tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78656680279681993422024-09-21T14:17:51.368-07:00Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-69260136517806292012013-02-14T23:13:00.002-08:002013-02-14T23:13:59.805-08:00I found this new website that is dedicated to anthuriums. It is a wordpress blog and I have found that the content is being updated reguarly. check it out <a href="http://www.anthuriumflora.com">http://anthuriumflora.com</a>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-26522242058216622892012-06-03T03:31:00.000-07:002012-06-03T03:31:00.096-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P><IMG class=vbseo-likes-count-image alt="Like Tree" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//vbseolikesheart.png">2Likes</EM> This is a discussion on Vanda Orchid</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; I was given a vanda orchid about a month ago. It does not have blooms, ...</P>Real NameWendy BatesonMy Grow AreaSunroomJoin DateJan 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationCentral New JerseyPosts6<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> Vanda Orchid <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">I was given a vanda orchid about a month ago. It does not have blooms, and appears to be potted in a charcoal like substance. A little while ago, one of my cats knocked the orchid pot over, spilling the potting medium. I then noticed that all the vanda's roots seem shriveled. It has no healthy roots at all. What can I do? Shall I re-pot it into the same charcoal substance, or should I use corks? I saw a suggestion about corks on one of the other forums. I am very concerned about theses dry and shriveled roots. HELP! </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">Sounds like it is a watering issue instead of potting issue. I don't believe cork will hold any more moisture than charcoal. You could try some redwood bark or perhaps coconut husk chunks, but the best bet in my opinion would be to increase watering, make sure you vanda gets lots of air movement, and see if it doesn't improve. Vandas like to drink and feed, but need to dry off quickly. They need good humidity as well. <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameWendy BatesonMy Grow AreaSunroomJoin DateJan 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationCentral New JerseyPosts6<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Thanks BD. Will follow your advice! Can you tell me if it is normal for Vanda roots to look all withered? It looks healthy enough above the root line. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">Thanks BD. Will follow your advice! Can you tell me if it is normal for Vanda roots to look all withered? It looks healthy enough above the root line.Well, I can only tell you that I have some vandas that have withered/ woody looking roots and some that have thick, white roots. All of mine require lots of water and need to dry off quickly. <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameWendy BatesonMy Grow AreaSunroomJoin DateJan 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationCentral New JerseyPosts6<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Great news! I am watering and air circulating and sunning and hoping for the best! Thanks for your help! </BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameJasonMy Grow AreaUnder LightsFavorite Orchid(s)PhragmapediumJoin DateNov 2010LocationPhiladelphiaPosts129<IMG border=0 alt="Member's Country Flag" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//US.png"> <IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="29">What you might want to try is putting it in a vase without potting mix. I grow under lights and my humidity levels tend to be low, which isn't good for growing vandas. I have a blue vanda I purchased about four years ago and it struggled in my house for the first few years. The roots shriveled, the leaves were always weak and it wasn't putting out new growths. I then read online about growing vandas in vases. I can post a picture if you'd like but it's been in a vase now for two years and it's growing new roots like crazy! It also bloomed for the first time in four years last month. This method might not be for everyone but if you have low humitidy like I do it might be worth trying. Good luck! <P>Jason </P></BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameWendy BatesonMy Grow AreaSunroomJoin DateJan 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationCentral New JerseyPosts6<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Thanks Jason - lucky you to have blooms - I'l love to see a picture of yours, then I'll know (hopefully) what I have to look forward to!! I'm now putting my vanda outside for morning sunshine (central NJ), and when it is in the house, I have a humidifier running, so hopefully, the conditions are good. I have a number of phals, an oncidium, and 3 baby dendrobiums (have been putting the baby denbrobiums outside with the vanda too). I will (in the next couple of weeks) have a greenhouse, so I'm thrilled that I'll be able to put my orchids in their new home. Hopefully I'll be able to control their different needs! </BLOCKQUOTE>By lakshmanamoorthy in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 15 Last Post: 08-16-2011, 02:16 PM By cdayinflorida in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 17 Last Post: 08-11-2011, 05:10 PM By Sui Orchids in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 14 Last Post: 02-21-2011, 07:42 AM By delphiguy in forum **NOT IN BLOOM** All Genera Replies: 26 Last Post: 10-21-2009, 02:44 AM By gore.m in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 6 Last Post: 07-04-2008, 06:18 AM You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31662-vanda-orchid.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-4621229714652458362012-06-02T23:55:00.000-07:002012-06-02T23:55:00.101-07:00 <BODY readability="48">This is a discussion on Dancing lady leaf question</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; the leaves were bought this way...i was just wondering what happened and if i should ...</P>My Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Zygo, Phal, Oncidium, MiltoniaJoin DateMay 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationLas Vegas NVPosts40<IMG alt=Exclamation src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon4.png"> Dancing lady leaf question <IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Don't be concerned. Some of it is mechanical damage from moving the plant around. It looks like a large critter took a couple of bites out of it also but, what ever it was, it's probably no longer on the plant. </BLOCKQUOTE>My Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Zygo, Phal, Oncidium, MiltoniaJoin DateMay 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationLas Vegas NVPosts40<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Wonderful thank you! the flower looks amazing otherwise so great that makes me happy. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">Agreed. Looks like it got beat up a bit, no worries. <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE>My Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Zygo, Phal, Oncidium, MiltoniaJoin DateMay 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationLas Vegas NVPosts40<br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31626-dancing-lady-leaf-question.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-51344141077944285162012-06-02T19:45:00.001-07:002012-06-02T19:45:59.247-07:00 <BODY readability="41">This is a discussion on Odonto/Oncidium hybrid Second stock question?????</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; I was just wondering if anyone knows how soon the second stock should follow as ...</P>My Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Zygo, Phal, Oncidium, MiltoniaJoin DateMay 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationLas Vegas NVPosts40<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">There really is no way to tell how fast they will develop or if at the same time. I have some types that bloom nearly all the flowers at once, while others bloom a few at a time. I think it tends to be the plants normal habits and how often and how much you fertilize them. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">If nothing else, orchids teach us patience. <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">I don't understand what you mean by stock ? Are you talking about a second flower stem ( which we always call flower spikes) from the same bulb ?Or do you mean another bulb ? Whatever you mean, there is no way of increasing the number of buds and flowers on any one stem (spike) except by growing iut better in the future.<BR>And that is exactly what we are all trying to do with all our orchids ! </BLOCKQUOTE>My Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Zygo, Phal, Oncidium, MiltoniaJoin DateMay 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationLas Vegas NVPosts40<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Hmm...curious to me is there is clearly more wrong information than correct. I have read that on pbulb orchids the spike is called a stock. And that Phals are called spikes. I have read more than several websites that have used both words but I'm glad I've been told. The last thing I need is for someone to think I'm worse an amateur than I already am. I own a Zygo and the info I read said nothing but the words using "stock" I've always called my Phals stems spikes so thank you for<BR>clarifying the difference and that stock isn't a term at all. <BR>The spike in question is on the other bulb. There are 2 tiny buds on top the spike so I was hoping I could make it grow more than what's already in plain view. Just curious of what's possible. </BLOCKQUOTE><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31710-odonto-oncidium-hybrid-second-stock-question.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-26127686878068116992012-05-12T09:26:00.001-07:002012-05-12T09:26:41.358-07:00<a href="http://www.kqzyfj.com/click-5750836-10515004"> <img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-5750836-10515004" width="120" height="90" alt="Expedia.com" border="0"/></a>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-49596723095806760882012-05-12T09:22:00.001-07:002012-05-12T09:22:24.962-07:00<a href="http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-5750836-11052470">Book ASAP! Deals with 50% Savings for 24 hours only! - Expires 12/31/12</a><img src="http://www.awltovhc.com/image-5750836-11052470" width="1" height="1" border="0"/>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-43234948715927467172012-05-07T12:23:00.000-07:002012-05-07T12:23:00.225-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P>This is a discussion on What is the bumpy lumps on my Rlc Island Charm x Cat.Memoria Schultz flower?</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; Could anyone help. 1st picture with the weird bumps. 2nd picture is how it should ...</P>By ischel1 in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 8 Last Post: 01-11-2012, 11:12 AM By Thai0485 in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 15 Last Post: 10-26-2011, 07:36 AM By jeffrey6115 in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 1 Last Post: 10-12-2010, 01:16 AM By Cattmad in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 4 Last Post: 03-28-2009, 07:39 PM By Cattmad in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 7 Last Post: 03-10-2009, 07:58 AM You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31203-what-bumpy-lumps-my-rlc-island-charm-x-cat-memoria-schultz-flower.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-28127822905353154962012-05-07T07:23:00.000-07:002012-05-07T07:23:00.462-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P>This is a discussion on Got a Vanda as a free gift--can I even grow it in PA?</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; I received an orchid shipment today in the mail, and it included a small bare ...</P>Real NameJennMy Grow AreaSunroomFavorite Orchid(s)Whatever's in bloom today!Join DateApr 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationPennsylvaniaPosts10<IMG alt=Post src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> Got a Vanda as a free gift--can I even grow it in PA? <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="39">I received an orchid shipment today in the mail, and it included a small bare root Vanda as a free gift. Everything I've researched about these says you need to mount them or hang them, then soak the roots every day. They also need bright light. I live in PA, my orchids are all indoors, and I have no means of mounting this properly without soaking the carpet beneath it when I water it. <P>When I was thinking about the conditions this orchid likes, it occurred to me that it might be happy in these "water balls" I purchased. The balls soak up water, then slowly release it as the plant needs it. I'm thinking this might work for the Vanda because the roots could get to the air in between the balls, but the roots would have access to moisture in a continuous high-humidity environment. </P><P>Light is another issue altogether, but I'd just like someone's take on whether you think this "water ball" idea would even work. I don't want to kill the little guy within the first 48 hours! So this is what it looks like right now, on the windowsill where it would be grown, in a vase with water balls. I'd love to hear your thoughts! </P><P><IMG border=0 alt="Name: Vanda in water balls resized.jpg<br />Views: 58<br />Size: 408.5 KB" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//53122d1336177883-got-vanda-free-gift-can-even-grow-pa-vanda-water-balls-resized.jpg"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">I don't see why it shouldn't work, though I've never used the water balls before. But I see that you have a very healthy looking, spiking dendrobium next to it. Where I live, dendrobes and vanda thrive under the same conditions. Vandas are tough and not likely to die in the next 48 hours. Any way that young vanda plant looks extremely healthy to me. Have you considered using bark for the growing medium? </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids are very eloquent.They tell their master by their appearance , how they are treated.<BR>H.G. Reichenbach</BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameJennMy Grow AreaSunroomFavorite Orchid(s)Whatever's in bloom today!Join DateApr 2012Gender<IMG alt=Female src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Female.gif">LocationPennsylvaniaPosts10<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Thanks! I was actually under the impression that bark was undesirable for Vandas. Are people successfully growing them in bark? If so, I'll give it a try. </BLOCKQUOTE>My Grow AreaPorch/Patio.Favorite Orchid(s)VandaJoin DateApr 2012Gender<IMG alt=Male src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//Male.gif">LocationLos Angeles, CAPosts15<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">nice free gift! did they tell you the hybrid or species name? i live in california where it is very dry, and have kept a vanda relative alive for a long time in large grade orchid bark. i mist the aerial roots regularly as well as a good soaking once to twice a week depending on temperatures. it lives outside in warm months, and comes inside in cool months. i have tried mounting in the past, but everything dessicates eventually. i have never used (or even heard) of these water balls. vanda roots do like to dry out some between waterings, so if those balls are really wet all the time, it might eventually cause a problem with root-rot. if they are just damp, you might be just fine. i have seen a trend in europe with vandas where people grow them in glass vases, with no media at all. you fill the vase with water for 20 minutes or so, then dump it out. but you have to do it every day i think for optimum care. i have recently been buying small vandas and potting them up in different methods to see what does best for my dry weather. keep us posted on how they do, i'd love to see if these water balls do well. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">Looks good to me too. Happy vanda growing! <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Hi Jenn! I must say that considering the circumstances coeruleo grows his Vandaceous orchid under he is giving you some good information and advice. I would only add that you should keep a eye out and see if this plant starts putting out new roots and eventually leaves. Coeruleo's advice about allowing for some drying of the roots is right on, so I would check the roots from time to time to make sure they are not constantly wet. Good luck with these 'balls' and I hope they work out well. Look forward to hearing about your cultural results in the future. AL </BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameLeaf MiteMy Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Catts, Angs, fragrant orchidsJoin DateSep 2010LocationOhioPosts90<IMG border=0 alt="Member's Country Flag" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//US.png"> <IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">I use plastic vanda baskets and lava rock and set the baskets on plastic square plates. No mess, the vandas are happy, and I don't need to water daily.<BR>Posted via Mobile Device </BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameLeaf MiteMy Grow AreaWindowsillFavorite Orchid(s)Catts, Angs, fragrant orchidsJoin DateSep 2010LocationOhioPosts90<IMG border=0 alt="Member's Country Flag" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//US.png"> <IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">That is a strap-leaf Vanda and they will bloom even grown indoors. I keep mine in a south-facing window during winter and put them out for the summer.<BR>Posted via Mobile Device </BLOCKQUOTE>By Naoki in forum **NOT IN BLOOM** All Genera Replies: 5 Last Post: 10-16-2011, 12:24 AM By dkknyte in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 6 Last Post: 07-13-2011, 04:38 AM By Grandma M in forum OrchidTalk Members Grow Area - Photos Replies: 17 Last Post: 12-11-2010, 08:44 AM By Tmai in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 12 Last Post: 12-27-2006, 07:41 PM By Brutal_Dreamer in forum The Jungle Replies: 3 Last Post: 04-10-2006, 07:09 AM You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31199-got-vanda-free-gift-can-even-grow-pa.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-63772401415729814422012-05-07T03:12:00.000-07:002012-05-07T03:12:00.339-07:00 <BODY readability="19">This is a discussion on What are these on my Cattleya leaf?</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; Anyone help. We have had a fair bit of rain. This is in an orchid ...</P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31204-what-these-my-cattleya-leaf.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-9520139711401741702012-05-06T22:40:00.000-07:002012-05-06T22:40:00.094-07:00 Maybe you obtained an attractive anthurium plant for a present or perhaps you acquired one as a memento of your Hawaiian holiday and now you're thinking about: " Exactly how do i keep this spectacular, hawaiian plant alive?" Fortunately for you, if you can adhere to quick and easy directions, you will have no trouble keeping your new anthurium plant alive for a long time into the future. <P><B>Watering Your Anthurium</B></P><P> The number one thing that you have to do is water your anthurium plant correctly and the good news is that you don't have to be as meticulous as a hawaii dentist to do this right. Anthuriums are incredibly sturdy plants, but like just about all plants they need to be watered regularly. You need to water them every 1 to 3 days, dependant upon the level of humidity and temperature, but you must be careful to not over-water them. Be sure that the container that you have placed them in drains nicely. If their roots are allowed to sit in standing water they are going to encounter root rot.</P><P> You ought to keep your anthurium plant indoors and out of direct sunlight, which can burn their blossoms and foliage. So long as the temperature is cozy for you, your anthurium will be fine. They like temperature ranges between seventy and 90 degrees, much like most human beings do.</P><P><B>Managing Pests and Diseases</B></P><P> If you keep your anthurium plant indoors, the great thing is you are not likely to run into any difficulties with unwanted pests, including scales, thrips and aphids. However, if you do come across these kinds of pests it is possible to deal with most of them by simply misting the foliage of your anthurium with water and wiping them using a soft wash cloth. If this isn't enough, you can utilize an insecticidal soap to keep these kinds of unwanted pests under control. Fortunately, this treatment is inexpensive. You don't have to be one of the top hedge fund managers in the world to afford it.</P><P>In outdoor facilities, a soil borne, microbial blight can easily decimate entire swaths of anthurium crops. But again, you are in luck, simply because by keeping your plant inside your own home it can escape this lethal risk. The leading disorder, your anthurium will encounter, is often a nasty fungus infection that can gobble up your anthurium plant. But, as long as you do not over-water your anthurium plant and you ensure it's potted in a potting soil that drains well this should not be a problem. However, should you encounter this particular scourge, you may keep it in check using any of a variety of fungicides. <B>Fertilizing an Anthurium</B> <P>Your anthurium doesn't need very much in the way of nutrition. Over fertilizing is a substantially greater threat as compared to under fertilizing it. A gentle, quarter strength solution of 3:1:2 proportion fertilizer every three to six calendar months is more than adequate to keep your anthurium plant happy and healthy.</P><P> As you can see, keeping your anthurium plant living is a simple process. It's simple enough that you might even find them growing in the garden of a house you find in the vacation rentals oahu site. Just remember to water it consistently and be sure that its roots are never ever subjected to standing water and your anthurium will live a long time. </P><P>BTW: If you plan on ordering anthurium flowers don't make these anthurium ordering mistakes.</P><br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/12/anthurium-plant-care-6ba9/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-38665037970122371972012-05-06T19:04:00.000-07:002012-05-06T19:04:00.380-07:00 This is the third post in my series of reports on anthurium species made by the University of Hawaii. <P>The UH posseses an agriculture department that was one of the leaders in developing fresh anthurium species in the last couple of decades. This program has been at the forefront of developing cultivars that are: a lot more resistant to illness, higher yielding, a lot more colorful and able to last longer after being harvested. With this sequence of reports, I am going to showcase the fruits of their work.</P><P>The Tropic Sunrise is a large orange obake flower which was created in 1981 by breeding an Anuenue with a Soga Orange. It yields a large blossom which is orange in the middle and green at the sides. This particular bloom many grow up to 1 foot long. It features a yellowish nose which becomes white as it ages.</P><P>The coloration and size of the Tropic Sunrise happen to be its very best attributes. It produces its blooms on strong stems that may be nearly thirty inches long. Its flowers can last up to 27 days in a flower vase and this plant produces around half a dozen flowers each year. Testing shows that it's a robust plant with a small susceptibility to anthracnose.</P><P>The White Lady is an additional amnicola based crossbreed. It generates tiny white tulip shaped blooms which have a tendency to be just a little longer compared to other tulip shaped species. It was created by crossing four distinct varieties, so it has quite a mixed heritage. It has tiny green leaves that are the same shape as elongated spades. And it makes an outstanding cut flower or potted plant.</P><P>As a cut flower, White Lady, has a vase life of twenty-five days. As its flowers age they are able to acquire a pinkish hue, so they look wonderful upon potted plants. It's a wonderful plant for growers and hobbyists because it's extremely resistant to both blight and anthracnose. It makes about half a dozen blossoms annually. The spadix on these kinds of flowers may grow to six inches long and their stems grow up to twenty two inches. The spadix starts out yellow-colored and shifts to green as the blossoms age. </P><P>In case you would want to find out more regarding anthurium plants, please check out my anthurium internet site.</P><br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/01/kinds-of-anthuriums-developed-by-the-university-of-hawaii-article-three-1d828/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-40754882190173831972012-05-06T15:08:00.000-07:002012-05-06T15:08:00.422-07:00 There are three methods to propagate an anthurium plant: you can take cuttings; it is possible to raise them from seeds; or you'll be able to tissue culture them. Cuttings are straightforward for anyone to do. Seeds are a little more challenging to accomplish, and tissue culture is usually reserved for scientists in labs or really advanced anthurium cultivators. <P>Cuttings are by far the simplest method to propagate your anthurium plant. The very best part regarding taking cuttings is that the plants you create will look precisely the same as the parent plant. First, you need to wait until your plant is big enough to enable a cutting to be taken. Generally you'll need to observe four or five nodes, or bunches of roots and leaves, before taking a cutting. Once your plant is large enough, chop it in half, so that every section possesses at least two nodes. Keep the bottom of your plant in its initial pot and it'll generate new growth. After that position the top cutting in a brand new pot, water it regularly and it will keep growing, too.</P><P>Seeds are an additional method to propagate your plant. Nonetheless it is a much more challenging method and takes a lot more patience. The stigma and stamen of these flowers are active at different times, so should you desire to develop seeds you'll need to store pollen within the freezer or have two blossoms at different phases of development. So the first thing you have to do is collect pollen. Make use of a paint brush to scrape pollen off the stamen and into a vial. Hold this vial inside the freezer until you notice that the stigmas are ready to be pollinated. When you have a flower with open stigmas brush a little pollen over it. After that you will have to wait for approximately a year for seeds to be generated.</P><P>Tissue culture is nearly entirely carried out inside the walls of a lab, except for truly high end hobbyists and growers. It's best left to business oriented growers mainly because it's very expensive and is typically used when one wishes to create thousands of genetically indistinguishable plants. </P><P>Tissue culture begins with the picking of the most incredible plant accessible. This plant is delivered to a laboratory where a tiny piece is trimmed off and sanitized. This specimen is placed in a sterile growing media in which it is subjected to a variety of different plant hormones. The initial hormone triggers the specimen to rapidly divide into hundreds of thousands of undifferentiated plant cells called a callus. This callus is divided into many pieces, which are then exposed to hormones that trigger each piece to grow into a brand new plant.</P><br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/02/a-quick-summary-on-anthurium-propagation-18020/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-7839607402271580882012-05-06T10:57:00.000-07:002012-05-06T10:57:00.623-07:00 The University of Hawaii has an agriculture program that's been one of the front runners in producing brand new anthurium flowers during the last handful of decades. This program has been at the forefront of producing types which are: a lot more resistant to illness, higher yielding, much more colorful and able to be preserved longer after being harvested. Within this line of articles, I will cover the results of their hard work. <P>The Waimea is a red anthurium that was developed to fill an important need. Red anthuriums are incredibly popular blooms, but the foremost type of red anthurium, the Ozaki, was stricken by a microbial blight. The Waimea was produced in reply to this. It is a blight resistant variety that provides a lot of vivid red flowers. </P><P>The Waimea was produced back in 1987 by crossing Paradise Pink with a Marian Seefurth hybrid. The result was a quick maturing plant that made half a dozen blooms a year on average. The Waimea anthurium generates mid-sized, heart shaped blooms with a red spathe and a spadix that shifts from orange-red to red-purple. The blooms that it produces possess a vase life of roughly 28 days.</P><P>The Centennial is a white anthurium that was given its name for the 100 year anniversary of higher education within the Hawaiian Islands. The Centennial features a lot of symbolic meaning for the University of Hawaii. It generates a white colored bloom with green-colored veins. White and green are the colors of the university. The veins combine with each other at the base of the blossom and this represents the numerous diverse ethnicities which have come together at the university. </P><P>A lot of labor went into the creation of the Centennial. It is a hybrid that was produced from four different varieties of anthurium: A. andraeanum, A. lindenianum, A. amnicola and A. antioquiense. It makes a white tulip shaped bloom with mild obake traits. It possesses a yellow-green spadix that turns white. It makes dark green leaves and lots of offshoots. It is fantastic as a cut flower and as a potted plant.</P><br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/01/anthurium-cultivars-created-by-the-university-of-hawaii-part-1-1a055/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-16416887468923614142012-05-06T07:51:00.000-07:002012-05-06T07:51:00.136-07:00 To begin, not everybody may grow anthuriums outside. In most areas of the world, due to local climate conditions, anthuriums can only be raised indoors. However if you're one of the lucky folks to reside in a place where the temperature does not decline under sixty degrees, there's a great possibility that you will be able to grow anthurium plants outside the house. <P>First, you'll want to validate that the location in which you are living offers suitable weather conditions. The temperature must stay between sixty degrees and ninety degrees. These plants may possibly live for a brief time away from this range, however in general they'll be injured if temperatures exceed this range. Wind is another factor. If you inhabit an region which is windy, the wind may perhaps hurt your plants. If the foliage on other vegetation with broad leaves inside your region are good, this indicates that the wind should not be a concern.</P><P>Second, you'll will need a spot which has bright indirect sunshine. These plants are unable to handle direct sunlight, but they are unable to live in the dark, either. The best location is in a sunlit region beneath a tree that blocks out a small piece of the sunshine.</P><P>Third, you'll require a garden soil that drains well. These kinds of plants do well in just about any kind of soil which has a good quantity of organic matter, however the necessary characteristic of any growing medium is that it has to drain well. If it doesn't, these kinds of plants will ultimately die from fungus or root rot.</P><P>When you've discovered or produced a location in your garden to suit these conditions, all you have to do is take your anthuriums out of their containers and plant them. If you're growing them beneath a tree, a great way to organize them is within a circle or semi-circle close to the trunk, with about a foot in between every plant. Lastly, make sure that they receive water regularly and they really should develop nicely and create quite a few attractive blooms.</P><br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/01/tips-on-how-to-grow-anthuriums-outdoors-1c88f/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-84197187583972957742012-05-06T03:19:00.000-07:002012-05-06T03:19:00.437-07:00 <BR>How You Can Hold The Lethal Anthurium Blight At Bay<IMG alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//00298241small.jpg" width=333 height=249> A number of, but not all anthurium flowers are vunerable to a illness known as Xanthomonas blight. The blight is fatal. It doesn't take any prisoners. When an anthurium plant is contaminated it'll at some point perish, if you don't manage to remove afflicted leaves or flowers before the illness has progressed. Typically, andreanum are susceptible to this disease, whilst andrecola, which are andreanum amnicola hybrids are resistant to it. So if you are growing andrecola you most likely do not need to worry about blight, but if you are growing andreanum, you may well want to keep reading. <P>Correct anthurium care is vital to keep this threatening nuisance at bay. Blight is distributed by proximity and water. Water can transport Xanthomonas from an afflicted plant to an uninfected plant. </P><P>Obviously in the event you keep the plants close together, there is a higher possibility of infection than if you keep them far apart. So if you are raising these plants within your garden you want them spaced as far apart as feasible. But if you are growing a significant quantity of them, you might not have a option but to keep them nearer together.</P><P>Whenever raising these plants in close proximity you can find a number of things you can do to decrease the transmission of blight. The very first is modifying how they're watered. Watering with drip irrigation will decrease the amount of water that gets on the leaves. This may reduce the spread of blight from an infected leaf to an uninfected one. Next, promptly get rid of any plants that demonstrate indicators of disease. Be cautious not to let it touch other plants as it is carried away. Finally be cautious when strolling among your plants, specifically if they're moist. It is possible to easily spread blight when they are damp.</P><P>Finally, appropriate sanitation is essential. Be sure that there is no standing water where you grow your anthurium. Sanitize all pots and equipment prior to use. Rubbing alcohol could be utilized as a sanitizing agent. Get rid of any dead leaves. And be sure you quarantine any new plants for a while to make sure that they are uninfected.</P>Filed under: anthurium care       <BR>  Write something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.</p><p><BR><IMG alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//rss.gif"> RSS feed<br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/01/how-you-can-hold-the-lethal-anthurium-blight-at-bay-34d27/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-33270357823120520512012-05-05T23:16:00.000-07:002012-05-05T23:16:00.450-07:00 <BR>Exactly How Anthurium Cultivators Raise Anthurium PlantsIn Hawaii, cultivating anthurium flowers is a significant industry. Anthuriums are grown on more than two hundred private facilities. A number of these facilities have been in existence since the 1950s, which had been the decade that farmers first started growing anthuriums commercially. Keep reading and I will illustrate the anthurium farming techniques that these farms utilize to cultivate large quantities of anthurium flowers. <P>The very first step in growing these kinds of blooms commercially is constructing a shade house. The goal of the shade house is to provide shade to the plants that will be raised in it. The reason why shade is important to raising anthuriums is that these plants would are likely to get burned by the sun's rays if they were to be raised in direct sunlight. To construct a shade building, the parcel on which it is going to be built will have to be cleared and graded using a bulldozer. Soon after the property is flattened off, galvanized pipes are arranged in place. These pipes are employed as posts to hold up the cables and shade material that are employed to build the shade structure.</P><BR><IMG alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//00390466.jpg" width=350 height=262> Once the shade house is completed, volcanic cinder or other growing material is distributed on the ground of the shade house utilizing tractors. The cinder normally comes from volcanic cinder cones and is brought to the farm in large dump trucks. Normally a layer of cinder about 2 feet thick is placed on the floor of the shade house. <P>As soon as the cinder is in position, anthuriums are obtained. They can originate from top cuttings of more mature plants in other areas of the farm or they may be the result of vegetative reproduction. They are then planted in the shade building.</P><P>Usually, Hawaii's regular rain showers provide sufficient moisture for these plants. But, whenever rain fall is inadequate the anthurium crops might be watered by means of sprinklers.</P>Filed under: anthuriums       <BR>Write something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.</p><p><BR><IMG alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//rss.gif"> RSS feed<br /><p><a href="http://anthurium.blinkweb.com/1/2011/12/exactly-how-anthurium-cultivators-raise-anthurium-plants-4f3df/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-56747306514189346062012-05-05T19:32:00.000-07:002012-05-05T19:32:00.091-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P><IMG class=vbseo-likes-count-image alt="Like Tree" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//vbseolikesheart.png">4Likes</EM> This is a discussion on Mounting a Phal..</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; Hello all, I am a newbie at raising orchids.Only started in December 2011. I made ...</P><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> Mounting a Phal.. <BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!<BR>Kenny Chesney</BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">That looks like you did it properly. I'm sure you're aware that it will need water often. Good luck. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">That looks good. The only thing I might have done a little differently would be to put some sphagnum between the plant and the mount to hold the leaves angled out away from the mount a little bit. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Thanks for the reply,Jeff<BR>I intend on misting it daily .<BR>I understand that those roots will die,but new different type roots should grow.<BR>There is a lot to learn with orchids,yet it is all fun and educational.<BR>Denny </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!<BR>Kenny Chesney</BLOCKQUOTE>Real NameJennevie ShihMy Grow AreaGreenhouseFavorite Orchid(s)Phalaenopsis, Vanda, CattleyaJoin DateMar 2011LocationManila, PhilippinesPosts171<IMG border=0 alt="Member's Country Flag" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//PH.png"> <IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">That looks very good! Well done! </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids are very eloquent.They tell their master by their appearance , how they are treated.<BR>H.G. Reichenbach</BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">I've had the best luck with mounted species phals. This one looks pretty good. In my watering conditions, I would probably need a bit more moss for the roots or the orchid would dry out too quickly. <IMG class=inlineimg title="Good Luck!" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//anim25.gif"> <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Love it! That 's going to look so good when it spikes again for you. Congratulations on the plant and on branching out so boldly. </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Yes Jenn,you may be right,about using more moss. This is my first attempt at mounting any type orchid.<BR>Denny </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!<BR>Kenny Chesney</BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids!! One is One too many, One more is never enough.!!!<BR>Kenny Chesney</BLOCKQUOTE>By Bill in NYC in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 3 Last Post: 03-26-2012, 06:57 AM By Zozzl in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 7 Last Post: 08-19-2011, 12:03 AM By hank3443 in forum Phalaenopsis ('moth orchid') Information Replies: 8 Last Post: 12-12-2009, 09:33 AM By cheffysteffy in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 6 Last Post: 05-03-2007, 09:29 PM By Nanci in forum New Growers: Ask the Senior Members Replies: 7 Last Post: 04-29-2006, 07:00 PM You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31012-mounting-phalaenopsis.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-58469087204714035232012-05-05T15:36:00.000-07:002012-05-05T15:36:00.188-07:00 <BODY readability="56"><IMG class=vbseo-likes-count-image alt="Like Tree" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//vbseolikesheart.png">3Likes</EM> This is a discussion on Cattleya tipped over...</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; I'm so sad and upset, My Cattleya tiiped over and damaged a leaf and two ...</P>Real NamejasonMy Grow AreaPorch/Patio.Join DateNov 2008Locationsonoma county, caPosts1,055<IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">If it makes you feel any better, the wind decided that it must be time for me to repot my in bud purpurata yesterday. I've never seen it bloom. The buds are tiny still and went undamaged...hope they don't abort! There would be no harm done leaving the flowers on, but personally, I'd go ahead and clip them. The plant is using its energy to sustain damaged blooms.<BR>Posted via Mobile Device </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">I wouldn't worry to much about the orchid. Cut the blooms if you like - but as pointed out - orchids are pretty tough and this plant looks pretty healthy to me. I knock orchids over or drop them on a regular basis. I cringe and die a little each time, but, with the exception of a strap leaf slipper orchid I knocked over with the water hose and then backed up and smashed with my foot (crushed the plastic pot and damaged the leaves horribly), all of them seem to pull through. haha.. <P>Cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Like Bruce said, you can cut them off if you want to or leave them on the plant. It will be fine either way. I've never seen an orchid get any kind of infection from a cut so I don't treat cuts with anything. Whenever I have a tall blooming orchid in a plastic pot or very small clay pot, I temporarily place the pot inside a larger clay or decorative ceramic pot. That gives it a larger and heavier base which makes falling over less likely. </BLOCKQUOTE><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31064-cattleya-tipped-over.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-35845577156686120752012-05-05T11:25:00.000-07:002012-05-05T11:25:00.691-07:00 <BODY readability="37">This is a discussion on Polyploid orchids - is this a 3n orchid ?</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; anyone know about Polyploid ? I crossed my Rhynchovanda colmarie Merlot, but the pods turn ...</P><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> Polyploid orchids - is this a 3n orchid ? <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">anyone know about Polyploid ? I crossed my Rhynchovanda colmarie Merlot, but the pods turn brown and fall down? My orchid is tetraploid ? How i can recognize 3n orchids ? Help me please.... </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">... TALK SLOWLY ... THINK QUICKLY ...</BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="36">In addition to the VERY interesting thread of 2009 this is some additional information. <P>If the cross from which Rhynchovanda colmarie Merlot was selected was between a 2n x 4n this plant will be a triploid. These are most of the times sterile. Although nature is quite flexible, and we are lucky that orchids make such huge amounts of gametes, sometimes these gametes are unreduced which mean that they are ready to mate with with another unreduced gamete. This is just a matter of luck and a well developed embryo rescue system, otherwise these low fertile seed pods will turn brown and take the few fertile embryos down with it. So try to set seedpods on many plants and find somebody that can sow your pods which need to be sowed very early. </P><P>Good luck with it,<BR>Maurice<BR>Posted via Mobile Device </P></BLOCKQUOTE><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/30959-polyploid-orchids-3n-orchid.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-30146074022863731122012-05-05T08:19:00.000-07:002012-05-05T08:19:00.490-07:00 <BODY readability="49"><IMG class=vbseo-likes-count-image alt="Like Tree" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//vbseolikesheart.png">10Likes</EM> This is a discussion on General light requirements for Cattleyas</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; I comfortable with the lighting I am supplying my Phal 's - east facing window. ...</P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/30923-general-light-requirements-cattleyas.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-14457281171644946502012-05-05T03:47:00.000-07:002012-05-05T03:47:00.772-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P><IMG class=vbseo-likes-count-image alt="Like Tree" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//vbseolikesheart.png">5Likes</EM> This is a discussion on What do do on spent flowers of this Epidendrum</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; The current book i'm reading states that " It is not necessary to remove the ...</P><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> What do do on spent flowers of this Epidendrum <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="30">The current book i'm reading states that " It is not necessary to remove the flowered tip of exhanusted flower spikes as these frequently produce secondary flowerings spurs rather than shoots which grow from the medium or lower of these stems" - (Expanding your orchind collection, J.N.Rentoul ) <P>So I'm confused once the flowers fade and drop off I don't cut the stalk but where will the flowers come from againg? The apex?? Anyone here can explain ? </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"><B>I care about my orchids more than my partner so i've been told</B> <IMG class=inlineimg title=ouch border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//anim39.gif"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">When the bloom is "Spent" cut it off just above a node anywhere along the stem. Another flowering stem or a keiki will start there. </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"><BR>That person is a success who has lived well,.......<BR>who never lacked appreciation of earth's beauty or failed to express it; <P>Bessie Anderson Stanley.</P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">What Angela describes is exactly what happened to mine. I have a second blooming now. <IMG class=inlineimg title=Smilie border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//smile.gif"> <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore">Orchids are very eloquent.They tell their master by their appearance , how they are treated.<BR>H.G. Reichenbach</BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> Nodes, keiki, and flower on Epi. stem <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Can't boast about the photography, but I hope this gives you some idea. </BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"><BR>That person is a success who has lived well,.......<BR>who never lacked appreciation of earth's beauty or failed to express it; <P>Bessie Anderson Stanley.</P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">The papery sheath that wraps around the spike (shown in your picture) begins at a node, but I'm not sure you actually need to cut the spike. I leave mine alone until something turns brown and dries out, which is usually just the topmost section where the blooms were attached. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">Can you please show me where a node would be on these Epi as they are not prominent as Phals perhaps include a picture of your current second bloom Epi - Cheers <IMG class=inlineimg title=Celebration border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//anim65.gif">Can't boast about the photography, but I hope this gives you some idea.Thanks Angela! <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE>By Brutal_Dreamer in forum Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM Replies: 6 Last Post: 04-14-2012, 09:52 PM By Brutal_Dreamer in forum Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM Replies: 11 Last Post: 04-18-2011, 10:18 AM Replies: 27 Last Post: 06-17-2008, 06:47 PM By Ron-NY in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 10 Last Post: 02-16-2008, 07:23 PM By Tahaleiwai in forum New Growers: Ask the Senior Members Replies: 11 Last Post: 11-15-2007, 02:33 PM You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31019-what-do-do-spent-flowers-epidendrum.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-69417225535579476712012-05-04T23:44:00.000-07:002012-05-04T23:44:00.570-07:00 <BODY readability="65"><BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="69">Hi, <P>I got a Phalaenopsis recently, couple of weeks ago. Was in very good condition when it arrived, in clear pot filled with bark.</P><P>Since then, it's lost a couple of buds and it's leaves have started to go yellow and drop off, has lost two leaves and one of the remaining leaves is very yellow. and another one has started to go yellow along one edge.</P><P>I might have overwatered it to start with didn't realise quite how dry it should be. Also not as much light as recommended here. Also it fell in a bath full of water by accident - was in the water only for a few seconds, dried it out with a towel, and one of the flower stems almost broke (bent over) in the fall - but I straightened it up and fastened it back on again and it's looking fine.</P><P>The main thing is it's quite cold here for a Phalaenopsis. Day time temperature is 10 - 15C most days (50 - 60F), night time 5-10C, (40 -50F) that's outside temperatures but as I don't find it cold at all myself, I never have any heating on until it goes well below 5C and leave windows open also this time of year, so temperature inside the house is similar to the outside.</P><P>Didn't realise when I got it that it's minimum recommended temperature is as high as 10C.</P><P>So anyway is it dropping leaves and buds because of the cold or for some other reason? Also does it look as if it will recover with right treatment?</P><P>It's a new house, just moved in, I will probably eventually get a greenhouse or the like but don't have one yet. Or might get or build some kind of a mini greenhouse and keep it indoors in an indoors greenhouse.</P><P>One idea I had was to get a greenhouse heater, set it to say 10C (50F) and put it in the bathroom, and keep the orchid there whenever the temperature is too low. </P><P>Meanwhile as on most days I get too much hot water for my own use from the solar panels I've taken to half filling the bath with hot water at night and putting the orchid on the window shelf above the bath to give it a bit of extra warmth and moisture.</P><P>Photos of it:</P><P>The whole plant</P><P><IMG border=0 alt="Name: moth orchid 2.jpg<br />Views: 73<br />Size: 89.2 KB" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//53060d1335974401-phalaenopsis-dropping-leaves-cold-moth-orchid-2.jpg"></P><P>Close up of the yellow leaf:<BR><IMG border=0 alt="Name: moth orchid leaf.jpg<br />Views: 46<br />Size: 64.7 KB" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//53061d1335974499-phalaenopsis-dropping-leaves-cold-moth-orchid-leaf.jpg"></P><P>Roots<BR><IMG border=0 alt="Name: moth orchid roots.jpg<br />Views: 46<br />Size: 74.2 KB" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//53062d1335974632-phalaenopsis-dropping-leaves-cold-moth-orchid-roots.jpg"></P><P><IMG border=0 alt="Name: moth orchid roots 2.jpg<br />Views: 47<br />Size: 81.8 KB" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//53063d1335974653-phalaenopsis-dropping-leaves-cold-moth-orchid-roots-2.jpg"></P><P>Thanks for your help. </P></BLOCKQUOTE><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31167-phalaenopsis-dropping-leaves-cold.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-31931761793494490592012-05-04T20:00:00.000-07:002012-05-04T20:00:00.285-07:00 <BODY readability="44">This is a discussion on New root growing from old Phal root?</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; As you can see, there seems to be a new root growing from the bigger ...</P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/30880-new-root-growing-old-phalaenopsis-root.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-45405082943531668612012-05-04T15:06:00.000-07:002012-05-04T15:06:00.312-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P>This is a discussion on Encyclia (Gay Rabbit)</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; Hello again Most Knowledgeable Ones, From what I can tell from post about Encyclia, they ...</P><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> Encyclia (Gay Rabbit) <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="34">Hello again Most Knowledgeable Ones, <P>From what I can tell from post about Encyclia, they prefer to be mounted. Do you think it will be a good idea to mount my Gay Rabbit? It has one nice Pbulb and two really small one. I just recently tried my hand at mounting so not a lot of experience. Also, I travel for work so it would be difficult for me to water regularly on a consistent basis.</P><P>Thanks for any input </P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">If you are not able to water regularly, I would not mount your orchid. It will dry out pretty quickly when mounted and the p-bulbs will begin to shrivel and the orchid will go downhill. JMHO. Grow it potted. <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="30">Thanks for the reply Bruce. When I travel it is normally for about 2.5 days out of the week. That is the most they will go without water unless I am traveling internationally. Would mounted orchids need to be watered more than every 2.5 days. I am not dead set on mounting it, I just want to give it the best chance to thrive. <P>Regards, </P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="31">Thanks for the reply Bruce. When I travel it is normally for about 2.5 days out of the week. That is the most they will go without water unless I am traveling internationally. Would mounted orchids need to be watered more than every 2.5 days. I am not dead set on mounting it, I just want to give it the best chance to thrive. <P>Regards,</P>Oh! I thought you meant for a week or more at a time. 2.5 days should be fine depending on the temperature and air movement. You should try mounting it if this is the time schedule. Good luck Miller! <P>cheers,<BR>BD <IMG class=inlineimg title="Big Grin" border=0 alt="" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//biggrin.gif"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE><BLOCKQUOTE class="signature restore"></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore">Although many mounted orchids need to be watered daily, that's not the case with many encyclias. I water a mounted cordigera once a week during the winter and twice a week during the spring and summer. I don't have any experience with 'Gay Rabbit' though. Like Bruce said, it may be easier to manage in a pot. </BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="30">Thanks again, I will give mounting a try. It has a flower spike now, most the flowers have begun to fall, I will wait until they all fall then mount. I have a nice piece of cork bark from one of my snake cages that will be nice for it. I will post pics of the mounting once done. <P>Regards, </P></BLOCKQUOTE><IMG alt=Default src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//icon1.gif"> <BLOCKQUOTE class="postcontent restore" readability="29">Thank you for the additional insight. I have not mounted it yet but I did pick up a new den today and a Cattlaya today. <P>Regards</P>Although many mounted orchids need to be watered daily, that's not the case with many encyclias. I water a mounted cordigera once a week during the winter and twice a week during the spring and summer. I don't have any experience with 'Gay Rabbit' though. Like Bruce said, it may be easier to manage in a pot.</BLOCKQUOTE>By RedEcho in forum Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM Replies: 23 Last Post: 02-12-2012, 11:43 AM By GRMRA-GUA in forum Orchids of Other Genera IN BLOOM Replies: 8 Last Post: 01-31-2012, 04:29 PM By Lizgeo in forum Cattleyas, Vandas, Dendrobiums IN BLOOM Replies: 7 Last Post: 11-24-2009, 02:33 PM By Bikerdoc5968 in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 3 Last Post: 08-13-2009, 06:13 PM By Alplily NH in forum General Orchid Culture Replies: 12 Last Post: 03-04-2009, 06:07 PM You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/31075-encyclia-gay-rabbit.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7865668027968199342.post-61913863300971402012-05-04T12:00:00.000-07:002012-05-04T12:00:02.548-07:00 <P><IMG alt="OrchidTalk Orchid Forums - Grow Orchids! - The Orchid Forums for Orchid Growers" src="http://www.cimonsays.com/webmagnets//normallogo.png"><P></P><P>Welcome to OrchidTalk Orchid Forums</P><BR>The Friendliest Orchid Community on the Internet!</P><BR><B> »</B> Learn to Repot your Orchids<B> »</B> Learn Orchid Care Tips and Secrets<B> »</B> Find the perfect Orchid for your Growing Environment<B> »</B> Chat with Orchid Growing Professionals<BR>OrchidTalk - "Bringing People Together to Grow Orchids Better!"</P><BR>Let us help you grow your Orchids better; Join our community today.</P><BR>YES! I want to register an account for free right now!</P><BR>Register or Login now to remove this advertisement.</P>This is a discussion on Rhychovanda sri parent name</EM> within the <B>New Growers: Ask the Senior Members</B> forums, part of the New Growers category; hi, I have a Rhynchovanda sri orchid, now I want to know the parents. Anyone ...</P>You <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post new threadsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post repliesYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> post attachmentsYou <STRONG>may not</STRONG> edit your postsOrchid Forum Rules</P><P></P><br /><p><a href="http://www.rv-orchidworks.com/orchidtalk/new-growers-ask-senior-members/30903-rhychovanda-sri-parent-name.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">View the original article here</a></p>Peterhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14044446185543211840noreply@blogger.com0