CHOW: The Digest

Destination Doughnuts in Los Altos

Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:26:00 -0700

The new, family-owned Donut du Jour makes light, nongreasy doughnuts that rival those at Stan’s, says Claudette. The glazed old-fashioned, chocolate sprinkled, and “Boston-cream-pieish” varieties all make the grade. Each is only about three bites’ worth, nice for a snack.

buoncibo tried a raspberry-filled one that was “soft and plump, with a good amount of filling,” and also sampled an apple fritter that had “good amounts of cinnamon, but could have used more apples.”

“The early bird gets the coconut cream-filled doughnut rolled in burnt coconut,” notes rworange, who points out that the place opens at 5 a.m. and closes at noon weekdays, or 1 p.m. on weekends.

Just down the street at the new Esther’s German Bakery, the German coffee is nice and strong says Claudette, and “the salted and sesame pretzels were the best pretzels I’d ever had in the U.S., but not nearly as good as the ones I’d had in Germany.” Among the pastries, bee sting cake has a delicious custard filling and caramelized almond topping.

Donut du Jour [South Bay]
108 State Street, Los Altos
650-941-0258

Esther’s German Bakery [South Bay]
987 N. San Antonio Road, Los Altos
650-941-4463

Board Links: Los Altos report: Esther’s, Donut du Jour, Cravery
Los Altos–Breakfast and lunch at Esther’s German Bakery?

Latin Food Crawl in Richmond

Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:19:00 -0700

The al pastor from Taqueria La Selva’s taco wagon setup is a thing of beauty, reckons rworange. “This is no pre-formed, pre-cut pastor. The irregularly-cut slices in the spit are topped with two golden roasted rings of fresh pineapple,” she says. “It tastes even better than it looks … rich and complex with heat.”

Nearby, outside Central American market Mi Raza, there’s a lady turning out top-notch pupusas on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Hand-patted and cooked on the spot, they are the “least greasy pupusas” rworange has ever had. Loroco pupusa is just what it should be, she says, with the herb’s distinct flavor. The curtido is nice and tangy, with actual bits of puréed tomato in the sauce.

A few vendors can be found in front of St. Mark’s Catholic Church on Sundays while the two Spanish-language Masses are going on (which begin at 9:15 a.m. and 12:30 p.m.). Look for the one under a shady tree selling tamales, pan de elote, and bags of fresh fruit with chile.

“The pan de elote are wonderful: oblong, griddled and pancake-like filled with fresh corn flavor,” says rworange. “In texture [they’re] somewhere between cornbread and a pancake and about 1/3 inch thick.”

As for the pork tamales, she says, “the pork in the moist masa tasted like it had been roasted rather than stewed. Now why hasn’t anyone else thought of that? There was a rich porky flavor like getting a slice of roast pork out of the oven.”

Taqueria La Selva [East Bay]
1049 23rd Street, Richmond
510-237-0913

Mi Raza Market [East Bay]
1045 23rd Street, Richmond
510-232-5620

St. Mark’s Catholic Church [East Bay]
159 Harbour Way, Richmond
510-234-5886

Board Links: Richmond: After mass street chow at St. Mark’s–pan de elote and pork tamales
Richmond street feast part 2: Taqueria La Selva–the best al pastor tacos vapor in the Bay Area
Richmond street feast part 3: Mi Raza Market’s sidewalk pupusa lady

Anchor & Hope's East Coast Seafood

Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:15:00 -0700

Anchor & Hope, the newish fish house opened by the Rosenthal brothers and Doug Washington, does East Coast–style seafood with a twist. Lobster salad involves a “delicious blend of spices” and the classic roll, says Corte Medusa, while eetnsleep appreciates its light, olive oil–type dressing. But at around $30 for the roll, slaw, and fries, notes Xiao Yang, East Coast nostalgia ain’t cheap.

For dessert, Corte Medusa recommends the house-made chocolate cake with salt and nuts on the frosting.

Reports from Anchor’s first week, back in May, were mixed: Absonot found the sea urchin appetizer and the ceviche outstanding. “The Portuguese stew was also wonderful. Really complex flavors in a very satisfying broth.” But the lobster roll underwhelmed.

While not a fan of the restaurateur trio’s other San Francisco ventures, Salt House or Town Hall, goingoutagain liked Anchor more, finding the service friendlier and the place less pretentious.

Anchor & Hope [SOMA]
83 Minna Street, San Francisco
415-501-9100

Board Links: Anchor & Hope
Anchor & Hope
Trip report–Anchor & Hope on 83 Minna Street San Francisco

Pizza on the Grill

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:07:00 -0700

In this season of outdoor cooking, even pizza can be cooked on the grill. Here’s the basic technique, according to flourgirl: Place the crust on the grill over medium heat and close the lid; let it cook for about 3 minutes, then remove with tongs and flip it over onto a pizza peel with the uncooked side down. Add your toppings and return the pizza to grill over indirect heat with the lid down until the bottom is golden brown and the cheese is melted. todao suggests using tongs to check the bottom of the crust frequently to avoid overbrowning.

firecooked says that after you roll out your pizza dough, you can place the rounds on parchment paper (you can even stack them that way); then you can easily flip a round onto the grill upside down and peel the paper off. Cheesy Oysters finds it easier to make smaller, individual pizzas on the grill. Finally, jesoda notes that vegetables such as onions, peppers, and mushrooms should be precooked because they won’t have time to cook on the grill before the pizza is done.

Board Link: Grilled Pizza Questions and Help

Crazy for Quinoa

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:06:00 -0700

Chowhounds love cooking with quinoa, a tiny protein-packed grain. Some treat it simply, incorporating it into other dishes, while others use it as the base for salads and sides meant to highlight its nutty flavor.

ziggylu’s husband loves to cook quinoa in coconut milk. ipsedixit adds it to vegetable soups and minestrone to make them heartier. HillJ finds the grain makes an interesting substitute for rice in stuffed peppers.

pikawicca chops and adds whatever vegetables are available to cooked quinoa, along with vinaigrette, sun-dried tomatoes, and black olives.

WendyBinCT says this Martha Stewart recipe for spicy lemon quinoa is “easy and delicious.” And oakjoan says this citrus-dressed red rice and quinoa recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi is terrific, drawing raves from guests.

newfoodie recommends a breakfast recipe of warm and nutty cinnamon quinoa, saying it’s a “satisfying and unique way of preparing quinoa.”

Board Link: Quinoa–New Jfood Favorite

Watermelon Goes Beyond the Wedge

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:03:00 -0700

Summer is when watermelon really tastes great, but there’s only so much you can eat in one go. Chowhounds have some creative ways to use up the rest.

Watermelon purée makes tasty beverages. karykat recommends this recipe for Mexican watermelon and lime agua fresca, and DiningDiva suggests adding some rum to create “an interesting and drinkable cocktail.” twodales cuts watermelon into chunks and freezes it. Then, whenever he feels like it, he purées some in a blender, with or without rum, for a refreshing drink.

sugarbuzz makes watermelon ice pops by puréeing melon with sugar and lime juice, then straining and freezing the mixture in molds. HillJ simply pushes sticks into fat slices of watermelon and freezes these for a cool snack.

Watermelon works well in savory dishes, too. Nigella Lawson’s watermelon, feta, and black olive salad is a big hit with livetocook, while andrewm rates this Indian watermelon curry. And Emme recommends watermelon gazpacho, either with tomatoes or with cucumbers.

Here are some CHOW watermelon recipes as well.

Board Links: Lots of Watermelon
Too much watermelon!

Tasty Salad Spray

Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:32:00 -0700

rworange thinks that salad spray is a better idea than packaged liquid dressing in a bottle. “The salad is coated evenly and the calories are low,” says rworange. “Also, the sprays are lighter and don’t have the glop factor of bottled dressings. I can’t think of a regular bottled dressing that I don’t consider disgusting.” rworange’s favorite is Wish-Bone Salad Spritzers Ranch Vinaigrette Dressing, which is light and tasty, and full of good things like sour cream, onion juice, and garlic juice. “It has been over a decade since I bought a bottled dressing,” says rworange. “The sprays have sucked me back into buying bottled dressing … as long as it sprays.”

CHOW’s Supertaster columnist, James Norton, liked the Wish-Bone Salad Spritzers as well.

Board Link: A new favorite salad spray–Wish-Bone Ranch Salad Spritzer

Cider Doughnuts

Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:29:00 -0700

Cider doughnuts, which are cake doughnuts made with apple cider, are “simply the best, most engaging expression of what a cake donut is all about,” says jcr1. “The cider gives them a natural sweetness, not overly so, and a subtle hint of apple,” says TongoRad.

You usually encounter them, if you’re lucky, at cider stands in the Northeast, or at church socials and auctions. If none of these sources are available to you, cider doughnuts may be successfully re-created at home: Where do you think those church ladies make them? “Perhaps the internet or an old-time cookbook will have a recipe or two,” suggests jcr1.

Board Link: Please help me understand the finer points of cake donuts.

Mayonnaise Versus Aioli

Wed, 16 Jul 2008 12:20:00 -0700

What’s the difference between mayonnaise and aioli? Traditionally, aioli is made without eggs, says Ali, and absolutely has to have garlic. “Currently, I think any flavored mayo is called aioli, but unless it has garlic, that’d be a misnomer,” says Ali. In Spain, aioli is often made with nothing but garlic, olive oil, and salt, says scubadoo97. The garlic is mashed with the oil and salt in a mortar and pestle, and gradually brought into an emulsion. “I have made it this way and it does work and will build up your forearm,” says scubadoo97. “Most recipes you see will include egg yolks. This will help to quickly bring it together but is not necessary.” Mayonnaise, on the other hand, is just an emulsion of egg yolks, oil, salt, and pepper, says tmso.

tmso also notes that, because of the difficulty getting aioli to emulsify without eggs, it’s often made with boiled potatoes or reconstituted stale bread. And aioli is “sometimes made with egg yolk to do the same job, making it effectively an aioli/mayo cross. This latter one tastes distinctly different,” says tmso.

Board Link: Mayo va. Aioli

The Dumpling of Legend

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:45:00 -0700

The rash of new dumpling restaurants around Garfield has mostly disappointed exilekiss—until Noodle House. The dumplings are handmade to order: exilekiss put in an order for baozi (steamed buns and dumplings), walked over to the open kitchen, and watched the staff start kneading the dough for the buns and rolling out the skins for the dumplings.

Yu ruo shwei jiao (fish, pork, and vegetable dumplings) are transcendent, says exilekiss. And the filling—tender minced gray sole, ground pork, and diced yellow leeks—“was melt-in-your-mouth.” Baozi are equally fresh, outstanding in texture, and moist, with a perfect degree of light chew. Pumpkin-shrimp dumplings are a real winner, says Frommtron, packed with whole shrimp and shredded pumpkin. Seafood jiazi (with shrimp, sea cucumber, and whitefish) is “OUTSTANDING,” says J.L.

Fish ball noodle soup came with “the best fish balls I have ever eaten,” says Chandavkl. “Not dense at all, which I presume means more fish and less starch.”

Nio jing tahng mien (beef tendon noodle soup) is excellent, and smells amazing. While the noodles aren’t hand-pulled, they are made from scratch, and are fresh, soft, delicately textured, and superbly paired with the broth, says exilekiss.

The manager and chef are proud of the fact that Noodle House uses no MSG, ever. Be prepared to wait, though. Since the dumplings and buns are made from scratch, it takes about 25 minutes to get your food, in the best of circumstances. exilekiss even recommends staggering your order, placing one every 5 to 10 minutes, so the food comes out one by one, and you can enjoy everything at its peak of freshness.

And it’s all incredibly affordable. “On average we spent ~$7.50 per person (*including* tax and tip already). Their prices are so low for the legendary quality of their food, it’s ridiculous,” says exilekiss.

Noodle House (Mian Hsiang Yuan) [San Gabriel Valley]
958 E. Garvey Avenue, Monterey Park
626-280-0831

Board Link: Legendary, Made-To-Order, Fresh Steamed Buns and Dumplings! (or “Are You Kidding Me?!”)—NOODLE HOUSE (Mian Hsiang Yuan) [Review] w/ Pics!

The Best Peruvian in Town

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:26:00 -0700

Puro Sabor is the best Peruvian lil mikey has ever had. His second favorite is Los Balcones. Both are way ahead of Chowhound standby Mario’s Peruvian in his book. “The food never disappoints,” agrees circe0723. “The other Peruvian restaurants around LA are inferior to Puro Sabor.”

On lil mikey’s first visit, the special of the day was seco gallina, “a wonderfully tender slow-cooked beef stew. I could, and did, cut the 2’’ cubes of beef with my fork. It was very beefy-tasting,” he says. He would order it again without hesitation.

Jalea de mariscos—a huge platter of fried mixed seafood—is easily too much food for two people, and a great bargain, says Bob Brooks. “I love this place,” agrees Galen. His favorite dish: pescado sudado. circe0723’s favorite is lomo saltado, a stir-fry with tender, tasty beef and french fries. A beef heart appetizer is also delicious, as is ceviche mixto—big, fresh-tasting chunks of fish, squid, octopus, and shrimp, still perfectly firm after marination. It’s served with “huge Peruvian corn kernels cooked two ways: boiled and fried. They both added texture to the dish and really made this a complete meal,” says lil mikey.

Not much English is spoken here, but you can get by well enough without it. The servers are “consistently lovely people who work hard to make you enjoy their restaurant,” says Bob Brooks. “I highly recommend this place.”

It’s about $9 to $12 per person, plus tax and tip.

Puro Sabor [San Fernando Valley East]
6366 Van Nuys Boulevard, Van Nuys
818-908-0818

Los Balcones del Peru [Mid-City]
1360 Vine Street, Los Angeles
323-871-9600

Mario’s Peruvian [Mid-City]
5786 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles
323-466-4181

Board Link: Puro Sabor—Great Van Nuys Lunch

Bar Food from the South of Japan

Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:09:00 -0700

Shin Okinawa Izakaya is LA’s first Okinawan restaurant, as far as we know. It’s got the traditional Okinawan lion décor, all kinds of Okinawan beers, and many fine examples of Okinawan home cooking. gachimai is from Okinawa, and he proclaims Shin Okinawa Izakaya to be quite good.

Okinawa is best known for its soba, and, indeed, Shin Okinawa Izakaya’s best dish is soki soba: soba noodles in broth made from the usual kelp and dried bonito, then flavored with pork ribs. “The soup was flavorful enough that we drank the whole bowl,” says gachimai.

The goya champuru is pretty good, made from stir-fried bitter melon, pork, egg, and bean sprouts, topped with bonito fish flakes. This is a staple dish in Okinawan home cooking, explains gachimai. There’s a good version of rafute—boiled pork belly—too. Mozoku (Okinawan seaweed) and papaya champuru (green papaya salad) are disappointing and underflavored though.

There are Okinawan beers, too—like shikwasa, a beer flavored with the tart shikwasa citrus fruit. And there’s awamori with shikwasa, the Okinawan liquor that’s the local equivalent of sake. “This is the stuff all Okinawan people drink,” says gachimai. Try it on the rocks, he suggests.

Shin Okinawa Izakaya [South Bay]
1880 W. Carson Street, Suite A, Torrance
310-618-8357

Board Link: Shin Okinawa Izakaya

In Carroll Gardens, a Dumpling Destination

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:30:00 -0700

New and welcome in Chinese-challenged Carroll Gardens is a little dumpling joint called Eton. Owner Eton Chan, a chef with upmarket experience at Asiate and the just-closed Café Gray, goes home-style here, with a short menu of pot stickers (pork-beef-cabbage, chicken-mushroom, or tofu-lentil-mushroom) and Hawaiian-style shaved ice.

The signature dumplings are fresh, juicy, and delicious—“dumpling heaven!” exults curly30. Old Spice singles out the delicate wrappings (“not the usual thick, leathery stuff”) and recommends the lively house-made dipping sauces, which include one with chile and one with ginger and vinegar. At five for $3.50, these are not quite bargain bites like the five-for-a-buck dumplings hawked around Chinatown, but “the quality is definitely there,” says the_state.

Even better than the dumplings, says contempt, is the shaved ice. It comes in some 15 flavors, including Asian and tropical choices like coconut and red bean—all refreshing and not overly sweet, most hounds say. (seb, in dissent, complains of teeth-achingly sweet syrups.)

With cooler weather in fall, expect hand-pulled noodles in soup.

Eton [Carroll Gardens]
205 Sackett Street (at Henry Street), Brooklyn
No phone available

Board Link: Any one check out Eton for dumplings yet?

A Fine Mess of a Hamburger in Hell's Kitchen

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:16:00 -0700

It started at Nice Matin, the West Side brasserie that boasted of an upscale hamburger so drippingly delicious it was dubbed the Five Napkin Burger. Last month the restaurant’s owners spun off a Midtown bar and grill called (what else?) Five Napkin Burger.

The namesake specialty, a jaw-breakingly thick 10-ouncer topped with Comté cheese and caramelized onions, does not disappoint, Miss Needle reports: “The juices kept running down my hand and arm as I was biting into it.” Other variations include a bacon-cheddar burger; a bunless, lettuce-wrapped “Inside Out” burger; turkey or tuna burgers; and the lamb kefta burger (“incredibly tasty,” delikado raves).

Beyond burgers, hounds like the crisp, salty fries; mussels steamed in ale; and the impressive beer list. They’re less enthusiastic about the lineup of sushi rolls, which some find out of place. “I couldn’t help but wonder why I was eating sushi as a precursor to my burger,” delikado says.

Five Napkin Burger [Theater District]
630 Ninth Avenue (between W. 44th and 45th streets), Manhattan
212-757-2277

Board Link: 5 Napkin Burger–Review

A Diner with a Difference in Woodside

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:03:00 -0700

There’s no shortage of diners along Roosevelt Avenue in Woodside, but really good ones are rare, E Eto laments. A new bright spot in the neighborhood is El Guarache, where an anonymous short-order ace is turning out unusually good comfort food.

Burgers are smallish, in the fast-food style, but dependably good—and a decent deal at around $5 with fries. For a dollar more, E Eto recommends the Guarache (with grilled onions, bacon, mushrooms, peppers, and cheese), a worthy alternative to local burger favorite Donovan’s. Breakfast fare is also hound-worthy; an omelet with bacon and perfectly ripe avocado, served with well-seasoned, nicely crusty home fries, was a recent standout. Beyond all-American diner grub, the menu features some Mexican dishes, including a pretty good torta stuffed with moist, flavorful grilled chicken.

“What seems to be the common factor in all my visits,” E Eto adds, “is that there’s one guy cooking in the kitchen, and all my positive experiences are likely linked to his skills as a short order cook.”

El Guarache [Woodside]
68-06 Roosevelt Avenue (at 68th Street), Woodside, Queens
718-205-6482

Board Link: El Guarache, a diner alternative in Woodside

Pure Plum Pleasure from Il Laboratorio del Gelato

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 12:01:00 -0700

What lifts Il Laboratorio del Gelato’s black plum sorbetto to the next level, Ruth Lafler observes, is bits of plum skin. The delicious and unusual result: true plum tartness.

Il Laboratorio del Gelato [Lower East Side]
95 Orchard Street (between Broome and Delancey streets), Manhattan
212-343-9922

Board Link: Do you need reservations at small restaurants…

Sonoma County Pizza

Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:39:00 -0700

One of the best new vendors at the Friday morning farmers’ market in Sonoma is Kashaya’s Brick Oven Pizza, says Melanie Wong, who visited and posted photos. Kashaya’s day job is baking for Whole Foods in Petaluma, and she learned about wood-burning ovens while working at Della Fattoria.

The pizzas are baked to order in a brick oven on a trailer that’s fired up well before the market opens and transported there hot.

“The pizza crust, made with organic flour, is great with the special nuance that wood smoke and high heat add,” says Melanie Wong. “Chewy-tender on the puffy edges, stretched extremely thin in the middle, crisp on the bottom, and full of yeasty goodness.” Melanie ordered hers “scorched,” but it got a little tough when it cooled; the regular well-browned way is probably better.

Spinach, ricotta, and garlic pizza perfectly balances salt and savory against the green leafiness of the baby spinach. Other topping combos include potato, rosemary, and mushroom; and apricot, strawberry, and slivered almonds. Some toppings run out toward the end of the market, so order early. Pizzas are $7 regular size, or $12 large.

Kashaya sells at both the Tuesday and Friday Sonoma markets and the Cotati market on Thursday evenings. She also does catering.

Over in Petaluma, Melanie also tried pizza at a franchise of one of Oregon’s favorite pizzeria chains, Pizzicato. At lunch, two slices with a fountain drink is $6.99 with tax, and costs even less if you order cheese pizza.

“The crust is very thin, well-browned, and crispy-chewy,” she says. “The April special had savory bits of scallions and fresh herbs combined with sweet caramelized red onions and nuggets of prosciutto.”

“Toppings aren’t pedigreed,” she continues, “yet they’re wholesome and fresh and good quality at this price.” The place is located in a strip mall next to Whole Foods, and has “a fast-food feel.”

Kashaya’s Brick Oven Pizza [Sonoma County]
Sonoma and Cotati farmers’ markets
707-303-6064

Pizzicato [Sonoma County]
615 E. Washington Street, Petaluma
707-762-2216

Board Links: Kashaya’s Brick Oven Pizza (Sonoma, Cotati, Santa Rosa)
Pizzicato’s Two Slice Lunch Deal (Petaluma)

Thai Chefs Defect to the East (Bay)

Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:35:00 -0700

The former chef at Thai House Express in San Francisco has left, along with his sous-chef, and opened Chai Thai Noodles in Oakland, says DezzerSF. It has about 10 nicely spaced four-tops and a flat-screen TV on the wall.

The new place has all the atmosphere of an institutional shower room, complains Robert Lauriston, who doesn’t like the bright fluorescent lights and white tile. However, the squid salad is “stellar,” and he also liked the Dungeness crab noodles despite a paucity of the promised crab.

The menu is basically the same as at Thai House Express, minus a few items, say hounds. The much-loved pork leg stew is there, almost as good as ever, says pastryqueen, whose only quibble is that the rice seems to be regular long-grain, not jasmine.

Catfish salad (yum pla dook foo) is “more like an airy batter with catfish bits mixed in, served over a bed of shredded lettuce, and topped with cashews and red bell pepper,” says DezzerSF. It’s served with a mixture of fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, red onions, and cilantro.

The finely textured, lemongrass-scented fried sausage is nicely browned, with “an addictive snap,” says daveena, who adds that another catfish dish, this time deep-fried pieces of fish with vegetables, is also really tasty, with a similar sauce as the salad.

Back in SF, Thai House Express doesn’t seem to have suffered. The pork leg stew is still juicy and tender, reports DaveMP. “One of the best meals you can get for $8 in San Francisco,” he says, even though here, too, the rice now seems to be long-grain.

Chai Thai Noodles [East Bay]
545B International Boulevard, Oakland
510-832-2500

Thai House Express [Tenderloin]
901 Larkin Street, San Francisco
415-441-2248

Board Links: Chai Thai Noodles (Oakland) Thai House Express chef alert
Quick Thai House Express Report

Viet-Style Crab Salad

Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:33:00 -0700

“The crab salad at Jasmine Garden has soared to the top of my SF Fave List,” says Cynsa. “A whole cold crab is marinated in a delectable dressing, garnished with mint and slices of hot red chilies, and presented in shell, with picks, shell crackers, and cloth napkins. Messy fingers to lick are a delight.”

As a grand opening special, the crab salad is just $19.95. And a side order of garlic noodles is subtle and delicious, neither too buttery nor too garlicky.

“Service is friendly and welcoming; the décor is modern and artful,” adds Cynsa.

Jasmine Garden [Duboce Triangle]
708 14th Street, San Francisco
415-861-2682

Board Link: Grand Opening Crab Special–Jasmine Garden

Duck Soup in Oakland

Fri, 11 Jul 2008 12:26:00 -0700

Having thoroughly explored the duck noodle soup options in Oakland’s Chinatown (or at least tried all the places with a duck hanging in the window), daveena has concluded that the best of the bunch is Gum Wah.

Tender duck meat that comes easily off the bone with no fat; springy, skinny wheat noodles; and broth that tastes “like it came from roasted duck carcasses” makes this place a winner for daveena.

Ying Kee Noodle House is a runner-up thanks to its tender duck with a little fat, slightly soft noodles, and rich broth that tastes like a chicken-duck combo. You can get veggies as an add-in; the noodles are also extra. The whole roast duck, though, is awfully salty.

At New Gold Medal, daveena had duck that was “flavorful but tough.” The skinny wheat noodles had great texture, and daveena also liked the home-style scrambled eggs with bitter melon: “The squash was barely bitter, super silky, really delicious.”

Gum Kuo is “wildly inconsistent, even within a single bowl,” reports daveena. But the noodles are good, and the chicken-duck broth is fairly rich.

The duck at Café 88 has a strong star anise flavor, but is slightly tough. It’s served separately from the excellent broth and noodles. Rice vermicelli is standard here, and wheat noodles are an option, although daveena reports receiving a “fairly skimpy portion” on one visit.

Gum Wah [East Bay]
345 Eighth Street, Oakland
510-834-3103

Ying Kee Noodle House [East Bay]
387 Ninth Street, Oakland
510-465-1888

New Gold Medal [East Bay]
389 Eighth Street, Oakland
510-465-1940

Gum Kuo [East Bay]
388 Ninth Street #182, Oakland
510-268-1288

Café 88 [East Bay]
388 Ninth Street #181, Oakland
510-844-0651

Board Link: My Tuesday Project: Oakland Chinatown Duck Noodle Soup Roundup

Jerk Your Own Chicken

Thu, 10 Jul 2008 11:28:00 -0700

Authentic jerk chicken, the spicy Jamaican street food, contains habanero peppers, allspice, scallions, and thyme, says Val.

9lives makes a “lazy man’s” jerk chicken, saying, “I don’t pretend that this is authentic, but it’s easy and good.” He makes a paste in a food processor with habaneros, red onion, scallions, ginger, garlic, vinegar, olive oil, allspice, cilantro, and fresh thyme, adjusting the amounts to taste. (9lives warns that it’s important to take special care when handling extra-hot habaneros, and especially to avoid touching your eyes.) Rub some of the paste on the chicken, refrigerate for 24 hours, then grill, basting with the remaining paste.

diva360 recommends this recipe for jerk chicken, and alkapal says Steven Raichlen’s jerk seasoning and sauce will “light your fire, it’s that wonderful.”

Board Link: Lazy Man’s Jerked Chicken

Great Grain Salads

Thu, 10 Jul 2008 11:24:00 -0700

With summer here at last, Chowhounds have been discussing their favorite grain salads to stash in the fridge and either use as sides when grilling or as light meals all on their own.

hollyd makes a brown and wild rice salad with almonds, cranberries, red pepper, and scallions. The dressing is mango chutney puréed in the food processor and thinned with a little rice wine vinegar, water, and oil.

Sherri likes cooked wheat berries, feta cheese, cucumber chunks, red onions (or scallions), kalamata olives, red bell peppers, lemon vinaigrette, and herbs. kmills9408 makes a similar salad with quinoa.

And Missyme recommends this black bean and tomato quinoa recipe, saying its lime dressing is “so light and refreshing.”

Board Link: ISO your best “grains” salads–scorching hot

Cooking with Pineapple Juice

Thu, 10 Jul 2008 11:18:00 -0700

Chowhounds do much more with pineapple juice than just drink it; they also cook with it, in dishes both savory and sweet.

pamd uses pineapple juice mixed with fresh fruit to make frozen fruit pops, and nakedzombieforce loves floats made with pineapple juice and pineapple ice cream “plus a mini-umbrella and cherry.”

laliz makes a dressing for fruit salad by mixing 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 3/4 cup pineapple juice in a saucepan until smooth. Bring it to a boil, cook and stir for 1 minute or until thickened, then cool.

Miss Needle makes a marinade with pineapple juice, soy, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, and scallions, which lynnlato uses with pork or flank steak.

tochipotle makes mango chutney by mixing pineapple juice with chopped mango, orange pepper, red onion, a little garlic, cilantro, and jalapeño, and says it’s a “really great fresh, flavorful addition to fish or pork.”

Board Link: what to do w/ pineapple juice?

The Best of Serbian Cuisine

Wed, 09 Jul 2008 12:20:00 -0700

Burek, a phyllo dough pastry layered with soft white farmer’s cheese and oil, is a “greasy piece of morning happiness,” according to susancinsf. In Serbia, it’s purchased in bakeries and eaten with high-quality yogurt “to cut through the grease,” she says. Some versions are stuffed with meat and nettles or spinach. A more heavily stuffed homemade version of burek, with cream added to the cheese, is called gibanica. susaninsf’s favorite thing is the heavenly Serbian dish of stuffed pickled cabbage, called sarma.

Serbian cuisine also features many kinds of sir, or cheese, continues susancinsf, which are “young, tangy, creamy, mild, salty, white pieces of heaven … Think of the whole spectrum of flavors and consistencies you can imagine from ricotta to feta.” Other dishes include cevapi (which Ruth Lafler describes as finger-size pieces of ground meat grilled like sausages); potato dumplings stuffed with plums and rolled in fried breadcrumbs with sugar; and kiselo ovcije mleko, a sour sheep’s milk drink that susancinsf describes as slightly bitter, slightly tangy, and fatty. “There is nothing more refreshing on summer days,” she reckons.

Board Link: the best of Serbian cuisine

Japanese Black Beer

Wed, 09 Jul 2008 12:16:00 -0700

njfreqflyer fell in love with kuronama (Japanese black beer) on a trip to Japan, and now thinks that Asahi’s version is the best beer in the world. It boasts “a rich depth and a slightly nutty, roasted flavor,” says njfreqflyer, while al_starr loves its “caramel smooth taste.”

It’s distributed in the United States, though it seems to be easier to find on the West Coast than the East Coast. bulavinaka has spotted a six-pack of it in a 99 Ranch Market for $11.99: It was “by far one of the more expensive beers there, I’m guessing because it’s one of the few Japanese beers still brewed in Japan and exported all the way over here.”

If you’re craving kuronama and can’t find it, TongoRad recommends trying any beer brewed in the schwarzbier style. “Samuel Adams Black Lager is a pretty respectable version of the style,” he says, and adds that it’s also easy to find and affordable. And JessKidden recommends Yuengling Porter as another easy-to-find substitute.

Board Link: Desperately seeking kuronama (Japanese black beer)

Orbit's Exotic Gum

Wed, 09 Jul 2008 12:12:00 -0700

The exotic summer flavors of Orbit gum remind StephP of “the chewing gum which has a three-course dinner in it” from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, as you can sometimes perceive three or four clear flavors at once. She finds the Mint Mojito flavor to be “a bit strange,” and the Maui Melon Mint “even stranger but in more likeable way.”

LaLa likes the Mint Mojito flavor, as does Olallieberry, though she finds the Maui Melon Mint to be disgusting. “I had to spit it out instantly,” she says. Other flavors Olallieberry has tried include Sangria Fresca (not very good) and Strawberry Mint (good), but she has yet to sample the Fabulous Fruitini.

ipsedixit thinks they are all terrible because they’re “too sweet and tangy.” kcijones001 agrees, and adds “the flavor lasts all of a minute.”

Board Link: Orbit gum: faves from summer flavors?

Armenian Perfection

Tue, 08 Jul 2008 12:24:00 -0700

Taron Bakery in Glendale is Armenian heaven, says mrshankly. It serves “the best, and I mean the BEST Spinach and Cheese beoregs I’ve ever had since my aunt used to make them growing up.” Lahmajun—Armenian pizza—is also really tasty. When it’s hot out of the oven, it’s incredible, says glutton. The shop sometimes has delicious freshly baked tahini bread as well.

Lahmajun is 90 cents per piece. Beoregs, which are about half the size of a dinner plate, are $1.50, and come with a variety of stuffings. The service was “dry and abrasive but the food made up for that many times over,” says mrshankly. “Order quickly, find a quiet place, and pig out on the Armenian goodness!!!”

lil mikey really likes the Hollywood branch of Taron Bakery, though it’s slightly more expensive than the Glendale branch.

Taron Bakery [San Fernando Valley–East]
1117 South Glendale Avenue, Glendale
818-553-1883

Taron Bakery [East of Hollywood]
4950 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles
323-663-4809

Board Link: Taron Bakery… Armenian heaven!!

Sublime Sushi at Maki-Zushi

Tue, 08 Jul 2008 12:19:00 -0700

The sushi purist may balk after a glance at Maki-Zushi’s menu: There’s the usual Westernized fare, like chicken teriyaki and 50 kinds of overstuffed crazy rolls. But turn the paper menu over, and you’ll see—in big, bold letters—“HARDCORE SUSHI” followed by a beautiful list of very traditional sushi, with all sorts of rarities. According to Chef Yoshio Sakamoto, most of the other serious sushi restaurants serve only traditional fare. He wanted to open a restaurant that catered to every taste.

For the purist, omakase with Sakamoto-san is sublime. exilekiss was impressed from the very first item: hamachi toro (yellowtail belly), flown in from Tokyo. “As the wave of euphoria from the buttery goodness washed over me, I could tell that this was going to be a special place already. Simply amazing.”

And the rest of the sushi is that good, too, from kanpachi (amberjack) and shima aji (yellowjack) to hon maguro (bluefin tuna) flown from in from Morocco and otori ama-ebi (live sweet shrimp) from Santa Barbara. There’s sayori (needlefish), inada (baby yellowtail), and sazae (turban sea snail). And there are surprises, like fake “rice cracker” snacks made from the bones of Spanish mackerel fried at high temperature. And there’s some all-out decadence, like Kumamoto oysters topped with salmon roe, smelt roe, sea urchin, and quail egg.

Sakamoto-san’s knife work is excellent, says exilekiss, and he understands how to cut for the essence of each fish. This is certainly the best sushi in Orange County, and among the best in all of Southern California.

Maki-Zushi [Orange County]
1641 Edinger Avenue, Tustin
714-259-0783

Board Link: Top Class Sushi… in Orange County(!)–Maki Zushi [Review] w/ Pics!

The Height of Argentine Fare

Tue, 08 Jul 2008 12:06:00 -0700

“The epitome of Argentinian food in LA is Mercado Buenos Aires,” says RicRios. “The service is very authentic (which means as bad as it gets …),” he says, the TV screens are constantly blaring soccer, and the food is excellent. And cheap. It’s “very informal,” says estone888, but it serves “truly great steaks, great Argentinian sausages, matambre, empanadas, parillada, great chimichurri on the table–all about as authentically like a neighborhood cafe in Argentina as you can find.” Mercado Buenos Aires “is as good as it gets,” agrees anothernotch.

Others recommend Carlitos Gardel. The place really knows its wines, especially Malbecs, says Foodandwine. And be sure to get dessert, like mascarpone tart with dulce de leche at the bottom, mascarpone mousse in the center, and a dark chocolate shell. It’s simple and perfect, says tablefor1, who also recommends the flan: “the perfect balance of cool-jiggly and melt-in-your-mouth creamy.”

Mercado Buenos Aires [San Fernando Valley–West]
7540 Sepulveda Boulevard, Van Nuys
818-786-0522

Carlitos Gardel [Mid-City]
7963 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles
323-655-0891

Board Link: Argentinian Food

Midtown Street Chow from Mexico to Korea

Mon, 07 Jul 2008 12:51:00 -0700

Hound-worthy Mexican bites have turned up outside the Mexican Consulate, appropriately enough. A vendor stakes out a spot in front of the building on E. 39th Street and hawks tamales (pork, chicken, or cheese) and various hot and cold beverages from early morning at least till lunch hour. Good stuff, hounds say. Don’t go too late—she’s been known to sell out of the tamales by early afternoon.

Ten blocks north and a bit west, a Korean vendor peddles barbecued meats over rice from a silver cart. The standout on the short menu is addictively tasty kalbi (short rib, also known as galbi)—“laced with crack,” ventures cimui, “or at least I think that’s why I’ve been eating it every day.” Also on the rotating menu: bulgogi (grilled beef), bibimbap (mixed rice), and other items. For $6, don’t expect quality on a par with the top barbecue houses, cimui adds, “but if you’re a midtown office gnome like me, the galbi is a good bet for lunch.”

Tamale vendor [Murray Hill]
In front of the Mexican Consulate, 27 E. 39th Street (between Park and Madison avenues), Manhattan
No phone available

Bulgogi and kimchi cart [Midtown]
W. 49th Street just west of Sixth Avenue, Manhattan
No phone available

Board Links: Tamales in Midtown -quick report
The galbi at the bulgogi and kimchee cart on 49th, west of B’way is laced with crack!