has reaped the benefits of life giving water seeping down the mountains. We both could not believe our eyes, having never seen her so green and vibrant. My recollections are of mouse plagues and picking out the sharp cats eye burrs from the bottom of my thongs, so it was good to see a place in better condition than our memories served us. The town streetscape is still charming, although many of the traditional shops are now replaced by KFC, McDonalds and the ever present bargain shops.

Of course, we stayed where we did all those years ago, at The Caves. I learnt Nancy, who used to check us into the park, died only two weeks ago. The Donovan’s have also left for greener pastures. Located further down the road, by the river, they ran a horse riding school and I used to help take out trail rides during the school holidays. The characters may have left, but the Caravan Park has not changed at all. The cabins are still the same ones that Mum and I struggled to ride past on our tandem bike.

Inside the Phosphate Mine

No visit to The Caves is complete without a trip underground. We opted for the Phosphate Mine, with its preserved relics of a prehistoric time.

Thylacoleo (like a Giant Wombat thing) skeleton, Wellington Caves

Bones of many mega-marsupials have been found here, hidden underground for millions of years.

We were now so close to ‘home’, but managed to squeeze in one more night away at Orange. The quality of wine from Orange has improved over the years and is now recognised as ‘some really good stuff’. We certainly enjoyed the wines we sampled and the friendly cellar door staff. Mt Canobolas rises high above the town, so high infact it is the highest point from here to the West Coast of Australia.

View from Mt Canobolas

As we soaked up the view below, we contemplated how beautiful, yet diverse this land is.
With only 200 kilometres to go, the home stretch was on, a mixture of excitement and pleasure as we drove into those familiar towns. Bathurst, home of Mt Panorama and the ‘race’. Anyone can drive around the famous track, so off we went. The speed limit is only 60. That was OK- going up the hill that is all we could manage with our ‘house’ attached. I guess the Supercars are a little more tuned for the track, but I wouldn’t have wanted to increase the speed much more. Still Conrad Straight approached and with a few sound effects, we won the race.

Looking back to Mount Panorama while going down Conrod Straight

Sounds of Silence

2010-01-25T17:17:00.000-08:00

With the temperature in Moonta rising, the place to be was out on the jetty, letting the cool ocean air fan our bodies. To be a part of the ‘jetty scene’ we purchased a crab pot, stocked the esky and nestled down for the afternoon.

Dave and his catch

The Yorke Peninsula has a reputation for Blue Swimmer crabs and we were not disappointed, from just one pot we managed to catch 11 of legal size!

Part of our crab haul!

The sun had now set, we had drunk all our supplies, so it was home to cook us a crab feast, before we left the following morning.

The Barrier Highway led us away from the coast and further into the remote outback. As the vegetation subsided, so did the wildlife, traffic and noise. We were making our way to Broken Hill, but being some 700 kilometres away decided to stay somewhere to break the journey. There were not many options and passed through many abandoned towns, the hot dry wind having sucked any signs of life away.

The towns still in existence have changed little since their beginnings, bar decreasing in size. The homes and shops are still the originals built over a hundred years ago. The only giveaway of a modern time being the cars parked out front. This area of the outback really is an eerie place, full of ghost towns, bordered up windows and the engulfing sound of silence. The Central Outback region, with its iconic beauty, is not like out here and we began to realise why the outback can be seen as a desolate, isolated and slightly spooky place.

No sign of life for miles, then a delerict home

It was more comfortable in the car, with the air conditioning set on high, but sometimes nature calls. Stepping outside the heat made the air heavy, each breath becoming a laborious task. It was only a short walk to the ‘ablutions’, but seemed to take an eternity. The only sound to be heard was the eee- eww squeak of a whirly bird atop the toilet block. Perhaps it needed some oil, or was just working too hard but the noise, amplified in the silence, was rather eerie.

We had thought of stopping at Yunta for the night, but the patch of dirt, next to a petrol station, on the main road, that would have been home, made us press on to the next town. It was too hot to camp by the side of the road and besides, there was no shade or shelter, just a flat barren earth. We have all heard the saying ‘Big Sky Country’. It is true, the sky out here is enormous, stretching for miles and seeming to flatten the earth below.

Mundi Mundi Plains

And then we were suddenly in NSW, 50 kilometres from Broken Hill. We had been expecting a road block to take our contraband fruit and vegetables, but instead there was just a simple sign- Welcome to New South Wales. We were last in our ‘home’ state some 13 months prior. It was a strange feeling. We would soon be seeing familiar sights- NSW number plates, The Sunday Telegraph and place names familiar from childhood holidays in the ‘country’.

We had been on the road all day, and now a shower and then bed was near. Entering Broken Hill from the South Australian side the first thing you see is the cemetery. A cemetery that goes on forever, surely there are more people dead than alive in this town?

A stray I adopted in Broken Hill

Broken Hill- a place we had both visited as kids, but one that still offers many delights. No trip here is complete without popping out to Silverton. Silverton was born in 1883, but by 1899 was in decline when Broken Hill, with larger mines, was established. Although the population is less than 60, it is far from a ‘ghost town’. What is left of the ‘village’ (many buildings were transported to Broken Hill) is a major tourist attraction and movie location. Many films and commercials have been made out here, including Mad Max 2, A Town Like Alice and Priscilla Queen of the Desert.

The Interceptor from Mad Max 2

Artwork, Silverton

On our way home we detoured passed the Pro Hart Gallery. This famous artist was born and bred in Broken Hill, his quirky style just part of the Broken Hill scene.

Rolls Royce, painted by Pro Hart

Having picked up the entry key from the Visitors Centre, it was then off to the Sculpture Symposium. For six weeks from April 1, 1993 sculptors from around the world worked on a lonely hilltop, in the desert country surrounding Broken Hill. There are 12 sculptures in this isolated landscape, all carved without power tools.

Sculptures, Broken Hill desert

The National Park near Menindee, 100 odd kilometres from Broken Hill, is where Dave had camped as a child. The memories of dead Gum Trees standing tall in the Menindee Lake a happy one. The Gum Trees are still there, but water has not been sighted for a very long time. In fact, all of the lakes in the National Park were bone dry. With the South Australian water allocation running through the Menindee Lakes system, we were beginning to wonder if any would reach there. However, it is the lakes outside of the National Park that will be used. With the Darling running strong, these lakes still hold water and Dave got to see the Gum Trees still standing proud in the water.

Menindee Lakes

The National Park, called Kinchega was once part of a vast sheep station. At the end of its 99 year lease it was handed back to the Government. The homestead has been reduced to a pile of rubble, due to flood, but the Shearing Shed and Quarters are still in pretty good nick, having been maintained.

Shearing Shed, Kinchega National Park

The buildings and machinery provide an insight into our heritage, but I was amused by some of the relics from the station life. On display were gadgets from the early 70’s, when both Dave and I were born. Have we become that old, that a time from our life is on Museum display!
Homestead ruins

Hot and Cold

2010-01-18T18:43:00.000-08:00

If you look at a map of South Australia, it is as if God realised his mistake and tried to claw away the oppressive heat and scorched land. But as the weather cooled he stopped. The result is a number of jagged peninsulas jutting out from the mainland, and we now found ourselves down the boot shaped one- the Yorke Peninsula.
As the rain came down we enjoyed the sweet relief. We will be forever grateful to the hospitality shown by Sam and Chris who invited us to stay until this cool change came through- some four days.

Our first stop was Ardrossan, on the east coast of the ‘Yorke’. A thriving sea port, on a clear day you can see across the water to Adelaide. But with the weather closing in, we marvelled at the red ochre cliffs that dropped to the ocean instead.
Mere kilometres are all that separates the towns of the Yorke. After the vast distances travelled between towns only recently, it took some getting used to. Or maybe it was the towns themselves that had us feeling a little nonchalant. Sure there were interesting discoveries like Wool Bay, where relics of an old lime kiln dug into the cliff remain (the industry died out in the 1950’s), but unless you are a keen fisherman the towns do not have much to offer (fishermen we are not).

Old lime kiln, Wool Bay

With such fertile land to grow barley, most of the peninsula is now farmland, the natural beauty simply cleared away.

However, a couple of nights in the historic town of Edithburgh allowed us slip back into our camper life. Many shipwrecks dot the coastline and the local cemetery provided an interesting insight into the tragedy of the ‘Clan Ranald’, shipwrecked in 1909. Forty lives were lost, all bar six an Asian crew. The Captain and esteemed cohorts are buried with full honours in the main body of the cemetery. The ‘Asians’ are buried in a mass grave some distance away, at the back of the cemetery.

A lonely mass grave, far away from the real cemetery

Although each crew members name was known, the mass grave was marked with a very small headstone stating ‘names unknown’. It wasn’t until the 90th anniversary that their names were finally recognised on a new headstone.

We were beginning to think that perhaps we were becoming a little ho-hum about our travels. With such a young history, much of Australia is the same, one coastal town much like the other. That was until we travelled to the ‘toe’ and Innes National Park. This was more like it- rugged coastline, spectacular scenery and a rich cultural heritage.

Our home, Innes National Park

A southerly breeze kept the air cool, but the sun enabled us to finally have a comfortable day on the beach. We had our mojo back, camped in the natural bushland with many emus for company. Contented after a day snorkelling and sunning, we took off to explore the park.

One of the locals, Innes National Park

With shipwrecks to discover our first stop was the ‘Ethel’. Back in 1940 this huge ship run into trouble on the reef. Salvage attempts only made it worse, securing the ship a grave at the base of the cliffs. Ironically, the first ship to encounter the troubled Ethel was the ‘Ferret’. Some 16 years later the Ferret too became shipwrecked at the same spot! The ravages of sixty years have left all but a rusting hull of Ethel, nature having reclaimed her body. It makes you wonder that no matter what we do to this earth, she will always win, simply reclaiming and adapting to a new way of surviving.

Wreck of the 'Ethel', Inneston National Park

Discovered in 1913, gypsum was once a rich mining industry of Inneston, which now lies within the boundaries of the National Park. The town, owned by the mining company, thrived and was a completely self sufficient community. That was until the depression of the 1930’s. A 2km walk took us through the remains of the abandoned town.

The Post Office, Inneston

Ruins, Inneston

The ruins of the post office, general store, factory, bakery, once grand homes, sporting grounds and stables, show it would have been a comfortable existence, albeit with no running water or electricity. Back in those days, before any environmentl concerns, rubbish was collected and piled at the top of the cliff edge. When the pile got big a tractor pushed it over, the rubbish falling onto the rocks and into the ocean below. Rubbish still remains at the cliff top, and is now heritage listed. In their wildest dreams, I'm sure the residents would not have imagined their broken crockery and used containers would become such. ...

Heritage listed rubbish. Broken plates and bottles dotting the clifftop

But it was the high energy coastline, sculptured by an unpredictable Southern Ocean that gave us the most rewarding views. It is no wonder there are remains of about 40shipwrecks here.

But, in need of a real shower and power, it was onward to Point Turton. Another coastal fishing town, but it did have a tavern perched high on the cliff top. As the sun descended on another day, we enjoyed a cold one and thought it all not too bad.

With no real destination in mind, we meandered our way up the west coast.

Yorke Peninsula coast

Stopping in at the odd little village to break the journey, we soon settled ourselves at Moonta. Luckily, Moonta has a certain charm of yesteryear. The buildings hark back to the late 1800’s when skilled Cornish migrants flocked to work in the copper mines.

Remains of the copper mining industry

Lucky, because we were to be here for four days, awaiting a new tyre from Adelaide- our first ‘car’ casualty to date.

At its peak the infrastructure built at the mine sites was on a grand scale. It was really quite bewildering to see photos from the heyday, looking across the stark ruins today. The buildings in the town itself have changed little. The shop names may have changed, but we still had to drive down a little alley at the back of the pub in order to buy takeaway alcohol.

Standing atop the tailings pile, across to the enginehouse

Summer Lovin

2010-01-10T17:34:00.000-08:00

Summer holidays. Scorching sun, sun kissed skin, endless cricket, lazy days gorging on food and cocktails and the re-birth of Jesus, all happening in South Australia. Yes..... the ‘rebirth’ of Jesus. We met the ‘Madonna’ at the Clare Valley Caravan Park, amongst some other ‘interesting’ people. However, the Madonna was by far the ‘best’. Apparently her daughter was to give birth to Jesus, but first Mum had to perform 12 tasks. The 11th task was to go camping, hence our joy in meeting her.....
Yet, camped under the shade of some mighty big Gum Trees we were able to put aside the ‘joys’ of a Caravan Park during Christmas school holidays. The Clare Valley, like so many wine regions, is pretty with some really good wine. The old favourites of Pikes and Skillogree were on our menu as well as a cooling ale at Knappstein, welcome relief as the temperature began to soar.
South Australia, established by free settlers showcases some amazing buildings. Mintaro, not far from Clare, is home to Martindale Hall.

Historic Martindale Hall

Built in 1879, by a 21 year old Edmund Bowman Jr, this princely home befits the ‘lord of the manor’ lifestyle he desired, after the death of his father. The home is filled with the trappings of a rich life, yet how they survived in the hot, dry South Australian conditions is beyond us.
With the mercury heading over 40, we made a beeline for Adelaide. Some good friends, with air conditioning, made a very welcome sight to us hot, weary travellers. We also shared the dawning of a new year with our hosts Tracey, Wayne and six year old Teagan, at a party hosted by Leanne. I first met Leanne at the age of 21 on a Contiki tour in Europe! Much laughter and old stories continued into the early hours of 2010.

Tracey and I at Bridgewater Mill, Adelaide Hills.
Teagan and lollypop!

Having not spent a great deal of time in Adelaide when last here in April, our hosts took us to some special spots in the Adelaide Hills and a lunch at Henley Beach, followed by an afternoon at Semaphore. Much of Adelaide is like the motherland and Semaphore has all the fan fare of an English seaside town. Teagan and I demonstrated our driving skills on the dodgem cars with lots of bumps and crashes.... ahh good times.

Teagan and Wayne at the cricket

No summer is complete without cricket and with a 20 Twenty game on at the Adelaide Oval, we set off for a night cheering on the Adelaide Redbacks. This historic oval is undergoing renovations, so the current capacity is about 17,000. With about 25,000 already through the gates, it was no wonder that we could not see any action unless we stood up on the hill. Still, the atmosphere made for a fun night out and of course Adelaide won.

Second Valley cove, Fleurieu Peninsula

With more friends to visit, we bade farewell to our generous hosts and journeyed down the Fleurieu Peninsula to Aldinga Beach. This peninsula is one of the best of South Australia’s areas for exploration. The sunburnt hills of the lower Mt Lofty Ranges seem to slide into the aqua ocean creating a vivid and contrasting landscape. With the sun setting over the ocean here Emily, Dave and I enjoyed a wine as we watched the day come to an end.

Emily and I at Noulangie

Taking a day trip further down the peninsula, we stopped at many secluded beaches before arriving at Victor Harbour, South Australia’s ‘Blackpool’. The harbour is protected from the Southern Ocean by Granite Island. A causeway connects the island to the mainland and you can either walk or take the horse drawn tram across.
Driving through historic Port Elliot we were now on our way to Goolwa and the point where Australia’s largest river enters the ocean. It was pretty cool to see the ‘end’ of the Murray, having now journeyed most of her length.

The Murray River meeting the ocean

All too soon, it was time to say goodbye to Emily and Paul, our Aldinga Beach hosts. Heading back to Adelaide we first stopped to snorkel at Port Noulangie. The Fleurieu Peninsula certainly delights, and is a nice spot to visit just south of the city.
Arriving back in the city our first stop was the seaside town of Glenelg. My maternal relatives emigrated here on the ‘Buffalo’. A replica of this ship now sits at the marina, but with so much development it is hard to imagine what their first impressions would have been.

Replica of the 'Buffalo' Glenelg

Making the pilgrimage to the ‘Old Gum Tree’, it was easier to imagine their first impressions. It was under this tree that South Australia was proclaimed on a hot, dry day similar to the day we were experiencing. The heat was unrelenting and I cannot believe they would have been ‘impressed’ with their new homeland.

What is left of the 'Old Gum Tree'

Fortunately, we had planned to meet up with Sam and Chris. In the air conditioned comfort of their home, we were saved from the 44 degrees outside. In fact, 4 days later we are still enjoying their company as we wait for the cool change and setting off for the Yorke Peninsula.

Merry Christmas to us!

2009-12-23T22:25:00.000-08:00

After 15 months of travelling Port Lincoln is one of our favourite spots. A visit to the Information Centre enabled us to pick up a key to enter Memory Cove, within the Lincoln National Park. This fragile, but beautiful area can only be accessed by a maximum of 10 cars a day. After battling the 4WD track, we reached the white sandy beach in a very tranquil cove. The area is reminiscent of Wineglass Bay in Tasmania, complete with orange lichen on the granite rocks.

Memory Cove, Lincoln National Park

However, the difference here is the wildlife. Sure there were plenty of roos and emus, but also a rouge sea lion. Turning our heads to investigate the slapping sound in the water we discovered it was said sea lion playing with a recently caught fish. As we watched he tossed the helpless creature in the air and then chased the stunned fish. After enjoying his play he then proceeded to devour his catch. Yet the most tantalising sea lion experience was yet to come. Hopping on board a boat we headed out to Blyth Island, which is protected from the Great Whites that frequent this area. As the engines were cut and we idled closer to shore, the colony of adolescent sea lions awoke from their slumber. Just like bored teenagers they came alive at the prospect of fun and literally bounded into the water to meet us.

Sea Lions everywhere!

Swimming closer to our new friends, it was quite evident that they mimicked our every move. If we did a tumble turn in the water, so did they. If we duck dove and stuck our flippers out of the water so did they. Some were shy and liked to just watch the shenanigans unfolding. I will never forget swimming over a bed of sea grass only to find a little pup trying to hide, his big puppy dog eyes watching my every move.

Underwater and face to face..... so cute

We soon became very comfortable in the water and Dave and I got chatting, taking a break from our swimming antics. With that ‘someone is staring at me feeling’ I looked to my left- ahhhh I was face to face with a sea lion! He had simply popped up, wanting to join in our conversation. Putting out our hands, our ‘friend’ nuzzled to say hello (probably hoping we had a fish). They really are the cutest creatures, and act just like naughty puppies. However, Port Lincoln is more famous for its tuna, so of course we should swim with these too. Wild tuna are caught far out at sea in the Great Australian Bight and brought in to be fattened up in pens. It was within one of these pens (purpose built for tourists, so not as heavily stocked) that we got to know the tuna a little more intimately. Well, that is Dave did. I refused to get in the water with these huge bullets of sheer muscle.

The 'big' tuna

From an underwater viewing platform, I watched as they darted around Dave, but did not run into him. We were given fish to feed the tuna and Dave bravely held one in his hand, whilst in the water. A big Daddy tuna spied this tasty morsel and made a beeline.

Click to see me feed a tuna!

Opening his mouth wide, he was right on track to chomp the fish...... and Dave’s hand. Dave said it felt like being hit by a hammer. It was only when he got out of the water and saw the blood, that he realised the razor sharp (yet tiny) teeth had penetrated the skin.

What a shot! Tuna about to chomp.....

Sashimi revenge. I’ll just stick to eating these fish. A day trip to Coffin Bay was the perfect place to chill after all the aquatic excitement. The area seems to have a certain gentleness about it. The day was hot, but at a deserted beach the calm powder blue bay waters soothed us.

G'day from Coffin Bay

This is a great ‘get away from it’ place, but evidently gets pretty crowded in January. With Christmas approaching we left Port Lincoln, with no real destination in mind. The Eyre Peninsula is made up of many bays, so we moseyed around them all until we wanted to settle for the night. We had thought of staying at Lucky Bay- that is until we arrived. Lucky Bay is no more than a shanty town, with a ramshackle assortment of dwellings lining the shoreline. Our drive led us to Whyalla. The Queen has visited here twice, so we thought it couldn’t be that bad. The town, much like Newcastle in Sydney is the second largest city in South Australia and a major steel producing centre. Towering chimneys, portworks and furnaces lurched into view, but with the temperature soaring, it was home. As the thermometer reached 43, we headed for the beach. The eternal flames from the gas plant close by burnt as we swam, yet the water was remarkably crystal clear. A little too clear for me with a sting ray skimming the sea bed all too vivid.

Mr Sting Ray....

Midnight brought a southerly wind and a welcome cool change. Enough to revive us to continue our journey. It was Christmas Eve and we decided to head to Port Pirie for Christmas Day. The road took us through Port Augusta. Memories flooded back. We had been here 8 months prior- the starting point of our outback odyssey north to Darwin. How much we have seen and done since then.

With the only pub open for Christmas Day in Port Pirie fully booked, we stocked up with a kilo of prawns, a dozen oysters and put the champers on ice.

Christmas Day picnic

Our eyes opened to a sunny Christmas day, while our ears heard all the tunes from the Oklahoma musical being sung live. Where was this coming from? More memories came flooding back- a local sings, while swimming in the river, every morning. It had been winter when we were last here and he had sung from the shore, but today he was swimming past our home. No wonder the tunes sounded a little 'gargled'.
Click on video to see the musical talent of Port Pirie....

Goodbye Western Australia

2009-12-17T22:04:00.001-08:00

After six months we were soon to bid farewell to Western Australia. She had been our home for what felt like such a long time, so it was a little sad to be leaving, but she had one last challenge for us- the Nullarbor Plain. We had spoken to many fellow travellers who had told us how ‘boring’ the drive was. However, having enjoyed the lonely Adelaide to Darwin miles, we thought this road trip would bring equal pleasure. How wrong we were. Crossing the Nullarbor is the most tedious, unrelenting drive to date.

Click to view 9 hours of the Nullarbor crossing compressed into 6 seconds!

After day 3 we had listened to all of our audio books and were seriously ‘over it’. However, we had been blessed with cool weather, which made gazing at the endless bush a little more comfortable. There is really not much to see as you cross the Nullarbor, so we made the most of all opportunities, like stopping to see a piece of Skylab at Balladonia.

Piece of Skylab, Balladonia

Back in 1979 Balladonia (which consists of a Roadhouse only) made world headlines when space debris from Skylab landed here. The then President of the US of A Jimmy Carter, even phoned to apologise! Back in the car we looked forward to our next stop- to see the Caiguna Blowhole. We knew the road ventured near the coast, so presumed we would soon have a cool ocean breeze fanning our faces. Ummm, we still had many miles to go before hitting the coast. The ‘Blowhole’ is a natural breathing hole for the one of the limestone caves that lies beneath the Nullarbor Plain.

Don't do it Dave... the Caiguna Blowhole

Actually, the entire plain is made of limestone- the world’s flattest piece, covering about 200,000 square kilometres. It is so dry out here that no cliffs or valleys have been weathered like elsewhere, imagine how different the Nullarbor could be! Caiguna also signified the start of Australia’s longest straight road- all 146.6 kilometres without the hint of a bend, or any real change in scenery.

Not even a slight bend for the next 90 miles

A sign told us we were now on Central Western time and to move our clocks forward 45 minutes, however time seemed to have no relevance out here. With first light at 3.50am and full sun by 4.30am for the past few months, it did mean we were now not getting up so early though. Onward to the Madura Pass it was, which is also the midway mark between Perth and Adelaide. At the top of the Pass we finally got a glimpse of the Southern Ocean- far off in the distance over the Roe Plains. Camp for the night was again in the bush. It is always interesting venturing off into the bush, with so many relics of past times and lives. We came across many abandoned old cars, hoping their owners had survived a little better.

My new car... a relic from the 50's

Even the buildings out here do not survive- the Eucla Telegraph Station which opened in 1877, is now being engulfed by sand dunes, soon to disappear forever.

Eucla Telegraph Station

Sand dunes? Yes, we had reached the Southern Ocean and the Great Australian Bight. The sheer drop of the towering cliffs of ‘The Bight’ was a WOW moment. We were standing on the edge of Australia, some vertical 90 metres above the pounding Southern Ocean below. The landscape was severe and so was the weather with strong winds wrapping us in a cold blanket.

Great Australian Bight

With such a harsh environment no one lives out here, so although we had now crossed the border into South Australia (and added another hour and 45 minutes to our clocks), it was another 460 kilometres before we had to say goodbye to our pot of herbs and contraband fruit and vegetables at Ceduna. We had done it, we had crossed the Nullarbor. Ahhhh, time to chill out at Streaky Bay. Streaky Bay was not the idyllic seaside town we had imagined, but did have one very cool drawcard- a colony of Sea Lions at Point Labatt. From a cliff top we had the perfect vantage point to watch the Sea Lions below.

Point Labatt Sea Lion colony

There were about 40 lolling about (I thought they looked dead, as they simply flopped in the sun and dozed). A few were playing in the water, some bubs were suckling from Mum and we even witnessed a couple of males having a play fight. Now recovered from our road trip, we were again on the move to Port Lincoln. The weather had been getting increasingly hotter, and the day we left was nearing 40. An impressive collection of inselbergs (weather sculptured granite outcrops), made us get out of the air conditioned car.

Murphy's Hastacks

As we walked around ‘Murphy’s Haystacks’ we were blasted with both the heat and a very hot, dry wind. We have never experienced weather this hot before. Fortunately we timed our arrival in Port Lincoln with the onset of a southerly- ahhh cool relief.

Sex in the City

2009-12-10T00:29:00.001-08:00

Kalgoorlie is another of those iconic Australian towns we were looking forward to visiting, and so began our journey to the desert. Having left Norseman, the closest town, it was a further 200 kilometres to our destination. Heading into the dry Australian bush, we noticed most of the trees were dead, some black from a fire, others seeming to have just given up. The overall look of death was contrasted by the new green growth at ground level, making the ‘skeleton scene’ quite beautiful. We were back in aboriginal land and decided to stop at Widgiemooltha for lunch, mainly because the name sounded cool. Opps, we blinked and missed the town and had to turn around. Only about 3 buildings here..... Our final pit stop was Coolgardie- once the ‘Mother of the Goldfields’, but now resembling a ghost town. The only reminder of how grand this town once was is the majestic exhibition building, now a very interesting museum.

Coolgardie Exhibition Building (our camper in right of pic)

As you enter the outskirts of Kalgoorlie, the first things you see are some seriously big houses. This town has money, but I guess that is what gold brings! With a long day behind us, we treated ourselves with a first for over 14 months- Dominos Pizza- yummo. Kalgoorlie is bigger than expected, actually everything here is big. The ‘Super Pit’ being beyond our wildest imaginations. We can thank Alan Bond for the sight that lay before us. He was the instigator that brought the individual mine leases together, to create the ‘Super Pit’.

The Super Pit! Note size of the trucks on road. See video below for pit in action

Now the largest working gold mine in the Southern Hemisphere, she will eventually be 3.8 km long, 1.35 km wide and 500 metres deep- although not far off that now! Twenty four hours a day and 365 days a year this massive wound is open for business. I am not able to put together the words to describe how big this thing is. Trucks the size of houses move hundreds of tons of rock a day, but look like mere toys viewed from our vantage point. The early minors did all this hard work by hand, and remnant shafts can be seen, scars in the sides of the pit. Extending about 270 degrees, the ‘Super Pit’ is only 400 metres from town. With so many men out here trying to strike it rich, the town also has a long history of prostitution and ‘Skimpy’s’- bar girls dressed in lingerie. The oldest brothel- Questa Casa is still in operation over 100 years later..... and open for tours.

Questa Casa- an historic brothel

Buzzing the door bell, we were soon inside the historic brothel. Some others were also there for the tour, but Dave was the only male. After a chat about the wild history and handling some ‘large’ sex toys, we off to the rooms. The first was a bondage parlour and the Madam soon had Dave spread eagle and strapped to the bed.

Bondage Dave

He was left that way until I kindly undid his restraints. Other rooms looked like every day bedrooms, if not a little over the top in decoration. In the last room Dave was once again our ‘model’. Simulating how the girls used to check for STD’s, he held a dildo ‘down there’ while the Madam first lightly scrapped her fingernails near his thighs (to see if they ended up with crabs or lice in them), and then examined the now ‘hard’ member for warts. Glad I don’t have that job...... However, a buzz at the door alerted us to some potential customers. Not yet open for business for the night they were sent away. I couldn’t resist seeing what these men looked like though and as I stuck my head out of the bedroom they saw me, not sure what they thought of the quality of the girls.......

Once a railway Station was here, Kanowna

Not wanting to make money ‘that way’ it was off to the gold mines again. This time we travelled 18 kilometres east to the ghost town of Kanowna.
Another big pit is still in operation here, but all that is left of the once thriving town is the cemetery. Mind you, even areas between the graves were open to claims and excavation. For once people were keen to dig holes in a cemetery.

Kalgoorlie Town Hall

The wealth and beauty of Kalgoorlie can still be seen in the main street. Taking a guided tour of the Town Hall, we were left in awe of this 101 year old building. The history is preserved and the prestige maintained. I even got to sit in the Mayor’s chair, still used to this day.

Sitting in the Mayor's chair

But it was the theatre that had us spellbound with its old world charm and original features. A trip to Kal is not complete without trying your luck. At the Prospectors and Miners Hall of Fame, we panned for gold. I soon got bored, however Dave struck gold! (Even if it was only about a dollar’s worth).

Real gold nuggets!

Never mind, he took me to the museum where I got to see about $4,000,000 worth up close.

Camper Capers

Parallel, By Leisa Chell- now available!

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Parallel by Leisa Chell is now available! What is it all about- Ever wanted to get off the work treadmill? Ever wanted to just run away?

Printed in Australia, Parallel is available direct from the ‘first time’ author, Leisa Chell. Payment can be made by cheque or bank deposit. Email leisachell@hotmail.com for details.

Printed in Australia, Parallel is available direct from the ‘first time’ author, Leisa Chell. Payment can be made by cheque or bank deposit. Email leisachell@hotmail.com for details.

Top 5- 'Only in Australia'

Some of the great 'views' of Australia

Goodbye

Green Fields

This side of the Black Stump

Digging for Dinosaurs

Sunny Savannah

Sunny smiles

Rest and recreation

Tip Top

Open and closed

Wet and wild

Love and hate

Easy Easter

Towards the sun

Wet, Wet, Wet

Goodbye Sydney Town

Home Stretch

Sounds of Silence

Hot and Cold

Summer Lovin

Merry Christmas to us!

Goodbye Western Australia

Sex in the City

Parallel by Leisa Chell is now available!

What is it all about-

Ever wanted to get off the work treadmill?

Ever wanted to just run away?