by Donnie Smith

We get hit every year with hail season, which leaves many cars needing hail damage repairs.  There are several ways to repair the hail damage and we are going to discuss a few them in this article.  The last method I am going to discuss is probably the most common method used to repair hail damage when not using Paintless Dent Repair.

(1) R&R (Remove and Replace)

Many of the parts that have been hit heavy with hail damage may be replaced instead of being repaired.  Parts that may be replaced are bolt-on parts that can be easily removed such as: hoods, fenders, and trunk lids, etc.  It is usually less expensive to replace the parts than the labor it would cost to repair the parts.  Of course, there is the exception 1 or 2  random hail dents in a panel.  However, a car that has severe hail damage requires a lot of R&R (remove and replace).

(2) Hail Damage Repairs – Traditional Repair

Another way to repair hail damage is by using body filler.  This requires you to grind the repair area to metal, feather edge your paint edges, apply body filler and block sand the body filler.  Then you will need to prime, block and paint.  When using this method, care must be taken not to overheat the metal when grinding.  You may even want to use a Dual Action sander to remove the paint coatings to help reduce the heat.  I would not use anything finer than 80 grit to prepare the metal for filler.  This will assure proper adhesion.

Traditional Hail Damage Repair Steps (For small dents only.  Bigger dents may need to be pulled)

1. Properly clean repair area.
2. Remove coatings to metal using a grinder with 50 grit or a DA sander using 36 to 80 grit.
3. Feather edge paint edges.
4. Blow repair area with compressed air to prepare for body filler.
5. Mix and apply body filler to metal repair area.  Do not apply body filler on paint.
6. Block sand body filler with 80 grit followed by 150 grit sandpaper. (use guide coat when blocking to help find highs and lows).

Now you’re ready for priming, blocking and paint.

(3) Hail Damage Repairs – Old School (Some dents and thinner metal are not a candidate for this repair method)

This method uses heat to raise the metal.  You can use an oxyacetylene torch and heat the metal around the small dent in a spiral motion.  Work from the outside towards the center of the dent.  This will raise the metal.  Then slightly tap the high area with a body hammer to relax the metal.  Last, using a body file cross file the metal  level and determine if the dent is gone.  If there is not a dimple with paint in it, then the dent has been repaired.  As the metal cools, the high area will flatten back out to a level flat surface.  Then you can feather edge the paint, prime, block, and paint.  I have used this method to remove a lot of hail damage.  It is quick, fast, and eliminates the filler and block sanding filler steps.  However, I caution you…this is not a good method to use on newer vehicles.  The metal is too thin and overheating and warping the metal or filing too much metal off when using the body file is a few of the problems you may have.  However, if you are restoring an older car, this method works like a champ.

Old School Hail Damage Repair Steps (For restoration of older cars with thicker metal)

1. Locate small dent
2. Starting with about a 12″ radius around the dent, use a torch with a carbonizing flame (more gas – this produces a cooler flame) heat in a circular motion.
3. Heat the metal until it starts to slightly move.  Then work the heat in a spiral motion towards the center of the dent.
4. Once to the center of the dent has raised, slightly tap the high with a body hammer to relax the metal.
5. Next, use a body file to file the top layer of metal to determine if dent is gone.  If the dent is you will see all metal in the repair area.  If there is a spot with paint, the dent is still there.
6. Once you have crossed filed the area and it is all metal, allow the metal to cool naturally.  Do not use compressed air or water to speed up the process.  As the metal cools, it will level back to a flat surface.

Now you are ready to feather edge, prime, block and paint.

Watch the video demonstrating this method.  In the video, I did not have an oxyacetylene torch.  I used a small propane torch, which did not work as well.

Click here to view the embedded video.

(4) Paintless Dent Repair

PDR is heavily used for hail damage.  This is the process of getting behind the dent with tools and messaging the dent out without the need to paint the outside of the paint surface.  This method is used on many of the parts that are not replaced, such as roofs, quarter panels, bedsides, etc.  However, the tools are expensive and requires much practice to master PDR.

(5) Hail Damage Repairs – Finish Glaze (for smaller hail – large hail may need to be pulled)

This is one of the most common methods used for small hail damage when not using a PDR method and is a method easy to learn with little practice.

This last method for repairing hail damage is the method that I wanted to highlight in this article.  There are other methods, such as PDR that I may go into detail in another article.  However, if you are not performing PDR and the dents are small enough to fill with finish glaze, then this method works great.  I added a video below that will demonstrate this method.  The advantage of using this method is you do not have to remove the paint coating down to the metal.  You simply need to rough the paint with 180 grit or courser for the glaze putty to adhere properly.  It is best not to sand through the clear coat when sanding the surface.  You also want to assure the paint surface is in good condition when using this method.

The obvious advantage is the time it saves from grinding and feather edging.  However, another benefit is the factory e-coat (corrosion protection) is not removed from the part being repaired.  This will eliminate the need for primers to provide corrosion protection, as the e-coat is already providing optimal protection.  I will list the steps, then you can watch a video demonstrating this method.

Steps To Repair Hail Damage Using 3M Glaze

1. Properly clean the areas being repaired
2. Locate all the hail damage
3. Using 180 on a DA, sand the hail dent areas to assure proper adhesion, but do not sand through the clear coat
4. Blow repair areas off with compressed air
5. Clean the surface using wax and grease remover
6. Apply a thin coat of finish glaze to the surface.
7. Block sand the glaze with 150 to 180 grit sandpaper

That is it, now you are ready for prime, block and paint.  Works great!

Here Is A Video That Demonstrates How To Perform This Method…Click Play To Learn More

Click here to view the embedded video.

P.S. Would you like additional dent repair training?  Check out my book!  This guide covers the basics to dent repair.  Eliminate many of the common mistakes when straightening sheet metal.  Visit Dent Repair Book to learn more.

Looking For Lambo Door Kits?  Check out CollisionBlast.com/LamboDoors

by Donnie Smith

We have been discussing how to write an auto repair estimate.  We’ve reviewed how to treat the customer. Now let’s get down to what is going to make or break you as an auto estimator.

It’s All About Sales:

Many auto estimators understand that a big part of their job is to provide stellar customer service.  I don’t think there is a question about that.  However, it takes more than being a nice guy.  An auto estimator must wear many different hats and one of them, or perhaps the most important is to be a good salesperson.  Let’s face it, “nothing happens until the sale is made.”  If there are no sales, there is no business!  I know estimators may not like the thought of being a salesperson, but if you want to be a top performing auto estimator and bring a lot of jobs in for the shop, sales it is.

My Shop Sales Itself:

You may have the nicest shop in your area with all of the latest and greatest equipment, a comfortable waiting room with all of the extras, properly trained technicians, and provide excellent customer service.  However, this may not be what the customer considers when he or she decides where to have their vehicle repaired.  Sure, I agree that these things are important and it may help influence the customer to use your auto body shop, but don’t assume the sale has been made.

How Does This Benefit The Customer:

If you think about it, a nice facility does not really benefit the customer.  What if they think, this business is doing so good, they don’t really need my business!  Then they decide to help out the little guy…because they feel like they are making a difference or helping someone out.  So if you are the big shop, you need to let the customer know and feel their business is needed and will be appreciated.  You will also need to convey how doing business with your body shop is going to benefit them.  If you are a smaller shop, the same principles hold true.  For example, you may have the latest frame machine and measuring system; however, the customer may not understand what the benefits of that are.  They don’t really care if you spent xxx amount  of dollars on this equipment.  They want to know that by using this equipment, their vehicle will be repaired back to the factory specs and back to the pre-accidental condition so they do not have to worry if it will drive correctly or not after repairs.  They want to know that their vehicle will react the way it should if ever involved in another accident again to keep them and their family safe.  Then perhaps, understanding that you have the equipment to assure this is done properly and you have trained technicians to perform the work is a benefit.  So don’t sell customers on your business without conveying how it is going to benefit them.

Don’t Assume The Customer Automatically Knows The Benefits:

As an estimator, all of the insurance jargon, accident procedures, body shop repairs, etc. is an everyday thing to you.  It is easy to start thinking everyone knows the procedures and what to expect from your business.  However, this may be their first accident; or their first time at your shop.  They may not have a clue of what to expect from your business.  For example, you’re probably going to clean the vehicle after repairs.  Most shops do wash the car before returning it to the customer.  Why not make that a benefit?  Tell the customer that after their car has been repaired, you are going to have it washed and cleaned, which will have it looking better than it did before the accident.  That is a benefit, but they will not realize it until you tell them.  I’m sure that all of the shops would have cleaned the car, but they chose your shop because you are the only one that told them.  I am not saying that every customer is going to choose you because you mentioned a car wash, but let them know the things that will set your body shop apart from the other shops.  Don’t assume they already know these things.

What Are Your Priorities?

To make things happen in this competitive business work on you sales skills.  An auto estimator has a lot of responsibility on their shoulders and are caught in the middle of everyone (customer, insurance adjuster, shop manager, technicians, etc.) and are extremely busy.  But don’t put the sales skills lower on the priority list, as nothing happens until the sale is made.

This year the EPA enforced the 6H regulation, which required paint technicians to develop a way to clean their spray guns without spraying any of the thinner into the air. The purpose of this restriction is to reduce them amount of VOCs that are released into the environment.

In this video, I am demonstrating to the students how to clean a paint gun without using oar pressure to spray the thinner through the paint gun.

We found that a spray bottle with cleaning thinner work well for this. Here are the steps to hand clean a paint gun, while only using 2 oz. of cleaning thinner.

Tips

1. Pour remaining material in approved storage container or recycle system.
2. Press the fluid trigger and spray thinner through the gun using a spray bottle. If you are using a traditional cup, spray the sidewalls of the cup first. Have a container available for the waster thinner to gather.
3. One the stream is clear, take the fluid nozzle of and clean the nozzle and tip.
4. Spray thinner on the gun and clean with a towel to remove any final material.
5. Screw the nozzle back onto the gun and blow gun with compressed air to dry and assure that it is clean and ready for storage.

That is it! It only take a minute or two and use less than 2 oz of thinner. If cleaning a traditional cup, it may take slightly more cleaning thinner.

Minimal time and thinner used, and no VOCs sprayed into the environment.

SCROLL TO BOTTOM FOR PRODUCT INFORMATION AND TRAINING VIDEO. HELP US TEACH OTHERS, CLICK THE FACEBOOK BUTTON TO YOUR RIGHT TO SHARE THIS WITH YOUR FRIENDS.

Click here to view the embedded video.

ABRN and Butler Community College partnered together to provide this ABRN HOW2 training video. In this video we are going to demonstrate how to perform dent repair by useing the new Magna-Spot stud welder gun made by Motor Guard. The new gun is used with the same technique; however, it has a few new features that we will demonstrate.

Where Can I Purchase One Online?

There are several place to purchase the new Magna-Spot JO-1050 Stud Welder Gun online:

• Amazon - Amazon has these at the lowest cost I have found.  You can also check with your local Motor Guard Distributor.  

7 Steps To Perform Dent Repair Using A Stud Welder Gun

1. Remove coating (grinder or dual action sander) sanding takes longer, but it much safer with today’s thin metals.

2. Using stud welder gun weld several pins on the damaged area. (remember first in last out)

3. As you start pulling your indirect damage first, use a body hammer to tap down on the highs. (this also helps relax your metal)

4. Pull direct damage last.

5. Remove pins and grind any of the remaining stud welded to the panel. (do not over heat metal)

6. Grind or sand 4″ past damage area to provide a area to apply filler without overlapping paint with filler.

7. Blow repair area off with compressed area.

Now you are ready to apply your body filler, block, prime, block, and get ready for paint.

Additional Information About The New Magna-Spot JO-1050 Stud Welder Gun

Visit MotorGuard.com

LEARN HOW TO AVOID COMMON MISTAKES WHEN APPLYING AND SANDING BODY FILLER. Visit Our  Auto Body Filler Training Page.

In this article I am going to post a few videos demonstrating the different ways to strip a car to metal.  I am often asked if it is necessary to strip the paint finish to metal when performing a complete paint job.  Or, they feel stripping the paint to the metal will produce a higher quality result.    However, if the paint on the vehicle is in good condition, it is not necessary to strip the paint off.  In fact, it’s better to leave the original finish and e-coat that was applied at the factory.  If that is the case,  all that is needed is proper cleaning and final sanding and you’re ready to paint.

What if the paint is not is good condition? Well, that is when stripping comes in.  Some of the paint defects that may require stripping are: peeling, rust, checking, cracking, paint too thick, etc.   If one of these paint defects are present, it may be necessary to partial strip or strip to metal.  I know of three ways to strip: media blasting, chemical strippers, and sanding.  Well, if the paint is not adhering well you can also blow, pressure wash or scrape the paint off.   Below I fond a few videos on YouTube demonstrating  a few of stripping techniques.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Media Blasting

Click here to view the embedded video.

Chemical Stripping

The third way is to use a Dual Action sander and sand the paint off with course grit sandpaper followed by a finer grit sandpaper.  If you only have one or two panels to strip, I believe that this is the easiest method to use.  Most shops do not have a media blaster and chemicals are messy.  However, if you are doing a restoration job that there is evidence of rust, I would recommend the media blasting.  You may have to sublet that out to a company that is know for doing good work.

I just read an article that I believe is worth writing about.  I will provide the link to the full article at the end of the post.  I encourage you to take a few minutes to read it.  I am going to high light a few points of the article.

It is about a young boy with a rough childhood.  His mother was on drugs, moving from home to home and even lived in a car for a period of time.  Later the young child and his younger brother were taken from the mother and placed in foster care.  Being a violent child, he was sent from foster home to foster home.  The story goes into detail of how he ended up homeless on the streets.  However, I am going to jump to the point that I would like to make.

Never Give Up
This young man is now doing something that he thought he’d never do.  That is going to college.  He is enrolled in a auto body and paint program.  He mentions that the thought of going to college.  In fact, the thought of it was not even attractive to him at first with all of the responsibility and having to get up early.  However, he has adapted well and really likes working on cars.  The story is not over yet.  This is not a big success story, as he still has a long journey in front of him.  As many of us know, even being successful with a decent job can be a struggle at times.  Dealing with employees, customers, and all of the day to day complications that come with life.  The more things a person have (house, car, toys, job, family, etc.) the more stress the are going to have.  Life itself can be a challenge sometimes.  I am not to be depressing, but to make a point that you should never give up.  Give that extra effort to be in class on time, make that “A”, to get the job you want, and to do your best, even on days when you don’t feel like it.  That is what is going to achieve the true success you desire in your career.

Make It Happen
So where are you heading.  Have you completed high school?  If you have, are you sitting around waiting for things to happen or fall into place?  Well, chances are that it’s not going to happen.  You may still be waiting in a year, five years, or even ten years with the exact same circumstance that you are today.  I’m not trying to make anyone feel bad or upset, but if you want something, go get it.  No one is going to do it for you.  You have to be the one to make it happen.  You may get help and support along the way, but you have to make the final decision to pursue a successful career.

What Career Pathway Should I Choose?
I teach and promote auto collision repair.  However, I do not encourage this career pathway if you are not interested in it.  There are too many careers out there to settle for one that is not a fit for you.  My advice is to think about what your interests and passions and find a career to fit it.  If you don’t know where t start go to your local college and speak to an advisor.  Ask them for resources to help you select a career pathway.  There are even test that you can take that will help guide you in the right direction.  Finding a career is easy, it’s making the decision to make it happen that is hard.

Regardless of past or present things going on in your life (like Mike in the story), you have the ability to change and improve it.  Be sure to read the Full Story About Mike

It’s a new year and new school semester is about to begin.  Do you want a new start…..go get it!

If you have any question about a career in collision repair, feel free to comment or ask on tis post.  I will do my best to help answer your questions.

Click here to view the embedded video.

What is an estimator?
An estimator is a person that writes auto repair estimates on vehicles that have been involved in an accident. The estimator must understand the basic car design and know the nomenclature of a vehicle. The estimator must also have good communication skills as they deal with customers on a daily basis. Not only does the estimator have to communicate with customers, but they will also be the contact person for the insurance companies, shop managers, and the shop foreman or technicians. Therefore, communications is a must for an auto estimator. This career pathway is definitely for a people person. In fact, I would even say that a person that writes auto repair estimates for a auto body repair center needs to be part salesman. It is their job to sell them self, the company, the technicians, and the service that the shop provides. Not all technicians make good estimators, but it is a good idea for the estimator to have experience as a technician. Although, there have been people hired without experience and trained by the shop to write estimates.

Who Hires Estimators?
There are two different industries that hire auto estimators. One is auto body repair shops and the other is insurance companies. This can also split into other categories in each industry. Collision shops can be dealerships, franchise shops, or independent shops. Some insurance companies hire their own auto estimators, while other insurance companies hire independent auto estimators. When you write estimates for the insurance company your title may be an auto appraiser instead of an auto estimator.

What Can An Auto Repair Estimator expect to earn?
This can vary on your experience and if you work for a small body shop or a insurance company. However, according to O*Net the national median for an Auto Damage Appraiser is $53,440 and had a growth rate of 7% to 10% in a ten year period. (2006 – 2016) Some collision repair centers will pay their estimators a salary and a percentage of every job that they sell. Therefore, the more estimate sales that the estimator produce, the more income he or she can earn if on one of these types bonus incentives.
What is the first step to becoming an auto estimator?
The first thing you will need is to learn is the basics. You can do this by enrolling in a collision repair program. Many local community and junior colleges offer these programs. This will allow you to learn the basics about the entire industry. Everything from the body repair, structural or frame repair to painting. Most programs incorporate a basic estimating course within the auto program. This will give you a taste of the industry and determine where you fit in best at. You may decide to become a collision or paint technician instead of a person that writes estimates.  Whatever you decide, this training is the first step to securing a job in the auto collision repair or estimating careers. Some insurance companies require that you have a bachelor degree, but many do not. Experience hold a lot of weight with insurance companies as well. The training is your foundation and how you build the building is up to you. What I mean is, once you have your basics down, you have many opportunities and directions to explore.

Where do I find a facility to gain the training?
The best training for your money is going to be at a junior or community college. Community colleges normally focus on smaller groups, which offers lower student per instructor ratio. This leads to a deeper level of learning. They also receive state and federal funding, which allows them to offer quality programs at a much lower cost to the student. Other training facilities include technical schools and private owned schools. Check with your local community college to see if they offer collision repair. If not, ask them if there is a nearby tech school that does. Chances are that they will know where to point you in the right direction. Once enrolled in a collision repair program, you will be on your way to a career as a person that writes auto repair estimates or many other career pathways that collision repair has to offer.

Watch for more episodes of Auto Estimating 101 at CollisionBlast.com/AutoShow

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The Wait Is Over
It has been a long wait, but Butler is going green.  The PPG waterborne paint showed up at the school today.

A Cleaner Environment
Today PPG rep, Steve Johnson, and our jobber, Danny Hutchins stopped by with the AquaBase waterborne paint.  Now we can start teaching students waterborne technology.  It is not mandatory to be waterborne in Kansas yet as in a few states, but many shop owners are switching to waterborne paint for the green benefits.  A cleaner environment is a huge benefit, however, there are many other benefits to using waterborne paint.

The First
Steve Johnson said that Butler was the 1st collision repair program in his territory to make the switch to waterborne.  The school was encourage to switch to waterborne by their advisory board.  Mitch Speck, the lead painter at Auto Craft in Wichita was a huge advocate of waterborne paint after making the switch himself.  After using waterborne paint, Mitch stated that he would not want to use solvents again….regardless of the green benefit.

Solvent Paints Are Not  Forever Gone
There are still many shops using solvent paints so we are going to continue training with solvents in addition to waterborne. The solvents will be taught using PPGs lower paint line called ShopLine.

More To Come
We will be posting more about our waterborne experience as we start to use the paint.  Check back to learn more about waterborne paint.

We are excite about the switch to waterborne paint and providing a cleaner learning environment for the students.  Help spread the excitement by re-tweeting or posting on Facebook.

Click The TCP Banner To Discover The Largest Selection Of Auto Body and Custom Paint Supplies. They Carry Kustom Shop, House of Kolor, PPG…..Just Click To Learn More!

Blending Paint Tutorial – How To Blend Paint

Click here to view the embedded video.

This is an ABRN How2 tip brought to you by Donnie Smith at BCC.  After a car is involved in an accident, it is the collision repair shop’s job to repair the vehicle back to its pre-accidental condition.  However, with all of the colors, metallic’s, pearls, and many other factors a perfect paint match can be very difficult to achieve.  In order to make an “invisible repair”, the shop must blend the paint into an existing panel or within the panel if possible to reach the perfect paint match.  Well, it may not be a perfect paint match, but you will never be able to notice the difference if blended properly.

As you will see in the video, this is also a technique that you could use to fade one color into another color if you want to paint a custom effect on the car that you are painting.

Would You Like A Few Tips For Adjusting Your Spray Gun and Spraying Techniques? Visit OurIwata Spray Gun Page For Several Videos With Tips and Spray Guns For Sale.


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It seems like many businesses are so busy chasing the new catch, they forget to take care of the folks that keep them in business.

It is aggravating to the loyal customers that get placed behind new potential customers or the “big catch.”  However, you see it all of the time.  If you stop and think about it,  how much social networking, advertising, networking face-to-face, and all of the other effort and money do you spend trying to reach out and attract new customers? With all of the effort spent trying to get the customers, don’t you think we should try harder to keep the customers after we get them?  Sure, this makes perfect sense, but it does not seem like many businesses try very hard.  Here is a question for you.  Do you think you would have better luck and service out of your current salesman or a salesman trying to switch you to their line of products?  That’s right, the new sales person is going to do whatever it takes to get your business.  Why couldn’t the current business do a little better job of trying to keep you?  

I know that many businesses already provide excellent customer service.  However, I have seen my share of being put on the back burner while they are trying to catch the bigger and better customers.  

A little food for thought, spend an equal amount or more effort and time to keep your current customers as you spend trying to find new ones.  If you’re already doing that, then you’re ahead of many businesses that I have worked with in the past.  For instance, I was recently at a trade show trying to buy what they had to offer.  The first guy walked off, the second salesman started showing me the product and I told him that I would like to purchase it.  No kidding, he saw someone that must have been “important” and said excuse me…..right at the close of the sale and walked off!  I was stupid enough to keep asking other people until someone would sell it to me.  I really wanted the product, as I thought it would  benefit the students at the college that I teach at.  I sucked my pride in and made the purchase.  I think back and wish that I would have just walked away.  However, I am pretty sure that I will not continue to do business with them.  

The next time you are with a current customer tell the potential customer that you will be with them in a minute.  You’ve already made the catch with your loyal customer……don’t let em’ get away.

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NACE It Is!
I had to make a decision between SEMA and NACE this year.  They are both providing collision repair training, but after looking at what both events have to offer, I believe that NACE offers the better training package for the collision repair industry.  Therefore, NACE it is!

A Few Speakers To Consider

Mike Anderson – I have had the opportunity to meet Mike and listen to several of his presentations at a few events.   I highly recommend Mike and I think he is a great speaker.  You will definitely leave with some useful advice.  I will not be attending Mike’s class at NACE, as I have already been to the classes that he is offering.  However, if you have not attended one of his classes, I recommend that you add it to your schedule.  For more about Mike you can visit his website at CollisionAdvice.com

Jody DeVere  - Jody is a longtime online social friend and I had the opportunity to meet her at NACE last year.  We follow each other on many different social networks and I am familiar with your purpose and dedication to the auto industry.  Jody trains and certifies auto businesses to be female friendly.  She will be presenting a class, “What Women Want” at NACE this year, which I plan to attend.  I believe that it will be a great class and encourage you to consider it too.  To Learn more about Jody you can visit her website at AskPatty.com

Bob Cooper – Bob is a expert author on CollisionBlast.com and has posted several articles educating readers about work ethics and a glimpse of his presentation at NACE 2010.  I have not had the chance to meet Bob yet, but that is going to change, as I plan on attending his class this year.  I encourage you to check it out as well.  To learn more about Bob visit EliteWorldWideStore.com

To see all of the other classes offered at NACE this year check out their complete list of classes scheduled.  NACE Training Schedule

Are you planning on going to NACE?  If you are let us know about it.

1. What classes do you recommend?

2. Do you have a booth?

3. What else is going on?

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The Front Desk
I went to the doctor’s office the other day and it was quite an experience.  First of all, I walked into the front desk to sign in, but they did not have a sigh in sheet.  I stood at the window waiting to let them know that I was there, as I waited 15 minutes listening to the two women on the other side of the counter discuss their problems at home.  I remember a little bit of the conversation, but it would not be appropriate to post it to this blog.  Finally, I got her attention, but she spent a few more minutes venting before looking at me.  As she looked at me, I waited for her to ask, may I help you…but she gave me the look, you know, the “do you need something or not” look.  I proceeded to tell her that I was there for an appointment, but she rolled her eyes and said… sign it.  I replied, where do I sign in at.  As she huffed,  she looked for the sign in sheet, but she must have not been able to find it because she flipped a medical transcript over and said sign here.

The Joke
After waiting over an hour, as with many doctor’s office, I heard my name on the intercom to come to the back.  I was not sure where to go, which I must have made a mistake, as I walked in to a room with people, which appeared to be farmers and ranchers, laughing and making jokes while looking at x-rays hanging up.  I quickly turned around and went from room to room until I found a nurse.  Finally, she directed me to the room that I was supposed to be in.

The Doc
I wait another half hour for the doctor to come in.  However, I was quite surprised when he walked in.  I thought something must be wrong and I wondered if I was in the right place.  He walked in stuck out his hand and said, “hi, I’m the doc.”  I realized that he was one of they guys in the room that was laughing, as he had on overalls and he was the one laughing the hardest about the x-ray.

The Diagnosis
He proceeded to look at me with comforting word like, what in the ****.   This really made me nervous as I did not know if something was extremely wrong with me or not.  After he was done, I asked, is there something wrong?  He replied, “nah, I think you’ll be alright.

Professionalism
Of course, this story is made up, as we don’t normally see doctors wearing overalls and using profanity when talking to us.  However, the front desk may not be too exaggerated from some of the places that I’ve been. lol This story does not portray a professional business.  You would expect the doctor to be well dressed and to treat you in a professional manner.  The auto industry is not really any different.  Sure the look is different, you don’t expect to see the technicians wearing suites, but it does look good if they are all wearing company shirts.  I don’t know what it is, but a technician in shorts and a tank top just don’t look as professional as a technician wearing a company uniform.

Which Auto Body Shop Would You Choose?
People expect to be treated with respect and with professionalism where ever they are.  I am not claiming that all of the shops out there provide excellent customer service, but I think most people would rather do business with the shops that do treat their customers well and portray a professional image.  Think about it, which shops grow and which shops stay small.  Most shops that grow and become very successful are the businesses that treat their customers in a professional manner.

The Lesson
Many Collision Repair programs require that you wear uniforms to help teach professionalism.  You become a professional by practicing.  Therefore, dress the part and work on your personal and communication skills while learning the technical skills.  Start thinking about how you treat and talk to other people.  Be aware that profanity may offend some of the customers.  The use of profanity, how you dress, the nude photo’s on your toolbox, etc. may give the shop that you work an unprofessional image when customers are there.  Try to avoid these habits and the time to start is now.  Start while you are in school so you will have the skills you need to be a professional technician when you have completed the program.  After acquiring these personal skills and the technical skills, most employers will be glad to have you on their team.

This video demonstrates how to apply the new 3M and how to sand the glaze. Once sanded and featheredged, you’re ready to mask and prime with epoxy primer.

HOW TO APPLY TRADITIONAL FINISH GLAZE

In this video a BCC student demonstrates how to use traditional glaze.

Benefits Of Using Finish Glaze

• Can be applied over sanded body filler, sanded primer, or sanded paint.  I would recommend to sand with a no finer grit than 180 to assure proper adhesion.  Glaze will not stick to non-sanded substrates.
• Spreads smooth and sands easy.
• Can be applied over small dings and dents without removing factory e-coat corrosion coatings.
• Minimal Shrinkage

Disadvantages Of Using Finish Glaze

• Costs more than body filler.
• Can not be applied as thick as body filler.

STEP BY STEP PROCEDURE

The body filler has been block sanded and finished in 80 grit sandpaper.  Now you are ready to feather edge and apply glaze.

1. Feather the paint edges around the repair area with 220 grit sandpaper on a DA.  Sand each layer of coating to expose at least 1/4″ of each coating.
2. Blow repair area with compressed area to remove all dust.
3. Apply (either type 3M or traditional) glaze from paint edge to paint edge.  (slightly overlap onto the sanded painted surface.)
4. Allow to fully dry and block sand with 80 grit sandpaper. (just knock the highs down…do not sand on the painted surface to eliminate 80 grit scratches on paint surface.)
5. Apply guide coat to help identify highs and lows.
6. Block sand glaze and finish shaping with 150 grit sandpaper.

That is it!  Now you’re ready for primer and paint.  We’ll hit that in another lesson!

You always hear safety first at safety meetings, but many technicians think safety is a lot of hype and ignore the safety policies. So is safety really that important?

Let’s Talk Cars
First, since we’re all about cars, not safety, let’s talk about restoring an awesome car. Let’s say we have an unlimited budget to build a million dollar ride. You know, a car like Chip Foose at Foose Design would build. Of course, it would take hours and hours of labor and thousands of dollars to get it there, but the end result would be well worth the wait and money. Could you imagine having a ride worth one million dollars? I’m sure that you would take a lot of pride in it. I know that I would. Would you take car of it? What about storage, would you keep it in the garage or put it out back in the weather? I’m sure that you would do everything that you could to protect the car from being damaged.

Another Question
If someone offered you a million dollar car like this, would you exchange it for you eyesight? What about a leg or would you trade your life for it? I am assuming you answered no, as these things are priceless to us. I would not want to even exchange my eyesight or life for a billion dollars. While most of you would agree, we are quick to ignore safety and grab a grinder and start grinding, weld without a welding helmet, paint without a paint respirator, or many other things that could affect our health without thinking twice about it. If you’re willing to take good care of a car, do you think you should take care of yourself?

Over Exaggerating
Well, this is over exaggerated. Is it? There are many eye injuries and painters that have to leave the collision repair industry every year due to becoming sensitive to paint chemicals. It really happens, but the good news is that most injuries are preventable.

How To Prevent Injuries
It would take a while to explain all of the PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) that needs to be used, but I will highlight a few of them.

1. Eye Protection – Most schools require eye protection to be worn at all times in the shop area, but I see a lot of body shops that do not require eye protection. However, I would highly recommend that you get in the habit of wearing eye protection. Eyesight is too valuable to lose.
2. Dust masks – When sanding or grinding wear an approved dust mask. This will prevent you from breathing all of the products be sanded and other debris that is not healthy for you.
3. Respirator – The catalyzed clears and primers that are out there should not be taken lightly. They have chemicals that will mess you up. Wear an approved respirator when spraying any coatings.
4. Gloves – Chemical resistant gloves should be worn when working with chemicals. This will prevent the chemicals from entering your body through your skin.
5. Hearing Protection – You may not need to wear hearing protection at all times, but if there is griding, air chiseling or other loud things going on, protect your hearing.

Say Who….You Do!
There are many other PPE and safety procedures to consider before working in a shop area. I hope when you question who is saying safety first, you think of yourself. Forget about the policies and procedures, keep yourself safe……. you’re worth a million dollars after all!

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First of all, let me explain what the difference is between bondo and body filler. Well, there is not a difference. Bondo is just a brand name. You may be saying there is a difference, some spread easier that others and some sand easier. That is true too! How can it be the same and different? Well, Coca-Cola and Pepsi are both a pop, right? But they are different at the same time. Body fillers are the same way. Bondo is just a brand of body filler. However, it has became a trade name. The reason that I post this first is because I get a lot of question about this. So there you go, now you know.

In the first training video, I will demonstrate how to mix and apply body filler to a damaged area.

Click here to view the embedded video.

In the next video below I am demonstrating how to block sand body filler.  A common question that I get asked it how to sand body filler without it feeling lumpy or wavy.  There are a few things that will help you get a level surface.

The first thing is to cross sand.  I can not stress how important this is.  Sanding in only one direction allows your block to follow waves.   Kind of like a ship at sea….going with the motion.  However, we don’t want to follow patters, we want to level them.

The second little bit of advice it to level before smoothing.  I think that students have the objective is to get the body filler real smooth.  However, switching to finer grits too soon will lead to lumpy body filler work.  Make sure to have surface completely level before switching to finer grits.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Step-By-Step – 9 Step To Apply and Sand Body Filler

1. •If the repair has been welded, mix and apply fiberglass filler to repair area.
2. •Sand the filler with 36 grit.  There is no need to use a finer grit as body fill will be applied over the fiberglass.  All you need to level the glass filler.
3. •Mix and apply body filler over the repair area.  Cover and extend body filler over fiberglass.  Do not extend the filler onto the paint surface.
4. •Block sand (cross sand) the filler with 36 grit sandpaper.  (This step can be done before the filler is completely dry to reduce the amount of sanding required.)
5. •Repeat step if there are still lows.
6. •Allow to fully cure (15 to 20 minutes) and spray with guide coat.
7. •Block sand (cross sand) with 80 grit sandpaper.  Sand just enough to remove guide coat.  If guide coat does not sand off in an area indicates a low and additional filler will be needed.
8. •Optional: Either apply guide coat and block sand with 150 grit; Or, Apply a coat of finish glaze over entire repair area.  Remember, glaze can be applied over sanded paint too.
9. •Finish filler or glaze by blocking with150 grit.

For more free auto body and paint training, visit TeachMeHow.info

If you need any product information, help or questions, I here to help.  Send questions to CollisionBlast@gmail.com

Learn How To Apply and Sand Finish Glaze Putty.  Visit Our Finish Glaze Training Page. 

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Well, I have mentioned that I was going to blog about our waterborne experience in our collision repair program at Butler Community College, but I don’t think that is going to happen this year after all.

I guess there was a major confusion on my part, as I understood that PPG and Car Color Automotive Finishes was going to switch us out.  For two years I have asked them to provide me a total cost of the transition so I could find funding for it.  Last semester it was my understanding that all we needed to purchase was the gun washer and a dedicated paint gun and they were going to cover the paint cost.  However, Car Color stopped by to visit me today with an invoice of about $10,000.  Well, it’s a little late for them to change their mind or make a final decision for the cost, as I did not seek funding for this.  

To make a long story short, Butler County Community College will NOT be using waterborne this school year. 

I apologize to any students that were expecting waterborne paint.  However, we will make it right.  We have some folks on our advisory board that use waterborne paint at Auto Craft.  I will contact them to see if we can purchase some paint from them so we can have some exposure and training on waterborne paint.   

Perhaps a collision repair program or body shop that is using waterborne paint could fill my shoes and post a few articles about their waterborne experience for us on Collision Blast.

We are in the process of switching to PPG waterborne paint at our collision repair program at Buter Community College.  PPG mentioned switching us out over the summer when no students were here, but we are still waiting and school is going to start soon.  I am sure that they have a plan as they appeared to be excited to switch us to waterborne.  I know that I am!

Why Did Butler Decide To Switch To Waterborne?
After our advisory board advised up to make the switch and our college looking for ways to become more “green” environmental friendly, I decided to attended a class at the PPG training center to learn more about the waterborne paint.  Seeing how well it performed, it was just a matter of getting PPG to switch us out.

Getting Involved With Waterborne
Butler offered a waterborne training workshop  last semester for other instructors to attend in the state of Kansas.  PPG helped out by setting up a waterborne mixing system and demonstrated how to spray the paint.  PPG took all of the paint with them, but they left the mixing shelf behind.  Therefore,  we have one piece of the equipment, so I know they will be back!  I just hope before the students return, which is soon.

Any other shops or schools switching to waterborne out there?  I spoke with the collision repair instructor from Francis Tuttle Technology Center in Oklahoma City several years ago.  He said that they switched and really liked the waterborne paint.  Hopefully, I can tell you more about it in the months to come.

If you have had any experiences, good or bad, we’d like to hear them.  Leave us a comment with your feedback.  Also, be sure to give us a thumbs up on the like button and share us on twitter.

by Donnie Smith

Well, my summer has came to an end as I start teaching student orientation tomorrow.  After two weeks of teaching this class, I have a week of teacher meetings, then back into the full throttle action of our collision repair program at Butler Community College.

Student orientation is a class that helps students become familiar with Butler and how to have the best experience while at Butler.  I teach a class with technical students that are pursuing career training in programs like, collision repair technology, welding and automotive technology.  Our student orientation director thinks that it’s a good idea to put technical students with technical instructors.  This will provide better communication by allowing the instructors to have similar interests and related examples to share with the students.

The reason I am telling this to you is to convey how committed Butler is to providing the best student experience possible.  We’re not about just filling a classroom full with students, we’re about limited class sizes and going the extra mile to provide the best education possible.

I believe that many of the classes are already full for Fall, but there may still be a few openings.  To see what all we have available visit Butlercc.edu

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If you have ever been on a hot date you should be able to take the first steps to performing auto body and paint work. First, I will describe the dating process, then I’ll relate it to working on cars.

One Of The Most Overlooked or Rushed Steps

Preparing For The Date
I still remember when I first started dating when I was younger. When I was in high school I did a lot of outdoor labor. Haul pipe, work outside in lumber yards, weld cow panels, and other types of work like this. At the end of the day, you could say I was quite sweaty and dirty, but I did not seem to get tired then. I wish that I still had some of the energy that I had then! Anyway, as soon as the work was done, I would hit the shower to get ready for the night. I would shower to remove the body sweat and odors, as I did not want my date to smell BO. Then I would get my hair just right, yes I had a mullet, and of course I would brush my teeth extra good. I did not want to knock my date out with my breath. I would take every single necessary step to assure that I was ready for the night.

Dating With Confidence
When I went on the date I would have the confidence that everything was ready to impress the date. If the chance to set next to them, talk, or even kiss; I knew that she would not be grossed out with bad breath or sweat.

This is how I remember getting ready for a date, however, I am not saying this is how everyone prepares for a date. In fact, I know of some people that did not do much preparation before their dates. Do you thing there dates went well? They could pull every smooth line and slick trick in the book, however, if the date was turned of from the start, the date is probably not going to go well and you may not have a second chance to date them.

So What Does This Have To Do With Car Paint Jobs or Body Work?
One of the common mistake made in auto body and paint work is improper preparation. We’re so excited to get started working on the car and overlook properly cleaning it. Just like being successful on a date, the first thing you need to do before beginning the work is to wash the car with dish soap and water. Then we need to wipe the car with wax and grease remover. Once this is done, you can begin repairs with confidence. However, if you skip the cleaning procedure, the repairs are going to fight you and be difficult throughout the entire repair process no matter how hard you try. Then the end result may have problems like lack of adhesion or fish eyes just to name a few.

Good Advice
So here is my advice to you whether you are getting ready for a hot date or starting a collision repair or paint project. Thoroughly Clean First!

This story is a little corny, but it does a great job of making a point and helping you remember a simple step that many people forget or rush through.  This is in the book I wrote “Collision Blast Basic Auto Body and Paint Training.”  If you would like to learn more about the basics, you can purchase the book from Amazon below.

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THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED TO PREPARE YOUR CAR FOR REFINISHING

GOT DENTS? LEARN 7 QUICK STEPS TO REPAIR DENTS USING A STUD WELDER GUN. Visit Our Dent Repair Training Page.

Click here to view the embedded video.

In this video, I am demonstrating to students how to mix and apply body filler.

Here are the steps to to apply body filler.

1. Make certain the metal is clean.
2. Put the amount of body filler needed on plastic board.
3. Add one dime size of cream hardener to each golf size of filler. Be sure to kneed the hardener.
4. Mix the filler and hardener together by mixing in one direction. Do not stir or whip. This will create air bubbles.
5. Apply a tight coat to ensure proper adhesion.
6. Spread filler higher than surface. This will allow sanding.

Resources

• Z Grip Body Filler
• Mixing Board and Spreaders

That is it!  It’s a simple application, just make sure NOT to spread body filler over the painted surface and NOT to stir the filler.  Next, we’ll discuss techniques for sanding the body filler.

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Click here to view the embedded video.

Why Use Epoxy?

Epoxy is used first as it has excellent adhesion and corrosion resistance.  The epoxy blankets the metal, which does not allow any oxygen reach the metal.  Epoxy also adheres (sticks) good to the metal or other substrate and top coats adhere good to the epoxy.  Therefore, epoxy is a good choice to use on repair areas where there is exposed metal or body filler.

What Epoxy Is Not

Epoxy does not have high build or fill imperfections well.  Therefore, epoxy is not designed to be applied and block sanded.  If there are still scratches or areas where body filler was applied, you really need to apply primer surfacer on top of the epoxy primer.  We’ll discuss that in another video.

In this lesson we are going to learn how to spray epoxy primer onto the repair area. Here is the process step-by-step.

1. Wipe the repair area clean with wax and grease remover.

2. Clean with tack cloth – A used one will work fine.

3. Always Used Proper PPE When Using Paint Products

4. Mix Epoxy Primer – Remember that you may need to wait an induction time before using.

5. Spray 1 – 2 coats onto repair area.

6. Allow To Flash (dry) for 15 minutes between coats.

7. Allow to flash for 30 minutes before spraying primer surfacer.  JP serious epoxy primers MUST be scuffed and reapplied if sit more than 3 days (72 hours.)

8. Clean Primer Gun and Mix 2K Primer Surfacer.

Now the repair area has epoxy primer applied, now you’re ready to mix and apply primer surfacer.  Note:  You do not sand epoxy primer before applying primer surfacer.  However, primer surfacer must be applied within 72 hours.

 Resources Below:

• DeVilbiss Paint Gun 1.8 - This is the spray gun I was using in the video.  However, since then I have tried the new 3M Accuspray and it works great as a primer gun as well.  The advantage with the DeVilbiss is it come with several different sizes of fluid tips.  For primers, 1.6 – 1.8 works best.  Both great guns for heavy primer coatings.
• 3M Accuspray Prime Gun 1.8
• Wax and Grease Remover - Wax and grease remover is an important step.  Every line of point has wax and grease remover.
• Tack Cloth
• Respirator - Do not sacrifice your health.  Paint materials are not to be taken lightly.  Always use proper protective equipment.  Especially and approved respirator.
• Shopline Technical Sheet - This is the technical data sheet for the primer I used in the video.  However, a different brand will have different recommendations.  Therefore, use the technical data sheet for line of products you are using.

Click here to view the embedded video.

This video demonstrates how to mix epoxy primer.  Epoxy is good primer to use on bare metal.  It provides excellent adhesion and has very good corrosion resistant properties.  Therefore, if you have quite a bit of metal exposed this is a good type of primer to use.  If you only have a few small metal areas you can use self etching primer.

One thing to remember about epoxy primer is that some of them have an induction time.  This means that the primer and catalyst must be mixed together and allowed to set for a certain amount of time.  Be certain to read the primer procedure pages to determine if this is needed.  To read some of Shopline P-Pages Visit their website.

Epoxy does not need to be sanded.  If you are needing to block sand you can apply primer surfacer on top of this primer.  To learn more google for the p-page for the brand of paint that you’re using or ask your paint supplier if he or she can supply you with a copy.

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Click here to view the embedded video.

In this video I am demonstrating how to use a stud-nail gun to repair a small minor dent on a panel.  Obviously there are more than one way to repair a minor dent.  For example, you could use PDR (paintless dent removal), hammer and dolly, etc.  However, this demonstrations is specifically for using a stud-nail gun to remove the dent.

This tool tack welds a small nail or rod to the panel.  Once tacked you can use various tools or methods to pull it.  Once you are done pulling the nail can be removed.  This may require wiggling or cutting the nail with dyke pliers.

1.  The first thing you want to do is to remove the paint coatings.  The nail will need to tack to bare metal.   (Note: this is for metal only.  There is a similar tool use for aluminum.  Also, in the video I am using a 3′ grinder, but care must be use not to over grind the metal.  With newer metal that are very thin you may consider using a DA sander to remove that coating)

2. Attach the stud nail to the panel.  Remember the first in last out rule.  In other words, reverse the damage sequence.

3. Use multiple push and pulls.  Always try to find the high area to push on while pulling the low out.  Single pulls will cause stretched and undesired results.  Roll the metal back to the original shape…not force.  Therefore, I do not encourage using the slide hammer toll.  Use this only as last resort.

4. Once the metal is straightened, cross grind or sand to clean the metal and provide proper adhesion for body filler.  Be sure to grind or sand 4″ inches past the damaged area.  This will eliminate applying filler on top of your painted surface.

Now you are ready to apply your body filler.  

Two tones are not included in the time given to refinish a panel. Two-tone means when there are two different colors on the vehicle. Again, we use a simple formula to determine the time to estimate for this operation. Before we discuss two-tones I am going to touch on edging and painting the undersides of panels. In all of the examples that we have had, we only repaired the parts. Normally when you repair a part the jamb or inside of the panel does not need to be repainted. However, any time you replace the part it will be necessary to paint the inside. For example, if we replace a right front fender and it pays 3.0, that does not include the inside. All you need to do is look in the estimating guide and it will give you the time to for edging or to paint the inside of the panel. The right front fender may state to add .5 for edging. This would give you a total paint time of 3.5 to paint the right front fender.


Now back to two tone. The reason that I mention edging now is this. Many new cars have different color schemes for the insides of the panels. Therefore, you should be able to add for two tone. I don’t know if shops are adding two tone for this operation, but it may be something to consider. To add for two tone add 50% per refinish hour for your fist major panel and 30% for each additional panel. Basically, it is the same formula as clear coat, just different numbers to plug in. However, this does not add the clear coat as tri-coat does. It is possible to have a single stage two tone so clear is not figured into the two-tone time.


If the first panel gives 3.0 to refinish the panel, you would multiply 3.0 x 50% = 1.5. Then you would add for clear coat by multiplying 3.0 x 40% = 1.2. This would give you a total of 5.7 hours to paint, two-tone and clear coat the panel.


Let’s take a look at the same example that we’ve been working on and determine what the refinish time will be with two-tone added.

                                                 Body Labor   Paint Labor

Repair Hood Panel                       2.5                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                                    .0
  Add For Two-Tone                                          1.5
  Add For Clear                                                1.2
  Adjusted  Paint Time                                      5.7

Repair Right Front Fender          2.0                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                                 -.4
  Adjusted Paint Time                                     2.6
  Add For Two-Tone                                         .8
  Add For Clear                                               .5
 Adjusted Paint Time                                  3.9

Repair Left Front Fender          1.0                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                              -.4
  Adjusted Paint Time                                  2.6
  Add For Two-Tone                                   .8
  Add For Clear                                            .5
  Adjusted Paint Time w/ tri-c                  3.9

Total Labor           5.5            13.5

Adding for tri-coat or three stage paint is similar to adding for clear coat. However, you will need to know when to add for clear coat and when to add for tri-coat. Tri-Coat consists of base coat, mid-coat and clear coat, which is three different operations that you must do to get the paint to match. The mid-coat may be a pearl coat or a tinted clear to create different effects, including shifting colors and adding more depth. It may be very difficult to determine by looking if it is a tri-coat or not. To be certain if you are charging for the correct operation is to locate the paint code on the vehicle and look it up. The paint code is NOT part of the VIN number. It is a code that is located in various places on a vehicle. The p-pages will give you some general ideas of where these paint code labels may be located and will help you identify tri-coat colors.  

When adding for tri-coat you do not add for clear coat. The clear coat time is included in the tri-coat application. Use the same formula by deducting for overlap and for adding clear, except add 70% per refinish hour to your first panel and 40% to each additional panel.

Let’s examine the same example that we’ve been discussing with tri-coat.

                                             Body Labor   Paint Labor

Repair Hood Panel                 2.5                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                              .0
  Add For Tri-Coat                                      2.1
  Adjusted  Paint Time w/ tri-c                     5.1

Repair Right Front Fender      2.0                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                            -.4
  Adjusted Paint Time                                2.6
  Add For Tri-Coat                                     1.0
 Adjusted Paint Time w/ tri-c                  3.6

Repair Left Front Fender       1.0                 3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                             -.4
  Adjusted Paint Time                                 2.6
  Add For Tri-Coat                                    1.0
  Adjusted Paint Time w/ tri-c                  3.6

Total Labor           5.5            12.3

When writing auto repair estimates the auto estimator must add for clear coat. The clear coat takes time to spray onto the vehicle and it is expensive. Therefore, there should be a charge for the time that it takes to mix and apply it and a charge for a cost of the material. The time should be added to refinish labor to accomplish both labor time and material charge. We will discuss how to determine the material charge later in another blog.


Today we are going to explain why you must add for clear coat and how to determine how must time to add. You may be thinking that most vehicles have clear coat; why don’t the guide include the time it takes to clear? This is because not all cars have clear coat, and you should not get paid for an operation that you did not perform. I think it is fair for technicians to get paid for everything that they do, but if we start charging for things that we don’t do is fraud and can lead to a lot of trouble. So if you’re going to add for clear or any other not included operations, make sure it needs it.


If you clear one panel, you will need to mix your clear, tack the surface that your spraying spray the clear on the panel and clean your spray gun. To add for clear coat you add 40% of the time given to paint the panel. If you spraying a panel with 3.0 hours, you would multiply 3.0 x 40% = 1.2. So to paint and clear this panel you have 3.0+1.2 = 4.2 Total Paint Time.


For each additional panel you will need to deduct for overlap then add 20% for clear coat. For example, if the adjacent panel gives 3.0 hours we will deduct .4 to give us 2.6. Now multiply 2.6 x 20% = .5. Add 2.6 + clear time of .5 top get a total of 3.1 paint time to paint and clear the adjacent panel. This same formula will apply to each additional panel. Deduct overlap and multiply by 20 %.

Let’s take a look of the example in the previous post.

                                             Body Labor   Paint Labor

Repair Hood Panel                 2.5                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                              .0
  Add For Clear Coat                                  1.2
  Adjusted  Paint Time w/ clear                   4.2

Repair Right Front Fender      2.0                3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                            -.4
  Adjusted Paint Time                                2.6
  Add For Clear Coat                                   .5
 Adjusted Paint Time w/ clear                 3.1

Repair Left Front Fender       1.0                 3.0
  Deduct for paint overlap                             -.4
  Adjusted Paint Time                                 2.6
  Add For Clear Coat                                 .5
  Adjusted Paint Time w/ clear                3.1

Total Labor           5.5            10.4

Paint times are given in the estimating guides as well. In the Mitchell estimating guides, the refinish labor time, R&I time, O/H time are usually right under the title of each part. The R&R time is usually listed with the part. All paint times are determined for painting one panel at a time. However, many times we paint more than one part at a time. For example, if a car was hit in the front it may damage the hood and both front fenders. Therefore, three parts would be painted at the same time. Would it take the same amount of time to do all three panels at the same time as apposed to pulling the car in and out of the booth three separate times? Of course it would save time. You would only mask once, mix paint once, spary the paint once, and clean your spray gun once. Therefore, we should deduct part of the time for each additional panel that we paint. The first major panel will not have any deduction for overlap. However, each additional adjacent panel, the estimator needs to deduct .4. If it is not an adjacent panel, the estimator will need to deduct .2. In the example above we have a hood and two fenders. Let’s say the guide gives 3.0 for each panel. With no decutions you would total 9.0 refinish hours. That would not be correct and adjustment would need to be made. Let’s figure this deducting refinish labor correctly. The first major panel is the hood, which give us 3.0 hours. The next adjacent panel is the fender, which gives us 3.0. Since this is an adjacent panel, we will deduct .4 giving us 2.6. The next adjacent panel is the other fender, which gives us 3.0. We will deduct .4 from that time as well giving us 2.6. Now your total paint time will be 3.0+2.6+2.6= 8.2. This is .8 less time that we will charge after deducting overlap. Remember that panels that are not adjacent to the panel your painting will only have .2 deducted per panel.


Here is an example of how this works on an estimate.

Body Labor   Paint Labor

Repair Hood Panel                 2.5                3.0
Deduct for paint overlap                              .0
Adjusted  Paint Time                                3.0

Repair Right Front Fender      2.0                3.0
Deduct for paint overlap                            -.4
Adjusted Paint Time                                 2.6

Repair Left Front Fender       1.0                 3.0
Deduct for paint overlap                             -.4
Adjusted Paint Time                                 2.6

Total Labor           5.5            8.2

• Raising the vehicle up to look underneath the vehicle
• Looking inside the passenger compartment, measuring to determine if any frame or unibody damage is present, determine the severity of the damage. 
• Visual inspect all body gaps for misalignment’s, popped loose spot welds, cracked seam sealer, etc. 

I have briefly mentioned the different types of damage in previous blog posts.  However, I would like to take some time to thoroughly discuss the different types of damage to look for when writing an auto repair estimate.  

The most obvious damage is going to be direct damage.  This is the point of impact, which is very easy to identify.  When repairing a vehicle, we have the first in last out rule.  The point of impact would be the “first in” location of the damage.  Therefore, this should be the last area to be repaired.  The reason you need to know this as an estimator, is because if there is direct damage, there may also be indirect damage.  This is the secondary damage, which is harder to identify.  This is the damages that is caused by energy transfer during the collision.  This may include buckles, popped spot welds, cracked seam sealer, and misaligned panel gaps.  On unibody vehicles, secondary damage can occur throughout the entire vehicle, which will require a thorough inspection.  There are actually five different damage zones during an accident. 

• Zone 1 is the direct damage as mentioned above, the point of impact. 
• Zone 2 is the indirect or secondary damage, which is cause from the force and direct damage.
• Zone 3 is the mechanical component damage.  I am sure that you’ve  heard the law “an object in motion tends to stay on motion”, well your mechanical components like your engine, transmission, drive train, can cause damage when in an accident.  If the engine is traveling at 5o mph and the vehicle comes to a sudden stop, the weight of the engine is still wanting to travel at 50 mph.  This can cause damage to motor mounts and other attachment points.  
• Zone 4 is the passenger compartment.  The same Newton law applies to people in the vehicle too.  Passenger can cause damage to seat belts, knee bolster panels and other interior parts.  This may also result in airbag deployment, which requires additional operations to repair the vehicle.
•   Zone 5 included exterior components and trim.  This is items that are attached to the vehicle.  This is additional items that can be damaged or create damage during an accident.  Another thing you may consider when inspecting the vehicle for damage are items in the vehicle.  Were there heavy items in the trunk space or in the passenger comportment?  A flying tool box can create damage to the vehicle.  These are some things to keep in mind when writing auto repair estimates.  Go through each zone in your head looking for damage to the vehicle.

Next we’ll discuss the predictable reaction a driver may have during an accident so check back soon.

Make and Model
Record the make and model of the vehicle.  Is it a coupe, sedan, etc.?  You will also want to record any packages that the vehicle is equipped with.


Decoding the VIN
The VIN stands for the Vehicle Identification Number. This number tells a lot about the vehicle. There are 17 characters in a VIN and each charter tells something about the vehicle. This will vary depending on the manufacture, but the first digit will let us know what country the vehicles was made in.  The 10th digit will always let us know the year model. To determine what all of the charters stand for you can look in the p-pages. This will help us decode the vehicle. If you’re using a computer system, it will probably decode the VIN for us. In CCC Pathways you must put the VIN to complete the estimate. Once the VIN is put into the computer correctly, CCC will decode the VIN for us. If you recorded the VIN wrong, you will not be able to proceed. So it is important to record it correctly. Writing it down correctly will also save you another trip to the car. Visit your p-pages to help you de-vin the VIN. A correct VIN will also help you when ordering parts to assure you are ordering the correct parts. Mis-odered parts is an ongoing issue, which delay repairs, increase recycle times, and may break a promise date of completion to the customer.


Why Record Mileage? 
Recording the mileage is easy to overlook when writing an estimate. However, it is important to get the mileage for several different reasons. The reason that I always like to record the mileage is for documentation. I have heard of customers claiming that their vehicle was drove around town using all of their gas. It may be necessary to test drive a vehicle before returning it to the customer, but with the mileage recorded before repairs were made will give you documentation of actual miles the car was drove while in the shop for repairs. Always document everything, as it may cover your tail at a later time.


Date of Estimate

You will also need to record the date the vehicle was estimated. Normally an estimate is only good for one month. With price changes, the estimate may become invalid with incorrect prices, which will need to be adjusted. Another reason it is important to recorded the date the estimate was written is because the condition of the vehicle can change. For example, when you wrote the estimate, the vehicle may have had surface rust. Several months later the rust may turn into a panel that needs to be replaced or additional labor to repair the damage.  


Prior Damage
Prior damage is damage that was present before the accident occurred. This is important to discover as insurance will not pay for prior damage. Prior damage may be on adjacent panels or it may be on the damaged panel that you are estimating. For example, if a vehicle has a small dent on the front of the right front fender with prior damage on the back of the right front fender, the insurance will not pay for the repair time for the damage to the rear of the fender. The damage will probably need to be repaired, but it will be at the cost of the customer, not the insurance companies.


Finding The Paint Code
Paint codes can be in various locations depending on make and model. The p-pages or your estimating system will usually give you the location of the paint code. You will need to know if the car has clear coat, tri-coats or quad coats. This will all change the cost of paint labor and paint material costs, which we will talk about later.

What about labor time not in the estimating guide or estimating system?
Not every operation is going to be included in the estimating guide. For instance, the labor time for all of the dent repair, plastic repair, frame repair, and many of the non-included operations in the p-pages are not in the guide. This is where experience steps in. When you have to determine the time it should take to repair a dent on a right front fender is called judgment times. Because you are the judge and make the call. Therefore, judgment times can vary greatly from shop to shop or estimator to estimator.


Different Labor Rates
We already discussed that shops are responsible to set their own labor rates in an earlier post.  Although, most shop charge different rates for the different types of operations they perform. For example, a shop may charge $45 for body labor, $45 for paint labor, $65 for frame and structural repair labor and $75 for mechanical labor. As an estimator it is important to determine what each operation is to assure that it is labeled correctly.  Many estimating guides have a “m” for mechanical operations and a “s” for structural operations. However, you must make sure that it is added into the correct category or you may not charge the different amounts. Therefore, if you are charging $45 for every operation, you’re shop and technicians are not making as much money as they should be making.  Small details like this can add you to a lot of additional income over a week or month time period. 

What Needs To Be On An Auto Estimate?
There are many different styles of estimate forms, but they all help you record the necessary information. All auto repair estimates will need to have your company information on it. It should also specify who the auto body estimator is and the estimators contact information. It will need all of the customers information: including their name, address, phone numbers, or any other contact information. I even like to get their e-mail address. The more contact information that you receive from the customer up front, the easier it will be to follow up or update the customer at a later time. 


One Thing To Avoid
The last thing you want is to be hung-up needing to speak to the owner before you can continue the repairs; only to discover that you can not get in touch with them. Perhaps they go on vacation and the only contact information that estimator recorded was their home phone number.   You will not have a happy customer when they return expecting their vehicles to be ready.  


Vehicle Information
You will also need the vehicle information. The make, model, and style. Be certain to record the VIN number. This may be used to determine the correct parts to order and many other uses. The VIN can actually tell you quite a lot about the vehicle. Record the mileage, license plate number and the date. This is all important information to have for future purposes.


Insurance Information
Most accidents are going to be a insurance claim so be sure to get all of the insurance information. Insurance name, contact information, loss date and type of loss. 


Now Your Ready To Start Analyzing The Damage
Now you can get to the damage. Remember to follow the sequence of the estimating guide. If the accident is in the front, work from the front towards the back.


Get Information About The Accident
Before you start writing the damage find out as much information as you can about the accident from the customer. The customer or whoever was in the accident is the best resource to get the information that you need to write a good estimate. A few of the questions that you may ask include are: how many passengers were in the vehicle? You may need to examine the seat belt where a passenger was sitting. How fast were you traveling? Or, was the vehicle parked? What direction was each vehicle traveling upon impact? All of this information will help you have a better understanding of the accident and will help you write a better estimate.


A Communication Tool
Think of the estimate as a communication tool that will show the big picture. The more information you have on it the clearer the big picture will look. The more customer, vehicle, insurance and facts about the accident you collect, the better communications you will have throughout the entire process. A little extra work on the front side will save you a lot of time and headaches.

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What Do Insurance and the IRS Have In Common
Insurance companies are a lot like the IRS.  There are many things that the insurance companies are willing to pay for just like the IRS has many tax saving benefits for businesses.  However, if don’t ask for it, neither one of them will offer to give it to you.  I am not saying that the insurance companies will pay you for everything you ask for, but it is certain you will not get paid for the operation if you don’t ask for it. There may be as much not included time on a part as the time given to R&R it.  Let’s take a look at an example.

The P-Pages
If you google Motor Guide to Estimating, you will see the p-pages for CCC Pathways.  There, you can see the included and not included items for each operation.  If you look up a front fender you will see this listed:

Included Operations Include

• Align to vehicle
• Fillers (if mounted to fender)
• Cornering lamps (if mounted to fender)
• Fender liner
• Scoop
• Side marker
• Side repeater lamp

Non-Included Operations Include

• Antenna
• Bumper R&I
• Battery
• Emblems & nameplates
• Grille
• Header panel
• Hood Inner panels
• Lamp aiming
• Mirror
• Moldings
• Mud guard
• Road wheel
• Spoilers & flares
• Stripe tape, decals or overlays

Ask Yourself
If you are a new estimator, you need to get this list out and go over it for every part that you are replace.  Ask yourself if any of the not included item are required to perform in the specific job that you are estimating.  For instance, on the fender above ask: Will I have to R&I an antenna?  If the fender has an antenna add time for it on the estimate.  If not, don’t add it.  Next, ask yourself if you will need to R&I bumper to replace the fender.  If you will, add the time.  If not, don’t add any time for it.  Go through each item on the non-included list and ask if this task will be required.  

Increase Shop Profits

Now you can see the amount of money that you may leave unclaimed on each panel.  Many of the non-included items will need to be performed on each fender you replace.  Of course, you would only add what applies.  You would not want to add time to R&I hood, if you do not need to remove the hood to R&R the fender.  Look over the list on each panel that you estimate and add what applies to the estimate.  If a fender pays 3.0 hours, you may be able to add an extra .5 to 1.5 or more hours of non-included operations.  This will lead to major profit for the company and technician at the end of a day.  Who know how much .2 or .3 for every emblem you replace may add up to at the end of one year.  

Tell A Story
The key is to list each item separately.  You need to tell a story with your estimate and it needs to be easy to understand. If you try to bulk or clump items together, chances are the insurance adjuster may refuse to pay. 

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The Estimating Guide

Once we have all of the information needed from the vehicle we can take the estimate into the estimating office or area where we can complete and total the auto estimate. The estimating guide will provide a list of the parts with diagrams, the price of the parts, the flat rate labor to replace the parts (judgment time is not-included in the estimating guides, we’ll discuss judgment time later) and the refinish flat rate to paint the parts if needed.

Parts and Abbreviations

It is very important to know the nomenclature of the parts and the abbreviations of the parts. You must also realize that parts may be called different things. A door outer repair panel may be how the guide describes what we know in body shop jargon, door skin. However, it is going to make it difficult to find the right parts if you do not have a clue what they are called. A couple of abbreviations that I am going to mention are R&I,which stands for remove and install. This is when you remove a part and put the same part back on. For example, there may not be any damage to a door, but it may have to be removed to gain access to the damaged area. Therefore, you will not have to remove the trim panel, glass, door handle, etc. This will be less flat rate than to replace the door.. If you replace the door that is called R&R, which stands for remove and replace. Now you will have to transfer all of the hardware from the old door to the new door, which is going to take more time. Many times on front bumper covers and other assemblies they have an O/H, which stands for overhaul. This basically gives you time to take the assembly completely apart and to put it back together.

P-Pages

Look at your P-Pages and to learn all of the abbreviations. This is something that will help you. You don’t just want you to memorize what they stand for, but you want to understand what each abbreviation includes or does not include in the tasks.

Think About Walmart When Writing Estimates

What is included and what is not included in each operation? This is something that you need to ask yourself every time you add a line to your estimate. This is where most mistakes are made when writing an estimate, which results in dollars lost for the shop. There are tons of non-included operations that go unclaimed on most estimates. Many times the estimator claims they do not put it on the estimate because the insurance company will not pay for it. There is some truth behind this, but it is usually because they did not write it on the estimate correctly. You must itemize each procedure if you plan to get paid for it. It is like going to Walmart. Have you ever went to Walmart and gathered a bunch of items in your cart, then went to check out; then they give you the amount, which almost gives you a heart attack? Well, lets take this one step further, what if they gave you receipt with just the total amount on it? You would probably claim that they made a mistake. However, when you get the itemized receipt, you look it over and realize all of the prices are correct. It just added up to more than you thought it would. I don’t know if this has ever happened to you, but it happens to me all of the time. Insurance adjusters are the same way. If it is not crystal clear what you are charging for, they want to claim that it is not right and they do not want to pay that amount…I sure wish I could do that at the store! However, if you have every item listed separate and not bulged together, they can see that your charges are legitimate. So to determine what non included operations you can add to your estimate look in your p-pages. This will list everything that is included and everything that is not included. I recommend that you take some time and study the p-pages and know them by heart.

What Is an Estimate

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Auto Repair Estimates are called different things including, damage report, damage estimate, auto estimate or several other names, but they are all the basically the same thing. However, a damage estimate is more than just a sheet of paper listing the total cost of repair on it. An estimate is a contract or an agreement between two people. Just like with real estate, the owner and buyer must agree on a price and sign a contract of their agreement. A damage estimate is the same way in many ways, as there should be an agreement between the shop and customer and the customer should sign the agreement to authorize the shop to repair the vehicle. One thing that you need to explain to the customer, which is misunderstood many times, is that the total amount is just an estimate. Auto repair estimates do not guarantee the exact amount of the final invoice. There may be hidden damage or many other factors that may change before the car is completed. As an estimator, it’s your job to have excellent communications with the customer. You need to let them know that an estimate is subject to hidden damage. You must also understand that the estimate or signed agreement is only good for items that are written on the estimate. If any additional work is needed, you will need to contact the customer and agree on the new amount. This is called a supplement, which may include additional parts or labor as needed.

Methods Used To Write Estimates
We used to write all auto repair estimates by hand using Mitchell Estimate Guides. This involved writing all of the damage on an estimate and looking in the estimating guide to get all of the parts prices, and labor needed to estimate the job. Computer generated estimates have simplified and taken over the hand written estimates, but when learning how to estimate, I believe it to be crucial to learn all of the basics first, which requires estimating guides, a blank estimate and a pen. Learning to hand write estimates in the foundation of becoming an effective estimator. Just like every house or building must have a strong foundation, an estimator must master the basics first.

The Sequence of an Estimate
Most estimating guides and computer systems are set up with the same sequence. Starting with the front bumper cover and ending with the back bumper. This is important to know as you want to write the estimate in the same order to write a clean sheet. For example, if you are writing an estimate on a car that has damage in the front end, start with the front bumper and move towards the back of the car one part at a time. Bumper cover, front grill, right front fender, etc. Now when you use the guide it will be easy to follow along adding the prices and labor times.

Who Needs Estimators?
Every shop will need someone to write estimates for the customers. Some shops may have more than one estimator. Insurance needs the assistance of estimators as well. When you work for an insurance company writing auto repair estimates your title may be auto estimator or auto appraiser. Visit Donnie-Smith.com for more automotive training. Here is a video explaining the career pathway for an insurance estimator.