What, exactly, is a Victorian? Many of us use the term to describe an architectural style, however, Victorian is not really a style but a period in history. The Victorian era dates from about 1840 to 1900. The economic opportunities of the industrial age created a newly rising middle class, which would change the face of the country forever. They lived comfortable lives and as the wealth of the nation increased many were able to enjoy the pleasures of the good life in beautiful homes. During this time, industrialization brought many innovations in architecture, resulting in a variety of Victorian styles, each with its own distinctive features.

Early Victorian structures were relatively simple in style, while those built after the Civil War became more complicated. These include Italianate, Second Empire, Stick-Eastlake,  Gothic Revival, and Queen Anne. Generally, Italianate style structures have flat roof lines, corniced eaves, angled bay windows and Corinthian-columned porches. Stick-Eastlake structures often include square bays, flat roof lines and free-style decorations. Victorian Gothic buildings featured arches, pointed windows, and other details borrowed from the middle ages. Queen Anne’s have a gabled roof, shingled insets, angled bay windows under the gable and usually a tower.

The homes were planned from the inside out – the layout of the rooms, the distinctive purpose of each room and the traffic pattern determined the outward look. Builders often borrowed characteristics from several different styles, creating unique, and sometimes quirky, mixes. The Victorians drew deeply from history, nature, geometry, theory, and personal inspiration to create their designs.

One quality of Victorian homes is a great deal of ornamentation and elaborate exterior features, with each style using its own form. Another Victorian quality is the abundance of extensions such as wraparound porches with extensive carvings, expansive bay windows and later, they added towers and turrets.

Early Victorian homes were painted in middle earth tones, browns, dark red, dark grey, while later  Victorian homes are colorful, elaborate, and bold. Queen Anne houses were coated in bright colors of yellow, rose or pink, light blues and above all contrasting trim colors designed  to emphasize the ornate construction details.

The next time you are looking at Chesapeake Bay properties take a closer look at the Victorian age houses. The best examples of Victorian homes will be in the Eastern Shore towns of Easton, Cambridge, Chestertown, Oxford and Saint Michaels. In our next post we will emphasize the different styles.

Home  House  Abode  Dwelling  Shelter  Residence  Domicile

In our last post, we discussed condominiums, as a form of ownership, not a building style, which left unanswered the question of what are the common forms of residences and what do they look like. Chesapeake Bay homes come in several distinct types that are categorized as follows:

Let’s start with the most popular, the single family home, a detached dwelling on any size lot or acreage. 

The second category is multiple or connected dwellings, generally connected on one or both sides resulting in a duplex, triplex or quadruplex building.

Villa – A one-story unit, it may have a partial story or loft up.
Townhouse – Two to three full stories, the ground level usually contains a garage with an additional room.
Patio Home – A hybrid combination of connected villa style houses, with a deeded obligation to pay for outside maintenance, that is provided by the developer or a community organization.

The remaining category covers buildings containing “apartment”* style living units on one or more levels.

Garden Style –  A two or three story rectangular building with individual living spaces on one level.  Garden style units generally include a substantial amount of open landscaped ground.
Mid Rise** – A four to eight story building with individual dwelling units on one level. New midrise buildings often   reserve the top stories for multi level penthouses.

High Rise** – Any building between 8 and 40 stories is considered a high rise.  Buildings taller than 40 levels are classified as Skyscrapers. 

*The word apartment is another confusing name like condominium. The original apartments, dating back to the 16th century were called flats, a separate unit of a suite of rooms in a communal residential building. Later on in the middle 1800’s, this living style became popular in high-density areas of Europe and Great Britain. From the very beginning, the flat was owned along with shared rights of the common areas. Later on, renting and leasing became popular and nowadays, we associate apartments with rental use, rather than ownership.  In summary, the word apartment relates to common or shared living in a singular building.

**These are generally accepted definitions used to describe Chesapeake Bay properties; however, architects, urban planners and city building authorities all have their own formulas or guidelines to categorize the structures. For instance, mid rise building sizes may be subject to ratios of the street width to the building height. The difference between a high rise and a skyscraper is determined by the influence of winds and evacuation time during a fire.

A condominium, or “condo,” is strictly a form ownership. Years ago, ski and other vacation resort developers constructed multiple dwelling units for purchase, and they devised the condominium concept to establish a means of managing and operating them independently, after completion. From the very beginning, this concept was misunderstood and the word condo came to mean any multiple unit residence, further reinforced later on, when condominiums were constructed as apartment style buildings in urban areas.

In summary, a condominium may be a detached house, townhouse or villa, a high rise or low rise building, an office suite, a retail store, commercial space or even a boat dock (dockominium). The next time you want to find a Chesapeake Bay property, be sure and ask your real estate agent to inform you of any ownership regulations if the property is a condominium.

1- Location
2- Water depth MLW (mean 19 year, low water)
3- Distance to big water (the bay or a large river)
4- Water traveling conditions (sand bars, shoals, severe depth changes. etc)
5- Elevation above the water
6- Location of 100 foot (now 200 feet) “Buffer Zone” (100 year mean high tide)
7- Nature and scope of the water view, protected vegetation
8- Ability to “perc,” type of septic system and location of septic field
9- Unique site features
10- Permitted building envelope
11- Number of buildings allowed
12- Number of bedrooms permitted
14- Size and configuration of dock and piers
15- Other zoning and building rules
 
There is a variety of special considerations when purchasing waterfront property in the Chesapeake Bay region of Maryland. For example, all land located within 1,000 feet of tidal waters is considered part of the Chesapeake Bay "Critical Area" and any portion of property located within 100 feet of the Mean High Water Line of tidal wetlands and tributary streams is subject to "Buffer Zone" protection.

Also, be careful of using just acreage as a value guide. A 5-acre lot may have the same value as a 10-acre lot, if only one building can be constructed.  Often a buyer would prefer to have a smaller site and be willing to pay more than if it were much larger. There is an old saying that "a lot is a lot is a lot."

If anyone has any questions about this and are thinking of purchasing waterfront property, let us know and we can help you with this complex process.

410-829-6061 or email: thehalls@chesapeakelifestyles.com

According to all of the reference books that we could find, a Mansion is described as:

So Representative Dingell from his bully pulpit has decided that more than ten million families, including many of us on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, are going into a penalty box, supported by his distorted and corrupted use of the English language. Seems to us that he would be more effective attacking the major source of carbon emissions by working to develop clean fuels, rather than brand a third of our population as wasteful and extravagant, just to get his concept accepted. Click Here to continue.

Gloeocapsa Magma is a species of algae that causes black streaking and discoloration on asphalt/fiberglass shingles. The black staining is caused by the growth of algae and fungus spoors that land on houses. The streaks and discoloration you are now seeing is an accumulation of their dead, dark colored cells.

Trees do not have to be present for this air-born menace to set up camp on your roof. This alga produces its own energy source and feeds on inorganic materials, such as the materials in shingles. All they need to grow is the nutrients from both the dirt on your roof and the limestone granules on the shingles. Heat and moisture help them turn your whole roof black.

An alga is an organic material and feeds only on inorganic material. Fungus and mildew need organic material to survive. So if you can reduce the algae on your roof, you will also reduce the growth of fungus and mildew. Keeping your roof free of twigs, leaves, and other
debris will also help reduce the growth of fungus and mildew. Cleaning and controlling algae and fungus growth can add to the life of your roof.

Roof shingles come in a wide variety of quality levels. The higher quality shingles have been treated to prevent algae and fungus growth. This treatment consists of adding varying amounts of copper and zinc granules and petroleum distillates to the shingles.

If you clean the roof yourself, be careful of products that are just bleach or chlorine. Using these can leave your roof streaked. It also can dry out the shingles and cause premature cracking. Strong cleaning solutions will also kill grass and shrubbery. Look for deck cleaners that contain bleach such as oxygen bleach, a non-toxic powder that mixes with water.

Wait for a cool, overcast day to apply the oxygen bleach solution. Do not let the solution dry. After it has soaked for 30 minutes, brush the solution with a stiff broom or brush. Always aim the rinsing hose down the roof, not up under the shingles.

Resist the advice of your neighbor to rent or buy a pressure washer. This common method of washing and scrubbing may get rid of the algae temporarily, but it will also damage the shingles.

If you “don’t do” roof cleaning, (as our grandchildren say), call a qualified roof cleaning company. But you still need to ask if the products they use will cause streaking or grass and shrub damage. Roof cleaning companies can also provide preventative maintenance services that can prevent future algae and fungus growth.