So far we didn’t touch much on stabilizers (gimbals), but in near future we will talk more about Multicopters and their image stabilizations and off course ground videos and their stabilization (gimbals), thus I think it is very interesting to prepare yourself and find out more about one of the best companies for stabilizing your camera/s.

Gudsen MOZA to Show New Products at IBC Show Including the New MOZA Pro and the New MOZA Mini Gimbal

Gudsen is best known for its MOZA camera stabilizers. It started out with 3-axis handheld gimbal and already successfully launched the MOZA Gimbals since 2014. Gudsen Technology is attending the IBC Show 2016 in RAI AMSTERDAM and show some new camera stabilizers, including the MOZA Lite 2 and MOZA Pro for professional film production, the MOZA Mini-G GoPro gimbal, MOZA Mini-C for smartphones, and MOZA A7 camera cage.

MOZA Mini-G

Official page: http://www.gudsen.com/moza-mini-g.html

MOZA Mini-G is a 3-axis handheld and wearable GoPro gimbal that is designed to capture smooth videos. It features a detachable handgrip and wearable kit for easy switching from handheld to wearable mode. It gives full control of the gimbal movements and shooting modes via the handgrip and MOZA Assistant App. The gimbal has been designed to be versatile and can be mounted to helmets, bike, human body and on-vehicle holders. Diverse shooting modes like vertical shooting and selfie make it fit for different shooting scenes.

• Compatible with GoPro HERO5/4/ 3+/ 3, Xiaoyi action camera;
• 360° rotation on all 3 axis (Yaw/Pitch/Roll) to unleash your shooting;
• Tool-free and modular design for quick assembly;
• Remote control of the gimbal movement via handgrip with 5-direction joystick;
• Wearable kit for mounting on a helmet, human body and bicycle;
• 3 operation modes and 3 follow modes for different shooting scenes;
• Video transmitter for real-time viewing on the monitor or your smartphone;
• Selfie-taking mode via the handgrip or the MOZA App;
• Mounting to a tripod, slider, and crane with the ¼ screw thread;
• Wireless control on the mobile via Bluetooth connection;
• Intelligent battery to work for over 4hrs and supply power to the GoPro;

MOZA Mini-C

Official page: http://www.gudsen.com/moza-mini-c.html

MOZA Mini-C is a handheld and wearable gimbal stabilizer for smartphones. It has been designed to support most recent smartphone models that can create professional-level cinematic shots.

An All-in-One Handheld and Wearable Stabilizer for Smartphones

• Compatible with all iPhone models and the most Android phones;
• Quick release system to detach the handgrip and the wearable kit;
• Vertical shooting mode for live stream;
• Smart control of the gimbal movement and shooting via the handgrip and MOZA App;
• Wearable kit for mounting on a helmet, car and bicycle;
• External power supply to the gimbal with a 5V outport;
• Diverse operation modes and follow modes for different shooting scenes;
• Time-lapse and panoramas shooting with the handgrip and MOZA App;
• Unique design to protect your phone;

MOZA Lite 2

Official page: http://www.gudsen.com/moza-lite.html

MOZA Lite 2  is a 3-axis handheld gimbal that is designed to support mirrorless cameras, DSLRs and small cinema cameras including Sony A7 series, Panasonic GH4, BMCC, Canon 5D Mark III, and Red Scarlet with a max payload of 11.0 lbs(5.0 kg). It utilizes powerful PMSM motors with high resolution encoders to provide precision control, combining advanced FOC algorithms. With an optional wireless thumb controller, the user can control the gimbal movements, camera recording, operation modes, and parameter adjustment.

Key Features:

• Lightweight magnesium alloy construction of 4.8 lbs(2.2 kgs);
• Max payload of 11.0 lbs(5.0kg) to support a wide range of cameras;
• Multi-functional wireless thumb controller for wireless control and tuning settings;
• Intelligent battery with 2800mAh capacity to work for 4~8 hours;
• Automobile-grade powerful motors with high resolution encoders to deliver incredible stabilization performance;
• Tool-free modular design for fast setup and balance;
• MOZA Assistant App and Software for parameter adjustment and firmware upgrade;
• Universal UAV mount for adapting to a tripod, drone, slider and crane;
• Collapsible stand to hold the gimbal;

MOZA Pro

Official page: http://www.gudsen.com/moza-pro.html

MOZA Pro is a 3-axis handheld stabilizer designed for professional cinematography and filmmaking production. With a max payload of 22 lbs (10.0 kgs), it can support cameras ranging DSLRs to heavy cinema cameras like the Canon C100/C300, BMCC, SONY FS5 and RED series.

Key Features:

• Motorized 3-axis gimbal for Sony FS5, BMD USRA Mini , RED series, and ARRI Alexa Mini
• Max payload of 22 lbs (10.0 kgs) to support heavy cinema cameras
• Versatile wireless thumb controller for camera, gimbal control and turning settings
• Precision control with the latest FOC algorithms and powerful motors
• Fast setup and balance in 3 minutes
• Intelligent battery with 2800mAh capacity to film for 4hrs
• Power distribution unit to power your follow focus and video transmitter
• MOZA Assistant App and Software for parameter adjustment and firmware upgrade

MOZA A7 Cage

Official page: http://www.gudsen.com/moza-a7-cage.html

MOZA A7 cage is a form-fitted camera cage designed to support the Sony a7S, a7SII, a7R, and a7RII that features a multifunctional handgrip with remote control and power supply system. The user can access to control the start/stop recording, camera focus and shutter through tapping buttons on the grip, without touching the camera directly. An in-handgrip battery with a 4800mAh capacity supplies additional power to the camera to prolong the shooting project. Other accessories like cable clamp and rodriser make it convenient for mounting accessories easily.

Key Features:

• Formfitting design to support all Sony A7 Series
• Full control of camera recording, shuttering and focusing with the handgrip
• In-handgrip battery with 3400mAh to supply power to the camera
• One-touch cable clamp to secure all accessory cable from releasing
• 1/4″and 3/8″ accessory mounting threads and dual cold shoes for full expansion
• Adjustable rodriser for easy adjustment of the camera lens and focusing rods
• Compatible with Manfrotto camera plate

About Gudsen

Invented for video, Gudsen is a professional manufacturer of innovative camera accessories. We are passionate about pushing the technology limit to provide the video-making professionals with the complete solutions to capture the amazingly smooth videos. Our product line ranges from 3-axis handheld gimbal stabilizers, wireless video transmitters, to camera cages and follow focus devices.  We have successfully launched a series of MOZA gimbals that support an extensive range of cameras.

For more information, please visit MOZA homepage: http://www.gudsen.com/

Conclusion

Yes there are other companies that have great gimbals and we will touch them in our future posts. Till then check out Moza gimbals which are one of the finest there is. Hope to get hands on one of the DSLR gimbals for detailed review.

The post Gudsen MOZA on IBC Show appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

So no matter which side you lean on or promote, I will help you to decide in which direction to go.

I believe this whole article works for all batteries out there, not just Canon or smartphones. Nikon users should as well read this article.

iPhone 4s high capacity battery

It all started with iphone 4s, an old phone that I had, with a very bad battery which didn’t last throughout the whole day. So I found a replacement battery on ebay of course. The seller claimed that the battery had 2680mAh capacity. That means almost 2 times more capacity than the original 1432mAh. I said why not, it said 100% true capacity, 75% more usage time… Bla bla…

I put the battery into the phone and after just one day saw no improvement, even seamed like battery cycle was shorter. So I decided to measure the real capacity.

As  Jan and I are working on Multicopter stuff, from zero to fly (a huge article that we are making), we have a somewhat professional charger for all kinds of batteries. We discharged the battery completely and measured how much electricity went in. It filled up with 1290mAh!

It didn’t cross my mind to tear off the golden sticker that said 2680mAh, but Jan got to that idea and guess what, underneath was just a normal, 1430mAh black battery.

I was so pissed, so I reported it to the seller, of course I got a refund without needing to return the “goods”. But I can’t believe that people are cheating like that, and what I really can’t believe is that people still buy that and post positive comments, like they see improvements while truth is opposite??? Or sellers go with the flow, that even if people complain, they will leave them batteries in return for 5 star feedback!

DSLR Batteries

Are DSLRs a different story or not?

I have Canon 5D Mark II with LP-E6 battery in it. The original battery has 1800mAh and you may be aware how much you can shoot with it. For shooting a video it lasts around 2 hours. I put 16GB CF card into the camera and started video recording. After the card was full, I was able to record even more. The Magic Lantern said there was still around 45% juice left.

Similar story like with the smartphone, I can’t rely on one battery for the whole shooting, so I decided to get higher capacity third party (checked) batteries, which people have mentioned and promoted on the forums. So I got to Opteka batteries. Again I saw an ebay seller that had them, and saw even “better” batteries from the same seller, but different brand: Photomate. 5 years warranty, 2800mAh. I said wow, that’s it, amazing.

So I bought 3 of those from an experienced seller which has over 235.000 sold items and rating above 99%. You would say that is good, at least I consider myself an experienced ebay buyer and I always look at ratings and selling numbers…

Here is the description in full from the ebay seller:

“We have worked hard to give you the finest quality Canon LP-E6 replacement battery available. PhotoMate LP-E6 2800mAh battery is made to exceed the OEM charging capacity. It features lithium technology, which ensures maximum battery life and maximum power. It also features no memory effect that lets you recharge partially drained batteries without reducing performance. This battery is compact and lightweight. It is guaranteed to work as well as your original battery. Compatible with original manufacturer equipments and chargers. Quality, functionality, and construction of this battery is excellent. 5 Year Full Warranty.”

With those 3 batteries I got the “Rapid” Charger from Opteka and some other nifty unnecessary gadgets.

Lesson learned with iphone “high” capacity batteries, I said I will test them right away. I put in the DSLR one of the three batteries I bought and discharged them until my 5D Mk II turned off. After that I used the battery charger to discharge them even more, down to 6V (if you didn’t know those batteries are 2 cells, 3.6V x 2, 7.2V, and min voltage is 6V). It drained out a bit more juice, around 350mAh.

And then there was the charge process. I must admit I expected 2000mAh, but the battery was fully charged at 1339mAh, so I decided to test my 2-3 years old original LP-E6 battery that I got with my Canon 5D Mark II DSLR.

Same process:

1. Discharge with camera.
2. Discharge on charger.
3. Charge on charger
4. Fully charged at 1860mAh!

And what a surprise! After 3 years (battery used since 2014, produced in 2013), it still charges to 100% and even a bit more than declared capacity!!!

To test it even further, I charged the PhotoMate battery to 100% and then recorded a video. It did record four 12 min videos, filled 16GB CF card, and after I formatted the card and started a new cycle, it recorded 7 more minutes, and then my DSLR shut down.

Of course, the seller on ebay said that he had no intention to cheat, that there has to be a mistake, so I tested other batteries, and oh, boy, was I right. Same story, low capacity and one of the batteries can’t even fit into my DSLR, it just doesn’t click.

So I took some time and investigated Photomate website and company, and my opinion is that this is a completely fake brand (website, company). Why do I think so?

No about us! No contact information! No RMA (return policy). Capacity is written on the little sticker on the box (so they can change it for other batteries they sell). Half of the website is empty, coming soon, not something that a serious company would allow to happen. Contact form not working at all, at least no message nor e-mail confirmation.

With batteries I got the Opteka charger, they call it: “Rapid charger”. It’s a charger with an output of 600mA, while the original Canon charger (not rapid), has a 1.2A output. It’s 2 times more powerful.

I’m still eager to find out does Opteka have true, high capacity batteries, or is that as well just a hoax, which I believe is the case, based on their “Rapid” charger.

So my conclusion is, even if real high capacity third party batteries exist, you will most likely buy 10 fake ones before you find them.

In search for high capacity batteries for my 5D Mk II, I found this interesting battery on AliExpress website.

So tell me, is this a 2200mAh battery? Or you saw a little description which says, real capacity: 1200mAh. I must admit, I missed it out, and asked the seller is this really 2200mAh. The seller was so kind to tell me that it is fake 2200, real 1200 as in description, so kind of him :)

The post High Capacity DSLR or Smartphone Batteries (fake or true)? appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

Introduction

Simplest explanation what is a light meter can be found on Wikipedia off course.

First of all I am not one of those Photographers that reach out for a light meter for every single occasion, probably most of professional photographers doesn’t do it either. But on other hand, we all get to situation where conditions make us make wrong shots and afterwords trying to fix impossible. In those situations light meter could help.

Still, big question is: Do you really need a Light Meter?

And if you decided that you do, which one to get?

So I will try to help you out with choice and review one light meter that I got: LUMU Light Meter for iOS and some Android Smartphones.

Light Meter vs In Camera Meter

You might be professional photographer that knows every single time for every single shoot which exposure and aperture to set. Today, DSLR cameras let us take images much simpler and more affordable than before. If you don’t like image that you took, you can do many actions: erase, take new shot to replace old one, change settings, easily edit photo in post process without loss of quality, especially if you take as all pro’s photos in RAW format.

Canon and I believe other brands have similar inside Light Metering system. For example Canon 5D Mk II and MK III have 4 modes:

Do you need a Light Meter?

Simply put if you managed your ways before, without one, you could carry on without it, which is a simple and true fact. But having one has its pros, you can’t have cons owning one, as you could always use your in camera metering.

There is no right or wrong way. You should find what best suits you. If you are shooting on setup where light is constant and there are no shiny objects, you should go right away with a light meter.

What I like to do is to always measure light with a light meter where I have a constant light, that way I learn about light. And in cases when even light meter doesn’t help, you always have starting point.

What I love about light meters is that it helps me get to perfect exposure in less time than trial and error technique and as said above, it helps me learn the light and setup my camera settings faster and better every single time.

When and why to use a Light Meter

I will not go deep into what and how light meters work, simple definition would be that your DSLR camera measures light from reflections of your scenery while light meter measures incident, direct light from direction where you point it.

There are different versions of light meters, with many functions and capabilities, most of stand alone light meters measure strobes/flash and constant light, with option to calculate average from more measurements, to save measurements etc.

In situations where you have extremes, or above or under average brightness your camera will try to compensate it, leaving us with sometimes over or under exposed images. To get it in the middle or where we want it, we would need to measure light differently or at least adjust camera settings manually, because camera doesn’t know what we want.

Differences between LUMU and other light meters

First of all LUMU is not stand-alone device, you should have Apple or Android phone with you. LUMU does all measuring and iphone (ipad and other devices) do all calculations and interaction with you.

Lumu Features:

LUMU Pros

LUMU Cons

LUMU is very small, comes in professional package, very well build casing, and it has small lather bag to keep it safe, comes with neck strap while you are on set and with free app for your Apple or Android device. There is no light meter that can match LUMU for the price.

Detailed test with 7 different scenes

I made over 70 images and went through all metering options of Canon 5D Mark II and couple of metering options with LUMU light meter.

Test was repeated at least 2 times for different scene but same conditions.

During this test I found out one more little CON for LUMU light meter, when you input wrong settings, like I did, f2.8, ISO 160, and tried to measure direct sunlight in the noon, LUMU app couldn’t measure it, it showed me f64, 1/8000 and ISO 160, which is impossible. It made me think that direct sun light is too bright and that I can’t use it. But I tried to change f-stop and tried again, and it solved mystery. I bet they could solve it by software, if for desired f-stop measurement is impossible, it should show first one that is possible or at least tell you to change any of the settings.

After change f-stop to f6.3, it measured 1/2000 for ISO160 for direct sunlight.

For most of the testing I used f2.8 except for ones where I had to measure direct sunlight in “Photo” LUMU mode, as you know LUMU has as well “Multi” option, where you can get average of multiple measurements, in this mode, it worked even for f2.8 if I measured first darker area then direct sunlight.

All tests were on same ISO160 setting. Around noon, Summer day (extreme condition not ideal to take any shots at all).

One more note to bare in mind, for LUMU it is not important where is your focus point with DSLR, while for DSLR it is important where you point your camera, as it takes, measures reflections more center weighted.

So here is my opinion and results I got from 7 test:

1. Dark scene at f2.8

Scene where I covered whole frame with dark tree bark or soil with fallen brown leaves.

LUMU measured 1/200 at f2.8 and ISO160 in Photo mode, while all Canon 5D Mark II metering measurements were same, 1/30.

So if we compare images that I took, we would get dark image taken with LUMU settings and much brighter (+2.33 stops brigther) taken with all metering camera settings.

With 100mm f2.8 lens, it would be almost impossible to get handheld shot with any of metering readings, while 1/200 which LUMU measured is spot on, hand held shot, plus I was able to add that +2.35 exposure in Lightroom to get exactly same brightness like 1/30 shot if I wanted, without quality loss.

Winner: LUMU

Note: Repeated test, shoot towards soil and fallen leaves,  got very similar results as above.

2. Bright Scene at f6.3

Scene where complete framing was pointed towards bright background, in my case I pointed it to concrete that was under direct sun light.

First measurement was faulty one, from LUMU, where I thought that I will not be able to measure light from direct sun light, as it gave me this weird result f64, 1/800 at ISO 160, just later on I figured out that it works just fine for smaller apertures like for example f6.3 which usually I use the most.

I made Multi measure (average from shadow, direct sun light and reflection of the concrete), got 1/3200, for f2.8

Measurement from DSLR was same for all metering options and was 1/6400.

DSLR saw concrete as too bright and made it look darker than it is, one stop darker than LUUMU. By my opinion LUMU was if not perfect spot on, very close to what it looked a like with bare eyes.

I made 2^nd run for this test and repeated process on my balcony, made shot of my notes on the white paper.

With LUMU I got readings: 1/2000 shutter for f6.3 while DSLR results were not completely same all were darker than it should be, 1/4000 and 1/8000.

Winner: LUMU

3. 50% Bright / 50% Dark Scene

I didn’t want to use black and white paper; as such test exists on youtube already. Yes it would be perfect example for Bride and Groom.

Focused on border between bright and dark (shadow), and in real case scenario you would not focus between bride and groom, or maybe not focus but measure light.

For this test as above I thought at first that LUMU couldn’t measure direct sunlight so I made multiple measurements, one from the shadow, one from direct sunlight and one above concrete LUMU turned towards ground (concrete and shadow light reflections), got 1/2000 and DSLR results were mixed, either 1/3200 or 1/2500.

All images were good, but LUMU one looks closest to what our bare eye can see. All images could be post processed in Lightroom or Photoshop without quality loss.

Repeated results were similar too, but difference is that I made two LUMU measurements, one from direct sunlight and other with multiple measurements (shadow + sun). On this test LUMU and in camera metering system were very similar. With direct sun light LUMU measurement I got few dots of complete black that cannot be saved in post process if you expose photo or shadows, while multi result was same as in camera metering, except spot metering, where it really depends where you point your camera, more to the darker or lighter side. Off course I could turn LUMU vertically, like my camera is pointing to the subject, I would get more precise measurement.

Winner: Tie

Little hint for Bride and Groom, you can always meter light on one then other with Spot Metering, and try to find middle or even slightly under exposed image.

Goal is to make groom suit to be almost dark but not completely black (bit under-expose image), you can correct it and adjust it in post process. If groom goes too dark (black) or bride goes too bright (white), you can’t save it later, no matter what you do, you will wash out colors, best thing if it happens, only if you have to, to put that image in BW.

4. Bright subject darker background

For this test I pointed DSLR into satellite dish with dark background.

LUMU multi measure: (direct sunlight and one in shadow), got 1/2000.

DSLR had all readings different between each other: 1/4000, 1/8000. 1/8000, 1/2500. Last one is center-weighted average [     ]. Most correct compared to bare eye was LUMU multi and closest to natural look from DSLR was center-weighted average, rest was too dark.

For repeated test I put T-shirt partially on the sun, while rest of the t-shirt and background was in shadow, this is extreme condition, as we have pure white and almost black.

LUMU measured on pure sun 1/2000 for f6.3, few completely black dots in bottom right corner, multi measurement from LUMU said: 1/400, few hot-spots on T-shirt, nothing that looks un-natural.

DSLR on other hand had measurements: 1/800, 1/800, 1/6400, 1/1000. Weird, but 1/2000 from LUMU had less under-exposed dots unlike 1/800 measured from camera, probably conditions changed, results were very similar. Except 1/6400 for spot metering, which was complete miss. Again center-weighted average metering was most precise and closest to LUMU metering.

Winner: Tie

( between LUMU Multi option and DSLR center-weighted average metering [     ] )

5. Dark subject lighter background f6.3

I put Rebel T2i (550D) on the balcony concrete, where sun was shining hard.

To measure light strength with a light meter, I put LUMU on top of the DSLR, and got 1/2000 for the shutter.

Multi metering was 1/800 (one direct sun light and one reflection from balcony concrete).

Camera metering as follows: 1/400, 1/400, 1/320, 1/800

I find on this test all Canon metering more correct than LUMU “Photo”, one measurement.

There were couple completely black dots, shadow under flash bump for 1 measurement from direct light, so I had to take Multi as the one to compare with Canon 5D Mark II metering system.

Again center-weighted average was on the spot and par with LUMU multi metering, and it is much easier to dial [     ] metering on the camera than setup LUMU and measure.

Winner: Tie

(Slight advantage towards DSLR only for center-weighted average [     ] because of simplicity)

6. Normal Landscape with a focus on the bright area

For this test, I put white T-shirt on balcony and made couple of measurements with LUMU light meter. 1st pure sunlight, 1/2000, and two Multi measurements: 1st 1/500 (direct sunlight + in shadow towards camera) 2nd 1/320 (direct sunlight, shadow towards camera and direction from camera towards T-shirt. Obviously 1/2000 is correct exposure for white T-shirt on balcony. But rest of the image was too dark. Image could be saved with lowering Highlights and increasing Exposure in Lightroom.

DSLR (5D Mark II), had very different results between each other. First Evaluative Metering was same as 2nd LUMU Multi, 1/500. Rest was 1/1600, 1/3200 and last not savable 1/320.

Note: Results would vary for amount of bright area in the frame. T-shirt was relatively small compared to whole frame, but was enough to put whole center (focus dot) inside white area. This is very good example where light meters ease up workflow.

Winner: LUMU

7. Normal Landscape with a focus on the dark area

Same scene as above, just focused on the area in the shadow and then repositioned camera for framing.

LUMU readings were as above (1/2000, 1/500 and 1/320). Canon metering readings were: 1/50, 1/40, 1/40, 1/100

It really depends where is your focus point and how big is contrast between bright and dark area.

Winner: LUMU

Note: Another example where LUMU is clear winner. While in some cases you might get right exposure from your camera, it is really hit and miss in extreme conditions.

Test Conclusion:

You should take in consideration that I took extreme conditions as example. For less contrast light conditions in camera metering would give almost identical if not identical numbers as LUMU or any other light meter would do.

We should not compare in camera metering with external light meters, as good or bad, both have their advantages and disadvantages.

For professional work, you should do both, in camera metering and light meter and compare results on your computer, to see if you have any area where you lose colors or details. Once you get to know your equipment, you would find that perfect exposure more accurate and faster than before. Overall, you should learn about light!

For everyday shooting you would most probably skip using Light Meter, but for professional work where scenes are more demanding, trust me it is easier to take out LUMU and make multi measurements to be sure you nail that sweet spot.

Final Thoughts about LUMU

The post LUMU – Smartphone Light Meter for your DSLR – Review appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

The Genie! A simple and extremely easy to use device used for motion control and image capture Time Lapse Photography and Videos made by Syrp company.

The key to Genie is that it can be used with any existing film equipment on tthe rehe market, including Tripods, Sliders, Jib Arms, cable cams, custom platforms or even your office chair!

Specifications

Dimensions

L: 102mm
W: 102mm
H: 102mm

Movement Speed

Linear – 100cm / 25 Sec
Panning – 360 degrees / 8 Sec.

Battery Life

7 hours or more – run time – based on a time-lapse recording running for 7 hours straight on a horizontal track. Note: Battery life will vary according to other factors, such as how much weight is used on the device, whether it’s used in time lapse or video mode and whether the Genie is being used for incline movement. In video mode the battery will deplete quicker compared to the time-lapse.

Charge Time

3 hours

Check out Genie Video review

Menu

When you turn your Genie on, holding the OK button for around 2 secs, you will get to Recording Mode menu.
Menu is simple, but yet it has many settings that you can change and adjust.

To turn off Genie you need to hold the OK button for 4-5 secs.

Although the menu is simple and easy to use, it would be very cool to see some extra options to make it even easier. To put link to Auto Start options in regular (simple) menu. Otherwise, I find it very simple and easy to use and navigate through.

Presets

Out of the box, Genie offers a couple of already made Presets, which you can edit, and save as your own or just make new Presets by your needs.

I love preset option – so easy to edit already made or make completely new presets. With presets you can spend more time for other things like framing, and gear, and less about controlling or movement of your camera. With already prepared Preset, and setup, you can run in seconds.

In Practice

Time Lapse Mode

In TL mode, Genie triggers your camera and does all needed calculations for you; all you have to do is plan TL up front to get the best results.

Depending on your scenery, usually sliding is only visible and interesting when there is something closer and something more distant in the same frame, otherwise you will not get that movement effect you desire. Closer objects might stutter because of the simple reason; too big steps (distance) between shots.

Direct impact on smoothness is the movement distance that Camera makes between two shots.

Slide mode:

Slide/Linear mode is used when you attach Rope Extension to Genie. There are different rope lengths from which you can pick. Genie fits on dolly, almost all tripods, and it has standard 3/8 thread for tripod heads.

There are two important things for using Genie on slider:

1. Most important thing is to keep rope tension high, especially for incline.
2. To secure position of your slider when you use tripod. (Genie with Camera and Lens attached is quite heavy, thus you need some counter balance, otherwise you could break your video head, or your whole setup could fall)

Shutter speed

Common rule for Video is to set Shutter Speed to 2x fps or closest shutter speed your camera can do, and for Time-Lapse it depends how sharp you want your subject to be. If you want sharp waterfall, or any other fast movements, your shutter speed should be faster.

Explanation of movements between 2 frames

I use a Konova K2 1m slider, but the sliding area is somewhere around 85cm.

In my example I’ll take the sliding area of the whole slider to be same as the slider length 1000mm (1 meter).

D= distance = 1000 millimeters

FPS – frames per second for movie playing

PT – Play Time – how long will video be in post-production

Two parameters above directly impact distance between shots: pre-defined FPS and PT. Play time multiplied by frame rate will give you number of shots.

3 seconds play time = 3 x 30 = 90 shots, 90 shots for movement of 1 meter = 11.11 mm after each shot

5 seconds play time = 5 x 30 = 150 shots, 150 shots for 1 meter = 6.66 millimeters after each shot.

IT – Interval time is not important for distance but it could be important for Camera shake and for calculating ideal time-lapse, fast intervals could fill your buffer, thus impossible to make smooth timelapse.

Facts about Genie and Time-Lapse mode:

• More shots your Camera takes finer post process changes could be
• More shots it takes, smaller movements it does, less stutter
• More shots it takes, longer shooting time
• More shots it takes, you get scenery in slower motion (easy to speed up in post process)
• Interval doesn’t change number of shots
• Interval doesn’t affect moving effect and stuttering for close objects
• Fast interval could fill up your buffer (especially with RAW files) and thus skip some important shots
• Fast intervals, mean more shaking for moving and stopping
• Smaller movements Genie makes, less stuttering is visible in the final footage.

Example of TL – shadows

On above footage we see slow vs fast changes, shadows move slow and trees move unnatural cause of small breeze. Best solution would be to take time-lapse during very calm day, which is almost impossible on mountains.

Example of TL – clouds

Shadows move slow, movements are visible when you connect frames that are around 10-15 seconds apart. Clouds in most cases move 4-5 times faster, and you can see movement with bare eyes, thus interval is around 1-3 Sec between shots.

For changes to look slower on your footage you need to take faster intervals, more shots, meaning change would happen slower, or for the opposite effect, to speed up event, bigger intervals, change would happen faster, but you need to be careful on the fast side, not to go outside range, as you would get stuttering (missing movement, cause you had too long period between shots) and your object moved too much between frames.

Longer the shutter speed, more connected movements look alike, you get that “ghosting”, compared to fast shutter where you get sharp subjects and quirky movements.

Example of TimeLapse that stutterers (on purpose made time-lapse, with bigger distance between frames):

Genie Time-Lapse without stutter:

(if you do see stuttering on this video, it is cause of hardware, youtube, or any other cause, on mine PC and video youtube manager it was perfectly smooth)

When you have close objects to the camera, stuttering can occur on smaller gaps between frames.

Rotation mode:

Basically everything mentioned above works here as well. The only difference is that you have different kind of movement. In video mode, Genie  at maximum power can spin 360 degrees in 6 seconds, while on horizontal sliding it would take a minimum of 15-20 seconds to move 1 meter. Movements in Rotation mode should be slower, to avoid quirks and stuttering, and you don’t want your head to hurt.

Video Mode

In video mode, you don’t have to plug in your Genie into the Camera.

Starting video is simple and possible in couple of button clicks. Genie starts right after you click the button to start it. Let’s say we started video, and want Genie to start sliding on our slider, thing is that we need to touch Genie, push the button and thus shake whole rig. It is fastest to discard first couple of seconds of every single video and time-lapse, or better solution would be to postpone start of the video, Genie has Auto start menu, where you can pick Countdown or exact Date and Time when you want Genie to start, how many times to repeat movement, what to do after it’s done.

The best way to do video with Genie is to use timer on your camera with Magic Lantern or internal/external intervalometer and use Genie Auto-start setting to start moving couple of seconds after your camera starts recording.

Syrp made Genie more as a time-lapse device, so with Video you need to be really patient and know what you want and how to make it. When we talk about video, “less is more”, less stuff goes on the Genie, less shaking and smoother footage would be. The quality of your video depends on couple factors:

• Most important is rope tension, higher tension, less stuttering there will be
• Surface on which your Genie rides (slider, dolly, some custom platform …)
• Weight mounted on the Genie (ball or video fluid heads, camera, grip,lens,…), less is better
•  The speed of the movement, faster means more visible shaking, start and stop are the most shaky parts, so you should use Ease In/Out option.
• Other factors: wind, shaking, walking on the same surface as your setup, touching the camera or Genie, rope shaking, …

Ideas for Genie usage:

I bet nobody thought of this, even people at Syrp, but Genie is more than Time-lapse + Video device. You can use Genie as a turntable for plant growth time-lapses, or for any 360° product photography or videography, just make your own DIY plate with screw mount that Genie has (3/8), and Genie will turn that plate on top of which you can put any device, plant and shoot time-lapse or video, while Genie turns “table” plate.

Genie can be mounted on gliding platform that can go over the canyon, between trees, between buildings etc. You can buy cheap Quadcopter Carbon frame and use it as Genie platform, to glide Genie on bigger heights between trees, over rivers, or buildings, etc. Whole setup is not so light, as Genie + Camera can weight more than 13lbs ~ 6kg. The tension of the cable/rope + wind would play a huge role in the whole setup.

Just imagine time-lape over river, no Quadcopter or any flying RC device could make those time-lapses.

Genie Pros

Genie Cons

Why I didn’t put ‘heavy’ under Cons ? Because I believe that power is in the motor, which is very strong and heavy.

Most common issues with video footages are Judder/Stuttering/Flicker

If you are into video, it is almost certain that you got to one of this issues, that are so common.

Judder

Easiest to explain judder would be as the motion stutter that happens from the telecine pull-down process when transferring film to video, or in modern days, I would say when your source and output frame rates don’t match. For After Effects go to your footage, click right click then Interpret Footage-> Main -> And enter same frame rate as source, after that make sure that you export your video with same frame rate.

Stutter

In short, as I already explained it above. Happens when frame rate is too low in video, or in time-lapses, when there is too big gap between two neighbor frames, objects pass some distance in between, feels like they jumped.

Flicker

Cause are either too low frame rate or ambient light frequency that doesn’t match your frame rate. Best examples are shooting under 50Hz light with 30fps, or shooting with 24-25fps under 60Hz light source.

Price of The Genie

Genie cost around $900, but you basically get more than one device for price of one. With amazing support, firmware upgrades, build quality, I see Genie as long term investment. Make stunning video footage’s that will impress all viewers. If you already own Genie, please share your work with us.

Get your Genie now.

Conclusion

I was always wondering how they made those sliding time-lapses, and Genie is the best answer to it. Genie is a truly amazing device that can help you make unbelievable video footage (timelapse or video). With extensions, build quality, easy of use, mounting options (versatility), the possibilities are endless with Genie.

Search for more videos made by use of Genie, and I bet you would be impressed just like I was.

The post Syrp Genie – Camera Motion Controller – Review appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

Check it out and help them to launch this great product to the market.

Check it out and help them out: Kickstarter Campaign for MIOPS

The post MIOPS: Smartphone Controllable High Speed Camera Trigger appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

Sony SLT-A77 II key specifications (dpreview.com):

• 24MP CMOS Sensor with gap-less, offset microlenses
• 12fps continuous shooting with autofocus (up to 60 JPEGs)
• 79 point AF module with 15 cross-type AF points, covering 40% of frame
• Increased control over AF behavior
• 1080p60 movies with autofocus
• Audio level monitoring during movie shooting
• 2.4M dot OLED viewfinder
• Pull-out three-hinge tilt/swivel 1.23m dot White Magic LCD screen
• Built-in Wi-Fi with NFC
• 1/8000th maximum shutter speed, shutter rated for 150,000 actuations
• ISO 100 – 25,600 (Extendable down to 50, and up to 51,200 with multi-image combination)
• Auto ISO customization
• Optional, profile-based correction of vignetting, chromatic aberrations and geometric distortion
• Top panel LCD
• Stereo microphone and external mic socket
• AF Micro Adjust

Complete specs on dpreview.

Video about specs:

You can read more about it:

@ Thephoblographer

@ dpreview

You can pre-order your Sony a77 MK II here.

The post First impressions: Sony SLT-A77 II appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

In addition to traditional computer security such as antivirus software, network security is the prevention of access and use of internet resources, and is focused on protecting users and systems from security attacks and network compromise, while also providing access to those resources.

In addition to the traditional computer security features provided in computer security tools, a variety of “user rights management” (aka “URM” tools) are being used in the last years, in order to enforce user controls. Some such tools include UTM (User Rights Management), which is included in most mainstream operating systems and in the more recent Microsoft Windows Vista and 7. The term “URM” is somewhat misleading in this context, as it only refers to the process of making the user aware of various types of restrictions that are applied to their actions (e.g. what actions can they perform, for what kinds of programs they can use, how they can be notified of such actions). This makes it seem like it’s a very generic set of restrictions; in fact, the restrictions described in this document refer to a very specific type of restriction: the restrictions enforced by the operating system (e.g. the use of read/write or read/write-only access to file system objects). This type of restrictions, known as the system’s access control mechanism, are what Windows has been designed to meet.

There are, however, also some additional restrictions that are applied to certain types of program; for example, for the purpose of security, the operating system will attempt to limit the amount of time that the system can be run, and will block programs that would otherwise be allowed.

The post appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

But is it cheap enough for everyone? Let’s see !

Did you see a footage like this and it made you feel, you wanted to do it?

It sure did have such an impact on me, so I made “little” research on this topic, as I really want to develop in that direction. The goal was to find myself an affordable RPV (Remotely Piloted Vehicle).

Please read before going any further. This article is written in good will and it is my personal research. What you do and how you it up is your responsibility. This is huge topic and I could write about it for days.

Every single domain for aerial photography/videography could be a separate article. This is a general article to help you get started, nothing more, hope it helps.

Some terms that we will mention in the article:

RC – Remote Controlled

FPV – First Person View – term used for piloting RC aircraft or other RC vehicle, other common term used is RPV (Remotely Piloted Vehicle) – Wikipedia

RTF – Ready To Fly

ATF – Almost ready To Fly

DIY – Do It Yourself

I wrote a huge article about RTF + DIY for RPV, so I decided to split it up for easier reading into two separate articles.

RTF stands for Ready to Fly, meaning you buy it and you can fly.

Beginners – Start with Small – Learn to fly – Micro-copters

If you really made decision to go in aerial photo/video world, and you never flew, you should start small. One of the advantages of starting small especially if you didn’t fly before is simple: learn to fly.

Micro-copters are cheap and easy entrance into learning flying skills.

Learn to fly

Though they look like toys, it’s easy to forget that operating a drone is an “art” that should be carried out by people that know how to fly. Like a Steady-Cam, you can’t just pick one up and expect cinematic results. Understanding how to balance and control these crafts is the difference between that perfect shot and ending up with a broken gear. If you don’t feel like you will get there, find somebody that will fly your craft, while you are one that controls the camera.

There are lots of instructions that can get you started.

Best practice would be to:

–          Be careful where you fly (go to clear area, no people, trees, dogs, etc.)

–          Don’t touch the craft if props are still spinning

–          Start slow, have patience, don’t advance until you master one technique

–          Watch instructions, videos, forums and sites to learn new skills

Start here:

http://blog.oscarliang.net/best-quadcopter-for-beginners-tips-to-start-out/

Your Budget will decide it for you

Basically it is simple. Lighter and smaller the multi-copter is, lower is the price.

Budget and camera size are proportional: Bigger the camera, bigger the multi-copter has to be, not to mention more advanced electronics. All that in the end means more money.

You can climb up from GoPro or similar small cameras up to entry level DSLR or even high end professional DSLR.

So forget about cheap multi-copter for Full Frame DSLR, even without many addons, because you don’t want your expensive gear to be carried with a cheap and unreliable drone.

Weight

When it comes to multi-rotors, you can lift off from small devices up to multiple cameras and other loads. Finding the sweet spot between weight and time of flight is what every professional aerial photographer/videographer aims for.

It would be best as said above > start small – less damage if anything goes wrong.

Quad, Hexa or Octo copter?

Smaller is lighter, lighter is better, but bigger is more stable and can lift more. It all comes down to your budget and requirements. There is not much philosophy about it. Check out simple pros and cons. If you know more, please let us know.

Do it yourself (DIY) vs (RTF) already made multi-copter?

In the end it all comes down to you. Maybe reason to get an already made solution is because you are afraid you will not make it as it should be. Maybe you are afraid you will miss something, or just don’t have time to spend on building one drone. Usually price is one that decides “already made vs diy projects” as with DIY; you can build your machine slowly, part by part.

Going either way, you should find optimum weight / power ratio to get longer and stable flights. Finding best components for your DIY RPV could be really time consuming, cause every gram counts and there are so many choices that make it even harder to find what you need.

Obvious advantages of RTF vs DIY multi-copters:

–          You can make your first flights in matter of minutes after unpacking your copter

–          No worries about components as they all already fit with each other

–          Instructions – you get instructions specifically for your drone

–          No hassle programming your board controller – it is programmed to work with your RC vehicle

–          Warranty for whole thing, in case anything goes wrong – except physical damage

Some obvious disadvantages of RTF compared to DIY RPV:

–          Not able to pick same quality components that are cheaper elsewhere

–          In some cases not able to upgrade, add modules, change parts as desired, limited options

–          You pay for brand and setup in whole, could be bigger price than making it on your own

No matter what is your choice, you should first fly in safe environment without your photo gear mounted on, just in case.

Stabilization

When it comes to photography and especially videography, you need calm, steady flights, which are almost impossible. For best results you should use camera gimbal. You can mount your camera on a static mount (holder) or on gimbal that has stabilization controller and servo motors to keep your camera steady or to move pan-tilt-rotate in desired direction. For example: if you have your setup with static camera holder, how would you shoot from above, straight down (90°)? It’s not impossible, but you should point your whole vehicle down, flying directly towards ground which is not smart.

Un-stabilized amateur BAD flying copter:

You really don’t want to fly unprepared resulting that to happen to your footage and drone.

Gimbals are whole separate science. You can see various designs for hand held setups and more advanced 3 axes for drones.

Bigger the camera stronger the servos and finally heavier the gimbal itself.

How does professional and stabilized flight look?

Gimbal does a couple of tasks:

–          Absorb vibrations

–          Move your camera in various directions

–          Keeps your camera steady while your drone tilts and shakes

With RTF solutions you will always get recommendation for supported gimbals, just make sure that one that you choose can handle your camera.

Post process – Digital stabilization

It is not end of the world, if your footage is not stabilized as you wanted, as you can always stabilize it more in software of your choice. After Effects has great ability to stabilize footage.

Example of before and after software stabilization:

Ready to Fly (RTF) Multi Rotors

For professionals that have no time into DIY projects or just for people that have cash, there are many already made solutions. You have so many options, with or without gimbal, auto pilot, video link, folding legs, etc. Some well known products are:

Quads

– DJI Phantom With GoPro Mount there are many DJI Phantom RTF packages that could cost above $2.000 for whole setups (live-video link, camera, gimbal, extras …)
– Walkera QR X350 PRO FPV GPS RC Quadcopter with G-2D Gimbal and DEVO
–  Arris M680-4S Carbon  W/NAZA-M Lite RTF
–  2014 SteadiDrone QU4D X – For Professionals ($15.000)

Hexa

– FY680 W/Naza-M Lite RTF
– DJI S800 EVO Spreading Wings Hexacopter – cca $3.000
– AD6 XM-6 Droidworx Aerial Photography Ready To Fly – cca $10.000 (not cheapest, but professional service and build quality)

Octo

– DJI S1000 Octo (search for best price) around $3.500-$4.000
– DJI S1000 Octo Premium With A2 and Zenuse Camera gimbal (RTF)  – cca $12.000
– Cinestar 8 Octocopter RTF or Professionals ($13.000)

Even in RTF, finding best solution could be really time consuming and money wasting. If you have any questions and if you are not sure about anything you should contact official company or store that produce/sells drones or post on RC forums, better safe than sorry.

For example DJI Phantom which is only 350mm diagonal wide, can’t actually lift of entry level DSLR but only if you hold it while taking off, it could fly with it. You should not try it cause it’s not meant to fly with a DSLR, but I found YouTube video where guys put T2i on it and it flew. When buying RTF multi-copter you should really check few must options: can it lift your camera + lens + gimbal = payload and can it mount your camera at all (does it support gimbal for your camera).

Enjoy your flights, fly safe and wait for our DIY article where we will setup complete list + explanations on components for Hexa-copter that can carry professional DSLR camera.

The post RTF – Ready to Fly Multi-Copters appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

I made 300 images for a short scene of bigger movie to come, 300 RAW files.

I know I have couple of options: convert each and every image to JPEG -2, 0, 2 exposures using Photoshop Lightroom or just load images to Photomatix Pro and use Batch Single Photos on RAW images.

Lets see which one is less time consuming.

Convert RAW files to JPEG using Lightroom

First question I would ask would be, “Can I make Time-Lapse straight from the Lightroom?”. Answer: Yes, you could, but it would not be HDR TL.

First advantage I see right away is, that you can edit footage. Don’t over do it – make simple adjustments as you like. What you must do is make -2, 0 and 2 exposures, so you basically make 3 photos from one RAW file. You can even make more (as Lightroom Exposure slider goes from -5 up to +5), but we will stick to the default 3 images HDR.

Steps to do it:

Preparing images for Photomatix in Lightroom

1. Import your RAW images in Library module
2. Go to Develop Module
3. Edit first image in the sequence by your liking
4. Crop image with 16:9 ratio (important if you want Full HD resolution)
5. Do -2 exposure (it doesn’t have to be -2 Exposure setting in LR, best way to do it is to slide Exposure slider to the left and look at the Highlights until they are normally exposed, then sync those settings to whole batch)
6. Select all images in the sequence and Sync with all check box selected (Even Crop)
7. Export images, best thing would be to add prefix or suffix so you know it is -2 exposure. Don’t forget the re-size option pick (1920×1080 > important re-sizing option but only if you cropped in 16:9 format, otherwise you’ll get 1920×1280 resolution)
8. Don’t close LR, press “Command” on the Mac or “CTRL” on PC, and deselect first image, then click it again to select just first image
9. Repeat process from step 5. but leaving Exposure in the middle, meaning, normally exposed image, where you have correct Mid-tones exposed
10. Repeat process from step 8. and make all from step 5. for last, +2 exposure, where you expose shadows and you are done with 3 differently exposed images

While you export one exposure, you can edit your first photo and adjust it for next exposure, sync, but wait for first batch to complete. Check if final photos are all a like, then Export 2nd batch, different exposure.

Note: Step 5. is rather important for final look of your HDR, I recommend that you make 3 exposures (-2, 0 and +2) from first image and load those 3 images into Photomatix, and see if you made it right. It all depends on your desired effects. I like more natural HDR look, but some people prefer the ‘unreal’ HDR look.

Time needed to export all 3 exposures was around 40 minutes.

Photomatix steps

1. Open Photomatix
2. Click Batch Bracketed Photos
3. Select Tone Mapping
4. Select desired Preset or in case you don’t have desired Preset, make your own on first 3 images (-2,0,2)
5. Select output options
6. Click Run

Time for compiling HDR images, was around 40 minutes.

Adobe After Effects or any other desired program to finalize Time-Lapse

I use AAE to make TL:

1. Open AAE and Create New Composition
2. Click on File Import -> File
3. Select First image and check Import as: Footage and JPEG Sequence
4. Click Open
5. Drag your JPEG Sequence to your Composition
6. Click Composition -> Add To Render Que
7. Change output settings as desired, do first one in lower quality, I pick H.264, bit-rate 6, 24 fps
8. Click Render

Time: Less than a 2 minutes.

Overall time around 1:30h to get to Full HD 1920×1080 10 seconds time-lapse.

As I made this TL just for test purpose, I’m not completely happy with results this way, TL quality is good, but not perfect.

Directly making HDR Timelapse from RAW images

Sounds faster, huh? Well I thought so, but it wasn’t.

Advantages?
One obvious advantage:
– simplicity > just load RAW files, run Batch and voila after 4 hours or so, you have your HDR images ready for TimeLapse

List of downsides:
– until new Photomatix Pro 5.03 you were not able to resize images, at least I didn’t find that option
– re-sizing images from original down to 1920×1280 didn’t have impact on process speed as whole Batching and converting to HDR is made in Photomatix on RAW files
– time consuming > making 3 exposures in LR is at least two times faster process than doing HDR directly from RAW in

Photomatix

– No editing > directly from RAW to HDR without editing, simple and easy, but time consuming

After 1:20h, Photomatix processed 98 pictures, and still 200 left, what means that this batch would take approximately 4 hours for 300 images to complete.

Conclusion: JPEG vs RAW?

The post How to make HDR Timelapse with RAW images appeared first on Canon5Dtips.

Do you often wonder how some portraits, wedding shots, prom shots and especially fashion images have a certain look to it. However, looking for awesome prom dresses? Check out these long prom dresses 2023 here for more options to choose from! You know something’s there but if I asked you to tell me what’s so different about these shots you probably  wouldn’t know at first what to say or how to achieve the exact effect. That’s where these presets come in like a sunshine on a cloudy day. Suddenly you get to choose from a number of presets that do exactly that what you were looking for.

Lightroom presets can be your most powerful ally in making your workflow travel at the speed of light, because once you are happy with output and know how to use them, they speed up the post processing.

Where are presets stored?

• Mac OS X: Installed and custom presets and templates have filenames ending in .lrtemplate and are located in the [user name]/Library/Application Support/Adobe/Lightroom folder.
• Windows XP: Installed and custom presets and templates have filenames ending in .lrtemplate and are located in folders in the Documents and Settings\[user name]\Application Data\Adobe\Lightroom
• Win Vista/7: Installed and custom presets and templates have filenames ending in .lrtemplate and are located in folders in the Users/[user name]/AppData/Roaming/Adobe/Lightroom folder.

Find more about creating and applying Develop presets.

Install / Import Presetshop presets

The plugins are very easy to use and install. With the basics of Lightroom you can get your plugins going in the matter of seconds. After you download them to your desired destination, follow this simple steps to install them. Although this instructions for installation are for Windows, it is very similar for Mac OS X as well. Open Lightroom, go to Develop mode and follow this easy steps:

About PRESET SHOP presets

Professional photographers and retouchers developed these products, they are powerful, fast and easy to install, working directly inside Lightroom and Camera Raw so no need to use a new interface, that might slow down your workflow and computer. These presets are very useful in various fields of photography. We’ve tested out 3 presets: Faded Film preset, Fashion Editorial preset and Haze-Fade-Flare preset.

Faded Film Preset

Faded film preset is used mainly for getting the retro looking photographs. It’s achieved by less contrast, increased graining, desaturation and even loss of some colors. I would recommend it for using on portraits of older people and also wedding images as it adds a dose of melancholy to it.

+PS Faded Film Collection
Faded Film looks for Adobe® Lightroom® 5+4+3 & ACR 8+7+6.
Collection of 20 faded film looks, 10 color presets and 10 black and white presets.
Film inspired photo treatments with lots of fades both in shadows and highlights, muddled vintage looks, color abnormalities as in expired analogue film, washed out muted colors, hazy photo effects and much more.

The treatments have been used in a variety of published fashion editorials worldwide and is one of our most popular collections. Be sure to check out the before and after photos above as well as Preset Shop curated gallery wall with featured work produced with their products.

Fashion Editorial Preset

As its name says, it is a preset best suitable for fashion and fashion a like photography.  It offers a series of options that allow you to increase the dynamic aspects of photography using various color profiles, gradients and filters. It gives that abstract fashion look to it. If you’re determined to use certain filters you may as well check them out even before the actual photo shooting cause they really tend to play with a photo in a specific manner.

+PS Fashion Editorial Collection
Fashion looks for Adobe® Lightroom® 5/4/3 & ACR 8/7/6.
Collection of 20 of most loved fashion editorial color treatments.

The treatments have been used in a variety of fashion and advertising campaigns and have been used in production of a wide range of fashion editorials worldwide. Be sure to check out the before and after photos above as well as official site and curated gallery wall with featured work produced with their products.

Haze-Fade-Flare Preset

This preset adds a certain calmness and softness to a photo and it comes handy when trying to express sensual note of photography. It alters highlights and shadows therefore increasing/decreasing contrast. It’s a preset which you are going to use to enhance a dynamic sunny atmosphere. It’s easy to operate with as it uses gradient filter options and will come handy with any kind of outside photography.

+PS Haze, Fade & Flare Collection
Presets and Brushes for Lightroom® 5/4.
The Haze, Fade & Flare collection has 70 presets & 15 brushes.
Great for quick application of lighting effects, haze and fades.
10 Faded Darks (shadow fade presets)
10 Faded Lights (highlight fade presets)
10 Faded Lights & Darks (shadow and highlights fade presets)
10 Haze presets (global incremental haze presets, emulating haze as when shooting with backlight)
30 SunFlare presets (emulating sunlight and lens flare)
5 Haze brushes for adding white haze to your photos.
(Brush in where you want your haze, start with preset 01 and then cycle through the brush presets to see what suits your image best)
10 SunFlare brushes for adding warm sun light and flare to your images.
(Brush in where you want your sunlight, start with preset 01 and you can cycle through to see what suits your image best)
Brush instructions:
For best result set your Lr brush flow setting to 50% and a large brush size setting above 50 works well.
(press ‘K’ for easy brush access) Start brushing in from the top and sides to create the haze or sunlight.

We tried above, and we loved it, even brush is so cool, you can get desired effect in just couple of minutes.

Check Preset Shop Gallery wall.

The post PRESET SHOP – Haze-Fade-Flare, Faded Film and Fashion Editioral Presets appeared first on Canon5Dtips.