The Usual Suspect

Climbing videos to keep you entertained

2009-11-18T10:30:00.008Z

Update: 18/11/09: modified some text and re-linked a video after a mix-up.

Some mid-week entertainment for you all - but you might want to give up some time to go through these, this is a compilation :) Note, this was written up in an evening, not during work time so you can be glad that I'm actually in work as this is published.

Via ClimbingNarc.com, check out the Mammut comp in Salt Lake City. For an idea of just how strong you could possibly ever get, watch the last few minutes of the Men's Final....

Excellent Women's Final also:

A really good interview with the infamous Chris Sharma (from when he visited Sweden), interviewer isn't great but he is just a volunteer climber so does pretty well (from ClimbingNarc again). As always, great insights from the top of climbing, if only most top-end sports stars were as grounded. And amusing to note that he didn't climb for two months while building his house, and still came 3rd in the World Cup comp :)
Interview 1:

Interview 2:

Interview 3:

Setting your own problems on an indoor wall and need psyche/ideas for pushing yourself? check CATSclimbing, one of the new bouldering walls in Boulder, Colorado. Video footage of their problems on the wall up to V14 (and yes, one of the non super-heroes repeating them).
E.g.:

Organic from James O'Connor on Vimeo.

For a chillout, courtesy of Joe Kinder's blog:

Climbing, Natalija Gros - Le Tango Vertical from Film IT on Vimeo.

Chris Doyle, a UK-based climber has been putting out some great movies. The first and now well-known (after UKclimbing linked to it, it now has supposedly had over 26,000 views) is of Rich Simpson training for the even more famous Action Directe (9a) in the Franenjura, aptly called Obsession. Lesson from all this: if you dedicate to anything, it pays off!

Obsession from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

and his other footage from Cresciano (warning, each is 30 minutes long and much of it is worth watching). The other young UK star, Tyler Landman, appears regularly to tick off most of the problems on his first go. Stronnnggggggg:
Part 1:

The Power and The Glory Part 1 from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

And Part 2:

The Power and the Glory Part2 from Chris Doyle on Vimeo.

Enjoy.

An education

2009-11-16T13:41:00.001Z

Unknown climber on 'Captain Hook', Plantations, UK

Everything I do seems to be an education these days. I'm studying to be a secondary teacher and learning the subtleties/tricks/skill of standing in front of a bunch of teenagers and advising/educating them in ICT/technology (quite good fun as it happens, especially as I realize some of them were only born the year that I got my 1st mobile phone - they don't know a time without the internet or mobiles! But that's a whole other discussion for a different location :), an education in the theory of actualy education (and not just going into a classroom and reading off a Powerpoint), and an education in how weak I am, but also in how much stronger I could (and will be).
These are all potential positives though and I'm working my ass off to get better at all. I'm not sure which one is the more challenging, but it probably falls into the strength/power camp - I seem to really struggle at putting on muscle so once a route gets thuggy, I'm having to dig really deep. Teaching is tough but the pupils are kittens in comparison to some of the places/things I've seen/done!

It's pretty humbling opening eyes to new ideas and methods though - Amazing to see how many climbers here can comfortably do moves that I thought were only for the true super-heroes. You have to be willing to expand your thoughts to new concepts and ideas. Even climbing at new climbing walls, The Foundry and The Climbing Works, is a new experience with different route setters to give challenges. The Works is awesome for gritstone and Font-style climbing, the Foundry seems to work more for general route-style. Every session is a killer, I leave with my arms/back/shoulders hanging off me, but it's a happy feeling and I know that I'm improving with every session. Of course, it's the beginning of winter now so I'm making plans already for next summer - I've a few route goals that I aspire to - and to help me realize my goals, this winter's focus is strength and power, lots more of it.
For anyone interested also, now is the time to be making and setting goals for yourself for next summer. Always wanted to climb that route of xyz grade, why not start preparing now for it? Naomi is proving right now the benefit of training, I'm blown away by her progress from the use of the set of Rock Rings in the past 6-8 weeks. In her words, even the smallest rungs seem big now! For me even, I've been trying a few things that I never really imagined as do-able and am already pretty close to the point where I can consider doing it - a good reminder to always want to improve.

One interesting note from watching the other climbers is that my ideas of how to do certain problems or movement is more open than most (I rarely take beta before a route attempt and yet seem to do just as well as many of the route climbers here who practice heavily) - probably due to all the different locations and types of rock that I've climbed on over the years. Always knew I'd justify all that travel somehow ;)
On a more serious note, it's a good example to all of the importance of seeing new ideas, not just in climbing. I've been trying to integrate that into my teaching as well, some of the pupils seem to really appreciate it which is great!

we came, we saw, we climbed - Fontainebleau

2009-11-01T19:47:00.001Z

the beauty of Font problems. Learning how to move off holds like the one above. Sorry, forgotten name of climber

The title describes it best. I'm just back from a week in Font. Short descriptions will suffice for it all:
- social: (lots of Irish and loads of my new Sheffield gang around). Awesome! The photo below shows about a third of the group.

- positive: I got the all-clear from the physio only the week before about my wrist (which I alluded to here and have had since Indian Creek, early June). Didn't need any ibuprofen as recommended by the physio too, sweeeeeet :)
- pysche!: watching some of the Sheffield gritstone climbers hang off things that I didn't even realize were holds (see top-most photo as a mild example). Took me over an hour to do the same problem, some of these guys were doing it as a warm-up. Lesson learned? I can hang off the smallest edge, but have a lot to learn with slopers.
- circuits: related to the wrist. I was told to start slow, so multiple easier problems seemed the order of the day. The Font circuits were ideal and the perfect intro. 30+ problems per day seemed like an ideal intro for the first few days. Thanks to Judith for that one.
- chatting: sitting down every evening and chatting about random life with a bunch of close friends. Especially thanks to Dave, Caroline, Judith and Tim for that one in our gite!

And finally, did I mention The Mighty Boosh? Dave, I'll leave you to elaborate on that one ;)

Bodes well for the winter months now too. Dave is showing tons of motivation for a winter of bouldering so that we can transfer it all onto routes next Spring. Bring on the punishing training schedule for the forthcoming months! Psyche!

The beauty of Font: learning to stand, and move, between holds when it's all down to the subtleties of movement and friction

Climbing going more mainstream in Ireland

2009-10-15T21:44:00.000+01:00

as seen in Irish Times last weekend........they're under the Gadget category :) What does that say? And yes, just a boring random post for a Friday morning.
Have a great day y'all :)

Great happy movie - positive vibes everybody!

2009-10-15T19:43:00.000+01:00

Just sit through the first part, it's not what you think :) But it is a brilliant idea....

Thanks to my buddy, John Bourne, on Facebook for this one......

National Lead Climbing comp

2009-10-10T17:19:00.000+01:00

Probably a bit late for it now (it was broadcast live but I was going climbing myself so forgot to publish it here - oops :) but you can watch the playback of the comp below - just select 'on demand' and you'll have a selection of clips.

Congrats to the organisers, PlayAtHeight and the MCI for putting in the effort, sounds like it was a great event!

A new era in online movies and how to retrieve them

2009-10-07T09:39:00.003+01:00

BigUpProductions have put their new movie, Progression, up for sale last weekend. It's $29.95 for the DVD (excluding postage, but you do get extras and subscription to Climbing Magazine for USA citizens).
But, and here's the really neat part, it's also available for download in high definition.
And it's only $19.95.
Which is currently only €12 cause the US dollar sucks against the Euro right now.
So why haven't you bought it yet?

Some caveats, you don't get the Extras (fine with me) or the subscription (which wouldn't have worked for me here in Europe anyway). It's about 2GB in size so make sure you've got a good internet connection.

Finally, in a hugely brave step, the movie is being supplied without any security or copying restrictions so you'll never have hassles copying it from home computers to your laptop for your next road-trip for motivation. Be nice, and all buy a copy of it - don't give a copy to all your friends without question (although use common sense - if your friends in your house want to watch it, treat it like a normal DVD and share it!). A lot of people may acquire their music through alternative means (even if there is free ways to source music), but support the sport that you love and the people promoting it.
It's not expensive and for the amount of work that must have gone into it, it deserves the payback.

And of course, is it any good? Pretty eye-opening of what is possible and the future evolution of climbing. The intro sequence of (who else) Sharma on his new short 9a+ in Spain is outrageous (put it up there with his other classic footage in other movies - Just Do It, Rampage, etc.) and the footage of Patxi UBabcdefghijkl (I'm not even going to try and spell it :) is insane. 2500 holds when he's training, and much of it with a 20 pound weight belt on. Every day. I'm sooo inspired just thinking about that.

I haven't watched it fully yet so stay tuned for a full review.

National Lead Climbing Competition - make the trip!

2009-10-06T10:52:00.000+01:00

I've already posted about this on IrishClimbingCoaching, and there's loads of mentions of it on the climbing.ie forums so thought I'd give one final plug for the event. Hopefully as many of you as possible will be down to support the event, it's the first of it's kind in a long while and will only become a regular event if we can all support it. I can only imagine that there's a lot work involved to run an event like this, and with international route-setters being brought in, not cheap either!

Having said that, I won't be there myself due to work commitments not making it possible to make a flight home at a reasonable hour - not that I genuinely wasn't interested in going along to compete and support the event. But if you're in the country, hopefully you can make it down. I know for me, I'd be very inspired to take part in a leading comp over a bouldering comp!

For anyone nervous of a comp, don't worry about it - it'll all just be a bit of fun and a good experience for all - I would be more than willing to guess that everyone else will be in the same boat. And from hearing reports that two Irish climbers took part in the European championships in Ratho a few weeks ago (see the current BMC magazine for a photo of Eddie), I'd say that's more nerve-racking than a fun comp back home!

I'll look forward to hearing some great reports after the event!

Live from Sheffield

2009-10-05T21:39:00.000+01:00

So, I'm safely set up in my new location for the forthcoming 9 months and after surviving over 6 weeks without any climbing (due to a wrist injury) I've been slowly working my way back up to full capacity once again. Well, I was until this weekend at least where temptation eventually won over and started climbing everyday that is :)

The top picture pretty much says it all - my skin is non-existent, and that was before starting off on gritstone. So, a week after the above incident happened and I still haven't recovered - the people who invited me climbing......when are we going again?! to say my motivation is back, is an understatement....

So, in the past week and a half, I've been checking out some of the local areas, both outdoors and indoors (partly to reduce my mileage in the car, and I'll get more out of the indoor wall sometimes). So far, The Roaches (see above photo :), Raven Tor (wow......!!!!!! - a few projects already found but looks like I might be too late in season), Climbing Works (Jeebus, it's frickin' huge! and the system board is eye-opening), the Foundry (great route-setting and almost seems like a better wall for pure training?!?!? probably Moffatt's influence :) and Burbage (again, see above photo for an idea of it's influence).

Initial impressions? There is a serious quantity of people climbing at a very high level here (one guy described himself as a punter by 'only' bouldering Font 7c :) which will be interesting to see whether there's all the elitist issues that go with that or not. But on a way more positive note, there's loads and loads of super-motivated people, and they're all willing to share/introduce/motivate/psyche/travel so it's pretty good so far. Definitely missing some people and some of the fun things from Ireland but there's other things that off-set it too. To top that off, the fingerboard in our house has only got rungs that are one-joint or smaller which gives an idea of potential personal progression or injury while here....hmmmm......trying to avoid it currently but not succeeding (especially after buying my copy of Progression!).

The new local training venue, 10 mins walk from my front door

Gareth showing how it's done on one of those slopery gritstone problems (7a+ or something)

Word Cloud: What's my blog about?

2009-09-29T16:51:00.001+01:00

What a neat tool! Pierre got me onto this site, Wordle, after publishing his own image on his last post. I just stuck my blog into the application and this is what I got back.
For those who haven't seen a 'word cloud' before, the larger the word, the more regular it's used on the site.

A fair description? And I'll keep this post short after the last few very rambly ones :)

Hope everyone is having a great super-positive week!

does access to bolts help?

2009-09-28T17:31:00.001+01:00

Back in 2008, I was involved in bolting two routes in Ireland. If you want more info, feel free to read the article here on Climbing.ie forums about it. I'm not going into more details, there's enough there about it (although all additional ideas welcome on other people's perspectives/thoughts, both positive and critical of what's happened).
Sadly, and as usual, nothing more has come of the incident and whoever caused the chopping has kept their head down. A pity, I genuinely wanted to hear the reasons for the logic - I'm yet to hear anything reasonable for what happened. Oh well, at the end of the day, I don't particularly care as there's way more important things in life to be distracted or bothered by! I will compliment all those that DID reply though, and those that I spoke to in person about it, it was a fascinating discussion and definitely gave me some new ideas on climbing. I thought about putting this on the forum, but hadn't written a post in a while..... :)

One of the most interesting was in relation to the query (from more than one person) about whether you really need access to bolts, i.e. sports climbing, to improve. I rolled it around as a thought quite a bit and was thinking of some points. Firstly, what to other people think? do you feel like you'd improve, or have more incentive even, to climb or want to improve if you had access to more sports routes? Answers in the comments below (or on the climbing.ie forum).

Personally, I've gotten to quite a respectable level without having any regular access to bolts. Yes, it's definitely possible but I will say that it's much harder. I can think of countless trips I've wasted having spent much of time getting re-adjusted to the intensity of the climbing. There's only so much simulation you can do without trying your hand at the real thing. Look at it from another sport's point of view - I can guarantee you that Usain Bolt didn't train for the 100 meter sprints on grass and over a distance that wasn't 100 meters! I'm sure he actually did do lots of training on different surfaces and distances but a large proportion of his training/preparation would've been on the Real Deal.

Having said that, much of climbing training is about just getting really strong and fitter. These parts you can definitely work on - you just need to put the time in to get to this level. There's no magic pill or exercise you can do, so long as it's relevant to climbing and you do a lot of it. But that will be the subject of another post or two (if I ever finish them :) and probably for IrishClimbingCoaching :) But more locations like this will help some people to keep progressing!

Personally, the biggest difficulty for me after going away and pushing myself on routes, then returning is that you easily lose motivation as the level of difficulty on trad routes is lower (on the trad grades I'm willing to try for safety reasons, etc.). Interestingly, I noticed when looking up the blog post on my first grade 8 back in Asia that I also mentioned a lack of bolts in Ireland :) I know I struggled to even contemplate climbing after coming back from my first year-long trip - I barely climbed at all for months when I came back, and it wasn't because I was burnt out, if anything, I was more psyched than ever! I trained really hard for about 4 months before going on that first long trip and while it all paid off, it's hard to justify to myself even to keep doing on a regular long-term basis if you're continuously aware that there's no routes to try out the capabilities nearby.

The longer you do anything, the more stimulus that's needed and I'd be willing to bet that I know more than one or two people in the climbing scene (not just Ireland) that have quit as they haven't had an outlet for their motivation.
In short, yes, you can keep pushing and pushing and training away - and I'm fully aware that my own laziness at times has held me back, not just a lack of bolts - without any real access to bolted routes. But it's a hell of a lot easier if you do! Having moved to Sheffield recently, I've now realized I'm going to have access (<45 mins away) to routes and problems that can seriously test me and I know I'm going to learn a lot from having the local knowledge! psyche!!!!!!

Image Credits: Naomi playing on the boulders near Doolin in her new super-bright t-shirt from the Celtic t-shirt shop.
The new wall in Dingle, Co. Kerry. PlayAtHeight, an inspiring new wall for the south-west of Ireland

Review of Thoughts on 'bare-foot' running

2009-09-15T23:42:00.002+01:00

O.k. so not an exact review of a specific model of footwear but having seen so many different reports and articles, especially in the main-stream papers and magazines regarding the new Vibram FiveFingers, I thought it was worth putting together my own experiences from using a pair of Nike's (the Free range) equivalent model for the past few years, here's my own thoughts.

Honestly, in my completely unscientific view of them, there may actually be something to this. I actually fell into the trap myself of buying some of the top-of-the-range models over the years thinking that the best-of padding would be of benefit my body with multiple miles of running. However....as studies are showing (there's one linked off the Wired Magazine one above), the cheaper versions are actually better. There seems to be a change of running style that comes with running and padded running shoes, something that we never had to deal with before the early 70's. It's mad, that means we've been running in padded shoes for 40-odd years, and about xxx,00000 years before that without isulation. Hell, the first 4-minute mile was run prior to this...

My own experience? I've been wearing pairs of Nike Frees (2nd pair now) since mid-2004 when the local Nike outlet store started stocking them for a the ridiculously silly price of €20 (they're currently only €20-30 for anyone interested in Ireland and get themselves to Kildare....). My own method, after mixing and matching, was that if I run four times a week, two of them will be in each type. As confirmed by my recent attendance at a foot specialist, I have very little fat content in general so padding in my feet is non-existent which leads to a lot of loading on my knees (and pain for years) so I don't think I'd ever go almost-barefoot-running regularly. But I still always remember from when I was a kid of going around bare-footed while living in Israel and finding the freedom that went with it. So a balance of twice a week seems to work for me. I definitely agree with some of the reviewers though, that there is a definite feeling of lightness/spped after you've run in them for a while - no idea why though, but having come back from a run this evening in them after being in my normal trainers last night, there is a definite difference (although make sure to read my last paragraph if you do decide to get these).

At the end of the day, there is no exact solution for everyone. But if you're looking for something a little different and think the idea of running more, eh, free sounds more appealing, it might be worth checking them out.

Note: To anyone who does consider getting a pair of the Nike's or the Vibrams, I cannot emphasise enough to start off slowly. Even now, when I start wearing the Free's again, I start off with short 1/2 mile runs and build up over a few weeks, and ideally on a dirt track instead of tarmac, to begin with. Seriously, it's a major shock to going with padding, to as good as none. And from the photos I've seen of the Vibrams, there's even less rubber on the soles of these! Also, yes, it is normal for your calves, etc. to feel tighter at the beginning!

Photo credit: My Nike Free's folded up in front of my 'normal' running shoes. Basically, the rubber sole is super thin, and cut across and length-ways to make it as light and flexible as possible...

Rated 4/5 on Sep 15 2009

Vote on Neal McQ's Reviews at LouderVoice

Review Tags: running, vibram, barefoot, nike free, fivefinger

Reflections after Ceuse

2009-09-11T13:00:00.000+01:00

Future stars. Super-kids showing us all how it's done on every climb of every difficulty you can imagine :)

I read a fascinating article recently about the fact that in soccer, back in the late 1900's, that passing was frowned upon in the game! As the game evolved, it turned out that the original principle had been for loads of attackers and that much of the game revolved around solo-playing. But the sport evolved and is now the amazing, and hugely popular version that it is now.

Climbing is going through tons of these changes/adaptions right now. The sport is still relatively new so standards (think about it, trad is only 150-odd years old and sport is only 30-ish?) and methods of climbing/improvement are rapidly changing and adapting. It's been over 6 years since I was last in Ceuse, and wow, what a change. Back then, for me, 8a was mind-boggling, and while lots of people were climbing this level, it wasn't that regular, and 8b's and c's were serious. Interestingly, I met the original owner of the local climbing wall at Ceuse and he said that in the past three years, he's seen a massive jump in standards.
What do I mean by this? Mayan Smith-Gobat hints at this in her blog, 6 people climbing her project 8b in the space of 5 days (one of them a Swiss girl ONSIGHTING it!). Or Alex (left in the top photo), the 15-year-old Polish kid who ran around and was general inspiration for all (see photo of the large crowd watching Alex's attempted final redpoint of Les Collonettes, 7c+, on his last day below). And the fact that Carte Blanche, at the stout grade of 8a, had several people attempting it every day (to the point that it was actually hard to queue for it) and that the 8b/c? beside it was having regular ascents/attempts on most days. Now these grades have all been climbed for years, but the difference is that loads of people are climbing these grades now. It's amazing and inspiring and a whole new reason for me to keep pushing and challenging myself!
By the way, those kids above? They all climb 7c and above! Super inspiring!

In the middle of all that, and ironic that I'm writing this piece after a whole paragraph about grade improvements, that there were still loads of people climbing and trying at every grade in the spectrum. Pretty much every grade 6 in some areas got at least a few ascents every day. Truly inspiring. And the wonderful part is that there still isn't a huge emphasis on what grade you're climbing. Yes, you feel a bit intimidated at times by whatever everyone else is climbing, but everyone is super-motivated for each other and in many ways, discussions about grades only crop up if you bring them up yourself. The lesson is for everyone that no matter what grade you're climbing, just get out there and as long as you're looking motivated, people will get behind you :)

This whole crowd of people watched Alex having his final redpoint attempt at Ceuse. Unfortunately he didn't succeed, but he was close!

Sean Marnane working the moves on Berlin, before a successful ascent

From an Irish point of view, it's great to see people continuously working away and earning new and outstanding grades for themselves. Naomi was rocking on 6c's and ticked her first 7a. Sean Marnane showed that he's the legend with a quick ascent of one of the 7c's (Berlin?) on Berlin Sector (when's the next one going to happen?!?!? :). And Ryan, one of the new Northerners to my knowledge, was romping with some awesome sends of some 7b's onsight. Not to mention Eddie Barbour kicking ass (from reports I've heard) in Siurana earlier on in the year. I can only hope we all get chances to pass the knowledge we're all gaining onto the newer climbers coming through! and with the rise of a new National Climbing Competition back home in Ireland, hopefully people have reasons to be getting out and pushing themselves on rock and plastic.

People make a location, and a nice ending to Ceuse

2009-09-09T19:05:00.002+01:00

The gang in Ceuse - you rock!

Has it really been two months since I last updated? oops!

Anyway, I'll put a brief update on Ceuse. Basically, yes, Ceuse is still one of the best crags in the world. The location, the walk-in, the people, the sheer atmosphere, make it truly special. It had been six years since I was last there and already I'm missing the place.
For anyone wondering, yes, it's still pretty busy (but no worse than I remember it, probably due to the 45 minute-ish walk-in, but there's not much more polish (although it is noticeable on some of the classics - can't see it getting any worse though) than I remember either. Hopefully that's a good sign for the future. Realistically we're all going to have to deal with polished rock because it's not going away!

The people are still what make it though, and on that note, we had some truly special people. Chris, Chico, Robin, Chris, Mel, Dan, Sean, Ryan, Dave, Isaac, you're all legends and will look forward to seeing you somewhere in the world again! Spending each evening hanging out in the MobileHome with a bunch of friends discussing the ways of the world (short answer to many of the problems? Countries/people need to work together!) and getting motivated over a mutual passion doesn't get much better.

So, the climbing. It's just sooooo good. I genuinely love the fact that it doesn't let you hide any weaknesses here. If you suck at slabs, overhangs, run-outs, there's something here to remind you that you need to work on it more :) Awesome and nothing like a challenge.
Since it was such a long time since I'd been here, I was also able to return with some old goals that I'd aspired to. There were primarily always two: an onsight of one of the classics, and a redpoint of first ever 8a that I played on.

Firstly, the onsight. Blocage Violent, 7b+. This is one of those inspiring, proud lines that had always inspired, especially after watching Dave Graham doing it as his warm-up many years ago. I'd always thought 'someday I'll do that onsight.' So, to up the ante, I did it as a warmup myself :) All I can say is that it lives up to the quality. Fun, friendly, moves up a steep bulge, without nothing that felt too hard. Everyone should do it.
And then the redpoint. Back in 2002, with my good buddy Dave A, I played on the initial moves of Cartle Blanche (8a). It's was a bit of an intimidating line (for me anyway) - steep start with hard, big moves, and at the time, I'd never really tried anything above 7b+. I didn't even go to the chains, I just didn't mentally believe I could do it - although looking back now, I would've been capable of it (put it down to a lack of mileage on routes of this difficulty back home). Still though, it's one of the classics of Demi Lune sector at Ceuse and one of the most popular 8a's at Ceuse (8a.nu alone shows 229 ascents of it!). So, in between playing around on other routes, re-acquainting myself with other memorable lines, I worked the moves and got an idea for it. Not too bad, and the holds felt way bigger than before. Even the crux, which I'd never really worked felt straight-forward. That feeling of progression is always good, realizing that you're much stronger than before.

In the end, it ended up being a bit of a rushed ascent. Big queues on it (average of 5-6 people on it most days), and getting distracted to try other lines meant that in the end it was a bit last-minute. It shouldn't have been this way, but a badly cut finger ruined all playing on the 2nd last day (I lowered to save getting blood on the route).
And in the end, like my acquaintance Mayan Smith-Gobat from NZ (and one of the strongest climbers in that region) with her successful ascent of her first 8c on her last day there (and before her 30th birthday at that), it ended up being the last go of the trip. The first go that morning ended up with me falling off the 2nd last hold after realizing that I had no idea of the sequence and having to make it up as I went along. I was super chuffed though, as psychologically for me, I now feel like this level is onsightable in the future..... But at that time, it was a mistake and could have cost me. In the end, my finger blew up completely (dipping in chalk the whole way to the chains so that I wouldn't mark the route) and my wrist just about survived (injured for the past few months and seriously inhibiting my climbing - I've barely climbed since) for a nice send at the end of my last evening in Ceuse. Things don't get much better.

Pulling the first bulge of Carte Blance (8a), Ceuse, France

High on the final prow of Carte Blance (8a), Ceuse, France

Re-adjusting your perspectives

2009-07-06T08:42:00.004+01:00

Ultimate Routes. Steve McClure (left) and Lynn Hill both lost on a wave of rock in Gorge Du Jonte, near Millau.

Warning: long blog post! climbers only I suppose :)

So, this trip has been a new learning experience. I watched some of the Petzl Roc Trip at the weekend. The men and women's ultimate route was a whopping 90 meters long. I was just tired looking at it from the ground (and dying from a sore neck - it took about an hour per person on each attempt :).

As it happens, you can read the updated posts here (day 1 - Nina Caprez and Chloé Minoret onsight female route) and here (day 2 - Sharma flashes male route and Andrada comes close) about it and Steve McClure's descriptions of each route on the comments for this article. Seriously, to see someone climb a single pitch of 90 meters in one go is outrageous (albeit the men's route did have a sit-down rest two-thirds of the way up and as Steve pointed out, you can recover on the 7a piece). For me, it was a good reminder that just as I get used to the idea of climbing long 30+ meter pitches (most routes we've been doing abroad are shorter than this), they're already working on bigger and newer and more inspiring ideas.

It's an interesting year in climbing, Ondra and Sharma have gone to a whole new level of skill that we're all only just starting to realize. A recent article on UKClimbing pointed this out

.......This could be because European sport climbing attracts less interest over here than say, a good old British headpoint, but the reality is that, in terms of World climbing standards, Ondra's achievements are a significant step forward and an E9 headpoint isn't.

Is this the magic energy sauce? Petzl-branded energy drinks especially for the Roc Trip :)

I've been thinking quite a bit what the stand-out skill that most of these climbers has. I've watched Lynn Hill, Dave Graham, Steve McClure, Dani Andrada and a few others in random locations this year alone so would like to think I'm starting to get an idea :)
Strength is a huge factor (duh). I don't mean big muscles but rather raw strength to hang from any-sized-edge. I mean that they can basically hand one-armed from a door-frame edge (watch E11 for the demo and see the photo here of it from UKClimbing's review of it along with said picture of Dave McL one-arming on a door-frame). And from what I saw of the Slovenian National Climbing Team (yes, they're on a paid-for holiday - one of three each year - to Gorge Du Tarn :), they've all got fingers of steel and just don't get pumped on routes as they're so strong. I'd like to think that I've got pretty good finger power but in comparison to these people, I'm not even at the races. I know what my focus will be for this winter - more power and more laps on high intensity small holds. These climbers obviously have to do mileage on routes (see below) but if you're not strong enough on the holds, you just can't improve!

The second part of the skill-set is quantities of mileage on lots routes. Not just for stamina, but for the experience also - it increases your wealth of movement-knowledge by trying different moves and learning new positions (watch this video of Dave Graham and his footwork alone to get an idea of crazy, outrageous foot positioning.

And then, finally, there's just sheer mental strength. This is a willingness to just push and push and push when they're pumped, when all logic (and most likely their arms) are telling them to give up. There's also their willingness to just learn from the process and to enjoy just working and learning new moves and routes (watch the old Dosage footage of Sharma talking about not 'wanting' to climb his super-route Realization at Ceuse and just having go through the experience). To help you in this, I'd recommend The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers (Amazon link). It'll make you challenge yourself and probably realize a few insights into yourself about life in general but boy is it worth it!

For everyone else, o.k. a one-armer on a doorframe is wayyy hard but think you could even make steps towards getting stronger? And think you'd enjoy and feel more confident in your climbing if you felt stronger on holds?

All ideas welcome!!!!

Image Credit:
#1: Spot the climbers - Steve McClure on the over-hanging prow in the middle, Lynn Hill lost in rock on the two ultimate routes at the Petzl Roc Trip, Gorge Du Jonte
#2: Petzl Energy drink. Photo by Naomi

Link Credits:
#1 & 2: Petzl Roc Trip
#3: UkClimbing.com
#4: UkClimbing.com
#5: ClimbingNarc.com

Review of GreenGuru Chalkbags

2009-07-01T09:13:00.003+01:00

GreenGuru Chalkbags

While in Boulder visiting our friend Pepper, we ended up arriving on the weekend of the BoulderBoulder 10km run and there was a big festival / street-market ongoing as part of the fun. I came across this company while wandering the stalls and thought it was such a genius idea that they needed some promo/credit for their aspirations/ideas.

If you're based in the States, definitely check these guys out. They also produce a load of miscellanous bags (surf-boards - reused billboards!, laptop bags - recycled wetsuits!, shoulder bags - recycled soda bottles).

Basically, they're recycling loads of miscellaneous gear that climbers/bikers/outdoorsy-type people use. Ever wonder what happens to all those climbing ropes that are thrown away (or end up sitting in your press for who-knows-how-many-years after you've retired it). It turns out that the rope material is good for about 35 YEARS but that as we all know, we stop using the rope after only a few (and less if it's at a climbing wall or the like). So, with the support of some shops (big kudos to Prana for supporting this) which have containers that you can donate old gear (old bike tubes, ropes, fleeces, etc.), GreenGuru will take your old gear and turn it into something useful again.

I ended up buying the the chalk bag (from the 'chalk bag series' - all using climbing rope in some different/alternative form) they had on sale, that is produced from (taken from website):

ough 100% USA-Made Recycled Cotton Canvas exterior
Water-proof Bike Inner Tube rubber reinforced sides/bottom
100% USA-Made Recycled Cotton Fleece chalk liner
Carabiner Loop
Reliable Drawstring Closure with Slide Lock
Colorful, reclaimed climbing rope trim

Basically, yes, it's a chalkbag but it's out of recycled materials and it's perfectly good at it's task, no sacrifices to be made! Genius. It's big too and easily accommodates my full hand for chalking up - the fleece on the inside doesn't seem to swallow half the chalk either as I've seen in other chalk bags, it's all there for you to grab.

The only complaint I can say of it is that there's no clip for a brush but it's a small complaint that I can live without for now and wouldn't let me not promote it.

UPDATE: I must be going crazy, there is one! Although, being part of the genius design, it turns out that the GreenGuru logo itself is actually loose underneath allowing you to stash a brush. On that note, I found that it was too loose for the Metolius brush as it's too thin (mine took a plummet from 20 metres for me to find out the hard way :), but a normal used toothbrush stays in easily.

The only part of the gear that isn't recycled is the stitching and the GreenGuru logo - pretty recycled if you ask me! Great products, great idea!

Rated 5/5 on Jun 30 2009

Vote on Neal McQ's Reviews at LouderVoice

Review Tags: climbing, gear, eco, chalkbags, recyclable

Music memories

2009-06-26T09:01:00.002+01:00

I had a song on today, Wagon Wheel by 'Old Crow Medicine Show' (last.fm link and video link here, direct YouTube link at bottom of post) and I instantly relate to my very fond memories of my time in Carbondale a month or so ago and with my two awesome friends Cari and Scott (Cari is centre with the coffee, Scott is just behind in the middle). The rest of these fantastic people are those that brought us around Colorado and southern Utah and made us feel as if this was our home - I'll forever be thankful to you!
It got me thinking about music that I can relate to different memories in my life and how you'll always be stuck with fond (or maybe not so fond!) memories of a specific location or people that you were with.

I won't bore you with two examples but here's two:
- my first long road-trip around Europe with my buddies Rob and Andy will forever be imortalised by the music of 'Jimmy Eat World.' Back in the good old days of Minidiscs (remember those - still a better system than CD's?!?!) and I'm sure we must have almost worn out my player before we got home :)
- my first world trip and the supplied music of YOU because of this post :) The 'Clap Your Hands Say Yeah' track, The Skin Of My Yellow Country Teeth, will be the music for 2007. Ahhh, fond memories!

What memories can you think of? is there trips (or anything that will forever remind you of a track?)

I'm in Gorge Du Tarn

2009-06-17T11:15:00.000+01:00

View Larger Map

For anyone around France, I'm based in Gorge du Tarn (beside the town of Millau) for the next three weeks so make sure to give me a shout if you're around and keen to climb.....

Working hard in Rifle, and getting experience counts for A LOT

2009-06-15T09:59:00.001+01:00

I already described in this post what the reputation of Rifle is.
"Lots of ego among the climbers.
Hard grades.
No easy climbs.
Polished.
Honestly, some of it lived up to it's reputation but most of it didn't. The climbers we met were so friendly, coming looking for me after I'd left my shoes accidentally at the bottom of a route, throwing out advice, sharing information, warning us to move our car when they were bolting. Even the super-heroes were inspiring with a certain Dave Graham admirably going to warn some locals who were climbing with some kids that they were in a dangerous location for rock-fall and that they should move to a better location (unfortunately, said adults followed their own ego first and refused to move much to everyone's horror as they used the top-rope to knock rocks off.....).

And yes, the grades feel hard. Like most of the top-class crags in the world, Rifle does everything in it's power to show you your weaknesses. I learnt that while I'm relatively strong considering I haven't bouldered/trained in months, I'm still lacking in lots of power on routes. Anyone who has been to Ceuse or Siurana will know that for both, you'll find that if you haven't put in the effort, you won't get the payback on the routes you try. Rifle is no exception.
But there was amazing positives. As a post on Joe Kinder's blog said recently, experience on different rock does wonders for your climbing as it increases your range of techniques to use while climbing.
I've been lucky in that sense as much to my surprise, after realizing only a few weeks ago that I've climbed in 15 countries, that experience counts for a lot. I was still onsighting 5.12's in Rifle and it only came down to my experience. I'm not overly fit or super-hero strong right now but I managed to climb some routes in a style I never expected. I tried what for me is hard, a 5.13a (7c+) onsight one-day. I got 6 bolts up it before a silly mistake led to take the plummet off the route. But from there, there was only one other move that confused me enough to fall off. My experience of climbing on so many styles meant that I saw knee-bars, squeezes, presses without even thinking about it. For anyone climbing, make it a goal to climb as many different styles and locations as possible. It'll increase your range of movements exponentially.

For those of you who are having to be indoor climbers regularly, stop climbing your own problems and start trying your friend's. You know those ones that your friend does first-go but you can't even pull onto? Yep, they're the problems you should be trying more often. If you can't do it easily, it means that you can only learn something by trying them.
For those of you who are setting problems for yourself, I always had a benchmark that if I could do the climb in less than 10 goes, it was too easy. Make it a goal to set problems that challenge you, you're always getting better then and won't get stale.

Image Credit:
1) The park entrance sign for Rifle National Park
2) Onsighting the tricky 'Feline' 6c/5.11b/c - a great route for finding out what your onsighting experience level is like. Tricky from the 4th bolt all the way to the chains!
3) How more psyched and motivated can you get?!? Cari, our awesome host, STILL climbing with a ruptured tendon. Thankfully it was on the back of the hand so as long as she didn't bend her finger it was fine :)

Surviving Indian Creek

2009-06-08T05:47:00.000+01:00

I've been reading and thinking a lot recently about my own thought processes. An interesting insight happened recently - I found a piece that showed that I automatically think of the pessimistic view when it comes to something but that I'll then come up with the positives for it and let them override the negatives as I realize there's more positives. As it happens, I wrote this post in exactly the same fashion. Interesting to see my quirks showing up and learning about myself. What way do you work?

So, Indian Creek....For me, honestly, I struggled at Indian Creek. I found the climbing frustrating and sore. Jamming my feet and hands in cracks only seemed to cause blinding pain and lead to me "feeling the bones in my joints moving around" (as one person described it to me and perfectly described what I was feeling). I left with a sore wrist and a very sore ankle from stuffing them in cracks. And it was frustrating that if the crack was a perfect size for me, it didn't even feel like I was getting a work-out, but if it was too thin/fat, it felt near-impossible.

But there were loads of positives from it. I did get to experience one of the most beautiful places in the world and I did get to learn how to improve my crack-climbing technique for other locations (and have already been used at other crags where I'd least expected to). I also learnt that I'm a very 'wide' climber, i.e. I spread my body out wide and like to make the most of all features around me to climb. Climbing in a very straight line felt horribly claustrophobic for me but I also learned some new movements from it that have already benefited my climbing in other locations. And I also started to trust in Cams/Friends, something I haven't done since watching a friend badly break his ankle from one not holding a fall. So, all in all, it was a worthwhile experience and while I won't be rushing back (Of course, from my last post, it does mean that I should be going back there cause I need to put the time in - 3 days isn't going to cut it to become a proficient crack climber :)., I did find the experience truly amazing.

And who knows, maybe I'll be walking up routes in Fair Head at some point in the future!

Image Credit:
1: Indian Creek taped gloves. An interesting skill that you pick up at the Creek is the manufacture of these. They definitely make a difference!
2: Indian Creek guidebook sitting below the crag as Pepper shows us how to really climb cracks. Humbling.
3: And I thought I was fanatical about climbing. Finn the dog, chases a tennis ball 24 hours a day, every day. Psyche!!!!!
4: avoiding crack climbing in style. myself getting shut down on a 5.9!

Indian Creek is like Rifle

2009-06-06T09:28:00.000+01:00

o.k., bear with me on this one - I know that post is going to sound crazy to a lot of people! I know I'm going to get a lot of incredulous looks from this title from people who've visited one or the other, or even know what the climbing is like at either location.

Firstly, a primer. For those who don't know of either (especially non-climbers), on paper both locations are well-known in climbing circles but of very different character.
Indian Creek, about 40 minutes south-west of Moab, is a crack-climbing mecca. Basically it's giant cliffs of orange-red sandstone with perfect splitter cracks running up it. There's little or no friction on the front of the cliff, and with no edges, it means you have to climb using only the crack for your hands and feet. A very specific style exists and it's well known that anyone who visits always performs terribly until they learn how to do it.

Rifle, on the other hand, is based in Rifle State Park about 12 miles outside of the town of Rifle. It's narrow gorge, 1.5 miles long and the rock is limestone. But it's blocky and not very pockety like the limestone that most people know of in Europe.

Rifle has a very mixed reputation and quite a few people I know and have met don't like the place.
Hard grades.
No easy climbs (about 40 of the 300-odd are 5.10/6a and less).
Lots of ego among the climbers.
Polished.
Busy.
And some of it is most likely true (we visited on weekdays only to avoid the crowds). The grades do feel stiff at first and there's definite evidence of the rock getting polished. But.......
On one of my first days in Rifle about two weeks ago, we met one of the local climbers who quite definitively stated that anyone who doesn't like the place, just needs to spend more time there to get used to the place. Honestly, he was pretty blunt about it and it could be so easy to take offense. But you know what, he had a really good point. Just like Indian Creek, where for the first few days you feel like an absolute beginner climber, it's pretty similar in Rifle. My first two days in Indian Creek, I couldn't even climb a 6a/5.10/E1-ish clean, it just kicked my ass and I had to just suffer it through and gain knowledge of how to climb splitter cracks. It wasn't fun, but by the end of it, I was starting to see some sort of light about what you're meant to actually do (managed to second 2 5.11's clean).
And in Rifle, it's a similar experience. Your first few days (at least), it's hard. The routes are long, really physical and really intense (every move feels as hard as the other), and lots of the moves are amazing but tricky and not just pulling on a hold, but involving knee-bars and squeezes. It's hard going and takes a few days to get used to. Sound familiar?
Just like Indian Creek, which takes time to get used to, it's no different for Rifle..

If you're struggling on something, it usually means you need to put more time and effort in. For me, that goes at Indian Creek (another post on that soon).
What do others think?

Image Credit:
1: Pepper on Scarface (5.11), Indian Creek, Utah. Notice the lack of holds either side of the cracks!
2: Naomi on Feline (5.11), Rifle, Colorado. Notice the sheer number of blocky edges on the whole cliff.....

Other people's blogs to keep you motitated over the summer

2009-06-04T05:24:00.001+01:00

I'm a big believer in the power of getting motivation by sharing so , in that interest, I thought I'd ask everyone...

Stick your own blog addresses in my comment field for others to check out - I know a few of my regular readers and I don't know their own blogs so want to check them out myself.
don't be afraid people, I love getting motivation from others! :)

In the meantime, check out Irish & Irish-related Climbers (where are there more of these?!?!!?):
Paul Brennan
Pierre Fuentes

Great blogs for international info:
Cragbaby

and of the people who make money from climbing and are super-psyched!!!!!:
Joe Kinder: http://www.joekindkid.com/
Isaac Caldiero
Chris Sharma
Belgian Sean
Sonnie Trotter

For all the sites I've subscribed to (only takes a few minutes to scan every couple of days), here's my Google Reader public pageGoogle Reader public page. if anyone wants this, I can send you a file that you can import into Google Reader yourself.

Image Credit: Naomi onsighting a 5.11c in Mill Creek, Utah.

The 10,000 hour rule: The benefits of experience

2009-06-02T10:00:00.001+01:00

There was a post on Will Gadd's blog a good while ago about a book by Malcolm
Gladwell's called "Outliers."

Here's a general excerpt from the post and referencing one of the main
ideas in the book:

The best piece of information in there so far is the idea
that to be really good, approaching mastery, at something you have to
put in about 10,000 hours at it. The second is that there are
thresholds for natural ability; to be a successful lawyer you need to
be "smart enough," but not necessarily brilliant. To be a good athlete
you need to be good enough, but not necessarily the most talented.
They are plenty of smart people doing very poorly at the game of life.
There are plenty of climbers with natural talent who do very little
with it. Most of the really good athletes I know in any sport were not
the most naturally talented when they started, but they practiced like
demons. Maybe for about 10,000 hours...

This is something to think about. If you want to be a really good
skier you likely need about 10,000 hours of thinking about snow,
skiing in snow, rolling in it, whatever it takes to get to that level
of understanding and skill.

What a fascinating thought! Obviously some skill at whatever item you
want to achieve at (be it in a sport, hobby or work) is required, but
unless you put in the time and dedication to it, you won't achieve
your potential. This isn't to say that you must sell your soul to
whatever you do (or quit your job and go climbing for example ;), but
it does mean that the more time you put in, the better you'll do :)
As the famous Wolfgang Gullich said, "The hardest part about training
is making the first decision to do it." I know what my mantra for the
rest of the year is.....what's yours? have you some goals and
ambitions you want to work towards?

On a side note; Will Gadd's blog also got some great blog posts for
those interested - see this example basically talking about the fact that situps are pretty rubbish when it comes to developing good core strength).

Image Credit: My good friend Scott putting in the time on some technical climbs (5.11-ish) at Mill Creek, Utah

8a is the equivalent to.....

2009-05-24T05:14:00.005+01:00

From The Usual Suspect

I had an interesting chat with a friend of mine while on the road recently. He was of the opinion that 8a-5.13b-29 is the equivalent of running a 3-hour marathon. I.e. that the amount of effort it would require to prepare and train to run a marathon in under 3 hours is the equivalent to the amount of preparation required to climb an 8a. It's an interesting comparison and something that non-climbers could potentially relate to.
We don't really like to think of climbing as a sport in the same sense but I thought it was an interesting comparison. Climbing of course can have a lot of variables that might have to be accounted for either (say, different rock types, angle, etc.) that runners don't have deal with - although some runs might take place on my hilly terrain.

Honestly, I'm not sure if the grade is exactly right (haven't run a 3-hour marathon either so can't compare :) but I wonder what other people think?
And what's, say, 7a-5.11c/d-23 equivalent to ?

All ideas welcome below

Image Credit: myself training on Metolius fingerboard in my folk's house in 2007. Proof that training and preparation works!

An inspiring event

2009-05-12T08:27:00.000+01:00

Every once in a while you hear a truly amazing story. See the picture above? It's from the Open Panel discussion at the FivePoint Film Festival held in Carbondale, Colorado that I was lucky enough to visit. It's an amazing collection of people.
Starting from the right:
Lynn Hill - first ascent of the Nose in Yosemite and general all-round super climber. Of course, I arranged to get a book with her autograph on it :)
Irene Beardsley - first American female ascent of Annapurna and still after over 50 years
Kelly Perkins - heart transplant recipient who is now climbing. Amazing
Sari Anderson - Team Nike Adventure Racer
and the woman on the left, Amanda Boxtel, who suffered paralysis from a skiing accident 17 years ago and is learning to walk again. Through the absolute wonder of stem-cell research, she is now regaining control of her legs again. What a phenomenal and game-changing medical breakthrough. She has to fly to India currently as it's not officially run in the States yet but after seeing the video footage of her walking again, it's truly amazing. She still has a long road ahead of her to full normality but considering that she still rides a mono-ski and openly uses her fantastic personality to promote and support other charities, you could only be inspired.

As it happened, it was an interesting discussion and a very interesting insight into the minds of some truly exceptional people. I have no idea who was more inspiring but I know I left with a lot of insightful ideas.