Cashmere, Leather & Fur

Leboutin: Christian Louboutin at home and in his Paris studi...

2013-01-15T15:52:00.001-08:00

Leboutin: Christian Louboutin at home and in his Paris studi...: Thanks to Selby.com for the wonderful pictures of Mr. Louboutin in his home and work space.

Kim Kardashian in leather pants and fur!

2012-11-13T01:11:00.000-08:00

From the Huffington Post

Leather-lover Kim Kardashian donned leggings and a see-through tank top Monday in Miami. The 31-year-old reality star and girlfriend of Kanye West showed off her uniform of black leather pants and high heels as she made her way out onto a sidewalk with an entourage in tow.

Kardashian is in Miami filming the upcoming season of "Kourtney and Kim Take Miami," premiering on E! in January 2013. And from the look of things, Kardashian has been keeping a super-tight schedule: Just yesterday, she attended the MTV European Music Awards with beau West wearing -- you guessed it -- a black, leather-like dress.

Kim wearing leather pants and black fur

How to Clean Leather with Nivea Creme

2012-10-25T02:12:00.000-07:00

No need to spend money on expensive leather cleaners to get your leather goods in pristine condition when the humble Nivea Creme does an excellent job! Works especially well on marks and scuffs as well as a general clean.

1. Make sure the leather surface is dry
2. Dab a small amount of Nivea Creme to a tissue or soft cloth and begin to 'buff' the leather surface.
It can be helpful to buff in small circles to best target all the surface area.
3. Repeat Step 2 by adding more Nivea Creme to your cloth and keep buffing. Some stains may need several attempts to lift the stain.

Chanel buys Hawick cashmere mill Barrie

2012-10-22T01:59:00.000-07:00

Luxury goods firm Chanel has bought the Barrie Knitwear cashmere mill in the Scottish Borders, following the collapse of owner Dawson International.

Chanel said the company's current management would stay in place.

Barrie Knitwear was a trading division of Dawson International, which was placed in administration in August because of the size of its pension liabilities.Chanel did not disclose how much it paid for the Barrie Knitwear business and its assets.

Chanel fashion president Bruno Pavlovsky said: "The acquisition of Barrie business by Chanel is all the more natural as the factory has worked with us for more than 25 years, producing cashmere knitwear including Chanel's iconic two-tone cashmere cardigans.

"Through this acquisition, we reaffirm our commitment to traditional expertise and craftsmanship, and our wish to safeguard their future and support their development."

Chanel said Barrie would continue to "pursue its partnerships with all major luxury brands, with no exclusivity" and grow its own brands presence around the world.

Senior Scottish organiser Alex McLuckie said: "GMB Scotland always felt confident that this highly skilled, productive and fairly loyal workforce which produces a high quality product would be saved.

"It lifts the uncertainty for the 180 employees and we can now look forward to continuing employment for our members in the Hawick site now and into the future."

Deputy First Minister Nicola Sturgeon said Scotland's cashmere industry employed about 4,000 people and contributed almost £200m to the economy.

She added: "This acquisition reinforces Scotland's position as one of the world's leading spinners of quality cashmere yarn and strengthens Scotland's global reputation as a leader in luxury fabrics, cashmere knitwear and designer brands."

Grace Kelly Fur Wearing Tribute!

2012-10-11T02:36:00.000-07:00

A timeless beauty with a classic sense of style. Here to enjoy is a selection of Grace Kelly through her years wearing fur:

Princess Grace with Prince Rainier and Hermes Kelly bag.

Staying true to her Irish roots on St. Patrick's Day

Killer heels! Watch out Louboutin

2012-10-07T03:28:00.000-07:00

Here is a tale from Sydney, Australia of shoe being used as a weapon. No doubt a Louboutin is needed at hand at all times in these dangerous areas.

A woman needed stitches after allegedly being hit in the face with a high-heeled shoe at a hotel in Sydney's south. The 32-year-old suffered a cut to her forehead, just above the left eye, when she was allegedly struck with a shoe during an argument at the Sutherland venue about 4.30am (AEDT) on Sunday, police said.
She was taken to Sutherland Hospital where the gash was stitched.
A 21-year-old woman was later charged with reckless wounding and bailed to appear in Sutherland Local Court on November 1.
Police said the shoes were seized further examination.
AAP

Christian Louboutin Self-defence

Kim Kardashian wearing Fur

2012-10-01T05:07:00.000-07:00

A photo tribute to Kim Kardashian wearing fur:

With Hermes in hand

Vintage Kim

Feathers and Fur

Black Fox fur bolero

Dressed up with a matching hat

Lady Gaga Fur Ensemble Offends the Faint Hearted

2012-09-21T03:35:00.000-07:00

By John Boone
Blinged-out burqa? Check. Clutch bedazzled with an expletive? Check. The corpses of what appear to be four or so raccoons dangling as if in an attempt to one-up Daniel Boone's signature cap? Check, check, check and...check!

Throw it all together and what do you have? A Lady Gaga outfit that seemingly has the lofty goal of just about pissing off...well, everyone. All together now: "Oh, Gaga." (We assume you threw in an exasperated sigh and some head shaking for effect).

While leaving the Philip Treacy fashion show in London over the weekend, the "Born This Way" singer donned this begging-for-controversy ensemble (among a few more looks) comprised of silk scarves of sorts and a bag classily boasting "C--T" in rhinestones.
If PETA didn't already think the Lady was heartless, they're probably furiously packing their paint pails as we speak.

http://au.eonline.com/news/346923/lady-gaga-covers-all-controversial-bases-with-a-burqa-fur-and-slur

Do you love Burberry or do you LOVE Burberry?

2012-09-18T01:02:00.000-07:00

Jens Werner, 33, painted his house in the famous beige, black and red tartan design. The re-painting of the building in Larvik, Norway took several weeks at a cost of thousands of pounds.

Artist Jens woke up one day and thought it was a fun idea.

The makeover of the property was part of an effort to turn Jens' home into a 'gathering place for happy people, peace-on-earth-mentality and art-loving people'.

How to Wash Cashmere with The Laundress

2012-09-17T03:49:00.000-07:00

Don't let the dry cleaners ruin your fine cashmere!

Our rule of thumb for blended fabric is to wash according to the highest percentage. i.e. if your sweater is 70% cashmere and 30% silk, wash with Wool & Cashmere and follow the appropriate washing recipe.

Tools:
The Laundress Wool and Cashmere Shampoo, The Laundress Stain Solution and/or The Laundress Wash and Stain Bar

Optional:
Fabric Fresh Cedar, Scented Vinegar, Sweater Stone, Mesh Bags, Stain Brush

Pre-treat:
• De-pill first if the item has heaving pilling. Brush the pilled areas with The Laundress Sweater Stone and shake out.
• Examine for stains: pre-treat with The Laundress Stain Solution or The Laundress Wash & Stain Bar. Always treat stains first and pre-soak for most effective removal
• To remove dirt, grease, grime (i.e. ring around the collar) treat with our Wash & Stain Bar. Wet bar and work into the fabric.
• To remove juice, wine, coffee, pen, chocolate use our Stain Solution and Stain Brush.
• To remove odors: pre-wash or pre-soak with The Laundress Scented Vinegar. Apply vinegar directly on odor areas and work stain solution into the fabric. Soak well.
• Turn your clothing inside out. This prevents abrasion and lengthens the life of colorant dyes.
• Do not mix colors, wash with like colors only.

Hand washing:
• Turn item inside out to wash the fabric where stains and odors buildup on the inside closest to your body and under arms.
• Prepare a “bath” –basin of cool/tepid water with 2 capfuls of The Laundress Wool and Cashmere Shampoo.
• Submerge item(s) in bath using your hands to agitate the water and detergent.
• Soak for at least ½ hour. It is harmless to leave soaking for longer unless you are washing silk.
DO NOT PANIC if you see color in the water. This is normal and it is simply the yarn dye releasing color. You will not notice any loss of color at the end.
• Rinse well - running room temperature water until soapy water is gone.
• Do not wring; press the water out of the item instead.

Machine washing:
• Change machine setting to woolens/delicate cycle. Make sure water temperature is cold. Add the appropriate amount of Wool & Cashmere Shampoo to the machine.
• Turn item inside out and place in The Laundress Mesh Bag and wash. Start cycle.
• Remove from the washer promptly to reduce creasing. Do not put in the dryer!

Dry/Finish:
• To dry - place item on top of a towel making sure the towel and item is flat and in its original shape, then roll up in the towel (like a rolling pin) to remove excess water.
To speed up the drying process, use more than one towel and repeat several times.
• To finish drying - lay item flat in its natural shape on a drying rack or towel. Hang, if item will not stretch or deform.
• When dry - finish removing any extra pills as noted above.
• We like to steam our wool/cashmere for the perfect finish. (this is not necessary, however).

Tips and Tricks:
• When storing for the season, spray with The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Spray and place in a breathable cotton bag with a zip closure such as The Laundress All Purpose Storage Bag.
Also store with a natural bug repellent such as Lavender, The Laundress Scented Squares.
• Hand washing will lengthen the life of colored garments.
• Clean your washer monthly with The Laundress Machine Cleaner to protect fibers and fading from machine build up, lime scale and rust. Add (1/2 cup, 4 oz, 120 ml) to your machine dispenser and run a long load with hot water. Run a second load with just water and you’re ready to go!

The Laundress Wool and Cashmere Shampoo

http://www.thelaundress.com/

Cashmere trends for men - crew neck

2012-09-15T20:05:00.001-07:00

The latest trend for men's sweaters is the crew-neck, recently spotted all over NY fashion week. Versatile and stylish, is there anything that can't be done wearing a crew neck?

The Traveler Cashmere Crew Neck Sweater is a bargain for $59.95 available in a range of colors.

Leather — the trend that won’t go away

2012-09-13T03:04:00.001-07:00

GALWAY ADVERTISER
Hands up, who has a leather jacket? If you answer yes, whatever you do, do not throw it away. If you answered no, now is the perfect time to make this all important investment. Leather is simply a trend that will not remove itself from society. So much so, it really cannot be called a trend any longer, it is a staple piece which should form part of every capsule wardrobe. Black, brown, dark berry shades, whatever your preference, this season is all about the longevity and versatility of leather. Catwalk trends vary – from full length leather coats at Michael Kors and Alberta Ferretti, to trousers by Yves Saint Laurent, dresses from Fendi, to the all-out bizarre and showstopping looks by Gareth Pugh and Rick Owens (look up these designers on the net to see the full shows). The high street collections are safer, but are impressive interpretations of the hottest designer looks.

The easiest piece to add to your new season wardrobe is definitely the jacket. I have several, from an Armani blazer style jacket to my favourite biker jacket from All Saints which is now in its seventh year. Despite being hard wearing, leather does tarnish, so I keep mine in dust covers just to keep any damp or, even worse, moths away. This season’s styles are numerous; short jackets, either smart and fitted or more edgy, are all-round cuts to suit everything in your wardrobe. I really like wearing biker jackets over floral dresses to balance a very girly look with something with a little attitude. An easy way to wear a leather jacket is to just introduce some detail, such as sleeves on a trench coat, sew some leather elbow pads onto a coat, or look for something with leather lapels and collars.

Treat yourself:

Kenneth Cole Women's Asymetrical Leather Jacket

MICHAEL Michael Kors Women's Racer Leather Jacket

Kris Jenner does leather dress - 'mutton dressed as lamb'

2012-09-13T01:58:00.000-07:00

Here is a great example of how NOT to wear leather. She is waaaaay too old for this outfit.

Get the look:

Mango Women's Leather Sides Dress

Armani Exchange Leather Flare Dress

Chains and Fur in Russia

2012-09-12T02:02:00.000-07:00

By Katya Kazakina

Unlike many of his colleagues, Russian-born fashion designer Leonid Gurevich had a strict no-access policy for his New York runway show at the cavernous Angel Orensanz Foundation on Sept. 9.
“I never let anyone backstage,”
“When I create a dream, I am not interested in anyone also seeing crumpled sheets, dentures in a glass
and a chamber pot under a bed.”

Inside the foundation, a 19th-century Gothic-revival former synagogue on the Lower East Side, red light
bathed the stone walls up to the vaulted ceiling. High above, the pointed arches were lit with blue,
pink and purple. Women in floor-length gowns and men in fedoras sipped champagne.
Gurevich’s “Tribute” collection was a homage to the wasp- waisted Russian film star Lyudmila Gurchenko (1935-2011), who wore Gurevich’s theatrical creations during the last years of her life. It was one of the more than 300 shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week, which ends on Sept. 13.
“Femininity is focal point in my designs,” Gurevich said. “I am sick and tired of androgyny in fashion.
I want to see women beautiful, feminine and above all enjoying the effect they create.”

The show opened with a high-volume Vivaldi recording with live accompaniment by a handsome accordionist who fancied himself a rock star. Festooned with lace, feathers, fur, chains, crushed velvet and metallic brocades, the outfits wouldn’t have been out of place in a Broadway musical.
“The fairytales, the decorativeness have been important to him since he was a student. They are part of his

Russian DNA,” said Daria Dorosh, Gurevich’s former fashion-design professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology.

“These dresses are for the elite and celebrities,” Gurevich said. “It’s couture. It’s not for the stores.”
Gurevich has worked for Zac Posen and has made clothes for socialite Daphne Guinness and model Amanda Lepore. Hip-hop singer Lil’ Kim wears one of his dresses on the cover of her “If You Love Me” single. “He’s very glamour-heavy” said Alina Fayerman, 25, a friend and client of the designer who attended the show. “He makes you feel sexy. Any time I wear his stuff, I get more compliments than when I wear Fendi or Cavalli.”

Lana Del Rey rides a motorbike - fur style!

2012-03-17T03:58:00.000-07:00

Though her fashion style is often a mixture of high-end and hipster pieces, Lana Del Rey hardly looks like a biker girl. So the Video Games singer found herself dressed somewhat unusually as she got ready to hop onto a friend's motorcycle last night in Los Angeles.
The 25-year-old chanteuse may have been the most fashionable girl to ever climb on a road hog, given that she was wearing a glamorous fur coat.

She paired an elegant, yet busy, button-down shirt with a thick gold necklace.
Her wet look jeans fit tightly in all the right places, yet she eschewed sexy heels for her favourite Converse trainers.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2116230/Lana-Del-Rey-prepares-hop-motorcycle-wearing-glam-fur-coat

Michael Kors Used to Wear Cashmere Leg Warmers

2012-02-11T15:39:00.000-08:00

By Jenni Avins
nymag.com

Designers and editors were nostalgic last night at the Museum at FIT’s opening of “Impact,” an exhibition of clothing by CFDA designers from the last 50 years. There was a lot to reminisce about: a circa-1981 Ralph Lauren Navajo blanket coat, nineties-era shiny minimalist Calvin Klein, a printed grunge dress by Marc Jacobs. A more recent Michael Kors look from Spring 2011 was totally tasteful — crystal-beaded pajama pants with a cashmere sweatshirt (just for laying around) — so when we saw the designer, we asked whether he had any regrettable fashion memories.

“Leg warmers,” he said. “I wore leg warmers. I wore leg warmers when I went to FIT and I shouldn’t have.” What were they made of? “Oh, I think they were cashmere, of course! Oatmeal! Oatmeal, with a Fiorucci jean.”

Essex Girls do it Better!

2012-02-08T01:27:00.000-08:00

From dailymail.co.uk

She was seen breaking down in tears on Wednesday's episode of TOWIE after discovering that her boyfriend Mario had been exchanging sexy emails with 'at least 40' other women.
But nothing keeps Lucy Mecklenburgh's spirits down for long.
The 20-year-old was clearly keen to draw attention as she stepped out to film scenes for the show alongside castmate Billi Mucklow in Essex wearing a bright red fur cloak and hat.

Billi was likewise dressed for the cold in a fur-trimmed pale tan cloak, with both girls wearing jeans and black boots.

Cashmere as the Cash Cow

2012-02-02T01:27:00.000-08:00

From the nytimes.com
By SUZY MENKES

MILAN — Denim and cashmere for a pair of luxe jeans, shearling and cashmere for a coat or a down jacket worked with cashmere — it seems that hybrids are the height of fashion. They are appearing in almost every show as a way to enrich apparently simple clothes and to highlight Italian craftsmanship.

It was good to see Angela Missoni introducing high tech fabrics alongside the more traditional slouchy thick-knit cardigans at the Missoni show Sunday — especially as an airy puffa vest worn under heavy knitting. When a down jacket was worked in shaded nylon jacquard in the moss green and chestnut of a winter landscape, it brought Missoni’s poetic vision to 21st-century fabrics.

There is always a sense that the Missoni man is casual, even messy, but between the gardener’s hats and Converse Auckland Racers on the feet, the mix had a lot of charm. Were there a few too many of those bulky cardigans? Always. But they made a good basis for new ideas.

Although cashmere is the cash cow at Ermenegildo Zegna, like other Italian brands with exceptional fabric skills, the melding of materials has become an art form.

Fendi men’s wear, displayed Sunday in a dramatic presentation as a runway-long line of sculptural mannequins, also had fabric combinations that flowed like a river from wool to fur.

The scene was set at Ermenegildo Zegna for a world that encompasses more than the sartorial tailoring on which the company built its fame. Screens showing a snowy exterior and the roaring fire of a snug interior positioned the collection toward the high end, technically inventive sportswear that has been such a hit with the companion brand Z Zegna.

The inventiveness is not, therefore, in cut or shape — although the Zegna pieces were well proportioned and modern from tailored coats to thick-knit cardigans. Instead, it was the production of its own wool mill and a newly acquired silk mill that came up with the new twist.

The idea of making a tuxedo in a furry fabric — in fact, a brushed alpaca first introduced by for women in the 1970s — might sound freaky. But the effect was elegantly luxurious. The same is true of “cashco,” or cashmere corduroy, that is now a Zegna staple.

“We want to make silk the cashmere of summer,” said Gildo Zegna, the brand’s chief executive, explaining how each base fiber can be linked to other options. That even includes men’s bags and carryalls with different fabrics on either side.

The concept is of a collection that, while researched and made with impressive inventiveness, needed to be touched by human hands to be appreciated and understood.

“We have reconstructed it completely,” said Massimiliano Giornetti at Salvatore Ferragamo , referring both to the sharp cutting into soft fabrics like velvet and to a new configuration for the brand’s show Sunday that let the light shine in.

Both were symbolic of a new relevance and energy that the designer has brought to Ferragamo, attracting a young clientele like the Hollywood star Ryan Gosling and the Korean actor Yoo Ji Tae who was sitting front row.

What’s the difference? The answer is in giving classic a shot of originality, whether it was the suffused colors from rose wine to burgundy, herringbone tweed with a twist of imagination or the silvered metallic half-moon strip on every hand-painted and polished shoe. Silver? With such discreet and stylish branding touches, Ferragamo should hit gold.

“Everything is tonal,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi, referring to what seemed like a simpleFendi collection of mostly casual pieces — until you understood the workmanship behind them.

“It’s about going back to navy, but with workmanship so that the fabrics have texture, moving from wool to shearling or shaved mink.”

Jersey knitwear morphed from fine to thicker areas within a single garment and a sporty nylon jacket would, in fact, be lined with shearling or a knit would be allied with suede. The idea stretched to evening wear, with a mink tuxedo looking as streamlined as cloth.

Perhaps only Italian companies, with their exceptional fabric know-how, could either envision or create these hybrids. For, while they might be imagined as lumpy or weird, the opposite was true at Fendi.

You could not have known or even perceived the compositions until they were explained — making Ms. Fendi’s decision to stage a presentation a smart move for the company.

With stealth wealth ever more the demand of the global male, the idea of hiding the work and the fine fabrics that go into a reversible leather and knitwear jacket is on target for modern times.

Sable Fur Fashion Show - How to wear fur coats

2012-01-23T01:33:00.000-08:00

Some great ideas on wearing sable!

Cashmere Confidential For the season of sweater buying, some tips on how to tell the good from the bad

2012-01-14T02:36:00.000-08:00

Buying a cashmere sweater used to be a simple thing. The wool came from the bellies of goats in India or Tibet and was spun in Scotland. Cashmere goods were generally expensive, but rare, and worth the cost. "In the old days, cashmere had a certain allure, and the allure created a certain price point," said veteran cashmere salesman Jack Bain, who has represented Pringle of Scotland and a number of Scottish woolen mills. Now, chains are selling cashmere sweaters for less than $100. According to Mr. Bain, "cashmere is generic, like a jockey short."

Many manufacturers today employ cost-saving methods that impoverish the product: using fibers of varying length, spinning the wool before it's fully dried after dyeing. A salesperson is not likely to talk about these shortcuts, and they don't have a particularly noticeable effect on how a cashmere sweater looks or feels—at least, not at first. Give an inferior cashmere sweater a few wears, though, and you'll see it starts to pill much sooner than a good one.

Meanwhile, luxury labels have found ways (adding fur trim, using baby cashmere) to up the ante. In short, the difference between good and bad cashmere has never been so pronounced. The goats of Mongolia, Iran and Afghanistan are now part of the global supply chain, and even the most respected purveyors also sell lower grades of cashmere. With price and provenance telling less and less of the story, the average retail customer buys cashmere with only a dim idea of what he's paying for.

Fortunately, there are some ways for the consumer to test a garment's quality, including its pilling potential. Stretch the fabric with your hands; if it reverts immediately to its former shape, that's good. If not, it may contain cheaper fabrics or have been knit too loosely. According to Cédric Turk, executive vice president and general manager at Zilli, an upscale French cashmere brand, the density of a cashmere garment's weave is a sign of quality. "Cheaper brands knit with more space because it takes less time and cashmere," Mr. Turk noted. Hold an expensive sweater up to the light—you shouldn't be able to see through it.

A common misconception is that softer cashmere is better, but it's not that simple. A fabric's fluff could be the result of fine fibers and spinning—or of harsh artificial softeners.

Some cashmere brands, including high-end European ones, soften up their sweaters with repeated washings. Scottish traditionalists consider this gilding the lily—and point out that it reduces the garment's lifespan. Established Scottish manufacturers such as Todd & Duncan, founded in 1867 and suppliers of yarn to Brooks Brothers and Hermès, claim that the soft, pure loch water in which they wash and dye their cashmere swells the fabric more delicately than additional washing does. Even if a four-ply Scottish sweater feels slightly coarser on the shelf than its French or Italian counterpart, the argument goes, it lasts for decades, arriving at cozy perfection around the time those fancy continental sweaters might start to pill. On the other hand, there's something to be said for that "instant, tangible feel of luxury," said premium-cashmere purveyor Brunello Cucinelli.

Although most shoppers will probably never become experts on the matter, they can examine sweaters for bubbles or so-called "chicken feet," ripples and wrinkles in a weave that appear when factories knit too fast. Or, follow Mr. Turk's advice that particularly in cashmere, established brands have the edge, if only because customers have put their product's durability to the test for decades. Cashmere, after all, should be soft but rugged, have real weight but feel light as air. And by no means must it have origins in Kashmir, the mountainous region from which it takes its name. In other words, it should discreetly defy logic. As Mr. Turk said, "That's the magic of cashmere."

—Darrell Hartman

Refurbished: Fur makeovers take center stage - Restyling and recycling old fur is a popular option this season

2012-01-05T00:13:00.000-08:00

By John-John Williams IV, The Baltimore Sun

Doris Randall hadn't worn her brown bomber mink coat in ages. Her full-length shearling coat got even less use — she wore it about twice in the 15 years since her husband gave it to her.
She considered giving the garments to charity before discovering Seleh's De Federal Hill, a tailor and furrier specializing in remodeling leathers and furs. A few months later, Randall had a new three-quarter-length coat for herself and a contemporary-looking mink vest with black sweater sleeves that she gave to her daughter.
"It was a Iot like putting together a puzzle," the Pikesville resident said. "They made it work, and made something that we are both enjoying. I've been able to get a lot of wear throughout the winter. I saw the vest on my daughter the other day."

The days of bulky furs are over. Cost-conscious consumers, environmental concerns and changing fashion trends have made recycling and refashioning furs a popular option in recent years. As a result, a growing number of furriers, designers and boutique owners are cashing in on the trend and are catering to a new crop of customers.
Furs are prime candidates for refashioning; people typically don't throw them away because of their costs and sentimental feelings associated with the garment, according to Karen Groner, an adjunct professor specializing in leather design at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Groner, who has 30 years of experience in the business, also owns Grownbeans, a small Manhattan studio that specializes in suede, leather and fur.
"We associate wearing [fur] coats with it being a special occasion," Groner said. "There's a real attraction. They are associated with happy times. … People want to hold on to that memory. But they also want to keep up with the style. Fashion changes. A coat doesn't look good with those '80s shoulder pads."
Seleh Rahman, owner of Seleh's De Federal Hill, said remodeled fur projects are up 75 percent at his shop.
"The last three seasons, it has been a big-ticket item," Rahman said from his South Charles Street workroom, where he was in the process of lengthening a mink coat. His assistant was putting the finishing touches on the fur-trim collar accents of a cashmere coat.

Rahman takes older, heavier furs and turns them into thinner, more contemporary-looking jackets and vests. He's also known for his ability to create virtually any garment from fur pieces, including handbags, decorative trim for jean jackets and bow ties.
"It's a complicated process," said Rahman, who has operated the business for the past 36 years. "You have to be really skilled, so that the furs can match and look correct. Really, you only get one shot."
The labor and skill required to complete a fur redesign doesn't come cheap, and projects can cost several thousand dollars.

"It takes a lot of work to rework a coat," Groner said. "You have to completely take it apart and completely put it back together. And then you pray that it holds up."
A complete fur redesign project usually takes about four to six weeks. During this time, pelts are restored, oiled, and refashioned. Customers typically meet with the designer several times for fittings and to discuss pattern options.

Mano Swartz, the Green Spring Station furrier, offers a "Mano-makeover," in which the company promises to repurpose outdated furs into contemporary lightweight pieces in four to six weeks. Prices range from $450 for a pull-string caplet to $2,750 for a reversible coat.
"It's much less expensive to redo something than to buy something new," said Debbie Swartz, the designer and buyer at Mano Swartz. She noticed a significant spike in refashioned and repaired furs three years ago. "It's really nice to be able to show them the options that they didn't know existed."
The downturn in the economy has also increased business for shops that can restore coats, saving owners the cost of replacing them.

Erin Hopkins has had her eight-year-old black mink coat repaired by Rahman a couple of times in the past few years, including having the pockets repaired and the sleeves redone.
Why hasn't she given the coat away?
"I worked hard for that coat," the Federal Hill resident said with a laugh. Hopkins' husband gave it to her as a reward for attending 15 University of Texas football games with him. "It took me 19 years to get that coat."
Fur has also remained a staple in fashion, especially in the colder months, and designers have shown it some love recently. Gucci's 1970s-inspired fall and winter lines for 2011 and 2012 seem to have jump-started the latest fur resurgence, according to fashion experts. As a result, many designers scrambled to find fur to accent garments.

Swartz points to Gucci's collection when helping customers choose new ways to refashion older garments. "I try and show our customers what is going on in fashion now," she said. "Some customers really get it and love it."

Karen Garalde, a Baltimore-based designer who specializes in using eco-friendly materials, has also been following the trends and is in the process of designing several pieces using recycled fur.
"This season I knew that I wanted to play with more texture," Garalde said. "I love vintage fur. I thought it would be fun and interesting. I noticed that there has been a huge trend for fur this season."
Garalde, who has made garments from items such as coffee filters and salvaged fabrics, said she has few reservations about using vintage furs.

"Since it's not new, I feel better about it," Garalde said." I know that it is sustainable. That's what makes me more intrigued to use it."
Environmental implications played a large factor when Hampden boutique owner Linda Pfleiderer decided to carry Harricana, a Canadian-based line of recycled fur products.
"We loved the concept of recycling and giving new life to things that would be thrown away," said Pfleiderer, who co-owns In The Details, a men's and women's boutique that has been open less than a year. "We thought it was a really cool line."

Customers have responded favorably, purchasing handbags, fur accented hats, scarves, and cross-body bags. Pieces range from $26 up to $514.
Her customers "are really into the fur, and they are into the recycled aspect. It's really good for the environment," Pfleiderer said. "And they are getting really cool-looking pieces."
Above all, customers like the look of recycled fur pieces, according to merchants.
"I love when customers come in and say they never wore it, and now it is their everyday coat," Swartz said. "That makes me so happy. We can always craft a coat. There is always something we can do."
Randall, the Pikesville resident who had two of her furs redesigned, is pleased with her new garments.
"I consider him an extremely lucky find," she said of Rahman. "I was going in blind. I was extremely pleased. My friends have beaten a path to his door."

Even in hard times, soft still sells at Pur Cashmere

2011-11-21T20:59:00.000-08:00

Leslie Deane Roth is a master of the soft sell.
Cashmere, to be precise. Many of the blankets, throws, pillow covers, scarves and other items she offers through Palm Desert-based Pur Cashmere LLC are made of fine cashmere fibers combed from Mongolian goats each spring after the animals endured hard winters.

Such culling is labor-intensive, so durable cashmere is expensive.

“Right now, people are very price-conscious,” Roth said. “People maybe can't afford to buy a new sofa, but they'll buy a throw, a new bedspread. It brightens up your life, but it's not that expensive.”

When the recession altered consumers' attitudes and prompted many to be more value-oriented, Roth helped design and create a blend of soft yarns. They're made from the heart of bamboo plants and cashmere fibers, have a similar look and feel of pure cashmere, but are less expensive.

Roth was able to engineer the yarns based on three decades of experience in the textile industry.

She started in Los Angeles, eventually becoming one of the first women to source textile materials for large companies in Asia. She worked with suppliers to import cashmere items from Mongolia even though most of them didn't speak English at the time.

In 2005, Roth decided to break out on her own. She surprised many in her family by launching Pur Cashmere with $10,000 she borrowed against equity in her Boston home.

She was confident in her vision for the company.

“It took off, and I haven't had to borrow money since,” Roth said.

“I figured either it will grow organically or I'll close shop.”

Roth moved to the desert this spring and bought a mid-century home in Palm Desert.
She has grandchildren in the San Deigo area and decided to establish her business at a warehouse suite on Joni Drive.

Pur Cashmere offers nearly 50 products billed as “refined luxury for modern lifestyles.”

Her core customers are mostly 25- to 45-year-olds from across America and beyond.

Pur Cashmere supplies several local specialty retailers, including Tuverson & Co., and Jolie Maison — both in Palm Desert.
“We just had a big buy from Amazon,” said Roth, noting online sales have been brisk at her website purcashmere.com.

Roth is planning a warehouse sale in March.

Finding inspiration
Although the small warehouse suite just off Cook Street has no company sign, Roth and three employees spend days filling customer orders.

They're surrounded by colorful stacks of shawls, wraps, driving blankets and other items.

There are honeysuckle and chocolate chiffon ribbons, plaid scarves of cocoa, gold and blue, crème ultrawool Jacquard throws.

Roth has designed many of the cashmere, bamboo and other blended items, which are made in Mongolia and shipped here.

Although the cashmere industry is comparatively small, the product has held up well despite difficulties in many key markets because it's viewed as high-quality, “extremely light, yet extraordinarily warm,” said Michael Duck, executive vice president with trade fair organizer UBM Asia Ltd., which put on the Cashmere World event in October in Beijing.

“The majority of cashmere comes from northern China,” Duck said.

Roth finds inspiration to design her products at museums and through art. She attended graduate school in Boston and studied architecture and museum studies.

Roth said Californians tend to embrace brighter colors.

“You go into somebody's house and say, ‘What would fit in here?' You think of colors.”

Roth works with Asian suppliers to create the colors and designs, often communicating late at night because of the time difference.

Nowadays, most younger Asian managers not only speak English but are business-savvy and understand American nuances, she said.

“They're very personable,” Roth said.

“I know their families, when they're getting married, their children. They're very hard-working and resourceful, and I have a lot of respect for them.”
By Mike Perrault

Proper care for your leather and exotic skin fashion investments

2011-08-12T03:11:00.000-07:00

by Celine Gabriel

Every stylista knows the value of a good piece of skin, whether that be leather, snakeskin, croc, alligator or ostrich, etc. With proper care, these investment pieces will age gracefully and can be made to last a lifetime.
Here are some tips on how to care for your special leather items:
Probably the most important part of caring for these special items is how we store it. Never store the items in non-breathable materials, such as plastic, as this will dry up the leather.
Avoid very humid and dry environments. This shortens the life expectancy of your leather.
If the item gets wet, allow it to dry out naturally, away from any heat source which can damage the skin’s natural oils. Excessive dryness can cause the skin to crack, while excessive moisture will cause mildew.
Treat your leather with a conditioner (you can buy this in any department store) every 6 months to restore flexibility and proper moisture levels.
For suede and nubuck, wipe it off with a terry cloth towel to restore its look.
When it comes to more exotic skins, like python, croc and alligator for instance, special attention must be given to its cleaning, which cannot be treated by traditional leather products. Particularly with python, which is a type of snakeskin, the scales will eventually dry out and curl up off the bag. Considering the cost of python, proper care for you snakeskin item is most important in order for it to last years in good condition.
Here are some tips on how to care for your special exotic skin items:

• Dampen a small piece of cloth with warm water and wipe down your snakeskin item, smoothing in the direction of the scales to avoid lifting them up.

• Pat the item dry with a towel as excess wetness can cause the skin to darken.

• If you need to clean beneath the scales, clean each individual scale gently with a cotton swab, being careful not to lift it any more than necessary.

• Dry the bag in a cool, dark place. Do not speed dry with a source of heat as this will cause the scales to dry out and lift faster.

• Once dry, apply an exotic skin conditioner, again smoothing in the direction of the scales.

• For crocodile and alligator leather, use the same method of wiping the item down with a damp piece of cloth, patting it dry with a towel, drying the bag in a cool, dark place and then applying an exotic skin conditioner.

Comment, questions, suggestions? Please email me at celine_gabriel_column@yahoo.com

Fur on the Catwalk

2011-03-27T05:02:00.000-07:00

By Vanessa Friedman
There was one trend in Milan that overwhelmed all others. One trend that surpassed, say, a love of 1970s shades like purple, teal and mustard, or an embrace of tuxedo dressing, or a strange attraction to gold pleated palazzo pants, all trends which appeared on many, but not every, runway. This trend showed up on nearly every catwalk and in nearly every presentation and next season, like it or not, will be impossible to ignore.

That trend was fur, and though some of it was fake (see Prada and Bottega Veneta) and some of it was “eco” (see Emporio Armani, though what exactly “eco” fur is was never defined), most of it was very, very real.

Now, before you go and say, “But there is fur on the runway every autumn/winter, especially in Milan, home of traditional skins houses,” know this: even given that truth, it is still impossible to remember a season that involved so much animal attraction. The lone hold-outs were Jil Sander, where Raf Simons was busy exploring the technical side of skiwear and couture, and Valextra, where the newest launch was the “Madison”, a cross between a structured handbag and a briefcase. But everywhere else, as far as the eye could see: fox and raccoon and chinchilla and mink and sable and skunk. And not just on coats.

There were floor-length fur skirts at Giorgio Armani; intarsia furs at Versace; furs in all colours of the rainbow at Gucci; fur bibs at Prada. There were sheepskin spike-heeled boots and big smooshy bags at Bally; Mongolian lamb cross-body totes at Furla and Mongolian lamb sleeves on cashmere sweaters at Ballantyne; mink fur booties at Jimmy Choo; and mink stiletto sandals at René Caovilla. There were even matching white fox bags and boots at Tod’s. A girl could be forgiven for thinking she had taken a wrong turn at the catwalks and wandered on to the set of Wild Kingdom.

The question, of course, is why, and for that we go to Tommaso Bruso, the chief executive of Furla. “It’s the perception of value,” he said. “Brands need to show consumers what they are paying for, and this is one way to do it: by investing heavily in materials.”

But aren’t they afraid of a backlash? Before the shows, the animal rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) sent around a group mailing describing, in graphic terms, the problems they saw with fur, and young actresses/role models such as Natalie Portman and Emma Watson are vocally anti-fur.
The answer, pretty much everywhere, was: “no”. They did their due diligence, they are satisfied with their suppliers, the ethical questions were asked and answered. Get ready for things to heat up, in every sense of the word.
For more news on the shows, visit Vanessa Friedman’s blog, www.ft.com/materialworld

Kate Moss dominates in Leather

2011-02-23T23:01:00.000-08:00

By Jodie Thomson

Just 24 hours after hitting the town for London Fashion Week and ditching her dress halfway through the night, Kate Moss made another serious fashion statement as she headed out to the NME awards.

Never one to disappoint in the fashion stakes, the model this time chose to cover it all up - in a floor length black leather dress.

The supermodel, 37, paired the dominatrix inspired frock with a black blazer and black patent stilettos as she headed over to the Brixton Academy, accompanied by her rockstar beau Jamie Hince for the music magazines annual bash.

Kate has been a prominent face on the London social scene this week and had another busy day of it following her raucous night earlier this week. Then she started off at Number 10 Downing Street, ended up minus a dress, plus a kebab with an added fracas on the side courtesy of fiancé Jamie and some photographers.