Chie's Travelogues

Italian Travelogue #9: Pompeii / Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 17 Nov 2013 00:27:00 +0000

After another early wake-up call and breakfast, we said goodbye to Sorrento and went towards Pompeii, the opulent Roman town which was preserved by layers of ash from the disastrous eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in AD79. It was a bittersweet day as it was the last day of the tour.

Pompeii is an excavation site and outdoor museum of the ancient Roman settlement. This site is considered to be one of the few sites where an ancient city has been preserved in detail – everything from jars to tables to paintings and people were frozen in time, yielding an unprecedented opportunity to see how the people lived 2000 years ago. We met our guide who told us that this was a sacred site – the end of the world as they knew it for 20,000 inhabitants. The hot ash that buried the town in a way protected it also for future excavations.

We began our tour around the ruins and saw everything from residences to temples, from bakeries and other commercial buildings to baths. It was eerie to look at the deserted streets and picture the flurry of activity the bustling city once hosted. Lonely columns that once were part of regal buildings now stood at attention to a world long since passed. Once busy town squares are now shells of their former glory. The mountain itself stood in the background of a street it once strangled with its volcanic ash.

The cast capturing the moment of death of some unsuspecting citizens of Pompeii on that fateful day of the eruption of Vesuvius was displayed in the museum nearby the square.

Pompeii was everything I expected it to be and more! You could almost picture the Romans walking around in their togas.

Word of caution: Keep in mind that Mt. Vesuvius is an active volcano and can erupt at any time. However, scientists have devised a system to detect impending eruptions, so it’s fairly safe to browse through the ruins without fear of falling ash and lapili (pumice). However, you should protect yourself from pickpockets in the vicinity, and anywhere else in Italy for that matter, as you normally would when traveling.

Anyhow, after leaving Pompeii, Shona then handed out the trip questionnaires and talked about why she thought Insight Tours were such good value (I think she was preaching to the converted for the most part, but she did a good job).

Afterwards, the smooth motorway led us back to the Eternal City of Rome, our last stop. Shona took a poll of flight times and decided there would be 2 scheduled trips to the airport and told us the times to be ready. The bus arrived at the Sheraton Roma at about 3:30pm and we were told to be at the lobby by 6:15pm for our farewell dinner.

We got to the hotel and had a nap. For the farewell dinner, we were driven to Papa Rex’s restaurant in the neighborhood of the Vatican, which Shona told us the Pope used to have his birthday party at every year, and the wine they serve is from the Vatican Vineyards. We had our picture taken with a Roman soldier at the door (later to be hawked to us). The food was good as was the ever-flowing wine. There was entertainment from several singers who mingled with the group.

After a hearty meal and easy camaraderie, it was time for the last bus ride back to the hotel. We were all in a really good mood from the food, the wine and the ambiance of the night, so out came the song by Dean Martin and we all sang “Amore” on the way back to the hotel. It was the most perfect ending to the most perfect vacation!

Departure from Rome

Arrivederci Roma! Woke up really early and took the early departure transfer from the hotel to the airport and waited for the British Airways counters to open. Being one of the first passengers to check in, we had tons of time to check out the duty-free shops and to have some breakfast. Shortly before boarding time, we slowly inched our way towards our gate. Intuition told me, however, that something was not right. When I asked one of the airport personnel, praying that he speaks English, he told me to check the monitors because our gate has been changed. Sure enough, our gate has been changed from G4 to G14. Agh!!! So Ricky and I made a dash for our gate, just in time before boarding time. Whew!

Our plane arrived at London Heathrow ahead of schedule but we had to stay at the tarmac for an hour due to non-availability of gate. That’s how busy Heathrow really is! If you can recall, in my last travelogue to the UK, I mentioned that Heathrow is one of the busiest airports, if not THE busiest airport, in the world. Some of the passengers missed their connecting flights due to the delay. But we didn’t have to worry because our layover time was 3 hours.

Anyhow, the return flight to Vancouver was uneventful. Since Ricky slept most of the time during the entire flight, I made use of my 9-hour flight by watching the movies, “Shrek Forever After”; “Date Night” starring Steve Carrell and Tina Fey; and “Marmaduke”. The flight was a smooth one, and we stepped out of the plane to a brisk but comfortable Vancouver weather.

A Few Closing Thoughts

All in all, we had a MAH-VELOUS time! We saw more on 10 days than I could have ever imagined. What I have seen has awakened new places in my heart and my wanderlust and, yes, my suitcase. This was a fast-paced tour, but for us it was the right way to do it. We met some great people, ate great food, drank wonderful wine, and were immersed in a country that is truly a "step back in time". We will have these wonderful memories forever and a ton of photos in case we forget. All in all, it was indeed a memorable trip.

I’m quite sure where my next trip will take me – Spain, Portugal, France and Italy (yes, Trevi Fountain does indeed work!). And quite frankly, I can’t wait to start packing.

So folks, this concludes our Italian holiday. Hope you enjoyed reading my travelogue just as I enjoyed reminiscing memorable moments all over again. Ciao for now!

Italian Travelogue #8: Amalfi Coast / Positano / Isle of Capri

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 16 Nov 2013 19:27:00 +0000

With the dawn of our next-to-last full day in Italy, we prepared to leave for the Amalfi Coast, Positano and the magical Isle of Capri. This was the day I was looking forward to.

After our breakfast in the elegant dining room, we boarded our mini buses for the trip to the Coast of Amalfi. The Amalfi Coast is a beautiful and renowned stretch of mountainous coastline south of Naples. The peninsula is dotted with picturesque fishing villages and towns clinging giddily to cliffs. It also makes a good base for exploring other popular destinations, one of which is Positano, to which we were headed.

The views of Sorrento from the cliffs high above were breathtaking. The first several miles were an adventure as we watched Marco deal with the insane drivers in the area. The drive along the coast took us on hairpin turns and switchbacks and the width of the road was completely inadequate, especially in a motor coach of our type and especially around the sharp corners. Whenever we and another large vehicle met, it was nearly impossible to either pass or negotiate a hairpin turn. Compounding this was the fact that much of the road was on a cliff 200 or 300 feet over the ocean, and if you were sitting on the ride side of the bus against the window [as I was], it won’t be an exaggeration to look directly out the window straight down and see nothing but the ocean and cliff 300 feet below you.

Notwithstanding the hairy ride and a white-knuckle drive with a winding two-lane road and dramatic cliffs dropping away from the road, it didn’t matter because the views were to die for – almost literally! It was breathtaking, to say the least.

We finally got to the beautiful town of Positano on the tip of the Amalfi Coast, a dramatically picture-perfect town clinging to the cliff face as if about to cascade into the turquoise waters below. The main part of the town sits in an enclave in the hills leading down to the coast. The vistas were everything I thought they would be – and more! As Shona aptly said, “Positano affects you when you’re there, but it affects you more after you’ve left”. How very true! It has invaded my soul after I have left. I still pine for it – until this day.

We went down to the beach, had some pictures taken and went back up to do some shopping. Positano is one of those famed hill-clinging towns which is literally dug into the side of a cliff and terraces itself from the beach to the top of a small mountain. There are some main streets, but most of the shopping is along pedestrian alleys and walkways. The lay of the land is vertical, not horizontal; therefore, for those people with limited mobility and those who are infirm, short of step or breath, they might want to reconsider traipsing around this picturesque town.

It might be apropos for me to say at this point that if you haven’t already learned the International Rule of Inaccessibility, this is a good time to learn it. What makes a city into the kind of haven that the rich and famous like to visit is its inaccessibility to the masses. All the great resort cities of the world, especially in the Mediterranean, are hard to get to. This being understood, Positano is the center for the rich and famous along the Amalfi Coast. It is an adorable city and the stores sell fun things. It’s like a movie set where stores display their wares to enchant….. and sell. Flowers pour out of flowerpots, dishes are piled up on stairwells, cottons fly in the slight breeze, and lemons are dancing everywhere. It’s like paradise on earth!

And for the sheer variety of pictures one could take along with their relative beauty, there wasn't a place I had been to that offered this kind of scenery. It was spine tingling. I didn't want to leave. As I told it to some of my friends -- “I left my heart in Positano…” The entire experience was exactly as I had pictured it before I had arrived in Italy -- perfect weather, perfect scenery, and the perfect time of day.

It was simply . . . perfect!!!

We then boarded our bus back into Sorrento where we watched an inlaid wood demonstration. Seeing Sorrento on another day makes me see it from a different perspective. Sorrento is a picturesque village, part of which is located high above the cliffs overlooking the bay and the other part down on the water. It's a great place to shop as the village wends its way down narrow streets and side alleys with little shops and kiosks selling items of every stripe. The bustling center of town was quaint even in its heightened activity. Sorrento is the Italian village I had always pictured in my mind.

It was on from there to the harbor where we boarded a ferry to the sun-drenched island of dreams, the Isle of Capri, a rock rising from the Mediterranean. There's no question it's a very beautiful island. It is also a shopping port. Capri is a spree. There's a reason why Emperor Tiberias used up his MasterCard points at the resorts there. (haha)

When we arrived at the port, we received tickets to ride the funicular, a cog railway that runs from the piers, up to Capri Town. There are several "cars" in the train, each accommodating about 10 people comfortably.

At the top, we all emptied out onto a raised platform that offered fantastic views of the island. We then had a walking tour of Capri. Capri is much larger and much more commercially developed than I had imagined it to be. Many of the buildings were draped with a purple flowering vine that rendered much of the island a shade of fuschia from a distance. It was similar to being in any major city in the US with a shopping district, only higher end and much more scenic. This is a town that has streets that are more like alleys, where you stroll in total contentment, remembering Jackie Kennedy, and you happily get lost and found in this maze.

The guide showed us through some of the streets, past an exclusive hotel that used to be the hospital and on up to a garden with spectacular views around the island and of the Faraglioni Rocks. Capri is amazing – flowers everywhere and wonderful alleys to explore. The views along the sidewalk occasionally opened up into panoramic vistas. It also is home to the rich and famous – with many, many designer shops. This clearly wasn't a place to come for bargains!

After half an hour of some free time, the group met up for a tour of Anacapri, the highest point on the island, to visit Villa San Michele. If the ride to Positano was not for the faint of heart, no one could have prepared me for the ride to Anacapri. The turns were even more twisted that I thought I would have a heart attack. Moreover, it was harrowing to see people in motor scooters passing us in no passing zones, on corners, on hills, on hairpin turns, and not at all fazed that they would barely make it past our bus before another vehicle would nearly hit them head on. This happened once every few minutes. The entire drive was like watching an Omni Theater production of some disaster movie showing a bus flirting with cliff disaster. It was that scary!

Anyhow, as a backgrounder, Villa San Michele is located on the north-eastern side of Anacapri, 327 metres above sea level. Here was an ancient Roman imperial villa, the ruins of which was preserved by Axel Munthe and is now to be found in the garden. San Michele was Munthe's residence between 1896 and 1910. The fanciful architecture was meant as a perfect environment for his collections, and at the same time, served to enhance the beauty of the landscape. The view from Anacapri was breathtaking!!!

After another hairy ride down from Anacapri, we made it back to port, thankfully in one piece and sanity intact. We then took the ferry back to Sorrento and back to our hotel. After a quick rest and shower, we prepared for dinner. We had drinks at the bar paid for by Insight Vacations, and an included dinner at the hotel’s elegant dining room. We also took this opportunity to pose for a group photo.

Amalfi….. Positano..... Sorrento….. Isle of Capri – all beautiful cities. I'll return here someday. Of that I'm sure.

……to be continued

Italian Travelogue #7: Sorrento

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 16 Nov 2013 06:43:00 +0000

Before hitting the road towards Sorrento, we stopped in Florence at the Galleria dell’Accademia to pay homage to the beloved Statue of David, by Michelangelo. In 1873, "The David" was moved to the Academy from its original position in Piazza della Signoria to protect it from weather and pollution.

Anyhow, we met our guide outside of the Academy and we once again donned the Vox System so that we could all hear her.

Security at the museum was tight, so much so that cameras were not allowed to even be displayed, never mind used. We passed through a room that contained partially completed works by Michelangelo. Many scholars believe he left them in this incomplete condition purposely to show the technique he used to create his master works. One of his more famous works, "Quattro Prigioni" (the Four Prisoners), demonstrated his belief that his figures were trapped in the marble and his job was only to carve away the superfluous stone. It really was amazing to look closely at the work and see the chisel marks created there by Michelangelo himself.

We soon entered the room containing perhaps Michelangelo's greatest work, "David", an 18-foot tall, anatomically perfect nude male. It was breathtaking! Especially to the women. [I noticed that the women went around the statue twice, me included. haha]. It was incredible! The detail has to be seen to be believed. We all commented that some of the features, like hands and toes, seemed out of proportion to the rest of his body. However our guide told us that originally the statue was to be displayed high on a pedestal in the Piazza della Signoria and Michelangelo was compensating for the viewing angles from below. He’s a genius that he simply thought of everything. Amazing!!! It made his work even more of a marvel. It was impressive than I imagined it would be.

We were only in the Accademia for a little over 40 minutes and after a brief opportunity to visit the gift shop, we were back on the road to Sorrento.

Along the way, we stopped at the Commonwealth Cemetery in Cassino. It is a beautifully kept cemetery honoring the British, Australian and Canadian men who died defending this area. You could see the hills in the background and the Abbey of Montecassino at the top. Shona had explained to us how the Germans had held the position at the Abbey during WWII and the Commonwealth troops were sent in to try and take the position. They sustained extremely heavy casualties, and so we knew why we were stopping at the Commonwealth Cemetery. But nothing prepared me for the feelings that washed over me once we got there. The Canadian section appeared to be the largest contingent, with row upon row of gravestones marking young men aged 18, 19, 20 and the like. Just boys killed defending the freedom we enjoy today.

As we walked back, I thought it had seemed like a strange stop on such an upbeat vacation, but I‘m glad they took us there. It was a sober note on the trip, but it was a meaningful reminder of the sacrifices that were made in WWII.

From the cemetery, we went on to Sorrento. The drive down to the Naples area from Florence was uneventful if not long. We were told by Shona on the trip down that the driving in the southern portion of the country is not to be believed. And she wasn't lying. Right from the start you could see the difference in driving. People here were nearly suicidal in their tactics.

Thankfully, we arrived at our hotel, Grand Hotel La Pace, in one piece. The hotel is a marvel of architecture. It is "Fantasy Island meets the Palace of Versailles." It's ostentatious and over the top in its attempt to stun and impress. Just look at the pictures below:

After some rest, we then boarded our mini buses for the ride down to the Bay of Sorrento for our dinner. There was no way our motor coach could make that trip down the even narrower roads and very steep streets of Sorrento to get to the restaurant.

As a backgrounder, Sorrento, like many Italian resort cities, is built on a hill above the harbour. Visitors don’t come to Sorrento for history or cathedrals or historic strolls. It is an unapologetic resort town, parading fancy shops, exquisite views and rock-strewn beaches as its prime attractions. Traipsing around town can be a bit of nerve-wracking due to the large crowds and absolute lack of traffic signals in town, leading those who are brave enough to drive to do so at ridiculously high speeds and with little regard for pedestrians. However, it has a liberal view of what constitutes a beach – the coastlines are mostly just a strip of rocks jutting into dangerous configurations. That means most sunbathing is relegated to lying on deck chairs on long piers extending into the halcyon waters.

Nevertheless, the ambiance of the village down on the waterfront was exactly what you dream about. The seagulls were calling and the fishermen of the village were just returning from a day on the water.

Dinner was at a very nice seaside restaurant. The food was excellent and the ambience was amazing. There was also a keyboard player/singer who wasn’t that good. Or probably I’m just biased, having a singer for a husband. [haha] Anyway, he was selling his CD – as was the case anywhere we had entertainment.

Anyhow, the meal began with pasta and then a form of pizza bread. This was followed by real pizza on a long board that was displayed for us to review, then salad, followed by the main course [which was fish, it being a seafood restau], and finally dessert. I had a different entrée compared to the rest, so again, I was deeply impressed. What a wonderful evening to end a wonderful day!!!

……to be continued

Italian Travelogue #6: Florence

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 16 Nov 2013 06:16:00 +0000

After another early wake-up call and breakfast, we boarded the bus for the trip to Florence (called Firenze by the Italians). I had been looking forward to this stop with great anticipation as there was so much to see in this city.

Shona wasn’t able to book our reservation at the Academy of Arts to see my boyfriend, “David”, so it was scheduled for the following day. Today’s agenda included a walking tour of the city. And shopping! (finally!)

After meeting our guide, we first went to Piazza di San Giovanni to see the outside of the Duomo and the Baptistry, two magnificent buildings. The dome, along with Giotto's Campanile, is the landmark that defines Florence. On the east side of the baptistry, facing the Duomo, are the famous bronze doors, dubbed the "Gates of Paradise" by Michelangelo when he first saw them. The doors on the baptistry are replicas, with the originals on display at the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo not far away. The doors are comprised of ten panels that depict stories from the Old Testament. Simply put, the work is stunning!!!

Florence is a great city for walking. There are little shops of every stripe lining streets and alleys, from fruit stands to jewelry stores. So we walked through many scenic alleys on our way to Piazza della Signoria, the original location of Michelangelo's David, now replaced with a replica. We also viewed the other statues which commemorate the major historical events of the city, such as the famous "The Rape of the Sabine Women" by Giambologna, which is a fascinating story on its own. The Fontana di Nettuno, or Fountain of Neptune, dominates the plaza, which was essentially the epicenter of the tour. Everywhere we went subsequently was routed from this center.

Statue of Cosmos

Statue of Neptune

Statue of David (replica)

Statue of Hercules and Cacus

Statue of Perseus with the head of Medusa

Statue of the Rape of the Sabine Women

The tour ended at the Santa Croce Basilica where we met Shona, after which we were coerced to watch a leather demo. We walked a short distance to the Peruzzi Leather store and were shown how they stamp gold leaf on leather. The leather store certainly has beautiful products. What’s yummy is the way it’s been laid out and presented. Besides, you can just gawk and enjoy and not buy a thing as their goods cost an arm and a leg. Ricky and I didn’t stay long as we wanted more time to explore the city.

But first, we went for a quick lunch at a cafe along the way, eating outside in a cool alley. We paid 400 euros for a salad and pizza. [Nah… Just checking to see if you're paying attention.]

If you’re in Florence for the first time, you may be overwhelmed (as I was). It’s the crowd! It’s the handbags! Or the leather jackets and boots! And if you are combining art, culture, and shopping on time constraints, you will most certainly be dizzy (as I was).

Since we hardly had time to do any shopping on previous days, that was exactly what we had planned to do while in Florence. I couldn’t disappoint my credit card company, right? But as it turned out, we were in for a big disappointment. The leather jacket and leather shoes that we sought were beyond my reach. Their prices were simply outrageous! Would you be willing to spend 900 euros for a leather jacket or ….. 600 euros for a pair of leather boots? I don’t think so! We’re talking about euros here, folks, not dollars. Besides, we are allowed to bring back goods to Canada worth only C$750 each. And I wasn’t prepared to pay more in taxes!!! But we didn’t come back empty handed, though. We did make purchases for the kids and Ricky bought some shirts for himself. So far, I behaved myself and didn’t succumb to my weakness for splurging. Florence didn’t succeed in tickling my extravagance bone. Not one bit…

After fulfilling my gelato (nutella flavor) obligation, we all then assembled at the Santa Croce Basilica, after which we trekked back to the bus which was parked along the Arno River and back to our hotel to prepare for dinner.

About an hour later, we boarded the bus for our optional dinner at Pietre Cavete, a restaurant on top of the mountain. It is a beautiful property and you could see the rolling Tuscan hills down below and lots of medieval walled cities in the surrounding hills.

The meal was a true Tuscan Feast – best bruschetta I have ever had in my life, a different kind of pasta, Florentine steak that melts in your mouth, and a yummy dessert. I just have to mention one thing that really impressed me about this tour. When I checked in online with Insight Vacations, I mentioned that I’m allergic to dairy and shellfish; so guess what, without me saying anything to anyone, a dish of pasta with no cream (just tomato sauce) was put in front of me and I got a different kind of Italian dessert (Shona thought of everything!). I was really impressed! During dinner, the wine was ever flowing, because as soon as one bottle was emptied, it was immediately replaced. It was also my first time to try the much-touted drink, limoncello, that delectable lemon vodka brew that makes one tipsy after a thimbleful. I loved it! It was simply a magical evening, full of camaraderie and fun!

All too soon it was time to head back to the bus, and music was put on and we were all singing to the tune of “Amore”. On most vacations, you get one or two nights that are truly memorable, but it seems like every night has been like that. The days are going by too fast! Way too fast, in fact.

As you can see, the dinner was not of the "Macaroni and Cheese" ilk. It was gourmet, it was generous, and it was exceptional. It fit the mood and tone of the day -- classic, refined, and one for the ages. It was the exclamation point to an incredibly memorable day. You gotta love Italy!!!

……to be continued

Italian Travelogue #5: Pisa / Tuscany

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 15 Nov 2013 01:33:00 +0000

Another early start to the day and we woke up to a rainy day. After breakfast, it was time to bid farewell to magical Venice, after which we embarked on a 6-hour drive to Tuscany. I spent the long drive looking out the window at the passing landscapes which, on this particular drive, were spectacular. We passed through numerous tunnels, 28 to be exact, [can you believe I was counting them? haha] that cut though under the hills. This particular highway was called “Highway to the Sun” built by Mussolini, that runs from Milan to Naples. Our route, however, took us across the plains of the Po River and traversed the Apennines, the hilly backbone of Italy, to reach the Arno valley. Enroute, we heard the informative tutorial about the famous Chianti wines that make this region so famous.

Following the river westwards, we stopped at Pisa to see the famous Leaning Tower where elaborate steps have been taken to prevent this landmark from falling over. I can hardly contain my excitement. As you know, it has always been my dream to have my picture taken against the leaning tower. As Shona aptly described it, the leaning tower is the most defective work of art in Italy. Florentines hate it so much that they want to topple it down. (haha)

When we got to Pisa, we boarded Disney-like trams that ran from the parking lot to the old city walls. Driving through part of the town showed that Pisa was definitely working class and not a very attractive city.

Once we got off the tram, we walked along the old city walls to the main gate and archway to get into the Campo dei Miracoli (The Field of Miracles). Walking along the wall was an experience unto itself. It was like being in a bad Turkish bazaar with trinket shops everywhere, or running a gauntlet, with vendors vying for your attention nearly every step of the way.

Once we got into the gate, the Tower, Duomo (Cathedral) and Baptistry came into view. It was beautiful and the view stood in stark contrast from the carnival atmosphere just outside the gate. All three of the major buildings are located in a wide expanse of lawn with pathways that lead to each of the buildings.

Ricky and I then took turns in taking pictures, including the incredibly tacky but fun shot of ourselves positioned in such a way as to look as though we are holding up the tower. As with most people, Ricky was intent on getting several good shots of me with the Leaning Tower, thereby fulfilling one of my two major dreams in life. The second was to get back to Vancouver and land safely. (haha)

We had about 1-2hr stop and also had to get lunch. So there wasn’t enough time to buy tickets to see the insides of these buildings. I may live to regret missing the chance to climb the Leaning Tower. And that continues to haunt me until this day.

Anyhow, we then fought our way through the tacky tourist stands and blankets full of fake Prada bags in order to meet Shona at the prescribed time and place. We then all loaded back onto the little train and back to the bus.

For those of us who opted for the wine tasting tour, we were dropped off at the winery, Fattoria Il Poggio. This is a working olive oil farm and winery. We met the tour guide at the farm and walked up into the Olive Tree Grove. There we stood in the middle of a grove of olive trees with views of other groves and vineyards dotting the surrounding hills listening to the guide explain why this region produced the best olive oil in all of Italy, and why she thinks Italy makes the best olive oil in the whole world.

We then walked back down the hill to the buildings and areas with tables outside amongst hanging vines, and another old stone building, which was set up for us. We went in and sat at long tables that had five different kinds of wine on each, as well as olive oil, and were immediately served with antipasti and different kinds of toasted breads and bruschettas. During the meal, we tried the different wines and then at the end they brought out a sweet dessert wine with almond biscotti to dip into it. They then brought us a small taste of Grappa, which I have been looking forward to try. Holy Molly! It was like 200% alcohol! It just burned down my throat. One of the guys in our group threatened to pour water over me if I didn’t finish my grappa. So after cheekily throwing ¾ of the contents out, I gamely finished the rest of the drink and they all clapped. Of course, everyone must have had more than a few drinks, including moi, and were therefore in a jovial mood. Since then, I firmly resolved that in the future, I would prefer to drink lighter fluid if given the choice between it and Grappa.

Thereafter, we traveled to the spa resort town of Montecatini Terme and to our hotel, El Prinsipe, where we received our boat anchors as hotel keys and went to our rooms to relax and get ready for dinner at the hotel.

As a backgrounder, Montecatini Terme, known all over the world for its spas, natural springs and thermal baths, is the ideal destination for all those looking for a rustic place that provides tranquility and complete rejuvenation. Basically known as a summer resort, this place in Tuscany enjoys mild weather all through the year.

As you may have guessed, I can’t wait to get my feet wet, so to speak, and explore the region.

……to be continued

Italian Travelogue #4: Venice

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 15 Nov 2013 01:04:00 +0000

After another early wake-up call and breakfast, we were back on the road driving along through the Apennines and across the Po Valley to the romantic city of Venice. The trip lasted approximately 4 hours. I was looking forward to see Venice, a city which I had always been obsessed with, because I always felt it was a marvel of engineering that it even existed. Being a hopeless romantic sap that I am, the idea of wandering the streets while visiting little shops or traversing the canals via a gondola really appealed to me.

Anyhow, we arrived in Venice under sunny skies and proceeded to the gondola area beside the bus parking lot. I don’t care how touristy you think it is, but riding in a gondola is part of the Venetian experience and something you must do at least once in your lifetime. Anyhow, they were stashing 5 or 6 of us into each gondola. Our gondolier, who was a little too good looking and charming to be believed, navigated us through the labyrinth of canals that make up Venice. What struck me most about Venice was the muffled silence around me. There were no cars or scooters and not many motorized boats. All you hear is the swish of the gondolier poles and your boat as it cuts its way through the water. Looking up at the scenes above us was surreal. The large, open shuttered windows, the ivy colored walls, the large arched doorways, despite being rotted by the constant exposure to the canal, all contributed to a memorable experience. For me, it was the highlight of Venice.

After the gondola ride, Shona escorted us through some back laneways leading to St. Mark’s Square. As expected, Piazza San Marco was packed with people and pigeons. Moreover, the square was a little bit flooded because of the high tide. Shona then gave us a very brief overview of the square but I barely heard her as I was busy trying to feel and experience my dream.

St. Mark’s Square during daytime

Notably, Venice is a thriving tourist trap and you’re hit with it the moment you get off the gondola. There are shops, kiosks, restaurants and artisans in every conceivable nook and cranny. But if you can look past all that, you can see the beauty and character of this ancient city. Its charm will overwhelm you. The facades of the buildings looking down onto the lagoon and canals are beautiful in their stately yet weathered condition.

But before we could get started on our own, we were offered the opportunity to see a glass-blowing demonstration at a Venetian glass-blowing factory. We were led upstairs to a room where we watched one of the few remaining masters blow molten glass into a unique creation. It was actually pretty interesting overall, with him first creating a glass vase in about 2 minutes and then, amazingly, creating a glass horse of excellent detail in about 5 minutes. We were then led to the "hard sell" area where everything was written in Italian except prices. (haha) Since we weren’t interested in the glass, Ricky and I left to enjoy our free time by taking a walk to the Rialto Bridge. After fulfilling our obligatory gelato of tiramisu, we slowly made our way to the appointed place at the appointed time.

We met Shona in front of Doge’s Palace and we walked a short distance to the boat area. Along the way, we saw the Bridge of Sighs off to the left while crossing another bridge. If you must know, the Bridge of Sighs, from where Casanova made his daring escape, connects the Doge’s Palace to the prisons. We then all got loaded onto the boat and proceeded up the canal to our hotel, Hotel Bellini. We received our boat anchors/room keys and were told to meet at 7pm in the lobby for the included dinner. This turned out to be a very nice hotel even though it is very old. It was clean and well kept.

Ricky took a much-needed rest as his legs were killing him. So I ventured out onto the streets of Venice on my own. It was surreal! I can’t believe I was actually in Venice. I browsed through all the quaint little shops but somehow, I always ended up in a church everywhere I turned. So, since it was a Sunday and being a good Catholic, I finally gave up and attended mass. And then it was time to head back to the hotel for dinner.

After dinner, we boarded a motor launch to St. Mark’s Square to listen to the orchestra and have a drink. We had a Bellini, champagne with peach juice, at St. Mark’s Square – across from Doge’s Palace. A great jazz band was playing. And what a transformation! Piazza San Marco in the evening is magical! [I have to apologize for always using the word “magical”, but there is no other word to describe it.] It simply was – magical! All the tourists AND PIGEONS were gone, and we practically had the entire square to ourselves. I can’t believe I was at St. Mark’s Square, listening to the band with a drink in my hand, with the Doge’s Palace in the background. The ambience simply drenched me with magic and memories. No wonder Napoleon said that San Marco was Europe’s most elegant dining room. It was unreal! I was in 7th heaven!!!

St. Mark’s Square at nighttime (the difference is quite remarkable)

After listening to the orchestra for about 45 minutes (there were a few of them throughout the square), it was time to head back to the boats (and to reality) and back to our hotel. On the trip back, we passed some more absolutely unbelievable homes. Venice in its day must have really been the place to be.

Our day in Venice was over. It was way too fast and way too short. I’ll definitely be back because you can’t do the place justice in anything less than 3 days.

To recap, Venice is a feast of magnificent churches, lavish palazzi and stately bridges, all built upon a labyrinth of waterways and streets that are works of art in themselves. It is a place that has to be experienced at least once in your lifetime. You cannot say you’ve seen Europe without checking Venice off your list. For me, it is the best fabricated and authentic experience on the continent!

……to be continued

Italian Travelogue #3: Assisi / Spello

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 12 Nov 2013 23:35:00 +0000

I woke up early to a cloudy day. After an early breakfast, we left Rome and ambled along the valley of the Tiber River to the hills of Umbria, which form part of the Apennines, onto the peaceful hilltop town of Assisi, the home of St. Francis. I was really excited, as this was our first actual day of touring on the road. As we would find out so often, Shona would give us talks on local customs, history, etc. We were spellbound and could listen to her talk forever. We would really appreciate this later in the tour when the drives were longer. On the way through the rolling hills of Umbria, we passed fields of dried up sunflowers. Everywhere I looked, everything seems to just scream “Italy”. I was enthralled!

After about 90 minutes or so, we stopped at an Autogrill for lunch. Autogrills are similar to rest stops on American interstates but with better food. They also carry all manner of other items, some of which seem out of place. But the process in place to serve people could only be thought of – I should say this again – by a confused Italian. The cafeteria area is divided into few sections. There's a hot food line where you can load up on pasta, hot meals, main courses, vegetables and the like. There is a separate pizza bar where you can grab any of 4 or 5 types of pizzas. And then there's the sandwich area. To use this, you have to walk over to the sandwich bar, decide what you want while trying desperately to remember the Italian name of the sandwich, then get in line at the check outs to prepay for the items, then bring the receipt back to the sandwich area (another line) where they then get your sandwich for you. It was explained that the reason for this process was to keep the food handlers from handling the (dirty) money. But that never made sense to me. If you picked up the sandwich in the same way you put food from the hot food line on your tray and then checked out, no food handlers would touch money either. But who was I? A lowly peon, that's who. And one that had to wait in 3 lines to finally get a sandwich. It was a bizarre process, and one that we assiduously avoided for the rest of the trip. We stuck to the hot food.

Continuing on our way, I noticed that the scenery along the valleys on the ride to Assisi was phenomenal. Little villages were perched on bluffs in the green slopes along the Autostrada. We then arrived at St. Mary of the Angels Church where St. Francis lived and later died and established his Franciscan Order.

The Basilica of St. Mary of the Angels was built over the original tiny little church still inside. This is also a beautiful basilica and the little church was fascinating. Legend has it that if you walk through the small original church, all your sins were forgiven (at least I think that’s what it was), so you know I had to walk through it.

The front entrance to the cathedral is quite impressive, with large columns positioned in front of the huge entry doors. St. Francis received the original site of the church as a gift from the Benedictine monks of Mount Subasio and now the interior of the church contains the Cappella del Transito (Death Chapel), the place where St. Francis died on October 4th, 1226. This church, as well as the main basilica in Assisi, was severely damaged during an earthquake a few years ago. We viewed many of the preserved frescoes inside the church which is really impressive.

This might be a good time to mention that when you tour a cathedral in Italy, women are expected to wear clothing that covers the knees and shoulders, and men are not allowed to wear shorts or tank tops. Or skirts. (hehe)

Then it was up the road into the town of Assisi. Assisi is a superb hill town in the beautiful region of Umbria. To visitors, medieval "hill towns" are like storybook towns that time forgot; they did not develop into big cities over the centuries, but rather kept their narrow lanes, massive gates, stone buildings, and other features we find so charming.

But Assisi is much more than a pretty hill town. Thousands come to worship in Assisi's magnificent churches, and to pray to Francis of Assisi, a much-beloved saint.

We then met our local guide to tour the Basilica of St. Francis. The church is located at the end of a long colonnaded plaza. Inside are large frescoes by the artist Giotto and, as with all the basilicas, unbelievably ornate woodwork and ceilings. There are basically three churches built more or less one atop the other as part of the complex. Francis is buried in the lower chapel. The guide gave us a brief overview of what we would see in the lower chapel and then we descended through the mid-level church into the lower chapel. It was very crowded in the small chapel with pilgrims filling the pews and many walking up through the main aisle and around the altar containing the sarcophagus of St. Francis. It was a bit eerie, frankly, and we quickly made our way to the altar, making a U-turn, and then back out again.

No pictures were allowed in any of the three levels of the basilica so there was no chance to take pictures of any of the amazing frescoes. The church is filled with frescoes and I could have easily spent hours walking the entire complex.

Since the church was heavily damaged in the earthquake, iron rods were drilled into the arches of the colonnade for support as large sections of the ceiling frescoes above the altar in the main sanctuary had collapsed, killing four people during the quake. The officials had done such a masterful job of restoring the church to its original glory that even these signs of past destruction weren't enough to take away from its grandeur.

The outside of the basilica was huge and just beautiful, and the views into the plaza and down into the valley were incredible. For sheer natural beauty in its setting, Assisi was the most beautiful and serene place I saw on the tour. It was magical!

After the tour, we were informed that there was a change in our hotel. We were initially billeted at Mount Subasio Hotel, but for reasons unbeknownst to me, it was changed to The Giotto Hotel. Oh well, no big deal. So, we checked in into our hotel and were given free time to be on our own. This hotel and all of the hotels outside of Rome have room keys, which are the size and weight of a small boat anchor, so thankfully you are supposed to turn them in each time you leave the hotel.

We then walked up the hill along one of the main streets in order to get something to eat. Shona recommended a ristorante which apparently serves the best pizza in town. As usual, we got lost while looking for it. I asked an elderly woman in one of the old hotels that we passed, but she didn’t speak a word of English. You may meet people who may speak English, but the degree to which they do and the number that do, is inversely proportional to your need for information. So finding your way around (as in Rome) can be an adventure. Although I thought I would have no problem finding my way around and scoffed at suggestions that actually getting lost would be a good thing, it turned out to be true. We found things purely by accident and the best things of the day were completely serendipitous in nature. So don't sweat it if you get lost. You're not truly lost. Just keep walking north until you hear Swiss and bang a left. Seriously, just keep your cool and your sense of humor and eventually you'll get back on track and probably discover something better than what you were looking for. As we did. We discovered this beautiful restaurant wherein we had a great authentic Italian meal that we really enjoyed, especially as we topped it off with a cuppa of cappuccino. I was in heaven!

Soon thereafter, we were on our way for an optional tour of a cute little town of Spello, which is just in the outskirts of Assisi. If you want to experience the charm of a small Italian village and live like a local for a few days, then Spello is the place to be.

From a distance, the medieval town of Spello seems to melt down the hill which it graces. Tiny stone houses that dot the Umbrian countryside form this mesmerizing and charming town. Only occasionally do tourists stop in Spello; it’s not part of the "usual" foreigner’s travel itinerary. It’s one of those places that if you happen to drive past, you feel compelled to detour and discover. Mostly, Spello exists for the locals. But it’s that small town charm that the accidental tourist finds endearing.

Spello is a pleasure for those who love walking. Three well-preserved Roman stone arches form the entry points to the town: Porta Venere, with its towers, Porta Urbica and Porta Consolare. Once inside, the cobblestone streets meander in and out of mysterious alleyways that lead to simple, yet elegant stone houses.

After the walking tour, we had some time on our own, so what was there to do but have a gelato. Oh yes, gelato is as good as everyone says it is.

Dinner was at the hotel and we had pasta (but of course), steak and a yummy dessert. Be warned that the pasta in Italy is very different from the pasta that we are used to in North America or even in Asia. Their pasta has no meat but the taste is flavourful. I tell you, after having tasted authentic Italian pasta, I will never go back to the Olive Garden Restaurant again. (haha)

Postscript: The village of Assisi is right out of a Hollywood movie, with tiny shops lining cobblestone streets that wind up and down the hillside. It is a beautiful little town but everything is a challenging walk up the hills (even heading back down sometimes seems like up). The town is lovely and the views are magnificent. It is so sweet and peaceful that I didn’t want to leave…..

……to be continued

Italian Travelogue #2: Rome

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 11 Nov 2013 23:20:00 +0000

Off we went for our first tour of the day. To say that I was beaming with excitement was an understatement. Following the seat rotation rule in the bus where we have to move up 2 rows everyday, I strategically positioned ourselves in such a way that we would be at the front row of the bus on the last day of the tour. Brilliant idea, eh? Anyhow, we arrived at the Vatican Museum shortly after 8:00am where we met our guide for the day (Ulysses), and who handed out our audio system.

One notable good thing about being on a tour is that you don’t need to line up like the rest of the maddening crowd who waited in line for hours. We just walked ahead of the crowd, down some escalators and then through several corridors before emerging in an open and very nice courtyard called the Courtyard of the Pigna. There were easels set up along one length of the courtyard with information about the Sistine Chapel. Each time a tour group came into the courtyard, they would walk over to the next available easel and the guide would use the information mounted there to talk about the Chapel. The large illustrations showed how the restoration process had cleaned up the images, providing before and after shots, and displayed a panel-by-panel review of what to look for, both on the ceiling and on the walls. This all took place there because there was no talking allowed in the Chapel. Or photos. Or flash. Or breathing. (haha)

It was kind of interesting to look over along the wall and see 10 sets of easels with guides talking to their groups in at least 5 different languages. I don't normally have Attention Deficit Disorder but I was having a hard time listening to Ulysses. I wanted to drink in as much as I could of the courtyard and the surrounding area. I had done a ton of research on my own prior to arriving, so much so that what the guide was saying was redundant to me. I was there to see and experience; therefore I would get restless when we stood around for more than five minutes in any one place.

After about 15 minutes, we were led back into the building. We started up the stairs and into the Gallery of Greek and Roman Sculptures and moving through to the tapestries and then the maps. The tapestries were enormous, covering entire walls. The rooms were kept dark and of course no flash was allowed. The maps were equally large. Created back in the 15th and 16th century, it was amazing to see the detail they knew about back then. I was in total awe.

As we were to find a lot on this tour, it was just a taste of things to come. Photography inside buildings on this trip would become problematic. Generally you can assume that one of two things is true. In any given building, either no pictures at all are allowed, or no flash is permitted, which is to say you can't take pictures because most churches or museums have the light of an unlit catacomb. So if you're planning on showing up in Italy with the idea that you're going to take postcard shots of the interior of the Pantheon or St. Peter's Basilica, guess again.

After going through the exhibits, it was time to move into the Sistine Chapel. We were read the riot act about not talking, not taking photos, and not pulling the pigtails of the girls sitting in front of us. (haha) Then we filed in.

My first impression was that it was dark in there. The only light came from windows in the walls high above the floor. But it was absolutely stunning and it was one of those moments one never forgets. Every available space, either on the walls or on the ceilings, was filled with frescoes. I stood there in the middle and looked around while considering the history that had taken place there, realizing that ordinary men became Popes right where I stood. Or that one of the greatest artists in history poised himself on scaffolding directly above my head and painted the most famous fresco in history. It was a powerful moment. Once again words cannot describe the frescoes in this room. You have to see it with your own eyes to be able to experience goose bumps on your body. For me, it was one of the highlights of the trip. Although the time given does not allow you to see everyone of them, sensory overload was taking over anyway, so I sat or stood there for 20 minutes getting a neck ache looking at the ceiling, yet feeling overwhelmed from it all.

The only unfortunate thing is that it's incredibly crowded in there. Although there is no talking allowed, the low murmur of people trying to whisper usually rises to a level that gets so loud that some 4th level cardinal or old monsignor has to shush everyone. Seriously! It was like being back in school. I flashed back to third grade when Sister Teresa Tamunday used to do the same thing to us. Catholics seem to establish a method of doing things and holding on to it for thousands of years. (haha)

After the Sistine Chapel, we were then led into St. Peter’s Basilica. As soon as we entered, I was immediately blown away by its sheer size. Words can't adequately explain it and even pictures don't do it justice. One really must stand at one end and gain the sense of length, width and depth all at once. The magnificence of the interior can only be described by actually being there. Sun streamed into the dome from the large windows embedded in it while casting brilliant rays against the gold trim of the base. We then worked our way back to the rear of the church and took shots of Michelangelo's Pieta, which is an unbelievable work of unsurpassed genius. I simply couldn’t take it all in, moved by the majesty of the place. In short, it was overwhelmingly powerful!

As one observer wrote: "St Peter's Basilica is the reason why Rome is still the center of the civilized world. For religious, historical, and architectural reasons, it by itself justifies a journey to Rome, and its interior offers a palimpsest of artistic styles at their best..." I couldn’t agree more.

“La Pieta”

The Incorrupt Body of Pope John XXIII

Bernini’s Baldacchino (canopy that shelters the papal altar)

Sadly, too soon, it was time to go outside and continue the tour of St. Peter’s Square. We were then given time on our own for lunch and souvenir shopping.

Panoramic view of St. Peter’s Square

After lunch, we met the bus and the tour guide for the trip to the Colosseum. On the way there, and from a vantage point on the bus, I could see the city of Rome in all its glory. The scenery in front of me left me breathless. Words can’t describe its grandeur. Everywhere I looked were great camera shots: down the river, up the river, down the streets, everywhere! I saw Castel Sant’Angelo and Bernini’s Angels on the bridge crossing the Tiber River. I was in my best element of taking it all in! The crowds were unbelievable, but that didn’t take away from it.

Ulysses took us inside the Colosseum and explained some of the history and features of it and then we were left on our own to wander around.

The Colosseum is an amazing place. The impression you may have from the outside belies what you see on the inside. The "stage" level of the interior is exposed, so you can see (and imagine) the underground corridors where animals and performers gathered before appearing on the stadium floor. Many animals or performers were hoisted up to this level on pulleys or other ancient "lifts" or elevators, similar to what you may have seen in the movie "Gladiator" when the tigers popped out of trap doors to attack Russell Crowe. Of all the monuments in Rome, the Colosseum thrilled me the most. It was here that gladiators met in mortal combat and condemned prisoners fought off hungry lions. This great symbol of eternal Rome still excites the imagination as you'll see from the hordes of people waiting to get in.

We then went back to the hotel for some much-needed rest and assembled a couple of hours later for our optional walking tour of the city.

During the walking tour and, as expected, we were ushered over to the Trevi Fountain. I've never grown tired of looking at pictures of anything in Rome, particularly the Trevi, and seeing it in person for the first time was as exciting as I had imagined it to be. The enormity of it and its seeming contextual problems with its neighborhood made for a surreal moment. The panorama was phenomenal. I could not believe I was in Rome, walking through Italian squares with great people. I loved it!

And as you can imagine, the Trevi was packed!!! We had to fight our way to get down to the fountain level so we could throw the traditional coins over our shoulders with a wish to return to Rome.

After taking the perfunctory photo op, we walked over to the nearby gelato shop to have our first taste of the much talked about gelato. Besides, there is an unwritten law in Italy that you have to eat gelato at least once a day, and that’s exactly what we did. Someone should do a survey of the favourite gelato flavour. I vote tiramisu; (no! bacco; no! berry; no! pistachio; never mind). You gotta love Italy!!!

We then turned towards Via Condotti onto Via Del Corso and walked for a while until we walked past the national assembly building. Ulysses gave us a short lecture about Italian government, which has a reputation amongst the Italian populace as being useless and corrupt. (Hmmm….sounds familiar.) Anyhow, in the same plaza area we saw the Colonna di Marco Aurelio, a massive obelisk/column inscribed with the exploits of the Roman Emperor that unfold in a spiral pattern along its length. It was beautiful!

A short walk from there put us in front of the Pantheon. The first massively domed structure in the world built by Hadrian 2000 years ago, it is still impressive today with its oculus opening in its ceiling. Since the Renaissance, the Pantheon has been used as a tomb. Among those buried there are Raphael, King Vittorio and King Umberto (whose tomb is shown below). The building is now a basilica.

I scurried over to Raphael's tomb. Raphael was a gifted painter of the Renaissance but his private life was more colorful than his many paintings. Evidently he had quite a reputation with the ladies and his activities had much to do with his shortened life span. It's often interesting to think about stories like this. I've always pictured the great masters who most often created works having to do with biblical topics as being righteous, conscientious men of honor. Obviously that wasn't the case in many instances, Raphael chief amongst them.

Continuing our walking tour, we went through an alley and entered into the famous Piazza Navona. This may have been the busiest place in Rome in olden times. Once the site of the old chariot races and the Circus Agonalis, the plaza is now dominated by the Church of Saint Agnes and Bernini's most spectacular fountain, Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, or “The Fountain of the Four Rivers”. The four gods on the corners of the fountain represent the four major rivers of the world known at that time: the Nile, Danube, Ganges, and Plate. Apparently there is a story that Bernini and the architect of the adjacent church, Borromini, were not fond of each other and as a result, Bernini had one of his fountain characters covering his face in horror at the church. It's all false, of course, as the fountain was built before the dome of the church, but it makes for great theater. I chose to ignore the facts and bought the more interesting story -- hook, line, and sinker.

The plaza has two other fountains, one located at each end. At the southern end is the Fontana del Moro with a basin and four Tritons sculpted by Giacomo della Porta (1575) to which, in 1673, Bernini added a statue of a Moor wrestling with a dolphin; while at the northern end is the Fountain of Neptune created by Giacomo della Porta (1574). The statue of Neptune in the northern fountain, the work of Antonio Della Bitta, was added in 1878 to make that fountain more symmetrical with La Fontana del Moro in the south. It's a very nice place to hang out if you're a people watcher. The area is ringed with restaurants, shops, outdoor cafes, and retail stores, and the interior of the plaza is populated by artisans selling paintings, crafts, jewelry and all manner of goods.

At the end of the tour of the plaza, we were on our own time. After a visit to the Church of St. Agnes which contains a relic of her skull in the tabernacle, Ricky and I had dinner with a couple from Alberta, along with their son who happens to be a priest studying in Rome. Again, I can’t believe I’m in the Eternal City enjoying my first authentic Italian dinner of salad and pasta. What more can I ask for? It was magical!

To recap, no other city comes close to Rome. It may no longer be caput mundi (capital of the world), but Rome is an epic, bubbling-over metropolis harbouring lost empires. One visit and you’ll be hooked. Rome has a glorious monumentality that it wears without reverence. Its architectural heirlooms are buzzed around by car and Vespa as if they were no more than traffic islands. The city bombards you with images of Trastevere; the Forum; the traffic jams around the Colosseum; plateloads of pasta in Piazza Navona; sinuous trees beside the Villa Borghese; and barrages of pastel-coloured scooters revving up at traffic lights as if preparing for a race. People in Rome encapsulate the spirit of the city. Here the national preoccupation with the aesthetic fuses with incredible urban scenery to make Rome a city where you feel cool just strolling through the streets, catching the sunlight on your face outside a café, or eating a long lunch. It’s a place that almost encourages you to take things easy. Don’t feel like going to a museum? What’s the need when it’s all outside on the streets!!! I simply loved it!

……to be continued

Travelogue: Italy (September 22-October 2, 2010)

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 11 Nov 2013 07:38:00 +0000

Ciao! To start off, I just have to say - Italy is beautiful!!! There is no other way or word to describe it. It simply is fantabulous that I would go back in a heartbeat. It is a living museum – in that its public structures comprise vivid, visible art and architecture that stand as testaments to the country’s history and culture, and where its tangible and timeless legacies can be witnessed in every major Italian city and town. That’s how much I loved it. In fact, I pine for it – still.

Anyway, (hubby) Ricky and I left Vancouver on the 22nd of September for our tour with Insight Vacations. I woke up early in order to finish last-minute packing, and to check my emails one last time. Then around noontime, my brother and sis-in-law, Mario and Ola, picked us up to drive us to the airport because everyone else was working that day, it being a Wednesday. Since it was still early and our flight wasn’t till 6pm, we decided to have lunch at Aberdeen Centre in Richmond. We really enjoyed our meal so much that both Mario and Ola agreed that it was their best meal ever. That was our way of saying “grazie” for taking us to the airport.

Checking in with British Airways was a breeze; and since it was still early, Ricky and I strolled around Vancouver International Airport (YVR), snapping shots here and there, to remind ourselves how beautiful YVR really is. [Nah….. just to show you how camera freaks we really are.] (haha)

Our flight, which departed ahead of schedule, was a 9-hour flight to London Heathrow with a layover of 3 hours. It was a turbulent flight, especially over Greenland, so I decided to entertain myself by watching the movies “Sex and the City 2” starring ‘you know who’; and “The Back-up Plan” starring Jennifer Lopez. Both were ‘chick flicks’ and were good enough to pass the time.

Since the plane departed ahead of schedule, it touched down at London Heathrow also ahead of schedule. One good thing about flying with British Airways if you’re having a layover in London is that Terminal 5 is exclusively for the use of British Airways flights, and therefore, you don’t need to transfer from one terminal to another. Having said that, however, Terminal 5 is so huge that you still need to take the train to go to the gates. That’s how huge it is! But since it has been newly constructed, everything is ultra modern and spiffy. They even accept all kinds of currency when you buy food, so we didn’t have to exchange our dollars into pounds just to get something to eat. Isn’t that convenient?

We really had an easy trip, with no hiccups, until we were informed that our flight to Rome has been delayed for half an hour. I was kind of apprehensive because I didn’t want to miss our 1st optional tour that night, which was the “Illumination Tour of Rome”. But since our flight has been delayed, I resigned myself to the fact that we weren’t going anywhere that night. More so when we were informed by the pilot that our flight would take a little bit longer because the plane had to avoid flying over Paris due to the strike. Ayayay!!!

Anyhow, I decided to enjoy the rest of the flight by appreciating the food laid out before us. It was yummy! Ricky slept all the way from London to Rome so he didn’t get a chance to eat dinner.

The plane finally touched down at Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) Airport at 6:30 pm. My first impression of the airport was that it was old and chaotic. Nevertheless, I was genuinely excited!!!

Getting through customs was a breeze. If you ever wanted to see someone who appears to either hate his job or totally bored with the whole process, wait until you see these guys. With absolutely no conversation, the customs officer just received my passport with hardly a look at me and my passport, and then threw the passport back at me. I could have been a terrorist and he wouldn’t even have cared. (haha) Welcome to Italy!

And then the mayhem started. Even the Italians are confused which carousel to use for us to pick up our luggage. The sign says carousel #5 for the flight we were on, and then the announcement came that our luggage will be at carousel #6, and yet both carousels were spitting out pieces of luggage from the same flight. So Ricky stationed himself at #6 while I kept a close watch on #5. haha - you gotta love Italy!!!

After waiting for what seemed like eternity, our 2 pieces of luggage finally made an appearance, after which we went to look for our tour representative. The two of us were then loaded onto a 9-passenger van and headed to our hotel. Everything you read about Italian drivers is true. And whatever you've heard about them, you double its severity and then multiply by 10. It's something you could never imagine unless you saw it for yourself. This driver of ours tried to attach himself to the bumper of the car ahead of him and was taking runs at other cars. Dios mio! I felt like I was on Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride in Disney World. I thought the drivers in New York were notably bad, but this was an entirely new class of transportation unto itself. Although many of the roads in the cities have lanes, there are usually no lines to distinguish them so it is total vehicular anarchy. Italians seem to use a two-lane highway for 3 across. And cutting other drivers off wasn't an exception -- it was the established rule! Motor scooters were everywhere and would become the most common sight throughout our stay in Italy. So - watching our van driver participate in this chaos was unnerving on one hand, and entertaining on the other.

Word of advice: If you're planning on going to Italy on your own, or you otherwise want to rent a car to get around, particularly in the cities, think again. You're better off driving south on a northbound interstate highway as your chances for survival are far greater.

Anyhow, we finally arrived at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Rome, thankfully in one piece. Regrettably, we had missed the welcome drink and illumination tour. After checking in, the desk clerk at the hotel directed me to Insight’s bulletin board to get the details for the following day.

After taking note of the wake-up call and breakfast time, we settled into our room. Since I was exhausted with no sleep for almost 24 hours, I fell asleep without having any dinner. And since Ricky was starving, he ate the sandwich served on the plane and subsequently fell asleep. My hunger pangs woke me up at 2am because it was almost dinner time back home. So I ate some granola bars to keep my hunger pangs at bay and went back to sleep. Woke up at 5am and eagerly prepared for the 1st official day of our tour.

Somehow, I manage to get up earlier on vacations than I do when I have to work. I prefer a leisurely breakfast rather than rushing through things in the morning. When people go on Daylight Savings Time, they set their clocks ahead an hour and pretend it’s an hour later, even though it isn’t; therefore, the same concept applies on another continent. How does my body know whether it’s 6:00 or 7:00? So, I figure, I might as well get up early.

The breakfast at the Crowne Plaza Hotel was probably the best one on the tour. I read on the forum that you should ask for cappuccino if you want one, so that’s what I did during the course of the tour. I always started my day with a cuppa of cappuccino and usually ended it with a gelato. I tell you - it was paradise on earth!!!

And since we finished breakfast early, we utilized our “waiting time” to have some snapshots of the hotel. Can you tell we’re really camera freaks? (haha)

We then met our tour director, Shona, who gave us our luggage tags. She was amazing! She has a wealth of historical knowledge that she freely shared, along with both interesting and amusing anecdotes. She always remained upbeat and she was a wealth of knowledge on just about everything and anything we saw.

Our tour bus driver, Marco, was a world-class driver and an absolute genius in handling that monstrous vehicle. Later in the tour, he would draw many cheers from the group with his ability to manage the most challenging of narrow winding roads and tight little turns. A graduate of the School of Driving Assertively in Traffic Hell, he continued to amaze us with his ability to get a gigantically huge bus into a space the size of a tuna can. He spoke no English and we never spoke a word to each other, other than "buon giorno" “grazie” and “buona sera”. And given some of the hairpin turns on 400-foot cliffs we were later to traverse in Sorrento, I can honestly say I never felt nervous with Marco at the helm. He was with a bus what Michelangelo was with a chisel.

The group of people on the tour, as I came to know later, was super. Everyone seemed quite compatible, and much mingling took place among the various travelers. There were 40 of us in the group which included people from the USA, Canada and Australia.

Postscript: The Belpaese (Beautiful Country) is one of the single greatest repositories of sensorial pleasures on earth. From art to food, from stunning and varied countryside to flamboyant fashion, Italy has it all. With 44 sites, Italy has more Unesco World Heritage sites than any other country on earth. Its great città d’arte (cities of art), like Rome, Venice and Florence, have been attracting visitors for centuries, and with good reason. But as much as all of these, a trip to Italy is about lapping up the lifestyle. It’s about idling over a coffee at a streetside cafe or lingering over a long lunch in the hot Mediterranean sun. It is simply awesome!

….to be continued

Pilgrimage Travelogue #17: Vatican / Rome, Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 17 Oct 2013 04:17:00 +0000

After a very early wake up call, we just wrapped up our breakfast due to time constraints as we had to be at the ancient tombs of the popes underneath St. Peter’s Basilica for our mass. I was overjoyed to have read the First Reading. Can you imagine being a part of the Eucharistic celebration at St. Peter’s Basilica? I really felt truly blessed. Pardon the superlatives, but that’s exactly how I felt.

Thereafter, we had a guided tour of the Vatican Museums. Since I was there the year before, I took it this time as an opportunity to view it from a pilgrimage perspective, instead of from a tourist perspective.

I think it’s apropos for me to emphasize that the Vatican, or Holy See, is contained within the sovereign city-state of Vatican City. It is important to understand the difference between Vatican City and the Holy See, which is technically the seat of the Bishop of Rome, more commonly referred to as the Pope. The history of the Vatican and the history of the Catholic Church are barely separable. The history of the Vatican as a sovereign city-state dates back to the year 1929, while the Vatican as the main seat of the Catholic Church goes back to the 14th century.

The normal queue outside the Vatican Museums

Our first stop was the Pigna (pine cone) Courtyard. It was in here that our guide explained about the Sistine Chapel since complete silence is, and should be, strictly observed while in there.

The Courtyard of the “Pigna” is named after a colossal bronze pine cone, almost 4 metres high which, in the classic age, stood near the Pantheon in Rome, known as the “Pigna quarter”. It was first moved to the atrium of the ancient St Peter’s Basilica during the Middle Ages and then moved here in 1608. Two bronze peacocks, copies of 2nd century A.D. originals in the Braccio Nuovo, flank the pinecone. In the middle of the wide-open space are two concentric spheres by sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro.

Thereafter, we headed towards the Vatican Museums. As the religious center of Europe since its inception, the Vatican Museums contain an enormous collection of art collected through centuries of history, from Egyptian pieces to Etruscan ruins to Renaissance paintings and, of course, the legendary Sistine Chapel. But before you get to the Sistine Chapel, you are bombarded with endless hallways of religious art, statues, and artifacts, such that by the time you get to see the Chapel, you feel as if you’ve seen enough naked, fat cherubs to last you a lifetime. hahaha

Long galleries of tapestries are another highlight inside the Vatican Museums, and the history of the Vatican defers to a surprising collection of modern religious art by masters such as Matisse, Gauguin, Chagall and Picasso. Ancient cartography is on display in the gallery of the maps, where obsolete territories are crafted in pale blues and greens, and the lands’ ever-changing borders finally kept still for posterity.

Map gallery at the Vatican Museums

Of all of the museums, not just in Italy but the world over, the Vatican Museums should not be missed. The Vatican Museums were founded under the patronage of two 18th century popes - Clement XIV and Pius VI - who were among the first to open collections of art to the general public for viewing, therefore promoting culture among the masses. Appropriately, the first building in the museum complex, the Pio-Clementine Museum, was named after these two pontiffs. As the decades passed, more popes added to the already impressive collection of diverse artworks owned and displayed by the Vatican. What really distinguishes these works from, say, the Louvre in Paris, is that the pictures are painted on the walls and ceilings, not hung on them. The difference is simply dramatic.

Deep in the holy center of Vatican City, the museum is a graceful repository of treasures ranging from the entire history of the Vatican and housed in a series of palaces, apartments and galleries leading to the Sistine Chapel. You could probably spend hundreds of hours in this museum.

Having seen all these before, you’d think I’d be bored, right? Far from it. I could look at them over and over again and still get overwhelmed. In fact, I still experienced sensory overload looking at all these treasures.

Anyhow, since all walking tours end at the Sistine Chapel, that was exactly where we headed to next.

In the papal palace, there is a large number of chapels which serve various purposes. By far, the largest and the most famous of these is the Sistine Chapel.

The Sistine Chapel is one of the most famous and ornate churches in all of Europe. The masterpiece of Renaissance art, known as the Cappella Sistina in Italian, is a part of the Apostolic Palace, the Pope's official residence in Vatican City. But the Sistine Chapel is more than the sum of its artistic wonders; it is a symbolic statement of papal authority and the place in which papal elections in conclave are held to this day.

Thanks to the extraordinary talents of Michelangelo Buonarroti, the Sistine Chapel has become one of the most famous art galleries in the western world. Michelangelo's famous Sistine ceiling depicts scenes from Genesis in dramatic and moving detail, while The Last Judgment on the end wall is striking and powerful. Because of Michelangelo's sculpting skills, the details of the bodies adorning the ceiling are phenomenal. As if that were not enough, the side walls are covered with important Renaissance frescoes by other artists, depicting biblical scenes and contemporary popes.

Allow me to encapsulate the history of the Sistine Chapel so you can appreciate it more.

The Sistine Chapel was commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV, from whom it derives its name, in 1475. It was designed to be - and still is - the Pope's chapel and the site of papal elections. The Sistine Chapel was consecrated and dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin on August 15, 1483.

In 1481, Sixtus IV called to Rome painters from Florence and Perugia to decorate the walls with frescoes. The fresco project took only 11 months, from July 1481 to May 1482. But in 1508, Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to repaint the ceiling.

Michelangelo was called away from his work on the pope's own tomb and was not happy about the change. He had always insisted he was a sculptor and was contemptuous of fresco painting. The result was glorious depictions of human bodies that could only be created by a sculptor, and the project Michelangelo hated so much (at least at first) ironically became his most well-known work.

Michelangelo was asked to paint the Twelve Apostles and a few ornaments on the ceiling of the chapel. But as he began work on the project, Michelangelo conceived grander designs and ended up painting more than 300 figures. He worked on the project between 1508 and 1512 in cramped conditions high on scaffolding and under continuous pressure from the pope to hurry up. The project would permanently damage the artist's eyesight.

Michelangelo was in his 60s when he was called back to the chapel, again against his wishes, to paint The Last Judgment on the altar wall. The work was commissioned by Pope Clement shortly before his death, and Clement's successor, Pope Paul III, forced Michelangelo to complete it quickly. It was the largest fresco of the century and is still an unquestioned masterpiece.

In recent decades, the Sistine Chapel has been carefully cleaned and restored, beginning with the 15th century wall frescoes in 1965. The cleaning and restoration of the lunettes, the ceiling and the Last Judgment, a painstaking process using computer analysis, lasted from 1980 to 1994. The restoration included removing several of the "modesty" drapes that had been added over some of the nude figures. The end result of the restoration has been controversial. Critics say a vital second layer of paint was removed, and argue that many of the restored figures seem flat compared with the originals, which had more shadow and detail. Others have hailed the project for saving Michelangelo's masterpiece for future generations to appreciate and for revealing the vibrancy of his color palette.

Located at the southern end of the Vatican Museums and just north of St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel is of no great architectural interest. It is a barn-like simple rectangle, 40.93 meters long by 13.41 meters wide - the exact dimensions of the Temple of Solomon as given in the Old Testament. The chapel is 20.70 meters high and roofed with a flattened barrel vault. There are six tall windows cut into the long sides, forming a series of pendentives between them.

The Sistine Chapel was originally divided into two equal sections, a nave for the laity and a presbytery for the clergy, by a marble screen and the pattern of floor mosaics. In later years, the screen was moved to make the nave smaller and the presbytery much larger.

The walls are decorated with frescoes by Renaissance masters and are divided into three horizontal levels. The wall frescoes, though often missed by visitors captivated by the ceiling, are stunning in their artistic beauty and fascinating in their meaning. The fresco cycle consists of scenes from the Old Testament on the left wall that correspond with scenes from the New Testament on the right wall.

The famous Sistine ceiling is divided into nine sections in which nine stories of Genesis - from the stages of Creation to the Drunkenness of Noah - are depicted. The scenes begin from the altar wall and proceed toward the entrance. Michelangelo painted them in reverse order since he started from the area near the entrance wall. The twisting ignudi or male nudes that decorate the corners of the ceiling were highly controversial at the time.

The Last Judgment on the altar wall, however, is a powerful work that centers on Christ, the Judge, who compels the damned to hell with his left hand, and lifts up the saved to heaven with his right. Surrounding Christ are the planets, the sun and saints.

Notable among the details is Minos, the Judge of Souls, shown in hell with the ears of a jackass. He is a portrait of the papal Master of Ceremonies, Biagio da Cesena, who frequently complained to the Pope about the nudity of the painted figures. When Biagio complained to the pope about his consignment to hell in Michelangelo's painting, Pope Paul III is said to have replied that he has no jurisdiction in hell.

Michelangelo's self-portrait appears twice in The Last Judgment - in the flayed skin held by St. Bartholomew and in the figure in the lower left corner, who is watching the dead rise from their graves.

Returning to my tale, the chapel was packed with people (as usual). Fortunately, we were given enough time to appreciate the grandeur of this chapel. Learning from the previous year where I experienced neck ache, I sat down at the end of the room and contemplated on the majesty of the church. It also gave me a chance to take stolen shots, one of which came out really good, as can be gleaned from the photo below:

Uh-oh, am I doomed to a less than desirable afterlife by doing this? I shudder to think…

Leaving the Vatican Museums, we moved on to see St. Peter's Basilica. This major basilica is impressive to travelers of all religions, not just Catholicism or Christianity. I had visited St. Peter's a year before, but the size and majesty of the church still took my breath away. It is simply astounding!

Seriously, this is such an immense structure that you have to see it with your own eyes to really get the feel and look. No camera does it justice. You have to be there.

St. Peter’s Basilica by day

St. Peter’s Basilica by night

Again, allow me to encapsulate the history of St. Peter’s Basilica. As one writer said, a pilgrim must visit Saint Peter's Basilica since, as a Roman Catholic, this is like going to the corporate headquarters. Only the Church's retirement plan is much better. haha

St. Peter's Basilica is a major basilica in Vatican City, an enclave of Rome. St. Peter's was, until recently, the largest church ever built and it remains one of the holiest sites in Christendom. Contrary to what one might reasonably assume, St. Peter's is not a cathedral - that honor in Rome goes to St. John Lateran.

St. Peter's Basilica stands on the traditional site where Peter - the apostle who is considered the first pope - was crucified and buried. St. Peter's tomb is under the main altar and many other popes are buried in the basilica as well. Originally founded by Constantine in 324, St. Peter's Basilica was rebuilt in the 16th century by Renaissance masters including Bramante, Michelangelo and Bernini.

In the 1st century AD, the site of St. Peter's Basilica hosted the Circus of Nero and a cemetery. According to ancient tradition, St. Peter was martyred in the Circus and buried nearby. His simple grave was remembered and visited by the faithful, and in 324, Emperor Constantine began construction on a great basilica over the tomb. The shrine of St. Peter is still the central focus of the church today.

Construction on the current building began under Pope Julius II in 1506 and was completed in 1615 under Pope Paul V. The dome of St. Peter's was designed by Michelangelo, who became chief architect in 1546. At the time of his death in 1564, the dome was finished as far as the drum, the base on which the dome sits. The great double dome is made of brick and is 42.3 metres in interior diameter (almost as large as the Pantheon), rising to 120 metres above the floor. In the early 18th century, cracks appeared in the dome, so four iron chains were installed between the two shells to bind it.

Uniquely, Michelangelo's dome is not a hemisphere, but a parabola and, therefore, it has a vertical thrust, which is made more emphatic by the bold ribbing that springs from the paired Corinthian columns, which appear to be part of the drum, but which stand away from it like buttresses to absorb the outward thrust of the dome's weight. The central balcony is called the Loggia of the Blessings, and is used for the announcement of the new pope with "Habemus Papum" and his Urbi et Orbi blessing. The relief under the balcony represents Christ giving the keys to St. Peter.

Allow me to walk you through St. Peter’s Basilica:

The facade is topped by 13 statues in travertine. Between the façade and the interior is the portico which contains an 18th century statue of Charlemagne to the south, and an equestrian sculpture of Emperor Constantine to the north.

The northernmost door is the Holy Door, in bronze, which is by tradition only opened for great celebrations such as Jubilee years. Pope John Paul II opened the holy door in the jubilee years of 1983-84 and 2000-01.

The door in the center was preserved from the old basilica. It was too small for its new space, so panels were added at the top and bottom. Known as the Filarete Door after the artist's nickname, it has six panels that depict Jesus and Mary enthroned; St. Paul with the sword; St. Peter giving the keys to the kneeling Pope Eugene IV; St. Paul sentenced by Nero; martyrdom of St. Paul; martyrdom of St. Peter on Vatican Hill; St. Paul appearing to Plautilla, to give her back the veil she had lent him to blindfold his eyes.

The Door of Death is the far left door into the basilica. Its name derives from its traditional use as the exit for funeral processions.

To say that the interior of St. Peter's is impressive would be an obvious understatement given that it is perhaps the largest church in the world (the new Basilica of Yamoussoukro may have surpassed it). It covers an area of 23,000 m² (5.7 acres) and has a capacity of over 60,000 people. And every bit of space is used to display the finest Renaissance monuments and decoration money could buy, employing the talents of such greats as Michelangelo and Bernini.

Immediately inside the central doors is a large round porphyry slab set into the floor. Here Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Emperors knelt for their coronation in front of the high altar of the old basilica. Along the floor of the nave are markers with the comparative lengths of other churches, starting from the entrance (this is quite remarkable). The insides of the pilasters that separate the nave from the side aisles have niches filled with statues of saints who founded religious orders. There are 39 of these in total throughout the church, spaced evenly in the nave and two transepts.

In the northwestern (right front) corner of the nave is the bronze statue of St. Peter Enthroned. It is robed and crowned on high festivals, and its outstretched foot is smoothed down due to centuries of pilgrims' caresses.

In the right aisle, the first major sight is Michelangelo's beautiful Pietà, located immediately to the right of the entrance. The sculpture depicts the Virgin Mary cradling the dead Jesus in her lap after the crucifixion, and was completed when Michelangelo was just 24. After it was vandalized with an axe in 1972, the sculpture was placed behind protective glass.

Since I already saw La Pieta last year, I skipped it and walked towards the tomb of Pope John Paul II. The guard kept on reminding the tourists (and pilgrims) that we should be praying instead of taking pictures. Being a good girl (sometimes), I did pray; and once the guard walked to the other side, I started taking pictures. Well, I took it upon myself to take pictures; otherwise, I would have nothing to show you guys, right? haha

Up the aisle is the monument of Queen Christina of Sweden, who abdicated in 1654 in order to convert to Catholicism. Further up are the monuments of Popes Pius XI and Pius XII, as well as the altar of St Sebastian.

Halfway to the transept is the large Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament where the Blessed Sacrament (consecrated bread and wine) is exposed for the continuous adoration of the faithful. A notice reads: "Only those who wish to pray may enter." It is a rare place of silence and stillness in the tourist-filled basilica, and for many Catholics it is their favorite space. I myself found this place very peaceful. Inside the chapel, the sacrament is enshrined in a tabernacle of gilded bronze designed by Bernini. It has statuettes of the twelve Apostles on the cornice and one of Jesus on the miniature dome. It is encrusted with deep blue lapis lazuli and is flanked by two angels in gilded bronze, kneeling in reverent prayer. Behind the altar is an oil painting by Pietro da Cortona of the Trinity, the only canvas painting in the whole basilica. (Sorry, no photos allowed so I could not provide any. I didn’t have the heart to take stolen shots either…)

Further down the right aisle are the monuments of Pope Gregory XIII and Gregory XIV. The right transept contains three altars: St Wenceslas, St. Processo and St. Martiniano, and St. Erasmus.

Where the right aisle runs into the Pier of St. Longinus is the body of Pope John XXIII, displayed in a glass case beneath the Altar of St. Jerome. The Pope was beatified (a step towards sainthood) in 2000. When the tomb was opened in order to move his body to the basilica in 2001, it was found to be incorrupt and was therefore placed in a glass case. This location was chosen because the Pope was a specialist in the church fathers and a devotee of St. Jerome in particular.

At the crossing of the transepts is the central focus of the interior, the baldacchino. This monumental canopy shelters the papal altar and the holy relics of St. Peter. Artistically, it also serves to fill the vertical space under Michelangelo's great dome. Made of 927 tons of dark bronze (removed from the Pantheon's roof in 1633) accented with gold vine leaves, the baldacchino stands 90 feet tall.

At the foot of the baldacchino and papal altar is the sunken Confessio, a 17th century chapel named in honor of the confession of St. Peter that led to his martyrdom here.

Although the baldacchino and papal altar stand over St. Peter's tomb, the tomb itself cannot be seen either from here on in the crypt. St. Peter's tomb is on the other side of the Niche of the Pallium at the back of the Confessio, and can only be seen in the special Scavi tour of the ancient necropolis. The niche contains a silver coffer that seems like a good place for Peter's relics, but actually contains fabrics (each known as a "pallium") woven from the wool of lambs blessed on the feast of St. Agnes and given to patriarchs and metropolitans as a reminder of the Church's unity.

Behind the coffer is an early 8th-century mosaic of Christ, placed here by Pope Leo III. In his left hand, Christ holds a Bible open at the Gospel of John, which bears the Latin inscription, "I am the way the truth and the life, the one who believes in me shall live."

Surrounding the baldacchino are four great piers that support the huge dome. Each pier has a large niche at its base, which is filled with a colossal statue of a saint representing each of the basilica's four major relics:

NW pier - St Helena, Constantine's mother, holding a large cross (representing the relic of the True Cross found by the saint in Jerusalem)

NE pier - St Longinus, the Roman soldier who thrust a spear in the side of Christ at the crucifixion, converted, and was later martyred (the relic is the spear)

SE pier - St Andrew, with his trademark diagonal cross upon which he was martyred (the relic is Andrew's head, which was returned to the Greek Orthodox Church in 1964)

SW pier - St Veronica, with the veil Christ used to wipe his face on the way to Calvary, leaving his image imprinted on it (representing the relic of Veronica's veil)

The relics themselves are kept in the podium of the Pier of St. Veronica and are displayed only during Holy Week. The Vatican makes no official claims as to the authenticity of these relics and, in fact, other Catholic churches claim to possess the same ones.

At the far west end of the basilica is the tribune, which centers on the Cathedra of St. Peter.

At the end of the left aisle, west of the transept, is the Chapel of the Column. This contains the Altar of Our Lady of the Column on the south side.

To the left of the altar is the Altar of Pope St. Leo the Great by Alessandro Algardi. This is the only altarpiece of marble relief in the basilica. Leo was a highly influential pope and was the first to be buried in St. Peter's.

Heading back towards the entrance, between the Chapel of the Column and the left transept is the monument to Pope Alexander (Chigi) VII by Bernini. The door below symbolizes the Gate of Death, above which a skeleton lifts a fold of red marble drapery and holds an hourglass. He is flanked on the right by a statue representing Truth or religion, which rests her foot on a globe — specifically placed upon the British Isles, symbolizing the pope's problems with the Church of England. Three other figures represent Charity, Prudence and Justice.

The left transept contains the altars of St. Peter's Crucifixion, St. Joseph and St. Thomas.

Just beyond the left transept as you head back to the entrance is the monument to Pope Pius VIII.

East of the left transept is the Clementine Chapel, which contains the Altar of Pope St. Gregory the Great. The altarpiece, a mosaic reproduction of a 1625 painting by Sacchi, depicts a miracle in which St. Gregory used a knife to cause blood to flow from a corporal cloth. Beneath the altar is the tomb of Gregory, which can be seen through a grille.

The last chapel before you leave is the Presentation Chapel, which centers on the Altar of the Presentation of Mary. The altarpiece, which shows the young Mary being presented in the Temple by her parents, is a mosaic based on a painting by Romaneli. Below the altar is the body of Pope St. Pius X, the last pope to be canonized. His face and hands are covered in silver. Pius X is known for his emphasis on religious education, and for his opposition to modernism. He allowed children to take communion, and encouraged the sacrament to be practiced daily.

After the chapel and on your right is the monument to Pope Benedict XV. The Pope is shown in fervent prayer, kneeling on a tomb which commemorates the First World War, which he described as a "useless massacre." The tomb is covered in olive branches, symbols of peace. Above the statue is Mary, presenting Jesus, Prince of Peace, to the world in flames.

On your left as you leave is the Monument to the Royal Stuarts, a pyramidal masterpiece by Antonio Canova.

Next to this is the tomb of Maria Clementina Sobieska, a princess who received the rare honor of burial in St. Peter's normally reserved for popes and saints. The wife of James Stuart, she earned this honor through her crusade for the Catholic faith.

On the left just inside the entrance is the baptistery, where a porphyry cover from a 4th-century sarcophagus is used as the baptismal font.

The crypt underneath the church is well worth a visit. It contains architectural fragments from earlier churches on the site and the tombs of many popes.

But the focus of pilgrims and tourists alike is the tomb of the very first pope: St. Peter. These prized relics have been the goal of millions of pilgrims since the early centuries of Christianity, and have a good likelihood of authenticity. A glass wall at the end of the crypt provides a view of the reliquary below the altar, which may well contain the actual bones of St. Peter. A chapel stretches out behind the shrine into the crypt for services at this holiest of shrines.

On your way out as you exit from the crypt is the entrance to the dome and roof, in the northern courtyard between the church and Vatican Palace. There is an admission charge and often a line, but it is a very worthwhile experience. There is an elevator option as far as the dome (for an extra euro), and from there on it is stairs only.

The views from the gallery around the cupola of Michelangelo's dome provide an impressive sense of the enormity of the church, a look at the top of the baldacchino, and a closer view of the cupola's inscriptions and medallions.

From the gallery, stairs continue to the roof, where you step out on the east side of the dome. This provides a sweeping view of St. Peter's Square and Vatican City from behind the huge statues on the facade.

Thereafter, we proceeded to St Peter’s Square. Providing a fitting approach to St Peter’s Basilica is the huge, elliptical St. Peter's Square (Piazza San Pietro), designed by Bernini and built between 1656 and 1667. There are two beautiful fountains in the square, the south/left one by Carlo Maderno and the northern/right one by Bernini.

In the center of the square is a 25.5-meter-tall obelisk, which dates from 13th-century BC (Before Christ) and was brought to Rome in the 1st century to stand in Nero's Circus some 275 yards away. It was moved to its present location in 1585 by order of Pope Sixtus V. The task took four months and is said to have been done in complete silence on pain of death. If you include the cross on top and the base, the obelisk reaches 40m.

The square is outlined by a monumental colonnade by Bernini, its open arms symbolically welcoming the world into the Catholic Church. Between the obelisk and each fountain is a circular stone that marks the focal points of an ellipse. If you stand on one of these points, the two rows of columns of the colonnade line up perfectly and appear to be just a single row.

On top of the colonnade are 140 statues of saints, crafted by a number of sculptors between 1662 and 1703. Some of the apostles are at the far end of the colonnade, outside the square and down the street. Near the stairs to the basilica at the front of the square are colossal statues of Sts. Peter and Paul, the patron saints of Rome.

After the tour, we were given time on our own to romance the shops and the wicked pastries. So without any further ado, Marilyn, Grace and I went in search of food. With our stomachs happy, Marilyn went shopping for more religious articles, while Grace and I relaxed in one of the benches to “people watch”. Besides, I couldn’t stand the heat which was at a searing temp of 30 degrees (C). Anyhow, at the appointed time and place, we returned to our bus for a panoramic tour of the city.

We passed through crowded streets of Rome with crazy Italian drivers in abundance. Our first stop was the Trevi Fountain.

Rome is also home to one of the most beautiful fountains in the world, the Trevi Fountain. The Fontana di Trevi was erected in 1732 and is located in Trevi Square in the Quirinale district. Legend says that if a visitor tosses a coin into the fountain, then they will one day return to Rome. And as you guessed it, I had to toss a coin so I can return to Rome again (and again) some day.

Generally, the city of Rome is large enough to absorb its tourist visitors with ease. There are just a few places in Rome where you can find yourself barely able to move for camera-wielding crowds or clutching your bag for fear of pickpockets. Unfortunately, the Trevi Fountain is one of those places. However, it is still a not-to-be-missed sight when you are visiting Rome, especially if you are lucky enough to arrive when the crowds have lessened.

One of the reasons for the crowds is simply the lack of space. What photographs don't convey, and what strikes the visitor most powerfully, is the fountain's scale compared to its setting. This is simply a massive, monstrous water feature built in a tiny square. It incorporates one side of the piazza; the entire facade of a palazzo. The fountain's backdrop is Palazzo Poli, which becomes a part of the monument. The fountain features a central sculpture of Neptune, with Health and Abundance alongside. He is attended by tritons and marine horses. The water thunders and it is one of the most staggering, ludicrously theatrical spectacles you will ever see. It is an exuberant expression of Rome's character in all its excess, extravagance and drama. Brush off the hawkers trying to sell plastic rubbish, hold tightly to your valuables and find a vantage spot where you can simply stand and take in the view, and the sound of the thundering water. It is one of Rome's most famous tourist sights; an overpowering spectacle which dominates its surroundings.

After tossing some coins at the Trevi Fountain, we went for the arguably best gelato in town where I chose nutella flavour. Yum!

Back on the bus, we pass through so many attractions, one of which was the Victor Emmanuelle monument.

The next stop was the Colosseum. However, since I was just there the year before, and the heat has gone up to a staggering 33 degrees (C), I opted to stay on the bus along with 10 other people. I made use of the time by relaxing and chatting with Bennie and our gorgeous Italian driver, Giovanni.

Thereafter, we proceeded to the last of the 4 patriarchal basilicas of Rome: Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls. Originally founded by Emperor Constantine in the 4th century, the Basilica of St. Paul is the burial place of Saint Paul the Apostle. And after spending the morning at the Vatican, I was really looking forward to see the Basilica of St. Paul. It was much more intense than I was expecting. It could have been probably because of the movie that we watched while on the bus enroute to Rome.

Anyhow, while visiting this basilica, the irony was not lost on me that Paul started out as a persecutor of Christians and then died as a persecuted Christian.

Historically, after his execution and burial in Rome in the 1st century AD, Saint Paul's followers erected a shrine over the grave. Early Christians frequently visited the site to honor the great Apostle to the Gentiles and author of more than half of the New Testament. The first church on the site was a small one, founded by Emperor Constantine and consecrated in 324. In 386, Emperor Theodosius demolished the original church and began the construction of a much larger basilica. According to the inscription on the triumphal arch, it was consecrated in 390 by Siricius, and completed in 395 under Emperor Honorius. Although heavily restored, the present basilica looks much the same as it did in the 4th century.

In 1823, a great fire, started through the negligence of a workman who was repairing the lead of the roof, resulted in the destruction of the basilica. The whole world contributed to its restoration. The Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster, the Emperor of Russia the precious malachite and lapis lazuli of the tabernacle. The work on the principal facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed by the Italian government, which declared the church a national monument.

The main door, of bronze with inlaid silver, is modern, made by Antonio Maraini after the old door had been damaged in the fire of 1823. The original door was a gift from Pope Gregory VII, set up in 1070, and was made of the same materials. The reliefs on the door show scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul. Apart from the two central scenes, all of the events depicted took place in Rome. Flanking the main door are 19th-century statues of Saints Peter and Paul.

One of the basilica's most important artworks is a 12th-century candelabra by Vassalletto, who's also responsible for the remarkable cloisters, containing twisted pairs of columns enclosing a rose garden. Also notable is the baldacchino (richly embroidered fabric of silk and gold, draped over an important person or sacred object), which also was spared by the fire.

The cloisters were built between 1208 and 1235. The inscription in the mosaics is a poem describing the importance of cloisters in the life of a monk and the use of the cloisters as a place of meditation and study. The sacristy of the cloisters contains the statue of Pope Boniface IX.

Personally, I found the basilica’s open simplicity makes a welcome contrast to the ostentatiousness of St. Peter’s Basilica. It is less crowded but, in many ways, more spectacular than any church you'll see in Rome because of its immense size. Just think of a church spanning the width and length of a football field-and-a-half, add chapels way beyond the end zone, with ceilings rising nearly a hundred feet, and you have some idea of the size of St. Paul’s Basilica. There are no side chapels along the nave of this great church. It is simply a classic basilica of one central nave and two aisles flanking either side. The huge interior is completely free of benches, chairs, statues, and often, even tourists. The mosaics in the triumphal arch and along the walls have been recreated, and the walls are from the mid-19th century restoration, so the building looks fresher and brighter than most of the churches you will see in Rome. Furthermore, the interior is full of golden light and warm colors.

There are fine altars, including one of the Blessed Sacrament at the left of the central main altar. An ancient carved wooden crucifix above the Blessed Sacrament altar and a primitive statue of St. Paul at the right of it are two artistic treasures. Mosaic portraits of every pope in the history of the Catholic Church line the upper walls of the basilica.

Be sure to walk down into the "confessio" just below the main central altar to view part of the sarcophagus which holds the remains of St. Paul. It is a sacred place of prayer for pilgrims who come to remember St. Paul, the Apostle to the Gentiles.

Enter through the front entrance of the basilica and not the side entrance. That way you do not miss the beautiful courtyard in front of the facade of St. Paul's Basilica and also in order to view the huge statue of St. Paul. He stands in front of his church with a sword in one hand and a book in the other. The sword represents the manner of his death and the book, the New Testament containing his letters to young Christian churches.

This basilica (my fave, actually) is one of the most magnificent churches in the world and if you go to Rome, you simply must see it.

Our day at the Vatican City could have easily stretched into several. But, all good things, including vacations, must come to an end. Lucky for me, I didn't have to wait a long time before returning to Rome and Vatican City. And each time I have found something new and exciting to see in the city.

Grudgingly, we went back to the hotel to freshen up for our farewell dinner that evening at Cotto Ristorante. Lots of food, banter and laughter to end what had been a marvelous pilgrimage tour. If you ask me, I would take it again in a heartbeat.

After dinner, Bennie, Zeny and I had a good long chat that ended way into the night. I felt we didn’t want the pilgrimage to end. Indeed, time flies, especially when you’re having too much fun! Finally, albeit reluctantly, we called it a night in order to pack up for our journey back home.

Note: A pilgrimage to Italy is the best of both worlds - it offers many sanctuaries and holy places for reflection and consideration, complemented by journeys through stunning scenery and historic towns. After Lourdes and Fatima, and then visit the core of my faith in all its beauty and richness and a chance to see, hear and be blessed in person by our beloved Holy Father, Pope Benedict XVI, is a treasure to behold forever in my heart. Indeed, having Rome, the heart and soul of my faith, as the culmination of our pilgrimage, couldn’t have been better.

Departure from Rome

Woke up early to say goodbye to Grace who left for the airport at 5:30am to catch a plane for Germany where she was spending the next several days with her goddaughter.

After breakfast, we left for the airport for our flight back to Vancouver, with a connecting flight in Frankfurt. We had our local guide with us, pointing out more places of interest along the way. As you must have guessed correctly, my brain could no longer take in what he was saying. The “vacation mode” part of my brain must have already been switched off. In fact, I was no longer listening, just merely looking at the sights around me.

As was expected of him, the guide expertly guided us through the airport so we can check in without any hassle and trouble of getting lost. Soon thereafter, we were pretty much settled in, with our boarding passes securely in our possession. In fact, Marilyn and I had lots of time to do last-minute shopping at the duty-free shops!

However, when we got to our gate, we were informed that our flight has been delayed because Frankfurt Airport was testing its new systems. Ayayay…. Therefore, we left at 11:30am instead of at 10:10am. And you know what that means, right? Obviously, we missed our connecting flight to Vancouver.

Anyhow, as soon as we landed at Frankfurt Airport, the mayhem started. Half of the group, including myself, who could walk and run fast, dashed for the gate, only to learn that the plane had already left. The other half (including Bennie) stayed put and took their time in waiting for the rest, not knowing that the other half were already on their way to the departure gate. With our group separated from the other half, we were frantic to get back together, but airport officials gave us the run-around at the airport. Finally, exhausted from our running from one end of the airport to the other, we just gave up and sat down in one corner until a kind soul took pity on us and reunited us with the other group. Agh!

We were all then herded back to the Lufthansa ticketing counter to rebook our flights for the following day, but not before waiting for several hours to be attended to. (Sigh!) Fortunately, we were given free hotel and meal vouchers. Of course, it was their fault that we missed our flight to begin with, so they had to pay for everything! We even got to call home (to inform of our change of flight arrival) for free.

Anyhow, we got billeted at the Steigenberger Langen Hotel. And I also noticed that almost all taxicabs in Germany are Mercedes Benzes; therefore, we got to ride in one!

Exhausted from the unfortunate events of the day, we just ate dinner and called it a night. But I wasn’t too happy with our hotel room as it reeked of smoke. Yikes! I asked to be transferred to another room but the hotel was fully booked, so we (Marilyn and I) had no choice but to suffer the stinky smell of our room all night long.

Departure from Frankfurt

Since our flight was not until 1:10pm, we took it easy in the morning. After enjoying a leisurely and sumptuous breakfast (yes, German sausages are to die for!), the hotel shuttle took us back to the airport at 9:00am. Since we had LOTS of time, there was nothing else to do at the airport but shop! One good thing about Germans is that they speak English! Woohoo – no problem with shopping!!! It goes without saying that I was able to buy a very nice top, which made me very happy. Another night in Frankfurt was not so bad after all, eh?

At the appointed time, we made our way to our gate where a bus was waiting for us to take us to our plane. What??? I still don’t understand how their system works until now. But anyhow, to make matters worse, we had to wait for an hour for some passengers whose connecting flight has been delayed. What??? If the plane can wait, why did it not wait for the 26 of us the day before? Could it be that Lufthansa people had learned from their stupid and costly mistake and therefore decided to wait for the latecomers?

Anyhow, the plane finally took off one hour later. I must have spoken too soon, because I don’t think I like Lufthansa Airlines after all. To begin with, its entertainment system was not working at all. Tell me, what should a girl like me do for the next 9 hours, other than sleep? If you know me, I could always look for innovative ways to occupy my time, right? Damn right, I would!

Fortunately, I was seated next to a gorgeous hunk of a man, so I started up a conversation with him. In half an hour, I knew everything about him. He is a pilot for the Canadian Navy and he just got back from Poland for a 3-week NATO military exercise. To keep him interested, I asked him questions about planes and he was just too willing to tell me everything about it. If you ask me what he talked to me about, I have no clue whatsoever. Besides, after learning he’s married, I lost interest.

And then, as if by magic, the entertainment system started working again and I was able to watch the movie, “Just Go With It” starring Adam Sandler, Jennifer Aniston and Nicole Kidman. But I was unable to finish it because the entertainment system went kaput again. Agh!

So – needless to say, the entire plane ride was BORING, except for my animated conversation with my gorgeous seatmate. My only regret? I never had the chance to thank him for his selfless acts of heroism in defending this country which I came to love with passion.

The plane finally touched down at YVR and we lined up before the Customs officer who just asked a couple of questions, and off we went to retrieve our luggage. After returning our prayer and hymnal books to Bennie, and after saying our goodbyes to our fellow pilgrims, Marilyn and I stepped out into the all-too familiar Vancouver airport, and into the waiting arms of Ricky who was just too happy to carry our pieces of luggage and drive us home. haha

And as I’ve always said in the past, I’m so glad to be back home, albeit in this instance, a day later.

In conclusion, this pilgrimage was a journey like nothing else I've ever done. On this journey, every day has the potential of presenting something completely new. However, I’ve learned that in order to be receptive to this experience, my attitude has to be free, spontaneous, unstructured. I hope, as a result of this journey, I have become a better person.

Epilogue:

Looking inward, I’ve realized that modern life compels us to rush. There is always something seemingly more pressing that needs to be done. Because we feel pressured to make the most of our time each day, the activities that sustain us, rejuvenate us, and help us evolve are often the first to be sacrificed when we are in a hurry or faced with a new obligation. It is important to remember, however, that there is more to life than achieving success, making money, and even caring for others. Our spiritual needs should occupy an important spot on our list of priorities. Each task we undertake and each relationship we nurture draws from the wellspring of our spiritual vitality. Taking the time to engage in spiritually fulfilling activities replenishes us and readies us to face another day. Making time for activities that contribute to our spiritual growth has little to do with being selfish and everything to do with our well-being. By regularly taking the time to focus on our soul’s needs ensures that we are able to nurture ourselves, spend time with our thoughts, experience tranquility, and expand our spiritual boundaries. Personally, I noticed that the more time I commit to soul-nurturing activities, the happier and more relaxed I have become. Why don’t you try it? I can assure you that the more time you devote to enriching your spirit, it will rejuvenate you and help you create a more restful life.

Yes, it’s time to go back – to the same old world, the same routine, the same problems. However, for me, everything had changed- forever!

Well folks, this concludes my pilgrimage travelogue. Hope you enjoyed it, and at the same time, informed, enlightened, encouraged and inspired by it.

Again, MERCI! GRACIAS! OBRIGADA! GRAZIE!

Pilgrimage Travelogue #16: Rome, Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 17 Oct 2013 00:06:00 +0000

After another early wake-up call and breakfast, we left for St. Peter’s Square for the papal audience. The papal service doesn’t start until 10:30am, but we had to be there at 8:00am to get good seats. Just imagine being under the heat of the scorching sun for 4 hours!!!

As a backgrounder, the Papal Audience is held on Wednesdays if the Pope is in Rome, giving pilgrims and visitors the chance to "see the Pope" and receive the Papal Blessing or Apostolic Blessing from the successor of the Apostle Peter during their visit.

Anyhow, the Pope was introduced to where the pilgrims of each language group were from, with loud cheers from the people of that place, and sometimes with a song from a choir from that land. He then spoke to them in their native language. At the end of the Audience, the Pope will pray, together with those attending, the Our Father prayer in Latin. At the end of the Prayer as Head of the Catholic Church, he will impart his Apostolic Blessing upon the crowd which also extends to loved ones that are sick and suffering and blesses any religious articles that people have brought with them for the purpose of the blessing.

Hint: if you attend a papal audience: don't worry about how near to the front you are; just try to be close to the route the popemobile takes!

In all honesty, a Papal Audience is altogether different than most would think. Anywhere from three to five thousand people (or even more) gather in St. Peter's Square for each papal audience and sit and listen while the Pope greets the crowd in many different languages. Many tourists plan their visits to Rome years ahead of time, and the anticipation of coming to Rome and attending an audience with the Holy Father can be quite overwhelming. How sad that they will come back home without the long sought-after photo of themselves embracing his holiness to mount in the family room. That photo was to be kept for generations to show their children, grandchildren, and anyone and everyone else who would be willing to listen to their stories about the audience with the Bishop of Rome.

Truth be told, photographs are allowed at the general audience, but the problem is that the chances of sneaking up close enough to get more than the top of his crown are not that great, as can be gleaned from my photo below:

It is easy to sense the letdown on the faces and in the hearts of the faithful pilgrims (like me) who flock to the Vatican on any given Wednesday for this weekly event. People from all over the world fly to Rome, then head to the Vatican by bus, by taxi, by car, by subway, and even by foot, with their golden ticket to the General Audience in hand. There is a fleeting moment when it becomes apparent to them that they are sharing that long anticipated intimate experience with the many thousand others who have gathered in St. Peter's Square with the very same tickets in hand, and this realization can indeed be desolating.

I would argue, however, that most people (me included) take this letdown in stride and do make the best of it. They line up for a place to sit (you'd better come early if you have plans of sitting down), or just stand up in the square and stretch their necks to get a glimpse of the Pope, who sits about 150 meters away underneath a canopy. The "hopeful popefuls" like me can still return home and tell our children about our escapades in Rome, our visit to the Vatican and the audience with the Holy Father, but in our hearts it is usually nothing like what we expected. But mind you, just the experience of being there was still well worth it.

Can you see the Pope (in white) under the canopy?

Anyhow, after the papal audience, we went shopping for religious articles. It was actually fun looking at different religious artifacts which I never saw before. Looking back, I actually enjoyed it. You should know my penchant for shopping by now, right? haha

I think it’s apropos for me to emphasize at this point that there are 4 major basilicas in Rome that are considered “must see” for Catholics – St. Peter’s Basilica, St. Paul’s Basilica, Basilica of St. John Lateran, and Basilica of St. Mary Major. A little bird told me that if you are able to go to these 4 basilicas, you would gain plenary indulgence.

So, in order not to miss an indulgence, we left at 1:30pm for the Basilica of St. Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore). Founded in the 4th century, the Basilica is one of the five great ancient basilicas of Rome. Its 18th-century exterior conceals one of the best-preserved Byzantine interiors in the city.

This is the Basilica also known as Our Lady of the Snows, due to the tradition that it snowed on August 5th and left an outline on the hill for the Basilica to be built upon. According to tradition, the location of this basilica was chosen by the Blessed Virgin Mary through a miracle of snow falling on the original hill where the basilica is now erected. This feast, Our Lady of Snows, is currently celebrated annually as reflected in the official Latin title of the Basilica. The name of the church reflects two ideas of greatness ("major") - that of a major (or papal) basilica and that of the largest (major) church in Rome dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Of all the great Roman Churches and basilicas, the Basilica of St. Mary Major enjoys the most successful blend of different architectural styles. Its colonnaded triple nave is part of the original 5th century building. The Cosmatesque marble floor and delightful Romanesque bell tower (the highest in Rome), with its blue ceramic roundels, are from the medieval period. The Renaissance saw a new coffered ceiling, and the baroque gave the church twin domes and its most imposing front and rear facades. The mosaics are St. Mary Major's most famous feature.

However, the basilica is also famous for its excesses and instigated some violent demonstrations by the Protestants who vehemently opposed the decoration of the entire ceiling with gold leaf when thousands were starving.

The development of the city has taken away the impact of Santa Maria Maggiore's commanding position on the summit of the Esquiline Hill, but the church is still considered by many to be the most beautiful church in Rome after St Peter's.

The high altar of the basilica is a papal altar, used only by the pope himself, or a priest given specific permission by him. It is traditional for the pope to lead a mass here on the Feast of the Assumption of Mary, every August 15th. A porphyry urn on the altar contains the relics of St. Matthew and other martyrs. Beneath the altar is a kneeling statue of Pope Pius IX.

Beneath this, St. Jerome, Doctor of the Church and author of the Latin translation of the Bible, is buried in the Bethlehem crypt. The crypt is built to resemble the cave of the Nativity in Bethlehem. In the right transept is the chapel containing the elaborate tomb of Pope Sixtus V and decorated with frescoes and reliefs of events from his reign.

The chapel centers on a reliquary containing part of the Holy Crib, which was carried to Rome by Christian refugees during the Muslim conquest of the Holy Land in the 7th century.

A museum below the church contains Roman remains that were found here in the 18th century, including a section of Roman road, a mosiac pavement, two wells, a series of arches and narrow passages cut into the bedrock. Today, the church remains one of Rome's most fascinating churches and is well worth a visit.

After my traditional 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to Saint John Lateran Basilica.

Dedicated to John the Baptist and John the Evangelist, the Basilica of St. John Lateran (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) is the oldest and ranks first among the four great “patriarchal” basilicas of Rome. The Basilica is Rome's cathedral, the seat of Christendom in Rome. It is also the cathedral of the bishop of Rome, the Pope, and is thus known as the "Cathedral of Rome and of the World."

The first basilica on the site was built in the 4th century when Constantine donated the land he had received from the wealthy Lateran family. That structure and its successors suffered fire, earthquake and the ravages of war, but the Lateran remained the church where popes were consecrated until the popes returned from Avignon in the 14th century to find the church and the adjoining palace in ruins.

One of Rome’s most imposing churches, the Lateran’s towering facade is crowned with 15 colossal statues of Christ, John the Baptist, John the Evangelist and 12 doctors of the Church. There are six papal tombs inside. The papal altar is said to contain many relics, including the heads of Saints Peter and Paul, and part of St Peter's wooden altar on which St. Peter himself celebrated Mass.

St. Peter’s Chair

Most Catholics think of St. Peter’s Basilica as the Pope’s main church, but they are wrong. St. John Lateran is the Pope’s church, the cathedral of the Diocese of Rome where the Bishop of Rome presides.

After my traditional 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to La Scala Santa (The Holy Staircase).

Situated opposite St. John Lateran Basilica, the Holy Stairs are reputed to be those walked up by Jesus, preserved at this former Papal palace. The 28 marble stairs carefully preserved in this handsome building are traditionally the steps walked up by Christ on his way to trial before Pontius Pilate. St. Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine, was a pioneering collector of relics, and the staircase is supposedly among her finds, brought to Rome in 326 AD.

Devout pilgrims (me included) mount the steps on their knees, praying. The rate of progress is very slow and looks suitably punishing. The Scala Santa is encased in protective walnut wood boards, although there are holes cut through above marks which are supposed to be Jesus' blood (you won't be able to see through these unless you do the kneeling).

Less devout visitors can walk up the alternative staircases on each side, since the Holy Stairs can only be ascended on one’s knees, a devotion much in favour with pilgrims and the faithful, especially on Fridays and in Lent. At the top you can see into a small and lavish private chapel which goes far back in the history of the Lateran Palace, former seat of the popes. This chapel, first mentioned in the 8th century and called the Sancta Sanctorum or Holy of Holies, was the private oratory of medieval popes.

In the Catholic Church, plenary indulgence can be granted for climbing the stairs on one’s knees. Pope Pius VII in 1817 granted those who ascend the stairs in the prescribed manner an indulgence of nine years for every step. Finally, Pope Pius X in 1908 granted a plenary indulgence to be gained as often as the stairs are devoutly ascended after confession and communion.

Personally, this was perhaps one of the unexpected highlights of my trip. To be presented with an opportunity to experience Christ’s passion in such a physical way was truly exceptional. Besides, not everybody will have the opportunity to do this, right? So, I braced myself for the daunting task ahead. Climbing the first 3 steps was a breeze. Then I slowly felt the pain, mounting with every step. It was too late to back out as the steps behind me were already filled up with other pilgrims, each determined to climb their way to the top. With my dogged determination, enhanced by ardent prayer, I was able to reach the top in one piece. But you know what? As soon as I reached the top of the stairs, the pain simply vanished! Honestly! As if the pain never existed. Isn’t that amazing?

Looking back now, it was a good thing I didn’t know at the time what I was in for. I didn’t realize it was that excruciatingly painful. Walking on one’s knees, to begin with, can be painful, but to ascend the stairs is something else! But I did it!

Thereafter, we proceeded to the Church of St. Alphonsus Liguori for our daily mass and to pay homage to Our Lady of Perpetual Help. The Church is dedicated to St. Alphonsus Liguori, the founder of the Congregation of the Most Holy Redeemer, an influential religious congregation.

The church is one of the rare examples of neo-Gothic architecture in Rome. It is one of the last papal churches of Rome, although the Redemptorists have possession of the church and its related complex. It was built between 1855 and 1859, and the façade, embellished by a rose window, is made of brick and travertine and features three doors. In the central tympanum of the door is a polychrome mosaic depicting Our Lady of Perpetual Help.

The interior decorations, rich with marble, date from the end of the 19th century. The apse is crowned by a mosaic, depicting the Redeemer enthroned between the Virgin Mary and St. Joseph. Above the mosaic hangs the original icon of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, which was produced in Crete in the 14th century and given to the Redemptorists by Pope Pius IX in 1866.

We celebrated mass in one of the chapels ~~

…after which we went back to the hotel to freshen up, and thereafter had dinner at Matriciana.

After dinner, we returned to our hotel and I made use of the limited time by checking on my emails at the business centre, after which I called it a night.

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #15: Arenzano / Padua / Venice, Italy

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 16 Oct 2013 22:06:00 +0000

After breakfast, we went back to the Infant Jesus Church as we were unable to see it the previous day as we just had our mass in one of the chapels at the back of the main church.

After mass and photo ops, we ambled back to our bus for our trip to Padua.

Call it coincidence or what, but June 13th happens to be the feast day of St. Anthony of Padua, and we were on our way to attend his “fiesta”. Since it was quite a long drive, we watched the movie of St. Anthony during the drive, which kept us really entertained and also we got to know the saint more. We also crossed the 45th parallel along the way. Isn’t that cool?

Padua is a picturesque city with a dense network of arcaded streets opening into large communal piazzas. As one of the cultural and economic centers in the northeast part of Italy, it is a pilgrimage city where millions of pilgrims come here every year to visit the "Basilica di Sant’Antonio", and where the grave of "Sant’Antonio" is preserved.

By way of introduction, Fernando Martins de Bulhões was born in Lisbon, Portugal. His was a very rich family of the nobility who wanted him to become educated, and they arranged for him to be instructed at the local cathedral school. Against the wishes of his family, however, he entered the Augustinian Abbey of St. Vincent on the outskirts of Lisbon. The Canons Regular of St. Augustine were famous for their dedication to scholarly pursuits, and under their tutelage, Anthony studied scripture and the Latin classics.

After his ordination to the priesthood, Fernando was placed in charge of hospitality in his abbey. It was in this role, in 1219, that he came in contact with five Franciscans who were on their way to Morocco to preach to the Muslims there. Fernando was strongly attracted to the simple evangelical lifestyle of the Franciscan friars. In February 1220, news arrived that the five Franciscans had been martyred in Morocco. Fernando meditated on the heroism of these Franciscans and, inspired by their example, obtained permission from his Augustinian superiors to join the Franciscan Order.

On the return trip to Portugal, his ship was driven by storm upon the coast of Sicily and he landed at Messina. From Sicily he made his way to Assisi and sought admission into a monastery in Italy, but met with difficulty on account of his sickly appearance. He was finally assigned, out of pure compassion, to the rural hospice of San Paolo near Forlì, Romagna, Italy, a choice made after considering his poor health. There he appears to have lived as a hermit and was put to work in the kitchen. Upon his entry to the Franciscan Order, he took the name “Anthony”.

One day, on the occasion of an ordination, a great many visiting Dominican friars were present, and there was some misunderstanding over who should preach. The Franciscans naturally expected that one of the Dominicans would occupy the pulpit, for they were renowned for their preaching. The Dominicans, on the other hand, had come unprepared, thinking that a Franciscan would be the homilist. In this quandary, the head of the hermitage, who had no one among his own humble friars suitable for the occasion, called upon Anthony, who he suspected was most qualified, and entreated him to speak whatever the Holy Spirit should put into his mouth. Anthony objected but was overruled, and his sermon created a deep impression. Not only his rich voice and arresting manner, but the entire theme and substance of his discourse and his moving eloquence, held the attention of his hearers. At that point, Anthony was commissioned to preach the Gospel throughout the area of Lombardy, in northern Italy. From then on, his skills were used to the utmost by the Church. It was as a preacher that Anthony revealed his supreme gift.

Anthony became ill with dropsy and, in 1231, went to the woodland retreat at Camposampiero with two other friars for a respite. There Anthony lived in a cell built for him under the branches of a walnut tree. Anthony died on the way back to Padua on June 13, 1231 at the age of 36.

Various legends surround the death of Anthony. One holds that when he died, the children cried in the streets and that all the bells of the churches rang of their own accord. Anthony is buried in the basilica with his tongue in a reliquary. When his body was exhumed 30 years after his death, it was claimed that the tongue glistened and looked as if it was still alive and moist; apparently a further claim was made that this was a sign of his gift of preaching.

Anthony could be said to have become the "quickest" saint in the history of the Catholic Church because he was canonized by Pope Gregory IX less than one year after his death.

His fame spread through Portuguese evangelization, and he has been known as the most celebrated of the followers of Saint Francis of Assisi. He is the patron saint of Padua, of Italy, and of Lisbon, as well as many other places in Portugal and in the countries of the former Portuguese Empire.

He is especially invoked for the recovery of lost things. Nearly everywhere, St. Anthony is asked to intercede with God for the return of things lost or stolen. Those who feel very familiar with him may pray, “Tony, Tony, turn around. Something’s lost and must be found.” The reason for invoking St. Anthony’s help in finding lost or stolen things is traced back to an incident in his own life. As the story goes, Anthony had a book of psalms that was very important to him. Besides the value of any book before the invention of printing, the Psalter had the notes and comments he had made to use in teaching students in his Franciscan Order.

A novice who had already grown tired of living the religious life decided to depart the community. Besides going AWOL he also took Anthony’s Psalter! Upon realizing his Psalter was missing, Anthony prayed it would be found or returned to him. And after his prayer, the thieving novice was moved to return the Psalter to Anthony and to return to the Order, which accepted him back. Legend has embroidered this story a bit. It has the novice stopped in his flight by a horrible devil, brandishing an ax and threatening to trample him underfoot if he did not immediately return the book. Obviously a devil would hardly command anyone to do something good. But the core of the story would seem to be true. And the stolen book is said to be preserved in the Franciscan friary in Bologna.

Likewise, St. Anthony has been pictured by artists and sculptors in all kinds of ways. He is depicted with a book in his hands, with a lily or torch. He has been painted preaching to fish, holding a monstrance with the Blessed Sacrament in front of a mule or preaching in the public square or from a nut tree.

But since the 17th century, we most often find the saint shown with the child Jesus in his arm or even with the child standing on a book the saint holds. A story about St. Anthony projects back into the past relating to his visit to the Lord of Chatenauneuf. Anthony was praying far into the night when suddenly the room was filled with light more brilliant than the sun. Jesus then appeared to St. Anthony under the form of a little child. Chatenauneuf, attracted by the brilliant light that filled his house, was drawn to witness the vision but promised to tell no one of it until after St. Anthony’s death.

In Portugal, Italy, France and Spain, St. Anthony is the patron saint of sailors and fishermen. According to some biographers, his statue is sometimes placed in a shrine on the ship’s mast. Moreover, travelers and vacationers also pray to St. Anthony that they may be kept safe. I myself ask for St. Anthony’s intercession all the time and, so far, he has not turned me down.

Anyhow, upon arrival, we were given some free time to check out this city since we had a bit of time before the concelebrated mass in honor of St. Anthony were to commence. However, due to the heat, Marilyn, Grace and I decided to take it easy by people-watching at the park.

At the appointed time, we all walked towards the Basilica of Saint Anthony where we witnessed thousands of devotees attend the concelebrated mass, participated in by Fr. Jerry, which was then followed by a procession in St. Anthony’s honor.

While waiting for the concelebrated mass to begin, I took the opportunity to go around the back of his tomb and touch it. It was so special, not to mention the fact that I was able to take some “stolen” shots (ooops), one of which is shown below.

After attending a very solemn mass, we skipped the procession and instead ambled back to our bus and proceeded to our hotel, Hotel Crowne Plaza, for the night.

The following day, after an early wake-up call and breakfast, our bus took us to the train station for our trip to Venice.

Venice is everything you expect and more. It was my second time to see, taste and experience Venice and I was just as excited as the first time, hoping against hope that I will be able to view it this time from a different perspective as I didn’t appreciate it that much during my previous visit last year. To start with, the weather was perfect – hot and sunny – which really made walking and sightseeing all the more enjoyable. We had a local guide that went with us from Padua to Venice so we will make it to our destination without any hitches.

The city of Venice (Venezia to the Italians) stretches across numerous small islands in a lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy. It is protected from the Adriatic Sea by a strip of land called the Lido. The region around Venice is called the Veneto, with a population of about 272,000. Lord Byron called Venice "a fairy city of the heart" and it has earned the nickname La Serenissima, "The Most Serene." Venice actually consists of 117 bodies of land connected by more than 400 bridges over its 150 canals. The Grand Canal is like main street cutting through the center of the city.

Venice is one of Italy's top travel cities and a beautiful, romantic destination with many attractions. It is a unique cityscape of well-worn buildings that seem to float on water and marble steps that descend into lapping waters. Its small, traffic-free streets along the winding canals make for great walking. Positioned at the crossroads of the Byzantine and Roman worlds, Venice acquired a unique heritage of art, architecture, and culture. Today, the hordes of traders and merchants that swarmed Venice have been replaced by tourists, but there is so much to see here that you can still have the "real Venice" all to yourself in the many charming alleys, magnificent churches and palaces, bridges, lively piazzas and interesting shops hiding just off the beaten track.

Upon arrival, we proceeded to St. Geremia Church to visit the tomb of St. Lucy, patroness of sight.

As a backgrounder, Lucy, a virgin and martyr born to noble parents, was from Syracuse in Sicily. In paintings, she is often depicted holding a pair of eyes on a platter. In 303, during the persecutions of Christians by the Emperor Diocletian, she was put to death by sword after refusing to become a prostitute. That was after her tormenters tried to set her on fire.

Like so many of the early martyrs, Lucy had consecrated her virginity to God, and she hoped to devote all her worldly goods to the service of the poor. Her mother was not so single-minded, but an occasion offered itself when Lucy could carry out her generous resolutions. The fame of the virgin-martyr Agatha, who had been executed fifty-two years before, was attracting numerous visitors to her relics at Catania, and many miracles had been wrought through her intercession. Lucy’s mother was therefore persuaded to make a pilgrimage to Catania, in the hope of being cured of a hemorrhage, from which she had been suffering for several years. There she was in fact cured, and Lucy, availing herself of the opportunity, persuaded her mother to allow her to distribute a great part of her riches among the poor.

The largess stirred the greed of the unworthy youth to whom Lucy had been unwillingly betrothed, and he denounced her to Paschasius, the Governor of Sicily. She was first of all condemned to suffer the shame of prostitution; but in the strength of God she stood immovable, so that they could not drag her away to the place of shame. Bundles of wood were then heaped about her and set on fire, and again God saved her. Finally, she met her death by the sword.

After the mass officiated by Fr. Jerry, a different local guide picked us up for a walking tour of the city. But first, we had to take the vaporetto that would take us to St. Mark’s Square. A vaporetto is a water bus that takes both locals and visitors to the places they want and need to go throughout Venice. Because traveling the canals is the easiest way to get around the city, the vaporetto has long been the most efficient and cost-effective mode of transportation, aside from walking. Riding in the front offers the best views, so if you're able to grab the forward seats, go for it. This will give you the opportunity to snap a lot of great pictures along your journey.

I was able to capture the hair of another tourist while taking this shot. Is this photo great or what?

For me, the vaporetto was a novel experience, compared to the gondola which we took a year ago, since it takes you right through the Grand Canal. Also known by Venetians as Canalazzo, the Grand Canal is the major water-traffic corridor sweeping through this amazing city.

Rialto Bridge

The canal is an ancient waterway, lined with buildings - about 170 in all - that were mostly built from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Most were constructed by wealthy Venetian families. It snakes through the city of Venice in a large ‘S’ shape, traveling from the Saint Mark Basin on one end to a lagoon near the Santa Lucia rail station on the other. Believed to follow the course of an ancient river, the Grand Canal measures 3,800 meters (2.36 miles) long and ranges from 30 to 90 meters (about 100-300 feet) wide. In most places, the canal is approximately 5 meters (16 feet) deep.

By this time, the temp has considerably gone up to a boiling heat of 30 degrees (C), quite uncomfortable for my taste. Our first stop was St. Mark’s Square.

As the largest square in the city and the only one given the designation of "piazza" (the others are all referred to as "campi"), St. Mark's Square has always been the location of important government buildings and other facilities central to the goings on in Venice. It is known for the two columns located there that pay homage to two of Venice's patrons - St. Mark and St. Teodoro of Amasea. The columns have long served as the official gateway to the city.

Besides being filled with people and great specimens of architecture, Piazza San Marco is also full of pigeons. Pigeons have long been a problem in the square but only recently did the city pass a law that banned the feeding of these birds. The pigeons have caused much damage to the delicate mosaics on St. Mark's Basilica and to other buildings around the piazza. Several attempts have been made to control the pigeon population but few have been even slightly successful.

We were then “coerced” into watching the glass blowing demo, followed by a sales pitch, which I gallantly ignored. During our walking tour, the guide pointed out places of interest, after which we walked towards the Grand Canal to meet our “supposedly” private launch that would take us back to our bus for our trip to Rome. I said “supposedly” because we were late for our appointment and therefore we had no choice but to wait for the regular launch.

Since I was starving, I bought sandwich for lunch, not forgetting to have a gelato that would go well with it. And we were then on our way to Rome.

It was once said that all roads lead to Rome. Even in the 21st century, that is true. Attempting to write about the city is almost fruitless. It is so enormous and there is such a multitude of things to do in Rome that it must be seen to be fully comprehended. And even then, it will take days to get even a small glimpse into the past of one of the benchmarks of Western Civilization. A symbol of corruption and epic brutality, of great beauty and unmatched opulence, few cities rival Rome in terms of grandeur or of historical import.

Rome tourism is one of the safest bets in the world. People will never tire of viewing crumbling emblems of ancient times, of seeing some of the majestic works of the renaissance, of eating at traditional Italian restaurants, of relaxing in the same gardens as European royalty once did. And these are just a few of the things to do in Rome. To get a good feel for the city, you have to be prepared and efficient - like most Romans, you have to be quick on your feet and full of vibrant energy. Otherwise, this is not the place for you. Even the most casual of the many Rome walking tours available will exhaust you. But its beauty is unrivaled, its scenery astounding and nothing should dissuade you from witnessing the charm and vibrancy of one of the birthplaces of civilization.

As you know, Italy has had a tremendous influence on the culture and religion of the entire Mediterranean region and, by extension, much of the Western world. It has an array of riches to offer the traveler, artistic treasures, historical sites, enchanting landscapes, and of course good food and wine.

Italy can also claim to be a pilgrim’s paradise for not only can it call itself the cradle of Christianity but throughout history it has given birth to a stream of remarkable men and women who have contributed so much to the development of the Church. Today, we can visit any corner of this country and find both sanctuaries and scenery that inspire us spiritually and increase our understanding of our faith.

In particular, Rome was the administrative and spiritual center of an empire that stretched across the entire world, which is why it later became the center of Christianity, the largest religion in the world. For the Christian traveler, however, all this serves only as a backdrop for the enormous influence that this country has had on the history of Christendom. It was in Rome that the tradition of the successors of Peter was established and hence the papacy. Throughout Italy, some great influential Christians have been born, such as Francis of Assisi and, more recently, Padre Pio, who have inspired believers and non-believers alike. And that is exactly the reason why Italy has been included in our pilgrimage.

Anyhow, it was a long drive from Venice to Rome. We watched the movie of St. Peter along the way to keep us entertained. We arrived in Orvieto at 7pm for our dinner at a local restaurant.

Thereafter, we proceeded to Rome and checked in late at night into our hotel, IQ Hotel, which is right at the heart of downtown Roma.

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #14: Nice, France / Monaco

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 16 Oct 2013 19:24:00 +0000

After a very early wake up call and breakfast, we left for Nice. Enroute, we passed by the beautiful resorts of the French Riviera and Cote D’Azur.

The city of Nice is located on the French Riviera in Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. Blessed by a sunny, temperate climate, Nice attracts visitors from around the world. Among its many attractions are its beautiful beaches, lovely seaside promenade, interesting museums, and famous city landmarks.

Nice is just a delight, with its flower market, gorgeous coastline, sipping drinks mere feet from the Mediterranean, great shopping and delightful pastries. A dignified queen of the Cote d'Azur, Nice certainly has plenty to offer the tourist. This area of France is filled with wonderful hilltop perched villages, upscale resort cities, an independent principality and neighboring Alps villages.

As a backgrounder, Nice is the 5th most populous city in France, after Paris, Marseille, Lyon and Toulouse. Located on the southeast coast of France on the Mediterranean Sea, it is the second largest French city on the Mediterranean coast.

Down the ages, the town changed hands many times. Its strategic location and port significantly contributed to its maritime strength. For years it was an Italian dominion, and then became part of France in 1860. Culturally and architecturally enriched over time, Nice today has become a truly cosmopolitan tourist destination. The spectacular natural beauty of the area and its mild Mediterranean climate came to the attention of the English upper classes in the second half of the 18th century, when an increasing number of aristocratic families took to spending their winter there. The city’s main seaside promenade, the Promenade des Anglais (‘the Walkway of the English’) owes its name to the earliest visitors to the resort. For decades now, the picturesque Nicean surroundings have attracted not only those in search of relaxation, but also those seeking inspiration. The climate and landscape are still what attracts most visitors today.

Upon arrival in Nice, we picked up our local guide and had a panoramic tour of the city.

Tete au Carre square head Library in Nice

This sculpture called Tete au Carre (Thinking inside the box) was created by sculptor and artist, Sacha Sosno. Home to three floors of the administration building of the Central Library of Nice, it stands 26 metres high. It has to be the oddest looking library administration building ever. Really, where else have you seen an 80-foot-tall square head?

We then had a walking tour of the city, with me taking snapshots along the way.

After lunch in one of the restaus, we headed to Monaco while enjoying a beautiful weather with 25-degree (C) temps. Yes! Can’t wait to explore this city-state, the playground of the rich and the famous. But first, our bus driver had to pay a fee before we could enter the principality. So we took the opportunity to take snapshots of the gorgeous and ‘mah-velous’ paradise on earth. Aren’t the views stunning?

As an overview, the Principality of Monaco is a sovereign city-state on the Côte d'Azur (French Riviera). It is bordered on three sides by its neighbour, France, and its centre is about 16 km (9.9 mi) from Italy. With a population of 35,986, Monaco is the second smallest country (by size) in the world, after the Vatican City. I should stress that Monte Carlo is not the capital of Monaco but a government district. The country is divided into four areas: Monaco-Ville (the old city), the Condamine (port quarter), Monte Carlo (business and recreation), and Fontvieille (recreation and light industry). With no natural resources to exploit other than its location and climate, the principality has become a resort for tourists and a tax haven for businesses. Monaco boasts the world's highest GDP nominal per capita at $151,630 and is the most densely populated country in the world. It also has the world's highest life expectancy at almost 90 years, and the lowest unemployment rate.

The world's second smallest monarchy, Monaco is a principality governed under a form of constitutional monarchy, with Prince Albert II as head of state. The House of Grimaldi has ruled Monaco since 1297, and the state's sovereignty was officially recognized by the Franco-Monegasque Treaty of 1861. Despite Monaco being independent and pursuing its own foreign policy course, its national defence is the responsibility of France and, therefore, has no navy or air force. However, on both a per-capita and per-area basis, Monaco has the largest police force (515 police officers for 35,000 people) and police presence in the world. Its police include a specialist unit which operates patrol and surveillance boats. There is also a small military consisting of a bodyguard unit for the Prince and his palace.

A note of caution: Monaco is a very safe, crime-free location, but it has a strong police presence (read police state!). Every public space is blanketed with cameras and therefore any kind of disorder may produce an immediate reaction and the attendance of many officers.

One of Monaco's main sources of income is tourism. Each year, many are attracted to its casino and pleasant climate. Monaco's own citizens are not allowed to gamble in the casino. The state retains monopolies in numerous sectors, including tobacco, postal service, and the telephone network. Living standards are high, roughly comparable to those in prosperous French metropolitan areas.

Monaco is not a member of the European Union. However, it is very closely linked via a customs union with France, and as such, its currency is the same as that of France, the euro. The official language of Monaco is French. English is used by American and British residents, but the traditional national language is Monégasque, now spoken by only a minority of residents.

Monaco levies no income tax on individuals. The absence of a personal income tax in the principality has attracted to it a considerable number of wealthy "tax refugee" residents from European countries who derive the majority of their income from activity outside Monaco; celebrities such as Formula One drivers attract most of the attention, but the vast majority of them are less well-known business people. This applies to all residents of Monaco of any nationality except French citizens whose residency started after 1957. These French citizens still must pay French income tax.

Anyhow, with our local guide leading the way, we did a walking tour of Monaco. Cars are singularly useless for getting around Monaco, as you'll spend more time trying to park than if you walked. We walked through Monaco-Ville, also known as “le rocher” or “the rock.” Perched on the famous Rock, Monaco-Ville juts into the sea on Monaco's western flank and offers excellent views of the harbour and its usual armada of luxury yachts below. The city's architectural history, reflected in its medieval houses, palaces and vaulted passageways, is best experienced on foot - either alone or through one of the many organized tours available (which tend to make the city quite crowded during the summer months). Monaco-Ville is still a medieval village at heart and an astonishingly picturesque site. It is made up almost entirely of pedestrian streets and passageways and most previous century houses still remain.

Our first stop was the Monaco Cathedral, a Romanesque-Byzantine church dedicated to Saint Nicolas, and houses the remains of Prince Rainier and Princess Grace.

Exterior of the Cathedral

Interior of the Cathedral

Tomb of Princess Grace

Tomb of Prince Rainier

We then walked towards the Palace. There was a beehive of activity at that time in preparation for Prince Albert’s upcoming wedding. So we just spent our time taking snapshots of the area. The photos below would prove how stunning Monaco is.

After enjoying my not-to-be-missed tiramisu gelato, we browsed through their shops. Shopping in Monaco is usually quite exclusive and is certainly not a place for a budget traveler. There are plenty of places to melt the credit card alongside Europe's high rollers, but most tourists (me included) simply enjoy wandering through the area and window shopping without buying anything.

After our walking tour, our bus passed through the starting point where they hold the ever-famous Grand Prix. As you know, since 1955, the Monaco Grand Prix has been held annually in the streets of Monaco. It is widely considered to be one of the most prestigious automobile races in the world. The erection of the Circuit de Monaco takes six weeks to complete, and the removal after the race takes another three weeks. The circuit has many elevation changes and tight corners, along with a tunnel. This, together with being incredibly narrow and tight, makes it perhaps the most demanding Formula One track in the world.

On a personal note, there have been so many moments on this trip when I feel like someone should come along and pinch me. I have to pause and take it all in because it almost seems surreal, like I am in a dream... Am I really in Monaco looking at these stunning views that are literally to die for?

So far, that has been the best sightseeing part of this trip. I left my heart in Monaco! For me, Monaco evoked a magical dream world. We've got a glimpse of so many great places, so many beautiful people and been able to do many amazing things it seems like it can't get any better.

It reminded me of how life truly is the ying and the yang. Sometimes it's hard and challenging and sometimes it's so completely incredible that you can't quite take it all in. It’s almost like looking out into the ocean and realizing that you are almost as insignificant as a measly grain of sand.

My oohs and aahs didn’t end in Monaco. My excitement was mounting as I’ll be traveling, once again, to my fave, Italy. Again, another country. Another language. And to think that I was just in this beautiful country last year. But I didn’t realize I would be back again soon. That soon! After all, I threw my coin in the Trevi Fountain which is supposed to guarantee a return trip! See? Throwing coins at the Trevi Fountain does indeed work!

Italy, where everyone needs to visit, is the birthplace of the Roman Empire and fountainhead of the Renaissance. While there are millions of reasons to visit Italy, to list them all would take weeks. But for those interested in historical architecture, the ruins that dot the countryside are a marvel to behold. Palaces, castles, villas and gardens spread throughout the finest cities in Italy, while famous and towering cathedrals, as well as glittering Renaissance structures, dot the skylines of Florence and Siena, Rome and Naples.

For art lovers, trips to Italy are a must. There are many artistic wonders to behold in nearly every Italian city, from the northern Venetian museums all the way down to the coast of Sicily. Italy vacations can also include the sophistication and pageantry of the theater. While operas are the main draw, there are many other musical options, not to mention the chance to watch famed plays that have stood the test of time in some of the most ornate and celebrated buildings in the world.

For those more interested in culinary delights, Italy is the home of pizza and pasta, of gelato and Chianti - the importance Italian chefs place on mealtime cannot be stressed enough. Lasagna, tortellini, pesto sauce and olive oil are all trademarks of local cuisine, and the wines - primarily in the central regions of Tuscany and Umbria - are without compare.

Whether you stay in the bustling center of a major city or in a small medieval hamlet residing on a hillside, there is a wealth of sights and sounds to behold in this foreign land. And despite all the natural and artistic wonders available on display in this country, one of the main reasons to visit Italy is the people themselves. Warm and welcoming, they will ensure that this will not be your only trip to their homeland. It is not difficult to see why Italy is so popular, as it has it all: sun, beautiful landscapes, good food and wine.

Enroute to Arenzano in Italy, we passed through Liguria, a coastal region of north-western Italy, the third smallest of the Italian regions. Its capital is Genoa, self-appointed capital of the Italian Riviera. It is a popular region with tourists for its beautiful beaches, picturesque little towns along the coast, and good food. The spectacular journey along the Ligurian coast goes through tunnel after tunnel, always bursting forth from darkness into warm sunlight, the aquamarine sea glimmering at your side. It was the most scenic drive on this trip. The views were – for lack of a better description - simply stunning!

As a backgrounder, Arenzano is a coastal town in the province of Genoa. This ancient fishing village has gradually turned into a seaside resort and has been a fashionable tourist attraction over a century.

Anyhow, upon arrival in Arenzano which was quite late, we just had mass in one of the chapels of the Infant Jesus Church ~

… after which we checked in into our hotel, Poggio Hotel, for the night.

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #13: Montserrat, Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 16 Oct 2013 18:17:00 +0000

Woke up to a wonderful sunny weather at 20 degrees (C). I love Barcelona! It’s a pity that we won’t be staying long in this paradise.

After breakfast, we motored towards Montserrat to visit the Black Madonna. As I’ve said in the past, be careful what you wish for... ‘cuz you might just get it. And indeed, my wish has been granted as I’ve always wanted to see Our Lady of Montserrat in person.

As a backgrounder, Santa Maria de Montserrat is a Benedictine abbey which hosts the Virgin of Montserrat. "Montserrat" literally means "jagged (serrated) mountain" in Catalan. It describes the peculiar aspect of the rock formation, which is visible from a great distance. The mountain is composed of strikingly pink conglomerate, a form of sedimentary rock. One interesting fact about the monastery is that it is home to the world’s oldest continuing press – its first book was published in 1499.

The Monastery of Montserrat, located near the top of the 4,000-foot mountain, is home to about 80 monks. The monks welcome visitors and invite them to participate in their daily celebrations of Mass and recitations of the Liturgy of the Hours.

The Basilica, next to the monastery, is home to the revered La Moreneta, or Black Madonna. The statue of the Virgin is a small Romanesque statue made of wood believed by some to have been carved in Jerusalem in the early days of the church. It depicts a seated Black Virgin with the child Jesus on her lap. Her dark color is due to changes in the varnish with the passage of time. It is one of the black Madonnas of Europe, hence its familiar Catalan name, la Moreneta ("The little dark-skinned one"). Legend has it that the Benedictine monks could not move the statue to construct their monastery, choosing to instead build around it. The statue's sanctuary is located at the rear of the chapel, where an altar of gold surrounds the icon, and is now a site of pilgrimage. Not only is Montserrat Monastery of significant religious importance but the natural beauty surrounding the monastery is simply breathtaking.

The basilica also holds one of the monastery's most noted attractions, the 50-member Escolanía, one of the oldest and most renowned boys' choirs in Europe, dating from the 13th century. At 1pm daily you can hear them singing "Salve Regina" and the "Virolai" (hymn of Montserrat) in the basilica.

Walking paths and a funicular take visitors to Santa Cova (Holy Grotto), the traditional site of the discovery of the Black Virgin. The grotto dates back to the 17th century and was built in the shape of a cross. The funicular goes halfway, but the rest of the trip must be made on foot.

Anyhow, as we start to climb the winding road to Montserrat, one could see the stunning views, and looking back across the fields and towns gives a new perspective to the landscape. I read about the formation of the mountains rising up from the river delta over thousands of years, wherein the stones rise and fold over each other which then created these distinctive serrated formations piercing the sky. Passing a number of monastic retreats along the way, we arrived in the car park to a first glimpse of fortress-like buildings juxtaposed against the backdrop of dramatic cliffs falling away to the deep valley below. I was stunned by one of the most impressive natural attractions in Spain. It was simply spectacular!

As soon as we arrived, we immediately lined up, wended around the right side of a hall, up some steps, then some more steep narrow steps, to get close to the Black Madonna’s wooden orb that protrudes from the encased glass so pilgrims can touch it. I was impressed by the size of the Black Madonna. For some reason, my mind creates a scale whenever I read about these religious works of art, and then when that statue comes into perspective, my mind needs to come in sync with what I am seeing. Perhaps visits to various European cathedrals and national museums have shaped my expectations and perspectives. Anyhow, I just loved the fact that the Black Madonna was less than 3 feet in height. Regardless of its origin and like all other religious objects, the Black Madonna represents humankind’s faith in God. And since I was the first in line, I had time and the chance to take a picture, seen below:

And while waiting for the rest of the group, I had a chance to go to the chapel where you can see the back of the statue (photos below), and where I made my 3 wishes. The rest of the group was unable to come in because they closed the chapel immediately. Aren’t I blessed to come inside for a few moments to pray and take a picture?

Close-up view

We then attended a concelebrated mass where Fr. Jerry officiated mass along with the monks.

Interior of the Basilica

After the mass, Marilyn and I lighted votive candles for the intentions of family and friends. It is quite an amazing sight to see thousands of candles lit – each a representation of someone’s prayer. (The picture below doesn’t do justice to the length of the alley where candles have been lit.)

Montserrat was truly a moving place, made more so because of the fantastic natural environment. So, with a little bit of time on our hands, we had some photo ops around the monastery:

I left Montserrat with an infused sense of peace and the feeling that my problems are nothing but a speck in an ocean. Dealing with the day-to-day stress can leave us myopic and this was a fantastic way of taking a big step back and looking at the bigger picture. And then everything is put back into perspective.

Back on the bus, we had a very long drive back to France. Besides, we were stuck in traffic for an hour on the freeway. We didn’t get to Uzes until almost 8:00 in the evening, after which we just checked in into our hotel, Best Western Inn, which was situated out of nowhere. As expected, we got a very tiny room that leaves us no room to move about. Oh well, we can’t have it all, can we? Since it was late in the evening, we just had dinner at the hotel, after which we called it a night. The upside? It was a nice drive going there, as can be gleaned from the photo below:

To Be Continued.....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #12: Barcelona, Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 11 Oct 2013 04:25:00 +0000

The following day, we had a VERY early wake-up call (4:30am) and left at 6am bound for Barcelona since it was a long drive of ~7 hours. We had a packed breakfast box from the hotel so it kept us going in between siesta times. The weather was cloudy and quite nippy at 15 degrees (C). We stopped for lunch along the way.

Upon arrival in Barcelona, we had a panoramic tour of the city with a local guide who pointed out places of interest. However, it was raining cats and dogs, so I wasn’t able to fully appreciate the beauty that this city has to offer. Nonetheless, allow me to paint a picturesque canvass of what this city is really all about.

Panoramic View of Barcelona

In a privileged position on the northeastern coast of the Iberian Peninsula and the shores of the Mediterranean, Barcelona is the second largest city in Spain in both size and population. It is also the capital of Catalonia, 1 of the 17 Autonomous Communities that make up Spain. There are two official languages spoken in Barcelona: Catalan, generally spoken in all of Catalonia, and Castilian Spanish.

Barcelona, a 2,000-year-old master of the art of perpetual novelty, has catapulted to the rank of Spain's most-visited city. Well known as a cultural centre, it boasts splendid architecture, monuments, historical sites, natural resources, beaches and much more. It is a very modern, multicultural, cosmopolitan city. Almost 4.5 million people call Barcelona home. The city enjoys a prime location, bathed by the sea and has excellent transport links with the rest of Europe. Some people say that Barcelona is Spain's most European city because it is always open to new ideas and trends.

On the other hand, Barcelona is unequivocally a Mediterranean city, not only because of its geographic location but also and above all because of its history, tradition and cultural influences. There are monuments of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance periods, but most characteristic is what has been built during the last 100 years. The city continues to evolve as a centre of design, as a gastronomic powerhouse, as an educational and business centre, and potentially the coolest city in the world. And one the world never tires of visiting.

Our first stop was Montjuic to see the Estadi Olimpic or Olympic Stadium Spain, site of exciting sporting events. In 1929, Montjuic hosted the International Exposition and began a large-scale construction process on the hill, one of the results of which was the Estadi Olimpic. Several years ago, Estadi Olimpic was used as a paddock for racing teams participating in the Spanish Grand Prix. Now this amazing facility, a must-see stop for any sports enthusiast, serves as a practice ground for the Espanyol football team. The Olympics transformed Montjuic and Barcelona again in 1992. The Olympic Stadium Spain underwent a transformation and was remodeled to seat 65,000 people.

Thereafter, we continued our panoramic tour by passing through Passeig de Gràcia, a major avenue in Barcelona which is also one of its most important shopping and business areas, containing several of the city's most celebrated pieces of architecture. In terms of the cost of renting or buying property anywhere in this avenue, Passeig de Gràcia is nowadays regarded as the most expensive street in Barcelona and also in Spain.

Then on to Diagonal Avenue, the longest avenue in Barcelona that cuts the city in two, diagonally from west to east (by Barcelona's compass), hence the name. Cool, eh?

And finally, we got off the bus to gaze in awe and wonder at the most-awaited La Sagrada Familia. By this time, the rains have stopped and the sun came out. We were blessed to have mass inside the Basilica, after which the local guide explained in detail the meaning and importance of each facade, which I will explain in detail below.

In a nutshell, the landmark is one of the most popular attractions in Spain, though its construction has taken more than 100 years and is still underway today. La Sagrada Familia is constantly evolving into a more stunning masterpiece.

La Sagrada Familia is dedicated to the Holy Family. Construction began in 1881, and architect Antoni Gaudi dedicated several years of his life to making it the “last great sanctuary of Christendom.” It is one of Gaudi’s most famous works in Barcelona. La Sagrada Familia is filled with Christian symbolism, with detailed sculptures and majestic spires adorning the facility. Some of the original ideas of Gaudi have been modified with the passage of time. Wars and anarchists have delayed its construction; however, the builders committed to finishing this great work are determined to see it to the end.

The estimated completion date of the La Sagrada Familia is approximately 2026, which will mark the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death. That might seem like a long time, but Gaudi meant for La Sagrada Familia to be quite unique. Many of its stones are shaped differently than the next, and must be sent off-site to be shaped accurately. Based on building techniques available in the early 1900s, it was once thought that construction would take several hundred years!

This great masterpiece is truly awe-inspiring that I want to dig deep into its history.

La Sagrada Família was the inspiration of a Catalan bookseller, Josep Maria Bocabella, founder of Asociación Espiritual de Devotos de San José (Spiritual Association of Devotees of St. Joseph). After a visit to the Vatican in 1872, Bocabella returned from Italy with the intention of building a church inspired by that at Loreto. The crypt of the church, funded by donations, was begun on March 1882 to the design of the architect, Francisco de Paula del Villar, whose plan was for a Gothic revival church of a standard form. Antoni Gaudí began work on the project in 1883. On March 1883, Villar retired from the project, and Gaudí assumed responsibility for its design, which he changed radically.

On the subject of the extremely long construction period, Gaudí is said to have remarked, "My client is not in a hurry." When Gaudí died in 1926, the basilica was between 15% and 25% complete. After Gaudí's death, work continued until interrupted by the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Parts of the unfinished basilica and Gaudí's models and workshop were destroyed during the war by Catalan anarchists. The present design is based on reconstructed versions of the lost plans as well as on modern adaptations. Since 1940 so many architects have carried on the work. The current director, Jordi Bonet i Armengol, has been introducing computers into the design and construction process since the 1980s.

One projection anticipates construction completion around 2026, the centennial of Gaudí's death, while the project's information leaflet estimates a completion date in 2017, accelerated by additional funding from visitors to Barcelona following the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. Computer-aided design technology has been used to accelerate construction of the building, which had previously been expected to last for several hundred years, based on building techniques available in the early 20th century. Current technology allows stone to be shaped off-site by a CNC milling machine, whereas in the 20th century, the stone was carved by hand.

The main nave was covered and an organ installed in mid-2010, allowing the still unfinished building to be used for religious services. The church was consecrated by Pope Benedict XVI on November 7, 2010 in front of a congregation of 6,500 people, including King Juan Carlos I and Queen Sofia of Spain. A further 50,000 people followed the consecration Mass from outside the basilica, where more than 100 bishops and 300 priests were on hand to offer Holy Communion. No masses were allowed before its consecration. Therefore, we were really blessed to have come at such an opportune time because we have been allowed to have mass celebrated inside the Basilica.

Gaudí's original design calls for a total of 18 spires, representing in ascending order of height the 12 Apostles, the 4 Evangelists, the Virgin Mary and, tallest of all, Jesus Christ. Eight spires have been built as of 2010, corresponding to 4 apostles at the Nativity facade and 4 apostles at the Passion facade.

The Evangelists' spires will be surmounted by sculptures of their traditional symbols: a bull (St Luke), a winged man (St Matthew), an eagle (St John), and a lion (St Mark). The central spire of Jesus Christ is to be surmounted by a giant cross; the spire's total height (170m (560 ft)) will be one metre less than that of Montjuïc hill in Barcelona. The lower spires are surmounted by communion hosts with sheaves of wheat and chalices with bunches of grapes, representing the Eucharist. The completion of the spires will make Sagrada Família the tallest church building in the world.

The Church will have three grand façades: the Nativity façade to the East, the Passion façade to the West, and the Glory façade to the South (yet to be completed). The Nativity Façade was built before work was interrupted in 1935 and bears the most direct Gaudí influence. The Passion façade is especially striking for its spare, gaunt, tormented characters, including emaciated figures of Christ being scourged at the pillar; and Christ on the Cross. These controversial designs are the work of Josep Maria Subirachs. The Glory façade, on which construction began in 2002, will be the largest and most monumental of the three and will represent one's ascension to God. It will also depict various scenes such as Hell, Purgatory, and will include elements such as the Seven Deadly Sins and the Seven Heavenly Virtues.

Nativity Façade

Constructed between 1894 and 1930, the Nativity façade was the first façade to be completed. Dedicated to the birth of Jesus, it is decorated with scenes reminiscent of elements of life. Characteristic of Gaudí's naturalistic style, the sculptures are ornately arranged and decorated with scenes and images from nature, each a symbol in their own manner. For instance, the three porticos are separated by two large columns, and at the base of each lies a turtle or a tortoise (one to represent the land and the other the sea; each are symbols of time as something set in stone and unchangeable). In contrast to the figures of turtles and their symbolism, two chameleons can be found at either side of the façade, and are symbolic of change.

The façade faces the rising sun to the northeast, a symbol for the birth of Christ. It is divided into three porticos, each of which represents a theological virtue (Hope, Faith and Charity). The Tree of Life rises above the door of Jesus in the portico of Charity. Four towers complete the façade and are each dedicated to a Saint (Matthias the Apostle, Saint Barnabas, Jude the Apostle, and Simon the Zealot).

Gaudí chose this façade to embody the structure and decoration of the whole church. He was well aware that he would not finish the church and that he would need to set an artistic and architectural example for others to follow. He also chose for this façade to be the first on which to begin construction and for it to be, in his opinion, the most attractive and accessible to the public.

Passion Façade

In contrast to the highly decorated Nativity Façade, the Passion Façade is austere, plain and simple, with ample bare stone, and is carved with harsh straight lines to resemble a skeleton if it were reduced to only bone. Dedicated to the Passion of Christ, the suffering of Jesus during his crucifixion, the façade was intended to portray the sins of man. Construction began in 1954, following the drawings and instructions left by Gaudí for future architects and sculptors. The towers were completed in 1976, and in 1987 a team of sculptors, headed by Josep Maria Subirachs, began work sculpting the various scenes and details of the façade. They aimed to give a rigid, angular form to provoke a dramatic effect. Gaudí intended for this façade to strike fear into the onlooker. He wanted to "break" arcs and "cut" columns, and to use the effect of chiaroscuro (dark angular shadows contrasted by harsh rigid light) to further show the severity and brutality of Christ's sacrifice.

Facing the setting sun, indicative and symbolic of the death of Christ, the Passion Façade is supported by 6 large and inclined columns, designed to resemble sequoia trunks. Above there is a pyramidal pediment, made up of 18 bone-shaped columns, which culminate in a large cross with a crown of thorns. Each of the four towers is dedicated to an apostle (James, Thomas, Philip, or Bartholomew) and, like the Nativity Façade, there are three porticos, each representing the theological virtues, though in a much different light.

Glory Façade

The largest and most striking of the facades will be the Glory Façade, on which construction began in 2002. It will be the principal façade and will offer access to the central nave. Dedicated to the Celestial Glory of Jesus, it represents the road to God: Death, Final Judgment, and Glory, while Hell is left for those who deviate from God's will. Aware that he would not live long enough to see this façade completed, Gaudí made only a general sketch of what the façade would look like. He intended for the church, like many cathedrals and facades throughout history, not only to be completed by other architects but also to incorporate other architectural and artistic styles.

To reach the Glory Portico, there will be a large staircase, which will create an underground passage beneath Carrer Mallorca, representing hell and vice. It will be decorated with demons, idols, false gods, heresy and schisms, etc. Purgatory and death will also be depicted, the latter using tombs along the ground. The portico will have 7 large columns dedicated to spiritual gifts. The base of the columns will be representations of the Seven Deadly Sins, and at the top, The Seven Heavenly Virtues.

If you will be amazed at the cathedral’s exterior, wait until you step inside when a sense of awe and wonder immediately cranks up by several magnitudes. The interior is like being in some ethereal forest where slender cream and polished granite clad columns soar upward to branch-like trees that support a forest canopy of giant downward-facing stars or flowers. And the streaming light and modern windows, some plain glass and some stained, complete the scene. And as your gaze continues to wander around, you will be continually drawn to those gorgeous fluted columns following them up to that amazing vaulted ceiling, and realizing at the same time the total inadequacy of words to describe the vision being experienced. Trying to capture it on film is well nigh impossible.

Above the main altar

At the center of the church, looking up at the ceiling

Today, cash receipts from tourist visitors and public donations mean the Sagrada project is self-supporting, which explains why the citizens of Barcelona have such a phlegmatic attitude toward the length of time the Cathedral is taking to build. But it was not always that way and in the early stage of construction (1909), dissatisfaction among Barcelona’s poor, coupled with perceptions of Church wealth, exploded into rioting, and many religious buildings in the city were attacked and destroyed. However, the name Antoni Gaudi carried sufficient respect to ensure that the Sagrada was free from the attention of rampaging mobs. Perhaps in the light of those upheavals, we can see the Sagrada Familia – in addition to its dedicatory name – standing as a symbol of the institution of the family: under attack by unholy things and yet still surviving basically intact. Maybe the building will never be finished but will stand instead as a symbol of our own lives, our own spiritual journeys; works in progress, largely unfinished until such time as life ends when at last our spiritual houses will be judged complete, one way or another.

Perhaps, La Sagrada Familia, even in its incomplete state, has to fall into the category of being one of the man-made wonders of the world. So, does it really matter if in another 200 years it still remains unfinished? I don’t think it does. After all, several hundred years is not outside the norm for completing many of Europe’s most famous cathedrals. Besides, whenever Antoni Gaudi was asked why he persisted with a project he would never live to see completed, he would invariably reply, "My Master is in no hurry."

Leaving the church and back on the bus, we checked in, and had dinner, at our hotel, Hotel Catalonia Suite, where Grace and I were blessed to have a suite, instead of a room. Blessings galore….. Yes, indeed!!!

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #11: Segovia / Madrid, Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 09 Oct 2013 19:01:00 +0000

After breakfast the following day, we proceeded to the Shrine of St. John of the Cross for the mass and to visit his tomb. Segovia is the final resting place of the saint.

By way of introduction, John de Yepes, youngest child of Gonzalo de Yepes and Catherine Alvarez, poor silk weavers of Toledo, learned the importance of self-sacrificing love from his parents. His father gave up wealth, status, and comfort when he married a weaver's daughter and was disowned by his noble family. After his father died, his mother kept the destitute family together as they wandered homeless in search of work. These were the examples of sacrifice that John followed with his own great love -- God.

When the family finally found work, John still went hungry in the middle of the wealthiest city in Spain. At 14, John took a job caring for hospital patients who suffered from incurable diseases and madness. It was out of this poverty and suffering that John learned to search for beauty and happiness not in the world, but in God.

After John joined the Carmelite order, Saint Teresa of Avila asked him to help her reform movement. John supported her belief that the order should return to its life of prayer. But many Carmelites felt threatened by this reform, and some members of John's own order kidnapped him. He was locked in a cell 6X10 feet and beaten three times a week by the monks. There was only one tiny window high up near the ceiling. Yet in that unbearable dark, cold, and desolation, his love and faith were like fire and light. He had nothing left but God -- and God brought John his greatest joys in that tiny cell.

After 9 months, John escaped by unscrewing the lock on his door and creeping past the guard. Taking only the mystical poetry he had written in his cell, he climbed out a window using a rope made of strips of blankets. With no idea where he was, he followed a dog to civilization. He hid from pursuers in a convent infirmary where he read his poetry to the nuns. From then on, his life was devoted to sharing and explaining his experience of God's love.

When he fell ill, he was moved to the monastery of Ubeda where he at first was treated very unkindly, but at last even his adversaries came to acknowledge his sanctity, and his funeral was the occasion of a great outburst of enthusiasm. The body, still incorrupt, as has been ascertained within the last few years, was moved to Segovia.

Anyhow, before going inside the Church of St. John of the Cross, we had some photo ops against the backdrop of the famous Alcázar castle, source of inspiration to Walt Disney, and where Queen Isabel promised Columbus the financial backing he needed to discover America.

As a backgrounder, the Alcázar of Segovia (Segovia Castle) is a stone fortification, located in the old city of Segovia. Rising out on a rocky crag above the confluence of the rivers Eresma and Clamores near the Guadarrama mountains, it is one of the most distinctive castle-palaces in Spain by virtue of its shape - like the bow of a ship. The Alcázar was originally built as a fortress but has served as a royal palace, a state prison, a Royal Artillery College and a military academy since then.

Today, the Alcázar remains one of the most popular historical sights in Spain and is one of the three major attractions in Segovia. Notable rooms are the Hall of Ajimeces which houses many works of art, the Hall of the Throne and the Hall of Kings with a frieze representing all of the Spanish Kings and Queens.

After mass at the Shrine of St. John of the Cross, we motored towards Madrid, the capital of Spain. It is a city almost without equal in Europe. It is the vivacious, teeming, always beating heart of Spain. Long stifled under the fascist regime of Francisco Franco, Madrid has enjoyed a rebirth of political and social freedom during the last quarter century not witnessed since the Spanish capital's golden age in the 16th century.

Contemporary Madrid is a sprawling, modern city with a population of over 3 million. While the suburban areas are awash in uniform, concrete apartment buildings, the city center is a delightful mix of narrow alleyways, gourmet restaurants, and world famous modern art and Renaissance museums. Everyone arrives in the capital with varied pictures of Madrid in their mind, yet the city always shows you something new, something you missed or had not expected.

Located in the heart of the Iberian Peninsula and right in the center of the Castilian plain 646 meters above sea level (the highest capital in Europe), the climate of Madrid is characterized by warm dry summers and cool winters. A cosmopolitan city, a business center, headquarters for the Public Administration, Government, Spanish Parliament and the home of the Spanish Royal Family, Madrid also plays a major role in both the banking and industrial sectors. Most of its industry is located in the Southern fringe of the city, where important textile, food and metal working factories are clustered. A city of great monuments, it is also characterized by intense cultural and artistic activity and a very lively nightlife. But it is not just a cultural destination. It is also a lively metropolis with many pubs, cafes, discos and nightclubs open late into the night. So don't be surprised if you get stuck in a traffic jam at four in the morning and the people you meet are not necessarily going off to work. Hmmm……

Upon arrival into the city, we immediately checked in into our hotel, Hotel Ganivet, after which Grace and I ventured out for some retail therapy. But I was quite disappointed because most of the shops that we sauntered into were selling “made in China” stuff. Yikes!

Anyhow at the appointed time, we went back to the hotel to leave for a panoramic tour of the city with a local guide. Our first stop was to pose in front of the monument of Jose P. Rizal, the Philippines’ national hero. Rizal’s monument was inaugurated on December 5, 1996 along the Avenida de Las Islas Filipinas in Madrid to commemorate the 100th year of his death. The inauguration was part of the celebrations marking the centennial of Philippine independence from Spain.

To encapsulate his life, Dr. José Rizal was a Filipino polymath, nationalist and the most prominent advocate for reforms in the Philippines during the Spanish colonial era and its eventual independence from Spain. Rizal’s military trial and execution in 1896, during the Spanish period, made him a martyr of the Philippine Revolution. He was a polyglot (someone who uses many languages), who was conversant in at least 10 languages. He was a prolific poet, essayist, diarist, correspondent, and novelist. His most famous works were his two novels, “Noli me Tangere” and “El Filibusterismo.”

Rizal earned a Bachelor of Arts degree from the Ateneo Municipal de Manila. He later enrolled in Medicine and Philosophy and Letters at the University of Santo Tomas. He continued his studies in Spain where he earned the degree of Licentiate in Medicine from the Universidad Central de Madrid. He also attended the University of Paris and earned a second doctorate at the University of Heidelberg.

As a political figure, Rizal was the founder of La Liga Filipina, a civic organization that subsequently gave birth to the Katipunan led by Bonifacio and Aguinaldo. He was a proponent of institutional reforms by peaceful means rather than by violent revolution. The general consensus among Rizal scholars, however, attributed his martyred death as the catalyst that precipitated the Philippine Revolution.

After our group photo in front of Rizal’s monument, we continued with our panoramic tour of the city. The city is divided into the “old Madrid” which has the old buildings; and the “new Madrid” which has the skyscrapers. Having said this, however, I noticed that while Madrid possesses a modern infrastructure, it has preserved the look and feel of many of its historic neighborhoods and streets, as can be gleaned from the photos below:

Plaza de Cibeles

Plaza de Cibeles is one of the finest squares in Madrid, and as a result of its beauty, it has managed to become a major symbol of the city. The imperial majesty of Spain's capital city is on display at this busy plaza, with buildings such as the Palacio de Comunicaciones and the Banco de España figuring among the most architecturally appealing structures in the entire city. In the center of it all lies the attractive Cibeles Fountain, which is a major symbol of the city in its own right. The immediate area in general boasts an enticing appeal that is simply hard to deny, and some of the best Madrid views can be enjoyed from any number of vantage points.

Plaza Mayor

No visit to Madrid would be complete without enjoying some time in the Plaza Mayor. Plaza Mayor is Madrid's most emblematic square, and this has a lot to do with its rich history and its overall grandeur. The Plaza Mayor Statue depicts Philip III on a horse and dates back to the early 1600s. In fact, hanging out in this attractive plaza is one of the top things to do in Spain's capital city. At the base of the square's buildings are a number of shops and restaurants, and even if you aren't up for shopping or dining, the square can be a great place to just hang out and take it all in.

Puerta de Alcalá

Puerta de Alcalá stands at Plaza de la Independencia in Madrid. The original Puerta de Alcalá, which stood nearby, was built in 1599 as a welcome gesture to Doña Margarita de Austria, who was the wife of King Felipe III. When Carlos III came to the throne of Spain one and a half centuries later, he entered Madrid in great style but was not at all pleased with this city gate, thinking it quite unsuitable for an important royal appearance.

He demanded that a much more flamboyant gate should be built, and called for architects to present their proposed plans. Although several great architects of the age presented their proposals, it was an Italian architect, Francisco Sabatini, who was finally granted the commission. In 1764, the original Puerta de Alcalá was demolished and work started on the grand new gate. The new Puerta de Alcalá was completed in 1769 and its official inauguration took place in 1778. The gate has a large central semicircular topped arch, flanked by two similar arches. They are in turn flanked by two square lintelled gates, five in all.

Puerta del Sol

The Puerta del Sol (Gate of the Sun), located in the very heart of Madrid, is one of the best known and busiest places in Madrid. This is the centre (Km 0) of the radial network of Spanish roads, from which all roads and highways start. The square also contains the famous clock whose bells mark the traditional eating of the Twelve Grapes and the beginning of a new year.

The Puerta del Sol contains a number of well known sights associated both domestically and internationally with Spain. On the south side, the old Post Office serves as the office of the President of Madrid, the head of the regional government of the Autonomous Community of Madrid (not to be confused with the Madrid City Council, which is housed elsewhere). Also on its south side, the square holds a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain, nicknamed "el rey alcalde" ("the king mayor") due to the extensive public works program he set in motion. On the east side lies a statue of a bear and a madrone tree (madroño), the heraldic symbol of Madrid.

The statue of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza in Plaza de España

Neptune Fountain

Colorful facade of a building in a street in old Madrid

Madrid is the administrative and financial capital of Spain. In here you will find the most important Stock exchange in Spain. Almost all the important financial institutions have their headquarters here.

BBVA skyscraper

Banco Bilbao Vizcaya Argentaria (BBVA) is one of the biggest banks in Spain. Although its headquarters is in Bilbao, the bank has a huge delegation in Madrid's financial district. It is one of the most important architectural landmarks of Madrid, with its striking ocher color, more intense as time passes due to the oxidation of its facade steel. It has a rectangular floor with round corners, and the facade is made of continuous glass and steel, allowing exterior views from every point. The South, East and West facades also have steel sunshades in every floor, contributing to its characteristic look.

Torre Picasso

From 1988 till 2007, Torre Picasso (Picasso Tower) was the tallest building in Madrid with its 157m (515 ft) and 43 floors. A notable feature of Torre Picasso is the wide entrance arch, supporting the whole façade over it, with an underground steel structure serving to reinforce it. The gap under this arch is covered by a special security glass. It is strictly forbidden to take any photos of the tower or any other construction from within the perimeter of the property. Guards will demand you leave the premises at the mere sight of your camera, citing security concerns and image rights. While the owners present the tower as an emblematic symbol of Madrid for the citizens, for photography enthusiasts, the tower has become a symbol of restriction and prohibition.

Kio Towers

The Puerta de Europa towers (Gate of Europe or just Torres KIO) are twin office buildings in Madrid. The towers have a height of 114m (374 ft) and have 26 floors. They were constructed from 1989 to 1996. They were designed by the American architects, Philip Johnson and John Burgee, built by Fomento de Construcciones y Contratas and commissioned in 1996 by the Kuwait Investment Office (hence their initial name "Torres KIO" or "KIO Towers"). Each building is 115m tall with an inclination of 15°, making them the first inclined skyscrapers in the world.

Cuatro Torres Business Area

Cuatro Torres Business Area (CTBA) (Four Towers Business Area) is a business district located in the Paseo de la Castellana. The area contains the tallest skyscrapers in Madrid and Spain (Torre Espacio, Torre de Cristal, Torre Sacyr Vallehermoso and Torre Caja Madrid). The construction of the buildings finished in 2008. The complex was formerly known as Madrid Arena.

Thereafter, we got off the bus to go to the Almudena Cathedral. Along the way, we passed through the Royal Palace for some photo ops outside the palace. I was quite disappointed that we were unable to go inside the palace.

Palacio Real de Madrid (The Royal Palace of Madrid)

The official residence of the King of Spain in the city of Madrid, the Royal Palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Juan Carlos and the Royal Family do not reside in the palace, choosing instead the more modest Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid. The palace is owned by the Spanish State and administered by the Patrimonio Nacional, a public agency of the Ministry of the Presidency. It is partially open to the public, except when it is being used for official business.

Palacio Real visitors should prepare themselves to be wowed, especially if they venture inside the sprawling complex to get a look at some of the more than 2,000 rooms. It is a most impressive palace, its size intended to dwarf the other palaces on the European continent at the time.

Thereafter, we headed to the Almudena Cathedral, the main cathedral in Madrid. On our way there, I saw a headless man, as shown below:

:)

The construction of the Almudena Cathedral was conceived by Carlos I in 1518, though work didn't start until the 1880s. Delays were prominent throughout the construction process. Interestingly enough, the Catedral de la Almudena, as it is known in Spanish, wasn't finished until 1993. As you might imagine, this has resulted in a number of different architectural styles being implemented. The exterior has a mostly neoclassical appeal that blends well with the Palacio Real, which is located directly across from the facade of the cathedral. As for its interior, it is decidedly neo-gothic and has a relatively modern feel.

Exterior of Almudena Cathedral

Interior of Almudena Cathedral

By way of introduction, the devotion to Our Lady of Almudena, patroness of Madrid, began in the 11th century. Tradition tells us that when Dom Alfonso VI conquered Madrid in 1083, he immediately ordered the purification of the Church of Santa Maria, which had been profaned by the Moors.

Since the statue of Our Lady, which the Apostle St. James had placed in that building in the early days of the Church, had disappeared, the King, together with the religious authorities, made a procession praying to Our Lord to help them find the statue. The pious cortege processed around the walls of the city, singing and praying. At a certain moment, part of the wall fell and they found the statue of Our Lady that had been hidden there for over 300 years. On either side of the statue were two candles – still lighted and burning – that Catholics had placed there in homage of the Virgin before closing the niche where they had hidden her statue. Almudena means market or granary, and this name was given to the statue because the place where it was hidden was near the Moorish granary.

No discussion about the Almudena Cathedral would be complete without mentioning how controversial the building is. The relative lack of Old World charm when compared to other continental cathedrals such as Paris' Notre Dame is part of the reason why it brings on some criticism. Regardless of what your final take might be, this Cathedral in Madrid nonetheless deserves a look. There is a certain beauty to the outside, especially when viewed in tandem with the Palacio Real from afar, and the grandiose interior is impressive. The soaring ceilings and colorful paintings in the main nave add to the somewhat tame beauty. Pop art stained glass windows hint at the church's relatively young age, although these windows were recently revealed to be copies. In 2004, the Almudena Cathedral served as the venue for the wedding of Spain's Prince Felipe.

After the panoramic tour, we got off at the plaza and went shopping. But the shopping center that we went into was deserted, so we (Marilyn, Grace and I) decided to walk back to the hotel. With our stomachs grumbling, we enjoyed some tapas at the hotel’s bar and took it easy. Armed with some fuel, we decided to have some retail therapy (yet again). Well, what else can we do, right? Again, I was disappointed with their shops, so I returned to the hotel empty-handed; had dinner, after which I retired early for the night as we have a long day ahead of us.

As an aside, people in Madrid are very friendly and open minded. It's not difficult to make new friends (especially at night). If you ever come to Madrid, you will notice that people are always ready to help you. The problem, however, is that not many people speak English. Although English is studied in schools, many locals only know a few words.

Madrileños (how locals are called) like going to bed late at night and waking up late in the morning. They usually start their day with chocolate con churros (thick hot chocolate with deep-fried hoops of batter) or coffee with 'bollos' (rolls). They eat lunch at three o'clock, go back to work at four till seven or eight, and eat dinner at ten at home. If and when they go out, they eat dinner at eleven or even later.

So - if you're planning a travel to Spain, try to adapt to this timetable, because restaurants usually open for lunch at one or two o'clock and close at four, and open at nine and close at midnight for dinner.

To Be Continued.....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #10: Alba de Tormes / Salamanca / Avila / Segovia, Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Mon, 07 Oct 2013 05:42:00 +0000

After breakfast, we said goodbye to Fatima and motored back to Spain, switched our timepieces ahead by an hour, and proceeded to Alba de Tormes, an old-world little town southeast of Salamanca, which is one of the most important pilgrimage centers in Spain in which St. Teresa of Avila who died here in 1582, is revered.

I’ll discuss St. Teresa of Avila in detail later, but in the meantime, let me expound on the Carmelite convent where we were privileged to have our mass, visit the tomb of St. Teresa and have photos with her relics.

The Discalced Carmelite Monastery of the Annunciation was founded on January 25, 1571 by Saint Teresa of Ávila. The restless Teresa spent her last 15 days of her life in a small cell of the ground floor of the monastery where she experienced solemn encounters with God before dying on October 4, 1582. Although Teresa's holiness was recognized throughout Spain during her lifetime, it is through her beautiful death where her glorious story begins. Here, her incorrupt body is kept, along with two of her most renowned relics - her left arm and her heart. For this reason, this Carmelite Monastery is known throughout the entire world and it is a renowned route for pilgrims and tourists.

Thereafter, we proceeded to Salamanca and checked in into our hotel, Hotel Catalonia Salamanca, for the night.

As a backgrounder, Salamanca is a city large enough to be able to offer the advantages of a real city but at the same time it keeps the intimacy of a village. Its inhabitants speak the "purest" Spanish in Spain - Castilian. For this reason, Salamanca is enormously popular with people all over the world who want to learn Spanish. It is probably best known for having the oldest university in Spain and one of the oldest in Europe. This university is still what gives ambiance to the town. You can see hundreds of students passing through the streets and enjoying numerous and beautifully decorated bars until late at night (perhaps you may wonder when they have time to study). It is therefore a very attractive place to visit if you are looking for cultural values, want to enjoy night life and learn a bit of Spanish.

Anyhow, we walked around town to browse through the shops, but since it has been drizzling the whole day, we returned to the hotel, had dinner, and called it a night.

The following day, I woke up to a cloudy and nippy day, around 9 degrees (C), and had continental breakfast (finally!). Yes, I missed bacon! Didn’t I say I love Spain? haha

I was excited because I was looking forward to explore Avila and Segovia. The dreary weather didn’t dampen my excitement one bit, and by noon, we were blessed with a bright and sunny weather with temps up to a comfortable 25 degrees (C).

Upon checking out of our hotel, we motored to Avila, the best preserved walled city in the world and home of St. Teresa of Avila.

As a backgrounder, Saint Teresa was born into a noble family of Ávila on March 28, 1515. Religiously inclined from a young age, Teresa was fascinated by the lives of the saints and ran away several times to seek martyrdom at the hands of the Moors. The "Four Posts" monument on the hill above Ávila marks the spot where her father brought her back at the age of 7.

At the age of 19, Teresa left home to join the Carmelite Monastery of the Incarnation in Ávila. In the cloister, Teresa practiced severe asceticism and mystical contemplation. However, Teresa found the Carmelite order to be too worldly, so she worked as a reformer of the order for much of her life. In 1562, she founded a new convent in Ávila called St. Joseph's, and moved there in 1563 where she wrote a "Constitution" enforcing strict asceticism.

For the first 5 years in her new convent, Teresa devoted herself entirely to spiritual contemplation and mysticism whereby she experienced many visions and mystical ecstasies, the most famous of which is the "transverberation of the heart," which she described in her Autobiography: “The angel appeared to me to be thrusting the spear of fire into my heart and piercing my very entrails; when he drew it out, he seemed to draw them out also, and left me all on fire with a great love of God.” This event inspired one of Bernini's most famous sculptures, “The Ecstasy of St. Teresa”, located in Rome.

In 1567, Teresa was granted permission by the Carmelite general to establish more Carmelite convents. Shortly thereafter, she began making long journeys throughout Spain, reforming old convents and founding new ones. She founded 16 new convents during her 20 years of reform activity.

During one of her journeys, Teresa met St. John of the Cross, who became her spiritual advisor. He joined her in her reforming efforts and paralleled her work with Carmelite nuns among Carmelite monks. More about St. John of the Cross later.

St. Teresa died from illness on one of her journeys from Burgos to Alba de Tormes on October 4, 1582. Many miracles and legends have been associated with St. Teresa since her death. The night she died, her monastic cell back in Ávila was said to fill with a pleasant fragrance. When her body was exhumed 330 years later, her coffin emitted the same heavenly fragrance. This miracle is known in Catholicism as the "odor of sanctity." It is also said that when Teresa's body was examined upon her death, she was found to have a perforation of the heart, reflecting her most famous mystical experience. According to another legend, a hand severed from St. Teresa's body could perform miracles.

St. Teresa has been highly revered within Catholicism ever since. In 1622, she was canonized by Pope Gregory XV at the same time as Ignatius of Loyola and Francis Xavier. In 1817, the Cortes declared St. Teresa the patron saint of Spain. In 1970, Pope Paul VI gave St. Teresa the honorific title "Doctor of the Church." She was the first woman in Catholic history to receive that title.

The Convent of St. Teresa, which belongs to the Order of Carmelitas Descalzos (Barefoot Carmelites), is the primary shrine of St. Teresa in Ávila. Located on the Plaza de la Santa, it stands over the site of Teresa's birth. It is an active convent and much of it remains closed to visitors, but pilgrims can visit the site of Teresa's birthplace, now an elaborate chapel within the Baroque church. The chapel is decorated with scenes of the saint demonstrating her powers of levitation.

Anyhow, our first stop outside the medieval walls of Ávila was the Monastery of the Incarnation, an important stop on the pilgrimage to St. Teresa of Ávila. This is where Teresa lived for 30 years, received the advice of St. John of the Cross, began to reform the Carmelite order, wrote, and had many of her mystical experiences.

The courtyard of the monastery is paved with a visual representation of the Interior Castle, written by St. Teresa, which compares the contemplative soul to a castle with seven successive interior courts, or chambers, analogous to the seven heavens.

After mass, we had a tour of the monastery which not only remains as an active convent today but also houses a public Museum of St. Teresa where you can visit her monastic cell, tour other rooms associated with the saint, and see a variety of items used by her. A display provides an introduction to Teresa's life, with maps showing the convents she founded and a selection of her sayings. It was actually very interesting, to say the least.

Thereafter, we had a walking tour of the walled city, with our local guide pointing out places of interest.

As a backgrounder, Ávila is a medieval city in the province of Castile-Léon in western Spain, about 70 miles northwest of Madrid. Founded in the 11th century to protect the Spanish territories from the Moors, Ávila has a magnificently well-preserved city wall, a historic cathedral, a number of Romanesque churches, and an authentic medieval atmosphere. For all these reasons, the entire Old Town of Ávila has been designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. For pilgrims, however, the city of Ávila is important because of its association with the great mystic and reformer, St. Teresa de Jesus, better known as St. Teresa of Ávila.

Avila is noted for its tall city wall which encircles the entire old city. As you travel from the south to Avila, the first thing you’ll notice is the drop in temperature as Avila is 1130 meters above sea level. The shape of the current wall is due, primarily, to construction done in the 11th and 12th centuries. Today the wall is considered one of the best preserved in the world. They are a couple miles long and average 40 feet in height. The walls are partitioned by over 80 towers that reach as high as 65 feet, the equivalent of a six-story building. There are nine gates allowing you to enter and exit the town. The amazing thing about the walls is their condition. They are in a near-perfect state. If you did not know better, you would swear they were built last week. Happily, you can tromp up and down the towers and walk across the top of the walls. Looking out over the area surrounding Avila, you get a definite feel for what it must have been like for a soldier to defend the city.

The fantastic medieval fortified walls of Avila are a sight to behold

Were you addicted to the Lord of the Rings’ movies? Do you enjoy reading about Camelot? Do you have a thing for castles? If you do, then you are going to love Avila. As I did. Indeed, the Avila walls are a sight to behold. However, keep in mind that Avila is at a high elevation and, therefore, it can be cold in the winter and blazing hot in the summer.

After the guided tour, we had some free time to ourselves. First item in the agenda was FOOD! Marilyn took Grace and me out for lunch, after which we took the opportunity to have some shots of the stunning fortified city.

Thereafter, we motored towards Segovia, famous for its world renowned Roman Aqueduct, the largest and best preserved of its kind anywhere in the world. The Aqueduct of Segovia is a Roman aqueduct and one of the most significant and best-preserved ancient monuments left on the Iberian Peninsula. It is the foremost symbol of Segovia, as evidenced by its presence on the city's coat of arms. The aqueduct is the city's most important architectural landmark. It had been kept functioning throughout the centuries and preserved in excellent condition. It provided water to Segovia, mainly to the Segovia Alcázar, until recently. Because of differential decay of stone blocks, water leakage from the upper viaduct, and pollution that caused the granite ashlar masonry to deteriorate and crack, the site was listed in the 2006 World Monuments Watch by the World Monuments Fund. Contrary to popular belief, vibrations caused by traffic that used to pass under the arches did not affect the aqueduct due to its great mass.

In the olden times, the aqueduct transports waters from Fuente Fría River, situated in the nearby mountains, some 17 km (11 mi) from the city in a region known as La Acebeda. It runs another 15 km (9.3 mi) before arriving in the city. The water is first gathered in a tank known as El Caserón (or Big House), and is then led through a channel to a second tower known as the Casa de Aguas (or Waterhouse). There it is naturally decanted and sand settles out before the water continues its route. Next the water travels 728m (796 yd) on a 1% grade until it is high upon the Postigo, a rocky outcropping on which the old city center, the Segovia Alcázar, was built. Then, at Plaza de Díaz Sanz, the structure makes an abrupt turn and heads toward Plaza Azoguejo. It is there the monument begins to display its full splendor.

At its tallest, the aqueduct reaches a height of 28.5m (93 ft 6 in), including nearly 6m (19 ft 8 in) of foundation. There are both single and double arches supported by pillars. From the point the aqueduct enters the city until it reaches Plaza de Díaz Sanz, it boasts 75 single arches and 44 double arches (or 88 arches when counted individually), followed by 4 single arches, totaling 167 arches in all. The aqueduct is built of unmortared, brick-like granite blocks. During the Roman era, each of the three tallest arches displayed a sign in bronze letters, indicating the name of its builder along with the date of construction. Today, two niches are still visible, one on each side of the aqueduct. One of them is known to have held the image of Hercules, who according to legend was founder of the city. The other niche now contains the images of the Virgen de la Fuencisla (the Patroness of Segovia) and Saint Stephen.

By way of introduction, Segovia is Spain and Castile at its best - twisting alleyways, the highest concentration of Romanesque churches in all of Europe, pedestrian streets where no cars are allowed, the aroma of roast suckling pig around every corner (yum – my arteries are quivering just thinking about it), all surrounded by the city's medieval wall, which itself is bordered by two rivers and an extensive green-belt park with miles of shaded walks. The tallest building in Segovia is still the 16th-century Cathedral, a prominent landmark as one approaches from any direction.

A city of great importance in Roman and medieval times, Segovia's population has remained relatively stable over the centuries and today hovers at around 50,000. Famous in the 15th century for its wool production, today's activities are based on agriculture and tourism. The tourist sector was greatly assisted in 1985 when UNESCO declared Segovia "Heritage of Mankind". The future of Segovia is closely linked to the protection and promotion of the city's monumental complex, in which the Mint is given a unique distinction as the world's oldest, still standing, industrial manufacturing plant (1583).

Visiting all these attractions in Segovia is particularly easy due to the city's close proximity to Madrid and its international airport. The 54-mile drive is done in less than an hour via a twin-bore tunnel going under the Guadarrama Mountains, which totally and quite effectively separate this sleepy Castillan town from the over 3 million people in Spain's capital city. The mountains also provide a dramatic backdrop to Segovia's monumental skyline, particularly in winter and spring when covered with snow. The city's elevation of 3,280 ft. provides a refreshing atmosphere during the long summer evenings for enjoying the dozens of sidewalk cafes and terraces, especially on the streets and plazas where no cars are permitted.

Upon entering the city, we had to wait for the hotel’s van because our big bus couldn’t navigate the narrow streets leading up to our hotel. So we had to walk a few blocks while our pieces of luggage were transported by the hotel’s van. We then checked in into our hotel, Hotel Infanta Isabel, a very elegant hotel wherein our hotel balcony opens up onto the square (see photos below). I am quite impressed (and happy) with Bennie’s choice of hotels since they are close to everything and everywhere.

Soon thereafter, Marilyn, Grace and I set out for some retail therapy. Yes! I was finally able to buy a top made in Spain! Most of the shops I’ve sauntered into have clothes made in China. Grrr - how frustrating! Why would I buy clothes made in China when I was in Spain? It simply doesn’t make sense. Anyhow, happy with our purchases, we returned to the hotel for dinner, after which we went to the aqueduct for some photo ops. The photos below speak for themselves – Segovia is simply stunning!

Exhausted from the events of the day, we finally trotted back to our hotel for the night.

To Be Continued......

Pilgrimage Travelogue #9: Fatima, Portugal

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 06 Oct 2013 04:38:00 +0000

This day was a full-day affair at Fatima. After a leisurely breakfast, the bus took us to the place where we did the Hungarian Stations of the Cross. The Holy Way consists of 14 little chapels leading along 3 km of inclined stone walkways to a marble monument of Christ on the cross. The route of the Stations of the Cross follows the path of the visionaries from their home in Aljustrel to the Cova da Iria (place of apparitions). There are 15 stations in total, the 15th being dedicated to the Resurrection of Jesus. The first 14 stations were offered by Catholic Hungarian refugees in western countries and inaugurated in 1964 in the presence of the Ambassador of Hungary, the country now liberated from communism. At the 15th station, there is Calvary on the top of the Chapel of St. Stephen. The place was so peaceful and simply amazing!

Thereafter, we proceeded to the homes of the children in Aljustrel which have been left mostly unchanged, giving an idea of what the little village was like before the grand shrine was built.

It’s so peaceful that I could live here ~~~

We also met the cousin of Sister Lucia seen below:

Having some free time before our scheduled 3:30pm mass at the Chapel of Apparitions, I treated Marilyn and Grace for lunch at the restaurant in one of the hotels around town, and then went shopping for some souvenirs.

At the appointed time, we had a concelebrated mass with Fr. Jerry as the main celebrant. This time I joined the choir which, to me, made the soulful experience more worthwhile. After the mass, Marilyn, Grace and I went to the Basilica to visit the tombs of the 3 visionaries – Lucia, Jacinta and Francisco.

Tombs of Sr. Lucia and Jacinta

Tomb of Francisco

Inside the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima

Thereafter, I took photos of the open plaza ~~

Shot of the Basilica from the Adoration Chapel

We then lit candles for the intention of relatives and friends, and thereafter proceeded to the Adoration Chapel which, for me, was the highlight of my trip to Fatima.

It was in this place that I felt a different sense of peace, never wanting to leave…. It was like heaven on earth. It was an exceptional spiritual experience that may never be replicated. The photo below speaks for itself.

In fact, it was in this place that I was able to reflect on “LIFE”. I began to realize that in a world where we have routines for nearly everything—our route to work, our physical fitness regimen, and our weekday schedule—it’s amazing how many people forget to create a routine for meeting their spiritual needs. We run around in an attempt to be at our many appointments on time and meet our many obligations. But in our efforts to be as productive as possible, our spiritual needs tend to take a backseat. After all, taking care of our spiritual needs doesn’t directly pay the bills or tone our abdominal muscles. In fact, who has time to meditate or write in their journal when there are more pressing matters to see to, right? The truth is that nurturing ourselves spiritually is what gives us the energy and grounding that we need to make sure that our lives stay on track. How you choose to nurture yourself spiritually is a personal choice. But I believe that having a routine for nurturing your spirit that you do each day lets you feed energy to your soul and can serve you well if your life suddenly takes an unexpected turn for the worse. Think about it….

So much for my pontificating….

Anyhow after my “life assessment”, I took more photos of the massive square seen below:

Marilyn, Grace and I then returned to the hotel for dinner, after which Marilyn and I returned to the main square for the candlelight procession. By this time, the weather has considerably changed to being nippy, windy and drizzly. Therefore, the recitation of the Rosary was done inside the Apparition Chapel due to the weather, which marred the overall experience. Nevertheless, the procession of the statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary was a spiritual experience that made it one of the most once-in-a-lifetime experiences for me.

Soon thereafter, we returned to the hotel and called it a night.

To Be Continued......

Pilgrimage Travelogue #8: Santiago de Compostela, Spain / Fatima, Portugal

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 02 Oct 2013 21:41:00 +0000

After an early wake-up call and buffet breakfast, we checked out of our hotel and went back to St. James Cathedral for the high mass. I was so excited because we will be able to experience the swinging of the “Botafumeiro”. We arrived really early so we can get a good seat.

What’s the fuss about the “Botafumeiro”, you may ask. Well, a dome above the crossing contains the pulley mechanism to swing the Botafumeiro, which is a famous thurible found in the church created by the goldsmith José Losada in 1851. The Santiago de Compostela Botafumeiro is the largest censer in the world, weighing 80kg and measuring 1.60m in height. It is normally on exhibition in the library of the cathedral, but during certain important religious high days, it is attached to the pulley mechanism, filled with 40kg of charcoal and incense. In the Jubilee Years, whenever St. James' Day falls on a Sunday, the Botafumeiro is also attached in all the Pilgrims' Masses.

Eight red-robed tiraboleiros pull the ropes and bring it into a swinging motion almost to the roof of the transept, reaching speeds of 60 km/h and dispensing thick clouds of incense. I had goose bumps as the censer swung from one end to the other. Simply jaw-dropping! The pictures below would show the sequence of how it was done. One explanation of this custom, which originated more than 700 years ago—although incense has been used in Catholic ritual from the earliest times—is that it assisted in masking the stench emanating from hundreds of unwashed pilgrims. Hmmmm…..really???

The censer as it hangs from the church ceiling…..

Close-up view…….

The tiraboleiros getting ready…..

Incense being put into the censer…….

Incense is starting to emit smoke……

The tiraboleiros prepare to swing…..

Censer swinging to and fro……

Censer finally coming to a halt

Before the swinging of the censer, a procession was held where the “head” of St. James (as you know he was beheaded) was carried around the altar.

Then mass was said in Galician dialect, although Fr. Jerry was allowed to read the Gospel in English. I was awestruck during the entire time that the mass was celebrated. It simply was an amazing experience. I really felt so blessed to have been able to experience the swinging of the censer because it doesn’t happen everyday.

After mass, we left for Portugal. Again, another country. Another language.

At a pit stop on the way to Portugal, Grace and Sheila, birthday celebrants for June, bought ice cream for the entire group. It was a welcome treat considering that the temps had soared to a humid 25 degrees (C) by mid afternoon. By the time we arrived in Portugal, we had to set back our clocks one hour as Portugal is 1 hour behind Spain.

Portugal, as we all know, is often overshadowed by travel to its bigger neighbor of Spain. However, Portugal is such an unspoilt gem on the tourist map of Europe. It has a blustery yet rich history of nautical discovery that dates back to the 15th century when Portuguese expeditions were in search of an access to India. Portugal travel will inevitably lead tourists to the links of the past in the legacy left behind in ancient buildings and monuments in the country.

Contemporary Portugal will keep visitors busy with a number of World Heritage sites, natural wonders and cultural surprises, as well as incredible diversity and beauty with the added fringe of affable and friendly people. Common sights include attractive whitewashed houses topped with red-tiled roofs, golden, sandy beaches, traditional fishing villages, or an expansive stretch of rugged coastline. Indeed, Portugal presents infinite possibilities.

Our first stop was Coimbra, a city built on a hill with a glorious past, a poetic soul and a unique sound. Although it served as the nation's capital during the High Middle Ages, Coimbra is better known for its university, the University of Coimbra, which, established in 1290, is one of the oldest in Europe and the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese-speaking world.

Coimbra is one of the most important urban centres in Portugal, after the much larger Lisbon and Porto, playing a central role in the interior of the country. The local guide quoted a saying in Portugal:

In Braga, we pray
In Porto, we work
In Coimbra, we study
In Lisbon, we spend and enjoy

So it was not surprising when we stopped at the University of Coimbra for a quick tour. The temps at this time had soared to a toasty 30 degrees (C). Yet, I did not mind because the views were simply stunning!

From the university, we strolled down to the Carmelite Convent of St. Teresa where Sister Lucia, one of the three seers of Fatima, lived for many years and died on February 13, 2005. I’ll talk about Sister Lucia in detail later.

After my usual 3 wishes and photo ops at the convent, we strolled back to our bus.

Thereafter, we motored towards Fatima. Along the way, one can find pretty squares and winding alleyways adorned by tumbling displays of vegetables and flowers. But in spite of Coimbra's parochial charms, the educated and style-savvy populace ensures shops, bars and cafés are often brimming with modern design and quirky originality.

We arrived at Fatima late in the afternoon and immediately checked in into our hotel, Hotel Regina, which is a 5-minute walk to the Shrine of Our Lady of Fatima itself.

As you should know by now, every year, millions of pilgrims travel to two of the greatest Catholic sanctuaries in Europe: Lourdes in France and Fatima in Portugal. Both places were the sites of apparitions of the Virgin Mary to young children - 1858 in Lourdes and 1917 in Fatima. Over time, the attraction of these pilgrimage destinations has continued to grow and people from all over the world come to pray and participate in religious ceremonies in search of unique spiritual experiences and a deeper understanding of their Christian faith. And I am one of them.

I have narrated in detail about Our Lady of Lourdes, so allow me now to narrate in detail about Our Lady of Fatima.

By way of introduction, Fátima is a small town located north of Lisbon, capital of Portugal. Fátima is a major Catholic pilgrimage site because of reported sightings of the Virgin Mary in 1917 by three local shepherd children.

On the 13th of each month from May to October 1917, the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to three shepherd children - Lúcia dos Santos (age 10) and her cousins Jacinta (age 7) and Francisco Marto (age 9) - in the fields outside the village of Aljustrel near Fatima. The children later said that her coming had been preceded by an "angel of peace" who appeared in 1916. Lúcia described her vision of Mary as "more brilliant than the sun, shedding rays of light clearer and stronger than a crystal glass filled with the most sparkling water and pierced by the burning rays of the sun."

According to Lúcia's account, Mary exhorted the children to do penance to save sinners. They wore tight cords around their waists to cause pain, abstained from drinking water on hot days, and other works of penance. Most importantly, she asked them to say the Rosary every day. She reiterated many times that devotion to the Rosary was the key to personal and world peace. Many young Portuguese men, including relatives of the visionaries, were then fighting in World War I.

Lúcia later reported that during the second apparition on June 13, the Virgin Mary predicted the deaths of two of the children. When Lúcia asked the Virgin to take them to heaven soon, Mary replied, "Yes, I shall take Jacinta and Francisco soon, but you will remain a little longer, since Jesus wishes you to make me known and loved on earth. He wishes also for you to establish devotion in the world to my Immaculate Heart."

On July 13, the Virgin is said to have revealed the Three Secrets of Fatima to the children, which consist of prophecies about the future and have been the focus of much interest ever since. The secrets were not written down until 1941, when Lúcia was asked to compose memoirs about Fatima and her cousins so their canonization proceedings could begin.

The first secret described a horrific vision of Hell. The second secret foretold the end of World War I and the beginning of World War II and called for the "Consecration of Russia to the Immaculate Heart of Mary." Many believe Pope John Paul II fulfilled this request in 1984 by giving a blessing over the world, including Russia, shortly before the collapse of the Soviet Union. There is some confusion as to whether Sister Lúcia believed this fulfilled the request of Mary.

The Vatican kept the third secret under wraps until Easter 2000 – despite Lúcia's declaration that it could be released to the public after 1960. The officially released text of the third secret was unspecific in nature, leaving it open to various interpretations. The vague nature of the secret has led to speculation that the Vatican did not release its entire contents.

The secret speaks of a pope being killed by soldiers at the foot of a cross on top of a mountain, along with many other bishops and priests. The Church's interpretation is that this predicts the May 13, 1981 assassination attempt on Pope John Paul II by Turkish gunman Mehmet Ali Ağca in Saint Peter's Square. John Paul himself credited Our Lady of Fatima with saving his life, saying he saw her intervening to deflect the gunman's arm and he maintained consciousness on the ride to the hospital by keeping his mind focused on her.

On her last visit on October 13, a crowd of 70,000 people, including reporters from anti-religious newspapers, gathered in a torrential rainstorm to witness the scheduled arrival of the Virgin Mary, which led to the famous Sun Miracle of Fatima. Around noon, many of the observers testified they saw wondrous things in the heavens: the rain clouds parted, the "sky opened up" and the sun seemed to spin in the sky, change colors, or go completely dark for several minutes, before appearing to plunge towards the earth.

Some feared it was the Last Judgment. Many agreed that a major miracle had occurred. Only the children saw the Virgin appear, however. One of those who witnessed and reported the strange solar phenomena was Avelino de Almeida, a reporter who had ridiculed the so-called miracles at Fatima in previous articles. His photographer did not see it, but shot pictures of the mesmerized crowd looking into the sky. There is no independent verification of the solar phenomenon, and no movement or other phenomenon of the sun was registered by scientists at the time.

Francisco and Jacinta Marto both fell victim to the Great Spanish Flu Epidemic of 1919. Exhumed in 1935 and again in 1951, Jacinta's body was found incorrupt, while Francisco's had decomposed. Francisco and Jacinta were declared "venerable" by Pope John Paul II in a public ceremony at Fatima on May 13, 1989, and John Paul returned on May 13, 2000, to declare them "blessed." Jacinta is the youngest non-martyred child ever to be beatified.

Lúcia reported seeing the Virgin again in 1925 at the Dorothean convent at Pontevedra, Spain, and was asked to convey the message of the First Saturday Devotions. Lúcia was transferred to a convent in Tuy, Spain, in 1928. In 1929, Lúcia reported that Mary returned and repeated her request for the Consecration of Russia to her Immaculate Heart. Lúcia reportedly saw Mary in private visions off and on throughout her life. Most significant was the apparition in Rianxo, Spain in 1931, in which Jesus taught Sister Lúcia two prayers and delivered a message to give to the hierarchy of the Church.

In 1947, Sister Lúcia left the Dorothean order and joined the Carmelite order in a convent in Coimbra, Portugal. She died on February 13, 2005 at the age of 97. The date is significant for Fatima devotees, being on the 13th day of the month. After her death, Cardinal Joseph Ratzinger (then head of the Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith) ordered her cell sealed off, perhaps to examine it for Lúcia's canonization proceedings.

Anyhow, after dinner of good food and wine, Marilyn, Grace and I ambled our way towards the Shrine to check it out. Our first stop was the Chapel of Apparitions, an open-air chapel built on the site of the appearances. It is open year-round for regular services. The original chapel was built in 1919, then blown up on the night of March 6, 1922 by those who suspected the church of staging the miracles. Inside the modern chapel is a single white column over the site of a small Holm oak tree over which the Virgin Mary appeared on May 13, 1917. That oak fell victim to souvenir collectors long ago, but a large replacement tree grows near the entrance to the sanctuary by the rectory.

The primary building at the shrine is the Basilica of Our Lady of Fatima, a gleaming neoclassical church that begun on May 13, 1928, and consecrated on October 7, 1953. Its slender central spire rises 65 meters high.

The church is flanked by monumental colonnades and overlooks a large open plaza, the center of which is occupied by a Monument to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.

Thereafter, we slowly strolled back to our hotel, browsed through the shops along the way, and then called it a night.

To Be Continued.....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #7: Santiago de Compostela, Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 01 Oct 2013 21:52:00 +0000

After breakfast the following day, we had mass at the Sto. Cristo Cathedral in Santander. This cathedral is composed of two Gothic churches, one above the other. The 14th-century upper church was extensively rebuilt after the fire in 1941. In the lower church are displayed silver vessels containing the skulls of the early Christian martyrs, San Emeterio and San Celedonio, Santander’s patron saints. The care of these holy relics, brought (according to legend) from La Rioja to escape the Muslim invasion, prompted the construction of the monastery that originally stood here.

Thereafter, we motored towards Santiago de Compostela, considered to be the holiest city in Spain that is tucked away in Galicia, northwestern Spain. Santiago's name and fame both derive from Saint James, the Apostle (Sant Iago), whose holy relics are believed to be enshrined under the cathedral's altar. Legend has it that James preached in Spain before being martyred in Jerusalem and his body was brought back to Spain after his death. The tomb of St. James was discovered here in 819 AD and a small church was soon built over the shrine by the king.

After meeting our tour guide, we then set out to have a walking tour of Santiago under sunny skies soaring to almost 30 degrees (C).

Santiago is certainly one of Spain's most monumental towns, with a particular architectonical style all of its own. But it is as well a town plenty of life, with the University of Santiago de Compostela and a large number of students who guarantee youthful ambience in between the historical walls. In addition, the region's cuisine is of great reputation where it is said that nowhere can you eat better seafood than in Galicia. Most typical is fish, which exists here in extraordinary quality. So this is a place with a really varied offer, and one of the great cultural centers of the continent.

Over the last century, newer pilgrimage sites like Fatima and Lourdes have surpassed Santiago in popularity, but many devout Catholics still make the trek to pay their respects to St. James. In addition, Santiago's magnificent cathedral, medieval buildings, and charming streets draw thousands of tourists each year.

The present Santiago Cathedral, an impressive Romanesque structure with a Baroque facade, was begun in 1078 after the previous church was destroyed by Moorish invaders. A thriving town soon developed around the cathedral and Santiago became a major pilgrimage destination, surpassed only by Jerusalem and Rome. Devout pilgrims traveled long distances along the Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James), a series of pilgrimage roads starting from France, Portugal or several points in Spain, and now considered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, to pray at the tomb of St. James and gain religious merit.

Why this great interest in Santiago de Compostela, one might ask. Why walk the distance? Why dismiss worries about the difficulties one might encounter on the journey? Why do so many people aged 60+ make this journey? Why? There is no simple answer. There are many reasons and combination of reasons that one might be motivated to make this journey – religion, spirituality, culture, sport, adventure, to name a few. While paying homage to St. James may seem old fashioned, spiritual reasons do rate high. If you want to contemplate the meaning of life, 100 days give one plenty of thinking time! In Holland, walking to Santiago de Compostela is the thing to do. The walk contributes to improving one’s outlook on life, brings one in closer contact with the beauty of nature and expands one’s cultural horizons through contact with other pilgrims. Everyone experiences this journey differently and in a unique personal way. It takes an enormous amount of energy, but then you receive much more energy by doing it. Whatever the pilgrims may think of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela once they arrive, it is for certain that the journey itself will be their most profound and memorable experience.

Nevertheless, the old city of Santiago de Compostela and its grand cathedral are among the most beautiful medieval artifacts in all of Europe. Other than the visual beauty of the place, the atmosphere is charged with devotion and holiness. The institution of the Church may have resorted to some unscrupulous tactics in advertising the site, yet the many millions of pilgrims who visited the shrine came with love and sincerity in their hearts. The presence of that love is still strongly felt at Santiago.

Anyhow, upon entering the basilica, I was in total awe. Because as soon you enter, you can almost reach right into one of the columns and feel the hollowed-out impression of a handprint worn into the stone by thousands of other travelers before you. If stones could talk, I could just imagine the stories that this 11th-century medieval cathedral could tell. For nearly a thousand years, millions of pilgrims have been arriving, probably even just to see a truly remarkable work of Romanesque architecture, and it would certainly be worth it given the unparalleled and often surreal carvings. These pilgrims' personal journeys have literally left a mark on this ancient building.

Our tour guide immediately took us to the main altar wherein stands a bejeweled medieval statue of the saint which pilgrims greet with a hug upon arrival at the shrine. I cannot speak for the rest of the group, but after the hug, I felt like I was coming home. So surreal, indeed.

We then proceeded to the crypt, located just below the main altar, which shows the substructure of the 9th-century church. The crypt houses the relics of Saint James and two of his disciples - Saint Theodorus and Saint Athanasius.

Continuing with the tour of Santiago outside the cathedral, the guide directed us to Plaza de Obradoiro which is the heart of the city, and named after the workshop of the stonemasons that was established during the construction of the Cathedral. This is the arrival point of thousands of pilgrims every day and in the center of this square is located the kilometer “0” of the Way of St. James.

The surrounding buildings are examples of different architectural styles. At the East is the baroque front of the Cathedral with the Museum at its right and the Gelmírez Palace at its left. At the West and directly facing the cathedral is the Rajoy Palace. This building equals the span of Santiago's cathedral and has a multi-arched colonnade that runs the length of the palace's frontal facade. In the past, this building acted as home to the cathedral employees and priests as well as being the town hall and even the local prison. Today, it is the centre of the Galician parliament but still retains its town hall status. At the North is the Catholic Kings Hostal (yes, it is spelled “hostal”), a luxury hotel which was formerly a medieval pilgrim hostel. At the south is the San Jerónimo College, an old students’ residence and now the head office of the University of Santiago de Compostela.

I noticed that Santiago de Compostela is composed of an irregular network of streets which opens onto squares, creating unexpected perspective views. The work of the 16th century, which involved the conservation of the monuments and urban fabric, is evident to this day.

Panorama of plaza and facade at sunset

After the walking tour, we checked in into our hotel, Hotel Hesperia Gelmirez, had buffet dinner, and then went back to check out the city square at night. The cool breeze at night was so refreshing! After a good walk, we went back to the hotel and called it a night.

To Be Continued.....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #6: Limpias / Santander, Spain

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 29 Sep 2013 18:07:00 +0000

After breakfast, we bid farewell to Lourdes (France) and left for Spain. Another country. Another language.

Spain, as you all know, is located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula. On the west, Spain borders Portugal; on the south, it borders Gibraltar (a British overseas territory) and Morocco. On the northeast, along the Pyrenees mountain range, it borders France and the tiny principality of Andorra. With an area of 504,030 square kilometres, it is the second largest country in Western Europe and the European Union after France.

Spain is a constitutional monarchy, with a hereditary monarch and a bicameral parliament. Because of its location, the territory of Spain was subject to many external influences since prehistoric times and through to its dawn as a country. Spain emerged as a unified country in the 15th century, following the marriage of Catholic Monarchs and the completion of the reconquest (or Reconquista) of the Iberian Peninsula in 1492. Conversely, it has been an important source of influence to other regions when it became a global empire that has left a legacy of over 500 million Spanish speakers today, making it the world's second most spoken first language.

Spain is more than just bullfights, flamenco dancers and crowded beaches. It's a spectacular and diverse country, the north resembling the rolling, green hills of Ireland and the south giving you a taste of Moroccan landscapes and architecture. Its tremendous history is reflected in its prehistoric cave paintings, Moorish palaces, crumbling castles, Roman ruins, Gothic and Renaissance cathedrals as well as some very distinctive modern architecture. Its uniqueness lies in the separate kingdoms which made up the original Spanish nation. These regions remain diverse in their language, culture, cuisine and art. Knowing all these, I simply couldn’t wait to explore this beautiful country.

Anyhow, on the way from Lourdes, we passed by the province of Cantabria where we stopped at the Village of Limpias, famous for the Sanctuary of the Holy Christ of Agony. The name Limpias comes from the thermal waters known as the Waters of Limpias. The village is small, about 1,200 residents, and it is here where the Church of St. Peter was built.

As soon as you enter the 16th century Church of St. Peter, your attention will immediately be captured by the beautiful life-size figure of the crucified Christ located above the main altar. It is a prodigious image of Christ in agony. The crucifix is a meditation of the sufferings of Our Lord in the final moments of His agony. Measuring 6 ft tall, the corpus is clothed with a loin cloth that is held in place with a rope. The feet are one atop the other and are pierced with a single nail. The arms appear to be soft and relaxed as of a man that stretched them without effort. His index and angular fingers in both hands are extended as if giving the final blessing. His face has an indescribable expression, a particular beauty whereby He is looking towards heaven so that for the most part, only the whites of His eyes are visible. And depending on where you look from, the expression of Jesus is different, not only of pain, but also of prayer and contemplation to the Father. On both sides of Christ stand two images: the Blessed Virgin Mary, the Sorrowful Mother, and Saint John, the evangelist.

Stolen shot of the Church (ooops)

Since March 30, 1919, word has spread that in Limpias extraordinary events happen. It was said that the beautiful image of the Holy Christ of Agony moves its eyes, giving the sensation that his body is moving, that he would bleed and sweat. Limpias became famous and many pilgrims came to visit from all over the world. Our Lord manifested so many miracles before the eyes of believers and non-believers. In Limpias He demonstrated the agony of His death and the magnitude of His love for us, not only to evoke sentiments of compassion and repentance, but also to ask and supplicate that we love Him in return.

After our mass officiated by Fr. Jerry, we had a very yummy lunch at Piedra Restaurant, just across from the church. We had fish soup, fish & chips and ice cream. Indeed, ice cream was a welcome treat especially when you’re sweating at temps teetering at 30 degrees (C). After that yummy lunch, I decided I love Spain already (haha). Come to think of it, Filipino cuisine has a lot of Spanish influence in it considering that the Philippines had been colonized by Spain for more than 300 years. I shouldn’t wonder, should I?

After a short but wonderful time at Limpias, we proceeded to Santander to check in into our hotel, Hotel Santemar, which is a very elegant hotel.

By way of introduction, Santander, the capital city of Cantabria, is located on the northern coast of Spain, and is the only coastal city facing the south. “The ideal city", Santander is a modern cosmopolitan city with a spectacular setting in the pure beauty of nature. Made fashionable as a summer resort by the Spanish royalty, the city extends around the north shore of a large bay with many sandy stretches. These beaches conserve a great natural reservation and the Bay is considered one of the most beautiful in the world.

From the Bay next to the Palacete (small palace) of the Pier, the visitor can enjoy a spectacular city view and in Puertochico, where the Marina is situated, one will observe how the fishing tradition still remains a living part of Santander’s everyday life. In Paseo Pereda, the most emblematic street of Santander, the visitor finds buildings of great architectural beauty, among which is the architecture of Sacred Christ’s Church with the remains of the Sacred Martyrs, the Cathedral of Santander and the City Hall, situated in the City Centre.

Anyhow, after checking in into our hotel, we couldn’t wait to go to the beach.

After some snapshots here and there, Grace and I decided to go downtown for some retail therapy. Besides, Grace has to shop for more clothes to compensate for her lack of luggage, remember? And I was more than willing to accompany her to the stores. haha!

I thought speaking and understanding Spanish for me would be a breeze (having some Spanish blood running in my veins and having taken courses at the university). But boy, was I in for a BIG surprise. I could understand the written word perfectly, like the signs posted on buses and sign posts, but the spoken word sounded foreign to me. I didn’t realize their accent is totally different from the one that I am used to. It’s a good thing that Grace is adept at speaking the language having a lot of Mexican patients in her job as a nurse. But I was simply at a complete loss, barely speaking a simple word here and there.

Anyhow, armed with a map and lots of confidence, Grace and I set out to take the city by storm. We took the bus bound for downtown and browsed through all the shops that my tiny feet could take us. However, I was so disappointed that no clothes or shoes would fit me. They were all too big! I didn’t realize Spanish women are huge; I thought they are all skinny like me. haha!

With Grace having made her purchases and me leaving empty handed, we made our way back to the hotel for dinner. Thereafter, I went to the hotel’s business center to check my emails – which cost me an arm and a leg – and thereafter settled down for the night.

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #5: Lourdes, France

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sun, 29 Sep 2013 04:23:00 +0000

It was a full-day affair at Lourdes. So we slept in a little bit, had breakfast, and we all then went to the grotto for our mass. It was a concelebrated mass with Fr. Jerry as one of the concelebrants. As you can imagine, there were hundreds (if not thousands) of people, including those in wheelchairs and the infirmed, who attended the mass. Personally, the rainy weather marred my experience. Instead of concentrating fully in front of the grotto, I was shivering from the cold rain. Nevertheless, it was still an unforgettable experience.

After mass, we went to the Upper Basilica for a visit and some photo ops. The Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, known widely as the Upper Basilica, was the second of the churches to be completed, consecrated in 1876. It is an impressive, elaborate building in Gothic style and on one side seems to emerge directly from the rock of Massabielle (the sanctuary is directly above the Grotto). The walls are lined with ex voto plaques and banners from official National Pilgrimages of the past. It has a series of stained-glass windows depicting various events in the story of Lourdes while the clerestory windows depict Mary as the Second Eve. The exterior is dominated by a 70m spire, and two lesser spires. Above the entrance is a mosaic depicting Pope Pius IX, who defined the dogma of the Immaculate Conception in 1854.

The Rosary Basilica, on the other hand, is the third of the churches to be completed in 1899 and was consecrated in 1901 and has a capacity of 1,500 worshippers. Its style is influenced by Byzantine architecture. The nave is open and circular, surmounted by a dome. The exterior of the dome is surmounted by a dramatic gilded crown and cross, which were a gift from the people of Ireland in 1924.

After our photo ops, Marilyn, Grace and I drank water that comes from the spring.

Thereafter, we had lunch to celebrate Grace’s birthday. And being the celebrant, and generous at that, she paid for our lunch. After my happy lunch of yummy crepes, we went back to the grotto for the so-called “Baths”.

The Baths of the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes are marble bathing pools where pilgrims are immersed as they respond to the request of Our Lady to Bernadette: “Go drink of the spring and wash yourself there”. Going through the Baths is a human and spiritual experience carried out by pilgrims who wish to renew their baptismal commitment. The water for the Baths is provided by the spring of the grotto. There is free access to the Baths and there is no need to make a reservation. Pilgrims do not need to bring anything with them. All that is required is provided on the spot to preserve a person’s modesty and dignity.

Anyhow, we lined up along with hundreds (if not thousands) of pilgrims waiting for our turn to get in. Can you imagine lining up for about 2 hours just to be dunked in freezing cold water? So finally, they let us in to sit and wait. We were told to pray and think of our intentions. Then it was my turn. The helpers in the baths assisted and guided me and at no time was I naked. I went into the undressing area where they put a blue cape on me and made me wait for my turn to go into the bath itself, where there were three other people waiting to assist me. The blue cape was taken off at the same time the white cloth I wore into the bath itself was put on me. I was made to sit and soak for seconds in water while they prayed with me and then made me stand up and helped me dress immediately without allowing me to even dry my body. I do have to warn you that the water is extremely cold and can be a shock to your system. But guess what, I was not freezing when I got out of the bath itself and the bizarre thing was that I was bone dry. It was a very moving experience and a bit overwhelming.

After having been “cleansed” physically, Marilyn and I decided to cleanse our “souls”. Grace mysteriously disappeared after having been immersed in the freezing water (haha). So, we went to have our confession at The Chapel of Reconciliation. The Chapel is somewhat unusual in that no masses or other services take place there; instead it is given over entirely to the Sacrament of Reconciliation. Priests from different countries observe a duty roster, which means that at almost any time of day, pilgrims can find a priest who will hear their confession in their own language. Anyhow, the priest that I went to was from Ireland and it was done in such a way that I just seemed to have a conversation with him instead of the usual “recitation” of my sins. And so far, it was the best confession I ever had in my entire life. As you know, every once in a while an episode in your life changes the way you think, feel, or look at things, and that experience was certainly one of those times.

Thereafter, we decided to have a closer look at the Spring which is at the same spot where it was discovered by Bernadette. The original spring can be seen within the Grotto, lit from below and protected by a glass screen. The water was thoroughly analyzed by independent chemists in 1858 and 1859. It does not appear to have a latent power to cure and has no special scientific or medical properties. Despite this, the water is itself a strong symbol of devotion for Lourdes’ pilgrims.

Close-up view

After more photo ops around the Sanctuary, we did a little bit of shopping for religious items, and then went back to the hotel for dinner, after which we went back to attend the Torchlight Procession. Processions are held in the Domain, with the Torchlight Procession being perhaps the best known and most visually impressive. It takes place daily at 8.45pm and begins outside the Grotto, passed the Gave, alongside the ramps, and ends up in the Rosary Square. The procession is led by pilgrims bearing a replica of the Statue of the Virgin Mary. The groups usually proceed together under their group banner. Most participants carry a candle with a paper shade which diffuses the light and makes the candle less likely to blow out. The focus of this procession is the rosary. All five decades are recited, usually in a variety of languages. The Lourdes Hymn is also sung, with verses in different languages. Intercessions may be invoked followed by the Laudate Mariam. The final blessing is in Latin.

Personally, I had goose bumps when we attended the procession, due to both awe and wonder. It was thrilling to be on soil sanctified by the Blessed Virgin Mary’s presence. The crush of humanity was intoxicating, as was the impressive torch and candlelight procession. Any other crowd gathered for any other purpose wouldn’t be as reverential as the one gathered that evening. It was simply inspiring!

Thereafter, we went to get more Lourdes water to take with us on the trip. And we then called it a night.

Note: As an addendum, many people remain skeptical about Lourdes and its supposed healing power, arguing that any improvement offered by the shrine is no more than the placebo effect, and that the ceremonies and processions are no better than faith-healing on a grand scale. Whatever your religious orientation may be - is your choice. Let it be clear that I am not imposing my beliefs on anyone. I am just narrating my stories and my beliefs which you can take with a grain of salt.

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #4: Provence / Marseille, France

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 26 Sep 2013 18:27:00 +0000

After packing my uneaten breakfast, the group set out for the region of Provence to experience an ancient pilgrimage to the sites made famous by Mary Magdalene.

Anyhow, it was a long drive from Paray-le-Monial to St. Baume so we had lunch along the way. I could hardly contain my excitement, especially after I have learned that the tomb of Mary Magdalene at St. Maximin is the third most important tomb in the world. It comes immediately after the tomb of Jesus at Jerusalem and that of St. Peter at Rome. So you can just imagine how excited I was. However, my excitement turned to disappointment when I learned we could no longer go up to the grotto at St. Baume because the road leading up to it is no longer safe.

Do not get confused. The Grotto of St. Baume is the cave where Mary Magdalene is said to have stayed for the last 30 years of her life. The word "beaume" means caves or grottos. To get to the grotto requires a 20-minute car ride up winding roads in the St. Baume Mountains, and then a 45-minute walk up a footpath. On the other hand, the tomb of Mary Magdalene is at St. Maximin, a charming and ancient town, where the 14th century Basilica of Mary Magdalene was built to hold her relics and contains her crypt.

Anyhow, we met our tour guide who gave us a very detailed historical account of the life of Mary Magdalene and then took us to the Basilica and descended into the small crypt.

To your left and to your right you’ll see four marble sarcophagi, dating from the 4th century. They are believed to contain the remains of Mary Magdalene and four other saints, including St. Maximin. In the rear of the crypt you discern a golden statue with a darkish mask. Coming closer you discover that the mask is in effect a skull, its eye sockets staring at you in defiance or reprimand. We learned that this is the cranium of Mary Magdalene! How did these relics get here, you wonder…..

Suspend your disbelief for just a moment, and follow the legend of Mary Magdalene in Provence. We’ll start with her departure from the shores of Palestine and end in the crypt of the Basilica in Saint Maximin.

First, a brief history of Mary Magdalene’s pre-Provencal life. The Gospels have little information on her. We read that she followed Jesus, had seven demons exorcised from her, was present at the Crucifixion, and was the first person to see Jesus after his Resurrection. Christian tradition weaves a further tale: she was a woman of loose morals, to say the least, who repented after she encountered Jesus, then led a life of faithfulness and purity.

In the same tradition, Magdalene’s legend expands: persecuted by the Jews of Jerusalem, she and a group of other disciples are cast off in a boat without sails or oars. In this group we also find Mary, mother of James, another Mary, mother of James Major and John, Maximinus, Lazarus and Sarah, an Egyptian servant. Miraculously they survive the perilous voyage and safely land on the shores of southern Provence.

Soon afterwards, the group splits up. Mary Magdalene travels north to the region of Ste. Baume. The two other Marys stay behind in the place where they landed, together with Sarah, the servant girl. Their residence is now the town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, a place of pilgrimage to honor the arrival of the three Marys, and the burial of two. Every year, gypsies, who have adopted Sarah as their patron saint, participate in the processions in full color and glory. But that’s a subject for another story!

Mary Magdalene, in the meantime, travels throughout Provence, preaching the gospel. Then she retires to a cave near Ste. Baume for a life of retreat and contemplation. After 33 years she dies, having received the last rites from Maximinus, who buries her in the grotto. Her resting place becomes a centre of pilgrimage. Then in the 11th century her remains disappear. First it was thought that they had been stolen and taken to Vézelay (relics were important business in the Middle Ages; they attracted thousands of pilgrims and added to the wealth of the Church). However, in 1279 the Count of Provence, Charles d’Anjou, discovers her remains in a sarcophagus beneath the simple church at St. Maximin, after the saint herself appeared in a dream. Whether this was a convenient way of taking the business away from Vézelay or a genuine discovery, no one knows. But don’t be cynical and follow what happened after this miraculous recovery.

With the blessing of the Pope, Charles d’Anjou begins to build the enormous Basilica on the site of the crypt. Onto it is a monastery to house the Dominican friars who are in charge of the relics of Mary Magdalene (until 1957). The work starts in 1295 and continues until 1532. As with many churches at that time, it was never finished; it lacks a bell tower, for instance. But its imposing size, its history and its interior make it a special place in Provence.

While this provincial passage by Mary Magdalene is treated as a legend by some historians, there is no doubt of its veracity if you speak to the locals. Today, visitors and pilgrims continue to flock to the Basilica to see the relics of Mary Magdalene.

After the tour of the basilica, we had mass officiated by Fr. Jerry, after which we proceeded to our hotel, Novotel Marseille Est, for the night. At this time, there was still no sign of Grace’s luggage, and she was taking it like a pro. Had it happened to me, I would have buckled down and sulked. haha

The following day, we motored towards Marseille.

With its terracotta-roofed buildings the color of cracked wheat, ripened apricot and blanched almond scattered around the mistral-whipped sea, Marseille is infused with a perceptible and irrepressible energy. This gritty, grimy and gloriously real city – France’s oldest and largest after Paris – isn’t gentrified like its Provencal counterparts. But its rough-and-tumble edginess, wailing sirens and litter-swirled streets, and its coastal rocky inlets, coves and sun-baked beaches, are chock-a-block with treasures.

Pulsing to a sultry southern European tempo, Marseille also beats to the drum of neighboring North Africa. Its fusion of cultures is best experienced at its thronging street markets of Provencal produce stalls, Algerian souk-like bazaars, and fresh-off-the-boat catches splayed along the Vieux Port’s docks at its centuries-old fish market, selling the base ingredients for the local specialty fish stew, bouillabaisse. Its name literally translates to its cooking method - when it boils (bouillir), lower the heat to a simmer (baisser) – which is maybe a good recipe for handling the heady, heated melting pot that is Marseille.

A city of many attractions - the sea, the sun, nature and culture - Marseille is proud of its strong tradition of accessibility and its people’s warm hospitality. Just consider the following:

· A unique seafront with 57 km of coastline overlooking the Mediterranean Sea

· A tourist spot in the heart of the Mediterranean

· A cosmopolitan and vibrant city that attracts throngs of tourists from all over the world every year

· Officially listed as a city of art and history, Marseille is creating an economic and cultural vitality that is booming today

· It has positioned itself as the French and Mediterranean city of reference for conventions and seminars

· It is also the flagship city for cruises in France and an indisputable stop for the world’s largest cruise lines

· Easy to access: international airport, low-cost air terminal, high-speed train, motorways, etc.

· Easy to live: metro, tramway, bus, etc.

· Easy to love: mild temperatures, maximum sunshine, beautiful landscapes, warm and inviting culture

· So much to explore: palaces, Greek and Roman ruins, churches and cathedrals, castles and botanical gardens, etc.

· The European Capital of Culture 2013 (The title of European Capital of Culture was created in 1985 by the European Union with a view to bringing Europeans closer together and asserting the central role cities play in the arts and culture)

· It is the second most filmed city in France with nearly 1,200 film shoots over the last ten years

· It has the second largest film studios in France

· It is France’s second most important centre for diplomacy with 70 consulates, numerous international institutions, thirteen twin cities, around twenty cooperative agreements, etc.

· A culinary stopover with restaurants starred and listed by the Michelin guide

· A cultural centre of grand scale with 17 museums, 42 theatres and 12 cinemas plus international events

· No. 2 research centre in France

Knowing all of the above, wouldn’t you be excited to explore Marseille, just as I was? I became more excited when Bennie told us that she had a surprise for us (it was not indicated in our itinerary) - a visit to Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde (Basilica of Our Lady of the Guard). Sweeeeet!

Locals commonly refer to the basilica as La Bonne Mere (the Good Mother). This ornate Neo-Byzantine church sits atop the signal hill of La Garde, a 162m (532 ft) limestone outcrop on the south side of the Vieux Port that is the highest natural point in Marseille. The basilica was built on the site of a 13th-century chapel also dedicated to Our Lady of the Guard, filled with the ex-votos of safely returned sailors. The basilica is surmounted by a 60-metre (197 ft) belfry topped with a huge statue of the Virgin and Child, visible across much of the city and from miles out at sea. The basilica took 5 years to build and required 170,000 tons of material, including 23 shiploads of marble and porphyry from Italy.

And although the exterior of the church is stunning in its stature and attention to detail, there is perhaps nothing more impressive than the ornate upper chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mother. From the elaborate mosaics and colored inlaid marble to the impressive statues and amazing works of art, the basilica was indeed meant to be a place worth for a dedication to the mother of Jesus. It was certainly considered to be one of the finest examples of this kind of architecture at the time it was constructed and is still treasured around the world. There are side chapels, vaults, domes, a crypt, and virtually limitless things to explore around every corner at the basilica. For true lovers of history and culture, especially those with an affinity for classical churches, this is an absolute must-see if you are planning a trip to Marseille.

Visitors come here not only for the church but also for the view - best seen at sunset - from its terrace. The panoramic vista includes the city, the islands, and the sea.

Anyhow, after a hearty breakfast, we set out to get to the highest point of the city. Along the way, Giovanni, our gorgeous Italian driver, had to navigate narrow, steep and winding roads on hairpin turns to reach the summit where the basilica stands. It was very windy that day, about 50-150 km/hr wind speed, which apparently happens 100 days a year. And that day was one of those days. Yikes! I really had to hold on to the railings so my small frame won’t get blown away by the fierce winds.

In fact, I noticed that there were ropes available to hold on to when you cross the top of the building to go inside the basilica. You can hear the winds howling outside the basilica while we were having mass, so you can just imagine how VERY windy it was that day.

Anyhow, as soon as I entered the basilica, I immediately noticed the contrast between the light outside and the shadows inside. It is unique and the visual power draws you in and takes you by surprise. I couldn’t help but look up at the mosaics during mass. My description would just fall short of how majestic they really are. You have to see it for yourself.

After mass, we were scheduled to have a tour of the basilica but the tour guide refused to start unless everybody was in attendance. But some people in the group took it upon themselves to return to the bus immediately after mass, so we ended up with no tour. I wanted to kick the tour guide right up her shin because she was not in any way accommodating. And again, I had to remind myself that I was a pilgrim, not a tourist, so I kept my cool and just took photos of the awesome place. How I wish I could return to this place someday.

Thereafter, we were on the road again on our way to Lourdes, the pilgrimage site that I have been looking forward to visit in my lifetime. So allow me to delve lengthily into this portion of the trip.

By way of introduction, Lourdes is a bustling Pyrenees village, best known for famous Virgin Mary sightings, that is central to several other great cities and attractions. The city is also in a prime location in that the Pyrenees are steps away to the south, and Spain is just a few kilometers away. It is the perfect destination for the adventure traveler, with numerous outdoor activities close by.

Lourdes is second only to Paris in the number of hotel rooms available in a single city in France. It is also the second most popular tourism city in all of France, attracting five million pilgrims annually from throughout the globe to the cave where a peasant girl had several Virgin Mary sightings.

Although Lourdes' spiritual atmosphere is tainted by numerous shops selling tacky religious trinkets (think framed, velvet Jesus art and hot pink plastic rosaries), even an atheist could appreciate the splendor of the enormous Basilica of the Rosary. It was built in response to the hordes of people that began to descend on the city after the Virgin Mary sightings, and is an amazing example of architecture.

Anyhow, it was a long 7-hour drive to Lourdes from Marseille, and the weather didn’t help one bit as it had been raining the whole time. Therefore, it was almost dinnertime when we arrived in Lourdes. It’s a good thing that our hotel, Hotel Notre Dame de France, was a mere 10-minute walk from the grotto. So without wasting any time, Marilyn and I immediately went to the grotto after dinner as I couldn’t contain my excitement. Grace had to do some shopping as her luggage never made an appearance and consequently was sent back to her home in California. Ayayay…

As a backgrounder, beginning on February 11, 1858, a 14-year old peasant girl called Bernadette Soubirous claimed to have experienced a series of apparitions of a girl dressed in white and with a blue belt around her waist, who eventually introduced herself as the Immaculate Conception, a name by which the Virgin Mary was known.

On land bordered by a loop of the Gave de Pau river is an outcrop of rock called Massabielle. On the northern aspect of this rock near the riverbank is a naturally occurring, irregularly shaped shallow cave or grotto, in which the apparitions took place. At the time of the apparitions, the grotto lay well out of town, on common ground which was used by the villagers for pasturing animals, collecting firewood and as a garbage dump, and it possessed a reputation for being an unpleasant place.

And on February 25th, which was considered to be the 9th apparition, Bernadette claimed to have been directed to a spring that had not existed in the grotto. No fountain was to be seen, but when Bernadette dug at a spot designated by the apparition, a spring began to flow. Its discovery by Bernadette, witnessed by hundreds of onlookers, was eventually declared miraculous. Later studies have shown that the water is pure and contains chlorides of soda, lime and magnesia, bicarbonates of lime and magnesia, silicates of lime and aluminum, oxide of iron, sulphate of soda, phosphate, and organic matter and, therefore, contains no therapeutic ingredients. However, the water was claimed to be capable of healing the sick and lame. Of the many thousands of pilgrims who visit Lourdes every year, some claim to have been miraculously healed. It is estimated that the spring has produced 27,000 gallons of water each week since it first emerged during Bernadette's visions.

Nevertheless, the figure always appeared in one place, a niche above the main cavity of the grotto, in which a wild rose bush was growing. Among the instructions from 'the Virgin' were "Go and drink from the spring", "Go and tell the priests to build a chapel here", and "Have the people come here in procession". These three instructions in particular were to prove pivotal in the development of the Domain and its ceremonies. Public interest in the apparitions grew, and curious visitors began to be replaced by pilgrims from increasingly far away, drawn by compelling stories of apparitions and miracles.

Thereafter, a local priest, together with his bishop, bought the grotto and the land around it from the commune in 1861, three years after the apparitions. Immediately they set about modifying the area to make it more accessible to visitors, and started work to build the first of the churches.

In 1864, a Lyonnais sculptor Joseph-Hugues Fabisch was commissioned to create a statue of Our Lady of Lourdes based on Bernadette's descriptions. The statue rests in the niche where the Virgin appeared to Bernadette. The original wild rose bush was destroyed shortly after the apparitions by pilgrims seeking relics, but a newer one has been planted nearby.

However, due to French political upheaval resulting in an enforced separation of Church and State, the property and grounds of the Domain were confiscated from the Church and returned to the ownership of the town in 1910. The then bishop contested this confiscation, and was permitted to rent the Domain from the town until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. Later, a visit to Lourdes by Marshal Pétain in 1941 provided official recognition of the Domain. Church officials successfully petitioned Pétain to allow the Church to reclaim ownership of the Domain.

Currently, the Bishop of Tarbes and Lourdes is responsible for the spiritual governance of the Domain. He appoints a local representative, who is called the Rector. There are 30 full-time chaplains working in the Domain, from dioceses and religious communities worldwide. There are 292 full-time lay employees and a further 120 seasonal employees working in 63 different divisions, with an annual running budget of €18 million, 90% of which comes from donation.

The Domain is open all year round. An estimated 200 million people have visited the shrine since 1860, and the Roman Catholic Church has officially recognized 67 miracle healings. About 800 tons of wax is burnt annually in devotional candles.

Anyhow, when we arrived at the place, I was just in awe of the size and enormity of the Rosary Square, the open space in front of the Rosary Basilica. The Statue of the Crowned Virgin, often known as the "Crowned Statue", stands across Rosary Square from the Rosary Basilica and faces the entrance. This prominent statue is a familiar landmark and a traditional meeting point. The statue is 2.5m high and cast in bronze, painted white and blue in the traditional colors. Behind the Crowned Statue is the Esplanade, a large open walkway which is used in the processions.

We then proceeded to the grotto to pray. This is my first view of the grotto which was late at night. Most of the pilgrims were gone and only a handful of people prayed at Massabielle in the shade of the massive gray cliffs, above which rested the gothic majesty of the double basilica. In contrast to the grandness of the Rosary Square, the grotto where St. Bernadette's visions took place is very simple and stark. The recess of the grotto itself is undecorated, although a plain stone altar and lectern have been placed there so that Masses can be said. Above the main recess is the niche where the apparitions took place and the statue now stands. A large stand of candles next to the altar is kept burning.

As I knelt to pray, there was a brand of awe that can only be experienced when visiting a spot where an extraordinary event occurred. The reality of Bernadette’s story hit me hard, a story of wonder and suffering culminating in thousands of healings in the waters of the spring she had dug beneath the Virgin’s feet.

The spring Bernadette is said to have dug can be seen at the rear of the grotto, shielded by a glass cover. Pilgrims can process through the grotto and it is traditional to touch the rocks directly under the statue and, indeed, so many people have done this that the stones have become polished. Also at the rear of the grotto is a metal box into which written prayers or petitions may be deposited and they are collected daily and burnt. Rows of benches allow visitors to sit and pray or contemplate. Pilgrims are asked to remain silent while in the vicinity to create an atmosphere of devotion. One of the spots where Bernadette prayed to the Virgin is marked by a special paving slab.

After praying at the grotto, Marilyn and I took holy water from the faucets and put them in containers for our perusal and then went back to the hotel for the night.

To Be Continued.....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #3: Nevers / Beaune / Ars / Paray-le-Monial, France

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 21 Sep 2013 00:33:00 +0000

After an early wake-up call and breakfast, we checked out of our Parisian hotel and left for Nevers to visit the incorrupt body of St. Bernadette Soubirous which is kept at Saint-Gildard Convent.

Born in Lourdes in 1844, Bernadette Soubirous was 14 when the Virgin Mary appeared to her at Massabielle Rock. In 1866, in order to fulfill her desire for a religious life, Bernadette arrived in Saint-Gildard, Mother House of the Sisters of Charity of Nevers, where she had learned to read and write.

Bernadette stayed there for 13 years. Her simple and ordinary life was completely given to God and others. On her death in 1879, her body was entombed in a chapel in the garden. It was found intact and has rested in a shrine in the chapel since 1925.

Since the Blessed Virgin Mary graced the grotto of Lourdes with Her presence in 1858, it has been one of the world’s most popular Marian shrines. Many people have knelt at the famous rock and prayed to Saint Bernadette, who saw the Immaculate Virgin on 18 occasions. And yet many people do not know that the body of Saint Bernadette lies incorrupt in the chapel of the Convent of Saint-Gildard at Nevers, and that this convent is open to the public. Many pilgrims visit the convent, others come out of curiosity, perhaps disbelieving that Bernadette's body is indeed perfectly preserved. The air of reverence and silence follows closely on the realization that this is fact rather than fantasy.

When Bernadette died on April 16, 1879, her body was buried in the small chapel dedicated to St. Joseph, within the convent grounds. In September of 1909, Bernadette’s body was exhumed as part of the process leading to her eventual canonization. The hollowed-out tomb was extremely humid - her habit was very damp, the rosary held in her hands was rusted and her crucifix had turned green. Yet despite this, the body itself was perfectly preserved. Two further exhumations (in April 1919 and April 1925) were carried out. At the third, the skin was found to have discoloured slightly in places, due probably to exposure to the air following the 46 years of burial. Because of this, the firm of Pierre Imans in Paris made light wax coverings for the face and hands. By June of 1925, the Cateland workshop in Lyon had finished the gilt and crystal reliquary which was to be the final resting place of the saint; the light wax masks were placed on the face and hands and the body was placed in the shrine. The same month, Pope Pius XI beatified Bernadette - she could now be called "Blessed" and her remains could be publicly venerated. In August, the shrine was ceremonially placed in the main chapel of the convent, and the long line of pilgrims began to visit the convent. In 1933, Bernadette was declared a Saint - appropriately, this took place on December 8th, feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Anyhow, we did a tour of the convent. The warm, dry weather of 28 degrees (C) made long walks in the grounds very pleasant. It’s very easy to imagine Bernadette herself walking there, especially as there have been few changes since that time. Behind the convent, at the end of an avenue of chestnut trees, is the tiny chapel dedicated to St. Joseph.

This was one of Bernadette’s favorite places for quiet prayer, as she had a fond love for the Spouse of Mary. It was later to become her resting place during the 46 years of her burial. It is very plain and simple, with a stained-glass window of Our Lady above the small altar. Inset into the wall is the tombstone from Bernadette’s original grave.

We had a leisurely visit at the convent. After the tour, we stayed put on the grounds of the convent to wait for the 2pm mass. We passed the time by having some photo ops and eating our “packed” lunch.

After mass and after fulfilling my traditional 3 wishes, we all then scrambled back onto our bus and proceeded to the beautiful city of Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy. It is a walled city, where about half of the battlements, ramparts and the moat, remain in good condition. Historically, Beaune is intimately connected with the Dukes of Burgundy.

Thereafter, we checked in into our hotel, Ibis Beaune La Ferme Aux Vins, for the night.

After breakfast the following day, we visited “Hotel-Dieu”, one of the most impressive architectural pieces in the region. Built in 1443 by Nicolas Rollin, chancellor to King Philippe le Bon (Philip the Good), its unique style was inspired by Flemish architecture. A former medieval hospital, its purpose was to serve and take care of the pauper who had fought for the French armies.

As a backgrounder, The Hotel-Dieu was founded when Burgundy was ruled by Philip the Good. The Hundred Years War had recently been brought to a close. However, massacres continued with marauding bands still roaming the countryside, provoking misery and famine. The majority of the people of Beaune were declared destitute. Nicolas Rollin, the Duke’s Chancellor, and his wife reacted by deciding to create a hospital and refuge for the poor.

Over the centuries, the hospital radiated outwards, grouping with similar establishments in the surrounding villages. Many donations were made to it by grateful families and generous benefactors. The institution is one of the best and oldest examples of historical, philanthropic, and wine-producing heritage, and has become linked with the economic and cultural life of Burgundy. It is now a museum.

Below is the “Room of the Poors”. On the ceiling is a visible painted frame in an upside down boat-skiff shape and in each beam are sculpted caricatures of some important Beaune inhabitants. The room is furnished with two rows of curtained beds. The central area was dedicated to benches and tables for the meals. Each bed could welcome two patients.

Close-up view:

If there was a room for the poor people, there was also a room for the rich people. Noticed the difference?

After a tour of the museum, we had some time to take some photos of the beautiful city:

Thereafter, we proceeded to, and had Benediction at, the Convent where the Infant Jesus appeared to Venerable Margaret of the Most Blessed Sacrament and gave her the Chaplet prayer to remember the 12 years of His childhood.

As a backgrounder, Margaret at age 5 received her first vision of the Child Jesus. At age 11, she made her First Communion, and then later the same day joined the Carmelites. The girl was soon afflicted with convulsions, rigidity in the limbs, and a constant feeling of fear and oppression. Doctors performed a useless operation that left her with lifelong head pain. Margaret and the mother superior of the house decided the girl was under demonic attack, and she was cured by prayer. Soon after, Margaret began to have visions and to fall into ecstasies during prayer. She began to relive the mysteries of the life of Our Lord as each came up in the liturgical calendar. Following a request by Christ in a vision, she helped build a chapel in the nearby monastery of Saint Etienne. She died at age 29, having lived her life in devotion to the Child Jesus and Holy Family.

Thereafter, we proceeded to Ars, a small city northwest of Lyon, to visit the shrine of St. John Vianney.

As a backgrounder, St. Jean-Marie (John) Vianney was the parish priest (curé) of Ars. During his lifetime, St. John Vianney founded an orphanage for girls and became internationally famous for his spiritual direction. He was known for his powerful sermons, personal example of holiness and his ability to perform miracles. He was said to be able to read souls in the confessional and predict future events.

Throughout France there was a saying, "There is a holy man in Ars; go and see him." And people did - between 1830 and 1845, an average of 300 people visited Ars every day to meet with St. John Vianney. He slept only two hours a night so he could serve all the pilgrims, and spent up to 17 hours a day hearing confessions. The Curé of Ars also ate little, dressed in old clothes and slept on a hard bed. He was said to have been attacked by the Devil regularly, including one famous incident in which the Devil set the saint's bed on fire.

The Sanctuary of St. John Vianney contains several sites of interest to pilgrims and tourists alike. It has two churches: the old 12th-century church where St. John Vianney preached, and a new basilica that displays his preserved body in a glass case. The saint's heart is enshrined in a smaller separate building, the Shrine of the Cure's Heart.

Pilgrims can also visit the home of the Curé of Ars, which was preserved the way he left it. It contains the very bed set on fire by the devil as well as the saint's rosary, breviary, library and other personal items. Other sights include the Underground Church designed for large groups of pilgrims, a film on the life and work of the saint, a wax museum, and the orphanage founded by the Curé, called La Providence. St. John Vianney, the patron saint of parish priests, died on August 4, 1859. In 1874, Pope Pius IX declared him Venerable, and he was canonized a Saint by Pope Pius XI in 1925.

Anyhow, after fulfilling my 3 wishes and photo ops, we proceeded to Paray-le-Monial, mainly known for its Romanesque church, the Basilica du Sacré-Coeur, and is home to the devotion of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. The basilica is a fine, well-proportioned building, with the different parts of the building 'stacked' against the octagonal central tower, and having windows at various levels allowing light to illuminate the interior. The basilica sits on the river’s edge and is a beautiful building in a lovely setting.

When one goes on a pilgrimage, a certain web of grace connects people and places in surprising and unexpected, if not mysterious, ways. For me, one of the great surprises of our pilgrimage was in Paray-le-Monial. I knew that the moment I stepped off the bus, my experience in Paray-le-Monial will be different from the rest. And I was right. So allow me to delve deeply into this portion of my pilgrimage experience.

The most venerated spot in Paray-le-Monial is the Chapel of the Visitation, where most of the apparitions to Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque, a French Roman Catholic nun and mystic, who promoted devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus, took place.

As a backgrounder, Margaret, from early childhood, was described as showing intense love for the Blessed Sacrament (the Eucharist), and who had preferred silence and prayer to childhood play. After her First Communion at the age of 9, she practiced in secret severe corporal mortification, including carving the name "Jesus" into her chest as an adolescent until rheumatic fever confined her to bed for 4 years. At the end of this period, having made a vow to the Blessed Virgin to consecrate herself to religious life, she was instantly restored to perfect health.

She had visions of Jesus Christ, which she thought were a normal part of human experience and continued to practice austerity. However, in response to a vision of Christ, crucified but alive, that reproached her for forgetfulness of him, claiming his Heart was filled with love for her due to her promise, she entered the convent at age 24 intending to become a nun. It was then that she changed her baptismal name of Marguerite (Margaret) to her religious name of Marguerite-Marie (Margaret Mary).

In this convent, she received several revelations of the Sacred Heart. The visions revealed to her the form of the devotion, the chief features being reception of Holy Communion on the First Friday Devotions of each month, the Eucharistic adoration during the Holy Hour on Thursdays, and the celebration of the Feast of the Sacred Heart. She stated that in her vision, she was instructed to spend an hour every Thursday night to meditate on the sufferings of Jesus in the Garden of Gethsemane. The Holy Hour practice later became widespread among Catholics.

Anyhow, we waited outside the church for an ongoing mass to be finished, after which we entered the Chapel of the Visitation where Fr. Jerry celebrated Mass. As I knelt at the beginning of the Eucharistic prayer, my eyes were riveted to the area above the Altar of Sacrifice where there is a powerful mural depicting that moment when the Heart of Jesus united itself forever with St. Margaret Mary’s heart and that of St. Claude Colombiere, the community's confessor at that time, His two faithful servants.

My eyes then traveled to the right side of the main Altar where there is a grille. It was there, behind that very grille, that Margaret Mary heard Mass and received Holy Communion. It was there where she went into ecstasy, where Our Lord Jesus, present in the Blessed Sacrament exposed on the Altar, gave her the message of Love she was to spread to the whole world. It was there that He showed her His wounded Heart and asked her to establish a Feast in honor of His Sacred Heart.

Personally, it was at that moment that I felt some stirrings in my soul where I felt I was “closest” to God, an experience that I don’t think will ever be recaptured again in my lifetime. Could it be because I was not distracted by taking pictures here and there that I was able to just focus on our Lord? My answer is a simple “I really don’t know”. As far as I was concerned, my spirituality was never the same after that.

After the mass and my traditional 3 wishes (no photos allowed), we then left for our hotel, Hostellerie Des Trois Pigeons, a very nice and old but elegant hotel. Grace (whose luggage was still missing-in-action) and I chatted until the wee hours of the morning since I couldn’t sleep. I felt “high”, probably from my unforgettable spiritual experience. It goes without saying that we slept in the following morning and missed breakfast. Had it not been for my dear sister who woke us up, we could have been left behind. Could it be that the Lord wanted me to stay in Paray-le-Monial?

Well, your guess is as good as mine.

To Be Continued....

Pilgrimage Travelogue #2: Lisieux / Paris, France

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Fri, 20 Sep 2013 03:58:00 +0000

After a very early wake-up call and breakfast, we left for Lisieux, the city with a number of places related to the life of St. Therese. The most prominent are the Carmelite convent, her home (Les Buissonets), the cathedral, and the basilica.

By way of introduction, Thérèse of Lisieux or Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus, is also known as "The Little Flower of Jesus".

She felt an early call to religious life at the age of 15, and overcoming various obstacles, became a nun and joined two of her older sisters in the enclosed Carmelite community of Lisieux, Normandy. After 9 years as a Carmelite religious, and having spent the last 18 months in Carmel in a night of faith, she died of tuberculosis at the age of 24. Pope Pius XI made her the star of his pontificate. She was beatified in 1923, and canonized a saint in 1925.

The main reason for her great appeal to ordinary Catholics was her "Little Way" to holiness -- her example of achieving sanctity, not through undertaking great deeds, but through personal devotion and dedication. The young nun's autobiography, L'histoire d'une âme (Story of a Soul), written at the command of her prioress, was much admired for its deep spiritual wisdom and beauty. The book presented people with a compelling example of spiritual maturity and piety achieved by an ordinary young girl. An anecdote, that she had promised to send roses as a sign of her intercession, led to the affectionate nickname, the "Little Flower". Her shrine at Lisieux is still one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Europe.

After mass at the convent, we proceeded to her home (Les Buissonets) for a quick tour -

- after which we went back to her shrine for a quick tour of the museum and some photo ops, and then left for the Basilica of Lisieux, which is considered the second greatest place of pilgrimage in France after Lourdes. The basilica is considered one of the largest 20th century basilicas in the world. Its construction was finished in the 1950s. In recent years, its dome has been illuminated with blue lights creating a peaceful beacon overlooking the Lisieux valley.

After my traditional “3 wishes” and photo ops, we returned to our bus and motored back to Paris for a panoramic tour. And as we approached the famous city, the magnificent Arc de Triomphe came into view. I “oohed” and “ahhed” over architectural marvels such as the gold-leaf domed church holding Napoleon’s tomb called Hôtel des Invalides. Paris is truly beautiful. We zipped past the Champs Elysées, Musée du Louvre, and Musée d’Orsay among the sites. We saw upscale shops as well as simple delights.

Arc de Triomphe

Place de la Concorde

Underneath the “flame” is the bridge where Princess Diana had the accident

The time was short and there was so much to see! Paris, like many large urban areas, is a city of contrasts. Looking around gave me a small taste of how it must be for the average Parisian! Yet here I was in Paris - the city of love. With expectations high, I was ready for it.

There is so much history in Paris that often you do not know where to start. But for us, our first stop was Notre Dame Cathedral. Notre Dame is a beautiful cathedral on the Île de la Cité. It is an important example of French Gothic architecture, sculpture and stained glass.

Notre Dame is not the biggest, the tallest, or the oldest cathedral in the world, but it certainly is the most popular monument in Paris and in all of France, beating even the Eiffel Tower with 13 million visitors each year. But the famous cathedral is also an active Catholic church, a place of pilgrimage, and the focal point for Catholicism in France where religious events of national significance still take place.

Whether Notre Dame brings to mind Victor Hugo’s hunchback, Quasimodo or past architecture classes on ‘flying buttresses’, seeing the cathedral in the ‘flesh’ should be one of your ‘musts’ on any trip to Paris. If you’re not a churchgoer, the cathedral can be admired just as well from the exterior as from the interior. You can climb up to its bell tower for a magnificent view and a closer look at some of its decorative gargoyles.

Notre Dame was constructed between 1163 and 1334, and the amount of time and money spent on it reflected the city's growing prestige. Yet, it is the art, rather than its history, that awes, at least to me anyway. The west front remains a high point of Gothic art for the balanced proportions of its twin towers and rose window, and the three doorways with their rows of saints and sculpted tympanums: the Last Judgment (centre), Life of the Virgin (left) and Life of St Anne (right).

Inside, take a moment to admire the long nave with its solid foliate capitals -

- and the high altar with a marble Pietà by Coustou.

So whether you are going for a pilgrimage or just as a tourist, this fascinating building that has become a famous landmark in Paris is not to be missed.

Personally, there was a complete sense of awe as soon as I stepped inside the cathedral. The carvings and sculptures on the wall were simply amazing. I used to think that Notre Dame is just an old and huge cathedral. Far from it. I never thought it would be a masterpiece of art and architecture. This experience broadened my point of view of lots of places and stuff, things I never knew before, that would enlighten me during this tour.

Thereafter, we went to the Sacré-Coeur Basilica (Basilica of the Sacred Heart), one of Paris' major tourist draws. The majestic building is located on top of Montmartre hill, the highest point in the city.

The Sacré-Coeur Basilica’s iconography is distinctly nationalistic. Designed in a Romanesque-Byzantine architectural style, the triple-arched portico is surmounted by two bronze equestrian statues of France's national saints, Joan of Arc and King Saint Louis IX. Even the great bell, the Savoyarde, has nationalist references as Savoy was annexed to France in 1860. Cast in Annecy in 1895, it is one of the world's heaviest bells at 19 tons.

The Sacré-Coeur Basilica is built of Château-Landon (Seine-et-Marne) stone, a frost-resistant travertine that bleaches with age to a gleaming white. The main portal has grand bronze doors with foliage designs. Inside, the Sacré-Coeur is dim and rather gloomy except for the golden mosaics glowing from the apse. The apse mosaic is the largest in the world. It depicts Christ in Majesty and The Sacred Heart worshipped by the Virgin Mary, Joan of Arc and St. Michael the Archangel.

The floor plan is an equal-armed Greek cross, with a large dome (83m high) over the crossing. In the huge choir, 11 tall round arches support a barrel vault. The bronze altar is based on the one at Cluny Abbey in Burgundy. Since 1885, the Blessed Sacrament has been continually on display in a monstrance above the high altar. Perpetual adoration of the Blessed Sacrament has continued uninterrupted in the Basilica since 1885.

Anyhow, as soon as I stepped inside the basilica, I felt an air of tranquility and awe - a little slice of heaven. Inside is one of the largest and, surely, most beautiful mosaics in the world. It would be extremely difficult not to be amazed by its sheer beauty and serene atmosphere inside this church. I wish I had spent more time in there.

It’s unfortunate that we were unable to do this, but apparently, a climb to the top of the dome provides an excellent view of Paris. At 271 feet above Montmartre, it is the second highest viewpoint after the Eiffel Tower - and the walk around the inside of the dome alone is worth the climb.

The dome is supported by 80 columns, each topped with a different capital. The crypt contains statues of saints and a relic that some believe to be the very Sacred Heart of Christ. At the rear of the grounds is a contemplative garden and fountain.

Can you imagine yourself standing in front of the towering snow-white beauty of Sacre-Coeur Basilica, with the city of Paris stretched out behind you? I never imagined I could, but the photo above proved me wrong. It was spellbinding!

After an exhausting day, we went back to the hotel for dinner, after which I called it a night. Even though the Eiffel Tower beckons back at me, I was just too damn tired to see it again.

To Be Continued…..