Confessions of a Castleholic

Gone Castle Hunting

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 01 Jun 2023 19:39:00 +0000

After much deliberation (and possibly a suspiciously long nap), this Castleholic has decided to follow in the noble footsteps of Sleeping Beauty, pricking a finger on the spindle of life and drifting into a temporary slumber. As a result, there will be no new posts on this blog for the time being. The castles, rest assured, are still standing. It is merely their chronicler who has dozed off somewhere between a drawbridge and a spiral staircase.

Fear not, dear fellow castleholics - this shall not be a curse, merely a pause. The adventures continue, just in a slightly more… immediate format. For glimpses of turrets, tales and the occasional overly enthusiastic appreciation of Baroque splendour, you can follow along on Instagram, where this Castleholic remains very much awake (most of the time). Until the spell lifts, consider this a quiet chapter in the story - until some day a kiss will breath life into this blog once more.

Head this way to Instagram.

Beyond Potsdam: Eleven Castles in Brandenburg to Visit Off the Beaten Path

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 27 Jan 2023 17:02:00 +0000

From the Prussian palaces of Potsdam to plentiful noble homes scattered all around the state, we have probably covered dozens and a dozen more of castles located in Brandenburg, the German state surrounding Berlin. (Find all of them here.) But still, there are a gazillion more to discover, so here are ten castles you have probably never heard of. Most of them actually aren't open to the public yet many of them have surrounding parks you can stroll through. How I visit them? These sorts of castles usually aren't the main destination of my days out castle hunting. I either see them on the way to or back from places open to the public or I try to include them in a hike.

Schloss Wiesenburg

Schloss Wiesenburg may just be the most idyllically located of all idyllically located castles on this list. Looking over a large park, its origins date back to the Middle Ages when a fortified castle was located on the same site. The oldest parts of today's Renaissance-style Schloss date back to the 16th century with a major Neo-Renaissance remodelling taking place during the 1860's according to plans by Oskar Mothes. At the time, it was owned by German politician Curt von Watzdorf. Over the last few years, Schloss Wiesenburg became an apartment building.

Burg Eisenhardt

While the hike that first led me to Schloss Wiesenburg started at said train station nearby, it ended with another castle in Bad Belzig. Burg Eisenhardt was firstly mentioned over a thousand years ago in 997 though its current name only dates back to the 15th century. During its long history, a great many famous people stayed at the castle including Martin Luther and Russian tsar Peter I.

Schloss Meseberg

Schloss Meseberg and its perfectly manicured trees are a regular feature in Germany's evening news. Why? The Baroque palace north of Berlin is the retreat of the Chancellor of Germany and the official state guest house of the German Federal Government. Built by the Wartensleben family, the Schloss was at one point in history owned by Prince Heinrich of Prussia, brother of Friedrich II, who gifted it to Christian Ludwig von Kaphengst. The property was later purchased by the Lessing family, who were the owners of a publishing company. During the Nazi era, it was forcibly acquired by Hermann Göring and later appropriated by the Soviet occupation in 1945. It is currently owned by the Messerschmidt Foundation who leases it to the German government.

Schloss Altranft

As early as the 16th century, the von Pfuel family owned the estate Schloss Altranft is situated on. Originally, it was a rather simple manor house that was repeatedly converted and extended over the centuries. The building was transformed into its current shape in 1876 when Count Erwin Carl Wilhelm von Hacke called it his home. Owned by the state of Brandenburg, it houses a museum dedicated to agriculture and the local area.

Schloss Sommerswalde

Not all palaces were built as noble homes, case in point: Schloss Sommerswalde. Its construction fulfilled the lifelong dream of the Berlin bourgeois Richard Sommer. He financed the building with the sale of family-owned land around the Brandenburg Gate and commissioned architects Hans Abesser und Jürgen Kröger. The plans for Schloss Sommerswalde were actually heavily inspired by Paul Wallots first but never realised plans for the construction of the German parliamentary building, the Reichstag, though in much smaller scale.

Schloss Schwante

Schloss Schwante was built from 1741 to 1743 by the landowner Erasmus Wilhelm von Redern and his wife Catherina Elisabeth von Bredow by an unknown architect, probably under the advice of Georg Wenzeslaus von Knobelsdorff, the man behind most of Prussia's palaces. For a few years during the early 20th century, Richard Sommer also owned this estate as one palace apparently wasn't quite enough for him. These days, you will find permanent art installations in its park.

Schloss Ziethen

Today a hotel, the origins of Schloss Ziethen date back to at least the 14th century when it was owned by the von Bredow family. The Medieval buildings were destroyed during the Thirty Years' War and the reconstruction used to extend and raise it with a remodelling the Baroque style. In the late 19th century, the Baroque manor house was extended by the two striking side wings in the Neoclassical style. These days, its owned again by descendants of the old Prussian von Bredow family.

Schloss Wansdorf

Owned by different noble families throughout the centuries, the so-called Neues Schloss, or New Palace, in Wansdorf is an Art Nouveau villa built around 1900 by industrialist Ferdinand Griebenow though he never lived there. His widow sold the small palace to the city of Spandau. It was later used as a rehabilitation clinic and as an educational institution for teachers. Currently is is privately owned and you can only admire it from the street.

Schloss Marquardt

Situated on the shores of Schlänitzsee near Potsdam, Schloss Marquardt today is primarily famous as a film set. With its history dating back a lot further, it was in the year 1879 when the then owner of the castle, Carl Meyer, representative of the Essen-based Krupp company in Berlin, had Schloss Marquardt rebuilt as a two-storey building. After it was sold to the steel merchant Dr. Louis Ravené, it was given its present appearance by means of an extension and the addition of another storey. The Kempinski hotel group leased the property in 1932, establishing it as a popular destination for people from nearby Berlin.

Guthaus Köpernitz

Not strictly speaking called a castle or palace but a manor house, the Gutshaus Köpernitz was another estate owned by the von Bredow family. The village by the same name was firstly mentioned during the 15th century. Many years later, a water mill, an outlying estate and a sheep farm were built there by Jobst von Bredow. The Gutshaus received its current architectural appearance some time around the turn of the 20th century.

Schloss Freienwalde

Last but certainly not least is a palace you can actually visit: Schloss Freienwalde in, you guessed it, Freienwalde. Originally built in the very late 18th century as a widow's seat for Queen Friederike Luise of Prussia according to plans by David Gilly, its most famous inhabitant was probably Walther Rathenau. The German industrialist, writer and liberal politician purchased the palace from the Prussian crown in 1909. Rathenau served as German Foreign Minister in the early 1920's until his assassination by a right-wing paramilitary group. Schloss Freienwalde today houses a museum in his memory.

Sparkly Splendour: The Galerie d'Apollon and the French Crown Jewels at the Louvre

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 11 Sep 2022 17:47:00 +0000

When you think of the Louvre, you probably think of paintings and art - but it is also home to another kind of incredible craftsmanship: The French Crown Jewels. The Palais du Louvre, of course, served as a royal residence between the 14th and 18th centuries. And it is here in the Galerie d’Apollon, a work of art in itself, where you can find a variety of tiaras and other bejeweled objects. The room owes its existence to King Louis XIV, who famously identified himself with the sun god Apollo. This gallery was one of his first building projects to represent that image. To create this masterpiece of architectural decoration, he summoned the greatest painters, gilders and sculptors of the day, who later also worked on the Hall of Mirrors at the Château de Versailles. But the focus of today's article shall be on all that glitters.

Personally, I always found royal jewellery a fascinating way to learn about history as oftentimes you can trace them through various royal families of different nations or dynasties that ruled over one country. The Emerald and Diamond Tiara of the Duchesse d'Angoulême is no different. As the name suggests, it was made for the Duchess of Angoulême, Marie-Thérèse, the only child of King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette to survive the French revolution. The tiara was a gift from her husband Louis Antoine, whom she had married in 1799. Made in 1819 to 1820, it features several stones already in the possession of the French crown as well as new acquisitions. It includes 40 emeralds, at 77 carats, all set in yellow gold, and 1,031 diamonds, at 176 carats, which are set in silver. After the abdication of her father-in-law and husband, the tiara remained with the French state as it was already part of the crown jewels where it found a new wearer in Empress Eugénie, the wife of Napoleon III. During the late 19th century, it was sold in auction but luckily returned to France and the Louvre in the early 2000's.

The necklace and earrings, made of emeralds and diamonds, form part of a parure once owned by Empress Marie Louise of France. They were part of the wedding gifts to the Austrian archduchess by her husband Emperor Napoleon I. Originally, the parure consisted of a tiara, a necklace, a pair of earrings, a hair comb and a belt clasp. It featured 138 emeralds, 382 rose-cut diamonds and 2,162 brilliant-cut diamonds. These days, only three of the original pieces can be found at the Louvre. Inherited by Marie Louise's Austrian relatives, the various pieces of the parure were sold at different points in time - these ones were acquired by the museum in the early 2000's after they had already been loaned to them since the 1960's. The tiara to go along with them had been purchased by Van Cleef & Arpels a few decades early and has been dismantled substituting the emeralds with turquoises.

Another gemstone is at the heart of this goodie: The Sapphire and Diamond Parure of Queen Marie Amélie, sometimes also referred to as the Orléans Sapphire Parure. The Queen actually owned several sapphire parures, so the provenance information is a bit shaky at times. Sometimes this parure is attributed to Queen Marie Antoinette, sometimes (and more likely) to Empress Joséphine, first wife of Napoleon I. It entered the collection of Queen Marie Amélie in 1821, when it was gifted to her by her husband Louis Philippe, who had purchased it from Hortense de Beauharnais, Joséphine's daughter.

The parure consists of several pieces, the most impressive of which is probably the necklace. Like all pieces of the parure, it is made of a set of large natural Ceylon sapphires and brilliant diamonds, set in gold. Over time, several changes were made to the individual pieces and the tiara decreased in size. In difference to most other sets at the Louvre, this one actually wasn't part of the French Crown Jewels from the beginning. Instead it passed through the generations of descendants of Queen Marie Amélie for several decades and worn for important occasions until the 1980's, when it was sold to the museum by the Count of Paris.

The third tiara on display at the Louvre is Empress Eugénie's Pearl and Diamond Tiara. Commissioned by Napoleon III as part of a suite of jewellery for his soon-to-be wife Eugénie de Montijo, it features 212 pearls and 1998 diamonds. The tiara was made by Gabriel Lemonnier for the wedding in 1853 and worn by the Empress for her famous Winterhalter portraits. Much like the Emerald and Diamond Tiara on this list, it was originally part of the French state treasury but sold in the late 19th century. The new owners: The Princes of Thurn und Taxis, whose home is Schloss St. Emmeram, sometimes said to larger than Buckingham Palace. The German noble family held onto it for a good 100 years before they sold it to the friends of the Louvre to be put on display at the museum.

Discovering Weissenfels: Nine Things to See When Visiting

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 28 Aug 2022 10:11:00 +0000

* This post is part of a paid partnership with the cities of Weissenfels, Merseburg and Zeitz. *

Weissenfels, deep in the heart of Saxony-Anhalt, is a city full of contradictions. Old vs. new, fallen into ruins vs. beautifully restored. All of this is represented most in the castle towering high above in the town south-west of Leipzig: Schloss Neu-Augustusburg. While half of it, at least from the exterior, shines in new splendour, the other half is falling into ruins. It is a fascinating contrast you will find all over this historically rich little town. Once the residence of the Duchy of Saxe-Weissenfels, it later became the number one shoe-manufacturing city of the German Democratic Republic. As so many places, the aftermath of unification left a lasting mark on Weissenfels with many especially young people moving away to find work elsewhere, and houses left empty. But you will find as many rays of hope here, so let's delve deeper into the things not to miss when visiting Weissenfels.

Whether you arrive in Weissenfels via train or car, it's best to start any tour of discovery of the city in the town's market square or Marktplatz in German. The spacious area lies a stone's throw from the local train station and is surrounded by a variety of historical buildings including the town hall, not pictured above because it's currently being renovated and your's truly can never escape the scaffolding. You will also find the tourist information here, where a variety of guided tours start. I much recommend them to learn more about Weissenfels and it's fascinating history.

From the market square you can already see Schloss Neu-Augustusburg lying high above a hill overlooking the city. Unfortunately, the former residence of the Dukes of Saxe-Weissenfels, a secundogeniture of the Albertine line of the House of Wettin, is a shadow of its former self. So you have to use your imagination to get an idea how it once looked when the royals still roamed its halls. Built during the late 17th century, Schloss Neu-Augustusburg is one of the earliest examples of Baroque architecture in Germany. Remnants of its splendrous former interior decorations are few and far in between, but you can spot some as you can see in the picture above. Weissenfels seized to be a residential town during the mid-18th century when the ducal line died out and usage of the palace has been diverse since, to say the least. In addition, the Schloss sadly has major structural problems. As a precaution, a suite of rooms that until recently showed an exhibition about the history of Neu-Augustusburg and the Baroque cultivation of home decor, that includes above's room, is currently closed.

But thankfully Schloss Neu-Augustusburg has several more wings - and a stunning surviving Baroque pearl we will get to in a moment. But first: The Shoe Museum. Remember that I wrote in the beginning that Weissenfels was once the biggest shoe-manufacturing city in East Germany? The Shoe Museum pays tribute to that time and far beyond. Here you can learn more about shoes that you ever thought you needed. Actually already opened during the days of the German Democratic Republic, the museum is a bit of a curiosity and feels like a glimpse into museum culture and ways to educate people of days gone by. There are plans to renew it but they also intend to keep parts of the old museum to teach museum educators how museum used to educate.

Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Hallelujah! Ha-lle-lu-jah! Did you think you would find such a Baroque gem at Schloss Neu-Augustusburg? You may be forgiven for not expecting that after the first few pictures of this palace. The castle church of St. Trinitatis survived to this day in all its original glory. It's a Protestant-turned Catholic-turned Protestant church that has seen a variety of very famous musicians. The musically inclined among you may have noticed that the beginning of this paragraph didn't only allude to a religious theme in general but to Handel's Messiah in particular. It was actually here that the talent of young Georg Friedrich was first discovered when he played the organ, his father being the court physician of the Dukes of Saxe-Weissenfels.

Speaking of Baroque and music... The OG of classical music that is Johann Sebastian Bach was here as well. In 1713, to be precise for some ducal birthday celebrations. As one does when one is a composer, he also brought a gift: His very first (surviving, at least) secular cantata, known as the Hunting Cantata, composed in honour of the 31st birthday of Duke Christian of Saxe-Weissenfels. This visit and cantata merited Bach a portrayal in the Stadtbrunnen fountain you can find in the Jüdenstrasse. Opposite him is another Baroque composer, Heinrich Schütz.

In fact, Schütz isn't just another Baroque composer. He is generally regarded as the most important German composer before Johann Sebastian Bach - and he once called Weissenfels his home. Schütz has connections to many towns in the area but it was here where he chose to spend to last years of his life in a house opposite where his family used to run a tavern. Today said house is a museum, the Heinrich-Schütz-Haus, giving an insight into his life and work. The museum is quite the contrast to the Shoe Museum above. It's super new, super modern - and a great way to learn about Schütz and the beginnings of Baroque music in Germany.

But Weissenfels cannot only boast a couple of very famous musicians but also a very literary connection. If you don't instantly recognise the name Friedrich von Hardenberg, that's fine. Novalis, his pen name, may be more familiar to you. At least if you have ever read anything about German literature of the Romantic age. Novalis was a German poet and thinker and one of the fathers of Romanticism in Germany; his blue flower being the symbol for the yearning the Romantics felt. It was in Weissenfels where he lived and his untimely death occurred. You can find a memorial for him, the Novalis-Gedenkstätte, in the Stadtpark.

While in the Stadtpark, make sure to stroll around a bit. It's also a great spot to take a break and enjoy the greenery. Make sure to stop by the Stadt- or Schusterjunge, a statue of a young boy opposite the Novalis-Gedenkstätte. Near the Pulverturm, the old magazine, you will find several nice views over the surrounding area including a different angle of Schloss Neu-Augustusburg as well as the old town of Weissenfels, including the St. Mary's Church (Marienkirche).

Speaking of Marienkirche... I also much recommend catching a glimpse of the interior. The late Gothic three-aisled hall church forms part of the market square and lies right next to the town hall. Consecrated in 1303, it was renewed several times after fires. The church tower was rebuilt in Baroque style after a one of them in 1718. For a time, the town church also functioned as a representative court church. The most important furnishings also date from this time.

If you still have a bit more time while in Weissenfels, I also suggest you to visit the Promenade nearby. The street as well as the one you pass when walking over there from the market square has been recently restored. It forms a great contrast to some of the debilitated houses you find in other areas of the city - but hopefully a sign of the great things and restorations to come! While at the Promenade, you can catch a good lunch or dinner at Schumanns Garten, a restaurant and hotel in one of the restored houses where I had some of the tastiest food while visiting Weissenfels, Zeitz and Merseburg.

P. S. Need a place to stay? I made the Best Western in Merseburg my base camp for the weekend that took me to Merseburg, Weissenfels and Zeitz. Conveniently located close to the main station, it is a great starting point to discover the history, culture, architecture and nature of the region - and it even offers a great view over the old town of Merseburg itself.

Between Ravens and Charms: Nine Places to Visit in Merseburg

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 08 Aug 2022 19:07:00 +0000

* This post is part of a paid partnership with the cities of Weissenfels, Merseburg and Zeitz. *

Have you heard of Merseburg? This medieval German town is situated on the banks of the river Saale approximately 30 kilometres west of Leipzig. It boasts a great historical significance. Firstly mentioned in 850, it became the seat of the Bishop of Merseburg in 968 and remained so until the Reformation. During the Early and High Middle Ages, the town once was the most important Kaiserpfalz, roughly translated as imperial residence, in the East of the Holy Roman Empire for the ever-travelling ruler. While its importance somewhat faded when the modern age rolled around, it once again became the home of a ruler between 1657 to 1738 when Merseburg was the residence of the Dukes of Saxe-Merseburg, a secundogeniture of the Albertine line of the House of Wettin. Sounds interesting? Here are nine recommendations what to do and see when visiting Merseburg.

Start at Schloss Merseburg, of course. (I'm a Castleholic after all - and one that sometimes forgets how much she likes castles built during the Renaissance era; with all their towers, turrets and exterior decorations, they look exactly how I imagined castles to look like when I was a child. So needless to say, I was a fan! But back to the history...) The current Renaissance-style castle was built between 1470 and 1500 on the site of a former Ottonic fortification. In its history this and the former castles located in the same spot, served as Kaiserpfalz for the Emperor, Bishop's Seat and ducal residence. After the Congress of Vienna, it became the seat of the local administration but has also been home to a museum for more than 100 years now. The Kulturhistorisches Museum is a great starting point for any visit to Merseburg because it gives a great overview over the town's history since the earliest days. When I visited I even got to try out writing with a quill. Not going to lie, I was slightly sceptical at first but it turned out to be heaps of fun.

Right next to the Schloss, you will find Merseburg Cathedral. It actually forms the fourth wing of the castle though it has a separate entrance. 1000 years ago, it was the imperial couple Heinrich II and Kunigunde themselves who laid the foundation stone for the Merseburger Dom. The Romanesque and Gothic cathedral is a stark reminder of the town's importance during the Middle Ages, so there is plenty to discover. A special highlight is one of the largest Romantic organs in Germany built by Friedrich Ladegast, one of the most famous German organ builders. It was no other than Franz Liszt who wrote the first pieces played on this organ.

The Willi-Sitte-Galerie opposite the Cathedral located in the Curia nova offers a stark contrast to the medieval church. Named after Willi Sitte, a German painter who was for a long time the president of the East German association of visual artists, it exhibits many of the artist's works and is a welcome change to the otherwise history-heavy main attractions of Merseburg. Sitte, a figurative painter, is best known for his large-scale, politically charged canvases depicting themes of class struggle, fascism, war and sex. The Willi-Sitte-Galerie also offers changing special exhibitions...

...as well as something a little different: Merseburg is the home of physician Carl von Basedow. If you know German, you will probably be familiar with that name. Graves' disease is actually known as Basedow'sche Krankheit or Morbus Basedow in German, as it was Basedow who first described the autoimmune disease that affects the thyroid in Germany. This year, Merseburg celebrates the 200th anniversary of Basedow moving to the city with, among others, a medicine-inspired Escape the Room at Willi-Sitte-Gallerie called "Not-OP. Die Uhr tickt." If that's not up your alley, there is also an interesting exhibition on Basedow in general.

Those who can sightsee a whole town within a day, also need a good place to take a break - and there is hardly a better place in Merseburg than the gardens of Schloss Merseburg. In addition to plenty of green spaces for relaxation, the gardens have a couple of interesting structures to discover such as the Orangery (which you can see in the picture above), a very real looking equestrian statue of King Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia as well as a great view over the river Saale flowing along the hill Schloss Merseburg and much of the old town is located on. While you are on your way from the Schloss to the park, also pay a visit to Merseburg's famous ravens.

Why there are ravens in Merseburg? Legend has that Bishop Thilo von Trotha once ordered to execute his servant who was suspected of having stolen a precious ring from his master. A long time went by and the ring was found in a raven nest on the palace’s roof while it was being under repair. The bishop felt remorse and changed the family crest, showing since then a black raven with a golden ring in its beak. To remind us to never make hasty decisions in a bad mood, Thilo captured a raven - and to this day, he can be found in a cage next to Schloss Merseburg. But that's not the only legendary or mythical thing you can find in the town: There are also the Merseburg charms. They are two medieval magic spells written in Old High German believed to be from the 9th century discovered during the 19th century. They are the only known examples of Germanic pagan belief preserved in the language. You can find both of them written on large metal panels in the city.

While you wander through the city, there are also plenty of old buildings from all eras to discover. Above you can see the Old Town Hall on the right as well as Merseburg's oldest building on the left. Built starting in the 15th century, the Old Town Hall combines features from Gothic and Renaissance style. Others sights include the St. Maximi Church, the Göbelbrunnen as well as the Tiefer Keller area, where there used to be deep cellars - that's actually the literal English translation of the name - that the people of Merseburg used to dig to store their goods.

Finally, don't forget to cross the Saale river to also have a look at the St. Thomas of Canterbury Church. It may not be the most impressive church but it is a very fascinating one. When you enter, you are taken slightly aback as to why you have to walk down a flight of stairs to actually reach it. The reason behind this curiosity? As the Saale river flows right next to it and floods became a regular part of life, the crafty people of Merseburg decided to fill up the church's interior to a higher level as they raised the surrounding lands. Only during the 1990's, the church was restored to its original deep level. These days, however, it is not used as a place of worship anymore but rather a space for cultural events. There is also a fascinating piece of art to be found at the church reflecting on the cruelty of mankind. On a brighter note, right next to the church, you will also find the great view of Merseburg you can see in the first picture of this post.

Last but not least, don't forget to simply stroll around... Merseburg has an abundance of beautiful buildings to discover. Some medieval, others from the days since. It's an eclectic mix of styles with big and small things to discover. To find out more details on all things visiting Merseburg, have a look here.

Schloss Moritzburg and Beyond: How to Spend a Day in Zeitz

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 31 Jul 2022 19:49:00 +0000

* This post is part of a paid partnership with the cities of Weissenfels, Merseburg and Zeitz. *

Do you know those "It's on my list"-places? Towns or places where you have been wanting to visit for a while but haven’t gotten around to?! Recently I scratched one of those places off my imaginary list: Zeitz. Once upon a couple of centuries ago - between 1656 and 1718 to be precise - this little town was the capital of a small German state and secundogeniture of the Albertine line of the House of Wettin, the Duchy of Saxe-Zeitz. As any self-respecting residential town Zeitz, of course, boasts a palace: Schloss Moritzburg (not to be confused with the probably more famous Schloss Moritzburg near Dresden). But let's not get ahead of ourselves and start my visit in chronological order.

After arriving in Zeitz, I started my tour of discovery of the town in the old market square, known as Altmarkt in German. Zeitz's history actually goes back to the Middle Ages. Firstly mentioned in 967, it soon became seat of the Bishops of Naumburg-Zeitz. Consequently, you can find all sorts of architectural styles around here. From half-timbered houses, via Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance structures to buildings in Baroque and Historicist style. The town hall of the city, which you can see in the picture above, was built between 1505 and 1509 in Late-Gothic style taking inspiration from the town hall in Wrocław with additions made during the early 20th century. Fun fact: Martin Luther's great-grandson once governed here as a mayor and descendants in the female line still reside in the city to this day. If you fancy a good vista, you can also visit the tower of the Rathaus. On days with good weather, you can see all the way to Leipzig and the Monument to the Battle of Nations.

From the Altmarkt I made my way through the old parts of the city to discover the varied architectural styles to be found around Zeitz. It is very fascinating to discover them all interspersed with each other. While many places have streets of houses mainly in the same style, I felt like turning the corner in Zeitz would often bring about totally different eras of origin right next to each other. One thing I didn't get to see myself - only so much things you can do in a day - but is definitely on my list for a future visit is the Zeitz below Zeitz. That's right, there is an extensive network of cellars below the city. Built during the Middle Ages, they were used to keep the beer cool. (Germans, I know...) These days you can tour the network known as Underground Zeitz which spans about 700 metres with a guide.

During a tour of Zeitz, you also pass by a church or two, like the St. Michael's Church in the picture above or the church of the Franciscan Monastery. Built in the 13th century, it was here that Martin Luther once delivered a sermon in 1542. The church as been repurposed since and is now used as a cultural events site. Other things to discover during a walk through Zeitz include remnants of the old city walls including the Steintorturm, an old gate to the city, as well as a couple of curious artworks scattered around town all featuring a couple of bottles of beer. But then, it was time for any Castleholic's highlight of the day: Aforementioned Schloss Moritzburg.

The former home of the Dukes of Saxe-Zeitz lies slightly outside of the old city further down the hill Zeitz is situated on. Surrounded by an English-landscape park, Schloss Moritzburg was built between 1657 and 1678 on the grounds of a former castle owned by the Bishops of Naumburg-Zeitz. Moritz Richter was the architect behind the plans for one of the earliest examples of Baroque architecture in Germany. His works were carried on by his son Johann Moritz after the elder's death. A good 40 years after its completion, Schloss Moritzburg ceased to be a royal seat of power. When the Dukes of Saxe-Zeitz died out in male line, the Duchy fell back to the main line of the House of Wettin a. k. a. the Electors of Saxony. Having their residence in Dresden, they naturally did not take a major interest in Zeitz.

During the following decades and centuries, Schloss Moritzburg first became an administrative seat before it was turned into correctional institution and later a prison, among others. With such a varied use, it is no surprise that not many of the original rooms have survived but there are a few gems to be found like the study of Duchess Maria Amalia you can see in the picture above. The reason it still exists? The room actually formed part of the private apartments of the director of the correctional institution and later the prison. Apparently they did like themselves a bit of Baroque splendour (and who can blame them)... The study is part of a series of rooms home to the exhibition "Time of the Dukes - Baroque Residence Culture in Zeitz", which provides information about the history of the castle as well as the Duchy. One curious thing to discover during the exhibition is a number of after-death paintings of the royals who used to live at Zeitz's ducal residence. I have yet to come across something similar in another palace - and I have visited many.

Speaking of curious things... Schloss Moritzburg is also home to a Pram Museum! Admittedly, before my visit I wasn't aware either that Zeitz actually is the place of origin for the German pram manufacturing industry. It was wheelwright Ernst-Albert Naether who in 1846 opened the first business to produce wheeled devices to carry infants. Legends says that he came up with the idea when he saw poor women workers carrying around their children, truth is that they probably couldn't afford his invention - but the idea took off anyway, especially during the days of the advancing middles classes who liked to promenade and show themselves in public. The Deutsches Kinderwagenmuseum - or German Pram Museum - gives an insight into all of that and how prams developed during the decades that followed to his day. Zeitz actually continued its pram tradition for many years until German reunification meant the end of the local pram - and many other - industries.

But back from prams to Baroque architecture (in an otherwise Gothic church): The Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul also forms part of the complex that is Schloss Moritzburg. It is a bit of a curious church not only in its mixture of styles but also because it does not have any towers (anymore, that is). After he inherited Zeitz in in 1656, Duke Moritz - who, by the way, gave his name to the Schloss - had the former cathedral converted in the castle chapel. Because he didn't like anyone to have a higher tower than him, he had them removed. Instead, he added a royal box, you can see in the picture above, as well as several other Baroque structures such as the altar and the pulpit. Having the very ambitious Heinrich Schütz, often considered the most important German composer pre-Bach, as his court conductor, he also added one choir (another one was planned but never realised) and a new organ as well as a fake organ to mirror it.

After plenty of new discoveries and new knowledge, it was finally time to end my day in the gardens of Schloss Moritzburg. The grounds, which already housed a pleasure garden in the times of the Dukes, extend over about twelve hectares. Today it is divided into different areas. There is the English-landscape park but also different themed gardens, such as a Japanese Garden, created about two decades ago when the first Landesgartenschau horticultural exhibition in the German state of Saxony-Anhalt took place here. Over the year, different cultural events take place in the gardens but even when there is nothing on, they are very worth a stroll. And with that (plus a good glass of local Saale-Unstrut wine), my day in Zeitz ended and it was time to head home.

Sounds worth it visit?
Learn more about Zeitz and its tourist sites here and

about Schloss Moritzburg and its different exhibitions here.

Schloss Paretz and Schloss Caputh: The Unknown Prussian Palaces

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 04 Jul 2022 16:50:00 +0000

We have covered plenty of Prussian palaces here on Confessions of a Castleholic, we even have a post on how many Prussian palaces you can see in a day. (It's five, in case you wondered.) But today, we are going to have a look at two pretty unknown palaces of the Hohenzollern family that once ruled as German Emperors: Schloss Paretz and Schloss Caputh. Never heard of them? Don't worry, neither had I before I moved to Berlin and got myself an annual ticket to the Prussian palaces surrounding the German capital. The fact that we know fairly little about them probably has as much to do with their location as well as their less ornate decoration.

Schloss Caputh

"Less ornate?", you may ask. "But that's a Baroque palace!" And right you are. But as it is an early example of Baroque architecture in this region, Schloss Caputh may not compare to the more lavishly decorated Rococo palaces of nearby Park Sanssouci in many peoples eyes. The palace located on a lake outside of Potsdam does have a unique selling point though: It is the oldest pleasure palace in the area to have survived from the time of Friedrich Wilhelm of Brandenburg, known as the Great Elector. It was actually his great-grandmother, Katharina of Brandenburg, who first purchased the estate in the late 16th century and built a manor house there. It was sold to a nobleman following massive damage sustained during the Thirty Years' War.

A couple of years later, in 1671, Elector Friedrich Wilhelm exchanged an estate in the Nemunas Delta in then East Prussia for the estate near Potsdam and gifted it, as one does, to his second wife née Dorothea Sophie of Schleswig-Holstein-Sonderburg-Glücksburg. Electress Dorothea had the small manor house greatly expanded into a three-winged palace and beautified the interior in early Baroque style. After the death of the Great Elector in 1688, Schloss Caputh became Dorothea's favoured widow's seat. After her own death a year later, her step-son, the future King Friedrich I in Prussia, purchased the palace from his half-siblings and in turn gifted it to his own wife.

Because one Baroque palace was apparently enough for this Queen, Sophie Charlotte returned the gift to her husband once construction plans for Schloss Charlottenburg took shape. Afterwards, Schloss Caputh became a favourite place of residence for King Friedrich I himself, who used it as a hunting lodge and maison de plaisance. His son and successor, the ever-frugal Friedrich Wilhelm I, also used it to go hunting, before his son, Friedrich II (a. k. a. "the Great), first rented it out before it was sold. During the 19th and 20th it passed through the hands of various noble families before it was used as a school during the times of the German Democratic Republic. For a good 25 years now, it has been open to the public offering glimpses into early-Baroque court life.

Schloss Paretz

Located yet further outside of Potsdam in the Havelland region of Brandenburg lies Schloss Paretz and offers an insight into a very different era of royal life. The palace is the Neo-Classical summer residence of the future King Friedrich Wilhelm III and Queen Luise. The couple famously tried to live a very non-traditional almost bourgeois life far away from the stuffy court rules of previous generations. Luise, who died young, later became a myth and it was partly at Paretz where this myth was born. (And as nearly any German myth, the one of Luise has also been appropriated by the Nazis - but that's another story for another day.)

Schloss Paretz - and the surrounding village - was built by David Gilly for the then Crown Prince and Crown Princess of Prussia between 1797 and 1804. At the time, it was supposed to be a model estate for the whole region. The painted and printed wallpapers in the royal living quarters were considered spectacular at the time and soon became widely famous. The reason much of it remains unchanged is that the children of Friedrich Wilhelm III and Luise decided to keep it in its original state in memory of their parents. A wish respected by future generations of Hohenzollern. These days it still feels like a cozy - albeit very large - family home and probably the Prussian palace you would most likely want to move into if given the choice.

The palace remained in the hands of the Hohenzollern dynasty until 1945, the last royal owner being Prince Waldemar of Prussia. As with practically all palaces in what became East Germany, Schloss Paretz had a very varied history of use during the following decades until 1990. First it became home to the Red Army, then refugees and finally it was used as a school before it became an administration building. During the late 1990's the state purchased Schloss Paretz and reopened it as a museum during the early 2000's. Most of the art-historically important paper wallpapers in the style of Zuber et Cie had luckily been preserved. Employees of the Potsdam palaces salvaged them in 1947 and stored them in the warehouses of the Neues Palais in Potsdam. However, their condition had greatly deteriorated in the following decades and thus they were not suitable to reassemble and exhibit them. In a large-scale restoration project, it took three years to restore and reproduce them to be shown once again.

Beyond Royal Splendour: Three Noble Palaces to Discover in Madrid

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 28 Jun 2022 13:47:00 +0000

You have been to Madrid a couple of times and have seen all the royal palaces or simply like to venture off the beaten track and avoid the crowds? In today's post we have got you covered in both cases as we have a look at not one but three nobles palaces in the Spanish capital to discover.

Palacio di Liria

The Palacio di Liria is the only one of today's palaces still owned by a noble family, and one of Spain's most important noble families at that: the Dukes of Alba. Legends has it that they are so wealthy they can walk from the north of Spain to the south without taking a step off their own property. Whether that’s true or not, their Madrid residence - built between 1767 and 1785 on the orders of the third Duke of Berwick and Liria, Jacobo Fitz-James Stuart y Colón, whose descendants also became Dukes of Alba - sure is a sight to behold. The Palacio di Liria was designed by Ventura Rodríguez in Neo-Classical style. Sadly, all but the facades were destroyed by fire during the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Luckily for all castleholics out there, the palace was later rebuilt according to original plans with modifications by Sir Edwin Lutyens. These days, it houses an immensely impressive privately owned art collection featuring great masters such as Goya, Velázquez, Murillo, Zurbarán, El Greco, Ribera, Rubens, Titian, Palma Vecchio, Brueghel the Elder, Madrazo and Winterhalter. Unfortunately you are not allowed to take pictures of the interior, so I much recommend going there and discover it all for yourself.

Palacio del Marqués de Cerralbo

The Palacio del Marqués de Cerralbo, today better known as the Museo Cerralbo, was already conceived as a family home as well as a museum to exhibit art and other collectables. It houses the art and historical object collections of Enrique de Aguilera y Gamboa, Marquis of Cerralbo, who died in 1922 and bequeathed all of them to the Spanish state. Architecturally speaking, the Palacio del Marqués de Cerralbo combines Neo-Baroque, Rococo and Neo-Classical elements. It both shows the lives of an aristocratic family during the late 19th century as well as the 18th Marquis of Cerralbo penchant for collecting all things beautiful from Old Masters to decorative arts and numismatics. It's one of those places that can feel a little overwhelming because there is so much to see - after all the Marquis' collection compromised of about 50,000 objects - in a comparatively small space, but it is an utterly fascinating glimpse into another era.

Palacio del Marqués de Matallana

Built in the second half of the 18th century for Rodrigo de Torres y Morales, 1st Marquis of Matallana, by Manuel Martín Rodríguez, the cousin and student of the aforementioned Ventry, the Palacio del Marqués de Matallana today houses the Museo del Romanticismo. During the 1920's it was conceived as the museum it is today by Benigno de la Vega-Inclán y Flaquer, 11th Marquis de la Vega-Inclán, and has remained so until today. It is the smallest and - truth be told - the least impressive of today's palaces and/or museums, but still features a number of interesting artworks.

Not enough palaces for you? Also check out the royal sights Madrid has to offer such as the Palacio Real, the Palacio Real de Aranjuez and the Real Sitio San Lorenzo de El Escorial.

Where Queens Come From: Discovering Schloss Mirow

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 06 Jun 2022 17:58:00 +0000

Truth be told, I haven't done a lot of castle hunting in Germany's most north-eastern state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. I have been to the Schloss in Schwerin and that's about it. As its name suggests, Mecklenburg-Vorpommern consists of two entities who do not share a lot of common history. Mecklenburg consists of the two former (Grand) Dukedoms of Mecklenburg-Strelitz and Mecklenburg-Schwerin as well as the part of the former Prussian province of Pommern that stayed German after the Second World War. Mecklenburg was for most of its history somewhat of a backwater without much political influence. Friedrich II of Prussia actually went so far as to call the Mecklenburg royals living at Schloss Mirow plain, uneducated and hilarious after visiting during the 1730's and coined the derogatory term 'Mirokesen'. But - depending on how well you know marriage politics of the European monarchies prior to World War I - what are small and insignificant but reigning houses good for? Their daughters of course. And so you may have come across a variety of Mecklenburg-Strelitz princesses who married into Europe's great dynasties including Queen Luise of Prussia and the British Queen Charlotte, wife of King George III.

But now onto today's Schloss, a secondary residence and not one but two palaces of the Dukes of Mecklenburg-Strelitz in Mirow... The oldest parts of the current Schloss Mirow, located on a lake in a lake-rich region, date back to the year 1708. However, parts of the original building were heavily damaged during a fire a good thirty years later, so that much of the current shape of the Schloss owes is existence to Christoph Julius Löwe, who was commissioned by Duke Adolf Friedrich III, Charlotte's uncle, to rebuilt the palace between 1749 and 1752. Löwe took inspiration from French country estates of the time as Schloss Mirow was only a secondary residence of the Dukes of Mecklenburg-Strelitz. One of the few original rooms to survive to this day is the Baroque-style Great Hall created by Giovanni Battista Clerici in 1711. The Seven Years War halted the works on the interior Schloss Mirow and continued at the behest of Duchess Elisabeth Albertine a few years later.

Even though it looks fairly modest for palatial standards from the outside, the interior could rival the most famous palaces of the day. Reports indicate that the interior furnishings were designed by the same artists that worked as Schloss Sanssouci in Potsdam. Unfortunately, little of it survives to this day. The (Grand) Dukes of Mecklenburg-Strelitz ceased using Schloss Mirow on a regular basis sometime during the 18th century. The continued to use the burial place in the church nearby but burials became about the only time they visited Mirow. So much of Schloss Mirow, which today serves as a museum, are actually 21st century reconstructions of a time gone by. Still, it is the last palace to give a glimpse into how the family of some of Europe's most famous Queens lived. The main residence of the family, the Residenzschloss in Neustrelitz, as well as the Neubrandenburger Palais were completely destroyed during the Second World War and only little of the summer residence Schloss Hohenzieritz remains. The Lower Palace in Mirow was destroyed during a fire and the other two other former palaces of the family now serve other purposes.

Following the Footsteps of the Medici: Three Palaces in Florence Not to Miss

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 15 May 2022 11:54:00 +0000

Florence is perhaps one of the handful of places every person should visit during their lifetime. Dubbed the "Cradle of the Renaissance", it is often considered to be the place where the transformation from the Middle Ages to modern Western civilization started. Between all the museums, the ginormous amounts of art and the plentiful of churches to see, palaces may not be among the top spots on your list of places to see in the city. However... When you think of Florence, you automatically also think of the Medici and unfathomable wealth. They were the bankers, rulers and art patrons behind much of what makes Florence so unique until this day. Because it was them who commissioned artists such as da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Donatello to work for them to forever inscribe their family's name into the history books.

Palazzo Medici-Riccardi

The Palazzo Medici-Riccardi is actually the place where it all started. It was the home of the Medici family between the second half of the 15th century and the first half of the 16th century. It was Cosimo the Elder who commissioned Michellozzo to build the palace of 1444. Most of the interior is an almost austere early-Renaissance noble residence. Cosimo the Elder actually actively decided against a more lavish design draft by Brunelleschi, the man behind the dome of domes adorning the Duomo di Firenze. The architectural highlights of the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi include the Chapel of the Magi, one of the first private chapels to ever be constructed adorned with frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli depicting the Adoration of the Magi featuring members of the Medici family, as well as the Galleria Riccardiana seen in the picture above. Named for the subsequent owners of the Palazzo, the ceiling fresco was created by Luca Giordano in the second half the 17th century and shows the Apotheosis of the Medici.

Palazzo Vecchio

From the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, the Medici family moved to the Palazzo Vecchio. Originally the seat of the Signoria of Florence, the ruling body of the Republic of Florence, it became the residence of the future Grand Duke Cosimo I of Tuscany - not to be confused with the aforementioned Cosimo - in 1540. With the move he wanted to signal the Medicis grasp on power in Florence. In addition to the massive Hall of the Five Hundred, you can also discover the private apartments of the Medici on the palace's second floor. Many of the rooms are great examples of early Renaissance architecture with elaborate wooden ceilings and wall frescoes such as the Apartments of the Elements seen in the picture above. While most of the Palazzo Vecchio is a museum these days, it actually also houses the city council and the office of the mayor of the city.

Palazzo Pitti

Interestingly though, Cosimo I didn't use the Palazzo Vecchio - or Old Palace - as his main residence exclusively for long. In 1549, he purchased the Palazzo Pitti across the Arno river and subsequently made it his new home. In an interesting turn of events, the palace was actually built to rival the Medicis. When Cosimo the Elder built the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, his fellow banker and rival Luca Pitti tried to surpass him - probably a feat destined to fail from the beginning. The project bankrupted Pitti and a good century later, the palace was scooped up by the Medici. Cosimo I's and his wife Eleanora di Toledo had the palace greatly expanded in size. Over the following centuries, it became home to the Medicis massive art collection - well, all the stuff not held in the Uffizi Galleries - and furniture. The Palazzo Pitti remained the Medici's main residence until the last male heir died in 1737. The Grand Duchy of Tuscany thus passed to Franz Stephan of Lorraine, husband of Empress Maria Theresia who had to give up Lorraine to marry her and was given less influential Tuscany instead. When the Grand Duchy passed from the House of Lorraine to the House of Savoy in 1860, the Palazzo Pitti was included once again. Since 1919, the Palazzo Pitti has been a museum - and the largest museum complex in Florence at that, which says something when you got the Uffizi to rival with. If you only visit one palace in Florence, make it this one to see its impressive art collection. And make sure to plan enough time to see all the 140 or some rooms as well as the surrounding gardens.

Schloss Tirol and More: Castle Hiking in South Tyrol

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 08 May 2022 09:17:00 +0000

Usually here at Confessions of a Castleholic, we are all about castle hunting. But in today's post, let's do some castle hiking! And where better to do it than in the most beautiful of Tyrols, South Tyrol? (No offense to Tyrol north of the Brenner Pass but you can hardly top scenic alpine mountains paired with palm trees.) Famous for its mild and sunny climate, South Tyrol - and especially Merano - has been a favourite destination for the bright, beautiful and wealthy for a long time. No other than Empress Elisabeth of Austria, better known as Sisi, was one of the first to holiday south of the Alps in what today is a German-speaking autonomous province in Northern Italy.

Thankfully, these days mere mortals are also able to travel to and holiday in beautiful South Tyrol. An abundance of hiking trails awaits you, but for any Castleholic combining a day in nature with discovering new historic sights seems the wait to go - and so I did. Passing the Passer via the Ponte Romano and sneaking a view into the stunning Gilfklamm, a gorge the river passes through, I walked along the Tappeinerweg, a panorama hiking trail above Merano all the way to the turn-off heading up to Dorf Tirol (literally Tyrol Village). It's a short but steep walk up from the Tappeinerweg to the village but you will soon be rewarded with your first glimpse of not one but to castles. High up on the right you can see Schloss Tirol, we will take a closer look at in a moment. But first let your eyes wander a little to the left further down the hill. The second castle you can spot there is the Brunnenburg. Built around the year 1250, the medieval castle is a museum and home to the Ezra Pound Center for Literature today as it is owned by his descendants.

Probably the most impressive of all the castles of today's post is indeed Schloss Tirol. Lucky for any hiker, that you get to see the ancestral seat of the Counts of Tyrol from several different angles, as you pass three sides during the hike. If you like, you can actually make a stop and visit the castle to learn more about regional history. The first castle on this location with built before the year 1100. The original structure was expanded numerous times during the Middle Ages. It proved its value as a fortification during the mid-14th century when Margarete of Tyrol successfully defended Schloss Tirol against the troops of the future Holy Roman Emperor Karl IV. Later, the castle lost is strategic importance and fell into ruins. First preservational efforts were made during the late 19th century, when the Schloss was renovated in Neo-Gothic style by Friedrich von Schmidt. For over a hundred years now, it's been owned by the Italian state.

Next up on the way is not a castle but a church. St. Peter's Church is may be small but a sight worth seeing along the way. Dating back to the Carolingian period, the church offers several small frescoes and an impressive organ to be seen. It is considered to be one of oldest church of the region and from the churchyard and the street in front of it, you get perhaps the most epic views of Schloss Tirol with the Alps behind it as seen in the picture above. After Schloss Tirol and the church it was time for some lunch and when in the Alps, do as the Austrians do even though you are technically in Italy*: Eat Kaiserschmarrn. I will spare you a picture because this is not a food blog but I can tell you, it was delicious. (* Light-hearted comment because this is not the place to get into the specifics of South Tyrolean history even though I can only recommend reading up on it.)

Who goes up has to go down again - and so afterwards starts the descend to Merano. Lucky for us, there is another castle to admire along the way. Schloss Thurnstein today is a hotel and restaurant but its history naturally goes back a long way. Firstly mentioned in 1276, the castle was inhabited by the chamberlain of the Counts of Tyrol at the time and known as Thurm Platzleid; it became known under its current name during the 15th century. Over the centuries, several additions were made to the structure. Since the 17th century, it has been owned by the same family who opened the current restaurant there following World War I. From Schloss Thurnstein the hike follows several serpentines downhill for what feels like an eternity - am I the only one who only ever notices how far up they have walked when they go down again? - until you can enter the the Tappeinerweg from the northern side once more to get back to the point where you started your hike. If I would be a better organised hiker, I would probably be able to tell you how far the distance is, how much elevation gain there is or how long it took me - but apparently I am very bad at this so I can only tell you: If you are ever in South Tyrol, I can only recommend checking out this hike for its natural and historical beauty.

Kloster Neuzelle: Brandenburg’s Baroque Beauty

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 04 May 2022 19:51:00 +0000

A Baroque church in Brandenburg? Yes, that exists! Admittedly, the northern half of Germany isn't naturally blessed with a lot of beautiful Baroque churches. While there are plentiful in the southern Catholic half of the country, northern Germany is the heart of famously frugal and restraint Lutheran protestantism. So Kloster Neuzelle is quite the exception, a Baroque treasure on the German-Polish border hidden among a plethora of (Neo-)Gothic churches.

Neuzelle Abbey was founded as "Nova Cella" in 1268 by Heinrich the Illustrious, Margrave of Meissen and Lusatia. The aim was to Christianise the recently conquered surrounding Sorbian lands. The first Abbey was built between 1300 and 1330 in typical local Gothic brick style. During the 15th century, it was repeatedly destroyed by the Hussites. As the monks refused to convert to the teachings of Jan Hus, they were banished or killed. Despite, Neuzelle Abbey survived the reformation as the only Catholic monastery in all of Lower Lusatia which became predominately Protestant. Following the Peace of Prague, Kloster Neuzelle fell back to the now Lutheran Saxon House of Wettin who had to guarantee the Habsburgs that the Abbey would remain Catholic. And so it did.

Heavily damaged during the course of the Thirty Years' War, Neuzelle Abbey was rebuilt during the early 1650's still in Gothic style. Between 1655 and 1658, the abbot at the time had Italian artists create stuccos and frescoes. The full-blown Baroque make-over of the church was commissioned by his successor. Taking inspiration from southern German Baroque churches, the current appearance of the Abbey's main church was created during the second half of the 17th century. Kloster Neuzelle's days as a Cistercian monastery, however, were counted (at least for now). As a consequence of the Congress of Vienna, Lower Lusatia fell to the Kingdom of Prussia and Friedrich Wilhelm III had it secularised in 1817.

While the surrounding buildings were used for administrative and educational purposes - and the other church of the abbey complex was reconsecrated as a Protestant church - the former Abbey's main church remained a Catholic parish church and became a pilgrimage church following World War II. Remember how I said that the Abbey's days as a monastery weren't quite over yet? While the abbey complex actually is now owned by the state of Brandenburg, Cistercian monks from Heiligenkreuz Abbey in Austria actually returned to Neuzelle in 2016. For now, they are using the old Kloster Neuzelle though there are plans to build a new one nearby. One thing seems sure: The new abbey's church won't be quite as elaborate as this one.

Castle Hunting in Turin: Five Palaces to Visit in the First Capital of a United Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 25 Apr 2022 18:34:00 +0000

Palazzo Reale di Torino

The obvious place to start any castle hunting adventure in Turin is of course the Palazzo Reale (or Royal Palace if your Italian is even more limited than mine). Located in the north of the country, Turin isn't only the capital city of the Piedmont but also once served as the first capital of a united Italy between 1861 and 1865 thanks to the Dukes of Savoy, who come from the region and united the country. Many of the palaces mentioned in today's post are actually UNESCO World Heritage Sites as part of the "Residences of the Royal House of Savoy". The Palazzo Reale, located in the heart of Turin, is by far the biggest of them all. Originally built in the 16th century, it was later modernised in he 17th and 18th centuries according to designs by architects such as Daniel Seiter, Filippo Juvarra and Claudio Francesco Beaumont. In addition to the royal apartments and state rooms, the Palazzo Reale also includes the royal armory, art galleries and churches. So plan at least half a day to discover the palace in all its glory.

Palazzo Madama

Located right across from the Palazzo Reale is the Palazzo Madama. Today a museum for art history, it was once best known as the home of two of Savoy's female regents, Christine of France and later Marie Jeanne Baptiste of Savoy-Nemours. The mother of the future Vittorio Amedeo II of Sardinia who saw the elevation of the House of Savoy to kings, the latter styled herself as Madama Reale, hence the name of this palace. It was also Marie Jeanne Baptiste who gave the Palazzo Madama much of its current surviving Baroque design. Artists commissioned included Filippo Juvarra and Domenico Guidobono. In subsequent centuries, there were various uses for the palace including as an administrative seat as well as home to the first Senate of the Kingdom of Italy. For almost one hundred years now, the Palazzo Madama has been used as a museum. The Museo Civico d'Arte Antica showcases art from the Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque periods. From the top, you also have a stunning view over the city and the royal palace next door.

Palazzo Carignano

A little further down the road, you can also find the Palazzo Carignano. A private residence of the Princes of Carignano, a cadet branch of the House of Savoy. It is the least splendrous of all the palaces on this list, which may also be due to its history. Built by architect Guarino Guarini during the 17th century, the Palazzo Carignano was later used as the House of Deputies of the Subalpine Parliament during the mid-19th century. These days it houses the Museum of the Risorgimento and has been since the 1930's. The Risorgimento is, of course, the political and social movement that resulted in the consolidation of different states of the Italian Peninsula into a single state, the Kingdom of Italy. Surely it is an interesting topic but maybe read up in Italian history a little prior to visiting? Your truly wasn't very well versed in the topic and I must say, I occasionally got a little lost there.

Villa della Regina

If simply admiring beautiful architecture and not getting lost in the fine details of Italian political and social history is more up your alley, the Villa della Regina is the place to go. Located on the other side of the Po river up a hill, it offers stunning views over the city. In addition, there is a beautiful park and plentiful Baroque, Chinese-inspired and Grotesque architecture. Much of the current decorations of the Villa della Regina stem from the times of Anne Marie d'Orléans, wife of Vittorio Amedeo II. Thanks to her the palace, originally built in the early 17th century, became known as the "Villa of the Queen". The interior decorations include works by Giovanni Battista Crosato, Daniel Seiter, Corrado Giaquinto and Filippo Juvarra.

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi

If you are feeling a little adventurous, have a spare day and don't mind getting out of the city a little, the Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi should definitely be on your list of palaces to visit in Turin. Possibly controversial statement but this might just be the singularly most beautiful palace I have ever visited - and I have visited many. The former hunting lodge of the Dukes of Savoy is a gorgeously decorated Baroque palace with more details than you can imagine to admire. The aforementioned Vittorio Amedeo II commissioned the also aforementioned Filippo Juvarra to build the Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi. Juvarra brought in all of the best artists, many of them from Venice, to build this masterpiece. Works started in 1729 and within two years construction was far enough advanced for the first formal hunt to take place. When you think of hunting lodges, you usually think of quaint, small palaces nestled away somewhere in the woods. But this is anything but: The Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi boasts a total of 137 rooms and 17 galleries. So it's not really a surprise that the Savoys liked to use it for all sorts of festivities including some very prominent dynastic weddings. Today the palace is home to the Museo di Arte e Ammobiliamento dedicated to arts and furnishings. While some are original to the palace, others were brought in from other former Savoy residences such as Moncalieri and Venaria Reale. Almost needless to say but I will do so anyway: It was heaven to visit - and I can only recommend you to do the same if you in the area.

Three at One Stroke: Dornburger Schlösser

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 21 Apr 2022 11:57:00 +0000

Why go to one castle if you can have three? The castles and palaces of Dornburg, all located within a few hundred metres, tower high above the Saale River in the German state of Thuringia offer exactly that possibility. All three of them were built during different periods of time and aren't actually the first castles to be located on this site. But instead of starting chronologically, let's first have a look at the newest and prettiest - yes, I'm shallow like that - of them all: the Rococo-Schloss. As the name suggests, the original Rococo-Schloss was built during the 18th century. In 1732, Duke Ernst August of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach commissioned architects to build him a palace in Dornburg. The occasion? A planned military parade. (I guess you can only end up eccentric when you take August the Strong as your inspiration.) However, something must have gone wrong at the time. Soon after it was finished, the palace was demolished due to construction defects.

But we are looking at a Rococo-style palace in the pictures, aren't we? Yes, of course. Just a few years after the original Rococo-Schloss was demolished, it was rebuilt by architect Gottfried Heinrich Krohne. This time around a little sturdier. The ducal family of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach, however, did not take a major interest in their new palace and hardly ever visited. Someone else though did: No other than German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe stayed at the Schloss whenever he visited Dornburg for his duties as a minister for the Duchy. Between 1816 and 1817, Grand Duke Carl August renovated the palace to be used as a summer residence. Shortly thereafter, the Rokoko-Schloss got its biggest role to date: It was here that, in the winter of 1818 to 1819, the first ever parliament of a constitutional monarchy in Germany met.

To the right - or the left depending on which way you look at them - of the Rococo-Schloss, you can find the Renaissance-Schloss. It is the second youngest of the three Dornburger Schlösser. Just like the Rococo-style palace, the Renaissance-Schloss can also boast a connection to Germany's most famous poet. It was here that that Goethe lived for a few weeks after the death of his patron Grand Duke Carl August. The history of the Renaissance-style castle, however, goes well beyond that of the Grand Duke's involvement in Dornburg.

Built in 1539 by Volrad von Watzdorf, the Schloss first fell to the Ernestine line of the Saxon rulers in 1571 due to debts. Around 1600, the castle first came into the possession of the Zetschnig family and stayed with them for four generations. In 1715, it was purchased by the Arnold family who lost it due to debts as well. It changed hands a couple of times more, until it was purchased by aforementioned Grand Duke Carl August in 1824. Carl August had the castle extensively renovated and turned into a livable home.

Last but certainly not least is the Old Castle of Dornburg. Unfortunately the only of the three castles you cannot actually see the interior of. Likely built around the year 1522 on the basis on a previously destroyed castle, it was extended between 1562 and 1573 under Duke Johann Friedrich II of Saxony. During its history, the Old Castle was used as a widow's seat for many years. During the first half of the 18th century, the castle lost its importance for the ducal family and instead became an administrative seat, factory and school. While there were some preservation works carried out by Grand Duke Carl Alexander during the late 19th century, it was never used by the ducal family again. These days, it serves as a community centre of a local university.

A Rococo Dream Come True: Schloss Wilhelmsthal

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 18 Apr 2022 11:13:00 +0000

This is basically a live edition of Confessions of a Castleholic, I don't think I have ever shared a palace on here so quickly after visiting. But I fell in love - and I wanted to share that love. If you follow me on Instagram (note: you should as not to miss all the latest castle adventures), you already know that I paid a visit to Schloss Wilhelmsthal near Kassel over the weekend. And it is a stunning Rococo dream come true! Long time followers of this blog may recall me visiting Schloss Wilhelmshöhe once upon nearly a decade ago. Schloss Wilhelmsthal - Höhe literally means "hill" while Thal is "valley" - is only a stone's throw away but somehow I never knew about it. Probably that's what keeps me castle hunting for more than decade now: There's still so much more to discover yet.

Schloss Wilhelmsthal, now a museum, was once owned by the Landgraves of Hesse-Kassel. The surrounding estate was purchased by Landgravine Amalie Elisabeth, widow of Landgrave Wilhelm V, in 1643. Henceforth, it was known as Amalienthal. Previously part of a Helmarshausen Abbey, it was a modest country residence though modest is by no means how you would describe it today. Today's Schloss Wilhelmsthal was built by Landgrave Wilhelm VII as a Maison de Plaisance and appropriately named for him. Construction started in 1743 and took a good 20 years until 1761.

Wilhelm VII commissioned all the best architects to realise this dream of a palace. The original plans were drawn up by François de Cuvilliés who was perhaps the most influential Rococo architect of his time in the German-speaking nations. His other works include various buildings in and around Munich, including the Cuvilliés Theatre of the city's Residenz, as well as the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Schloss Augustusburg and Schloss Falkenlust near Brühl. In 1756, Simon Louis du Ry took over the works; he actually went on to become a famous Neo-Classical architect. Some of the interior furnishings were designed by Johann August Nahl the Elder, whose other famous works include Schloss Sanssouci.

What I loved most about Schloss Wilhelmsthal? That it is so unapologetically Rococo. It doesn't hold back and it is in pristine shape. It's also all original as it is so far in the countryside that it was never destroyed. The interior is decorated with many 18th century French but also German pieces of furniture with some more recent addition originally from Schloss Wilhelmshöhe. One of the highlights of the Schloss is the Gallery of Beauties, one of the first rooms you enter and seen in the first interior shot of this post. The paintings were done by no other than Johann Heinrich Tischbein the Elder, one of the most renowned portrait painters of his day.

And speaking of highlights... The Hall of Muses certainly is another one. Located on the first floor, the five overdoor paintings - each in pairs - show Apollo with the nine muses. The walls and ceilings are decorated with additional allusions to music and dance. And so it is not hard to guess, that this apricot-coloured Rococo dream was once used for all sorts of festivities - and sometimes still is. The Hall of Muses is just one of the twenty or so rooms to discover at Schloss Wilhelmsthal, so a lot more than you might think when seeing the palace from the outside. Also make sure that in addition to the palace, you visit the surrounding lovely English-landscape garden. A special treat when the weather is as lovely as it was two days ago.

East of Berlin: Six Castles to See on a Day Trip from the German Capital

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 17 Apr 2022 19:39:00 +0000

Historically speaking, Berlin wasn't your prime European metropolis along the lines of Paris or London for many centuries. A frugal backwater somewhere in the north of the German-speaking nations, it only gained prominence during the mid-18th and 19th century. After the unification of Germany in 1871, Berlin became the new capital of the Prussian dominated German Empire. It was also the time of the industrialisation of Germany and so around the same time, a lot of noble homes started to spring up all around Berlin. Today, I'm taking you to six of those in the Oder-Spree administrative district east of Berlin. All of them can be easily reached on a day out from the German capital.

The star of the show of today's post undoubtedly is Schloss Neuhardenberg. The originally Baroque palace was redesigned in the Neo-Classical style for Chancellor Karl August Prince of Hardenberg by no other than Prussia's most famous architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. The Schloss had been gifted to Hardenberg by King Friedrich Wilhelm III of Prussia. Literally called New Hardenberg - the old Hardenberg can be found in Lower Saxony - is perhaps best-known in modern days as a meeting place of the conspirators of the 20 July plot to kill Hitler. Its owner at the time, Carl Hans Count of Hardenberg was subsequently imprisoned in a concentration camp and dispossessed of all his estates. The expropriation was confirmed by the Soviet authorities and the small town renamed into Marxwalde to get rid of the noble connections. Only after German reunification, Schloss Neuhardenberg was reinstated to the Hardenberg heirs who sold it to the German Sparkasse. Today it is used as a museum and hotel. Don't forget to also visit the nearby Schinkelkirche, a small church also designed by - you guessed it - Karl Friedrich Schinkel.

Today a hotel, Schloss Wulkow owes its current appearance to Carl Otto Magnus von Brünneck. A Prussian military officer, who inherited the estate in 1825. Starting in 1868, a representative Neo-Classical palace was built instead of a former smaller noble home. Apparently, the Schloss boasts an impressive Art Deco-style staircase though I wouldn't know because I visited during one of the many lockdowns there were when hotels were closed.

Why own one palace if you can own two? With Schloss Trebnitz we are heading from two Neo-Classical palaces to a Neo-Baroque one that was also owned by Magnus von Brünneck, who came into its possession in the early 19th century. The descendants of the twice-mentioned Magnus rebuilt the original estate home consisting of five axes into a much larger eleven-axes palace. The works were carried out between 1904 and 1910. The Barons of Brünneck owned Schloss Trebnitz until 1945. During the times of the German Democratic Republic, it served as a school. In 1992, it became a centre of education which it remains to this day.

The most fairytale-ish of today's castles? Without a doubt Schloss Reichenow. Commissioned by Baron August Friedrich von Eckardstein for his son Ernst Julius, this former noble home was built between 1897 and 1900 in the British Neo-Gothic Tudor style. The family - originally rich industrialists ennobled by King Friedrich Wilhelm III - had owned the estate Schloss Reichenow is situated on since 1801. Around the turn of the century, they assigned architect Gerhard Hauer to build a new home for their heir. Hauer took inspirations from the royal family's Schloss Babelsberg, among others. Today, Schloss Reichenow is also used as a hotel.

And whatever old nobility can do, industrialist upstarts can do too: And so Schloss Prötzel is the second palace owned by Barons of Eckardstein on today's list. Built for Paul Anton von Kamecke, Lord High Chamberlain to King Friedrich I, in 1712 as a representative country house, they purchased the palace in 1801 after their ennoblement. Originally a Baroque palace, Schloss Prötzel received a Neo-Classical make-over during the 1860's to better suit the tastes of the time. But because those tastes changed quickly, there was another make-over in Neo-Baroque style in 1924. During East-German times, the Schloss was used by the local municipality. After reunification, it stood empty for many years. Now it is privately owned and - as you can see - at least the facade looks much better again than it used to.

The history of the village of Jahnsfelde has long been intertwined with that of the Counts of Pfuel who came into the possession of the estate Schloss Jahnsfelde stands on in 1449 and remained the owners until 1945. The oldest surviving parts of today's castle date back to the 17th century. During the course of the 19th century, the Counts of Pfuel redesigned and expanded their home on a number of occassions. In 1831, the existing structure was rebuilt in Neo-Classical style, two brick addition in Neo-Gothic style made around the year 1871. After being used as a home for people with intellectual disabilities for many years, Schloss Jahnsfelde was sold a couple of years ago and is now privately owned.

How to combine it? As many of the aforementioned palaces and castles aren't actually open to the public, here are a couple of tips what else you can do in the area. Why not enjoy some of the beautiful nature such as the so-called Märkische Schweiz or one of the many lakes? In Buckow, you will also find a bit of culture as it houses the summer home of one of Germany's most famous 20th century writers Bertolt Brecht. You also shouldn't miss Ihlow, one of the most picturesque Brandenburg villages I have ever encountered.

Colloredo-Mansfeldský Palác: Prague’s Hidden Secret of a Noble Palace

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 10 Apr 2022 09:39:00 +0000

Imagine there is a beautiful palace located along one of Europe's busiest tourist streets and just across from one of its most famous bridges but when you visit you are virtually all on your own. What sounds like a castle hunter's wildest dreams, actually comes true when you visit the Colloredo-Mansfeld Palace - or Colloredo-Mansfeldský Palác in Czech - in Prague. Situated right next to the Charles' Bridge along Karlova Street, it is overlooked by most tourists and if you are as lucky as me, you will end up there all on your own.

The Colloredo-Mansfeld Palace in Prague was built during the 18th century for Prince Heinrich Paul of Mansfeld-Fondi. Considered one of the prime examples of Prague palace architecture, it combines elements from the High Baroque period with Rococo style. The most beautiful and perhaps the best preserved room of the palace is its Ball Room, which you can see in the picture above. Completed between 1736 and 1737, the ceiling fresco with the assembled Olympian gods was created by Pietro Scotti and Giovanni Battista Zeist. Sadly history hasn’t been too kind to much of the other rooms of the palace with many of them empty and their original decoration either in distress or completely lost. Today home to the Prague City Gallery, wandering through the noble apartments makes you imagine the days gone by when this palace was the buzzing home to an array of Czech and Austrian noble families.

From Prussia with Love: Visiting Five Potsdam Palaces in One Day

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 08 Apr 2022 15:24:00 +0000

So just how many castles and palaces can you visit in a day? Of course that depends on lots of things, especially whether the places you visit are open or closed to the public. Probably my record for castles actually open to visitors is five. Where I achieved this feat? In Potsdam, a preferred residence of the Prussian kings and the German Kaiser until 1918 just outside of Berlin. And while I managed to squeeze in five in a day, you could actually visit about three times as many palaces if you like in Potsdam.

Pro tip of the day: Get yourself a sanssouci+ ticket that allows entrance to all of the plentiful palaces of Potsdam in a day. With it, you book a fixed admission time slot for viewing Schloss Sanssouci. To be able to better plan the day, I chose mine for shortly after 10am. The private summer residence of King Friedrich the Great of Prussia is always the most crowded of places in Potsdam. While it certainly is one of the most famous palaces in all of Germany, it is actually fairly small compromising of only ten principal rooms. Learn all about Schloss Sanssouci.

Next up on the agenda were the neighbouring Neue Kammern, or New Chambers, in English. While being fairly little known in the grander scheme of things, it is a fascinating place to visit. The palace, formerly an orangery and thus a little nondescript from the outside, includes a succession of elaborately decorated banquet rooms and suites furnished by the leading artists of Rococo era. Built as a guest house for royal visitors, the New Chambers are almost like a more spacious version of Schloss Sanssouci, which they are located right next to. Neglected by many visitors in favour of the more famous palaces, they are perhaps my personal insider's tip for any Potsdam trip. Discover more about the Neue Kammern.

Literally up, up I went to the next palace of the day: The Orangerieschloss or Orangery Palace. Make sure that whenever you visit, you head up all the way to the top of this Italian Renaissance-inspired building as it offers stunning views over the rest of Potsdam, which in itself may just be one of Germany's prettiest towns. Sliding around the Orangerieschloss in the once obligatory but these days much less common slippers, you will also come across perhaps the most beautiful rooms in all of Potsdam's palaces, the Raphael Hall. See and read a lot more of the Orangerieschloss here.

Schloss Charlottenhof is a bit of a rarity among the palaces of Park Sanssouci as it is a lot less elaborate and more of a cozy family home. It is also the perhaps least known of the plentiful palaces of Potsdam - and not to be confused with Schloss Charlottenburg in nearby Berlin. It was built for the "romanticist on the throne", the future King Friedrich Wilhelm IV of Prussia, in Neo-Classical style. Who was the architect behind this little treasure? Read more on Schloss Charlottenhof here.

Last but very certainly not least on my visit to Park Sanssouci - and a palace must-see on any trip to Potsdam - is the Neues Palais. Built as a guest house by King Friedrich II, it is the largest palace of all of Potsdam. The King himself described the palace as a bravado to represent Prussia's rise to a major European power under his rule. Of the over 200 rooms, four principal gathering rooms, the Marble Gallery, the Marble Hall, the Grotto Hall and the Upper Gallery, as well as a theatre were available for royal functions, balls and state occasions. To discover more about the New Palace, check out this post.

That wasn't quite enough for you yet? Park Sanssouci includes all kinds of different other smaller sights that are well worth discovering. The Chinese House is just one of the many. Others include the Picture Gallery, the Palace Kitchen, the Historic Windmill, the Norman Tower on Ruinenberg, the Roman Baths, the Belvedere Tower and much more.

Waking Sleeping Beauty - or Welcome Back to Confessions of a Castleholic

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 08 Apr 2022 14:38:00 +0000

Long time, no post - but that's going to change. So stay tuned for a new and hopefully improved Confessions of a Castleholic. Last time we spoke, I was all castled out - then I was all blogged out. But while the sleeping beauty slumber of this blog may have started about two years ago, yours truly has been ever busy traveling and discovering the world one beautiful palace at a time. From Bamberg to Florence and Paris to Prague, there is lots to share. The style of posts will change slightly in the future to accomodate less time on this writer's hands but I will try to be as informative as ever and inspire you for whatever travel dreams may lay ahead!

See you - and in the meantime... Don't forget to follow Confessions of a Castleholic on Instagram or Twitter to see all the latest castle hunting adventures.

Why You Shouldn't Bother Watching "Sisi", the New TV Series By RTL

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 12 Dec 2021 20:59:00 +0000

Hi there! I watched a series today that was so bad it made be write the first blog post in one and a half years. Will I write more again in the future? I don't know, I guess we'll see. In the meantime, follow all my latest castle adventures over on Instagram. See you there!

Empress Elisabeth of Austria, the immortal Sisi, has inspired the imagination of the people for more than a century now. Her life, her love, her tragedies, her death. Adored, free spirited and one of the original royal IT girls. A face that could launch a thousands ships, well, bring peace to two feuding nations by simply being her charming self. A woman that, 120 years after her death, can still draw crowds and be the foundation stone of what seems like half the tourist industry of several regions. (Okay, that might have been slightly exaggerated but have you ever been to Vienna and seen the souvenir shops?) So it's not too surprising that time and time again, cinema and TV productions have tried to capture the spirit of one of the most interesting female characters in history. The latest such attempt was made by German TV channel RTL with their series "Sisi", which is available for streaming now and will be shown on TV for Christmas.

If you think that the fact that the series is titled the way Elisabeth's nickname was actually spelled - in difference to the 1950's invention "Sissi" for the film trilogy with Romy Schneider - is an indication that it is any closer to the historical truth, you are, however, dead wrong. It's a lot darker, way less romantic - but any closer to the actual story? Sadly, no. Truth be told, I would love to see a good and honest depiction of Elisabeth's life, the woman behind the icon and the kitsch. She was complex, she was complicated. But unfortunately, the series doesn't capture any of it. Ridiculous storylines, annoying characters with zero depths, sort of cheesy (but not in the good way), cringe and boring were some of my thoughts while watching the first episode. Unfortunately, I didn't get any better from there. (I actually meant to quit the show about halfway through episode three but it was like an accident I couldn't look away from on so many levels.)

Let's start with the easy one and a pet peeve of mine: If I had gotten out my imaginary period drama bullshit bingo, I think I would have ticked off all the boxes within the first 20 minutes of the first episode. Wrong titles, check. Wrong styles, check. Wrong forms of address, check. Wrong depictions of the workings of a royal court, check. (Yeah, maids wouldn't have been seen dead cleaning a room while the Empress is in it, you know.) I also didn't quite understand why they changed the names of the Austro-Hungarian-Bohemian nobles save for a few (like Esterházy) and sometimes used names of other German (minor) noble families but with added or wrong titles (Herzog Wittgenstein or Graf Bodelschwingh). From Radetzky to Liechtenstein and Lobkowicz to Metternich - the nobility of the Habsburg empire has some of the most easily recognisable names even for people who are not well-versed in its history. Research matters. The way the people behave and act and talk - no one would have dared behaving and acting and talking like that in court. When you get such basics wrong or decide to ignore them, how is the viewer supposed to take the rest seriously?

Don't get me wrong, the series did touch on a couple of interesting points. For example, Emperor Franz Joseph - who we often remember as the old man with the the dense side-whiskers who by simply being alive kept the Habsburg empire from falling apart - didn't always make the wisest decisions - a.k.a. plain bad ones - in his younger years leading to war and the suffering of his people. Another one was the role of wives and daughters of the Emperor, how they mattered a lot less than their male counterparts. However, there were several made up plot lines without any historic basis that were more than ridiculous and overshadowed any good intention there might have been.

For starters, did you know that Franz-Joseph and Elisabeth basically fell in love while almost single-handedly fighting off Hungarian rebels outnumbering them about three or four times in the woods near Bad Ischl? (Attention, irony ahead.) I mean, don't we all know how the Salzkammergut was a hotbed of Hungarian revolutionaries in 1853? (Irony off.) It's just one of the many examples were the series doesn't just take historical liberties and artistic license - something I'm not usually too concerned with - but actually wanders off into a totally made up historic parallel universe.

Need other examples? After Elisabeth, at the time just his fiancée, finds out that Franz Joseph has visited a brothel in Starnberg, she walks straight into the brothel and requests talking to the prostitute. The next day she comes back, recruits the prostitute her future husband slept with, gives her a make-over and makes her her lady-in-waiting as a fake countess. Totally believable for an incredibly sheltered, naive and very Catholic princess at the tender age of 15 in the middle of the 19th century, right? As you can probably guess by those sentences, sex sells seems to be one of the main aims of this series, so we probably see Franz Joseph without a shirt on more than actually working behind his desk. The story about the the prostitute-turned-lady-in-waiting doesn't end there though, but how Elisabeth has her arrested for having a relationship with the Hungarian rebel who tries to kill the Emperor not once but twice after a Lesbian make-out session is a story for another day. As are how Elisabeth goes into labour while basically crowdsurfing in front of the Hofburg in Vienna, her travelling in a tiara from Bavaria to Vienna only for it to fall off when the exits the carriage and several other storylines more or less silly than that.

Elisabeth was a lot of things, perhaps more than any fictional portrayal could ever capture - but she was few things the "Sisi" series makes her out to be. She was strong-willed, she was free-spirited, even a rebel in her own way - but she wasn't a political mastermind basically ruling the country in place of a husband who didn't know his way around politics, as this series tries to paint her towards its end as the consequence of the death of her first daughter. But I guess in a way that reflects the current Zeitgeist in the same way as the "Sissi" trilogy did during the 1950's with its overly romantic view of the Empress' life. Probably all of that wouldn't be so bad and a lot more enjoyable as pure entertainment if the marketing machine for the new series wouldn't have made it out to be a historically a lot more accurate portrayal of the life and times of Elisabeth than ever before. From the costumes to the story-telling, it's more "Reign" than "The Queen". For the first half of the six episodes, it was even hard to make out what kind of story they wanted to tell. Few of the main characters' motivations become clear and even when there is development, you are not quite sure where that came from especially during the early episodes. While it gets better towards the end, don't count on me to watch the second season that's already been commissioned.

Almost All Castled Out

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 18 May 2020 19:09:00 +0000

Schloss Reichenow

COVID-19 is holding the world in its grip - and also severely altered my castle hunting plans. Right now, I was supposed to be in Japan discovering the Imperial Palace in Japan, the Fushimi Inari-taisha in Kyoto and perhaps make a day trip to Himeji Castle. All of that will have to wait. COVID-19 rules in Germany in the past couples of weeks also meant that I wasn't able to discover any new castles and palaces around Berlin - and so I was all castled out in the sense that I had no more to write about. That has changed since last Friday. Rules are a tad more relaxed now and I actually spent many days of my current vacation castle hunting again. Now all I need to do is find the time to be kissed by the muse and write about them. So stay tuned, Confessions of a Castleholic will be back sometime soon.

In the meantime, you can follow all my latest castle hunting adventures over on Instagram.

Schloss Schenkendorf

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 07 May 2020 16:00:00 +0000

Well, let's change things up a little but here on Confessions of a Castleholic... So far I ever only wrote about castles I actually saw. After some 200 castles and palaces, it's time for something new. So here's Schloss Schenkendorf, henceforth also known as the castle I never properly laid eyes on. Visiting castles that aren't open to the public can always be a bit of hit and miss. You never quite know how much you will be able to see. There's a reason why I go on these kinds of castle hunting adventures to castles not open to the public usually during the winter months - because there is no greenery in the way. Looking back, it is actually quite surprising that I never had a total miss before. So, Schloss Schenkendorf definitely is a first in that regard - it boasts in impressive gate though, non?!

This castle just south of Berlin owes its existence to publisher and businessman Rudolf Mosse. He commissioned the construction of the Neo-Classical style Schloss in the village of Schenkendorf, hence its name, in 1896. It is situated in the heart of a large park surrounded by two metre high walls. Mosse died at his castle in 1920. Until 1932, the castle continued to be owned by Mosse's family. During the 1920's, it became a popular meeting place for intellectuals from nearby Berlin. By the early 1930's, the publishing company of the Mosse family had run into heavy financial difficulties. The formerly biggest German newspaper publishing company declared bankruptcy. It henceforth came under the forced administration of a trustee corporation.

After 1945, the estate was used by the National People's Army of the German Democratic Republic. Following the German reunification in 1990, Schloss Schenkendorf was given back to their heirs of the Mosse family, who is Jewish and their properties were seized by the Nazis. In 1995, they sold the castle to a very flamboyant new owner by the name of - wait for it - Ottomar Rodolphe Vlad Dracula Prince Kretzulesco. Yep, that's quite a mouthful! Born Ottomar Berbig, he was a Berlin-based antique dealer who was adopted by Romanian aristocrat Princess Catherine Caradja. The new owner brought new life to Schloss Schenkendorf throwing Dracula-themed parties and actually organising blood drives in corporation with the Red Cross. (Kind of a genius idea, I might add.)

The new life at Schloss Schenkendorf, however, wasn't long lived. Ottomar passed away in 2007. Two years later, the castle was sold to a company from Dresden. Over the following years, however, the Schloss started to fall into ruins and it actually became a a popular destination for hunters of lost places. When I visited earlier this year, there were - surprising and luckily for this castle - renovation works going on. I couldn't find any mentions of this in the media, but I'm glad that there may be new life coming to Schloss Schenkendorf soon.

Schloss Königs Wusterhausen

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 26 Apr 2020 08:08:00 +0000

Truth be told, Schloss Königs Wusterhausen is not the most visually remarkable of Prussian castles even though it bears the royal in the name. But somehow it is also a reflection of the man who made this castle famous, King Friedrich Wilhelm II. Known as the Soldier King, he was famously frugal. It is sometimes said that he was the only Prussian King to never build a castle (though I have some doubts about it considering Friedrich III only reigned for 99 days...) There is no doubt, however, that Friedrich Wilhelm II detested all kind of splendour and his hunting lodge in Königs Wusterhausen is a reflection of that, even though it was slightly more splendrous back in the day than it is now.

The current castle is based on a 14th century moated castle firstly mentioned in 1320. Towards the end of the 14th century, the castle was owned by the noble von Schlieben family. In 1475, the Schenken von Landsberg became the new owners of the castle. They remained so for almost 200 years. Following the Thirty Years' War, the family had run into financial difficulties and was forced to sell Königs Wusterhausen in 1669. The castle thus came into the hands of Friedrich von Jena, a university professor and privy council of the Great Elector, Friedrich Wilhelm. In 1683, after Jena's death, the Great Elector's oldest son, the future Friedrich III/I, purchased the castle likely because of the surrounding hunting grounds. He made some changes to the castle giving some of the rooms a Baroque-style appearance.

So, what does a father whose job description is "Elector" get his son for Christmas? You guessed it right, a castle. It was on December 24, 1698, (Germans give presents of Christmas Eve) that Elector Friedrich III gifted this goodie to his ten-year-old son, Friedrich Wilhelm (the Soldier King). Father and son conflicts are a bit of a tradition in the Hohenzollern family and so these two also didn't get along particularly well. Friedrich III didn't only become the first King in Prussia (as Friedrich I) but also loved the royal life. Fancy jewellery, magnificent castles, you name it - he oftentimes spent more than he actually had. His son, in difference, was pretty much the walking Prussian virtue. Despite being known as "the Soldier King" he never actually started a war, because he considered that to be too expensive. He also rigidly managed the treasury and lived an otherwise very austere life.

Friedrich Wilhelm especially liked to live that frugal life at Wusterhausen. He used the castle as a summer residence and hunting lodge, oftentimes spending the months of August, September and October at the castle. In 1717, Königs was added to the town's name which was henceforth literally known as "The King's Wusterhausen". One thing that the King did enjoy were the famous Tobacco Cabinets, gatherings of mainly army officers smoking in sparsely furbished rooms. The famous painting of the Tobacco Cabinet of the Soldier King featured in basically every German history textbook was painted and can still be found at Schloss Königs Wusterhausen. To tell you the truth though, Friedrich Wilhelm did make some changes to his hunting lodge during the early 18th century.

After the death of Friedrich Wilhelm II, Schloss Königs Wusterhausen was officially inherited by his second son, August Wilhelm, and also declared part of the family's fideicommissum. August Wilhelm, however, didn't take a particular interest in his father's castle. Starting in the summer of 1798, life returned to the Schloss for a short while. The elderly Prince Heinrich, the Soldier King's youngest son, asked to be allowed to move into the castle of his childhood. He and his brother Prince Ferdinand spent the month of March there until his death in 1802. Shortly thereafter, between 1805 and 1810, all furniture from the castle was brought to the other Prussian royal residences. By the mid-19th century, Schloss Königs Wusterhausen was used by the Prussian military as a depot.

When King Friedrich Wilhelm IV visited in 1854, he was appalled by the profane usage of the castle. He ordered the military depot to be moved out and started to renovate the castle. He, however, didn't live to see the end of the renovations. In 1861, his younger brother and successor, the future Emperor Wilhelm I, decided to revive the old tradition of royal hunts at Königs Wusterhausen. Thus the amenities of the time, like heating, running water and bathrooms, were installed at the castle. The first royal hunt took place in the fall of 1863 though now the royal family only stayed a couple of days instead of a couple of months. The last royal hunt took place in 1913 under Emperor Wilhelm II. Following the end of the monarchy, usage was very varied. In 2000, the current museum was opened.

Schloss Zeesen

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 19 Apr 2020 09:09:00 +0000

Schloss Zeesen may just be the saddest looking former Prussian royal residence (though this Castleholic isn't entirely certain whether it actually was a royal residence or just a castle owned by a royal). There is not doubt, however, that the ravages of time have played their game with Schloss Zeesen located on the outskirts of Königs Wusterhausen just south of Berlin. Built by Baron Eberhard of Danckelmann according to plans by Johann Arnold Nering around the year 1688, the castle on the shore of a lake came into the hands of the Prussian royal family in 1697. Danckelmann served as the Prime Minister of Brandenburg-Prussia until that year but after political quarrels, Margrave Friedrich III of Brandenburg, the future first King in Prussia, seized his estates. The King gifted Schloss Zeesen to his son and heir, the future Friedrich Wilhelm I, who would become known as the Soldier King. Friedrich Wilhelm regularly spent the hunting season at nearby Schloss Königs Wusterhausen and while I haven't found specific mentions of his time at Zeesen, it's not too hard to imagine that he may have stopped there now and again on his hunts.

By 1765, the Prussian state let Schloss Zeesen and the surrounding estate to the noble von Sydow family. During the following two centuries, ownership changed numerous times. The castle received its current appearance (or rather the one before it started to fall into ruins) during the early 19th century. Schloss Zeesen entered a new exciting age when Eugen Gutmann, one of the founders of the Dresdner Bank, purchased the castle in 1903. Apparently his parties were quite legendary during the days of the Empire. After Gutmann's death in 1925, the castle came into the hands of his fellow banker and friend Ernst Goldschmidt. Goldschmidt, who was Jewish, regularly had famous guests staying there until he left Germany in 1934.

That same year, Gustaf Gründgens, one of Germany's most famous and influential actors of the 20th century who was also very friendly with the Nazis, became the new owner of Schloss Zeesen. Gründgens and his wife lived at the Schloss for the following ten years. In 1939, they even shot a movie, "The False Step" based on the novel Effie Briest by Theodor Fontane, at the castle. Following the Second World War, Schloss Zeesen was seized by the Soviets and henceforth used by the state. In the early 1990's, a group of artists from nearby Berlin squatted the building. They continued to live at the Schloss until 1999 and it since stands empty. While there are several articles from the mid-1990's to early-2000's about an ownership dispute between the heirs of Gustaf Gründgens and Ernst Goldschmidt, I cannot find any resolution to it - and judging by the sad state of the castle, there may not be one.

Schloss Schulzendorf

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 12 Apr 2020 16:27:00 +0000

At first glance, Schulzendorf is just one of the hundreds of villages scattered in the vicinity of Berlin. At second glance, when driving through the village, it is hard to miss its unique selling point: It's Schloss. Located in the heart of the village and a former knight's estate, Schloss Schulzendorf owes its current appearance to Jewish businessmen Moritz and Richard Israel. The first castle on the same site, built during the late 17th or early 18th century, was owned by David Gottlob von Gersdorf. The military man sold the estate and castle to non other than King Friedrich Wilhelm I of Prussia in 1718. The Hohenzollern held onto the estate for a good 100 years until they sold it to Baron Eberhard von der Reck(e) in 1812 in order to generate liquid funds. It was von der Reck(e) who built the church located on the castle grounds.

During the course of the 19th century, Schloss Schenkendorf changed hands twice more. First to Meyer Jacobson and, in 1888, to Moritz Israel. He was one of the heirs of the Kaufhaus Nathan Israel, Berlin's oldest and largest department store. Moritz actually sold his shares of the department store to his brother and invested the money in the purchase of his Schloss. In 1889, construction on a Renaissance-style castle commenced.

Perhaps the two most remarkable features of Schloss Schulzendorf are the high tower, which somewhat reminds me simultaneously of both castles in Italy and old German Bergfrieds or castle keeps, as well as a winter garden in the middle of the Schloss. You can still spot the glass roof in the pictures if you look closely. Soon thereafter, Moritz Israel gifted the castle to his son Richard and his new wife Bianca Cohn for their wedding.

Richard and Bianca lived at Schloss Schulzendorf for the following decades and greatly promoted the development of the surrounding village, including the installation of electricity for everyone and the foundation of a school. However, their life at Schloss Schulzendorf sadly did not find a happy ending. In 1933, the Nazis took over government and life for the Jewish family got very difficult. With the last money, Richard and Bianca were able to help their children and grandchildren flee the country. They were dispossessed of Schloss Schulzendorf in 1939 and deported to Theresienstadt Concentration Camp. Richard Israel was murdered in 1943, his wife Bianca survived.

Schulzendorf being located in the former East Germany, the Schloss was seized by the Soviets following the Second World War. It subsequently came into the hands of the state. In 1993, Schloss Schulzendorf was returned to the heirs of the Israel family, who continue to own the castle to this day. It has fallen in a bit of a deep slumber over recent years with apparently no immediate plans for it. It looks to be in a somewhat reasonable good shape so let us keep our fingers crossed that new life will return to this beauty in the years to come.