ChristianHiker

winter snowshoes

2017-09-03T07:01:00.000-07:00

Snowshoeing in Virginia

Snowshoeing can be fun and be a way to get outside and enjoy hiking in the winter time. Snowshoes can make backpacking a safer way to walk in deep snow. I have backpacked in a deep twenty inch snow without snowshoes and I was exhausted after three miles on the Appalachian Trail. It snowed this past week with a twelve inch snow and I have been practicing walking in my new snowshoes.

Equipment

A good pair of high gators should be worn to help keep the snow and debris from getting into your boots.

A pair of trekking poles. Trekking poles will help you balance when you walk.

A pair of high top hiking boots will keep your socks dry and a pair of smart wool socks will keep your feet from getting cold.

The snowshoe should be lightweight and made of a strong metal/plastic design. The snowshoes should not be too big and fit snug around your boot. The frame should be made of an aluminum tubing. Crampons on the bottom of the shoe should be made of a strong steel. All front straps should be a fiber composition whereas the heel strap should be a flexible material. Most snowshoes are designed for a left or a right foot. I bought
Atlas snowshoes and have walked around my home to get used to hiking in deep snow.

Snowshoe use

When wearing snowshoes you should try to keep your weight centrally located above the shoe, especially when walking down hill. Try not to lean back when going downhill, leaning back will create a snowboarding effect and you will lose your traction. Try to keep the space between each foot wider than your normal walk. This will keep you from walking on the other shoe. You will have to raise your foot a little higher than you normally walk. Remember that it will be harder to make sharp turns and you will have to plan each turn ahead of the time to turn. Most snowshoes have quick release straps so you can easily slip your foot out of the shoe if you step in a deep hole or crevasse. Snowshoes are designed to aid you in walking in deep snow. Walking in deep snow can be exhausting and cause you to over heat and possibly get hypothermia and possibly die.

AOK

2017-06-30T11:07:00.000-07:00

WHAT IS THE RIGHT CHOICE OF GEAR FOR YOU?

SOLID FUEL/WOOD BURNING BACKPACKING STOVES

The Bushbuddy wood burning stove is a double-walled heat-shielded backpacking stove. There are several other stoves that look very similar and perform in the same way as this stove. There is even a do-it-yourself version that you can make at home. The concept is simple in that there are holes at the bottom of the cylinder to let in needed air for combustion and the heat and gasses excape out the top heating the container on top. A wind shield is needed to contain the burning action and to keep an even flow of warm air up the can. I have found that the average time to boil a liter of water is about ten minutes. The stove weighs around five ounces or 141.7 grams. With the addition of a fuel container when wood is wet you may burn an esbit tablet to heat your water.

Bushbuddy Wood Burning Stove

Esbit solid fuel container

Four Dog Woodburning Stove

The Four Dog woodburning stove is a very small one

pieced self contained stove. It has four metal wedges

welded onto the top of the rim to hold a small pot of

less than one liter. The supply air enters from the side

holes crosses over a twisted pie shaped disk to the pot.

The pot is made of titanium metal. The time to boil

a pot of water is approximately eight to ten minutes.

The stove weighs 62 grams or 2.2 ounce.

Kelly Kettle Wood Burning Stove

Esbit Woodburning Stove

DETAILS

Treeline to the top of Mt.Katahdin

2017-05-12T05:24:00.000-07:00

Treeline to the top of Mt. Katahdin
(Part 3)

The Appalachian Trail going to the top of Mt. Katahdin in Baxter State Park is called Hunt Trail. The weather on the trail to the top of Mt. Katahdin may quickly change from a warm sunny, to a cool, cloudy, and windy day. The day we hiked up the mountain it was cool with winds up to forty miles per hour. The day before it had been raining with zero visibility. This day it was clear with a low lying haze that reached across the low lands. At times we could see many small lakes scattered across the plain. As I hiked I tired, and I wished I could be fishing in one of those lakes instead of climbing over boulders.

As you watch the video notice the smaller evergreen trees as they give rise to their smaller shrub like-cousins. The boulders are coated with algae and some lichen making it harder to use as hand holds. We used the trekking poles as an extra boost to pull each other up the rocks. Listen to the wind as it blows across the camera microphone. A low flying airplane passed across our field of view. In some spots we allowed several hikers to squeeze by us on the thin ledges, trying not to loose our grip. Many of the granite boulders are very loose, and we had to take special care not to fall off the ledges. At times the white trail blaze markers seem to go straight up the fifteen-foot boulders. Along one section of the trail there are monkey bars anchored into the boulders.

The famous trail challenge is to ascend the boulders by way of the monkey bars. The monkey bars are two one inch diameter bars mounted in granite boulders. The idea is to climb the boulders stepping on the two monkey bars, one of which was broken and only a stub, like a ladder up the ninety-degree slope. This is an impossible feat, except if you are like me and have bad knees that will not bend to allow climbing the ladder. A woman hiker volunteered to pull me up by my pack from above, while another hiker pushed me up from below. I managed to clear the monkey bars for the next part of the trail.

A good pair of hiking boots was a necessity to climb the boulders. Our cheap box store trekking poles managed to last the entire climb without breaking. Leather gloves are a necessity climbing over the rough surfaces of the weathered boulders. Without gloves your hands become worn raw from the small-pocketed depressions in the boulders. The Appalachian Trail white blazes mark almost impossible routes up the ten to twelve foot boulders. It was great to have someone to help me up the fractured rocks. One slip, and over the side of the mountain you could go.

The winds blowing up to forty miles an hour made the climb more of a challenge. The trail was very narrow, and passing hikers made the trail even more difficult to navigate. Closer to the top I could see for miles on a clear day.

Algae and other microscopic life live in the pocked spaces of the rocks, make climbing a little more difficult for gaining hand holds. People of all lands come to Maine to hike Mt. Katahdin and we met many who could not speak English. The winds got stronger the higher we hiked, and often at times the only way was straight up the boulder shelf.

Very close to the top of the mountain is a flat area called the Table Lands. This is the point to which Henry David Thoreau climbed the mountain. The trail is roped off in an effort to protect the fragile, flattened ecosystem of the table lands. After about a half mile the trail ascends the mountain to the top. A sign at the top announces that you have achieved the goal. A drink of Gatorade was a refreshing gift after the long climb.

I felt like one tired, older guy making it to the top with not much energy to spare. We took a different trail down the mountain. That trail called the Abol Trail had just been rerouted and was much steeper and harder to climb due to the many rock slides that had occurred previously. We were so glad that we had been required by park rangers to take head lamps on the trail because we returned back to camp well after night fall.

It was a hard climb, but I was so glad to finish the hike. Not many people my age hike, and even fewer ever get a chance to go to the top of Maine's highest mountain, Mt. Katahdin. I would not have been able to make it without the help of my son-in-law pulling me up the boulders. I am thankful that the Lord gave me the strength to be able to complete the hike with the help of my caring son-in-law.

I considered the hike a challenge because of my desire to hike the ending point of the Appalachian Trail, despite the tough terrain.

James 1:2-3 "Consider it pure joy, my brothers, whenever you face trails of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith develops perseverance."

Katahdin to the Treeline

2017-04-09T04:27:00.000-07:00

Hiking from Katahdin River Falls to the Tree Line (Part 2).

Hike Planning and Preparation

Our hiking equipment consisted of a day backpack, hat, two base-layer shirts, two mid-layer shirts, two mid-weight hiking pants, a light weight rain coat, a low to mid-cut pair of hiking boots, two pair of wool socks, synthetic underwear, two one-liter water bottles, a two liter inside pack water bladder, gloves, snacks, neckerchief, suntan lotion, two trekking poles, tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, mini-stove, fuel, spoon, matches, dehydrated food, and water. We had to purchase the stove fuel and trekking poles in Bangor, Maine. The poles would not fit in our luggage, and the fuel is not allowed on the plane. It was easy to find the fuel, but we had a hard time finding four trekking poles. After several hours we managed to find three red-colored inexpensive poles, and one blue good quality pole which we left for the motel maid. My son-in-law also carried a folding chair to sit and to relax in on top of the mountain.

The Hike

The Appalachian Trail, leading up to Baxter Peak--the top of Mount Katahdin from the Katahdin Stream Campground--is called the Hunt Trail. The trail takes eight to ten hours round-trip depending on ability. The trail is considered very strenuous. The beginning mile and a half is not very steep. Once the tree line is reached, the trail is made up of all large boulders. As you hike up the trail let your senses take over and take the time to drink in the beauty of God's creation. Notice that the path is no longer covered with two to three inches of sand but is mixed with larger rocks with an occasional series of granite rock steps. There are many downed smaller trees mainly consisting of hardwoods. The rocks are very irregular and fractured, making it easy to twist an ankle or knee. The smaller trees form a dense fortress that is a natural barrier to keep the hiker on the trail. There is no cell phone reception.

The rocks became more plentiful the higher we climbed up the mountain. The rocks are covered with moss and lichen, a natural process of decay. Notice you do not see many larger trees because this area has been logged years ago before it became a state park.

The trail crosses the Katahdin Stream by a wobbly wooden bridge with no railings. The stream is fed by mountain springs and snow melt from the top. It is very cold, and you can only keep your feet in the water a very few minutes without freezing them.
The trail has a diverse population of moose, black bear, and white-tailed deer. The wooded areas of the park support bobcats, fishers, martens, weasels, chipmunks, red squirrels, snowshoe hares, coyotes, lemmings, and red foxes. The most common birds are warblers, thrushes, flycatchers, owls, hawks, eagles, and ducks.

Larger and larger boulders replace the smaller basketball sized rocks. The trail is marked by the familiar white blaze marking the path of the Appalachian Trail. The higher we hiked the fewer large trees were found, and the white blazes were painted on rocks rather than the trees. The trail continues to follow Katahdin Stream as we ascended the mountain.
There is no electricity, running water, or paved roads in Baxter Park. The "Forever Wild" philosophy is maintained all along the trail.

Just slightly over a mile on the trail and off to the left is Katahdin Stream falls. It is exciting to see large amounts of water cascading down the mountain side. The Mount Katahdin was formed by granite intrusion weathered to the outside surface. The plants and animals are typical of those found in northern New England. Beside the igneous rock there are outcrops of sedimentary rocks. The sedimentary rock weather to form beds of sand along the trail.

Small to medium-sized boulders cover the path along the trail as if cut from larger boulders and hand-placed. The trees on both sides of the trail are much smaller and have changed in diversity from hardwoods to evergreen species.

The trail gets wider the higher in altitude you climb, and almost all of the larger trees are gone. When we hiked, the air temperature rose from forty to fifty degrees in three miles. My camera lens fogged from the air moisture of the rain the day before and the temperature change. The lower elevations give rise to hardwood tree species of red maple, sugar maple, yellow birch, paper birch, American beech, white ash, black ash, big tooth aspen, and quaking aspen.

The closer to the top the larger the boulders and warmer the temperatures are. The higher elevations give rise to balsam fir, tamarack, white spruce, black spruce, red pine, white pine, northern white-cedar, and eastern hemlock.

Thousands of years ago the Lauren Tide Ice sheet melted northward in New England, creating large boulder slides. The next 1,000 years time period brought about the emergence of the existing growth forest.
Trekking poles were used to help lift me from one big boulder to the next. I lost all cartilage in both knees about 20 years ago and cannot bend my knees more than half way. I can still hike with the aid of trekking poles and a strong son-in-law.
Next months blog will cover part three of the hike from the tree-line to the top of Mount Katahdin.

Isaiah 55:12, - "For ye shall go out with joy, and be led forth with peace: the mountains and the hills shall break forth before you into singing, and all the trees of the field shall clap their hands."

The Beginning of Hike

2017-03-01T09:17:00.000-08:00

Mount Katahdin: The Northern Terminus of The Appalachian Trail (Part I)

The Appalachian Trail is approximately 2,100 miles long along the eastern portion of the United States. Depending on which direction one starts, the trail either begins or ends in the state of Maine. At an elevation of 5,268 feet above sea level, Baxter Peak on Mount Katahdin is the highest mountain point in Maine. The climb to the top is 4,200 feet in 5 miles with most of the trail above the treeline. The mountain is one of the main attractions in Baxter State Park, a private/public park in Maine.

Elevation Map of the Trail

Mount Katahdin is a massive gray granite monolith, formed from a central Maine forest surrounded by many lakes. The native Americans called the mountain "Kette-Adene," the greatest mountain, and worshiped it. Thousands of years ago the continental glacier planed off the top of the mountain leaving the flat table lands rising to the south, now called the "table lands." The vegetation on top of the mountain was formed by glaciers, and above the 3,000 feet elevation the vegetation is like that in the Canadian tundra, in Greenland, and northern Labrador.

In 1846 Henry David Thoreau ascended to the table lands where he found deep thick clouds and other objects that obscured his view. The weather on top can change at a moment's notice, and high winds may reach 50 miles per hour, therefore, hiking to the top is discouraged. The 5.2 mile trip to the top takes approximately 5 hours, and the return trip will take about the same time. Every hiker must register at the beginning of the hike and sign in at the finish. Everyone must carry a flash light in case they return after dark.

My Adventure

My son-in-law and I started our adventure in late August with a flight to Bangor, Maine by way of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. We rented a car and drove 72 miles to Millinocket, Maine, followed another 8 miles to Baxter State Park and again an 8 mile drive to Katahdin Stream Camp Grounds. We rented a lean-to, a four person three-sided building, for two nights.

The first day was rainy with 50 plus mile an hour winds on top of Katahdin Mountain. We opted to postpone our hike to the top and instead hiked the Appalachian Trail around the camp. The second day the rain stopped, and the winds dropped to 40 miles per hour. The weather on top of the mountain is very unpredictable, and one can never be sure if the mountain can be climbed on any particular day. I had talked with many people who had been very disappointed that they could not complete their hike as planned due to extreme winds, poor visibility and slippery conditions. The day we hiked the mountain it was 75 degrees, and sunny with winds around 30 to 40 MPH. The story of our hike will be divided into three blogs. The first blog will cover the hike from the camp site to the treeline. The second from the treeline to the Table Lands, and the third from the table lands to the top of the mountain.

Katahdin Stream Campsite to the Treeline

The Appalachian Trail led past our lean-to, and we thought that was a sign this trip was going to be an easy hike. We said our prayers and asked God to help us with a safe and secure hike. The path was sandy and several feet wide. After signing the journal at the trail head we turned our head lamps on and began the hike at 6:30 AM. In order to hike this trail one must sign in and carry a head lamp. The park rangers advised us that the round trip hike may take from 10 to 12 hours. We planned to finish the hike around 4 PM; followed by a drive back to Bangor and the flight back home. Often times plans do not go as expected.

The trail was covered with several inches of fine sand. Great forces of wind, flowing water, freezing and thawing, and rocks sliding over one another cause erosion to occur and sand to be formed. Walking was easy and good to the knees, but that did not last long. The sandy trail gave rise to cobble-sized rock and then to small boulders. The trees were small in diameter and consisted mostly of aspen and birch. It appeared that most of this area had been logged probably before the land was donated as a park. We saw evidence of this driving from Bangor to Millinocket when we passed a huge lumber mill the size of a small city. The hike was approximately 5.2 miles to the top and another 5.2 miles in return. There are less steep trails to the top on the back side of Katahdin Mountain, but they are not part of the Appalachian Trail. The trail climbs 5,000 feet in elevation in 5 miles. The tree line ends after traveling 1 mile, and at this point there are no water and bathroom facilities. The park advises all hikers to carry 3 to 4 liters of water. There is a large area near the top called the Table Lands that is an environmentally protected area, and cannot walk out of the 1 foot wide trail range.

The following video documents the beginning of our hike. It is almost dark, and you can hear the Katahdin Stream as it flows beside the trail for the first mile of the hike.

Psalm 17:5 (NIV) - My steps have held to your paths;
my feet have not stumbled.

2017-02-17T06:46:00.001-08:00

Hiking and Backpacking In The Golden Years

As I age my outlook on life changes from personal achievements and accomplishments to just enjoying everyday life. Every morning I wake up and thank God that Iam able see another day and experience the new events He has in store for me. I feel very grateful for each day on earth to experience family fun and to enjoy God's creation. Camping, hiking, and backpacking are some simple ways to see God's natural plan. I have learned never to take life for granted and always keep my eyes on Jesus.

I have been hiking and backpacking for the past thirty years and have enjoyed many unique experiences. There have been some great encounters with other hikers and wild animals along the trails. I realize that I am among some of the most privileged people on earth. The majority of men my age are not physically or financially able to hike.

I grew up in a log cabin on fifteen acres of hardwood forest, my home was at one time used during the Civil War as a hospital . We had no running water, no electricity, and no central heating. My dad installed electricity and modernized the exterior with siding. A spring supplied us with fresh water, and a pot bellied stove heated the cabin. The outdoors was my play ground. I never lost that love for the outdoors.

It is such a great feeling to go backpacking and relive those experiences. Backpacking consists of carrying shelter, food, water, clothes, ground cover, and sleeping materials all in your pack. A typical backpack weight may range from twenty to sixty pounds. It is exciting to know that when I hike I am carrying everything I need to survive in the outdoors. It has become an art to select the lightest and best equipment as well the most comfortable clothes for all kinds of weather. Every backpacking adventure is different no matter how many times I hike the same trail. God always shows me something I had not seen before.

In my next series of blogs I will share my experience hiking to the top of Mt. Katahdin, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail in Baxter Park.

What's next?
In the next series of pod casts I will be discussing my hike to the top of Katahdin Mountain in Maine.

Tech Notes: In future pod casts I will be reviewing equioment to take on a backpacking trip.

2015-12-12T05:48:00.000-08:00

Appalachian Trail (AT) in the Winter in Central Virginia

Several times a year a group of Christian friends from nearby churches go on a backpacking adventure. A few of the men want to complete the Virginia portion of the AT, while others like me just want to bask in the beauty of God's creation. The miracle of God's divine design in every plant and animal living along the trail makes me want to loudly sing with joy like Julie Andrews in the Sound of Music. But if I want to see any wildlife at all I try to keep my singing to a whisper.

Our backpacking trip began on the AT just north of the Apple Orchard Falls Trail and ended crossing the James River, a distance of approximately fifteen miles. At the beginning of the hike along Thunder Hill a German balloonist crashed his balloon while in an international race in 1928. We camped at the halfway mark at Marble Springs, a spot where an old shelter had once been located. Our water supply was a spring located a few hundred yards down the mountain.
The first day we passed through portions of the 2,344 acre Thunder Ridge Wilderness. Just before Marble Springs the trail passed through Petites Gap named after John Poteet a settler in 1740. Between 1850 and 1875 the lower forested area was harvested and the wood used to generate charcoal for the production of pig iron. Much of the rock in the area consists of hard, granite-like, igneous rocks. Years of continued erosion has produced a form of very fertile soils as evidenced by the luxuriant trees and thickets of mountain laurels and rhododendrons. From a distance along Arnold Valley you can see the Devil's Marble yard, an eight-acre field of fractured quartzite metamorphic rocks that contain fossil wormholes.
The second day we crossed through a gap known by locals as Archie's Notch named after Archibald "Bear" Tolley, a well known bear hunter. Another area we crossed was Highcock Knob, named after a man who owned a cabin nearby and two roosters that would go high on an oak tree and that area became known as "High Cock Knob."
At the conclusion of the hike we crossed the James River. The James River is estimated to be 160 million years old and the longest waterway in Virginia, flowing 450 miles from the Allegheny Mountains to the Chesapeake Bay. The river is crossed by a 625 foot long foot bridge constructed in 2000 on piers from a 1881 railroad bridge.

An Appalachian Trail marker along the Blue ridge Parkway at mile post 76.3.

Along the trail there are many switch backs indicated by a double white blaze marker.

Coyotes have become very common along the trail and leave scat filled with rabbit and squirrel hair.

The night time temperatures in December are in the 20's, creating heavy frost along the trail in the morning.

In many areas the trail is marked with posted signs instead of white blazes to help preserve the natural feel of the surrounding wilderness.

The James River can be seen from the top of the ridge covered with a freezing fog.

James River Foot Bridge is 625 foot long.

The foot bridge was constructed on old train trestle pilings.

Isaiah 2:3 "And many people shall go and say, Come ye, and let us go up to the mountain of the Lord, to the house of the God of Jacob; and he will teach us of his ways, and we will walk in his paths; ..........."

2015-12-01T08:07:00.000-08:00

Appalachian Trail Wild Flowers and Selected Plants

There are many plants found on and around the Appalachian Trail. The following photos are a small representative of them. Because of the ecology, the trail may be considered a deciduous tree forest. There are many insects and birds that aid in the production of plant species. For example, bees and other flying insects help pollinate flowers and, many birds eat the plant seeds in one area and later "poop out" in another area.

This flower, known as Smooth Gerardia, Gerard laevigata, is found in dry woods among oak trees, usually from July to September. It is a bright yellow funnel or bell shaped flower about one to one and a half inches long. It is called "false yellow foxglove" and it is fairly common in the southern mountains.

The Spring Beauty . Clayton Virginica, has white to pink flowers with deeper pink veins. These flowers are first to show up during the spring and only last for about three days. Deer and moose as well as chipmunks, mice, and people have found the roots to be quite delectable and nutritious. When eaten raw the roots taste like radishes and when cooked taste like potatoes.

Chinese clover, Sericea lesoedeza, is a perennial legume. It is herbaceous with a woody stem. A small cluster of flowers is located on a branched stem, on the average it grows with a three feet tall stem surrounded by small leaflets. It flowers from July to October and is used for erosion control and feed.

Although hardwoods predominate the trail one will also see evergreens of pines growing in the background. The white pine, Pinus strobes, has needles for leaves clustered in bundles of five, shaped like a "W." It grows in dry, higher elevations and rocky ridges.

The Virginia pine, Pinus virginiana, is found in large numbers in the upper Coastal Plain and hilly areas of Virginia and surrounding states. The needles grow in bundles of two and form a "V." They vary from one and a half to three inches in length.

The sugar maple, Acer saccharin, is often called the sugar tree and is found in the cool slopes in the mountains. It is usually a slow growing tree forming a dense crown for heavy shade. The leaves are three to five inches across, pointed and with sparsely toothed lobes. These leaves are responsible for the bright red colors in the fall.

Mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia,is found in the wooded areas around rocky or sandy soils from New Brunswick to Ontario and south to Florida and Louisiana. It has a very beautiful flower but is poisonous and should not be used for cooking. It grows three to fifteen feet high.

Hair cap moss, Polatrichum commune, gets its name from hairs that cover a cap where each spore case is held. It has a star shaped appearance because of the way the leaves are shaped on the stem. It grows four to twenty centimeters tall. The average life span is five years. It lives in lightly shaded areas with moist acidic soil and sometimes in full sunlight. It grows wild from granite outcropping to the coastal plain. It is used by some people to make a tea to dissolve kidney and gall bladder stones. It is also believed by some to be good for the hair as a rinse to straighten hair. In the past it has been woven to make baskets.

Wild geranium, Geranium maculatum, has lavender flowers with five petals (sepals) with deeply forked leaves. It can be found in wood thickets and meadows. It flowers April through June.

The fire pink, Silene virginica, has bright red long-stalked flowers in loose clusters at the top of a slender stem. The flowers have five petals that bloom in April through June. A common name is catch fly because of the sticky hairs that trap insects.

The rue anemone, Anemonella thalictroides, flower has three leaves, each with three lobes, that form a whorl on the stem below the flower cluster of this six to eight inches plant. The flowers are white to pinkish with five to ten petal-like sepals. The flowers bloom from April through June. It is found in open wooded areas.

The large-flowered trillium, Trillium grandiflorum, grows eight inches to eighteen inches tall. The color of the flowers ranges from white to deep pink. It grows in rich foods and often in coves and on slopes. The trillium goes through a long process to bloom. The flower becomes pollinated and develops a berrylike fruit. The seeds inside the fruit enlarge, and the fruit breaks open and fall to the ground on fertile soil. The seeds are carried underground by ants where they spend two years, and then they break the surface and continue to grow for four more years developing leaves. After a minimum of six years from the time the seeds touched the ground, a blossom will appear and the plant will continue to produce flowers for many seasons. It blooms April through June.

White snakeroot, Eupatorium rugosum, has heart-shaped or triangular leaves and is very common in rich woodlands at high altitudes with snow-white flowers clustering August and September. The plant has coarsely toothed-shaped leaves on a slender stem. There have been some fatal cases of "milk-sickness" in man and cows that have been traced to the use of milk from cows that had eaten white snake.

The small flowers on the white aster, Aster vimineus, are August through October in dry to moist fields and meadows to shores. It grows two to five feet tall. The flower head is about a third inch wide and is arrayed in groups of fifteen to thirty.

Lady's thumb, Polygonum persicaria, is made up of dense erect, oblong or cylindrical spikes of small pink or purplish flowers at the tops of simple stems. The flower clusters are four mm long to two inches long. There are no petals but the sepals are four to six and colored. The fruit are seed like and glossy black. It flowers in June through October alongside roads, damp clearings, and cultivated ground.

Tall bellflower, Campanula americana, has a stem one to four feet in length. The one inch flower has five light blue petals in a star shaped pattern. It flowers June through September. It is found in moist woods and on open slopes off the Blue Ridge Parkway and in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Crested dwarf iris, Iris cristata, was named by the Greeks for their goddess of the rainbow. It prefers wooded slopes and ravines. The pale to deep purple flowers are divided into parts. The three petals are narrow and arching, and the three petal-like sepals are broader, curved downward. It is streaked with purple and are crested with white to yellow ridges. It blooms from April to May.

Pale jewel weed, Impatiens pallia, flowers are a yellow coloration and side-turned sepal spur divided into two parts. Because of its fruit it is also called snapweed and touch-me-not. The seeds mature inside a coiled capsule and when ripe explode out of the capsule when touched. Some people believe the sap of this plant will ease poison ivy itch. It is found in moist woods, gaps, and coves. It blooms from June through September.

Rock tripe lichen, is found growing on the rocks throughout the trail. Lichen is a combination of an algae and a fungus. The fungus aids in anchoring the algae to the rock and the algae helps provide nourishment for the fungus. In a survival situation you can eat the lichen after a series of boiling and water changing. It might be a little on the chewy side.

Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis, is usually two to eight inches tall, with one leaf usually folded around the stem. The majority of the plant is found underground, and that is why it is called bloodroot. The plant may be poisonous if eaten. It is a skin irritant to some people.

Sassafras, Sassafras albidium, is a small aromatic tree usually not over forty feet in height an a foot in diameter. It is common in dry soils and is the first to repopulate abandoned fields. The seeds are spread by birds. There are three different leaves on the tree -- a three lobed, single lobed, and a dual lobed. The wood was originally used for posts, rails, and boat-building.The oil from the bark and roots was used to flavor candles.

The mountain maple is really an ash tree but the leaves resemble a large maple leaf. It was originally classified as a maple but later reclassified as an ash. It is very unique because it has long longitudinal white stripes leading up the plant stem. You may see this tree often along the trail.

The galax, Galax aphylla, is ten to twenty-four inches tall with heart-shaped shiny leaves. It is found June through July, but you have to be very observant to find it along the trail. It may be found in open woods and rocky slopes.

The tulip poplar, Liriodendron tulipifera, is better known as the tulip tree or yellow poplar. It has a yellowish flower as well as the heartwood of the tree. It is one of the largest and most valuable hardwood trees. It grows in deep moist soils usually along streams and the lower mountain coves. Trees may grow from sixty to one hundred feet tall and three to four feet in diameter. Bees are known to make honey from their very large flowers. The wood is cut into lumber and used for veneers and furniture.

Ferns like the Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides, grow to a height of one to two feet and spread one to two feet. They are non-flowering and grow in part shade to full sun. The soils may have dry to medium water content. The leaves are long green blades with many leaflets shaped like Santa's boots. This is one of the only plants that tolerate rabbit, deer, drought, heavy shade, erosion, and shallow rocky soils.

Poison ivy, Toxicodendron radicals, leaves are all in groups of three on the stem or vine. The leaves are often shiny and green, the vines are covered with hairs. They bloom in May through June. All parts of the plant are poisonous and touching causes severe, weeping rashes on people who are sensitive to the plant oils.

Fringed polygala or gaywings, Polygala paucifolia, with three-quarter inch reddish or purple flower has a center tube and two tubes perpendicular to the center tube. It blooms in April through June. They thrive in woods with acid soils and small colonies up to elevations of 2,500 feet. These flowers were once considered as members of the milk wort family and believed to be able to stimulate the increase of milk in cows, hence the scientific Greek name poly and gala or much milk.

Jerusalem artichoke, Helianthus tuberosus, the toothed egg-shaped upper leaves are alternate and the lower leaves are opposite on the stem. The flower is yellow and blooms in August thru October. The plant does not come from Jerusalem and is not in the artichoke family. The Native Americans and colonists ate the tuber of this plant, it sometimes can be found in supermarkets.

The red maple, Acer rubrum, is a medium sized tree--quick growing and relatively short--lived. It is used as a shade tree but is inferior to other maple trees. The bark is smooth and light to dark gray in color. The normally green leaves turn bright red in the fall. The fruit consists of pairs of winged seeds about one half to one inch long. The wood is a soft close--grained and rather weak light brown. It is used to manufacture furniture, wooden ware, and for fuel.

Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis, reminded people of a flock of hovering birds and so it earned the Latin name columba or "dove." The flowers long curved spurs resembled an eagle's talons or Aquilegia Latin for eagle. Bees just nip the flower tip to drain the nectar out and hummingbirds love these flowers, as well. It was believed that juice from a fresh flower was used to reduce a swollen liver from jaundice or to cure measles or small pox. The plant may have a soothing effect on pain. It blooms from April thru July. The flower may be red or yellow.

Virginia spring beauty, Clayton virginica, has two long lanceolate leaves opposite each other on the stem. The one--half inch five petal flowers are white with pink lines. It blooms from March through May and is found in moist wooded areas. The flowers only last three days. Deer and moose browse on the tiny flowers, but humans and small animals like to eat the roots. The roots taste like radishes when raw and like potatoes when cooked.

Star chickweed, Stellaria puberal, is known for its white flower but is valued by birds,animals, and humans. Birds find its seeds to be quite delectable so it is also known as birdseed. Grazing animals are drawn to it because the plant is a source of copper. European markets sell it because it is considered a very tender edible green and is added to many salads. It is also high in vitamins A and C--helpful treatment for scurvy. It has also been known as a poultice for abscesses and boils. According to folklore the sun will be shining bright if the blossoms are spread out to their fullest. If the flower begins to close that means rain is coming.

PSALMS 103:15--As for man, his days are as grass: as a flower of the field, so he flourisheth.

2015-11-06T13:35:00.001-08:00

Appalachian Trail Hike Over Blood Mountain

I think often of individuals who are not physically able to hike but wish they could take one step on the Appalachian Trail and feel great about it. That's why I do not let any type of weather keep me from doing it. Rain, snow, sleet, hail do not stop me from putting one foot in front of the other. Thunder and lightening are the only factors that will make me stay home.
I usually hike in waterproof trail shoes, baseball hat, and rain coat. On rare occasion I will hike in gators, rain pants, and maybe an umbrella. As strange as it might seem, it is not hard to carry an umbrella and walk with a trekking pole at the same time. I may look funny, but I stay very dry.
Years ago my wife bought me a Golite umbrella, but I never had the nerve to hike with it for fear of being called a wimp. However, I have used it during snow storms and heavy rainfalls. It feels really good to keep the rain from stinging my face and the cold water from running down my neck and back.
While hiking up Blood Mountain I passed seven thru hikers who all liked the idea of the umbrella. All seven looked as if there was not a dry spot on their body. I stopped and chatted with all of them about what might be next after they finished the trail. The hikers had one night left on their quest to finish the 2,100+ miles of the Appalachian Trail (AT).
I am a section hiker and am not physically able to hike more than 100 miles at any one time. As part of a southern vacation my wife agreed to help me hike a 10.7 mile section of the Appalachian Trail from Woody Gap to Neel Gap. She dropped me off at the trail head and then picked me up that evening at the end of the trail. Many times she has been the shuttle guide for drop off and pick up. Most men my age are not interested in spending time hiking or backpacking any trail. The picture below was taken at the beginning of my hike in the Chattahoochee National Forest Neel Gap by way of Blood Mountain in pouring rain. Blood Mountain is the highest peak on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia at 4,458 feet. There are several theories for the name Blood Mountain. One theory is that it is the spot where the Cherokee and Creek Indian tribes had a big battle for territorial land rights and thousands of indians died. Another theory is that there was a mass murder of colonists in this area by indians, and the last theory is that it is named Blood Mountain because of the red colored lichen on the rocks.

The umbrella, gators, rain jacket and waterproof shoes kept me dry for most of the hike.

An old sign announcing the beginning of the Blood Mountain wilderness where the highest mountain on the Appalachian Trail in Georgia is found.

The trail is clearly marked with the white blaze. It is hard to get lost on the trail because if you miss a white blaze you can turn around, and you will more than likely see a blaze making the other hiking direction.

There are trail directional signs located in areas where other trails cross the AT. The trail sign indicated that my hike was 11.7 miles long.

After thousands of hikers have hiked the AT, the trail has become like an elongated bath tub. All the rain and snow that falls stays on the trail and all attempts to make the water run off the trail by using water bars is almost useless. The water was two to three inches deep for most of the hike. My waterproof shoes did a great job keeping my feet dry.

The trail was posted with bear warning signs due to all of the bear sightings at the camp areas. The most bear activity was in the spring and bear canisters were advised for campers/hikers.

A stream restoration project was being performed at the base of Blood Mountain on a small creek about two feet wide and caution was encouraged by hikers.

It was October and the maple leaves were in full color.

There are very few four-walled shelters on the AT and Blood Mountain has one of them. It was built in 1934 by the Civilian Conservation Corp. I looked inside and it was dry but very damp with concrete floors.

The privy was an above ground structure called a composting toilet. There was no privacy for all viewers could see you sitting from the waist up.

At the top there were shear rock slabs covered with wet leaves. That made it very dangerous to walk. Two of the last three miles of the hike were on extremely slippery rock slabs and steps.

The trail leading down the north slope was shaped like a elongated rock bath tub. The pounding rain and driving winds made it very difficult to walk down the steep slope.

Toward the bottom of the hike the trail was composed largely of steps made out of layered rock. The down step was about twice the drop of a normal stair step in a house. The impact to the knees was very stressful. With every step I could hear mentally my couch potato friends say, "That is why we do not hike."

At the bottom of Blood Mountain at Neel Gap is a large backpacking store and hostel called the Mountain Center, the only place on the AT where you actually pass through a man-made rock structure. You can restock any of your needs as well as have a bed, towel, and hot shower all for seventeen dollars.

Isaiah 40:4 - Every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill be made low: and the crooked shall be made straight, and the rough places plain:

2015-11-06T06:58:00.000-08:00

Winter Bicycling

The Bike Ride

I go on an outside activity just about any time of the year. If someone wants to go I am willing to venture out with them. I have several friends in Richmond, Virginia who share that same desire to be in the outdoors.
I was recently invited to go on a bicycling trip around Richmond one Saturday morning. For many years I lived in the Richmond suburbs and worked in the downtown area. I bicycled to and from work every day for fifteen years in all kinds of weather. Many times I cycled the twenty mile trip during cold, rainy, snowy, and icy conditions. I was prepared to take on the January winter cycling challenge.
We started at 6:30 AM on Saturday with the temperatures near twenty degrees. It was still dark and headlights and tail lights were a necessity. It is important to check the condition of your bicycle before you start. I did not check my bike before we started peddling and found out that my shifter cable to my rear derailer had jammed in a mid-range gear, and I had to peddle the thirty miles with what amounted to riding a side walk bike. Fortunately, we did not have to go up too many hills, I could stand up and pump up those hills. During the ride we averaged ten to twelve miles per hour which made a chill factor below freezing. Richmond had just experienced a week of snow and freezing rain. The roads were covered with sand and chemicals used to treat them for safe automobile travel. When you ride on a road like this your tires pick up the road treatment, and at the end of your ride your chain is coated with lots of sand and debris.

Gear

Bicycle - Start with a bicycle in good mechanical condition and with a working headlight and tail light if you will be starting before daylight. I prefer using toe clips rather than snap on pedals. I have had several accidents riding in the city using both types of pedals, and my injuries have been less with the toe clip cage type of pedals. I have installed a small bicycle rack over the rear tire to carry extra gear and to stop the splatter from the rear tire onto the back of my clothes. On my down tubes there are two water cages for my water bottles and for carrying extra tire gear. An insulated water bottle will keep the water from the freezing during chill factors.

Cycling tights - Cycling tights go over your regular cycling shorts. The tights are normally a synthetic tight-fitting fabric to give you and extra layer of clothing to shield the cold wind. With temperatures near freezing the tights are built with a wind proof front fabric over a warmer breathable rear fabric. Overlapping extra folded material at the knees allows for freedom of movement while peddling. A draw string at the waist keeps them from slipping down, and zipped bottom cuffs make it easy to remove without taking your cycling shoes off.

Front

Back

Cycling base layer - A base layer of a tight fitting non-cotton breathable synthetic long sleeve shirt allows the sweat to wick away from the body. A half zippered neck allows for venting heat away from the body.

Base long sleeve non cotton layer

Top layer - A short sleeve half-zippered wool top layer Jersey wicks the perspiration away from the body.

Top layer wool cycling jersey

Winter cycling coat - A winter cycling coat usually consists of a wind resistant fabric in the front and a breathable synthetic fabric in the rear.

Reflective wind breaker- May be worn outside of the cycling coat.

Reflective vest - May be worn in place of a jacket in warmer weather.

A balaclava - May be worn to protect the face from wind burn.

Neckerchief - A neckerchief is sometimes used to protect carotid artery in the neck from the cold.

Toe clip hoods - While cycling in the cold your toes do not get good blood circulation. You can buy a small hood that you Velcro around your toe clip to protect your toes from the severe chill factors.

Touring bicycling shoes - No Snap-ins cleats. It is a good idea to wear cycling shoes that you can walk in, in case you have bicycle malfunctions. In that way you can walk to a near by house or business.

Socks - The proper wool socks are important because you do not want them to be too tight and restrict the blood flow to your feet. A silk inner sock and a wool outer sock should be enough protection to guard against numb feet from the cold.

Neoprene overshoes - These are covers available to help keep your feet warm. The shoe cover goes over your cycling shoe, insulating your foot from extreme cold due to very low chill factors.

Mirror - A mirror is essential in order to see approaching cars from behind you. It may attach to the handle bars or to the side of your helmet.

Tool/repair kit - Tire changing tool, extra tube, tire patch kit and some way to inflate the tire would be important to have in your kit.

Contents of tool/kit - Be sure to include a CO2 air pump, extra tube, tire changer tool.

Extra tools - You may also carry some extra tools such as an adjustable wrench, tape, and bungee straps

Water bottle/snack - Pack at least one water bottle for rehydration and a protein snack/power bar.

The pictures/information above include most of the equipment that I carry for a bicycling trip in the winter.

John 15:11 - These things I have spoken unto you, that my joy might remain in you, and your joy might be full.

2015-08-25T05:07:00.000-07:00

A Hiking Trip to Springer Mountain, the Southern Terminus of the Appalachian Trail

A little over 3,000 people worldwide attempt to thru hike the entire 2100 miles of the Appalachian Trail (AT), Georgia to Maine, every year, and only about 300 succeed in their quest. They begin the hike for many reasons--a loss of a loved one, divorce, time between schools, a time to find oneself, loss of a job, recent release from the military, graduation, and maybe just because the trail is there. The cost ranges from a frugal $1,500 to around $3,000 for restocking of food and supplies along the trail. Most hikers prepare ahead with planned stops where supplies are mailed to local post offices along the trail.

Many hikers hike with friends or pair up with solo hikers along the trail. The trail goes a lot faster if the hiker can share experiences as he/she log the miles. The average hiker who finishes the trail does it in about four to seven months. Most of hikers begin in late February or early March in Georgia so they can beat the winter snow closing of the trail in Maine. It takes a very dedicated and physically fit person to hike the entire trail at one time.

I chose to hike the 8.6 mile section of the trail from Springer Mountain to Hightower Gap (USFS 42). I hired a local man to shuttle me and my day pack within a mile of the top of Springer by way of a United States Forestry Service (USFS) fire road. The total hike was 9.6 miles with the addition of the extra mile to get to the beginning of the Appalachian Trail.

After hiking a mile I reached the rock overlook on the summit of Springer Mountain at elevation of 3,782 feet--the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. I am told that at the top there is a rock outcrop with excellent northwest views of the Cohutta Mountains, but the day I hiked it was cloudy with light rain and no views at all. There were two bronze plaques that marked this point as the terminus of the AT. The first plaque was made by the Georgia Appalachian Trail Club (GATC) in 1933 and was set in stone. The second plaque placed by the USFS was next to the last white trail blaze and showed the route of the AT. At the summit along with white blaze markers there are blue blazes marking the 8.1 mile approach trail from Amicalola Falls Park.

The First Plaque Indicating the Southern Terminus

The Second Plaque and White Blaze Marker

Descending Springer Mountain I passed along a rocky trail sparkling with bits of mica, blueberries and azaleas. At the 0.2 mile point I crossed a blue blazed trail leading to the Springer Mountain shelter and another white diamond-marked trail called the Benton MacKaye Trail (BMT). The shelter was built in 1993 and has a sleeping loft, a picnic table, and a privy. The BMT is named in honor of Benton MacKaye who first proposed the trail in 1921. The BMT will, when finished, run from the Cohutta Mountains and the Cherokee National Forest to the western end of the smokies.

The Benton MacKaye Trail Marker

The AT continues down hill passing on and over large boulders covered with rock tripe, a leathery lichen. Because many springs seep along the trail, there are large blankets of ferns accompanied by spring flowering bloodroot wildflower.

At mile post 0.9 I passed by the point where my shuttle had dropped me off earlier. A bird house welcomed the parking area.

Again the white diamond-blazed BMT crosses the AT at mile marker 1.2. The AT and BMT follow the same route until they split at the 1.8 mile marker. The hiker has to be very careful to follow the right marker. A white rectangle marker can at times look very much like a white diamond marker. Georgia was heavily logged earlier and trails follow or cross many old logging roads.

The AT continues over Rich Mountain, crosses a stream at 2.1 miles, and turns left onto an old road with pretty blue wildflowers growing along the roadside.

Crested Dwarf Iris (Iris cristata) Greek Name for "Rainbow"

At 2.5, miles a side trail leads to the Stover Creek Shelter, an older three-sided building cuddled among the hemlock trees.

At 3.6 the trail crosses Stover Creek into a mixed hardwood and hemlock forest. On a hot humid day the hemlocks give you a sense of winter time and Christmas trees. At the 4.1 mile marker the AT and BMT cross an area called Three Forks, named for the joining of Stover, Chester, and Long Creeks which flow into Noontootla, meaning "shinning water," Creek in Cherokee, renamed Ocoee River in Tennessee.

Stover Creek bridge crossing

Three Forks Crossing Trail Marker

At the 5.1 mile marker the trail goes toward the Tennessee border and crosses a gravel road at 5.8 miles, which leads to the Hickory Flats Cemetery with a picnic table and a covered pavilion. Hickory Flats was formed in the early 1900's as a dispersed community that farmed in "the flats". Parts of an old church can be seen beside the cemetery. A blue blaze on the left leads to Hawk Mountain Shelter--a fairly new shelter built in 1994 at elevation 3,619 feet. The trail descends to Hightower Gap. At this point two well-traveled forest service roads USFS 42 and 69 converge at the 8.1 mile marker, and my shuttle ride was able to pick me up. All of the forest roads are unpaved and often can become rough and muddy.

Habakkuk 3:19 The Lord is my strength, and he will make my feet like hind's feet, and he will make me to walk upon mine high places.

2014-12-08T08:44:00.001-08:00

Peaks of Otter Lodge and Sharp Top Trail
Bedford, Virginia

Many of us may live our whole lives without stopping and looking around us to see the beautiful landscapes God has created. My wife and I have been avid campers all our lives. We were introduced to nature by our parents, church; and the Boy Scouts. The Peaks of Otter Lodge is located approximately thirty miles north of the city of Roanoke on the Blue Ridge Parkway. The lodge itself is situated in a valley between Round Top and Sharp Top Mountains. A small lake is located on the southern side of the lodge and all of the lodge rooms have balconies with the lake and Sharp top views. There are hiking trails that have their beginning at or near the lodge. My favorite hike is the hike up Sharp Top Mountain.

A sign at the beginning of the Sharp Top hike offers some history of the hike and surrounding area. Sharp Top Mountain attracted Indians some 8,000 years ago the same way the scenery attracts modern day visitors. To reach the top the hiker has two choices, by a bus ride or by hiking the 1.5 mile trail to the top. In earlier times the mountain was believed to be the highest in Virginia. In honor of George Washington a rock was included as part of the Washington Monument in Washington D.C. Later land surveyors determined there were other mountains taller than Sharp Top. To this day the lodge at the base of Sharp Top Mountain gives visitors a chance to relax in an environment of cool temperatures, recreation and inspiration. As custom in the morning one may take the hike to the top of Sharp Top to see the sunrise over the valley below.

Sharp Top sign with the above information at the trail head

Picture taken from the lodge looking across the lake to Sharp Top

Sharp Top bus that takes riders to the top

Fall leaves along the trail

Fall flowers brighten the path.

The trail is very rocky and steep and railings are provided for help climbing.

Almost at the top is a large rock outcropping called Buzzard's Roost and further up
is Sharp Top.

A trail sign leads the way to Buzzard's Roost and the bus parking lot.

Buzzard's Roost requires some rock hopping to see magnificent views of the
valley.

More rock steps and hand rails nearer the top

At higher elevations near the top one can see the clouds looming above the trees.

Very near the top there is a sign explaining that weathering of larger rocks have formed boulders-like blocks of Diorite rocks formed by the freezing and thawing of the moisture in the cracks of the rocks.

At the top of the mountain there is a sign next to a small cabin stating that Sharp Top Mountain is 3,875 feet in elevation, and that a rock taken from this mountain was placed in the Washington Monument with the inscription, "From Otter's summit-Virginia's loftiest peak, to crown a monument to Virginia's noblest son."

A small one-room cabin sits on top of the mountain, and no one is allowed to stay in the cabin overnight. The story is told of a group of Boy Scouts who stayed in the cabin during a heavy lightening storm, and a lightening bolt struck the cabin going down the chimney killing one of the scouts.

At the top there are National Park Service markers with the names of distant mountains. This one is pointing to Thunder Ridge 9 miles due north.

There are steps and terraces at the top built to allow easy viewing of the valley below.

On the very top of Sharp Top Mountain one can see the Peak's otter Lake and lodge below. From here you can retrace your steps back to the trail head.

Psalms 72:3 "The mountains shall bring peace to the people, and the little hills, by righteousness."

2014-10-04T16:07:00.000-07:00

Dragons Tooth

Dragon's Tooth is the second most popular hike in Southwestern Virginia. It is more physically demanding than nearby McAfee's Knob which is a short distance away. On the day I hiked Dragon's Tooth the trail head parking lot had twenty parked cars, and the parking lot to McAfee's Knob had about 150 cars. Dragon's Tooth is a five mile round trip hike from the trail head parking lot.

As I walked up the path from the parking lot I was greeted by a patch of ripe blackberries. This area is known for the black bear sightings, and I wondered if I would be seeing any sampling blackberries along the trail.

The trail is well marked by a blue blaze painted approximately six feet from the bottom of tree trunks. Although the trail is well worn from the many hikers who take the challenge to hike Dragon's Tooth, it is well-maintained in an attempt to stop erosion of the soil from occurring.

As you hike along the trail you will cross many low water bridges built to span several of the wet weather drainages at the base of the mountain.

During heavy rainfalls these small wet weather streams can become raging drainage ways that can take large boulders and fallen trees down the mountainside.

A short distance up the trail you will see yellow blaze trail markers leading to the left showing the beginning of the Boy Scout Trail. This side trail takes you to the Appalachian Trail and another way to climb Dragon's Tooth.

A series of water bars are placed along the trail to direct stormwater across the trail and into the woods, rather than allowing the water to increase its erosive force down the trail.

Although the water only stays a short time in pools along the wet weather stream you may see some aquatic insects and crayfish enjoying that time.

The trail is steep but manageable by the many switch backs to the top.

Rock steps are constructed where switch backs are not constructed.

I like to try to identify the plant life along the trail. This plant is a young sassafras tree. It is recognizable by its three distinctive leaf shapes. In the winter the sap is stored in the roots for new growth in the spring.

Many varieties of maple trees are found all along the trail.

The mountain ash has a leaf much like the red maple and it is known for its distinctive green lines running down the tree branch . As I was looking at the different trees I heard a noise as if someone was shuffling through the dry leaves and looked up to see a big black bear and before I could take his picture he was gone.

Poison ivy is known to grow all along the edges of the trail, and the oil from the leaf and stem causes a skin rash.

If you take the Boy Scout Trail you will pass through an area where pine needles cover the path from a pine groove.

Before too long you will come to the Appalachian Trail marked with a white blaze. The Dragon's Tooth Trail and The Appalachian Trail become one from here to the top. A map is provided on the post to help make sure you go the right direction.

There are areas where you can stop to view the beautiful

valley below.

You know you are getting nearer the top of the mountain by the large out croppings of solid rock.

Even though you see large rocks you are still aware of nature's force of erosion by seeing the sand along the trail. The force of wind, water, freezing, and thawing cause the decay of rocks into sand.

Closer to the top the trail gets very rocky and more dangerous. A sign warns you of the danger in hiking over a steep and rocky trail.

You will walk along narrow ledges and come into contact with loose rocks.

Where there are no trees to mark the path the correct way is marked by white paint on the rocks.

There are areas where there are no easy hand holds and here metal steps are provided.

In other areas where metal hand holds cannot be provided, you are left to rock scramble over these areas.

You know you are at the top when you can turn around and look between the large rock boulders that form the Dragon's teeth and see views of the valley and mountains below.

Once at the top you can make a turn around of about 360 degree view of the valley below.

There is no question in my mind that God created the beauty in all of what we see.

Isaiah 55:12 - You will go out in joy and be led forth in peace; the mountains and hills will burst into song before you, and the trees of the field will clap their hands.

2014-07-06T05:01:00.001-07:00

No Worry Family and Friends' Fun

Have you ever wished that you could attend a get together with friends and young children without the worry of hearing bad language, alcohol drinking, smoking, or gossiping?

This month I attended a father and daughter weekend canoe trip with friends from several local churches. I am a grandfather, and I was invited to participate by my son-in-law and granddaughter.
Six fathers and their young daughters, ages nine to eleven, and I floated down the James River headwaters, stopping overnight at a campground and then continuing downstream to a take-out point. The girls and fathers set up camp and cooked meals. Each canoe contained one father in the back and his daughter in the front. The fathers fished while the daughters paddled along the river. The James River flows fast enough along this section so that it did not take a lot of effort to navigate downstream. Occasionally, some of the girls would jump into the water for a refreshing dip in the river.
The rapids were easily-navigated whitewater Class I's and II's. Fathers provided lunch from the coolers carried in their canoes. Sometimes the canoeist would turn upstream and try to surf the rapids.
On Sunday morning we had an informal worship service thanking God for the opportunity to take the trip and the blessing, as well as responsibility, that fathers have in raising their daughters in Christian love and understanding.
The additional blessing for me was that the trip was free of alcohol, drugs, bad language, swearing, and inappropriate dress. Unlike work family picnics that I have attended in the past, this activity was a breath of fresh air--literally as we enjoyed God's outdoor magnificence, and figuratively, as we enjoyed fellowship that would please our Lord. Before, I was afraid to attend these type of activities because of what my children might hear or see. What a delight to be free of all of that worry and to be with Christian family and friends. I thank God that He provides times like this because of His great love and care for us and our spiritual and emotional needs. He knows us so well.
Proverbs 22:6 reminds us, "Train up a child in the way he should go," (NIV). I know that this weekend will remain in the hearts of these girls--having enjoyed fellowship with their earthly fathers, who are training them to draw closer to their heavenly Father, as well.

My Native Ultimate 12 foot Kayak

Headwaters of the James River near Roanoke Virginia

Fathers and their daughters paddling along the river

Paddling and fishing along the James River

Growing Older Along The Trail

2014-01-22T07:42:00.000-08:00

I am a older hiker, and I find it harder physically to continue hiking the trail. My bones ache with every mountain I climb, and I find myself staying in the sleeping bag longer each morning. But I continue to hike because I am inspired by the beautiful mountain views and wonder of God's creation. I rest often on rocks or fallen trees knowing that there are hundreds of hikers that have passed along this same trail before me, and I think of the thousands of people who are unable to experience what I am experiencing. I recently met an older lady who was able to express the feeling I have when I hike along the trail. Phyllis V. Brokaw wrote this poem in 2009 and has given me permission to share it with you.

Out in the Woods with God

Have you ever stood in the midst of the woods

and heard the forest talk;
Have you been all alone as the tree tops swayed
to a music all their own?
Have you seen a bird fly from limb to limb
as she sweetly sang to you?
Have you heard a brook as it flowed o'er the rocks
lend its rhythm in cadence, too?
Did you notice how leaves as they gently fall
form a beautiful carpet for you?

It's a wonderful thing when God's nature provides
an oasis away from life's storms;
Take a day away in the woods someday
when tired and weary and worn.
It's a special gift and an awesome reprieve
out in the woods with Him;
If you stand very still, I am sure that you will
hear the still small voice within;
You'll draw from the silence the peace that you seek
and know you've been touched by the King.

If you'll stand very still in the turmoil of life
and heed to that voice within;
You'll be led the Spirit in wisdom and grace
in the midst of the chaos and din;
Then you'll find all you need of courage and hope
if you'll travel life's highway with Him.

2013-11-27T09:28:00.000-08:00

Hiking One of the Most Traveled Sections of the Southern Appalachian Trail - McAfee's Knob Loop

McAfee's Knob

The McAfee's Knob hike begins at the junction of the Appalachian Trail and Route 311, just outside of the city of Roanoke, Virginia. It is approximately 3.9 miles long creating about an 8 mile round trip. An old fire road parallels the first 3 miles of the trail making the trail to the top very accessible by just about everyone. The trail overlooks the valley from Catawba Mountain. It begins at Route 311 and immediately ascends a stone stairwell to a series of switchbacks that reach to the crest of a narrow steep ridge passing by the Boy Scout and Catawba shelters. Water supplies at these shelters and along the trail may be seasonal and cannot be relied upon for drinking water. Therefore hikers should carry their own water for the trip. The mountains here sit on the edge of a giant sandstone out-cropping known as the Pulaski Fault. A series of narrow foot bridges carry the hiker over some of the rock ledges of the fault. Depending on the season the trail is dotted with a wide variety of flowers and trees. This area is known for its mountain laurel and redbud trees. Because of its hanging seedpods, the redbud is considered to be a member of the pea family. It is also called the flowering Judas tree. Some people believe it is the tree Judas Iscariot hanged himself from. At the top of McAfee's Knob are several large outcrops that jut out from the mountain side. Views from the top are breathtaking of nearby Tinker Cliffs and Catawba and Roanoke valleys.

Hundreds of people hike this trail each year. Wear and tear from hikers and downed trees from severe weather takes a toll on the trail.The large volume of hikers and the sandy soil causes the trail to require lots of maintenance.

Hiking along the ridge of McAfees Knob Trail.

Wooden bridges over sandstone outcrops

Tree falls across the wooden bridge.

A soil replacement trail for the destroyed wooded bridge

View of Catawba Valley from the trail

A sign announcing the end of the trail and top of the mountain

McAfees Knob

Psalms 121:1-2 I will lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from whence cometh my help. My help cometh from the Lord, which made heaven and earth.

2013-05-03T16:27:00.001-07:00

Hiking the Appalachian Trail in Pennsylvania Northbound from Swatara Gap to the Blue Rocks Family Campground

Hiking History

I have talked with many Appalachian Trail thru hikers, and each of them have told me how hard it is to hike the rocky areas of the AT in Pennsylvania. In the past I have envisioned hiking the entire AT in sections at my own walking rate. I am over half way finished hiking the entire AT and I have recently come to the realization that at age 70 the vision may not become a reality. About 20 years ago I was diagnosed with severe knee loss of cartilage due to many years of overuse and abuse running marathons and ultramarathrons. Three doctors told me that I needed immediate knee replacements in both knees and that my long distance outdoor activities of running, bicycling and walking were a thing of the past. I refused to give in to an inactive life of being a couch potato. I vowed to become even more active than before the doctors' diagnosis. I knew that running was no longer an option, but bicycling and long-distance walking seemed real and viable to me. I began bicycling to and from work and started hiking small sections of the AT. My first real test was to bicycle 470 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway. I completed the trip in six days and since then I have not looked back. I have completed many 100 and 50 mile bicycle rides, bicycled to and from work for ten years, as well as hiked portions of the AT and the Continental Divide Trail. Last summer I hiked Rim to Rim of the Grand Canyon. I thought that I would have enough time to finish hiking the AT before I physically would have to quit. My latest adventure was to hike 75 miles on the AT from Swatara Gap to Lehigh gap in Pennsylvania. I divided the hike into two parts. The first part was from Swatara Gap to Port Clinton and the second from Port Clinton to Lehigh Gap.

Swatara Gap to Port Clinton Hike

At Swatara Gap a hiking friend joined me as an encourager and as a safety precaution against me falling and being left all alone injured on the trail. The AT is a well-maintained trail. Hikers have a very small chance of becoming lost in the woods. The chance of injury comes from falling while walking long distances on basketball-sized wobbly rocks up and down the mountains with a 35 pound pack. During the month of April in Pennsylvania there are only a few thru hikers on this portion of the trail and an injured solo hiker may lay unattended for hours or even days. We hiked together for three days before he had to quit to attend the Penn Relays in Philadelphia.

Along the trail we passed groups of young couples trying to find suitable areas to view the meteor showers expected that night. Our first stop after 11.2 miles was the 501 Shelter. The 501 Shelter is one of the only shelters that are enclosed with a roof and four walls. The shelter is maintained by a caretaker who lives in a house less than 100 yards away. The shelter ceiling is composed of a skylight covering the entire roof. If we had not been so tired we could have viewed the meteor shower without getting out of our bed. It was great to be able to sleep inside without the worry of bears or other larger animal visitations looking for our food. Of course, one has to worry about mice in the shelter trying to sneak a morsel of food or steal something to line their home from a chewed piece of coat or sleeping bag. It was 29 degrees that morning, making it hard to roll out of our sleeping bags to starte on the new day's hike. I dined on a breakfast cookie and some hot instant coffee. I usually pack only very light items for a long hike, but my pack was much heavier this trip. Although the mountains of this section of the AT in Pennsylvania are only 1500 feet high they are challenging because of the very rocky trails.

The next day we hiked to the Eagles Nest Shelter, approximately 13 miles. This hike was not very scenic. There were rocks, trees, and shrubs along the entire day's hike. The shelter was three-sided with a roof. Another hiker was already at the shelter nursing a smoky fire. After three washes my jacket and clothes after three washes still smell like campfire smoke. The other hiker was in his late forties and appeared to be an experienced hiker. His destination was some place in New Hamphire, and I hoped we would not be seeing much of him further down the trail because his snore sounded like a wounded bear all night long. My friend and the new hiker hiked a lot together the next day. They hiked at a faster pace than I did, but my friend stopped many times to let me catch up with him. You should never hike solo along the trail in areas that can be very dangerous. We saw very few other hikers along this hike. We never saw the other hiker again. The next day's hike would be nine miles into the town of Port Clinton. This hike was very much like the last day's hike without any exiting views.

At one point my friend missed a turn in the trail, and I managed to get in front of him. It was a pleasant surprise to see him coming up behind me. We walked together for awhile, and I was in front of him when I heard a large thump. He had fallen on the trail on some rocks, but he jumped up and exclaimed that he was not hurt and limped onward. I wonder while in private that night did he secretly survey his bruises and knots from the fall. The trail coming into the town was almost straight down without any switchbacks for about a mile. It was very hard to keep our balance while going downhill, stepping over large rocks with a heavy pack. I stayed in the town at the Port Clinton Hotel. The Port Clinton is an old coal town.

There were many historic markers documenting the town's history. I believe the hotel was as old as the town. The hotel lobby was also the bar, and the dinning area was just off the bar. My friend decided to have lunch with me before he was shuttled back to his car in Duncannon, PA. He ordered meat loaf and stuffed mashed potatoes. Stuffed mashed potatoes are mashed potatoes with pieces of celery, onions, bread crumbs and other things (who knows what else). I had a cheeseburger and a small french fries. The small french fries were enough for three people. The large fries must have been made from ten large potatoes. The people who ran the hotel were very nice. My room was one of six rooms upstairs. The door was locked by a dead bolt since the door knob lock had been shattered sometime earlier. The bathroom was at the end of the hallway. The bed mattress reminded me of one of those sway-back horses I used to see during a family country drive when I was a child. I did not care about any of these things because it was a chance to sleep in a bed without anybody snoring next to me.

Port Clinton to Lehigh Gap Hike

I planned to continue solo hiking for four more days to Lehigh Gap. Since I had come down in elevation to Port Clinton that meant I had to go back up the same distance to the trail again. Somehow the breakfast cookie I ate did not have that lasting energy it had the previous morning. There were many great views of the valley below on the way up the mountain.

At the top the rocks became almost unbearable to walk on and I found myself taking many breaks. This trail had more day hikers. They did not have a problem telling me how difficult the trail is since it is lined with softball-sized rocks for miles and miles. The more hikers I encountered the more they stressed how dangerous the rocks were along the trail. The right kind of encouragement goes a long way, and the wrong kind makes a good day turn bad. My day's destination was a family campground a mile off the trail. If the side trail to the campground was only a sample of what was in store for me the next day I was mortified. At the end of the hike I checked into the Blue Rocks Family Campground. The campground was named Blue Rocks because there was a large rock field stretching from near the top of the mountain to the campground.

The rocks are thought to be deposited from glacier deposition during the ice age. The pictures confirmed to me that more rocks would have to be crossed the next day.

Graphic pictures of the dangerous trail rocks posted on the check-in wall was the straw that broke the camel's back. I made the decision to go no further and made arrangement's for my shuttle pickup for the next day. I had envisioned starting the hike the next day and only going half way down the trail before falling and having to call for help. I felt that I had reached my limitations for a safe hike and had to call it quits. Part of hiking is making sure you are safe in all that you do along the trail.

After Thought

I believe that I need to look at each section of the AT that I have not hiked yet and pick the hikes that are the most representative of each state section. I will not rule out slack packing or day hiking some of the more challenging sections. Let me know your ideas on my plan and post then in the comments section of this blog.

Psalm 40:2.............God set my feet on a rock and gave me a firm place to stand.

2013-03-23T06:39:00.000-07:00

High Bridge State Park

Farmville, Virginia

One of the newest state parks in Virginia highlights a trail that contains a long high bridge over the Appomattox River. The trail is a non-motorized multi-use trail for hiking, biking, and horseback riding. Bicycling the trail is a good way to get in shape early in the season.

Description: The trail is approximately 4 feet wide and 31 miles long. It is constructed of packed fine crushed white limestone along an old railroad bed originally belonging to Norfolk Southern Railroad. Mountain, hybrid or road bikes can easily ride the trail. Since it is relatively level and generally flat it is easy for bicyclists of all ages to ride the trail.

The highlight of the trail is the high bridge that crosses over the Appomattox River.

The bridge is 2,400 feet long and approximately 10 feet wide (steel tower) built in 1853 by Southside Railroad. The bridge is 160 feet to 125 feet above the Appomattox River. The wooden deck bridge sides or railings are high and constructed so that you do not have to worry about falling over the edge into the river. There are observation platforms with park benches equally spaced along the bridge. The bridge trail maintains a historic 6 % grade mimicking the original railroad elevation that makes it easy for bicycling or running.

Bicycle rider riding across the High Bridge

Observation deck with bicycles

The bridge is the longest recreational bridge in Virginia, and one of the longest in the United States.

For your comfort the trail is lined with picnic tables and toilets.

Bench constructed part of an Eagle Scout project

Toilet facility

Drinking water is not available along the trail. Also along the trail are the original railroad concrete mile markers, and you also can see the remains of telegraph poles erected in the 1900's.

The trail begins at Pamplin, VA and ends 31 miles just short of Burkesville, VA. Park rangers and local police monitor the trail daily. A small fee is charged at the beginning of the trail.

Park History: The trail was constructed along an old railroad bed that ran from Lynchburg, Virginia, to Petersburg, Virginia. The High Bridge trail now starts along the old railroad train tracks bed in the city of Pamplin, passing over and under roadways and through the cities of Prospect, Farmville, Rice, and ending north of Burkeville. Pamplin was once the largest clay pipe factory in the world.

The trail crosses over roadways

Roadway crossingwith warning sign for motorists

Cities will often post a sign for the trail.

The High Bridge was originally made of wood with 21 brick piers, a pedestrian walkway, and wagon bridge alongside. The trail and bridge were very important during the Civil War.

Historic marker at the beginning of the bridge

Old signs of the original pedestrian walkway

Remains of the old wagon crossing

Two very decisive battles were fought here in April, 1865 and lead to General Lee's final days of the war. On April 6 and 7, 1865, one of the final battles occurred that helped to end Lee's campaign 2 days latter in Appomattox. Troops of the armies of the North and South tried to burn the bridge down, but the bridge prevailed, and it was later donated to Virginia by the Norfolk Southern Railroad in the year 2006. The last train traveled over the bridge on October 26, 2004. The park is now part of the Virginia State Park system, a part of the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation.

Flora & Fauna: A turkey was seen along the trail as well as a green snake.

Green Snake

Many wildflowers were also observed along the edges of the trail. In June you may see the early low bush blueberry, blue ridge blueberry, winter grape, pigeon grape, suckling clover, kidney leaf rosin weed, marsh bristle grass and the bristly fox tail in bloom. While standing on the bridge in the spring you can hear what sounds like hundreds of spring peeper frogs echoing below.

Nearby town: Farmville is one of the largest towns that the trail passes through about halfway into the ride. It has lots of little eating places for you to stop for lunch or to freshen up before traveling further.

Old town Farmville sign

The High Bridge is located due east from the town of Farmville

Local diner in Farmville for a lunch break before the High Bridge

JOHN 7:38 - Whoever believes in me, as the scriptures has said, streams of living water will flow from within him.

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2012-09-02T14:33:00.000-07:00

Grand Canyon Rim-2-Rim Hike

This Blog Contains Videos of My Backpacking Trip Down the North Rim of the Grand Canyon Via the North Kiabab Trail to the Top of the South Rim Hiking Up the Bright Angel Trail.

To remember my backpacking experience I decided to use a Hero GoPro video camera to record the event.

The trail leading to the bottom of the Grand Canyon is called the North Kiabab Trail. It begins at an elevation of 8,000 feet above sea level. The trail switches back and forth among evergreens and cottonwood trees till it reaches the Phantom Ranch and the Colorado River. Three inches of dust coats the trail for the entire 14 miles to the ranch. The dust cushions the impact to the knees making it a pleasant hike. The north rim trail is shaded much of the hike.

Only 15,000 people are granted permits out of 70,000 applicants to hike and camp in the Grant Canyon each year in the months of May and September. The three of us were granted the permit to hike and the permit had to be displayed attached to the pack at all times.

The trail up the south rim of the Grand Canyon is called the Bright Angel Trail. It is maintained with cross logs and rock wanes to help the mule trains navigated the trail safely. The temperature at the bottom of the Grand Canyon the day before was 120 degrees and 102 degrees that night. I hiked out from the campsite the next morning at 4 AM to try to get through the hottest part of the trail before the sun reached its highest point around 1 PM.

Some of the best views of the canyon can be seen from the south rim trail. Many tourist hike to the Indian Garden Campground and back for a 10 mile hike.

And make straight paths for your feet, lest that which is lame be turned out of the way; but let it rather be healed. Hebrews 12:13

2012-08-06T13:43:00.000-07:00

Backpacking Rim-2-Rim Grand Canyon Arizona
Part 2
Many people ask me why I would ever consider backpacking the Grand Canyon, and I answer by saying, "Because it is one of the many great wonders of the world that was created by God." We often get so bogged down with the every day routine of work and family life that we take for granted the great things in nature that God has created for our enjoyment. It is exciting to walk some of the same trails that our pioneers and first explorers walked many years before. I also feel a special kinship with them when I put on a backpack with all of the necessities of life such as food ,water, shelter, clothing, and hike in much the same way as they did in the beginning. The excitement of knowing that if you hike into the canyon you must hike out because there is no other way out unless you are seriously injured. You are on your own. A helicopter port is located at every campground and at selected sites for the "bumblebee" copter ride out for the injured. I also enjoy meeting and talking to fellow hikers along the trail. They come from all over the world to hike the Canyon. No matter what language they speak we all have the beauty of the canyon as a common bond.

Phantom Ranch

I ended Part 1 staying at the Bright Angel Campground near the Phantom Ranch. My two hiking companions and I stayed two days at the campground. The ranch is the only overnight lodging below the rim. It has eleven rustic cabins and two dormitories along the banks of Bright Angel Creek surrounded by cottonwood trees. A canteen serves home-cooked meals; showers and flush toilets add a touch of luxury. The ranch acts as an overnight station for rafters and mule riders. Reservations for the ranch are accepted 13 months in advance and sell out within a few hours on the first day on January. I applied for a camping permit for the three of us for a end of May hike. Approximately 70 thousand people apply to overnight hike for the months of May and September, and only 15 thousand are accepted--most of which are overnight hikers coming down from the South Rim. Not many people hike from Rim-2-Rim.

Bright Angel Campground
(photo was taken by Arnold Leonard)

There is a T-shaped metal pole on the left side of this picture, and it is designed for the hiker to hang pack on the top to keep animals from getting into it. The biggest problem are the ground squirrels. Ground squirrels look like tree squirrels but they live in holes in the ground and can jump high for long distances. They often jump up to the hanging packs and raid anything that is not in a metal container. I saw one squirrel jump onto a hanging pack, disappearing under the flap only to reappear within minutes with a chocolate cookie in its mouth. Most of our food was keep safe from animals in large military metal ammunition boxes provided by the campground. Each campground had national park rangers who provided care and guidance and evening programs to campers and lodge members. The campsite was great but the flush toilets were not working, and we had to carry water from the nearby stream to flush it after each use. The ranger explained that the rocks do a lot of shifting and tend to cause a break in the pipes supplying water to the ranch and campground. Sometimes when a water line runs along the trail a waterline breakage can wash out part of the trail. One such wash out did occur, and it washed out over 50 feet of trail. Fortunately we were already past that point in the trail. Some hikers were less fortunate and had to back track back to the beginning the trail.

Ground Squirrel looking for a hand out.

We hiked around the Phantom Ranch onto the Clear Creek Trail. This trail climbs high above the Phantom Ranch at several advantage point overlooking the Colorado River. Views of the South Kiabab and Bright Angel Trails can clearly be seen from this point. I sat on a large rock and watched as the mule trains carrying up to twenty riders slowly made their way down the South Rim. I could also watch the whitewater rafters float down the river. The Colorado River is a pretty green with very little silt in it because of the two dams on the river above and below the canyon.

Wooden Deck Suspension Bridge

If you look closely you can see the trail that carries mule riders down the South Rim.

Crossing Bridge

There are two suspension bridges one metal and one wooden. They cross the Colorado River from the South Rim.

Colorado River

At the right edge of the river you may be able to see some rafters who have stopped to visit the Phantom Ranch (2,400 feet above sea level). The trip began on top of the North Rim at 8,250 feet above sea level.

Tunnel

All mule riders coming to the Phantom Ranch from the South Rim via the South Kiabab Trail must come through a short tunnel in the rocks before crossing to the Colorado River.

Mule Train mule fitted for riding
(photo taken by Hezekiah Goodson)

Can you imaging riding a mule and having to squeeze through this tunnel? Most mule riders are given an hour long presentation by the mule team leader on what to expect and how to ride a mule. I overheard a mule team leader telling one young teenager that the mule she was riding liked to hug the outside of the trail next to the drop off. I know that probably did wonders for her confidence in riding mules on a skinnny trails.

The temperature in the Bottom of the canyon is 120 degrees

(photo was taken by Arnold Leonard)

The temperature at the bottom of the canyon is usually 20 to 25 degrees warmer than at the rim. At night it was 101 degrees with no air circulation and was a very dry heat. We were encouraged to sit in the Bright Angel Creek during the day to keep cool. As soon as we got out of the water we dried very quickly.

Indian Ruins

Native American tribes of the Hopi, Havasupi, Navajo, and Southern Paiute inhabited the Grand Canyon around A.D. 1300. There are many ruins from their existence near the Phantom Ranch along the Colorado River.

The Box

In order to get to the next campsite-- Indian Garden-- we had to hike through "The Box." The Box is a narrow canyon with high rock walls on both sides. Temperatures in the canyon can reach dangerously high levels in the Box if it is not passed before noon. Many hikers start well before sunrise to be sure to get through the canyon on time. It was strange seeing groups of hikers with their headlamps on bouncing past our campground like little fireflies at night. We left at around 5:30 AM and had no trouble getting through it. If you look very closely you can see the trail at the bottom of the canyon.

Sunrise shadows

I loved hiking in the morning, watching the sunrise cast shadows of one canyon wall onto another.

South canyon trail

The Bright Angel Trail leading to Indian Garden Campground was very easy to walk on because it consisted of a loosely packed weathered sedimentary soil. At no time did we have to rock scramble or walk on loose boulders. The trail was easy for mules to walk upon. The mule train guides were very proud to say that they have never lost a tourist or riding mule in the history of mule trips.

Indian Garden campground

Indian Garden Campground was the last overnight stop before we reached the South Rim--the end of our backpacking trip. The campground was an oasis of green in the desert. Native Americans settled here because there was an ample supply of water and available food to eat. The Grand Canyon is a desert with hot and dry conditions without the sand-like environment you see in traditional deserts on television. We always had access to water along the trail and didn't have to worry about dehydration.

The next morning at 4:00 equiped with headlamp on I left to get a jump start before the sun came up. I was well into the last 5 miles before the sun came up. The last 5 miles was loaded with people of all nationalities hiking down from the South Rim. Many people like to hike several miles down the rim just to get an idea of what it is like to hike the Bright Angel Trail and to be able to say they hiked the Grand Canyon.

Hiking through one of the tunnels along the trail.
(Photo taken by Arnold Leonard)

Along this section of the trail there are warning signs to help keep hikers safe.

At the end of the trail at the top of the South Rim.

A happy smiling finished backpacker!

Isaiah 40:4-- Every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill shall be made low: and the crooked shall be made straight, and the rough places plain.

The Following Photos Taken by Arnold Leonard

2012-07-14T16:35:00.001-07:00

Grand Canyon Rim-2-Rim Backpacking Arizona
Part 1

Preparation

It takes a lot of preparation and prayer to plan for a backpacking hike across the Grand Canyon. There are two times a year that the Grand Canyon National Park service will permit campers to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim. Most of the camping facilities are open in the spring and the fall. May and September are the permitable months of the year. Two friends and I decided to try for the May hiking window. We could choose any days from mid-May through the first week in June. We decided on the four days from May 23 to May 26 but left it open for any four days in the permitable season. I applied on the first day of January for the May hike. We finally were granted a permit to camp May 26 through May 29. There are no permits required for day hikes. You may make any day hikes you wish, but you must complete the hike in one day. Many people trail run the entire 25 miles from rim to rim in one day, and a few even run the trail rim to rim to rim in one day. We could have hiked the trail in three days, but we stayed an extra day at Phantom Ranch to do a few day hikes. One of our other hiking friends advised us to do it that way.

The Plan Summary

We flew from the east coast to Phoenix, stayed the night, rented a car, and drove to the Grand Canyon the next day. We then drove to the south rim and spent the night. The next day we took the shuttle to the north rim and spent the night at the North Rim Campground. The next morning we got an early start at 5 AM. We hiked to the Cottonwood Campground, approximately 7 miles, and stayed the night. The next morning we began again at 5 AM and hiked 7 miles to Bright Angel Campground,. We spent an extra day at the Bright Angel Campground. The fourth day we hike 5 miles to Indian Garden Campground an oasis half way up to the south rim. The last morning I left camp at 4 AM because the previous day's temperature was 119 degrees, and I wanted to reach the south rim before it got too hot. This was a 5 mile hike. That day we showered, changed into travel clothes, and returned the rental car to fly back home.

Detailed Trip

The flight to Phoenix was uneventful except the metal zippers in my convertible hiking pants set off the metal detectors, and I had to be searched. I checked my suitcase at the ticket counter. My theory was to put my empty pack into my suitcase and load everything else on top of it. That way if the suitcase was searched they could put everything back into the suitcase without much disruption. The plan worked great. When I got to the south rim campground I repacked the backpack and left the suitcase in the rental car. The shuttle the next day cost $85 per person and took about four hours to reach the north rim campground.

South Rim Mather Campground

North Rim Shuttle

The north rim shuttle carried around nine passengers. Of the nine passengers only the three of us were hiking rim-2-rim. The other passengers were running the trail in one day. They planned to start at 4 AM the next day and finish at 4 PM the same day.

Some people take the mule ride to the bottom of the canyon. The riding mules are kept apart from the pack mules by cutting their tails differently. The riding mules have a staggered cut tail and are trained for a much different ride than the pack mules.

After spending the night at the North Rim Campground my two hiking friends and I started at 5 AM the rim-2-rim hike on the North Kaibab Trail, which is around 8,000 feet .

The trail was about two to three feet wide and about two inches of deep dust. It was easy hiking and the dust cushioned my knees. Photo taken by an unnamed hiking companion.

We traveled through the Supai Rock Tunnel and saw the Roaring Springs gushing from the side of the canyon high above on the wall of rock.

The first night we stayed at the Cottonwood Campground about 7 miles down the trail. We were amused half the day by lots of 3 to 5 inch long lizards puffing out their colorful necks and doing more push ups than Rocky could ever think about doing. Much of the trail from this point on is paralleled by Bright Angel Creek.

The next day after a short hike we took a detour to Ribbon Falls about 3,720 feet in elevation. This day's hike was 7 miles long, ending at the Bright Angel Campground near the Phantom Ranch at 2,490 feet in elevation.

Before we could reach the Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground we had to go through The Box. The Box is part of the Bright Angel Canyon--a very hot part of the trail, and we had to get through it before the hottest part of the day from noon to sundown.

This a picture of the pack mules at the Phantom Ranch. All supplies had to be packed into the ranch and Bright Angel Campground. The ranch canteen had the best ice cold lemonade and served a great beef stew. This photo was take by Hezekiah Goodson, Jr.

This is Bright Angel Campground. A T-shaped pole in the background was a futile effort to stop ground squirrels from getting into our packs. Ammunition boxes were provided at each camp site to protect our food from wild animals. Photo was taken by an unnamed hiking companion.

The next part of the journey will be on my next blog Part 2.

2012-05-03T16:31:00.000-07:00

An Overnight Hike on the Appalachian Trail Near Waynesboro, Virginia

A Small Look Into The Window of Creation

Backpacking has always been a love of my life ever since I was born. I was born a second generation Polish American in the northern part of Virginia. I grew up in an old converted log cabin with very few modern conveniences. We had an outside spring for our water source and an old shaky privy for a bathroom. The outdoors was my play area. This may sound like I lived in any shelter along the Appalachian Trail but I didn't know I was any different until I started attending public school. That is why I love to backpack because I can still relate to life the way it was when I was growing up. I feel almost insulted when someone tries to tell me that all of the living and nonliving things around me were created by mistake or by natural selection. There can be only one way that all of the beautiful plants, animals, and geologic features were created and that is by God.

A Short Hike

One Thursday a friend and I decided to take a short five mile hike to a shelter, camp out, and hike back the next day. It had rained the day before enough to encourage many flowers to bloom the next day. Many red, pink and white flowers gave me an extra lift and a quick to my steps. The air was crystal clear and I knew in a moment that we were in for a pleasant two days on the trail. We passed many hikers along the trail and many of them were hiking long distances and a few could be considered thru hikers. We are both hammock backpackers and after hanging our food on the bear pole it only took minutes to erect our shelter. The temperature that night dropped near 40 degrees testing our skills on keeping warm. we enjoyed the hike and looked forward to hiking again soon. I am trying to get into shape for my rim-to-rim hike of the Grand Canyon at the end of May.

Fire Pink

Wild Geranium

Rue Anemone

Salamander

AT Shelter

Pack Hanger

Stream Near Shelter

Hennessey Zipper Hammock

Camp Privy

Haunted Cabin Remains

"Very early in the morning, while it was still dark, Jesus got up, left the house and went to a solitary place, where He prayed." Mark 1:35

2012-02-17T15:22:00.000-08:00

Stripped Bass Revisited

Me and My Fish

When I was a small boy I loved to study the life and habits of fish. I graduated from college with a BS in Biology and later a MS in Environmental Sciences and obtained a successful career in environmental engineering and marine biology. My masters thesis centered on the age and growth of the stripped bass Morone saxatilis in and around the James River and Chesapeake Bay. About a dozen of the members of Grove Avenue Baptist Church every year go stripped bass fishing around the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. This year on February 10, 2012 I had the privilege to attend this fishing trip. It was like going to see some distant fish relative I had not seen for years. Once again I would have the chance to be reunited with my stripped friends from days past. Due to the Chesapeake Bay Conservation Act we would be allowed to keep two fish each for food. Stripped bass in the Bay are called rock fish. Before I go into the details of my fishing trip experience let me tell you a few facts about stripped bass.

Fish Lesson

Stripped bass are anadramous fish living in saltwater and going up freshwater rivers to spawn or lay eggs. A 50 pound female may lay up to 5,000,000 eggs in one spawn. The most important variable in determining when the fish spawn is water temperature. The best temperature for fish to migrate is between 57 to 71 degrees. This fact will help you understand my fishing experience later. After the eggs hatch the young fish return to the saltwater for two years to grow. The stripped bass makes two migrations in the spring and the fall to return up the freshwater rivers to spawn. They are usually 30 inches in length for the first migration. At this time they have a ferocious appetite and will eat just about anything in their path but prefer other fin fish. December and January are good months to fish for the strippers as they swim upstream in the rivers. The adults may live for up to forty years and reach a weight of 100 pounds. But the norm is about 10 years old for males and 20 years old for females. An average female may lay 850,000 eggs with each spawn. On an average a 15 inch fish may weigh 2-3 pounds and be 2-3 years old, a 30 inch fish may weigh 11-16 pounds and be 8-14 years old, and a 45 inch fish may weigh 30-45 pounds and be 15-30 years old. You can determine the age of these fish by looking at the rings on a fish scale like the annual rings on a tree. When I was doing my research on the stripped bass I aged about 10 thousand fish in and near the mouth of the James River. I usually took 4 to 5 scale samples per fish. That is a lot of looking at scales under the microscope. I became very familiar with my new friends.

How do we determine where the best fishing spots are going to be to catch the biggest and best fish? I have been told that you are only allowed to keep two stripped bass on each trip and there is only a catch and release requirement within the Chesapeake Bay boundaries. Your best bet is to fish during the two upstream spawning migrating of spring and fall. Stripped bass tend to be in shallower waters at this time. The warmer the water the deeper they will go. The best time might be in December, January, or February. Look for feeding birds circling on top of the water marking a spot where birds are eating fish scraps left from the hardy appetite of the stripped bass. Fish during the first 3 hours of an outgoing tide or the last 3 hours of an incoming tide. Look for the turbulent water indicating that there are large masses of fish movement below the surface. The strippers feed the best in a temperature range of 40 to 75 degrees. If all else fails have your caption of the boat turn on his fish finder to spot the fish movements.

Fish Story

Back to my fish story. I was thrilled to be able to be with a bunch of Christians on a boat fishing for my "days gone by" friends of the past stripped bass. Two church friends picked me up about 4:15 AM to travel to a Virginia Beach for a 7 AM boat launch. We traveled in the boat north to the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. The air temperature was around 25 degrees. It was a large fishing boat with a closed in cabin to warm up in when we got cold on deck. When we reached the spot the boat made a continuous circle with the fishing lines trolling behind. We used lures because these fish are so hungry that they will bite at anything that looks similar to a fish. We trolled at several spots for several hours without any luck catching fish. We gave up on catching and keeping the fish to eat and decided to go into the Bay to catch and release fish to get the thrill of catching a big fish. Again with no luck. By this time it was getting late and we decided to call it quits and headed home. On the way back to the dock the motor in the boat quit. The captain had to radio for a tow back to the dock. We got back to the dock no worst for ware. Some of our party stopped off at a seafood restaurant to be able to at least eat some stripped bass even though they could not catch any fish.

Why didn't we catch any fish?

We went fishing in February toward the end of the fish migrations at the time when the weather has been unseasonably warm. Spawning fish like to travel in cooler temperatures. The fish sensing warmer weather approaching moved faster up the rivers to spawn leaving fewer in the coastal areas to catch. The group usually books the fishing boat well ahead of time in order to reserve it during the fish spawning times. Like all fishing trips there is no guarantee that you are going to catch fish. The group leader said that he has been doing this for ten years and this is the first time he has never caught any fish. If I am invited back next year I want to prove that I was not the unlucky banana (bananas were consider unlucky to take with you on a fishing trip).

I enjoyed the fellowship of christian men and women on this fishing trip and would do it again in a heart beat.

Isaiah 19:8 The fishers shall mourn, and all they that cast angle into the brooks shall lament, and they that spread nets upon the waters shall languish.

Two Short Hikes

2012-01-19T16:18:00.000-08:00

Day hikes can be very rewarding during the winter. I just completed two hikes of five miles each. What a better way to start a new year than to take a nice quiet walk in the woods and also what a better way to start getting into shape than to begin hiking during the coldest day of the year. I did just that by taking a five mile hike around the Wintergreen ski resort on new years eve and a five mile circuit hike in January during 22 degree temperature and a 0 degree chill factor. Let me share these hikes with you:

Wintergreen New Year Eves Hike

I was treated to a stay in a condo at the Wintergreen resort ski resort. Several slopes were open but I preferred to hike on the trails around the resort. Virginia has had an exceptionally warm winter this year with very few snow falls and a mild weather. The ski slopes that were open were maintained with man made snow. I had purchased a new GoPro movie camera and I was eager to try it out.

The resort perimeter hiking trail crossed several streams with waterfalls.

Video of the hiking trail waterfall at Wintergreen Ski Resort

Humpback Mountain Cool Hike

I like to start each years hiking in January. The winter weather becomes a real challenge with freezing temperatures and lots of precipitation. I can usually be on a hiking trail in an hour and a half from my home. The Blueridge Mountains are almost in my back yard with lots of circuit hikes as well as the Appalachian Trail (AT). Sometimes I begin the season with an 8 mile loop of the Humpback Rocks and the AT trails. I began the hike at 7:30 AM and the temperature was 22 degrees where the car was parked at the base to Humpback Mountain. The wind was so strong that as soon as I opened the door it blew everything that was loose in the car into the woods. I estimated the chill factor to be around 0 degrees. I was prepared for the cold temperatures. I wore hiking boots with a synthetic sock and a wicking wool blended sock on top. I had hiking pants with short gaiters to keep the wind out. A long sleeve synthetic shirt with a down vest was topped off with a hooded wind breaker. A polartec Mountain Hardware over the ears hat and gloves completed my hiking clothes. It snowed off and on during the hike but I never got cold and I wish that I could have hike longer. It was a very enjoyable hike.

On top of Humpback Rocks

A hike to the top of Humpback Rocks.

Direct my footsteps according to your word; let no sin rule over me. Psalm 110:133

Bad Branch Falls State Nature Preserve

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The Bad Branch Kentucky Nature State Preserve

The preserve is 2,343 acres that includes Bad Branch Gorge, the Presley House Branch watershed. the upper reaches of the Bad Branch watershed and a small portion of the north face of Pine Mountain. The preserve contains large concentrations of about 30 species of rare and uncommon flora and fauna as well Kentucky's only known nesting pair of common ravens. A few of the rare species are enchanter's nightshade, Fraser's sedge, painted trillium, and the long tail shrew. Black bears frequent this area. Bad Branch is classified as a Kentucky Wild River.Bad Branch flows down the south side of Pine Mountain through hemlocks and rhododendron-lined banks emptying into the Poor Fork of the Cumberland River. The area was logged in 1940 but a few old growth hemlocks were spared and thrive above the ssecond growth trees. Several old roadways are found through the area. Old rusted automobile remains may be seen along the old roadway. Large boulders can be seen all along the the mountain slopes. On the top of Pine Mountain is a big sandstone slab known as High Rock. From the top of High Rock you can see the Town of Whitesburg and the valley cut by the North Fork of the Kentucky River. A 60 foot waterfall is created by a plunge of water of Bad Branch over a sandstone cliff.

Bad Branch Hike

Early travelers used parts of the trail as a means to transport supplies to Whitesburg on the north side of Pine Mountain. The trail loops to the top of the mountain and High Rock, an extensive sandstone outcrop extending along the mountaintop. A panoramic view of the Cumberland Plateau and Black Mountain can be seen from the top.

The Trail

The trail is a 7.2 mile out and back partial loop with a side trail to a waterfall. The trail begins at the parking lot and leads northeast on an old road passing a roofed bulletin board with a map and a history of the preserve. The path crosses Bad Branch and cuts through a grove of old-growth hemlocks that escaped the loggers and then recrosses the stream again.

The trail parallels the stream for 0.7 mile where the trail branches leading to the waterfall. The trail is marked with orange blazes as it begins to narrow as you go up the hollow through second growth hardwoods and hemlocks. At many locations you pass through rhododendrons that form long tunnels. After you travel 2.2 miles you reach a high ridge and begin to start the loop and you will go over a small outcropping and curve around a boulder and onto an old logging road. Of the two arms of the loop the longest loop of 1.8 miles to the High Rock is the best to take to the top. After several old roadway and ridge crossings you come to the slab at High Rock atop Pine Mountain after 4.2 miles. On top of Pine Mountain you have a panorama to the north that includes Whitesburg and the palisades made by the North Fork of the Kentucky River. Here a large slab of stone follows the edge of the rock for 0.2 miles. The trail sharply descends back down the loop to its beginning and then to the parking lot.

Rhododrendron Tunnels

Rock slab on top of Pine Mountain

On top of High Rock

View of the Town of Pikeville

The Waterfall

Along the trail you pass a short side path to a lovely spot where the Bad Branch takes a 60-foot plunge over a cliff. This side trail goes down to a ravine and then climbs steeply through rocks before dropping to the base of the falls 0.9 miles from the branch. The cascading water makes a soothing sound as it plunges to the rocks below. If you save the falls for the end of the hike the sound of the plunging water on the rocks magically washes away all of the days hard climbs and threatens to ease your mind into a deep relaxing state.