Gardening with Cheryl

End of Spring Shipping Season

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Mon, 22 Jun 2009 18:39:00 +0000

We are quickly approaching that fine line of where spring officially becomes
summer. Spring was certainly cooler for most of us and now it's confusing
with the intermittent warmer days thrown in with some of the still cooler
ones. This still makes for good planting. With the Clearance prices that we
have on our surplus bare root stock time remains to plant those fruit trees
or get that hedge started.

Our last week for shipping this summer will be the week of June 29th. Our
office will be closed during the week of July 6th. We will be popping in
briefly several times during that week to check emails and confirm new
orders.

July and August are always busy months here as we are visiting with our
growers and selecting the plants that we will have available for you. Also,
I am searching through my personal library for interesting topics that we
can talk about in our fall and spring newsletters. Since time will be quite
limiting, we may only send out one updating newsletter over July. But, come
August/September, we should be getting back to our weekly communication with
you.

I truly enjoy interaction with all of you. There are two more newsletters
before our July break and I will miss that contact, but as I read and
research, I will come back for fall newsletters with lots of interesting
material. If there is anything in particular that you would like for me to
address, I'd be happy to look into it. Just drop me an email at
chery@greenwoodnursery.com.
During this time, we will still be adding in pictures of our garden (plan to
get initial pictures up on the slideshow tomorrow).

Check out our Facebook page for even more landscaping and gardening tips as
well as an album on Steve's trips to Africa. He was quite busy on his last
trip to Africa a couple of months ago, but did have time to take more
pictures, so I will be adding new ones to his album soon.

Until next time........Cheryl

Bare Root Plants

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 15:22:00 +0000

You know the most frequent question I get is what is the difference with the
bare root plants? Well, the biggest difference is always going to be price
(bare root plants are typically less expensive), but let me explain what
exactly bare root is.

Seed is planted and it grows the seedlings or cuttings are taken from
cutting stock and rooted after which some plant varieties are sold at this
stage, which means that the seedlings are dug, counted into bundles and
shipped without any soil just as cuttings are pulled, bundled and shipped
bare root. You've probably heard the term liner. It is used for any young
plant whether it is a seedling or cutting. For our larger bare root plants,
the liners (seedlings or cuttings) are then taken to the field for another
year to two years of growth. After going dormant, they are dug (depending on
when they are scheduled to ship out) and kept as dormant as possible before
shipping. The soil is shaken from the roots so that there shouldn't be any
on the root system when they are being prepped for shipping. In many cases,
a bare root transplant will be huskier or beefier in caliper (the size of
the trunk) than one of the same age in a container.

Our planting instructions can always be found on our web site under the tab
"Plant Tips". Once clicking onto Planting Care and Instructions, then click
onto the type of plant you will be planting. Some plants, such as shrubs and
trees, are divided into Planting Bare Root and Planting Container with step
by step directions.

There isn't any more of a risk in planting bare root than container plants
and depending on the plant, some are better off as bare root transplants. It
has been 2 years since we have had an End of Spring Clearance. As many of
you will remember last spring, we sold out of a lot of our plant varieties,
so to combat that we probably did purchase a few more as to not disappoint.

This is a wonderful time to take advantage of some of our great clearance
prices.

Be sure to check the homepage from time to time as Indy will be featuring
the container items that she needs "thin out".

We appreciate your continued support.

Until next time...Cheryl

Home Vacations!!!

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Mon, 11 May 2009 20:00:00 +0000

Vacationing at home sometimes is as much as much fun as going away for a
week or so. Vacations at home can vary from setting up a portable pool in
the backyard for yourself and the kids pretending you're at the beach to
taking day trips enjoying local sites.

Some years, Steve and I didn't take the kids away for an extended vacation,
so we improvised. Truth be told, sometimes being focused on working and
everything here at the nursery, we actually forgot to get away and that
isn't good. Recently, it has come up in conversation at our house about this
concept of vacation this year, but for sure nothing has been decided. (Sh!
Sh! My secret thought is that if I keep putting it off, it'll go away.)
Again, that's not good, so I thought it would be a fun change of pace to
talk about things we can do in our own areas that can create that same fun,
exciting feeling we get when on vacation.

My group has never been much into water sports or hanging out on a beach, so
when we have or do go on vacation, there has to be interesting things to
visit. We really enjoy historic homes and gardens, nature gardens/walks, and
museums. Our children grew up visiting many of the historic homes and
gardens east of the Mississippi and actually enjoyed it and afterwards, we
always discussed the way of life at that time.

Over late spring and summer is the best time to take advantage of garden
settings as they are in full bloom. My philosophy in visiting gardens open
to the public is that most have landscape architects or professionals who
design these gorgeous landscapes. Not only am I able to enjoy their efforts,
but I can take the design concepts home with me to apply to my next
landscape project or offer as a suggestion. Landscape ideas free to me! (Or
relatively free).

Below, I have included links that will help you find historic gardens (and
homes), botanical gardens, arboretums, nature walks, as well as links to
some of the Jones' favorite haunts that we visit time and time again when we
are in those areas such as: Biltmore Estate, Winterthur Gardens, Longwood
Gardens, Bellingrath Gardens, Monticello, Mt. Vernon, Williamsburg, Newport
Mansions and Mohonk Mountain House. I know Mohonk Mtn. House is a resort,
but they do offer day passes for the public to enjoy the grounds. Pack a
picnic lunch and have a great day from hiking to enjoying their mediation
points.

For those who don't have children at home (or if you do, hire a babysitter),
take a tour at a vineyard in the area and don't forget the tasting
afterwards! A bottle of wine, some cheeses, fresh fruit and sweet nibbles
have the makings of a perfect picnic.
In planning your home vacation, do the same things you would plan before any
other get away such as clean the house, do the laundry, mow the lawn, etc.
The computer and cell phones should have a break, too. Let the answering
machine or voice mail catch those people who don't know you're on vacation.
It's a getaway time, no work! Why not make it a themed vacation and visit
the party store to pick up inexpensive regional decorations such as netting,
shells, leis, little umbrellas for drinks, etc for a beach look.

Don't forget vacation smells for the house such as our dryer sheets in beach
days and lavender. Also, keep an open bottle of inexpensive sunscreen.
Nothing says vacation like the smell of sunscreen. Treat yourself to a
beautiful market basket and carry it with you everywhere with a large beach
size towel, which also works in pinch for picnics, straw hat, small bottle
of sunscreen, and snacks.

Here are other fun things perfect for a home vacation:

. Schedule a massage or facial
. Eat out or order delivery
. Hire a sitter for the kids and have a date night
. One day have a DVD marathon (especially good if it is a rainy day)
. Create a theme by renting DVD's set in specific areas
. Extended family cookout
. Read a book
. Keep coffee, juice, water and snacks on hand
. Visit a nearby museum or zoo
. Go for a drive and eat out
. Visit stores/shops that you don't usually visit
. Check out your area to see if there are any community activities
going on-such as free concerts, openings, and don't forget to check out the
library for story time
. Check to see if your area offers outdoor dramas or ghost tours-the
last link below is to find outdoor dramas
. Take a cooking class and show off your new skills at home by
preparing those dishes

Below are links to help you find local gardens and nature walks in your
area:

http://www.gardenvisit.com/gardens/in/usa

http://www.gardenguides.com/resources/walks/states.asp?c=US

http://www.visitnewengland.com/current_category.77/current_advcategory.567/c
ompanies_list.html

http://www.newportmansions.org/

http://www.history.org/history/CWLand/

http://www.monticello.org/

http://www.bellingrath.org/

http://www.biltmore.com/

http://www.winterthur.org/visiting/visiting.asp

http://www.longwoodgardens.org/

http://www.mountvernon.org/

http://www.mohonk.com/gardens/gardens.cfm

http://www.publicgardens.org/Custom/GardenSearch.aspx

http://gosoutheast.about.com/od/historicsitesculture/a/outdoordramas.htm

Just as you are preparing the inside of the house for vacation, don't forget
the outside. The week before vacation, mow and weed the landscape. Sweep the
walk, patio and/or deck. Put a little fresh mulch or aged compost mix around
some of the plants at the front door and at the back entrances. Plant some
new perennials at the entrances as well and along the walk. This makes it
look clean and new and will give you a different frame of mind when coming
and going about your home vacation.

Outside checklist for week before vacation: Green Tek ECO, Perennials,
Herbs, Hostas, Liriope, Ornamental grasses. These are things that can be
applied or planted that will make big impact with little effort.

Remember, no working on vacation!

Mother's Day is this Sunday. Don't forget our Mother's Day Special!!! When
you purchase plants to be shipped to your mom for her special day, Greenwood
will include a $10.00 Gift Certificate that she can redeem on her next
purchase this season. So, at no additional charge, mom will also receive a
$10.00 Gift Certificate in her card which will be included with your gift
for her. What a special way to say "I love you, Mom"!!!!! This special will
continue with gift orders through Monday morning (May 11th).

Be sure to check out our Monthly Member's Value Page, Member's Only Spring
Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow.

Check out our Facebook page for even more landscaping and gardening tips.

Have a great time and see you when you get back!!!!!!!

Until next time....Cheryl

Raised Beds

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 07 May 2009 16:58:00 +0000

Building raised beds for vegetable or flower gardens are a great way to
combat the problem of having an area that drains poorly. I want to share
with everyone this project which Cydney (you can see her picture with Baby
Charles as one of the rotations on our homepage) and her husband Dave did
last Saturday. They live in an area which is a newer development so as you
can imagine they have terrible drainage. They are on the lower side of a
slope with a drainage ditch nearer the back/side area of their lot. After
heavy rains, the area in the back stays wet. We discussed it and it would be
quite costly to attempt to amend the soil in such a large back yard. So, Cyd
came up with this solution.

Even during their earlier years together when apartment living, Cyd and Dave
planted tomatoes and peppers in large pots. Now that they are into their 3rd
year as homeowners, they are ready to take the plunge and set out a
vegetable garden.

(Sorry-pictures of the raised beds were shown with original newsletter and
didn't transfer to this blog.)
With the raised bed idea, she planned it out and at their local hardware
store purchased 3 boards for each bed (2" X 10" X 8'long) cutting one in
half for the ends. They already had 3" deck screws and the white paint from
other projects. She highly recommends the screws as they will add more
stability. Because their backyard is mostly flat, Cyd and Dave didn't have
to dig out to level the bed. Including the topsoil for the beds, they spent
a total of $91.00 for their 2 raised beds.

Once they leveled out the topsoil, they planted their favorites, tomato and
pepper plants, as well as seeds of squash, zucchini, cantaloupe, lettuce,
peas, and beans. They planted marigolds around the tomato plants for bug
control and as Cyd says, "It's pretty!"
Cyd and Dave have a couple of outside projects scheduled for this spring
and, if she'll share more pictures with us, we'll watch their progress.

In landscaping around their new home over the past 2 years, Cyd has used
such plants as the Russian Sage, rosemary, bamboo, lavender, pineapple sage,
chives, and oregano. She has the herbs planted in raised beds around the
patio. She and Dave enjoy sitting there on summer evenings taking in the
aroma of those wonderful herbs.

I hope you find this information helpful. Changing the levels of your
landscape can be so easy. Just as easy as a few boards screwed together.
Each week, I receive emails from many of you with drainage problems. To
solve the problem long term, amending the soil and/or diverting water run
off is the best way, but for an immediate, and usually more temporary,
solution raised beds can be a yard saver.

I hope all of you are taking a moment to enjoy the new pictures in rotation
on our homepage, www.greenwoodnursery.com . Many of us may never get the
chance to actually meet, but with putting faces to our voices, makes it a
little more familiar. Don't miss our new Gift Ideas Department with
wonderful plant collections that will delight your favorite person as well
as our popular Gift Certificates after all, Mother's Day is approaching
quickly.

Be sure to check out our Monthly Member's Value Page, Member's Only Spring
Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow.
Check out our Facebook page for even more landscaping and gardening tips as
well as an album on Steve's trips to Africa.

Until next time...Cheryl

Healthy Lawn Care

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 07 May 2009 16:43:00 +0000

Healthy Lawn Care

Whether you refer to it as natural or organic, it really comes down to the
fact that so many of us just want to participate in healthy lawn care. In
order to get the desired results, it takes dedication, time and knowledge.
Much like when someone must change their diet to become healthier, not only
do they change what they eat, but there are other alterations within their
lifestyle that are made and it takes dedication and time for the change to
take place.

We know that we are going to make the change to healthy lawn care so where
do we start?

. Improve Your Soil-Healthy soil contains everything needed to grow
healthy grass and, as an added bonus, weed seeds don't germinate as well, so
less weeds. A soil test can give you a starting point. This can be arranged
through your local conservation district office or local ag extension
agent's office. The results of the test should give you needed amendments to
put your soil back into a neutral pH.
. Select The Proper Grass for Your Area-Once your soil has been
amended, you are ready to sow the seed. A visit to your local hardware store
is needed here and should be educational. Visit one of the locally owned
stores such as Ace Hardware or True Value Hardware or even your local
Farmer's Co-op as these stores typically have staff that is knowledgeable
about these things. If you have shaded areas, you need to let them know as
they will need to help you select a seed blend especially for that area.
After sowing the grass seed, covering the newly sown area with a light layer
of straw can prove beneficial as it will help to keep birds from eating the
grass seeds, protect the area from washing should there be heavy rainfall
before the seed can germinate, provide light shade and keep the soil moist.
All of these factors, including warm weather, will help to speed the
germination of the grass and it decomposes into the soil.
. Mow less with taller grass-Allow the grass to grow a bit more before
mowing. Set your mower blades for 3 inches and let the grass grow to 4 or 5
inches before mowing. Cutting grass down much lower can damage the roots and
dry out the soil.

Greenwood offers organic lawn care products that will naturally make your
plants grow, keep weeds down and assist in building up the soil. Our Coral
Calcium specifically helps to energize plants and reduce weeds. Green Tek
Soil Conditioner helps to percolate and aerate the soil. Green Tek Total is
a non-toxic fertilizer containing biological components. Our Green Tek ECO
does all of the above, as well as, helping to detoxify chemical applications
from fertilizers and other products and helps to keep flying insects at bay.

Now that you have healthy soil and grass is growing, how often do we water?
Well, that will vary, but the University of Missouri Extension will help
guide you through that process and give you tips on watering your lawn:

http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6720

Okay, let's recap: Healthy soil..check, grass growing..check, mowing at 3
inches..check, watering schedule set up..check! Now, besides our Green Tek
Products, here is another listing of organic fertilizers from the Virginia
Cooperative Extension at Virginia Tech. With this detailed listing you
should be able to encourage grass growth naturally. Most of these products
can be found at your local hardware store or farmer's co-op.

http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/envirohort/factsheets2/fertilizer/jan89pr6
.html

I have read Mother Earth News Magazine for many, many years and sometimes I
find articles that are truly worth keeping on file. The article below is one
of them. Steve Solomon writes about his homemade organic fertilizer, how to
make it up, what to use it on (primarily for vegetable gardens, but can be
tested in other areas with caution), and how much to apply.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/print-article.aspx?id=74392

For brush ups on mulching, pruning roses, landscaping around decks, new home
landscaping, and drainage problems, xeriscaping, coloring woodland areas,
controlling rabbits, deer and moles, as well as learn how to be a gardener,
visit my blog for some of my articles from last season. When we changed our
web site last fall, my archive on the site didn't make the move over, so
now, you'll find them on my blog.

http://cherylsnotebook.blogspot.com/

Check out our Mother's Day Special!!! When you purchase plants to be shipped
to your mom for her special day, Greenwood will include a $10.00 Gift
Certificate that she can redeem on her next purchase this season. So, at no
additional charge, mom will also receive a $10.00 Gift Certificate in her
card which will be included with your gift for her. What a special way to
say "I love you, Mom"!!!!!

Be sure to check out our Monthly Member's Value Page, Member's Only Spring
Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow.

Check out our Facebook page for even more landscaping and gardening tips.

Until next time...Cheryl

Children and Pets in the Garden

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 07 May 2009 16:42:00 +0000

Children and Pets in the Garden

With temperatures finally beginning to creep up the thermostats, more and
more of you are finding yourselves outside in the garden/landscape. Over the
past week, I have received many emails concerning plants toxic to children
and pets. This week, I want to share information on that as well as touch on
ways to make the garden safer for both pets and children.

When designing a new landscape or reevaluating an older landscape, don't
forget to work in spaces especially for children such as: a sandbox, jungle
gym, and/or open grassy areas for football or net games like as volleyball
and badminton (not just for children). A sandbox or jungle gym can be tucked
into a corner or other small area. For jungle gym or other physical
activities a thick layer of shredded bark mulch on the ground will help to
reduce the impact of falls.

Introduce children to gardening and yard maintenance early on so that as
they develop, they gain an appreciation and respect for plants and the
landscape. These learning sessions are the perfect opportunity for teaching
them about plants and how they grow. This reduces the chances of children
ingesting any poisonous parts of plants.

For those with pets, work in an area for them to run and play. Gravel can
be irritating to their paws and hot in summer, so use shredded bark mulch
for this area which also works great for their potty areas as well. Place
dog houses in protected areas such as nearer the house/garage or tucked into
corners (great where there is a fence for additional protection). Sun and
wind protection are other points to keep in mind.

Be flexible. Some dogs just like to dig and no matter what, you can't keep
some plants. I've experienced this with my dogs. Steve and I replaced a
couple of small trees damaged by a freeze a few years ago with dynamite
crape myrtles. The next day, we came home to the plants dug up and dried
out. We had to replace with 2 more new plants. The following day, we came
home to them dug up and dried out, again. The dogs were scolded, of course,
but we didn't want to kill, yet, 2 more plants. So, we planted the newest
crape myrtles in large containers with a few annuals. It isn't what we
really wanted for the landscape, but, this is a spot on the outside of our
garden gate, so the container thing works fine. Planting in containers and
raised beds can be a good solution for keeping plants off the ground so that
they aren't dug up, time and time again.

Young and small plants are at risk of having dogs urinate on them, which if
allowed to continue, will kill the plants. Sprinkle cayenne pepper over the
area and around the base of the plants. I did this a few years ago when,
Zack, our goofy lab, decided he would see how long it would take to knock
off our tiny boxwoods lining the front walk. After watching the boxwoods
struggle for life, I began sprinkling the cayenne pepper around them. When
Zack would "visit" the boxwoods, he'd get a snout full of pepper and move
away. I did this over a couple of weeks and, finally, he left them alone.
Those poor plants, I didn't think they'd ever grow out of it, but they did.

Neighborhood cats can be a big problem. Two successful ways of keeping them
out of landscapes and gardens is to lay pine cones around the area or lay
sections of chicken wire, secure to ground and cover ever so lightly with
mulch. The pine cones, chicken wire or anything prickly will help to keep
them at bay.

Here is a short listing of plants that are safe to use around pets and
children:

Bamboo
Ornamental grasses
Crape Myrtles
Forsythia
Cat Mint
Chives
Lavender
Rosemary
Thyme
Heucheras
Sage
Herbs (many other varieties including annual varieties)
Sedum
Tulip poplar

This is just a short list of plants that can be planted safely in the
garden. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to
Animals) has a great site with information on a listing of the 17 top toxic
plants to pets, great articles on pet care (dogs, cats and horses), and
animal poison control hotlines.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/17-common-poisonous-plants.html

Pawprints and Purrs, Inc is, also, a non-profit organization dedicated to
educating pet owners, preventing animal cruelty and pet abuse. Check out
their link to Wealth of Resources and you will find articles on everything
from pet ownership to traveling with your pet to alternative medicines for
pets. The specific links here are to listings of toxic plants and the second
link to safe, non-toxic plants for the garden and landscape.

http://www.sniksnak.com/plants-toxic.html
http://www.sniksnak.com/plants.html

These lists are certainly not complete, but if you have a question about
whether or not a specific plant is toxic or safe, always ask your pet's
veterinarian.

The following link is to a short article on backyard safety for kids. It
offers some good advice to keeping children safe and happy at play.

http://child-proofing-homes.suite101.com/article.cfm/backyard_safety_for_kid
s

There are always more things to think about.

Brenda, Indy, Cydney and I are enjoying the compliments that all of you are
sending our way. Personally, I think I look especially cute with my baby,
Nick (okay, he's 21, but who's counting?).

Watch for our special Mother's Day Promotion that we will be launching over
the next week. There will be a special link to this on the homepage for you
to click on to access it. Purchase your mom's Mother's Day gift from
Greenwood Nursery, and we when we ship it to her, we will include a special
$10 gift certificate in the card for your mom at no additional cost to you.

Be sure to check out our Monthly Member's Value Page, Member's Only Spring
Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow.

Check out our Facebook page for even more landscaping and gardening tips.

Until next time...Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:49:00 +0000

When more is less...Yes that is actually true in landscaping. The more and
closer you space plants, the less you typically need to weed. Weeds don't
germinate in dark, crowded spaces, so plant more perennials, ornamental
grasses and low growing shrubs that will spread out and fill the void spaces
in your landscape. Why not enjoy blooms and the colors and textures from
these plants rather than fighting weeds. Planting now can help you to avoid
weeding problems later in the summer.

Now that Steve is back from another extended trip to Africa, he and I will
be scheduling time over the next week to clean up our garden and foundation
landscapes. A little planning and cleaning goes a long way in making a
garden look good. Think about how nice it is after rooms have been picked up
and fresh sheets on the bed (at least). It feels good. You feel good. You're
smiling and you don't know why. It's the same in the garden. Even the
simplest walk through, picking up, trimming and raking will make you smile
and want to be outside in your habitat.

I am, what I consider to be, a lazy gardener. I enjoy reading and looking
for short cuts to limit actual garden work. My focus is always the end
result of healthy plants, lots of summer color and watching the bees,
butterflies and hummingbirds visit my garden. It is that picture that I keep
in my head as I pull, cut, prune, rake, and put aged manure mix back around
the plants. After what may end up being a Saturday afternoon of this,
basically the garden is good to go. Now, don't get the wrong idea. This
didn't just happen. It took some years of planning for the garden to
somewhat take care of itself. Even as a lazy gardener, I was willing to put
forth quite a bit of work and investment into the garden and landscape so
that as it began to mature, I wouldn't have to work as hard to keep it
maintained. Steve and I don't have a landscape maintenance service to take
care of this for us. We are still capable of doing this ourselves and
besides, we still have our youngest child at home (a live in lawn mower!).
Fortunately, for him, we don't have a huge amount of lawn area.

Really look at your garden or landscape and see where you can plant in more
perennials, ornamental grasses or even herbs so that you, too, can limit
your work in the garden, but can focus on enjoying your garden instead. With
the way the media works at stressing us out, we need every possible getaway
we can find. Steve and I have made our garden a true retreat and we want to
help you make your garden your own sanctuary.

As we approach Mother's Day, I hope you enjoy the new pictures in rotation
on our homepage, www.greenwoodnursery.com . We have featured us mom's here
at the nursery, Indy, Brenda, Cydney and me, with our children as well as a
few inviting setting pictures. Don't miss our new Gift Ideas Department with
wonderful plant collections that will delight your favorite person as well
as our popular Gift Certificates.

Don't forget to visit our Monthly Member's Value Page, Member's Only Spring
Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow. We have some great items
featured on both the Monthly Member's Value Page and our Homepage so be sure
to check them out.

Last week, I added new pictures to our Landscape Ideas Album on our Facebook
page. Check them out for landscaping and gardening tips.

Until next time...Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:47:00 +0000

Plants Perfect for Borders and Edging

Decisions! Decisions! Selecting plants to edge a garden area or path can be
just as frustrating as accessorizing a room or an outfit. We want the
overall picture to look pulled together with our choices. I like to divide
plants for this purpose into two divisions: compact and spreaders. These
plants grow in the 3 foot and under height range.

Compact plants are just that. They will grow within a defined space only
getting slightly larger over the following years. If the area needs a strong
barrier, consider a low growing shrub or grass such as Hameln Grass, Spiraea
Magic Carpet, Cotoneaster Coral Beauty, Hypericum Blue Velvet or one of the
Nandinas as they will work hard year round to keep the garden defined.

Spreaders and drapers will creep into the garden mixing with the other
plants or spill over the edge of the garden bed. They will work well in any
garden, but can really show their talents when planted along the edge of a
multi level garden.

Again, this is going to be a key spot to introduce additional colors and
textures. If the primary color of the garden is green (for example), edge
the bed with Lime Ricky or Peach Flambé Heucheras or Black Mondo Grass for
contrast. If the garden is alive with lots of color, then going low key
would be effective with something like one of the grasses, liriope (solid),
thyme or Nandina Dwarf Harbor.

Here's a listing of plants that I have complied for these 2 divisions:

Compact plants for borders and edging:

• Grass Elijah Blue (sun)
• Grass Hameln (sun)
• Chives (sun to light shade)
• Heucheras (sun to shade-depending on variety)
• Aster (sun)
• Hostas (shade)
• Ferns-such as Autumn Brilliance (shade)
• Spiraea Magic Carpet (sun to light shade)
• Spiraea Gold Mound (sun to light shade)
• Lavender (sun)
• City Line Hydrangeas (limited sun to shade)
• Liriope (sun to shade)
• Armeria Dusseldorf Pride (sun to shade)
• Veronica Royal Candles (sun to shade)
• Cotoneaster Coral Beauty (sun to shade)
• Barberry Crimson Pygmy (sun to shade)
• Hypericum Blue Velvet (sun)
• Nandina Dwarf Firepower (light to full shade)
• Nandina Dwarf Harbor (light to full shade)
• Daylilies (sun to light shade)
• Sedum Autumn Fire (sun)
• Grass Black Mondo (sun to shade)
• Grass Black Moudry (sun)
• Grass Acorus Minimus (sun)
• Grass Acorus Gramineus Ogon (sun)
• Hibiscus Lil' Kim (sun to shade)

Spreaders and Drapers:

• Mazus Reptans Purple (sun)
• Wooly Thyme (sun to shade)
• Red Creeping Thyme (sun to shade)
• Creeping Phlox (sun to light shade)
• Creeping Rosemary (sun to light shade)
• Yarrow (sun to light shade)
• Elfin Thyme (sun to shade)
• Hypericum Calycinum (sun to light shade-but needs sun to flower)

Don't feel limited to these plants though. Be creative with plants. That's
part of the fun and learning experience of gardening.

Don't forget to visit our Monthly Member's Value Page, Member's Only Spring
Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow. We have some great items
featured on both the Monthly Member's Value Page and our Homepage so be sure
to check them out.

Also, I have added new pictures to our Landscape Ideas Album on our Facebook
page. Check them out for landscaping and gardening tips.

Until next week…….Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 19:53:00 +0000

Garden Parties to Wedding Favors

Spring is THE time to plant in much of the United States. Any earlier or
later and it becomes off-season in either the North or South.

Garden Parties, which were common during the Victorian Period, can run the
gamut from a dressy afternoon tea to everyone arriving in their gardening
ware to help work in the hostess's garden. The garden party is, also, an
excellent idea to bring people together for gardening clubs, a wedding
shower or for the first time homeowner. Each guest brings a plant (small
shrubs, ornamental grasses or other perennials) and a tool, or other piece
of gardening equipment, whether new or a gift from the guest's own tool
shed.

For parties with gift exchanges, guests can bring items relating to
gardening such as a plant, tool, container, garden ornament, etc... The
hostess will need to somewhat define what types of items that guests should
bring such as indoor, outdoor, flowering, non-flowering, tools, etc.

One way of giving away plants as favors is to use small potted plants on the
tables as all or part of the table decorations or tiny potted plants can be
used as place card holders. The nursery pots can be covered with tissue
paper, burlap or other fabric and tied with a colorful ribbon or twine or
even repotted into inexpensive decorative or plan clay pots. Plants that
work great for this are: herbs (rosemary, thyme, sage, lavender), mini
palms, mini schefflera, young Shasta daisies, sunflowers seedlings, young
ornamental grasses or bamboo as well as starter plants such as tomatoes.

Handing out seedlings as wedding favors has been popular for quite sometime.
However, there are some considerations to keep in mind.

. Seedlings are seasonal and only available November through May.
During the summer months, one would need to select small potted evergreens
or potted herbs.
. Plants need to be ordered 6 to 8 weeks in advance from the nursery
or greenhouse so that delivery can be timed for the week before the wedding.
. Designate a person, or persons, to be responsible for separating the
seedlings and bagging each one with a handful of moist peat. This needs to
be done within a couple of days before the ceremony so that they are still
fresh and then kept in a cool, dark area such as garage, basement or pantry.
. Where will the plants be held (at the ceremony or reception) before
being handed out? It should again be a cool, dark area out of the way. Heat
and sun will dry them out possibly causing the plants to wilt severely or
kill them. Depending on how many guests are expected, these boxes can take
up valuable space.
. The most commonly used plant varieties for handing out as favors
are: pines, spruces, dogwoods, lilacs, red maples, even late spring/summer
flowering bulbs.

Be sure to keep in mind your guests lifestyle. If most of your guests are
city dwellers residing in apartments, they are not going to have anywhere to
plant most shrubs or trees, so herbs or flowers would be quite thoughtful.

I have just started a new album on our Facebook page with pictures of
Steve's visits to Africa over the past 3 years. He has traveled as a guest
of the USDA to meet with the local businessmen and farmers. So far, he has
visited Madagascar, South Africa, Kenya, Ghana, Bulgaria and Romania. This
month, he makes his 3rd extended visit to Rwanda during the past year alone.
I'll be adding more pictures over the next couple of weeks. We hope you
enjoy this album, too. Don't forget to read the captions on the pictures.
You should get a chuckle out of the cover picture/caption especially.

Don't forget to visit our Monthly Member's Only Value Page, Member's Only
Spring Bonus Plants, and Landscaping Ideas Slideshow. We have some great
items featured on both the Monthly Member's Only Value Page and our Homepage
so be sure to check them out.

Until next time...Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Sat, 21 Mar 2009 20:22:00 +0000

As noted in last week's newsletter, I am continuing on with ideas on
creating your own outdoor habitat where you can be found...or not!

Pictures do so much more at describing than words ever seem to do. This
article in Fine Gardening Magazine covers several of the things that make a
habitat special. The article's author, a landscape architect, not only forms
firm boundaries for his property, but utilizes the entire backyard with walk
ways, colorful mini-gardens, and, even carves out cozy, intimate areas. You
will see before and after pictures, which I enjoy. I like the way he has
achieved total privacy from the street with his use of both plants and
fencing. Keep in mind that this landscape was not established overnight. It
took years for it to look as it does in the article.

http://www.finegardening.com/design/articles/create-backyard-private-haven.a
spx

Here are more ideas that you can take and begin creating your special
habitat:

Define the purpose for your habitat. An area for weekend naps will differ
from an area used more for reading as would an intimate area.

For sunny, mostly sunny, or dry areas plant herbs in groupings of 3.
Lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano and chives shouldn't be limited to
kitchen gardens. They play well with all landscapes. If you allow chives to
bloom and go to seed they will spread around your garden sprouting new
plants later in the season. For these herbs, the drier the soil, the better
they seem to grow. I recommending mixing in some coarse sand at planting if
the soil should be on the clay side. This will help with drainage. Thyme and
rosemary will even grow in partially shaded areas, too.

Define the borders for your habitat. This can be done many ways, such as
fence or lattice panels, trees, shrubs, or ornamental grasses, basically
anything that will separate your habitat from the rest of your yard.

Once you have defined the borders, establish pathways or patio areas. Then
you can begin layering plants towards the center of your habitat. It is easy
to get carried away here, but do leave room for your hammock, chaise lounge,
or table and chairs. Layer with the tallest plants at back coming inward
with a mixture of shorter and semi-taller plants. On the inside area of your
habitat, set around plants in containers. These can even be incorporated as
part of the layering area itself if space is really limited.

Don't forget to add in some whimsical items as well such as wind wheels,
concrete statuary, bird feeders, unusual rocks, pots, bird houses, fun
hangings or lighting fixtures. I like the fun critter solar lights. This is
where you can really put your own personality stamp on your habitat.

Add in some lighting even it if is a strand of clear (okay even
multi-colored) Xmas lights. At night, even minimal lighting makes the
habitat a magical place.

Well, these are the basics on creating your own special outdoor habitat
where you can disappear to.

Don't forget to check out our new Free Spring Bonus Plants available only to
our Greenwood Members. Over the next week, I'll be adding more pictures to
our Landscape Idea Slideshow and our Landscape Idea Album on Facebook.

Until next time...

Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:45:00 +0000

Vegetable Gardening

(March 13, 2009 Newsletter) We are only 4 weeks away from Good Friday, which
many of us associate with planting our gardens. Even though the weather is
still fluctuating like night and day, we still need to plan for our
vegetable and herb gardens as well as for new additions to our relaxation
gardens.

Our vegetable garden seed kits are ready for shipping and the herb garden
seed kits should be ready for shipping after next week. It is the perfect
time for planting wildflower seeds, so if you have a large area that you
would like to see lots of summer color go ahead and order. Remember,
wildflower seeds should be planted when there is still a nip in the air.

My daughter, Cyd, wants to plant a vegetable garden this spring. Cyd and her
husband plant tomato and pepper plants in pots around their patio every
year, but this will be their first actual in the ground garden. She has her
vegetable garden seed kit which became available over the past few days. So,
then, her next question to me, "But Mom, now what do I do?" We either have
children that have asked that or maybe we, too, have done that. Well, you
know me; I emailed her the perfect link to give her all the information she
needs right from the start. She liked it and said that was exactly what she
needed. I thought this might be the year that some of you tried your hand at
planting a vegetable garden, too, and will find this link quite helpful. It
goes to Fine Gardening Magazine (one of my favorites).

http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/articles/plan-a-vegetable-garden.aspx

We use the words environment and habitat interchangeably, so I wanted to
know exactly what the difference is between the two. I mean, I know their
definitions, but what are their actual differences. Well, at Dictionary.com,
environment is listed as the external factors affecting an organism or in
respect to landscaping, an indoor/outdoor setting designed to be site
specific, while habitat refers to a natural environment for the life and
growth of an organism or a special environment or place where a person or
thing is usually found. Between the two, I like habitat because when I can't
find Steve in the house, I always find him walking through the garden
visiting with the plants (oh, yes, he does visit with the plants.). He
enjoys being in the garden even more than I do and as the weather warms it
becomes our favorite spot to unwind after work.

Some of the things I believe that make our garden habitat special for us
are:

Privacy and protection from the outside world
Intimate areas only large enough for a tiny table and 2 chairs
Plants with varied textures and color
Use of different materials in creating pathways and edging
Plenty of seating in the open areas
A fire pit for cooler evenings

It seems that around mid June the garden magically comes alive with blooms.
There isn't anything much more relaxing as sitting in the garden on a lazy
weekend afternoon watching the bees, butterflies and hummingbirds fly from
bloom to bloom.
That's nature at its best!

Next week, let's talk more about habitats and how you can create your own
place where you can be found.

Until then check out the Monthly Members Value Page, our new landscape idea
slideshow and find out what the new Spring Bonus Items are for Members Only.

Visit our idea album on Facebook, too.

Later..

Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:36:00 +0000

New Home Landscaping

(March 6, 2009 Newsletter) This is a question that I get a lot from new home
owners or those new to a home in need of landscaping. They want to know
where to start and I thought that there might be others out there who want
to know also.

Well, here are some things to take into consideration when planning or
redesigning your landscape.

First, I recommend living in your new place for about a year before
beginning any major gardens or landscapes. This time allows for you to keep
a notebook on how you and your family use the areas and live through the 4
seasons at your new home, which will give you ideas on how you would like to
use color throughout each season, as well as being able to see any potential
problems such as any seasonal drainage, lighting and privacy issues.

When you find pictures of landscapes or articles in magazines that you like,
put them in the notebook as well. Hardscaping generally refers to fences,
walks, drives, retaining walls, patios, decks, or anything that would be
built to add to the landscape. Any major hardscaping project should be done
before landscaping so that plants are not damaged.

Your lifestyle will be a major factor in landscaping. If you have children,
they will need a play space and what will it include, a play set, sand box,
open space for sports, etc. Are pets part of your family? Yes? Then, they
will need a special place to run and relieve themselves. Do you entertain a
lot? Then, you may need to extend the patio or deck areas to accommodate
more sitting spaces. Are you a homebody? You will probably want quite
tranquil spaces for reading, relaxing or soft conversation all with privacy.

If you look out at an area and don't know what you would do with it, then
don't do anything with it. Sometimes a good landscape comes out of patience.
Steve and I still have a couple of spots around our house that still aren't
landscaped and we've lived there a long time. I don't feel bad about that.
Honestly, we enjoy the other areas so much that we don't even notice it. I
refuse to plant something just 'cause.

Two things that you should go ahead with are lawns and foundation plants.
This will give you a good base to build the rest of your landscape on. Basic
evergreen and deciduous foundation plantings can be livened up with
ornamental grasses, smaller flowering shrubs, herbs, and season perennials.

I have started a photo album on our Facebook page with landscape ideas. Be
sure to check it out. Also, soon, we will be adding to our web site a photo
slideshow of even more planting ideas. So, be sure to watch for it. Also, if
you haven't logged onto your members homepage since mid November, you may
need to rejoin. We have found that our newer system doesn't recognize some
of the older membership information.

Until next time,

Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:35:00 +0000

Heucheras Make Great Investment Plants!

(Feb. 13, 2009 Newsletter) Heuchera (pronounced Hue kah rah with emphasis on
Hue) is a species native to the U.S. and commonly referred to as Coral
Bells. You've probably seen it in your parents or grandparents gardens. They
are semi-evergreen to evergreen (depending on your location) and provide
such a great impact of color and texture in the landscape making them great
investment plants.
There are lots of great hybrids which will grow in many different situations
from full sun to full shade. Each variety will have its own requirements, so
be sure to read them carefully. Most Heucheras are cold hardy to zone 4 and
heat hardy to zone 9 and considered to be deer resistant. Over June and
July, they shoot out spikes with tiny bell shaped flowers whose colors will
vary according to the variety.
Heucheras grow best in soil that has been amended with organic matter (aged
compost mix and/or aged manure mix) in an area that is moist, but not wet.
Once planted, they are virtually maintenance free, although you may want to
dig them up, divide the crowns and replant them about every 3 to 4 years.
This plant species is found to grow under walnut trees.
For areas in your garden or landscape where you want to keep plants low
(under 3 feet), this is the perfect plant. Select several different hybrids
for variations in size and color. Wonderful companion plants for the
Heucheras are other Heucheras, ferns, hostas and ornamental grasses.
Don't forget the Knockout Sunny Roses will be released in early May and we
will begin shipping them out the week of May 4th just in time for Mother's
Day, so get your order in early!

Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:33:00 +0000

Investment Plants

(Feb. 27, 2009 Newsletter) Steve and I are working a project that I believe
all of you will enjoy. We are adding slideshows to the site. This will
consist of pictures that we have taken over the years that contain
landscaping ideas. Some will be from private landscapes and others come from
commercial ones. You never know where your next great idea for a landscape
project will come from. I have always enjoyed reading gardening magazines,
but you know I really get them for the pictures. So, I thought Steve and I
have taken all of these pictures over the years and why not share them with
our fellow gardeners. I really hope to have it fully up and running by our
next newsletter.
On our Facebook page, there will be some pictures in the photo album, but
you will need to go to our web site for most of the pictures. Steve and I
will be including pictures of own garden as well. It is always a work in
progress. Just when some plants are reaching their mature size, it is time
to relocate them to another part of the yard. We plant something else in
that spot and wonder how we ever enjoyed the garden any other way. I know it
is a silly thought, but we all have those moments.
As all of you know, I am all about investment landscaping. This means
choosing plants that move into other seasons with color and interest. I try
to profile a couple of investments plants in each newsletter. This week, I
would like to make mention of the Cistena Flowering Plum shrub and tree
form. This plant is gorgeous. Plant it in full sun and its deep burgundy
shaded leaves will add a wonderful punch of color to the landscape. The
Cistena shrub form makes an amazingly colorful hedge. This color begins in
spring and carries on through frost when the leaves change to bronze/green
shading. Once it goes dormant and loses its leaves, the reddish brown bark
adds lots of winter interest putting the Cistena Flowering Plum on my list
of investment landscape plants.

I'll see you on Facebook. Until next week..

Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 20:31:00 +0000

Pruning Crape Myrtles

(Feb. 20, 2009 Newsletter) Who is ready for spring time? I generally
appreciate cold weather, but this winter has really lasted way too long with
too much horrible weather. Each warm day (above 40 degrees), I peek out my
office window with hope that I will see blooms on the flowering pear or
flowering cherry trees here at the nursery. Alas, none yet. To me, flowering
pear and flowering cherry trees are the first sure signs of spring. By
planting different flowering cherry varieties, such as Okame, Kwanzan,
Yoshino and Akebono, you can enjoy these flowering trees throughout most of
March, April and even into May.

When you see crape myrtles in bloom, you know summer is in full swing. If
you have any crape myrtles in your landscape, now is the time to prune and
shape them. They always produce the largest and brightest blooms on new
growth. Yes, they can bloom on old wood to some extent, but those blooms are
never as full and brilliant as the ones on new wood. We've all seen crape
myrtles that have been unattended for years and they still bloom, but the
blooms never look that healthy.

If you're looking to plant crape myrtles, then there are a few things you
should know. Crape myrtles are associated with southern landscapes.
Although, many varieties are cold hardy as far north as into zone 6 be sure
to double check the growing zones on the individual plants. Always plant
them in full sun. If they are planted in an area that is only limited sun or
is shaded part of the day by a building or other tree, they will not bloom
as well or at all. That is the number factor when this plant variety doesn't
bloom properly.

I have included a link to the University of Georgia Extension site with a
page full on information about crape myrtles such as planting, watering,
fertilizing and pruning. This is my favorite site on caring for crape
myrtles. It also mentions the many different varieties of this plant with
their height range and flower color.

http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/L331.htm

Because of the longer blooming time of crape myrtles during summer and their
unusual bark adding great winter interest to landscapes, this plant species
is on my list of investment plants.

See you on Facebook!

Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:10:00 +0000

Being Thrifty!

(Originally submitted to Cheryl's Notes February, 2008) This is the perfect time for pulling out all of those planting pots out of the garage or basement. Wipe the cobwebs off and wash them out. Decide which you want to use for inside plants and which for outside plants. If you need to replace a few or just want to update your selection, February is a great month to find “new” ones at the thrift stores and you may even find some lawn statues, bird cages, and other outside decorations as well.

Thrift shops receive lots of donations over December and January and by mid/late January; they are putting “new” things out on the shelves. So many people drop off plant pots and other containers that are just perfect for plants. Many can be found for less than a few dollars each.

There are many thrift stores around such as Goodwill, Salvation Army, St. Vincent de Paul and Value Village are found in many cities across the country. When I have to go on road trips, I try to schedule in a visit to the local thrift shop. If you are fortunate to visit the coastal Maine area, visit the Goodwill Stores. L.L. Bean, based in Freeport, ME, donates (or at least use to) their returns, etc, to the regional Goodwill Stores. Other areas of the country where there are large catalog houses or manufacturers may do the same.

Because of my schedule, I rarely have time to stop at yard or tag sales, so thrift shops over the years have become one of my weaknesses. When visiting thrift stores, be open minded in what you see. You want containers that are sturdy. Will you be able to drill a hole in the bottom for drainage without destroying the container? Clay pots can often be found there. When filling them, remember, don’t fill anything over 12 inches tall with nothing but dirt/potting soil. Place several inches (at least) of Styrofoam peanuts or other light weight items, such as broken tile pieces, etc. This will not only keep the weight of the container lighter, but helps considerably with drainage.

If anyone would like to share any of the interesting conversions that they have made for their gardens from thrift store purchases, drop me a note and they can be shared in a later Cheryl’s Note.

And don’t forget the ultimate thrift find…..asking moms, grandmothers, aunts, other relatives, and friends if they have any plant pots that they aren’t using.

Until next week….
Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:09:00 +0000

Early Spring Maintenance Tips:

The best time for pruning plants is coming up over the next couple of months. Here in Tennessee, Steve and I generally do this over a Saturday or two in early March. Of course, if you have a warm weekend the latter part of February, you might want to go ahead and jump on it as you know, if you don’t it could end up being another month or so before a warm weekend happens again.
Arm yourself with a rake, weed eater or heavy shears, a tool belt, apron with pockets, basket, or pail, filled with clippers, gardening scissors, gardening gloves, old cloths, trash bag(s) and (if available) a small garden saw. Start on one side of your property or garden and work across the yard and then clockwise around your house and other out buildings beginning with the front/main entrance. The point is to be able to go over all areas of your landscape so that you don’t miss plants.
Always begin an area by tackling the larger growing plants, whether trees or shrubs. First cut or saw out all branches that are dead, broken, touching or crossing. Then, if necessary, trim for shape. From the larger trees and shrubs, move onto smaller growing plants, such as ornamental grasses (which you will be cutting to the ground with either the weed eater or heavy shears), roses, evergreen herbs, perennials, ground covers, etc. Remember, if you haven’t pulled out the annuals that were planted last year, it’s time to remove them now.
Once all plants have been pruned, shaped and otherwise cleaned up in an area, rake the clippings into the trash bag and move onto the next. By cleaning up an area completely, if you have to stop that day for some reason before finishing, you can begin with a new area and don’t have to back track.
You know, I find it easier to make sandwiches the night before for lunch, so Steve and I don’t have to completely stop. This way, we get to picnic outside. (It’s much easier!).
As many of you know, Fine Gardening Magazine is one of my favorite gardening mags. Well, now they have developed 2 great learning DVD’s and will have more following. Their first two are on pruning and propagation.
If you want to check them out, I have included the links below.
This link is to the Fine Gardening Pruning DVD-ROM. This is great for the first time homeowner as well as those who just want to update their skill and make sure they are pruning their plants correctly.
http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/041033.html
Here is the Fine Gardening Propagation DVD-ROM. Each season, I receive emails from our customers and members who are interested in how to propagate their plants. Well, now there is something visual that they can get to guide them from how to collect the seeds to growing the plants, techniques of replicating (layering, grafting, dividing, and cuttings), digging and storing woody plants and bulbs.
http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/041036.html

Watch for that warm weekend and I’ll follow up with you next week.
Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:07:00 +0000

Post Gardening Care

(Originally posted to Cheryl's Notes on April 16, 2008)Well, we are now heavily into spring shipping here at the nursery. At least through the next few weeks, I will continue working in the shipping department pulling orders that are ready for packing. Several times during the course of the day, I do go back to my office for lots of coffee and to make a feeble attempt to answer some of my emails. I always enjoy working in the shipping area, but after several years at my desk job, working in the shipping department is quite taxing and with pulling plants can sometimes be as messy as working in the garden.

After getting home, the first thing I wanted to do is wash with a good hand scrub to get all of the dirt off my hands and from underneath my nails. A sugar scrub is just the trick and it works famously after a day in the garden as well. Pour some granulated sugar (not much, a tablespoon should work fine) in the palm of your hand and add just enough olive oil to make a loose mix. Scrub your hands and wrists thoroughly while still dry. Then, rinse in warm water. (Serious Note: if you are diabetic, don’t use any sugar scrubs). I prefer the sugar scrub to a salt scrub as it doesn’t burn on the cuts and nicks that I get from the plants and even paper cuts. If you are diabetic, you can scrub with salt (kosher or regular table salt), corn meal, or baking soda. Anything that has a dense grinding will work with olive oil.

The best way to forget about the aches and pains associated with the physical aspects of gardening is to soak in a tub filled with water and Epsom salts. Epsom salts comes in bags and cartons. Generally, the directions say to add in about 1 or 2 cups of salts. Well……actually you can pour in several times that, especially for the relaxing and muscle soothing effects that you want you will need to go with more. Soak and relax. Even if it is only for 10 minutes, SOAK! Your muscles will thank you. You will be calmer and your attitude much better. It’s like a mini vacation for your body.

While I’m on the topic of taking care of ourselves with natural products, let me offer a couple of other favorites.

For any age and complexion type, an oatmeal scrub is the absolute best you can do. It will leave your face feeling so soft. Just take a cup or so of oatmeal, the regular cooking kind, and put it in a blender, food processor, or put it in a zippy type plastic bag and squash it. You want it in smaller bits, but not completely pulverized. When you are ready to scrub your face, just put a small amount, roughly just over a tablespoon, in your palm and mix in enough water to form a paste and scrub your forehead, around the eyes, nose, cheeks, chin and neck. Remember, upward strokes on the neck. Rise with warm water and pat dry. You may not even feel the need for moisturizer. If you have complexion issues, it’s great. With continued use, it can really make a difference and after a day in the sun, it can truly help to take the sting out of the burn.

To really feel like you are pampering yourself, boil some water, pour it in a glass or ceramic bowl, toss in some fresh or dried rosemary leaves, lean over the bowl and cover your head and the bowl with a towel. Rosemary steamers are great for a quick pick me up and, again, if you have complexion issues, it will help with regular use.

Okay, I have gotten off the subject of gardening. But, when you’ve been outside working all day on Saturday and feel a little rough, you’ll thank me.

Until next time……Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cherylsnotes@greenwoodnursery.com

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:04:00 +0000

Fertilizing: Yes, No, Maybe!!!

My staff asked me if I would address fertilizing this week. Our office receives many emails and phone calls on this very topic. Customers and site members often send in pictures of their plants to see if we can work with them to figure out what is going wrong. Even before looking at the picture we need to know how the plants have been cared for, such as watering cycle, lawn care, and if, what and how often fertilize was applied.

Plants will exhibit the same characteristics whether or not they have been over or under watered. It is a matter of realizing how often the plants are being watered and/or checking the soil to see if it is dry or wet, and, then doing the opposite.

Lawn care is necessary to know as many people plant trees and shrubs in the middle of their lawn. All herbicides, pesticides, and fertilize applied onto lawns to make them green and grow soaks down into the root system of these plants and they are directly affected by these chemicals.

Fertilize, ah to fertilize! This is the one thing that I feel is most commonly misused or should I say abused. Maybe it is due to lack of knowledge on it. To a new homeowner or new gardener, I am sure looking at shelves full of so many different products is overwhelming and somewhat intimidating. Before I go into what can be used, I want to begin with what one should not do.

Never, ever, ever, never:

1.Fertilize without watering in afterwards
2.Allow fertilize or the dust to settle and stay on any part of the plant (always wash off)
3.Spray water soluble fertilizers, such as Miracle Grow, over the tree or shrub with the reasoning that it will be absorbed through the leaves
4.Fertilize trees, shrubs, or perennials during the heat of summer or drought periods
5.Dump fertilize on the ground near a plant with the attitude that “Oh, it will eventually soak in”
6.Apply multiple fertilizers
7.Begin a fertilize program without first testing your soil’s pH
8.Fertilize plants year round

I know, no one wants to hear it, but soil testing is a necessary evil if fertilizing is part of your routine. They should be run about every 3 to 5 years so the soil structure can be amended properly.

Remember the 3 R’s on fertilizing:

Right blend
Right amount
Right time of year

Now, you ask, “But, Cheryl, if I can’t just dump fertilize onto the ground, how will I know if, when and how I should fertilize?” Not to worry, I have taken care of that for you. This link to the North Carolina State University Extension Site gives everything you always wanted to know about fertilizing, but were afraid to ask. It also covers natural fertilizers with enough information so you can decide if and when you might use them.

Be sure to print out this site for keeping on file for easy access.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/fertilizing.html

Over the next few weeks I will be writing about how and when to use mulch and the highs and lows of landscaping around decks.

Until next time……Cheryl
To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cherylsnotes@greenwoodnursery.com .

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:50:00 +0000

Coloring Woodland Spaces

Isn’t spring great? It really brightens up wooded areas with lots of colors just bursting out saying “Hey, look at me!” I think that is what sparks us to want to add color to our own shaded patches. The artist part of us comes out in wanting to splash color into our surroundings and the fun part is that it doesn’t stop with spring just as Claude Monet did at his garden in Giverny. This is a fall picture looking across the famous pond at the oriental bridge. The pond as well as each of his plantings was carefully planned by Monet. Over one hundred years old and (of course with regular maintenance) and the gardens still look as beautiful today as I can imagine that they did when he first created them.

I have put together a listing of plants from groundcovers, to perennials, shrubs and trees that will grow in shaded zones. Now, most will produce spring color while a few others will just add something special to the blend.
Strategically placing plants with color can give a whole new look to your woodland or shaded areas. It’s especially easy if you have a digital camera. You can take pictures of the areas you want to enhance with color or texture, print them out or just study them on the screen and you can visualize how you would like to see the woodlands as the seasons unfold.

Groundcovers for shade:

• Ajuga
• Pachysandra
• Vinca
• Cotoneaster (creeping)
• moss

Perennials for shade:

• Ferns
• Tiarella
• Anemone
• Aster
• Astilbe
• Dicentra
• Helleborus
• Heuchera
• Hypericum
• Hosta
• Solomon’s seal
• Carex
• Liriope

Shrubs for shade:

• Mountain laurels
• Sambucus
• Azaleas
• Rhododendrons
• Bamboo
• Carolina allspice
• Shrub dogwood
• Hydrangeas
• Nandina
• Holly

Trees for shade:

• White flowering dogwood
• Red bud
• Serviceberry
• Sourwood
• Cedar
• Hemlock
• White pine
• Sycamore
• Green ash
• Poplars

Don’t try to do your entire project at one time. Working on it over several years allows you to see that you are on the right track for what you want as the outcome.

And don’t forget about ways to move through your wooded area. Bark mulch walkways and stepping stones make great paths. Benches, whether wood, stone or metal, give excellent reasons to sit and enjoy from the inside out. Rocks of all sizes and even boulders look stately with moss growing over them and are right at home in wooded and shaded spaces.

I hope this has given you some ideas to build on to make your own woodland area as beautiful as a Monet painting.

Until next time……Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cherylsnotes@greenwoodnursery.com

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:45:00 +0000

Mulch: Why, When, Where, and with What?

(Originally submitted to Cheryl's Notes 3-26-2008) Mulch has to be the single best thing you can do for your plants and have such grand results from. You can take a drab landscape, apply mulch around the plants and garden areas and by evening, the same drab landscape looks as though it is maintained professionally. That’s when we sign and know that we’ve done a good job (pat on the back).

The sole purpose of mulch is to protect the soil. It should allow enough air space and for water to percolate down to the ground. There are 2 types of mulches: Organic and Inorganic.

Organic Mulches consist of:

Wood chips
Aged compost
Aged manure
Shredded Leaves
Grass clippings
Pine bark
Pine needles
Pecan shells (if you’re near a factory)
Straw (not hay as it has weed seed)
Groundcover (phlox, vinca, purple wintercreeper, pachysandra, liriope, mondo grass, etc)

Inorganic Mulches consist of:

Rocks
Pebbles
Gravel
Crushed stone
Crushed lava
Black plastic
Landscape cloth
Ground rubber tires
Other recycled materials

The reasons to mulch can go on and on. However, let’s talk about a few of them. It creates enough of a defined area around trees and shrubs so that anyone with a mower or weed eater will avoid damaging the plants, and that maybe the most common reason as to the demise of younger plants. Mulching reduces and often eliminates the weed population. It insulates the soil by keeping it at a more even temperature, which is especially helpful during the spring temperature fluctuations. Mulch keeps the soil immediately around the plants cooler and moister. Organic mulch decomposes into the soil building up the nutrient values, thus reducing the need for applying fertilizer. It prevents the soil from compacting and crusting. Mulch helps to grow healthier plants and makes the landscape look neater, cleaner and more attractive.

Studies show that trees and larger shrubs without any grass up to 3 feet away from the base of the plants will increase the growth of the plants.

Too little mulch will not be very effective; on the other hand, too much mulch can kill a good thing (namely plants). So, what’s a person to do? Trial and error? No, that’s takes way too long.
Rather than going through a long drawn out explanation of why, when, where and with what, let’s keep it simple, safe and easy to remember!!!

The Triple 3’s to Mulching-

3 inches thick
3 feet out from the base of the plant
3 inch doughnut around the base of the plants (see below)

So, that’s 3 deep, 3 out and 3 for the doughnut. Easy enough!!! Now, what about this doughnut? The doughnut is the welled area at the base of the plant. For proper air circulation and watering, 3 inches (roughly) is needed between the trunk of the plant and where the mulch actually begins. Mulch should never come in contact with the trunk of a shrub or tree, even in a garden setting. Stay away from the volcano look. It is a sure fire way to kill your plants. You want to keep the mulch at an even level all the way through, whether it’s going 3 feet out from the trunk or in a large landscaped area. Remember: Keep It Level

How often to apply mulch really depends on the type of mulch you have chosen. Something light such as grass clippings or shredded leaves will have to be added to quite frequently as it decomposes quickly. Heavier mulches may only need to be freshened once a year. Mulch applied in spring at 3 inches may decompose over summer, so when fall comes around, you will want to check it and possibly add more to bring it back up to the 3 inches to go over winter.

What mulch goes where! Well, I don’t recommend using gravel or other stones as mulch in a planting area between a walk and building foundation. Several things are wrong with this picture. There are too many materials with a high level of lime. Lime often leeches out of the concrete blocks used in most foundations, of course, it’s the dusting on the gravel and what are concrete walkways made of? You got it. Using this is fine as long as you don’t put any plants there. Container gardening will work, but no ground planting.

Also, think about where inorganic mulches will be used before you purchase. For example, you wouldn’t want to use some inorganic mulch around plants that are in full sun. Many of the inorganic types, especially rocks, gravel, and crushed lava will absorb and then radiate the heat. This can damage plants if not burn them. For areas in full sun, it is best to use organic mulches.

Well, there you have it. The Why, When, Where and with What of Mulch. As long as you remember the Triple 3’s to Mulching, you can’t go wrong.

After absorbing this mulch information, you are probably now wondering how much mulch to get. You are so going to love this. At the Clemson University Extension Site, I found the calculation to determine the amount of mulch to buy.

You will need to calculate the surface area that you want to cover (square footage).
There are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. One cubic yard will cover 324 square feet with one inch of mulch.

So…..
Calculate the square footage of the area you want to cover.
Take your surface square footage and multiply it by the depth you want to mulch (remember we talked about 3 inches)
Now, that total is divided by 324 which will give you the total number of cubic yards that you will need for the depth that you want.

If you are purchasing from a company that makes mulch you can let them know how many cubic yards you need. But, if you purchase bags of mulch, aged compost or aged manure, they are probably in bags of about 3 cubic feet. Be sure to check the amount on the bags.

Until next time……Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at Cherylsnotes@greenwoodnursery.com.

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:43:00 +0000

Spring into Action!

(Originally submitted to Cheryl's Notes 3-5-2008) Spring is almost here. We are still having freezing days followed by days with temperatures in the upper 70’s. The weather is just nuts this time of year. So…what can we do outside? It’s time to aerate your lawn. That’s what you should be doing if your lawn is healthy and gorgeous. But, wait!!!! What if your lawn is not even respectable? I think most of us have neglected our lawns at some point. Before going to a lot of expense in fighting with it, go back to the start. Get your soil tested. The results should give you what you will need to bring your lawn back to good health.

Where does one obtain soil tests? Check with your local Agriculture Extension Office, Conservation District Office (also known as NRCS) or Soil Conservation Service. They can be found in your local phone directory under your state’s Department of Agriculture listing.

Here is how you can get started: read this link from the Virginia Cooperative Extension site which clearly explains and shows you how to take soil samples (be in the know before you go to the next step http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/compost/452-129/submitting.html , phone your local extension or conservation office to obtain soil sample bags or boxes, collect your samples and submit them. When the results come back, you should have the amendments and amounts you need to mix into your lawn.

Once you have applied the necessary amendments, if you haven’t already, either aerate or lightly till the ground to break it up. Now, you are ready to spread your grass seed. Where do you find grass seed for your area? A quick visit to your local hardware store or garden center will prove beneficial here. The sales person will need to know if your yard area has lots of shade, is mostly sun, etc. in order to help you select the best blend for your yard. Measurements of your yard will be needed to know how much seed you will need. Before you leave with your grass seed, be sure to get planting and care instructions.

Sow your grass seed according to the information given to you. You may need to cover the area with a light layer of straw to help with germination. The straw will help to hide the seeds from hungry birds, heavy winds, washing away from rain, as well as, creating a cool, moist environment for the seeds to sprout. Once the seeds are sprouting, you can remove the straw. However, leaving it to decompose is good for your new lawn.

Now, you have grass sprouting, so how much and how often do you water it? Well, that is a relative question, although, you will grow healthier grass by watering deeper less frequently. Here is a helpful guide to watering your lawn and landscape.
http://www.wateruseitwisely.com/waterguide/index.shtml

Now you have the basics on how to build a healthy lawn. Get out there and “grow” it!!!

Until next time…….. Cheryl

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:38:00 +0000

Xeriscaping

After such extreme temperatures and drought over last summer, everyone is searching for plants that not only require less attention, but less water. Just planting cactus and other succulents isn’t the key, but Xeriscaping is. So, let’s learn exactly what this fun to say word is really about.

Xeriscape translates to dry landscape. That is somewhat deceiving as it is not about dry landscaping at all, but gardening efficiently. When we use proper techniques to landscape and garden, we actually save money, time, energy and water over the life of the garden.
So…let’s learn.
The basic principles of Xeriscaping are:

Planning
Soil preparation
Reducing turf areas
Plant selection
Proper irrigation
Mulching

In planning, group plants according to their water and lighting needs. Place taller plants in back areas with shorter growing ones in the front. Remember, it is better to water plants infrequently, yet deeper than to water lightly and often.

Some of the links below will offer you some wonderful plant varieties that are low maintenance and perfect for Xeriscaping. Here are some of my favorites: rosemary, sage, oregano, lavender, chives, thyme, Russian sage, yarrow, salvia, lamb’s ear, gaillardia, junipers, spiraea, lilac, daylily, honeysuckle, sedum, ameria, vitex, hibiscus (althea, rose of Sharon), Siberian peashrub (caragana) and ornamental grasses. One thing about ornamental grasses is that during their first year in the ground, they do need watering regularly. After establishing their root system, they become almost drought tolerant.

Mulch should be applied in late spring/early summer to help keep the ground cool and moist. Good choices for mulch are shredded bark mulch, pine needles (although be careful with this one as mold can build up underneath), straw, and even aged compost. Any type of rock, including lava stones, should only be used in shaded areas. Using rocks as mulch in sunny to partially sunny areas will result in too much heat build up and often kills the plants.

The links below have been in my favorites for a long time. I refer back to them all the time and I want to share all of the information on Xeriscaping that they offer. They are filled with wonderful ideas that will help new and old gardeners alike to create more efficient outdoor spaces in their own little corner of the world.

Until next time………..
Cheryl

If these links don't show up to click on, please copy/paste them in the web address box.

http://www.xeriscape.org/whatis.html (Colorado Water Wise Council)

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/Garden/07228.html (How to)

http://www.denverwater.org/cons_xeriscape/xeriscape/garden2002.html (bedding plans)

http://www.denverwater.org/cons_xeriscape/xeriscape/photos.html (before & after pics)

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/xeriscape/xeriscape.html (How to)

http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/B1073.htm (How to)

http://www.xeriscape.org/ (great pathway picture)

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:37:00 +0000

Easy to Grow Shrub Roses!

Each week, I receive emails asking how to care for their shrub roses. Shrub roses, which include the Knockout Varieties, are great to work with. They require little effort and hardly any ongoing attention and yet, they bloom gorgeous blooms from April (in many zones) until hit by a hard frost in fall. For the color and life they add to gardens and landscapes for such an extended period, they offer one of the best values around.

Shrub roses, like regular roses, do enjoy a pH of around 6.0 to 7.0. Most much all rose varieties require about 6 hours of sunlight each day, which is preferably morning sunlight. Protection from the hot afternoon summer sun will help to keep them happier. It is a good idea to watch the sunlight in the area you want to plant shrub roses to make certain that there is not only enough light, but afternoon protection.

They grow best in areas with high organic matter content, so you can’t go wrong by mixing in aged manure and/or aged compost into the soil. When planting shrub roses, dig holes 18 to 24 inches deep, place the plant’s root system (minus pot if container grown or minus plastic if bare root), fill in hole with a blending of the soil and organic matter up to the root collar. Then, mound around the base of the plant with aged manure, aged compost, or wood bark mulch. Be sure to add more organic matter or mulch each spring. Water the plants at least once a week during the growing season. Do not water roses by overhead irrigation or other type of sprinkler system. Morning watering is best for shrub roses as it will allow time for the sun to dry any moisture on the leaves.

Organic matter is the best to give the plants the nutrients that they need, but supplement fertilize (if you use it) should be applied in early spring after the shrubs have begun leafing out.

Pruning is a big topic, so let’s address that now. Early spring, before the shrubs begin to leaf out, prune out all dead, broken, damaged, touching, or crossing branches. Once accomplished, the plants can be clipped for shape, which is a personal issue as some like the natural look while others prefer a rounded manicured look.

A couple of common problems of roses to look for are cane borers and canker.

Cane borers are the larvae of Sawflies and Carpenter Bees. They lay their eggs on the tips of newly pruned stems in late spring. The eggs hatch and eat their way through the stems towards the center of the plant. If they reach the center of the plant, it can kill it. If you notice a small hole in the center of a pruned cane, it is a sign that the plant may contain borers. Brown sections on the stems/canes, dying foliage at the top of plant, wilting and yellowing leaves that drop off also can indicate borers. Treatment of borers is simply to prune the cane just below the infected area until you see solid greenish white in the center of the cane.

Rose cane canker is a fungus that spreads down the canes and will can cause girdling of the plant and/or lead up to the death of the plant. I have a link to the University of Illinois Extension site with a report on rose cankers complete with pictures for diagnosing.
http://web.aces.uiuc.edu/vista/pdf_pubs/626.pdf

These are common issues with shrub and other hybrid roses that one should be aware of. I hope you have found it helpful.

Until next time……Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cherylsnotes@greenwoodnursery.com .

noreply@blogger.com (Greenwood Nursery) — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:02:00 +0000

Drainage Problems?

This is a common issue, especially in new developments where the topsoil has been scraped away and the only thing left behind is compacted clay. There are actually some options.

Let’s discuss.

If you are in an area that typically has water restrictions over the summer months, placing barrels under your downspouts will catch the rainwater so you can water your garden over drier periods. Barrels will prevent runoff from the downspouts which often collects within a 6 (or so) foot radius of the downspout. Retailers can be found by searching for rain barrels on www.google.com if you think that this may solve the problem.

Is the rain just hitting the ground and running off? Then, you need to be building up your lawn to make it healthier. Remember, weeds can’t grow in healthy soil (that’s the incentive). Lawns can be built up by tilling in organic matter, such as aged compost, aged manure mix, straw, etc. Aeration can also help water soak in. Sometimes it can take several attempts of aeration to see results. Soil softeners can help the ground absorb water. Like aeration, it often requires several applications before results can be seen.

French drains are made by digging deep trenches. In the bottom of the trench is placed a layer of rock, followed by black perforated piping covered with a weed cloth and then covering the piping with rock to the top of trench. French drains are (or can be) complicated issues, so a professional should be consulted to install them.

Dry creek beds are beautiful ways to direct excess water to where you want it to go. They are slightly dug out beds or paths, placing landscape fabric in the depression followed by pebbles/gravel/larger rocks. In some cases, the water’s path is already clear in your yard, so use that to your advantage and create a dry creek bed and then landscape around it. It can be a great focal point as well as utility.

When working to alleviate drainage problems, keep in mind to route the water to an area that will not pose any further problems. One place is to your curb, but you should check with your development or city regulations first. Should you have a drainage ditch (common in most developments) bordering one side of your property, route the water to it. Never route drain water to a neighbors property.

Of course, if you can’t drain it, use it!!! Where the water lays, create a bog garden. Plants that will work in such an area are: vinca, spiraea, viburnum, goat’s beard, phlox, ferns (shade), daylilies, irises, bamboo (clumping varieties), red twig or other shrub dogwoods, acorus ogon grass, french pussy willow, nishiki willow, giant pussy willow, solomon’s seal, liriope, maples, green ash, bald cypress, river birch, elm, white pine, hemlock, sourwood, tulip poplar, blueberry, cranberry, red chokeberry, sambucus, holly, spicebush, oaks, red bud, serviceberry, hostas (shade), anemones, and gaillardia. If you have a really marshy area, check at your local fish store for pond plants.

One last thing before I leave off this week. My daughter, Cydney, wanted something on an easy way to compost. Well, Cyd, I have come across a great way to compost without getting overly involved. Dig a trench about 12 to 14 inches deep where you plan to plant or create a garden next spring. Over spring and summer, toss in your kitchen wastes such as vegetable and fruit peelings, tea bags, coffee grounds, banana skins, corn husks, fish (bones, scales and heads), seafood scraps, and egg shells (though they need to be crushed into fine particles).

Do not add grease, oil, fats, ashes, seeds, or bones (other than fish or seafood).
Once you toss in your scraps, cover with a sprinkling of soil and then you will be ready for the next layer. Also, covering each layer helps to keep the local wildlife out of your compost trench. You want to be able to top your trench off with at least 6 inches of soil. Be sure to leave room for that. Over the summer and fall, the compost will “cook” so that by next spring you will have a wonderfully nutritious place for planting your new perennials or rows of vegetables.

That’s a lot of information for one setting.

Until next time…….Cheryl

To respond to or suggest topics you would enjoy reading about, drop me an email at cheryl@greenwoodnursery.com .