Chris Townsend Outdoors

Vote For My Book!

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 29 May 2012 23:11:00 +0000

A Year In The Life Of The Cairngorms has been selected as one of eight candidates for the Favourite Scottish Nature Photography Book in the Scottish Nature Photography Awards. This category is decided by an online vote so I'd be grateful if any readers who enjoyed my book would vote for it. Here's the link.

Thanks!

June TGO: Tent or Tarp, Synthetic Sleeping Bags, Micro Rocket, Norwegian Clothing

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 29 May 2012 00:03:00 +0000

Tarp Camping on the Arizona Trail

The June issue of TGO is in the shops now. My contributions are a review of 12 synthetic sleeping bags designed for summer, a first look at the MSR Micro Rocket stove, a test report on some Norwegian Brynje clothing I tried over the winter (base layer, fleece and two hats), a book review and, in my backpacking column, a consideration of different wild camping styles.

The theme of this issue is summer, which is appropriate given the recent heatwave (though of course it might now rain for the next three months!). In the Almanac there's a wonderful sumptuous picture by Mike Kipling of a flower meadow in Upper Swaledale that sums up summer in the English hills. Cameron McNeish describes the new 230 mile Stevenson Way, which traces the route followed by David Balfour in Robert Louis Stevenson's novel Kidnapped from the Isle of Mull to Edinburgh by way of Rannoch Moor and the Trossachs, and suggests some weekend long sections. Dan Bailey takes his baby up Skiddaw and looks at hillwalking with a young child. Unburdened by children or summer Ed Byrne tries his hand at severe-grade rock climbing in Snowdonia on a cold, rainy day and discovers the agonies of the hot aches. Paddy Dillon goes to Tenerife, but not to sit on the beach, rather to walk the rugged GR 131 route, which looks wonderful. More contemplative is Robert Macfarlane, describing old paths and tracks, the subject of his latest book, The Old Ways: A Journey on Foot, which is reviewed by Cameron McNeish. He starts and finishes his essay at Formby Point, of which there is also an evocative picture. Being brought up in Formby my first walking was here and I know this coast well. It's good to see it in TGO. This month's photo essay is of the land where I now live and walk: Scotland. Ted Leeming's images are evocative and inspiring, especially the opening spread of a misty Loch an Eilean in the Cairngorms. Elsewhere Roger Smith envisages a network of linked National Trails while Jim Perrin's Hillwalkers' Library looks at a book I must admit I have never come across before - Roger Lloyd Praeger's The Way I Went, about the author's walks in Ireland. Another one for my reading list. In the Gear section as well as my reviews John Manning reviews 13 pairs of gaiters. And at the back of the magazine Carey Davies ponders the significance of the Kinder Scout Mass Trespass on its 80th Anniversary.

TGO Challenge 4: A Heatwave Finish

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sat, 26 May 2012 23:18:00 +0000

Day 13: Hot weather in the Glen Doll hills.

The hot weather expanded and grew during the last three days as I crossed the hills from Glen Shee to Glen Doll, Glen Clova and Glen Lethnot before a final foot hammering road walk to Montrose. The weather of the previous week seemed unreal as I strode across crunchy dry turf and heather, my main concerns being sunburn and blisters rather than being blown over, soaked and frozen. This really was a Challenge of contrasts. Below are a few images showing some of the variety.

Overall for me it was an enjoyable Challenge, with only the three overcast days of low cloud and drizzle in the middle being at all dull. The rain, wind and snow and the ever-changing clouds made the first six days exciting, spectacular and challenging. The sunshine and clear views made the last five days delightful and relaxing (though I was glad when the final road walk to Montrose was over).

The evening in the Park Hotel in Montrose was as enjoyable as ever, talking to old friends and making new ones, and listening to the speakers and awards. Having seen no other Challengers since the third day I heard many stories for the first time and realised that this year it really was an adventure. The drop-out rate was the highest ever at 53. Given the weather of the first week, especially the 100+mph winds and month's rainfall in 24 hours on the third day, I think that's actually quite a low number.

Day 1: Snow, wind and cloud on Beinn Liath Mhor.

Day 3: The Allt Innis a'Mhuilt after hours of torrential rain.

Day 5: Spindrift and cloud on Toll Creagach.

Day 14: Last camp, Glen Lethnot

TGO Challenge 3: Sunshine & Shimmering Hills

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 22 May 2012 12:23:00 +0000

Day 10: Camp in Glen Feshie

Three days of sunshine and superbly clear air. The rivers glow with golden peat-stained snow melt and rain runoff. The hills are bright with snow, the sky and lakes astonishingly blue. The world is wonderful.

The northern Cairngorms looked too snowy so I came south to browner hills, though still with many white patches. From Glen Feshie to Glen Shee and next to Glen Doll, Glen Clova, West Water and finally Montrose.

The picture is of my camp in Glen Feshie.

TGO Challenge 2: Mist & Drizzle to Newtonmore.

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sat, 19 May 2012 12:33:00 +0000

Day 7: In Melgarve Bothy

Two days over the Corrieyairick Pass to Newtonmore in drizzle, low cloud and a bitter east wind. Hills mostly hidden but many birds and deer plus spring flowers low down. Read most of the way- a Kindle in a waterproof cover is amazing! Overnight in Melgarve Bothy where I slept on sofa cushions so no need for thin foam mat. Yesterday three knee deep fords in Glen Banchor as rain and snowmelt poured off the hills.

Last night in excellent Newtonmore Hostel where I heard tales of tents flooded, walkers swept down burns and waist deep snow in the Lairig Ghru. There will be stories told of this Challenge for many years!

Equipped with an old Therm-A-Rest, dropped off by friends in Newtonmore, I'm now heading for the Cairngorms to see what the snow is like.

TGO Challenge 1: Wild, Wet, Windy & Wintry.

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Thu, 17 May 2012 13:03:00 +0000

Day 3: Camp after the big storm.

Fort Augustus. May 16. Rain. The 7th day of the Challenge. There has not been one wholly dry day or night but there have been gloriously sunny moments with the freshly snow clad hills sparkling. My camps have been good too, three in woods, squeezed in between spring birches and sombre pines. Of the two on open exposed sites on only one was it very windy and my shelter coped well. That was the night before the day of ferocious winds and continuous rain when I was nearly blown off my feet on a low level route. Then came the cold front backlash and a day of hail and snow and kicking steps over Toll Creagach in head high spindrift. Next comes a two day crossing of the Monadh Liath. The forecast is for rain.

My equipment has held up, all except my high-tech airbed, which burst internally, leading to a rather disturbing and unusable bulbous end. After two uncomfortable nights I have replaced it with a cheap thin foam mat. At least this can't burst.

TGO Challenge 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Thu, 10 May 2012 23:21:00 +0000


Camp in Glen Quoich on the TGO Challenge 2009

In just over eight hours I'll be heading to Torridon in the Northwest Highlands for the start of the 33rd TGO Challenge backpacking hike across the Scottish Highlands. It'll be my 14th Challenge and my first since 2009. This year my route wanders over the Achnashellach, Strathfarrar, Mullardoch and Glen Affric hills to my first resupply point at Fort Augustus. I'll need six days supplies for this section but after that I'll not need more than three days worth at a time as I cross the Monadh Liath to Newtonmore and Kingussie and then the Cairngorms to Braemar and Ballater with a finish over Mount Keen and Mount Battock to Stonehaven.

There are 33 Munros on the route plus a handful of lower hills. How many of these I actually climb will depend largely on the weather. And the forecast is not good. Tomorrow the current stormy weather is meant to slowly clear, giving a fine afternoon and evening, which is when I'll be walking. Saturday looks good too. Then it all changes. On Sunday heavy rain and winds gusting to 80mph at 900 metres are forecast and the storms are predicted to continue through the next few days. On the summits the rain could be snow. And after that? The long range forecast is for more storms. Long range forecasts are notoriously unreliable. I am really hoping this one lives up to that.

The forecast is for it to be unseasonably cold too. With that plus the rain, snow and wind in mind I've modified my inital gear list, adding a warmer insulated jacket, a heavier waterproof jacket, long johns, overmitts, a second pair of spare socks. That's added a kilo or so to my load. With the initial six days supplies it's quite heavy at 18kg, including my cameras and tripod. I had hoped to carry less but I also don't want to be cold or wet. Balancing comfort with weight is part of the skill of backpacking.

I'll be reporting in TGO on the gear I use. Interesting items include the Mountain Laurel Designs silnylon Trailstar tarp with OookWorks OookTub groundsheet, Berghaus Mount Asgard Hybrid water-resistant down/Primaloft jacket and Westcomb Apoc Neoshell jacket. My pack is the old-style GoLite Quest and my stove the Trail Designs Caldera Ti-Tri, both veterans of my Pacific Northwest Trail hike. I don't think I'll be using wood as fuel that often on this trip though.

Now there's just time for some sleep before I leave. If I can get a connection and have time I may post during the walk. Otherwise I'll let you know how it went when I return.

Book Review: The Natural Explorer by Tristan Gooley

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 08 May 2012 23:45:00 +0000

Tristan Gooley’s follow-up to the successful The Natural Navigator is subtitled Understanding Your Landscape and that’s what the book is about, if you take “landscape” in its widest context to include culture and philosophy as well as actual land. The author’s intention is to encourage travellers to be inquisitive about where they are in all its aspects, an intention which I happily endorse. Curiosity is an invaluable trait.

Whilst there are references to many explorers three nineteenth century ones run through the book, linked by their interest in everything they saw – Alexander Humbolt who explored South America from 1799 to 1804, Ludwig Leichhardt who explored north-east Australia from 1844-45 and Charles Darwin, who went round the world from 1831-36 (I recently read Darwin’s Voyage of the Beagle, an interesting and thought-provoking book).

Aspects of the natural world – plants, mountains, coasts, ice, animals, sky, weather and more – make up almost half the book, after which the author ranges widely, covering subjects from cities and worldly goods to beauty, inner time and mood, and imagination and wonder. In all twenty-nine topics are covered, with facts and ideas crammed in, which does give a rather breathless feel to the text in places. Mountains are covered in just twelve pages, rivers in thirteen and time in fifteen. As the information rushes past, the facts piling on top of each other, it’s easy to lose track of much of it. For that reason I think this is a book to read slowly or to dip into now and then, leaving time to ponder and digest.

Inevitably in a book that covers so much so briefly there are some misleading simplifications (the description of the difference between the theories of Lamarck and Darwin is one) and some partial or dubious statements (pre-dawn starts for mountain ascents are not usually to reach the summit for the best views before clouds sweep in – avoiding avalanches and thunderstorms is usually more important!). I don’t think these matter though – in a book so stuffed full there are bound to be some errors. The whole point of the book is to encourage enquiry anyway. Go out and check!

Although designed to cover all types of journeys I think this book is particularly relevant to walkers. Walking is the right speed to see, contemplate and learn about landscapes. This book will help you do so.

May Day Ski Tour

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Wed, 02 May 2012 23:56:00 +0000

On the summit of Ben Macdui

Winter has come late, very late, to the Cairngorms. After months of mild, even hot, weather with much rain, light winds and only occasional snow that never lasted long the end of April brought heavy snow to the tops and frosty nights to ensure it has lasted. At last there was a chance to undertake my favourite ski tour, across the Cairngorm Plateau to Ben Macdui. I usually do this tour at least once every season. This year had looked like being the exception. However on May Day I set off up the mountain, only needing to carry my skis for the first twenty minutes or so. Then it was onto the snow.*

Stob Coire an t-Sneachda

And what snow! A complete deep cover stretching unbroken right across to Ben Macdui. High in the sky the hot sun shown down making the snow brighter and sharper than it appears earlier in the year. The sky was a deep alpine blue.** Rarely do the hills look like this as such extensive snow cover is highly unusual this late in the spring.

View across the Plateau to Cairn Gorm

The skiing to Ben Macdui was delightful, the spring snow being slick and fast so the skis slid easily across it. Several other skiers were out enjoying the magical conditions plus one pair of walkers. Looking at the deep holes their boots made in the snow I was glad of the freedom of my skis. Swooping and gliding rather than trudging and stumbling.

Across the Lairig Ghru pass the great peaks of Braeriach, Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochain Uaine were all shining in the sun, white with snow. Looking west from Ben Macdui the farther hills appeared more snow free. Only south and east did they look as white. I sat on the summit in the sunshine watching a snow bunting pecking round for food scraps. Usually any stop here in the snow requires bundling up in insulated clothing. This time a light jacket to fend off the occasional cool gust of wind was all I needed. Sunscreen and dark glasses were more important equipment than warm clothing.

Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochain Uaine

Back across the Plateau I crossed the shoulder of Cairn Lochan and had the best downhill skiing of the day, down lovely smooth slopes into the head of Lurcher’s Gully before linking the last patches of snow until finally I had to remove my skis for the last quarter of an hour. Above the mountains glistened. A perfect mountain day. A perfect May Day.

*Note for skiers. I used climbing skins for the ascent to the Plateau and then Swix Red Special grip wax, which worked perfectly, for the rest of the tour.

** Note for photographers. The sky really was that blue. No polarising filter was used nor have I boosted the saturation in editing software.

Bothy Talk on BBC Landward

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Wed, 02 May 2012 16:01:00 +0000

Not the bothy in the programme!

A few weeks ago I spent a night in a bothy for the Landward programme on BBC2. I chatted to Dougie Vipond about various bothy experiences and was filmed sitting by the fire and being asleep in my sleeping bag! The programe itself goes out this Friday at 7.00p.m. on BBC2 Scotland, after which it will be available on BBC iPlayer for the next week. I'll be interested to see which of my stories are broadcast!

A Trip to Wales: the Berwyn Range and Llangollen Hills

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sun, 29 Apr 2012 23:27:00 +0000

The summit of Y Foel with the Berwyn range on the horizon

Some of my first hillwalking was in Wales, on school trips to Snowdonia, and later I was at college in Lampeter and explored the Pumlumon hills and climbed Cadair Idris. I’ve walking in the Black Mountains too and the Brecon Beacons. However I’d never been hillwalking in the steep country of north-east Wales around the attractive little town of Llangollen. Some old friends having moved to the area I visited it recently and was surprised and delighted at the ruggedness, steepness and height of the hills. This is splendidly complex country; a wonderful tangle of winding rivers, moorland hills, limestone escarpments and beautiful woods.

While staying with my friends I climbed three of the local hills; two of them easy short ascents, one a real mountain day. Firstly Denise and I with our friend Alain went up a gentle little moorland hill called Y Foel. Only 522 metres high and no more than an easy stroll this top still has a rough stony summit that gives it the feel of a bigger hill plus spreading views in every direction, views enhanced on my visit by the wild skies and racing clouds. Squalls could be seen sweeping across nearby hills and we were glad to be back down before the rain came.

Cadair Berwyn

The big hills in this area make up the Berwyn range, a long moorland ridge with some big craggy corries (or rather cwms as this is Wales) on its eastern edge and a high point of 830 metres on Cadair Berwyn. On the southern side of the range is the great waterfall of Pistyll Rhaedr, at 80 metres the highest in Wales and England, which crashes dramatically down a wooded gorge. There’s a car park here and a good café. After fortifying ourselves with coffee and cake (it was raining) Alain and I set off into Cwm Nant Y Llyn, bracing ourselves against the keen wind and heavy showers. Ahead dark clouds were ripping across the hidden summits. As we climbed the wind strengthened and I wondered if we’d make the tops. Suddenly below us the dark waters of Llyn Lluncaws appeared, tucked into a rugged bowl. Two tents were pitched on the far shore, a fine wild site.

On the ridge above the little lake the rain turned to sleet and hail and gusts of wind threatened to blow us over. Struggling on we reached the gentler slopes of Moel Sych where, surprisingly, the wind was less strong. In thick mist now we followed the edge of the crags to the summit of Cadair Berwyn then turned to cross Moel Sych and descend a long heather and bog broad ridge back to Pistyll Rhaedr. As we dropped down the clouds began to lift and there was even a touch of sunshine. Behind us we could see the hills we’d climbed.

Castell Dinas Bran

Two days later Alain and I walked down through the woods from his house to Llangollen. Across the valley we could see the ragged ruins of an old castle on a steep hilltop. This is Castell Dinas Bran, a medieval castle that commands an extensive view on all sides. From afar the jagged crown of stones reminded me of Amon Sul in the film of J.R.R.Tolkien’s The Fellowship of the Ring, where the Black Riders attack the Hobbits, which has a similar ruin on its summit. From the town we climbed the steep grassy slopes to the summit and admired the remnants of the castle and the tremendous vista on all sides. Looking down the Dee valley to the flatlands of England it was clear that an approaching army would be seen many miles away.

I have to admit I didn’t know the country round Llangollen was so rugged or interesting. I feel I have discovered a new outdoor world. I’ll be back.

Robert Saunders - Tent Maker

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sat, 28 Apr 2012 00:38:00 +0000

I was saddened to hear recently of the death of Robert Saunders, one of the pioneers of modern lightweight tent design. Back in the 1970s he was the first British tent maker to design lightweight nylon tents suitable for backpacking. My first proper backpacking tent was a Saunders Backpacker II, a tapered ridge tent with a thin breathable nylon inner and a large porch that weighed around 2kg. It pitched flysheet first and stood up to some wild weather on a Pennine Way walk one April, my first walk longer than a weekend. As the 'II' suggests it was designed for two people. There was a smaller Backpacker I but I've always preferred roomy shelters and the weight of the II was hardly prohibitive for solo use.

The Backpacker tents tapered ridge design has remained a functional one every since and has been given a new lease of life with the popularity of trekking poles, which were unheard of when Bob Saunders came up with it. The tent I used on the Pacific Northwest Trail in 2010, over 30 years after my Pennine Way walk, was nearly identical to my old Backpacker II. Good designs remain good designs.

The Backpacker tents were made with polyurethane coated nylon that eventually stiffened and cracked, meaning tents had a relatively short life (it was far inferior to today's PU coated nylon but all that was available). Dissatisifed with this material Bob Saunders was on the look out for something better. He found it too. At a trade show sometime in the 1980s I remember him showing me some new tent material. "Go on, tear that", he said. I couldn't. He handed me a piece of heavier PU coated nylon. It tore easily. The new fabric was silicone nylon, then unknown to UK backpackers. Soon Bob had a range of tents made from this innovative new material, with the lighter Jetpacker replacing the Backpacker. The Jetpacker was his lightest tent but more popular was his roomy single hoop Spacepacker, the first single hoop design to appear. Silnylon tent fabrics and single hoop designs are common now. Back then they were revolutionary.

Through the 1970s and 80s Saunders was one of the names in lightweight tents. Bob also supported the then new Backpacker's Club, advertising regularly in the club journal and turning up at AGMs with a display of tents. He also founded the Saunders Lakeland Mountain Marathon, which I took part in several times in the 1980s and which is still run today.

Robert Saunders Tents ceased trading a few years ago. Now Robert himself has gone, at the grand old age of 82. His name and designs should live on in the history of backpacking and lightweight camping equipment. He really did make a difference.

I am pleased to see other reminiscences and obituaries elsewhere on the web - see My Outdoors, Outdoors Magic, The Outdoor Warehouse.

Innov-Ex 2012: A Belated Report

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:17:00 +0000

Design Award Winner Jenni Campbell

Disappearing off to Wales (of which more in a future post) after the Pertex sponsored Innov-Ex Conference means that it's a week since I left Lancaster with my head buzzing with ideas and thoughts. This conference on the outdoor industry is always interesting and stimulating, both in the formal talks and discussions and in the conversations over coffees, food and beers.

The speakers I'd been looking forward to didn't let me down. Don Gladstone of ExploreRED described his project to track the life of outdoor garments and to look at mechanisms for moving them on when they are either no longer needed or worn out, including the idea of a reuse initiative in outdoor stores so retailers could resell restored gear. Don also raised one of the dilemmas of consumerism and the environment. Making less stuff saves resources and energy and reduces pollution. But what happens to those people whose living depends on making that stuff?

Phil Sorrell of Social Hiking

The other talk I was particularly interested in was Phil Sorrell - Daylight Gambler - on Web Apps, the Outdoors & Social Media. Phil ran through the development of social media and looked at all the options available today - some of which I have to admit to never heard of before (bambusa, foursquare?) before going on to describe his own Social Hiking app. He also asked the audience which social media they used and virtually everybody was on Twitter and Facebook with slightly fewer on Google +. Appropriately several people, including myself, were tweeting during the conference using the hashtag Innov-Ex. Phil's talk was fascinating but I needn't describe it in any more detail here as he has put his presentation on his website here.

On the subject of Twitter Veronica Legg, in her interesting talk on designing outdoor clothing and the surveys she has undertaken to see what users want, said that it was useful for gaining information from expert users unlike Facebook. She talked of analyzing what people wanted as democratising innovation and pointed out that 50-70% of outdoor gear was designed by lead users.

Veronica Legg was the winner of the Innov-Ex Design Award back in 2010. This year's winner was Jenni Campbell, a graduate of Strathclyde University, for her Cleat Feet, a system by which a running shoe can be quickly converted into a cycling shoe, something very useful for adventure racers. I was one of the judges and we were impressed by the practicality of the product and the fact that it was a finished item and not just a prototype or an idea. I expect to hear more of Cleat Feat and Jenni Campbell. The formal announcement of the award is here.

Latest TGO - Delights of Camp Fires, Packing for Long Distance Walks, Compasses, Hiking Shirts, Montane Medusa 32 Pack

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:39:00 +0000

In the Teton National Forest on the Continental Divide Trail, 1985

The latest TGO is out. This is the extra issue for this year, called the Spring issue and sandwiched between the May and June issues. My Backpacking Column, called Dreaming the Fire, is about the joys of camp fires, from traditional ones in stone fire rings like that pictured to modern mini-ones contained in ultralight wood-burning stoves.

In gear I review a dozen hiking shirts and a half-dozen compasses and have a first look at the new Montane Medusa 32 pack (more than a first look really as I've been using it since last autumn). Elsewhere John Manning covers 12 two-person geodesic tents.

The theme of this issue is long-distance paths and in the Hill Skills section I've given some suggestions for packing for a long-distance walk. On the actual paths themselves Alf Alderson recommends ten sections of the new Wales Coast Path, Stephen Goodwin hikes the Hadrian's Wall Path and there's an overview of Britain's National Trails.

There's much more in this issue of course including Carey Davies visiting the Lake District for a scramble along Striding Edge and some dinghy sailing on Ullswater; Ed Byrne having fun with a food dehydrator; Judy Armstrong trekking across the Vanoise National Park; Emily Rodway meeting the Ramblers new boss Benedict Southworth; Cameron McNeish doing a circuit of the summits of Bidean nam Bian in Glencoe; Jim Perrin praising Howard Hill's Freedom to Roam; Kevin Walker looking at what to do when "navigationally challenged"; John White suggesting ways to predict the weather and guest columnist Simon Yates considering how modern communications have changed the experience of mountaineering.

Innovation for Extremes Conference 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 00:22:00 +0000

Innov-Ex organisers Mary Rose and Mike Parsons speaking at the 2011 event

Later today I'll be heading down to Lancaster for the 2012 Innovation for Extremes (Innov-Ex) conference, which looks at innovation and sustainability in the outdoors industry. For the third year running I'll be there as one of the judges of the Design Award. However I'll also have an opportunity to listen to the talks and I'm particularly looking forward to hearing Phil Sorrell of Social Hiking on web apps, the outdoors and social media and Don Gladstone of ExploreRED on recycling outdoor gear. Details of the conference with the full agenda can be found here. The conference is available on a live webstream for a £40 fee.

As well as the formal business much of the enjoyment and inspiration of the conference comes of course from meetings over meals and drinks, both with those I only meet at events like this and those I've never met before. I'm anticipating much information and stimulation from these as yet unknown conversations.

The Cairngorms Are Shining Tonight

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 17 Apr 2012 19:16:00 +0000

The Northern Cairngorms, 8.05 p.m, April 17, 2012

April Showers, April Snow

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 23:23:00 +0000

On the descent from Meall a'Bhuachaille

After the heat wave of March, the winter of April. Snow on the hills, frost in the glens, a chill in the air. This is how winter should be. The weather has turned and spring is on hold.

View down Ryvoan Pass to the Northern Cairngorms

Having a few hours to spare in Aviemore before a meeting I decided on a taste of the changed weather with an ascent of Meall a’Bhuachaille above Glenmore, a favourite walk that combines many of the features that make the Cairngorms so wonderful – ancient pine woods, a lovely lochan, a fine summit and a great sense of space – yet can be easily done in half a day. The frosty morning threatened fine weather with clear skies and touches of sunshine over Glenmore Forest, though the high tops of the Cairngorms were cloud-capped, just the ragged white edges protruding below the greyness showing the snow that had fallen overnight. As I admired the regenerating forest spreading up the slopes either side of An Lochan Uaine I knew that the forecast was for heavy wintry showers. The Green Lochan itself lived up to its name, glowing a rich green with the reflection of the pines on its shores. At one end a new construction – a wooden viewing platform on a steep slope with a pseudo-rustic bench and rail – was a jarring reminder of some people’s inability to leave nature alone. Why ever was this completely unnecessary edifice constructed here? I guess when the bright new wood weathers it will be less brash and obtrusive but that’s no justification.

An Lochan Uaine

Beyond the lochan the trees started to thin out and I could feel the chill edge of the north-east wind. By the time I was on the climb up Meall a’Bhuachaille the first slashes of sleet were whipping across my face. Soon the sleet turned to snow, great wet flakes driven sideways on the wind. Visibility shrank as I entered the cloud and I felt as though I was inside the storm. The summit cairn and stone windbreak was rapidly disappearing under the settling snow. I lingered briefly, wondering if this was a squall that would soon pass, but soon decided the dense cloud and icy blast was here to stay and skittered off down the slippery stones of the descent path. Below two hazy walkers were also making their way down. Beyond them a shining patch of lighter air was all that was visible of Loch Morlich.

The summit of Meall a'Bhuachaille

Back down at the forest’s edge it was still snowing, though I was out of the cloud. Glad of the shelter of the trees I walked back down to the glen floor, the snow soon changing to rain. Later in the afternoon a quick clearance showed the hills shining white with new snow, as wintry as they’ve looked all year.

And The Rain Came

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sun, 08 Apr 2012 22:05:00 +0000

Dusk at the First Camp

Following the sudden return to winter, (after which I went cross-country skiing from the front door for a few hours for only the second time this season), the weather forecast looked reasonable, predicting frosty nights and a mix of wintry showers and very clear air, especially in the west. Not having visited the North-West Highlands much since researching my book on the area (Guide to Walks in the North-West Highlands) I decided it was time to go back to this favourite area and in particular beautiful Loch Maree and the Letterewe hills.

Snow showers were still falling in Strathspey and some roads to the south and east were still blocked but the way west was open as I set off for Kinlochewe and the start of the walking. The western skies were bright too, luring me onwards away from the clouds and greyness. The hills around Loch Maree were snowy and shining in the late afternoon sun. The walk along on the northern shore of the loch, below the great walls of Slioch and with the sinking sun glowing on the water was magical. At the head of the loch the gorse was in brilliant flower, yellow and glorious. Wild goats browsed on the thorny bushes. I watched one large flock, noting how they munched for a few minutes, then lay chewing for a while and then ambled on to find another tasty-looking bush. Although I’d seen wild goats in this area before, most memorably high on Slioch when a pair had appeared ghost-like in the mist seconds after their pungent smell had warned me of their presence, I’d never seen this number before, some twenty-six in all.

Goats & Gorse

Wandering down the loch side I came upon several tempting camp sites. The evening was too wonderful to stop before dusk though and the sun was just touching the horizon when I finally pitched my shelter on a small knoll looking over the loch to the snowy crags of Meall Ghiubhais and the westernmost peaks of Beinn Eighe standing stark against the slowly darkening sky. An almost-full moon and the first stars were lighting the sky as I fell asleep, the temperature a touch below freezing.

Camp 1 Evening

Cold rain woke me about 4 a.m., blowing in the open tarp door. The wind had shifted 180 degrees. The temperature was +4°C. The hills were cloud-hidden. A brief excursion outside was needed to move the door to the other end of the shelter, away from the wind, then it was back to sleep, only to be woken after dawn by rain on my face again. The wind had moved back. The clouds were thicker and heavier, the rain stronger. I deliberated over a prolonged breakfast that ran into an early lunch. Walk out or walk on? I felt reluctant to depart. I was here now. I would continue, in the hope of better weather.

Camp 1 Morning

It was the afternoon of the next day when I arrived back at my car. It was still raining. I’d climbed one hill, camped in the remote wildness of the Letterewe Forest and hiked back over a pass to Loch Maree. And all the time it had rained. With rain and water all there was to see I noted the varieties of rain – fine and misty; thick, spattering globs; steady, driving sheets; insistent drizzle. New streams and waterfalls sprang up on the hillsides. Paths became rushing rivulets or long, muddy pools. Stream crossings became a problem. A couple of times I had to work a way upstream to find a safe-looking ford and then struggle knee-deep through the surging water. My second camp was near such a torrent, on slightly raised ground I hoped would be clear of any flooding. It was, just, with pools forming all around by dawn.

View from the tent, Camp 2, morning

Whilst the sunshine, clear views and snowy summits I’d hoped for had disappeared in the storm the wet weather was in its own way invigorating and exciting. The constant roar of the streams and rivers, the thrashing white cascades, the constantly shifting clouds – all spoke of a mobile, impermanent world and the amazing power of water to carve and shape the landscape.

The river in Srathan Buidhe

Fine Weather Faded, Spring On Hold

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 03 Apr 2012 01:17:00 +0000

Snow After Dark, April 2, 2012

The heat wave with its record temperatures, deep blue skies and dry air has slowly faded over the last few days, ending this evening with heavy snow falling. Winter has returned and the early signs of spring will need to be resilient to survive the cold and snow. A few days ago, as the sun hung on in a hazy sky, I explored the local woods in search of the first flowers and found primroses and lesser celandine, bright against the debris of the forest floor. Those flowers will be under snow now.

Primroses

Lesser Celandine

On Bynack More

A day later I headed out for what was intended as a last sunny and warm day in the hills before the weather returned to normal for the time of year. The clouds were thicker than forecast though and the wind stronger and colder. I wandered up Bynack More on the eastern edge of the Cairngorms. The gusty, skin-tingling west wind swept across the long north ridge and I dropped down to a path on the eastern side rather than following the crest. On the summit the wind was gusting to 36mph and the temperature was 7.5°C. Instead of sitting in the sunshine as I had five days earlier on Ben Macdui I sheltered behind one of the many rough granite boulders that decorate the top for a snack and a drink before heading back down out of the wind.

The next day light drizzle heralded the final end of the exceptional weather. Overnight the temperature fell to zero. Snow was forecast. And yesterday evening it came, at the time predicted, starting out fine and thin but soon turning heavy and wet as darkness fell. By midnight the snow lay thick and deep and it continued to fall. The change is abrupt, the sunshine and warmth of a week ago already a fading memory, a story to tell of March days that felt more like summer. Now we wait to see how long the new winter will last.

May TGO: Pacific Crest Trail, Bivi Bags, NeoAir Xlite, Tent Pegs, Green Outdoor Gear & Backpacking with Ed Byrne

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 14:16:00 +0000

At Campo on the Mexican border at the start of the Pacific Crest Trail

Ready for the snowbound High Sierra with 23 days supplies and snow and ice gear.

Volcanic country along the PCT in Oregon with Mount Washington in the background

Thirty years ago this April I set off on the Pacific Crest Trail, my first long distance walk outside the UK. It was to be a life-changing experience. In the May issue of TGO, just out, I describe my walk (briefly!) in my backpacking column. Just writing it up and looking at my old slides sent shivers down my spine. How exciting it was!

A rather different backpacking trip is described by Ed Byrne, who I took wild camping in Glen Feshie. I described this trip, without mentioning Ed, in my blog for March 1.

On gear I review a selection of bivi bags, try the new NeoAir XLite air mattress and answer a question on tent pegs while Judy Armstrong tries a dozen pairs of women’s 3-season boots and Daniel Neilson likes the Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody.

I also write about gear and the outdoor industry in general in a piece called The Green Outdoors in a special supplement, Tread Softly, about greener hillwalking. Elsewhere in this supplement there are pieces on caring for gear; reusing and recycling gear; key figures in the outdoors industry describing their work – Nick Brown of Nikwax/Paramo, Rohan co-founder Sarah Howcroft on her Recycle Outdoor Gear project and Debbie Luffman of Finisterre on Bowmont sheep (UK wool that could rival merino); suggestions for car-free walks and plane-free travel; leave no trace tips and Tanya Bascombe of the European Outdoor Conservation Association describing its work.

In the actual magazine itself the theme, as daylight hours grow, is big days out. Dan Bailey, who has a new book on the subject called Great Mountain Days in Scotland that looks good, describes ten big summit days in the Highlands; Tim Gent suggests a long peak-bagging walk on Dartmoor and Ronald Turnbull recommends the Caldew Circuit, a long walk over the Northern Fells including Blencathra and Skiddaw.

Away from the summits Cameron McNeish describes organising his own trek in the Himalayas; Daniel Neilson tries scrambling and climbing in Snowdonia and Jim Perrin write passionately about the Kinder Trespass on its eightieth anniversary and, in his Hillwalkers’ Library column, about a book I haven’t read, Jean Giono’s The Man Who Planted Trees, that sounds interesting. In the Hill Skills section Kevin Walker describes search techniques for finding an obstinately hidden objective; Tom Durham looks at how to deal with soft tissue injuries; Chris Highcock looks at why you get tired and what to do about it and Chris Fenn describes some delicious sounding and looking trail mix.

Note: the PCT pictures are scans from Kodachrome 64 slides taken with a Pentax ME Super SLR camera with 28mm and 50mm lenses.

The First Hills of Spring

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sun, 25 Mar 2012 01:08:00 +0000

The March equinox may mark the beginning of spring but it’s often hard to see much sign of change from winter in the Scottish Highlands. High in the hills the lengthening daylight hours are often the only indication that winter is fading. This year is different though, with warm sunshine, bright skies and vanishing snow making late March seem more like May. To celebrate the sunny weather and the turning of the year and unable to resist the clear views and blue sky I headed up into the high Cairngorms for the first summits and the first mountain camp of the spring. Wandering across the Cairngorm Plateau in thin summer shirt and trousers and mesh trail shoes and with sunscreen and sunglasses the most important items of equipment I found it hard to believe it was really this time of year, especially as the hills were golden brown in the sunlight with the last snow patches restricted to steep north and east facing slopes.

I crossed the bare, stony, snowfree summit of Ben Macdui then dropped down a few hundred metres to the nearest stream, fed by some big snow banks. Here I pitched my shelter, facing across stony slopes to the big, rounded summit of Cairn Gorm, where I had stood a few hours earlier. As the sun slid below the ridge above my camp the air began to cool and I felt the chill of the breeze sweeping down over the snow. The illusion of summer was quickly gone. High above the constellations appeared along with bright planets, the big disk of Jupiter dominant. The night was magnificent with the land a series of shadowed ridges and pale snow fields and the sky a brilliant mass of diamonds.

Dawn came with frost on the grass and thin slivers of ice on the edge of the stream. Far to the north-east a thin dark red line spread across the horizon. I photographed it from inside my shelter, my sleeping bag pulled up to my chest, with the tripod set up in the doorway while water came to a boil on the stove for the first warming drink of the day. Outside the sun crept down the snowfields, turning them faintly pink, then slid across the cold grass to finally light my camp. I always love this slow wakening of the natural world, this return of heat and life to the cold stillness of night. I wait for the sun to stir me before I stir. Then it is up and out into the bright air and away back up the hills with the joy of sunshine driving me on.

By the time I was back on the summit of Ben Macdui the sky was deep blue and the hills were shining and splendid. To the south and west I could see clouds though and a gradually spreading haze. The glory would not last. The wind was picking up too, a chilly wind that had me donning a windshirt. I dropped down into the great gash of the Lairig Ghru pass, admiring, as always, the dramatic mountain wall encircling the huge scoop of An Garbh Choire – the rough corrie. Crossing the stony heart of the pass beside the cold Pools of Dee I felt exhilarated and stimulated by the sparkling little streams that vanished into boulder heaps then suddenly bubbled up again, rippling and surging over the clean mica-speckled granite boulders. Two ptarmigan, wisely lying on a snow bank as their plumage was still winter white, gave themselves away by flying up loudly as I passed too close for their nerves to hold.

Leaving the straight cut of the pass I followed the recently built stone staircase path up to boggy moorland and then the boulder-filled chasm of the Chalamain Gap, in which narrow notch I met the first other walkers of the day, clambering over the rough boulders. Just a rough walk across heathery slopes and my spring journey was over.

Light & Water: A Walk At Findhorn

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Thu, 15 Mar 2012 00:59:00 +0000

The coast at Findhorn is a favourite place for a walk by the sea because of the ever-changing seascapes under huge spreading skies. Always present is a sense of the vastness of the world as the land, sea and sky vanishes into far distant horizons. On this latest visit, on a mild March day, the tide had just turned, leaving the first strip of firm, wet sand below the long strips of surf sorted pebbles Wind-ripped clouds spread over the sky, their ragged streaks a contrast to the ruler straight lines of the beach. The sea was visually calmer with gentle waves breaking weakly on the sand, their power ebbing as the tide drew back. This apparent serenity was broken by the roar of the waves, the dominant sound on a day with no screaming gulls and few other birds. Just one little dunlin racing on its clockwork legs away from the waves and a cormorant perched on a rotting post far out from the shore.

As we rounded the dunes into the mouth of Findhorn Bay the sea thunder began to fade and we heard another sound, the mournful, slightly eerie calls of seals, a large group of which we could see on the beach on the far side of the water. The water in the bay was still and quiet, little ripples washing over the pebbles at its edge. The sun was brighter here and other than the hint of chill in the brisk breeze it could have been summer.

The ravages of winter storms were visible though in the ragged remains of a windsock that stands atop the dunes on the headland between the sea and the bay. We had seen this many times over the years, always bright orange and solid. Today it was torn and faded and shredded.

Trailstar Wars

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:20:00 +0000

From left: Cricket, Cuben Fibre Trailstar, Silnylon Trailstar

Backpacking shelters can be curious things. Following my trials with Tony Hobbs' Cuben Fibre (CF) Mountain Laurel Designs Trailstar tarp (see posts for March 1 and 4) I was interested in seeing the silnylon version, especially as I couldn't pitch the CF one to look like the images I'd seen of it. Luckily, Colin Ibbotson who has a silnylon Trailstar was keen to see the CF version so we decided on a day walk together with shelter pitching at its heart.

On a pleasant, mild spring day we headed up the little hills above Grantown-on-Spey, wandering up nice little wooded dells then across some broken ground recently planted with saplings to a heathery summit with excellent views across Strathspey to the Cromdale Hills and the Cairngorms. Now we needed somewhere to pitch the shelters. So far the ground was all too steep, too boggy, too tussocky or too wooded. We headed down to a little burn but the main result was wet feet as the land was saturated. Further down the glen we finally found some rough pasture that was suitable for pitching the Trailstars.

The results were interesting and to me quite surprising as we found it impossible to pitch them the same way even though the only difference is the fabric. It soon became clear the silnylon version is more functional, more versatile and easier to pitch. Initially we pitched them both with 120cm poles. The edges of the silnylon one were down to the ground, the CF edges were high above the ground - so any wind would blow straight in. Later Colin tried pitching the CF one down to the ground. It proved possible - as long as you were happy with a door that was a tall, narrow slit with almost vertical side walls that would catch the wind. Pitching it with a sensible door like the silnylon one is impossible. Next I pitched the CF with a 100cm pole. With this the edges will go down to the ground. However the door is still quite tall with side panels that would catch the wind if it came from the side and a big entrance that let in rain if it came from the front. Pitching it with a low protective door, as is easy with the silnylon Trailstar, wasn't possible.

My conclusion is that the silnylon Trailstar is a superb shelter but that the CF one, whilst pretty good in some respects and certainly much lighter weight, has some flaws that would prevent me choosing it.

Colin also brought a Mountain Laurel Designs CF Cricket shelter, which has a fixed shape. This looks excellent for sheltered sites - it would have been fine on the Pacific Northwest Trail - and shows that with some designs CF can be pitched quickly and tightly. Talking it over we decided that CF is best for fixed shaped shelters or flat tarps but that for flexible shaped ones like the Trailstar the complete lack of stretch makes it unsuitable.

Update: following comments and requests I'd like to make it clear that I'm judging the two Trailstars on suitability for UK wild camping, and anywhere else where exposed sites and stormy weather are expected, as I think this is the big strong point for the Trailstar design.

From left: Cricket, Cuben Fibre Trailstar, Silnylon Trailstar

Tarp pitching practise over we ambled back down the glen to Grantown-on-Spey, pausing to wonder at the stupidity of a pheasant that thought crouching down in a ditch made it invisible, admiring a heron flapping slowly overhead and being entertained by a mass of toads on the track, many of them mating, and all heading for an unsavoury looking dark and reedy pool, which I guess I'd find attractive if I was a toad.

April TGO: GPS, Altimeter & Waterproof Reviews, Camping in Stormy Weather, Cloud Inversions & A Competition for My 'Scotland' Book

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Sat, 10 Mar 2012 20:58:00 +0000

View Over A Cloud Inversion To The Mamores From Ben Nevis

The April issue of TGO is out now. I seem to have a great deal in it! In the Gear section my main review is of 8 GPS units. There's also a review of the Suunto Core altimeter watch while in the Almanac section I have a First Look at the ultralight Montane Minimus waterproof jacket. My Hill Skills piece is on camping in stormy weather, something I've been able to practice rather too often in recent months, while my Backpacking Column is on cloud inversions and other cloud and mist magical phenomena, something I've not experienced enough of recently with the cloud staying firmly clamped on the summits. Finally there's a competition to win a signed copy of my Scotland book.

There's plenty more in the magazine of course, including Ronald Turnbull on the attractions of Cumbria outside of the Lake District; Ed Byrne trying ski mountaineering on Ben Lawers; Andrew Mazibrada hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc; Cameron McNeish climbing two marvellous Munros: Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgor Ruadh; a photo essay by Adrian Hendroff on Celtic Twilights with some lovely rich light; Carey Davies visiting the Tan Hill Inn (and doing some walking in the Pennines); Andrew Galloway bothying below Arenig Fawr and contemplating this less visited peak; Jim Perrin praising Eric Shipton's Nanda Devi; Kevin Walker suggesting some navigation games; questions answered on drinking water from streams and lakes and personal locator beacons; Chris Fenn's advice on planning meals for hillwalking; John Manning's review of 16 30-litre daypacks and Tristan Gooley on becoming a "natural explorer" (I'm reading his book of that title at present - review to come).

Harvey British Mountain Map Schiehallion, Ben Lawers & Glen Lyon Review

noreply@blogger.com (Chris Townsend) — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 00:19:00 +0000

This morning in the post I found the latest map in Harvey's excellent 1:40,000 British Mountain Map series. Designed specifically for climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers these maps are printed on waterproof polyethylene so no map case is required. This material is really tough and long lasting and easily withstands the worst Scottish weather. This new map covers the area bounded by Bridge of Orchy in the west, Loch Rannoch in the north and Loch Tay in the south and east. There are 26 Munros on the main map, though three are close to the bottom edge so routes from the south are not shown. On the reverse side is a smaller map covering Ben Chonzie. Fifteen Corbetts are also highlighted. There are topos of five crags showing rock climbing routes with grades too. The map is easy to read and names gullies and crags not marked on other maps.

On the back of the main map there is a geological map and information on geology and the landscape plus information on Maskelyne's 1774 Schiehallion experiment to measure the density of the earth and the invention of contour lines, important ever since for mountaineers and hikers; map and compass use; access advice; and first aid basics and emergency procedures. There's also details of the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and the British Mountaineering Council, with whom Harveys has produced the map, along with the British Geological Survey. The map can be bought from the MCofS or the BMC with any profits used to fund their work programmes.

This is a lovely map that has made me itch to visit this area again, if only so I can use it in the field. If you're visiting the area or just love maps it's highly recommended.