Chypre Perfumes (Labdanum resin from Cistu Creticus is one of the three gifts the Magi ).

New YouTobe Video

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Sun, 24 Nov 2013 16:19:00 +0200

Vicky E. Arvelaki.

Rock Rose (Cistrus Creticus)

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Sun, 23 Jun 2013 20:45:00 +0300

Cistus creticus, commonly know as Rock Rose, is a perennial shrub, found on dry or rocky soils in Mediterranean area and particularly in Crete island, South Greece.

Mythology and History

Cistus Incanus Creticus.

It was known to the Greeks as early as the times of Herodotus and Theophrastus.

This plant and has been prized since ancient times as the source of the substance labdanum, also known as ladanum. This sticky resin, derived from the sap of Cistus incanus has been used for centuries as an ingredient in perfumes and incense, as well as to treat colds, coughs, menstrual problems, rheumatism, as well as for embalming and aphrodisiac purposes.

Ancient Greeks used a unique method for collecting the resin from these plants. Goats were allowed to graze among the Cistus incanus shrubs, and the resin would adhere to the hair of their coats, which was then shorn and boiled. The resin, which is not soluble in water, would eventually rise to the surface and would be skimmed off for later use. This complex and time-consuming process made labdanum a rare and highly prized commodity among ancient peoples.

Today, modern techniques have made this process much more efficient. But still today in the Greek Isles, it is collected by threshing the plants by a kind of flail from which the sticky mass is scraped off with a knife and rolled into small black balls.

Health Benefits & Modern Medicinal uses

This plant is an aromatic, expectorant, stimulant herb that controls bleeding and has antibiotic effects. It is used internally in the treatment of catarrh and diarrhoea.

Rock Rose tea is three times as healthy as green tea and elderberry juice. It protects the heart four times better than red wine and it is an antioxidant twenty times stronger than freshly pressed lemon juice. Just a cup of tea a day is proven to stimulate the immune system significantly.

The human body requires this type of antioxidant to combat toxic substances. Scientists have found that the rock rose contains an adequate combination of these antioxidants, detoxifies the body and eliminates toxic heavy metals deriving from the smoke of cigarettes, dental fillings and environmental pollution. In addition, rock rose flower is a key ingredient in a homeopathic treatment, especially for stress.

Presently, resin’s main use is in perfume industry, as a fixative substance. It is often used in making cosmetic creams, because of its anti-wrinkle properties and shampoos, as it strengthens the hair follicle. It is also considered a sedative, astringent, heating, antispasmodic and expectorant.

The most outstanding effect of Rock Rose is its wound healing abilities. It used in any blend for healing skin issues, new or old scars, wounds, inflammation and infections. It is wonderful in blends for mature skin. It is a great anti-inflammatory and has a penetrating, deep aroma that opens up the senses.

The secret of these incredible versatile effects of the rockrose herb is the particularly high level of vitamin P, as well as certain tannic acid compounds or what we call polyphenols. Rockrose contains the highest level of these active agents of any substance known to man. These substances have a stronger antioxidant effect than the well-known vitamins E and C.

Labdanum from mediterranean Cistus species: GC-MS fingerprints and relative quantification of antispirochaetal manoyloxides

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Wed, 5 Jun 2013 22:54:00 +0300

Planta Med 2012; 78 - PA10
DOI: 10.1055/s-0032-1320325

Labdanum from mediterranean Cistus species: GC-MS fingerprints and relative quantification of antispirochaetal manoyloxides

K Kuchta 1, K Grötzinger 1, C Birkemeyer 2, HW Rauwald 1

1Pharmacognosy, Leipzig Uni., Johannisal. 23, 04103 Leipzig, Germany

2Anal. Chemistry, Leipzig Uni., Linnéstr. 3, 04103 Leipzig, Germany

Congress Abstract

The oleoresin labdanum from Cistus creticus was used in ancient Greece as incense, anti-infective, and wound treatment [1]. On Crete, the main production center since antiquity, it is brushed off the leaves with long textile strings. After the Ottoman conquest of Crete 1645, Western Europe imported Spanish labdanum prepared by hot water extraction of aerial parts of Cistus ladanifer. Shortly there- after, labdanum fell out of pharmaceutical use [2]. Presently, C. creticus leaf extracts from Turkey are applied by German self-help groups for borreliosis therapy [3]. Our results indicate that this anti- spirochaetal activity is mainly due to manoyloxides in the essential oil [3,4]. Here, 8 labdanum sam- ples were analyzed by GC-MS for these active constituents, revealing exceptionally high contents of 13-epi-manoyloxide, 2-keto-manoyloxide, ent-3β-hydroxy-13-epi-manoyloxide, manoyloxide, sclareol, and acetoxy-manoyloxide in the Cretan ones. In other eastern Mediterranean samples, the concentration of these compounds was several orders of magnitude lower, whereas Spanish labda- num is dominated by simple alkanes with only trace amounts of manoyloxide and 13-epi-man- oyloxide. Thus, discontinuation of medicinal use of labdanum in Western Europe is understandable as “labdanum” from C. ladanifer is clearly not equivalent to the traditionally harvested C. creticus drug. Rumors that C. creticus contains psychotropic THC were refuted.

References: 1. Aufmesser, M (2002) Dioscurides. Olms Verlag. Hildesheim. 2. Husemann, T (1889) Archiv der Pharmazie 227: 1075-1092/1105-1132. 3. Hutschenreuther, A. et al. (2010) Pharmazie 65: 290-295. 4. Grötzinger, K. et al. (2010) Planta Med 76: 245.

https://www.thieme-connect.com/ejournals/abstract/10.1055/s-0032-1320325

Bogner Man Limited Edition

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:09:00 +0300

By: Sandra Raičević Petrović

Bogner Man Limited Edition is expected on the market from April 2013 as a harmonious fragrance for men, reflecting the style and sports spirit of Bogner brand. The composition of the fragrance and flacon design accompany the philosophy of the brand while accentuating sporty details highlighted in a simple yet modern style.

The new, sporty fragrance accentuates optimism and pure energy with luminous citruses offering dynamic strength in the top notes. A blend of mandarin and bergamot is combined with floral notes of Litsea cubeba (May Chang) bush. A pinch of cardamom provides masculinity to the composition. The masculine character of the heart is presented with cedar wood and surrounded with subtle floral accords of jasmine, orange blossom and Egyptian rose. The base encompasses a warm and cuddly blend of tonka beans, sandalwood, amber and musk.

BOGNER MAN LIMITED EDITION

bergamot, mandarin, Litsea cubeba
cedar, jasmine, orange blossom, Egyptian rose
amber, sandalwood, musk, tonka

uicy Couture Viva La Juicy Noir.

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 20:20:00 +0300

By: Sandra Raičević Petrović

Another fragrance—a limited edition by Juicy Couture—joins the trendy wave of Noir editions. It will arrive in selected stores in July 2013, and globally from August 2013—as announced by moodiereport. Officials of the house of Elizabeth Arden accentuate that Juicy Couture Viva La Juicy Noir explores the seductive face of the original Viva La Juicy editions.

"Viva La Juicy Noir is the embodiment of the fun-loving Viva muse, who is always the life of the party. Unapologetic, she takes risks and gets rewarded. We are excited to expand the Viva La Juicy portfolio for a limited time with the launch of Viva La Juicy Noir," explains Robin Mason (Elizabeth Arden Senior Vice President Global Marketing).

Top notes of the composition await us with a juicy union of berries and mandarin, announcing the floral blend of honeysuckle, gardenia and jasmine in the heart of the fragrance.

The base closes with amber, caramel, vanilla and sandalwood.

Three wise

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Mon, 7 Jan 2013 23:15:00 +0200

Gold is symbolic of Jesus' kingship.

Frankincense is an aromatic gum resin from the scraggly boswellia tree (below left, the flowers and branches of the boswellia sacra from which most myrrh is derived) which grows in Somalia and in the southern Arabian peninsula. It is obtained by making a deep cut in the trunk of the tree, which exudes a milky juice that on exposure to air hardens into semi-opaque whitish lumps. This substance was ground into powder and burned as an incense in Temple ritual, giving off an odor like balsam. It thus denotes Jesus' future priesthood. From ancient times through the Middle Ages, frankincense was a principal Arabian trading commodity. In the ancient world it was used for religious and medicinal purposes; today, it is an ingredient in incense and perfumes.

Myrrh (above right) is a reddish-brown resinous material, the dried sap of a number of trees, but primarily from Commiphora myrrha, which is native to Yemen, Somalia and the eastern parts of Ethiopia, and Commiphora gileadensis, which is native to Jordan. The sap of a number of other species is also known as myrrh, including labdanum, an aromatic gum exuded from the leaves of the Cistus Incanus Creticus or rock rose. Myrrh was used as an embalming ointment and as an incense at funerals and cremations. Its oil was used in beauty treatments and was sometimes added to wine and drunk to relieve pain. As a constituent of perfumes and incense, was highly valued in ancient times, and was often worth more than its weight in gold. In Ancient Rome myrrh was priced at five times as much as frankincense.

Interview by Dimitris Nyktaris in News | Tommi Sooni.

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Tue, 1 May 2012 22:38:00 +0300

A passion for labdnamun, collecting rare ingredients for perfumery.
by Tommi Sooni

Saturday 7th April 2012

Thank you Dimitris Nyktaris for answering the below questions and for agreeing to share your passion with Tommi Sooni news. Many readers would be unaware that small producers of rare perfume ingredients help to enrich the fine fragrance industry.

You have a love affair with chypre but more importantly with labdanum, namely growing and harvesting Cistus creticus. How did your interest in Cistus creticus begin?

The plant Cistus creticus (with the pink flower) is everywhere in the area of Sises, Crete where I live. It’s the only place in the world where labdanum is collected the ancient and natural way.

I decided to research this plant on the internet and suddenly I found myself collecting information about Cistus creticus and labdanum. I present this researched material on my website. In my area of Crete labdanum has a strong tradition with the people in the villages and is used here in many different ways, such as traditional therapeutics.

Are there other ways to use parts of the plant, such as in soaps, medicines or tea?

Labdanum is a resin exuded by the plant Cistus creticus. In Crete traditionally its use was for illnesses of the skin and wounds. It has a sweetly balsamic perfume and can be used in perfumes, soaps and skincare. Apart from the perfume it also protects the skin. The plant Cistus creticus is a natural source of most Polyphenols. On the island of Crete the leaves are also used as a herbal tea.

Does this plant have an ancient history in Crete?

Cistus creticus has a very long history. It was recorded as being collected by the ancient cultures in various regions and was known in major ancient western and eastern cultures. Labdanum is possibly the myrrh referred to in the Bible. Many of the ointments and oils reported in The Bible are attributed to labdanum or contained labdanum as a key ingredient, such as Balm of Gilead, Onycha oil (Exodus 30:34) and according to American botanist Moldenke, labdanum and myrrh were the myrrh refered to as one of the three gifts of the wise men to Christ in Bethlehem.

Historical reports describe two ways of collection:

a. After sending their goats to graze on pastures containing Cistus creticus the shepards would extract the labdanum collected on the hair of the goats chins by combing the hairs.

b. Flailing the plant itself with a ladanistirio, an ancient wooden and leather tool. This was the original harvesting technique used.

These methods are natural and are still used in my region. Both methods were described by Dioskurides and Herodotus. The false beards of Pharaohs were taken from the hair of the goats! The image of the ladanistirio was also a religious symbol, seen held up by the kings of Egypt in their hands.

Cyprus (Chypre in French): In Cyprus, the Cistus creticus plant grows naturally and in the summertime the sweet scent of laudanum drifts through the island. The Romans made a perfume from laudanum and named it, Chypre. The Crusaders when they conquered Cyprus made a perfume from labdanum and they also gave it the name Chypre. The perfume ‘Chypre’ (Coty,1917) contained labdanum.

Crete: Because of the changing climatic conditions, the area around the abbey, including the small villages, in northern Crete is the epicentre for harvesting labdanum.

How is the resin from Cistus creticus collected today? Do you use modern harvesting methods?

The "modern" methods are industrial extraction and they do not have a long history.

They cut the plants of Cistus and they boil them in big cauldrons of water with chemicals. The resulting product is not as pure and doesn’t have the same scent. By boiling the plants a lot of the volatile components are lost. The laborious method with the ladanistirio is the ancient method and gives pure labdanum (Holy Incense). Labdanum collected with this method is a genuine, natural product and its perfume is unique.

I am impressed by your passion for Cistus creticus. It is people like you who are often forgotten when we think of beautiful perfumes. Your harvesting of one of the raw ingredients required to make rare perfumes continues the relationship between nature and perfume that has continued for thousands of years.

My passion resulted from my family environment. My family has a long history with local products of the region and one of them is labdanum. We insist on allowing the plant Cistus creticus to grow everywhere in the region because it allows us to collect the resin the natural way.

The modern way of manufacturing labdanum is done with chemistry. It is achieved with the use of boiling. Through this way of extracting all the volatile components are lost and the resin has no relationship with the natural resin extracted by hand!

Do you sell your products to mainly independent perfumers or to larger international companies?

Labdanum, exuded by the plant Cistus Creticus has a rare and unique perfume with no danger to the skin.

It constitutes as a very good stabilizer for perfumes. Whoever wants to discover and use labdanum in their perfumes can find details through my website. Natural products in perfumery are very infrequent materials. Personally I sell to independent perfumers.

Are there other farmers on Crete who also harvest this plant or are you unique?

The collection of labdanum resin from the plant Cistus Creticus is a very difficult and laborious job that is done during the day under the sun and in high temperatures. A lot of farmers go up in the mountains for this work. It is hard work and the farmers can’t gather large quantities in one day. The period of harvesting is only one and one half months, therefore we need a lot of workers.

Do you make your own perfumes?

I have worked only with labdanum from Cistus creticus, creating labdanum concrete and labdanum absolute.

The perfume of labdanum is very warm and rich, giving a very sweet odour that has a strong and sweet scent. It belongs in perfume base notes. It has a typically balsamic odour, rather flowery, herbaceous, amber-like and very tenacious. The absolute derived from the species growing in Crete is the finest, the most amber-like and the least coloured.

I have made perfumes for myself and in cooperation with other perfumers from around the world: with Anne Walsh from Brazil and Pierre Bénard from France. Also perfumers from the USA, Australia, India, Russia, Asia and Europe. I have made labdanum soaps and I would like to make other labdanum cosmetics because they are healthier than other products made with chemicals.

Where can people find out more about what you do and can they buy your products online?

My personal web page is: http://www.labdanum.gr

Nyktaris Dimitris

my Site :http://www.labdanum.gr or http://www.ladanum.gr

my Shop :Labdanum Shop

Face book profile: Dimitris Nyktaris

Footnote: thanks to Alex for his assistance with editing.

Armani Privé Ambre Orient Giorgio Armani for women and men.

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Thu, 29 Mar 2012 20:16:00 +0300

Armani launches new perfumes of the Privé collection in November 2010. The collection is named "La Collection des Mille et une Nuits," inspired by the medieval Arabic tales from 1001 nights. These three new heute couture perfumes depict the exotic mystery of the Orient with its warm, spicy and woody notes on the subject of rose, oud and amber.

Armani Privé La Collection des Mille et une Nuits icludes three perfumes: Oud Royal, Ambre Orient and Rose d'Arabie. The fragrances are exclusively designed for the Middle East market and are made as imitations of their traditional perfumery and local ingredients.

Ambre Orient is a smoky scent of vanilla and dark wood aromas of sandalwood and patchouli with thyme, labdanum and amber, spicy cinnamon and pink pepper.

It is packed in a black glass bottle decorated with a golden stopper.

Featured Review: Tom Ford Private Blend Moss Breches.

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 21:58:00 +0300

examiner.com
Sali Oguri
NY Fragrance Examiner

It's been rumored Tom Ford Private Blend Moss Breches (2007) is being discontinued, a terrible shame if it's true considering Moss Breches, along with Tobacco Vanille, is among my very favorites in the designer's ultraniche line. Among these, Moss Breches is far, far away from the mainstream scents of today. It takes perfuminess to its highest level, played up by both Chypre and Oriental notes in a single composition, decadently retro in richly subdued earth tones. It's not a fragrance I immediately liked, but it's grown on me in the same way Penhaligon's Bluebell has. Both are what I'd refer to as "animalic", with the musky notes of labdanum and oakmoss being fairly pronounced in this dark, green Chypre blend, making it challenging to wear. However, it also has a warm and sweet, spicy gourmand charm to it. Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental comes to mind, except Moss Breches is a Chypre, along the lines of Sisley Eau du Soir and Paloma Picasso, just greener, with more damp earth-and-wet leaves - the deep foresty scent attributed to oakmoss. Shiseido Koto (1985), for those of you familiar with this hard-to-find fragrance, is probably closest to it in overall scent. Another comparison might be the discontinued Deneuve (1986), with Moss Breches being drier, dirtier, heavier and sharper. This is a strange, complex scent for those unfamiliar with the scent of Chypre, a classical perfume accord brimming with tradition and an antiquated past.

Moss Breches, of course, would not be without mossiness. Oakmoss and tree moss are controlled ingredients in the perfume industry since it was declared by IFRA that these age-old ingredients turn into formaldehyde upon skin contact. Today, most of what we call moss is synthesized, but many vintage perfumes and even certain upscale perfumes do in fact contain moss. The scent, to my nose, is like that of damp autumn leaves, a bit dirty in an outdoorsy way. Many perfumes from the 1960s and '1970s featured oakmoss, such as Chanel N°19, Estée Lauder Aliage and Ô de Lancome. Actually, the use of oakmoss has been around since the birth of the Chypre fragrance family, long before the legendary Coty Chypre and Guerlain Mitsouko were born Chypre is named as such because the accord was born in Cyprus during Greco-Roman rule (Read more about Cyprus here: Cyprus the Divided Country).

Another featured note in Moss Breches is labdanum. Labdanum is a resin traditionally used in Chypre compositions. It's a black resin taken from goat hair after the goats had grazed on the rock rose shrub and resins collected on their fleece. Although I'm skeptical that most Chypre fragrances today contain real labdanum taken from goat hair, the scent has remained a staple in perfumery. It has a heavy, resinous and almost woody, as well as animalic, scent, and acts as a fixative for perfume compositions (base note), making perfumes last longer.

Although Moss Breches smells like a traditional Chypre, I'm guessing the reason I like it so much is because it has a soft, almost vanillic aspect to it as well. The sillage is absolutely gorgeous, a dazzling mossy green. When I wear Moss Breches, I'm reminded of Japanese tea ceremony and its dark, refined green tea (which is a bitter taste/scent (and yet I love it)). According to Chypre Perfumes blog: "The Japanese use labdanum in their Neriko mixtures, which are used during tea ceremony". I guess I'm not far off at all in my perception of the scent! On the same blog, the author writes that "Egyptians used it in their Kyphi mixtures and the Hebrews burned it in their temples". Perhaps Moss Breches is the kind of scent that can bring all kinds of deeply spiritual associations to people the world over.

Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue Dreaming in Portofino and Light Blue Living Stromboli

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Tue, 27 Mar 2012 19:36:00 +0300

Dolce & Gabbana launched the famous Light Blue fragrance in 2001, followed by the men's version Light Blue pour Homme six years later. In 2012, this house presented two new editions inspired by the fantastic Mediterranean locations—coastal village Portofino and the volcanic island of Stromboli. The new versions are named Light Blue Dreaming in Portofino (for women) and Light Blue Living Stromboli (for men).

Light Blue Dreaming in Portofino

Top notes: lychee, ambrette seed

Heart: iris, osmanthus

Base: patchouli, amber, musk

Light Blue Living Stromboli

Top notes: citrus, pink pepper

Heart: aquatic notes, geranium

Base: vetiver, patchouli, amber

The feminine fragrance is available as 50 ml EDT, while the male one comes in 75 ml EDT bottles.

Iceberg Burning Ice

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:10:00 +0200

Iceberg launches a new fragrance with the contradictory name Burning Ice in spring 2012. The fragrance is built around the concept of opposites and the game between ice and fire, shapes and shadows, of innocence and sensuality. The composition is built around an aquatic accord of sea cliff, surrounded by a refreshing top and warm and sensual bottom. It belongs to the family of fougere-am...

Read full article: Iceberg Burning Ice from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Top notes: bergamot sorbet, frozen apple, cardamom

Heart: sea cliff accord, clary sage, patchouli

Base: amber, musk, vanilla

BOVET’s Llimited Edition Fragrance.

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 15:57:00 +0200

Swiss watchmaker Bovet presents a fragrance to celebrate its 190th anniversary. The perfume is produced as a 190-piece limited edition (60 ml). "For the past 190 years, the House of Bovet has been measuring the emotions of the moment, and is now choosing to diffuse these sweet memories... Just like its timepieces, BOVET’s perfume reveals a woman’s personality." "BOVET w...

Read full article: BOVET’s Llimited Edition Fragrance from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

BOVET's LIMITED EDITION

top notes:
blackcurrant buds, spirit of magnolia,
soul of cassie, veil of Parma violets

heart notes:
Moroccan Rose petals, Turkish rose pearls, c
ream of Iris from Florence, aura of ylang ylang,
smiles of Sambac jasmine, rosewood bark

background notes:
Amber stones, Madagascan vanilla pods.

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Sun, 18 Mar 2012 15:54:00 +0200

Acqua for Life 2012 - Giorgio Armani

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:09:00 +0200

The house of Giorgio Armani continues their program Acqua for Life in 2012, which assists UNICEF in procuring water for the areas lacking in drinkable water. Last year was marked by the same program launched by the company and fragrances Acqua di Gio for her and for him as limited editions. Part of the profit was reserved for charities. Read more in our article covering these editions—Acqua for Life 2011.

This year brings two new limited editions accompanying the campaign, which also ensure funds for donating drinkable water to areas without water resources. It is planned to collect 40 million liters of water by June 2012, which would assist the Smart Water for Green Schools project in Ghana, as well as the Green Cross Bolivia project.

Acqua di Gio

Limited edition 2012

Perfumer: Alberto Morillas

Top notes: orange, lemon, bergamot, lime, kumquat, jasmine
Heart: cyclamen, nutmeg, reseda, coriander, violet, sea water, apricot, hyacinth, rose
Base: amber, patchouli, cedar, musk, moss

Acqua di Gioia

Limited edition 2012

Perfumers: Loc Dong, Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion

Top notes: lemon, mint
Heart: pink pepper, jasmine, peony
Base: yellow sugar, labdanum, cedar

The above editions arrive in characteristic flacons with bluish waves. Sales of each bottle will ensure 100 liters of drinkable water for the needs of children in Ghana and Bolivia. The special limited editions are Acqua di Gio for men and Acqua di Gioia for women, which are both a part of the rich collection of fragrances by Giorgio Armani.

Givenchy Very Irresistible Givenchy Electric Rose

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 19:53:00 +0200

Givenchy presents Very Irresistible Givenchy Electric Rose in spring 2012 as the new edition of the original Very Irresistible Givenchy fragrance from 2003. The house of Givenchy has launched many variants of this perfume so far, and the last year's Very Irresistible Givenchy L'Intense was a great success.Very Irresistible Givenchy Electric Rose is announced as an aromatic-floral fragrance inspi... Read full article: Givenchy Very Irresistible Givenchy Electric Rose from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Top notes: blueberry, lemon, basil, verbena
Heart: rose, anise, violet
Base: cedar, musk

Donna Karan DKNY Sweet Delicious

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 22:16:00 +0200

Donna Karan launches the limited DKNY Sweet Delicious collection of fragrances in the spring of 2012. The collection contains of three sweet scents: Pink Macaroon, Tart Key Lime and Creamy Meringue. The fragrances are inspired by recipes for creamy and delicious cupcakes.DKNY Sweet Delicious Pink Macaroon is a gourmand scent of yummy almond macaroons, refreshed with fruity flavors. It opens with... Read full article: Donna Karan DKNY Sweet Delicious from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Hugo Boss Orange Charity Editions 2012!!

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 19:06:00 +0200

Hugo Boss launches two fragrances with unchanged compositions in new flacons intended for charities. One profit share from men's and women's limited editions for 2012 will be donated to UNICEF.

Read full article: Hugo Boss Orange Charity Editions 2012 from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Esxence Milan 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 21:34:00 +0200

MARCH 29 - APRIL1 MILAN
PALAZZO LA PERMANENTE

Esxence is an annual exhibition of niche perfumery which takes place in Milan every spring. This year the exhibition will open its doors to industry specialists, sellers, buyers and press for the fourth time. Esxence is the right place to get fresh perfume news and meet perfumers and famous people from the industry. Along with dozens of fine Italian brands, Esxence attracts independent artists and distributors of their products from all over the world.

Read full article: Esxence Milan 2012 from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Global Art of Perfumery 2012 in Düsseldorf

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Tue, 10 Jan 2012 21:27:00 +0200

For the fourth time, at the Maritim Hotel in Düsseldorf on 14 - 15 April 2012, all attention will be on fine fragrances and perfume trends from around the world. The Global Art of Perfumery – Cosmetic Innovations, which has established itself as a major industry gathering, expects around 60 international perfume suppliers for the upcoming event, who will present their latest creations a... Read full article: Global Art of Perfumery 2012 in Dusseldorf from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Happy New Year 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Fri, 6 Jan 2012 21:12:00 +0200

Osmotheque, The Perfume Museum

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Mon, 1 Aug 2011 22:13:00 +0300

The Osmothèque was founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and several French perfumers. The idea was to create a house of perfumes. A fragrance museum. Maybe even a perfume shrine. But definitely a place where perfumers and perfume lovers could meet, discuss, rediscover and recreate perfumes that they have loved and maybe even worn. At the moment 2,500 fragrances have found a home in the Osmothèque which is located on the grounds of the ISIPCA in Versailles. 400 of the archived perfumes are so-called long lost ones and pride and joy of those working on the project of adding more and more perfumes to the fragrant library.

So far the Osmothèque has managed to acquire 170 formulas in order to recreate perfumes that can no longer be found anywhere. Recreating a fragrance that ceased to exist decades ago is a difficult and time-consuming process as some ingredients that were readily available many years ago can no longer be easily obtained. But thanks to Jean Kerléo, the former long-term in-house perfumer of Jean Patou, who kept some of the rarest and most expensive perfume oils, the perfumers' tedious task of getting their hands on rare oils is lessened.

Those rare ingredients, along with the perfume collection, are stored safely in the Osnothèque's cellar which is constantly cooled down to a chilly 12 degrees Celsius (53 degrees Fahrenheit). This is very important as sunlight and high and altering temperatures are the biggest enemies of perfumes and would spoil the fragrant juices in no time. In order to protect the perfumes from enemy number 3, oxygen, the Osmothèque uses argon to keep their perfume bottles, vials and other containers carrying fragrances or oils, safe from oxygen.

Argon is known to halt and even prevent the process of degradation of chemicals and has been used to preserve several manufactured items, e.g. pharmaceutical products, for a long time. On the rare occasion that a perfume does spoil, the Osmothèque will try to replace it. But as funds for the day-to-day running of Osmothèque come from the Société des Amis de l'Osmothèque only, it is important to have solid business relationships with perfume houses from all over the world, explains Patricia de Nicolaï, who is the president of the Osmothèque and a well-known and established perfumer herself.

The aim of the Osmothèque is to have as many perfumes as possible. While they do not focus on limited editions, the perfumers and assistants try to acquire classic and modern perfumes and expensive and budget fragrances alike. Therefore they always keep an eye on the market. With the help of many international brands that send fragrant gifts to the perfume museum, the fragrance library grows constantly and the second site has already been set up!

The New York base of the Osmothèque is run by Christophe Laudamiel. He is currently in possession of a small part of the collection which enables him to perform lectures. Besides recreating fragrances professional lectures are a main part of the Osmothèque's perfumers' jobs. The subjects are as multifaceted as perfume itself. They range from broad overviews of the world of perfume to specific requests like the history of British brands, speeches about fragrance families, materials, noses and simply anything that the listeners are interested in. Only one thing is for sure: Once a lecture on a certain subject is booked, the lecturer will be well prepared!

Some excursions are open for the public as well! The Osmothèque in Versailles welcomes those who are interested in perfumery on Wednesdays and Saturdays. As there is a limit on the number of people that can attend a class, it is necessary that your ticket is booked in advance! On the Osmothèque's web site you will find the dates and times when public excursions take place. In order to book please call the telephone number 01.39.55.46.99 in France.

On a personal note I would like to thank Patricia de Nicolaï and Sophie d'Auber for a pleasant interview and for providing Fragrantica with all the information. Merci!

Images: Osmothèque's web site, Fragrantica from Esxence, Milano 2011 (video & images), jafsegal

Plant Pdysiology

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Tue, 7 Jun 2011 22:16:00 +0300

* Copyright © 2010, American Society of Plant Biologists

A copal-8-ol diphosphate synthase from the angiosperm Cistus creticus subsp. creticus is a putative key enzyme for the formation of pharmacologically active, oxygen-containing labdane-type diterpenes

1. Vasiliki Falara1 (vfalara@umich.edu),
2. Eran Pichersky1 (lelx@umich.edu) and
3. Angelos K. Kanellis2,3 (kanellis@pharm.auth.gr) (http://www.pharm.auth.gr/kanellis)

+ Author Affiliations

1 University of Michigan, Ann Arbor;
2 Aristotle University

1. * Corresponding author; email: kanellis@pharm.auth.gr

Abstract

The resin of Cistus creticus subsp. creticus, a plant native to Crete, is rich in labdane-type diterpenes with significant antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities. The full-length cDNA of a putative diterpene synthase was isolated from a C. creticus trichome cDNA library. The deduced amino acid sequence of this protein is highly similar (59 - 70% identical) to type B diterpene synthases from other angiosperm species that catalyze a protonation-initiated cyclization. The affinity-purified recombinant E. coli expressed protein used geranylgeranyl diphosphate as substrate, and catalyzed the formation of copal-8-ol diphosphate. This diterpene synthase was therefore named CcCLS (for Cistus creticus copal-8-ol diphosphate synthase). Copal-8-ol diphosphate is likely to be an intermediate in the biosynthesis of the oxygen-containing labdane-type diterpenes that are abundant in the resin of this plant. RNA gel blot analysis revealed that CcCLS is preferentially expressed in the trichomes, with higher transcript levels found in glands on young leaves than on fully expanded leaves while CcCLS transcript levels increased after mechanical wounding. Chemical analyses revealed that labdane-type diterpene production followed a similar pattern with higher concentrations in trichomes of young leaves and increased accumulation upon wounding

Diesel Only The Brave Captain America

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Sat, 21 May 2011 08:49:00 +0300

Diesel continues its tradition of limited editions of the perfume Only the Brave from 2009, which attracted attention with its unique bottle shaped like tight fist. After the original edition, several limited editions were presented: Only The Brave by Bunka 2009 Only The Brave Iron Man 2010 Only The Brave Music Animations 2010 Just like 2010 edition Only The Brave Iron Man, a...

Read full article: Diesel Only The Brave Captain America from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

Jasmine in Different Cultures

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Fri, 20 May 2011 09:23:00 +0300

Your scent enchants me Every time I get close to you Oh beloved Jasmine. A time in our lives comes when we fall in love and everything feels beautiful. But this probably is not the first time of our life and love stepped in even before so... Recall the day, when as a child, you saw the rainbow and smelled flowers for the first time. What did you feel? The stars shone ...

Read full article: Jasmine in Different Cultures from Fragrantica Perfumes and Colognes Magazine.

DOCUMENTARY OF LABDANUM

noreply@blogger.com (Nyktaris Dimitrios) — Sun, 15 May 2011 17:16:00 +0300