Ravelry let me down on pattern options so I got to work figuring out my own, tweaking some ideas I’d come across in my search. That led to the Whimsical and Magical Knit Crown pattern you can find here!

Knitting this magical crown for your little one is a great way to spend an evening in front of the television. I knit two of these over the course of two evenings, each one taking just about 2 and a half hours from cast on to cast off. Because the crown is such a fast knit, it would be great for a present, too!

You can purchase the digital pattern for this crown on my Etsy shop by clicking the button below. The pattern is just $1.99!

Purchase Magical Crown Pattern here!

Whimsical & Magic Crown Pattern Information + FAQ

Inside this pattern, you’ll find information about yarn choice, what needles to use, plus all the essential information about creating the actual crown. Curious what the finished crown will look like? Check out the photos below. Then read through some of the most common questions I receive about this pattern.

What yarn should I use?

The pattern calls for a medium weight yarn – either worsted or aran. This is one of the most easy to find yarns as well as one of the easiest to knit with. All yarns have what’s called a “category weight”. Specifically, this refers to the yarn’s thickness level.

Different yarn thicknesses create different results. In this pattern, the crown’s lace pattern shows up well because the yarn isn’t too thick, but it’s thick enough to be durable for play and frequent wear. A thinner yarn might be too delicate as a toy or costume accessory that sees a lot of action.

The yarn I recommend to use is Big Twist “Living”, in Fun Brights. Any of the colorways in that yarn would be so fun with this pattern, though.

This yarn is available at most big box yarn stores, like Joann Fabrics. It’s also a very affordable option for beginners. You need 1 skein of yarn if you choose this yarn. If you choose a different medium weight yarn, please keep in mind you’ll need 40-50 yards.

Information about category weight and yardage of yarn is all contained on the yarn label. Get more information about how to read a yarn label right here.

What size needles should I use?

Knitting needles come in many different sizes. Similar to the yarn category weight, different needle sizes will create a different effect. Some needles are very small and thin. Others are very thick.

The size of the needle – it’s thickness – is usually paired to the category weight of the yarn. Accordingly, since this pattern calls for a medium weight yarn, the recommended needle size is also medium!

The recommended needle size is a US 8 (5 mm). Most big box craft stores sell affordable knitting needles, or you can head to your local yarn shop.

One thing to note about knitting needles: they come in 3 types.

This particular pattern calls for a circular needle, because the crown is knit in the round – meaning the first and last stitches are connected together to create one, endless loop.

For this pattern, you could also choose what’s called a double pointed needle – this is a set of 6-8 needles (all the same length) that can be used to knit in the round as well.

I don’t know how to knit or purl. Should I try this pattern?

In a word: yes!

This pattern is pretty simple and easy to figure out, even if you’re a beginner knitter! You don’t need to know how to knit already in order to use this pattern. You’ll learn to knit by creating the crown! And, in my opinion, the best way to learn something is by doing.

If you’re stumped, you can visit my YouTube Channel, where I have tons of tutorials on learning how to knit.

What happens if I get stuck or make a mistake?

There are no mistakes in knitting! Every “mistake” is an opportunity to uncover what happened, learn more about the structure of stitches, and adjust going forward.

If you’re on Ravelry, though, you can join my private group and get pattern support.

That and you’ll also want a place to show off your crown when you’re finished! We’re cheering you on to that finish line

What if I don’t understand the pattern when I open it?

I wont sugar coat this: when you’re beginning to read a pattern, it’s going to look strange to you. Like with anything new you try, it takes a bit of time until it becomes familiar.

Go slowly. And, use the link to join the private Ravelry Group so you can get help if you need it.

What if I’m too nervous to even get started?! I’m afraid I’ll mess it up.

Getting started is half the battle! Starting a knitting project begins with a slip knot and a cast on. All you have to do is follow the instructions. Trust me, it’s easier than it may seem!

Think of it this way: you want to become a knitter, right? In order to do that… you have to knit. This pattern gives you the best opportunity to do that, because it’s thorough and easy to follow. Plus, you have me behind you, supporting you and cheering you on.

If you have any other questions about the pattern, you can reach out to me at anytime on INSTAGRAM. Send me a DM and we’ll talk it through. Not on Instagram? No worries. Use the CONTACT FORM ON THE SITE.

How to get the Whimsical & Magical Knit Crown pattern:

It’s really simple to get your hands on the pattern. Head to my Etsy shop and use the listing there to purchase it. It’s just $1.99!

Purchase Magical Crown Pattern here!

There are a lot of different ways you can cast on yarn, ranging from beginner to advanced. In this knitting tutorial, you’ll learn 2 very simple techniques for casting on stitches. These are perfect for new knitters, because they’re the basic cast ons that you’ll find in projects like a scarf, hat, pouch or similar.

All knitting projects start here – you need stitches to knit, and you need them on a set of needles! Once you’ve mastered these 2 cast-on techniques, you’ll have an easy way to start any project. These 2 methods are perfect for pretty much any type of yarn, and any needle size, too.

Pro-tip: don’t get discouraged! Casting on can feel intimidating, but with a little practice, you’ll get it down. I’ve got a video tutorial for each method below to help you build that confidence!

Cast-On First Step: the Slip Knot

Believe it or not, before you can begin casting on anything, you’ll need to put a slip knot on either the right or left needle (depending on the type of cast on you’re doing).

A slip knot is pretty simple! The video below will walk you through.

Here are the steps to create a slip knot if you prefer to read instructions: 

Step 1: Pull out about 5-6″ of yarn for your tail from the ball of yarn you’ll be using in your project.

Step 2: Hold the tail in your left hand at the point where you’ll make the slip knot (leaving the 5-6″ of yarn dangling down). With your right hand, wrap the yarn connected to the ball you’re using two times around your pointer and middle fingers. You’ll have 2 loops facing you on your fingers, and 1 loop facing the ball of yarn.

Step 3: Pull out the loop that’s facing the ball of yarn, and push the yarn connected to the ball through that loop.

Step 4: Remove your point and middle fingers. Hold the knot you’ve created and tug the tail to tighten it.

Step 5: Place the tightened slip knot on the needles you’re using for your project, and pull the tail and working yarn (the yarn end connected to the ball of yarn you’re using) away from each other to shrink the size of the loop so it fits on your needle.

And that’s how to create a slip knot! Once you know how to do that, you can move on to the 2 methods below.

Cast-On Method #1: Long-Tail Cast-On

This method of casting on looks complicated at first, but is actually fairly simple once you get into the rhythm of it. It will require you to estimate how much yarn you think you’ll need for the total number of stitches being cast on, because you will pull out a tail (hence the name) – aka, a length of yarn – that should be long enough to complete the cast on. Something unique about this cast on is it’s a slingshot method – because you end up creating a bit of a slingshot shape with the yarn on your left hand, using the right hand needle to grab the yarn and pull it through the slingshot.

Here’s how to work the long-tail cast on method:

1 – Place a slip knot on your needle, leaving a very long tail (hence the name). This method uses both the tail and the working yarn to create stitches so you need a long tail to accommodate for the number of stitches you will need. A good rule of thumb for estimating is to pull out about an inch of yarn per stitch.

2 – Hold your needle in your right hand. With your left hand, use your first finger and thumb to split apart the tail and working yarn, creating a V shape. You’ll drape the 2 strands over your fingers – one of your first finger and one over your thumb. Use the rest of the fingers on your left hand to secure the strands and then pull them taught. This should create a diamond shape as you spread your thumb and first finger away from each other.

3 – Turn your left hand so your thumb is pointing up and your first finger is pointing out. This creates somewhat of a triangle shape with the yarn. Insert the needle under the top strand around your thumb.

4 – Turn your left hand so it’s somewhat flat again, which twists the yarn. Bring your needle up over your thumb and insert the needle inside the loop created around your first finger (basically putting it under the top strand on your first finger).

5 – Then turn your left hand once more so your thumb moves up and this will take the loop on your thumb over your needle. This creates a stitch on the needle. Take your thumb out of the loop and then reposition your fingers once more and pull the strands away from each other to tighten the stitch.

Repeat for as many stitches as you need.

You can use this method with straight or circular needles. It’s really nice because it does create a bit of a stretchy edge, yet also a firm edge so there’s still structure to the foundation row. Cast-on stitches from a long tail are also very easy to see in terms of the right and wrong side, because you’ll immediately be able to see the purl bump on the back and the beginning of the V shape for the knitted stitch that forms the front of your work.

Cast-On Method #2: Knitted Cast-On

Unlike the long tail cast on, you don’t need to estimate how much yarn you’ll need when using these technique. You’ll cast on directly off the working yarn, once you’ve put your slip knot on the needle. Like the long-tail, you can use this cast-on technique with straight or circular needles, and with any type of yarn.

Here’s how to work the knitted cast on technique:

Step 1: Insert the right needle into the slip knot, as if to knit. This means you put the right needle behind the left needle, so the needles make an X.

Step 2: Wrap the yarn attached to the ball you’re using (your working yarn) around the right needle from behind.

Step 3: Pull the right needle down and in front of the left needle, keeping the yarn you just wrapped on it. You’ll basically catch the yarn you wrapped around the needle on the tip as you move it from the back to the front. You’ll still have an X shape.

Step 4: Instead of removing the slip knot off the left needle like you would if you were knitting, you’ll actually use the right needle to pull out the loop you’ve just made so it’s a little bigger. You’ll push the strands of the loop away from each other so they open up. You’ll insert the left needle into this loop and remove the right needle.

Step 5: Tighten the loop you’ve just made and placed on your left needle by tugging on the working yarn. This is a new stitch you’ve just casted on!

Step 6: You’ll repeat steps 1-5 until you’ve added the number of stitches to your left needle that the pattern calls for. Each time you go back to step 1, you’ll insert the needle into the new loop you just added.

Fun fact: knitting is only 2 stitch types – the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Mastering these 2 stitch types – which you’ll learn in this slouchy hat pattern – puts you on your way to advancing your skills!

Knitting a hat is the perfect choice for a beginner knitter who wants to experience a little bit of challenge from the start, while creating something useful and fun. This slouchy hat pattern will accomplish those things.

This slouchy hat pattern will teach you the following:

• How to work the knit stitch (includes video tutorial)
• How to work the purl stitch (includes video tutorial)
• What rib stitch is, and how to create it
• How to combine knits and purls to create interesting stitch patterns. In this case, you’ll create an “upside down triangle” stitch pattern
• How to flat seam sides of a knitted piece together (this hat is knit “flat”, so you’ll seam the sides together at the end to close it up into an actual hat!)
• Explanations around some of the most common roadblocks for beginner knitters like yarn choice, gauge, casting on, casting off and weaving in ends
• An optional extra tutorial about how to create and attach a pom pom to your hat

Beginner Slouchy Hat Info + FAQ

Inside this free pattern, you’ll find information about yarn choice, what needles to use, plus all the essential information about creating the actual pattern. Curious what the finished scarf will look like? Check out the photos below. Then read through some of the most common questions I receive about this pattern.

What yarn should I use?

The pattern calls for a “super bulky” yarn. That means it’s a very thick yarn. All yarns have what’s called a “category weight”. Specifically, this refers to the yarn’s thickness level.

Different yarn thicknesses create different results. In this pattern, the scarf is cozy because the yarn is super bulky. A thinner yarn would create a more lightweight scarf.

The yarn I recommend to use is Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick, in Raisin.

This yarn is available at most big box yarn stores, like Joann Fabrics. It’s also a very affordable option for beginners. You need 1 skein of yarn if you choose this yarn. If you choose a different super bulky yarn, please keep in mind you’ll need 106 yards. This is enough to knit the hat, and have extra leftover for a pom pom.

Information about category weight and yardage of yarn is all contained on the yarn label. Get more information about how to read a yarn label right here.

What size needles should I use?

Knitting needles come in many different sizes. Similar to the yarn category weight, different needle sizes will create a different effect. Some needles are very small and thin. Others are very thick.

The size of the needle – it’s thickness – is usually paired to the category weight of the yarn. Accordingly, since this pattern calls for a super bulky yarn, the recommended needle size is also bulky!

The recommended needle size is a US 13. View an affordable US 13 knitting needle set at Joann Fabrics hereUS 13 knitting needle set at Joann Fabrics here.

One thing to note about knitting needles: they come in 3 types.

You’ll notice in the link above, I recommend a type that has a cable connecting the needles. This is called a circular. This is my preferred type of knitting needle. I like these for beginners because the cable will hold your stitches for you, making it less likely that you’ll drop stitches.

You could also choose straight needles, if you prefer. These are needles that look like sticks, and are not connected by a cable. View a US 13 size straight needle here.View a US 13 size straight needle here.

I don’t know how to knit or purl. Should I try this pattern?

In a word: yes!

This pattern has been specifically designed for you as a beginner knitter.

There are included tutorials teaching you how to work the knit and purl stitches. You’ll also learn how to use knits and purls to create 2 very interesting stitch patterns: rib (which you’ve seen already on knitted garments, likely on a sleeve cuff) and upside down triangle.

Knitting is combinations of these 2 stitch types (knit and purl) in different ways. Or sometimes just on their own. But if you’re someone who enjoys being mentally stimulated and challenged, you’ll like this pattern because it skips over the basic stitch patterns a beginner usually starts with (garter stitch – knit all stitches; stockinette – knit 1 row, purl the next row) and goes into slightly more interesting ones.

Bonus: You don’t need to know how to knit already in order to use this pattern. You’ll learn to knit by creating the hat! And, in my opinion, the best way to learn something is by doing.

What happens if I get stuck or make a mistake?

There are no mistakes in knitting! Every “mistake” is an opportunity to uncover what happened, learn more about the structure of stitches, and adjust going forward.

In the pattern, you’ll find a link to a private Facebook community for Charmingly Modern Beginner Knitters. You can get help with your project inside this group. The goal is to build your confidence with this hat pattern, and show you you can become a knitter. Getting stuck just means you need to ask for help to get unstuck. That’s why the group exists.

That and you’ll also want a place to show off your hat when you’re finished! We’re cheering you on to that finish line

What if I don’t understand the pattern when I open it?

I wont sugar coat this: when you’re beginning to read a pattern, it’s going to look strange to you. Like with anything new you try, it takes a bit of time until it becomes familiar.

Luckily, this pattern is very simple and straightforward. It’s structured like a knitting pattern would be. But contains a lot of extra information to help you get used to reading a pattern.

Give yourself time and patience. Go slowly. And, use the link to join the private Facebook Group so you can get help if you need it.

What if I’m too nervous to even get started?! I’m afraid I’ll mess it up.

Getting started is half the battle! Starting a knitting project begins with a slip knot and a cast on. There are instructions with video tutorials on how to do both of those in the pattern.

Plus, since I’ve created this knitting pattern with you in mind, there are places along the way where you’re instructed to pause and observe your work. Which means you won’t get too far into the project without periodically checking in with yourself and your project.

Think of it this way: you want to become a knitter, right? In order to do that… you have to knit. This pattern gives you the best opportunity to do that, because it’s thorough and easy to follow. Plus, you have me behind you, supporting you and cheering you on.

If you have any other questions about the pattern, you can reach out to me at anytime on INSTAGRAM. Send me a DM and we’ll talk it through. Not on Instagram? No worries. Use the CONTACT FORM ON THE SITE.

How to download the Free Slouchy Hat Pattern

It’s really simple to get your hands on the pattern. Just use the form below and it will automatically be sent to your inbox:

Fun fact: knitting is only 2 stitch types – the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Mastering these 2 stitch types – which you’ll learn in this beginner project pouch pattern – puts you on your way to advancing your skills!

This is an original pattern, created by me, with the sole purpose of showing you how to knit. The simple bag you create will boost your confidence so much! It’s the perfect size to take your knitting projects along with you, or simply store them when you aren’t working on them. Or, you could think of it like a knit handbag and use it as a clutch purse. It’s up to you!

This pouch pattern will teach you the following:

• How to work the knit stitch (includes video tutorial)
• How to work the purl stitch (includes video tutorial)
• What garter stitch is and how to create it
• What stockinette stitch (sometimes called stocking stitch) is and how to create it
• How to begin mentally tracking your work with row trackers built into the pattern, plus strategies to build this skill long term
• Explanations around some of the most common roadblocks for beginner knitters like yarn choice, gauge, casting on, casting off and weaving in ends
• How to attach buttons to your finished knitting project

Simple Project Pouch Pattern Info + FAQ

Inside this free pattern, you’ll find information about yarn choice, what needles to use, plus all the essential information about creating the actual pouch. Curious what the finished project will look like? Check out the photos below. Then read through some of the most common questions I receive about this small pouch.

What yarn should I use?

The pattern calls for a “super bulky” yarn. That means it’s a very thick yarn. All yarns have what’s called a “category weight”. Specifically, this refers to the yarn’s thickness level. This particular pattern calls for a bulky weight yarn.

Different yarn thicknesses create different results. In this pattern, the scarf is cozy because the yarn is super bulky. A thinner yarn would create a more lightweight scarf.

The yarn I recommend to use is Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick, in Deep Lagoon.

This yarn is available at most big box yarn stores, like Joann Fabrics. It’s also a very affordable option for beginners. You need 1 skein of yarn if you choose this yarn. If you choose a different super bulky yarn, please keep in mind you’ll need about 107-120 yards of yarn.

Information about category weight and yardage of yarn is all contained on the yarn label. Get more information about how to read a yarn label right here.

What size needles should I use?

Knitting needles come in many different sizes. Similar to the yarn category weight, different needle sizes will create a different effect. Some needles are very small and thin. Others are very thick.

The size of the needle – it’s thickness – is usually paired to the category weight of the yarn. Accordingly, since this pattern calls for a super bulky yarn, the recommended needle size is also bulky!

The recommended needle size is a US 13. View an affordable US 13 knitting needle set at Joann Fabrics here.

One thing to note about knitting needles: they come in 3 types.

You’ll notice in the link above, I recommend a type that has a cable connecting the needles. These are called circular needles. Circulars are my preferred type of knitting needle. I like these for beginners because the cable will hold your stitches for you, making it less likely that you’ll drop stitches (aka, they fall off the needle and unravel).

You could also choose straight needles, if you prefer. These are needles that look like sticks, and are not connected by a cable. View a US 13 size straight needle here.View a US 13 size straight needle here.

I don’t know how to knit or purl. Should I try this pattern?

In a word: yes!

This pattern has been specifically designed for you as a beginner knitter.

There are included tutorials teaching you how to work the knit and purl stitches. You’ll also learn how to use knits and purls to create the 2 most common stitch patterns: garter stitch (all knits) and stockinette (alternating rows of knits and purls).

You don’t need to know how to knit already in order to use this pattern. You’ll learn to knit by creating the project pouch! And, in my opinion, the best way to learn something is by doing.

What happens if I get stuck or make a mistake?

There are no mistakes in knitting! Every “mistake” is an opportunity to uncover what happened, learn more about the structure of stitches, and adjust going forward. Don’t put pressure on yourself to be “perfect.” This is about having fun, and learning a new skill.

In the pattern, you’ll find a link to a private Facebook community for Charmingly Modern Beginner Knitters. You can get help with your project inside this group. The goal is to build your confidence with this scarf pattern, and show you you can become a knitter.

Getting stuck just means you need to ask for help to get unstuck. That’s why the group exists.

That and you’ll also want a place to show off your pouch when you’re finished! We’re cheering you on to that finish line

What if I don’t understand the pattern when I open it?

I wont sugar coat this: when you’re beginning to read a knitting pattern, it’s going to look strange to you. Like with anything new you try, it takes a bit of time until it becomes familiar.

Luckily, this pattern is very simple and straightforward. It’s structured like a knitting pattern would be. But contains a lot of extra information to help you get used to reading a pattern.

Give yourself time and patience. Go slowly. And, use the link to join the private Facebook Group so you can get help if you need it.

What if I’m too nervous to even get started?! I’m afraid I’ll mess it up.

Getting started is half the battle! Starting a knitting project begins with a slip knot and a cast on. There are instructions with video tutorials on how to do both of those in the pattern.

Plus, since I’ve created this knitting pattern with you in mind, there are places along the way where you’re instructed to pause and observe your work. Which means you won’t get too far into the project without periodically checking in with yourself and your project.

Think of it this way: you want to become a knitter, right? In order to do that… you have to knit. This free knitting pattern gives you the best opportunity to do that, because it’s thorough and easy to follow. Plus, you have me behind you, supporting you and cheering you on.

If you have any other questions about the pattern, you can reach out to me at anytime on INSTAGRAM. Send me a DM and we’ll talk it through.

How to download the Simple Beginner Project Pouch Pattern

It’s really easy to get your hands on the pattern. Just use the form below to enter your email address and it will automatically be sent to your inbox:

“There’s gotta be a catch,” I can hear you thinking… of course, you’re right. Here’s the catch: while knitting is only 2 stitch types, there are tons of stitch patterns in knitting.

Stitch patterns, like stockinette stitch, garter stitch, seed stitch, are different combinations of the two most basic stitches (a knit and a purl). Using stitch patterns in knitting is what makes your finished object look interesting.

So when you say you want to learn to knit… what you actually want to know how to do is use those stitch patterns to create something cool.

Which means: knowing how to recognize what knit and purl stitches look like is the first step toward learning how to recognize different stitch patterns in knitting.

The best way to learn the difference between a knit and purl is to understand how they’re created in the first place!

The main difference between knit and purl is as easy as understanding front and back.

Here’s what I mean…

If you’ve ever read through a knitting pattern, you’ve probably noticed terms like “wrong side”, and “right side.” Or seen an abbreviation like RS or WS.

The right side of the knitted fabric you’re creating is usually the side that shows the knit stitch. This is also sometimes called the front side of the fabric.

When you’re looking at the front of your work, you’ll notice all the stitches look like a V.

A knit stitch creates this series of Vs. As you knit, those Vs will stack up with each new row you create.

The wrong side, also called the back of the fabric, is where the purl side lives.

Because knitting is only 2 stitches – a knit and purl – this means whether you’re knitting or purling, you’re always creating both a knit and a purl. Sound confusing?! Hang with me.

Are there exceptions to this? Yes! Some stitch patterns use knits and purls together to create a specific look on the right side of the fabric. Sometimes a designer wants the purl side to actually be the right side, and the knit is the wrong side (this is often the case with cabling).

In the photo above, you’ll notice the purl stitch is actually on the “right side” of the scarf. But so is the knit stitch.

With that said, just because there are exceptions doesn’t mean that as a general rule of thumb knits on the front and purls on the back isn’t accurate.

The most important thing to understand about knits versus purls is the knit stitch looks like a V, and usually indicates the right side or the front of the work. The purl looks like 2 interlocking bumps, and usually indicates the wrong side or the back of the work. 

Recognize a Knit by Learning How to Create a Knit Stitch

The best way to sort through this is to give it a go. Getting into the rhythm of knitting will help you see the Vs that indicate a knit stitch.

Before you can knit, you’ll need to first cast on some yarn. Not sure how? Check out this video.

Here’s how to knit:

Step 1: Insert the right needle into the loop on the left needle, at the back of the loop. The right needle will be behind the left needle, forming an X.

Step 2: Wrap the working yarn (the yarn connected to the ball you’re using) around the right hand needle, from behind.

Step 3: Next, hop the lefthand needle over the righthand needle. Or, you can bring the right hand needle under and in front of the left hand needle. However you choose to do it, the right needle should now be in front of the left. The needles still form an X. The yarn you wrapped around the needle in Step 2 should still be on the right needle.

Step 4: Drop the left needle out of the X. The yarn that was on the left needle is now “caught” on the right needle. You’ve knitted a stitch! You’ll have 1 stitch on your right needle now.

Step 5: Repeat steps 1-4 until you’ve knitted all the stitches on your left needle, and they’ve been transferred to the the right needle.

Recognize a Purl by Learning How to Create a Purl Stitch

A purl is a backwards knit stitch. You work it the opposite of a knit stitch, by starting out with your working needle (the right hand needle) by placing the tip of it in front of the stitch. Follow these steps to purl –

Step 1: Insert the right needle in front of the left needle, into the loop on the left needle. Your needles should form an X, with the right needle in front of the left needle.

Step 2: Wrap the working yarn (the yarn connected to the ball you’re using) around the right needle, on top of the needle.

Step 3: Bring the left needle in front of the right needle. You can either hop it over, or bring the right needle under the left. However you do this, your needles will still form an X. The right needle will now be behind the left.

Step 4: Remove the left needle from the stitch. This may have naturally happened as you moved the left needle in front of the right one in Step 3. That’s okay! You’ve now transferred the stitch to your right needle. You just purled a stitch!

As you repeat this with each stitch, you’ll see you’re creating that purl look, aka, a horizontal bump. Purl stitches look like sideways groups of interlocked loops of yarn. These “loops” you’re seeing are the loops that come off the lefthand needle!

Take a closer look at your knit and purl stitches

Since we’ve talked about how the knit side of your work is the “right side,” and the purl side is the “wrong side,” … but we’ve also said that a knit is the back of a purl, and a purl is the back of a knit – it may feel very confusing when it comes to actually reading your knitting.

Sometimes it’s helpful to knit and purl a few rows, then pickup your knitting and stretch it out a little.

Start by first stretching out the knit side of the fabric. Notice how the Vs are actually small loops that are wrapped around bars of yarn. You’ll note that these bars are the horizontal bumps on the purl side.

Now, turn your work so you’re looking at the purl side of the fabric and repeat the stretching. Now you can see why the purl side has such an interesting texture to it – because it’s the bar that’s holding together the loops of the V stitch.

A purl bump is like interlocking blocks. When you look at the purl side, two of those interlocking blocks are one stitch. When you look at the knit side, one V is one stitch.

Types of Stitch Patterns Using Knits and Purls

The last key piece to understanding a knit and purl stitch is knowing how these combine together to create the stitch patterns mentioned earlier.

If you’ve never read a stitch pattern before, you should know 2 very important abbreviations: a knit stitch will be denoted with a K, and a purl stitch will be denoted with a P.

In the pattern, you may see something written like K2 P3. This means knit 2 stitches, then purl 3 stitches. If you see something written like this: [K2 P3]* then that means you should knit 2 and purl 3 stitches until you reach the end of the row and there are no more stitches left to work. The asterisk usually indicates a repeat.

Here are a few common stitch patterns and how they use knits and purls to create unique fabrics:

Stockinette Stitch: This creates a knitted fabric you’re probably most familiar with seeing – where the front side (or “right” side) is all knitted stitches, and the back is all purls. To knit stockinette, you simple knit every stitch on the right side, and purl every stitch on the wrong side. Stockinette tends to create a very durable fabric, but it isn’t reversible unless the pattern you’re working with wants the purl side as the front of the fabric.

Garter Stitch: This is the best stitch pattern for beginner knitters, because you knit every single stitch whether it’s the “right” or “wrong” side of the fabric. Garter stitch creates a bumpy, ridged fabric that can be interesting for scarves or edges on things like sweaters. It’s considered reversible, and tends to be pretty durable and sturdy.

Seed Stitch: this stitch pattern creates a reversible fabric with little bumps that look like stitches. It’s knit over an uneven number of stitches, like: [K1 P1]* K1. So this means, you knit 1 then purl 1 and repeat that pattern until you get to the last stitch at the end of the row, then you knit that stitch. You’ll turn the work and repeat that same pattern, which means you’ll be knitting purls, and purling knits.

Moss Stitch: This is basically an elongated version of seed stitch that’s created over a four row repeat. Here’s how you knit it: Rows 1 and 4: K1, * p1, k1; rep from * to end of row. Rows 2 and 3: P1,* k1, p1; rep from * to end of row. You repeat these 4 rows over and over to create moss stitch.

Rib Patterns: Rib patterns are typically created over an even number of stitches, and are very stretchy. They’re ideal for cuffs, scarves and hats. You can do an even rib, which is an equal number of paired knits and purls – for example, a 2×2 rib means you knit 2 stitches, then purl 2 stitches and repeat. There are also uneven ribs, like a 3×1 (knit 3, purl 1) which create interesting looks.

I hope this helps you better understand the difference between a knit and a purl – and that you feel a little more confident now when looking at your knitting! You’re well on your way to reading your knitting like a pro. Leave a comment if you found this helpful! I’d love to hear from you.

If you want to learn how to knit and purl while creating something fun, check out the Free Beginner Scarf knitting pattern! You’ll learn everything you need to know about casting on, knitting, purling, garter stitch, stockinette stitch, casting off, weaving in ends, and (optionally) attaching fringe to your scarf from just one pattern. Get your free copy using the form below:

Happy knitting,
Amanda

Fun fact: knitting is only 2 stitch types – the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Mastering these 2 stitch types – which you’ll learn in this beginner scarf pattern – puts you on your way to advancing your skills!

I love showing beginner knitters how to knit a scarf. They’re fast to knit, once you get into the rhythm of knitting. Not to mention, you end up with something useful and beautiful once you’re finished.

This beginner scarf pattern will teach you the following:

• How to work the knit stitch (includes video tutorial)
• How to work the purl stitch (includes video tutorial)
• What garter stitch is and how to create it
• What stockinette stitch is and how to create it
• How to begin mentally tracking your work with row trackers built into the pattern
• Explanations around some of the most common roadblocks for beginner knitters like yarn choice, gauge, casting on, casting off and weaving in ends
• An optional extra tutorial about how to create and attach fringe to your scarf

Beginner Scarf Pattern Info + FAQ

Inside this free pattern, you’ll find information about yarn choice, what needles to use, plus all the essential information about creating the actual pattern. Curious what the finished scarf will look like? Check out the photos below. Then read through some of the most common questions I receive about this pattern.

What yarn should I use?

The pattern calls for a “super bulky” yarn. That means it’s a very thick yarn. All yarns have what’s called a “category weight”. Specifically, this refers to the yarn’s thickness level.

Different yarn thicknesses create different results. In this pattern, the scarf is cozy because the yarn is super bulky. A thinner yarn would create a more lightweight scarf.

The yarn I recommend to use is Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick, in Hudson Bay.

This yarn is available at most big box yarn stores, like Joann Fabrics. It’s also a very affordable option for beginners. You need 2 skeins of yarn if you choose this yarn. If you choose a different super bulky yarn, please keep in mind you’ll need 174-200 yards of yarn.

Information about category weight and yardage of yarn is all contained on the yarn label. Get more information about how to read a yarn label right here.

What size needles should I use?

Knitting needles come in many different sizes. Similar to the yarn category weight, different needle sizes will create a different effect. Some needles are very small and thin. Others are very thick.

The size of the needle – it’s thickness – is usually paired to the category weight of the yarn. Accordingly, since this pattern calls for a super bulky yarn, the recommended needle size is also bulky!

The recommended needle size is a US 13. View an affordable US 13 knitting needle set at Joann Fabrics hereUS 13 knitting needle set at Joann Fabrics here.

One thing to note about knitting needles: they come in 3 types.

You’ll notice in the link above, I recommend a type that has a cable connecting the needles. This is called a circular. This is my preferred type of knitting needle. I like these for beginners because the cable will hold your stitches for you, making it less likely that you’ll drop stitches.

You could also choose straight needles, if you prefer. These are needles that look like sticks, and are not connected by a cable. View a US 13 size straight needle here.View a US 13 size straight needle here.

I don’t know how to knit or purl. Should I try this pattern?

In a word: yes!

This pattern has been specifically designed for you as a beginner knitter.

There are included tutorials teaching you how to work the knit and purl stitches. You’ll also learn how to use knits and purls to create the 2 most common stitch patterns: garter stitch (all knits) and stockinette (alternating rows of knits and purls).

You don’t need to know how to knit already in order to use this pattern. You’ll learn to knit by creating the scarf! And, in my opinion, the best way to learn something is by doing.

What happens if I get stuck or make a mistake?

There are no mistakes in knitting! Every “mistake” is an opportunity to uncover what happened, learn more about the structure of stitches, and adjust going forward.

In the pattern, you’ll find a link to a private Facebook community for Charmingly Modern Beginner Knitters. You can get help with your project inside this group. The goal is to build your confidence with this scarf pattern, and show you you can become a knitter. Getting stuck just means you need to ask for help to get unstuck. That’s why the group exists.

That and you’ll also want a place to show off your scarf when you’re finished! We’re cheering you on to that finish line

What if I don’t understand the pattern when I open it?

I wont sugar coat this: when you’re beginning to read a pattern, it’s going to look strange to you. Like with anything new you try, it takes a bit of time until it becomes familiar.

Luckily, this pattern is very simple and straightforward. It’s structured like a knitting pattern would be. But contains a lot of extra information to help you get used to reading a pattern.

Give yourself time and patience. Go slowly. And, use the link to join the private Facebook Group so you can get help if you need it.

What if I’m too nervous to even get started?! I’m afraid I’ll mess it up.

Getting started is half the battle! Starting a knitting project begins with a slip knot and a cast on. There are instructions with video tutorials on how to do both of those in the pattern.

Plus, since I’ve created this knitting pattern with you in mind, there are places along the way where you’re instructed to pause and observe your work. Which means you won’t get too far into the project without periodically checking in with yourself and your project.

Think of it this way: you want to become a knitter, right? In order to do that… you have to knit. This pattern gives you the best opportunity to do that, because it’s thorough and easy to follow. Plus, you have me behind you, supporting you and cheering you on.

If you have any other questions about the pattern, you can reach out to me at anytime on INSTAGRAM. Send me a DM and we’ll talk it through.

How to download the Free Beginner Scarf Pattern

It’s really simple to get your hands on the pattern. Just use the form below and it will automatically be sent to your inbox:

Picking the right yarn is a lot more than liking the color and feel of the fiber. In fact, there’s an entire science behind every yarn selection and whether or not it will actually create a finished object that looks (and fits) like the pattern photos.

Knowing which yarn is the “right” yarn starts with knowing how to read a yarn label.

Usually a knitting pattern will have a suggested yarn – either an exact brand, or a suggested weight. On top of that, the pattern will have a specific needle size you should use with that yarn (because there’s more than one knitting needle size!) as well as something called a pattern gauge.

Pattern gauge is what determines the finished size of your project using the suggested yarn and needles outlined in the pattern.

Which, by the way, if you’ve ever cast on a project without paying attention to the suggested yarn and needle size, then wondered why what you were making was vastly different than the pattern… now you know why.

That begs the question: if all that information about yarn choice and needle size is on the knitting pattern, then how do you take that information and use it to figure out the best yarn for the project? Especially if your pattern doesn’t specify a brand to use, or if you determine you don’t like the suggested yarn for whatever reason.

It all comes down to being able to read a yarn label. Yarn labels contain every piece of information you need to know to help you choose the right yarn for your knitting project.

When you understand how to read a yarn label, you’ll know if you’re choosing the right yarn for any knitting project. Yes, any project!

That means you can tap into your creativity and feel free to experiment with other types of yarns, as long as they meet those requirements around needle size and weight set out in the pattern.

And that means when you find a hat, scarf or sweater pattern and the designer chose a yarn in a shade you don’t like, or with a fiber content you’re not thrilled about… guess what? The knowledge you’ve gained about reading yarn labels will empower you to make a choice better suited for your own tastes. Pretty fun, right?

Use the handy guide here to help you become a total pro at reading yarn labels.

What is a yarn label?

A yarn label is exactly what it sounds like: it’s a band of paper wrapped around a ball, hank or skein of yarn.

The label contains 7 pieces of important information about that yarn:

• The brand, dyer or company distributing the yarn
• The name of the color and the dye lot associated with it
• The grams and yardage of the yarn (in other words, how much yarn is contained inside this particular ball)
• The category weight of the yarn (aka, it’s thickness level)
• What needle size works best with this particular weight of yarn, aka its gauge
• The fiber content (meaning, what exactly makes up this yarn?)
• Care instructions

Let’s break down each component of the yarn label so next time you go yarn shopping, you know exactly which yarn is the best choice for your pattern.

How to read a yarn label’s 7 key components:

The 7 key components of a yarn label listed above each have their own details to understand. Below is everything you need to understand whether you’re a beginner knitter, intermediate or more advanced.

Yarn Label Component #1: Brand, Dyer and/or Company

Usually, the first thing you’ll notice on a yarn label is who made the yarn! The company, brand, or dyer will put their name and/or their logo in a prominent place on the label.

This area will also tell you any name the yarn you’re looking at has within the company.

For example, some dyers like to give their yarns fun or unique names based on the collection they’re a part of.

The yarn pictured is called Juliet and the colorway (the name of the color) is “Awakening Earth.” The brand that made this particular yarn is Yarn Love. They have some really beautiful sock yarns that have pretty fun names.

Yarn Label Component #2: Color Information

Sometimes a brand will name the color of the yarn something fun, interesting or descriptive, like you just saw with the Yarn Love label. If there isn’t a specific name for the color, there will be a series of numbers that identify the color.

Related to this, you’ll also see the dye lot number noted. When yarn is dyed, it’s done in groups. The groups of yarn that are dyed together at the same time are lumped under a dye lot. That dye lot is given a specific identification number.

This is really useful to know if you’re purchasing a lot of yarn for a large project (like a sweater). You want the yarn to all have the same exact color – aka, all be from the same dye lot – for your project

Believe it or not, even with big box brands, there can be slight variations in color between dye lots. Even if the same exact formula is used for the dye every time, small factors like temperature, humidity, or even the yarn itself can change how the color looks.

Here’s an example of this in action.

Below is a cardigan sweater I knit out of Malabrigo yarn that was all the same color, but 2 of the hanks were from a different dye lot than the rest.

I made the mistake of not checking the dye lot when purchasing all the yarn! Can you see the line that divides the 2 dye lots? You’ll notice at the top of the cardigan the blue is slightly deeper compared to the lower part. This is how big of a difference a dye lot can make with your project.

#3 Grams and Yardage (physical weight)

Yarn has two types of weight: physical and categorical. We’ll talk about category in a moment. Physical weight describes how much the yarn weighs in grams, as well as the length of the yarn.

Yarn comes to you in a few different forms. All of these can drastically vary in terms of weight and yardage.

Here are the most common ways you’ll see yarn being sold:

• Hank – A hank is a large ring of yarn that’s been twisted into a figure eight shape. A yarn label is wrapped around the center to secure it. When you untwist a hank of yarn, you’ll need to wind it into a ball because you won’t be able to knit from the loose ring.
• Skein – This is how most yarn sold at big box stores is wound. Usually a skein is a cylinder shape, with the ability to pull the yarn from the outside or the center. It has a yarn label wrapped around the center.
• Ball – This is what it sounds like: a ball of yarn, where you pull the yarn from the outside. Usually, you’ll turn a hank into a ball (like I explained up a little further) but sometimes you’ll see yarn being sold this way.

Whether it’s a hank, skein or ball, you’ll need to know how much yarn you have.

There are a few standards of length and weight – for example, if you’re knitting with sock yarn, usually the length and weight of the yarn is enough for a pair of socks. So in that case, generally speaking, you know one hank of yarn is enough for a pair of socks.

But if you’re knitting a larger project, like a sweater or a baby blanket, or if you’re using novelty yarns that don’t really follow any particular standard, paying close attention to the weight and yardage is crucial.

Additionally, if you find yourself with leftover yarn and you’re really not sure how much is left in terms of yards, you can use a small weight scale like a postal scale to weigh you yarn in grams. Then, you can use a simple formula to estimate the remaining yards based on the information on the label.

For example, if your yarn label indicated the hank you were using was 50 grams and 137 yards, you have a starting point. Your next step is to weigh the yarn you have left (you can use a postal scale). Let’s pretend it tells you you have 18 grams remaining. Now, you can setup a basic equation to determine the yardage 18 grams is equivalent to.

Remember cross multiplication from school?! Who knew you’d be using that and pre-algebra again as a knitter – but it’s very useful!

As long as you have like measurements on each “level,” this type of equation works in various ways to help you work out knitting things.

In this example, the grams are along the top, and the yards are on the bottom.

50 grams is equivalent to 136 yards is on the left, and 18 grams is equivalent to a mystery amount of yards (X) on the right. Cross multiply, then solve for X with division and voila! You know that 18 grams equals about 49 yards.

#4 Category weight

The type of yarn you choose will have different characteristics when it comes to a finished project based on what’s called the “category weight” of that yarn.

In other words: different types of yarn (whether it’s a thicker yarn, chunky yarn, or something very lacy) will create a different look based on their category weight. Think about it: if you use a very thin yarn to knit a hat, the stitches will be super small. Contrast that against a bulky yarn, the stitches will have a lot of definition (be very visible).

You’ll know you’re looking at the category weight of the yarn when you see things like “bulky yarn”, or “sport weight yarn” on the label.

The Craft Yarn Council created these definitions, which have become the standard yarn weight system. It’s a good idea to pay close attention to them – remember your knitting pattern is going to tell you something like, “Use a dk weight yarn for this project.” Knowing how the yarn is classified by the yarn weight system is how you’ll know if it’s DK or not!

Based on the photo, you see there are numbers associated with each category weight. Sometimes a yarn label will only show the number icon, other times they’ll name the category weight itself and not display the icon.

Here’s a brief description of each yarn category weight:

0 Lace – These are thinner yarns that are very delicate and usually used in crochet (think: doily).

1 Super Fine – This is usually where your sock, fingering, or baby yarns fall. You can also consider this a lace weight yarn for knitting projects (think: shawls), because they’ll really showcase stitch definition. They’re also a great choice for baby garments (not blankets) like sweaters, hats, socks or jumpers because they’re lighter.

2 Fine – This is usually sport weight yarn. This is slightly thicker than super fine, so it’s also great for lightweight garments like scarves, shawls or wraps. I like using this for baby clothes, too.

3 Light – DK (double knitting) yarn usually falls under this category, along with light worsted. Since it’s a lighter weight yarn, it’s good for garments like a summer shirt, hats or even sweaters that you don’t want to look bulky. It’s also very good for color work (which is knitting with multiple colors to create a design).

4 Medium – This is where worsted weight yarn is classified, as well as a few other groups like aran and afghan yarns. This category is the perfect yarn for new knitters because the yarn is thick enough to be able to see what you’re doing very easily, yet not so thick that it creates a very bulky project. It also tends to knit up fairly quickly, because the recommended needle size is on the medium side as well. Worsted yarn is great for clothing and accessories, as well as home items like blankets, washcloths, etc.

5 Bulky – Bulky weight yarn is grouped here! And it’s exactly what it sounds like… thicker yarns that create a bulky finished object. This yarn is great for blankets, thick scarves or hats, and sometimes sweaters if you’re going for that kind of look.

6 Super Bulky – Yep, the yarn just keeps getting thicker from here on out. Super bulky yarn is a good choice for heavy blankets, scarves or hats. Sometimes roving is classified here, as well, which is basically un-spun (or natural) fiber before it becomes plied yarn.

7 Jumbo – This is really just reserved for blankets, and roving. You typically won’t see this type of yarn available. Although with the arm knitting craze, I have seen more of this being sold at big box craft stores. Sometimes unique yarns are classified here, too – like, for example, yarns that have embellishments woven into the fiber.

Now that you understand the differences in the category weight, you can probably imagine how big of an impact that makes on the finished project, right?

Smaller-weight yarns are going to create very thin stitches, making them naturally better suited for things like socks, and baby clothes. Versus heavier-weight yarns that create thicker stitches, making them better suited for things like sweaters, scarves, blankets, etc.

#5 Needle Size & Gauge

That takes us to the next part of a yarn label. Because once you understand the role the category weight of a yarn plays, there’s something directly related to that: the gauge and suggested needle size.

Gauge is, in my opinion, the most important aspect of a knitting pattern. Gauge is a term that describes the formula for how a finished project’s size was determined.

In other words, gauge tells you how many stitches per inch you should see in the stitch pattern you’re using. There is always a recommended gauge based on the suggested needle size and yarn.

It’s usually something like: 22 stitches per 4″. This means that for every 4″ across, you’ll have 22 stitches. You can purchase a special gauge measurement tool to help you see this.

If your gauge is off, your finished object could end up being too small, too big, too tight, too loose – you get the idea.

How do you find out if you’re going to be “on gauge”? The most common way is to knit something called a “gauge swatch.” A gauge swatch is a square you knit using the suggested yarn and needle size specified in your pattern. Sometimes a pattern will tell you the gauge is based in a certain stitch pattern, like garter, stockinette or rib. In that case, you’d knit your swatch using that stitch pattern.

Typically you’ll knit the square to be about 6×6″. Once it’s complete, you’ll lay it flat and use your gauge measurement tool to see what your gauge is. From there you can decide if you need to adjust your needle size or not. For example, if your gauge is bigger than specified, you should go down a needle size or two. If it’s tighter than specified, you should go up a needle size or two.

And that’s the second thing to know about gauge.

Choosing the right size knitting needles really comes down to understanding how your unique style of knitting influences gauge. I tend to be a tight knitter. So I know whether I’m looking at a knitting pattern or a yarn label and the suggested gauge / needle size says X… I’m probably going to have to size up two needle sizes to achieve the gauge, to account for the tightness of my stitches.

#6 Fiber Content

Yarn texture is influenced by the fiber content, and that’s why this information is displayed on the yarn label. When you pickup a beautiful yarn that’s a superwash merino wool, it’s going to feel very different from an acrylic fiber, or a cotton yarn.

The type of fiber you’re knitting with will absolutely influence the drape, structure and feel of your finished object. When you’re looking at a knitting pattern and its suggested yarn, you not only want to pay attention to the category weight of that yarn, but you also need to understand the content of that yarn.

Here’s a great example. Let’s say you are knitting a hat. The knitting pattern suggests a kind of yarn that’s a blend of merino wool and cotton. You didn’t look up the yarn before choosing though, because you saw it indicated “worsted weight.” So you chose a yarn you liked the feel of that was worsted weight; it happened to be 100% cotton.

This is a problem, though.

The wool blended with the plant fiber creates a bouncy but soft and smooth yarn. The hat will hold its shape because of the wool, but will have a softness and smoothness to it because of the plant. Not to mention, wool will add warmth and strength to the plant fiber so your hat will be able to withstand all sorts of weather and temperatures.

With your yarn choice of just cotton, your hat may come out bulkier and shapeless, as well as lacking warmth and durability. The stitches may not hold up very well either, meaning after a little while the hat may start to show wear and not look as good – aka, get stretched out with repeated washing.

You may blame the pattern and think it was poorly designed… but really the issue was not paying closer attention to the fiber content of the suggested yarn!

#7 Care Instructions

The last thing you’ll find on a yarn label are the suggested care instructions for the particular type of yarn. Why is this important? Well, different fibers are machine washable … others are not.

Some can go in the dryer…. some can’t Some can be ironed, others would melt if a hot iron touched them. You get the idea.

The Craft Yarn Council developed a series of care symbols that most companies use on their yarn labels to describe the best way to take care of anything you knit with that yarn. Your yarn fiber will thank you, and so will your finished object, if you follow those care instructions.

I hope this has helped you better understand how to read a yarn label, so the next time you’re picking a yarn for your knitting project… you know exactly what all the information and symbols on the label mean! If you found this useful, feel free to share it in case it may help someone else, too. Be sure to leave a comment and let me know what you found most interesting about all the info on a yarn label.

Happy Knitting,

Amanda

Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. he thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

“Oh, God”, he thought, what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen! Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. “How about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense”

“He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

He felt a slight itch up on his belly

He thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table – Samsa was a travelling salesman – and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather.

“Oh, God”, he thought, “what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen!

Travelling day in and day out. Doing business like this takes much more effort than doing your own business at home, and on top of that there’s the curse of travelling, worries about making train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that you can never get to know anyone or become friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

However hard he threw himself onto his right,

” He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

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Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. he thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

“Oh, God”, he thought, what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen! Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. “How about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense”

“He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

He felt a slight itch up on his belly

He thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table – Samsa was a travelling salesman – and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather.

“Oh, God”, he thought, “what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen!

Travelling day in and day out. Doing business like this takes much more effort than doing your own business at home, and on top of that there’s the curse of travelling, worries about making train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that you can never get to know anyone or become friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

However hard he threw himself onto his right,

” He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

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Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. he thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

“Oh, God”, he thought, what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen! Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. “How about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense”

“He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

He felt a slight itch up on his belly

He thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table – Samsa was a travelling salesman – and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather.

“Oh, God”, he thought, “what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen!

Travelling day in and day out. Doing business like this takes much more effort than doing your own business at home, and on top of that there’s the curse of travelling, worries about making train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that you can never get to know anyone or become friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

However hard he threw himself onto his right,

” He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

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Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. he thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

“Oh, God”, he thought, what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen! Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. “How about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense”

“He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

He felt a slight itch up on his belly

He thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table – Samsa was a travelling salesman – and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather.

“Oh, God”, he thought, “what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen!

Travelling day in and day out. Doing business like this takes much more effort than doing your own business at home, and on top of that there’s the curse of travelling, worries about making train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that you can never get to know anyone or become friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

However hard he threw himself onto his right,

” He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

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Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. he thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

“Oh, God”, he thought, what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen! Drops of rain could be heard hitting the pane, which made him feel quite sad. “How about if I sleep a little bit longer and forget all this nonsense”

“He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

He felt a slight itch up on his belly

He thought, but that was something he was unable to do because he was used to sleeping on his right, and in his present state couldn’t get into that position. However hard he threw himself onto his right, he always rolled back to where he was. He must have tried it a hundred times, shut his eyes so that he wouldn’t have to look at the floundering legs, and only stopped when he began to feel a mild, dull pain there that he had never felt before.

His room, a proper human room although a little too small, lay peacefully between its four familiar walls. A collection of textile samples lay spread out on the table – Samsa was a travelling salesman – and above it there hung a picture that he had recently cut out of an illustrated magazine and housed in a nice, gilded frame. Gregor then turned to look out the window at the dull weather.

“Oh, God”, he thought, “what a strenuous career it is that I’ve chosen!

Travelling day in and day out. Doing business like this takes much more effort than doing your own business at home, and on top of that there’s the curse of travelling, worries about making train connections, bad and irregular food, contact with different people all the time so that you can never get to know anyone or become friendly with them. It can all go to Hell!

However hard he threw himself onto his right,

” He felt a slight itch up on his belly; pushed himself slowly up on his back towards the headboard so that he could lift his head better; found where the itch was, and saw that it was covered with lots of little white spots which he didn’t know what to make of; and when he tried to feel the place with one of his legs he drew it quickly back because as soon as he touched it he was overcome by a cold shudder. He slid back into his former position.

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