The most recent shopping event was Amazon Prime Big Deal Days which took place Tuesday and Wednesday, October 10-11, 2023.

I’ll update this page when the next event is announced, which might not be until July 2024 – but we don’t know!

Amazon Prime Day is the new Black Friday. A time to shop for deep discounts on hot items. It’s dangerous though – there are deals on just about everything and sometimes the deals don’t last long enough for you to thoroughly research the items before buying.

That’s why I have been browsing the sports, outdoors, health, and fitness categories looking for the best deals on worthwhile products from trusted brands – and reviewing price history data – so I’m prepared to take advantage once Prime Day officially begins.

And I’ll be sharing my top finds right here! So check back each day to discover my favorite Prime Day cycling deals.

To access the exclusive Amazon Prime cycling deals, you’ll need to be a current Amazon Prime member. Click here to begin a 30-day free trial of Amazon Prime.

Next up: Prime Day

The next big event is not yet announced. We might be waiting until July of 2024. Based on previous years, I would anticipate the next Prime Days to fall on July 9–10 or July 16–17. I’ll update this page as soon as I find out.

Prime Day Tips

Here are some tips to make the most of your Prime Day shopping.

Create wishlists in advance.

Create wishlists in advance, filled with items you are already interested in.

You might choose to create lists based on category, or by how much you want an item. For instance, your normal wish list might be “things I’ll buy eventually” but this new wish list could be “things I don’t really need but I would totally buy if there is a steep discount.”

Open your wishlists on Prime Day and the deals will be shown there. It saves you time scrolling and clicking.

What if I don’t have Amazon Prime?

Amazon’s Prime Day is for Amazon Prime members only. Otherwise you can’t access the deals.

(You can see the deals, but you can’t purchase at the special prices unless you’re a member.)

So yes, you need to buy at least a one-month Prime membership before you can shop these deals. But it’s only $15 per month. There are plenty of cycling-related purchases where you could save well over $15 on just one item, given the potential discounts we could see.

Can I buy complete bikes on Amazon?

Yes, you can buy all types of complete bikes on Amazon and have them shipped to your door.

But before you do that, please read this guide.

Most Popular Deals for Cyclists

The hottest deals you can’t ignore!

[I will share my favorite finds as soon as the deals go live. Stay tuned.]

Deals on Indoor Trainers and Exercise Bikes

Just in time for winter, here are some great deals on everything you need for indoor training.

[I will share my favorite finds as soon as the deals go live. Stay tuned.]

Deals on Electronics

Find deals on GPS bike computers, GPS watches, heart rate monitors, and more.

[I will share my favorite finds as soon as the deals go live. Stay tuned.]

Deals on Bike Accessories

Find deals on gloves, helmets, sunglasses, and more.

[I will share my favorite finds as soon as the deals go live. Stay tuned.]

Deals on Sports Nutrition

Find deals on energy bars, energy gels, sports drinks, and more.

[I will share my favorite finds as soon as the deals go live. Stay tuned.]

Deals on Fitness and Workout Gear

Find great deals on exercise equipment and other fitness and workout gear.

[I will share my favorite finds as soon as the deals go live. Stay tuned.]

To access the exclusive Amazon Prime cycling deals, you’ll need to be a current Amazon Prime member. New members click here to begin a 30-day free trial of Amazon Prime.

The post A Cyclist’s Guide to Amazon Prime Day – The Best Cycling Deals During Prime Day 2024 appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

Goli Energy Bites may look like miniature candy bars, but they are in fact energy supplements that contain caffeine, guarana extract, and B vitamins. They pack quite the energy boost into one bite-size piece.

Goli Energy Bites

Goli energy bites contain caffeine; guarana extract; and Vitamins B6, B9, & B12, providing an energy boost and helping you convert food into cellular energy.

According to Goli, they are designed to:

• support cellular energy production
• support a healthy nervous system
• support heart health
• support a healthy immune system
• provide essential nutrients
• support overall health & well-being

Most of those claims rely on the B vitamins, which are indeed very important to your health. But I think the real, immediate benefits from the caffeine and guarana extract are what you’re after! And that is the daily energy boost or afternoon pick-me-up!

I’ve written about Goli’s bites already (see: Goli Bites: Multivitamins or Bite-Size Candy Bars?), but the Energy bites are my favorite and this is my detailed review.

Health and Nutrition

These energy bites are made with guarana extract, caffeine, and B vitamins, as advertised. But they also look like candy bars! So let’s make sure we know what we’re getting into…

Ingredients

Center (Sugar, Glucose Syrup, Sustainable Palm Oil, Milk Solids, Egg Whites, Cocoa Processed with alkali, Natural Flavors, Salt, Vegetable Monoglycerides, Inositol, Baking Soda, Soy Lecithin, Stevia, Calcium D-Pantothenate), Chocolatey Coating (Sugar, Sustainable Palm Kernel and Palm Oil, Cocoa Processed with alkali, Milk, Soy Lecithin, Natural Vanilla Extract).

Perusing the ingredients list, it’s obvious this is a candy bar. Sugar is the first ingredient!

(Actually, sugar is in the ingredients list no less than three times!)

But there is also stevia, to boost the sweetness even more without adding additional calories.

Nutrition Facts

Each Bite contains:

Calories 25
Total Fat 1.5 g
Saturated Fat 1 g
Total Carbohydrates 4 g
Total Sugar 3 g
Sodium 15 mg
Vitamin B6 1.7 mg
Folate (Folic Acid) 200 mcg DFE
Vitamin B12 24 mcg
Guarana Extract (10:1) 56 mg
Caffeine 20 mg

There are a few things that stand out to me.

They are surprisingly low in calories.

With sugar being the first ingredient, followed by fats and oils, I’m actually surprised each bite contains just 25 calories.

There is more caffeine than you think!

While the direct amount of caffeine is 20 mg, that is separate from the 56 mg of concentrated guarana extract.

My back-of-the-envelope calculation is telling me that each bite effectively contains 75 mg caffeine!

The bites have a good calories:caffeine ratio.

Finding a potent energy boost in a low-calorie format (outside of the obvious black coffee) is challenging. The Goli Energy Bites are a pretty good option.

You only need one or two bites to get a good dose of caffeine. Even with a potent two-bite dosage, giving you about 150 mg caffeine, that’s just 50 calories.

Energy gels would not be suitable for this. To get the same amount of caffeine using caffeinated energy gels (which usually contain just 25-35 mg each) would require 4-6 energy gels. At 100 calories per gel, that would mean consuming 400-600 calories!

Taste Test

Goli Energy Bites come in one flavor option: “Salted Caramel Chocolate”

These bites look and taste just like a Milky Way candy bar.

They taste really good!

If you like candy bars like the Milky Way or 3 Musketeers, you’re in luck.

You’d have no idea it’s a supplement. Unless you are paying really close attention, it’s indistinguishable from a candy bar.

The sheer amount of sugar plus the extra sweetness from the stevia do wonders to cover up any bitterness from the caffeine content.

I’ve had other energy supplements that are basically chocolate candy with added caffeine, and there are definitely some where it’s obvious you have bitter caffeine among the ingredients. But Goli did a great job here, crafting a delicious flavor experience.

Results (Energy Boost?)

I tested these Goli Energy Bites for about 6 months. Each one provided a fantastic energy boost!

My go-to usage is to take one in the morning and then a second one shortly after lunchtime. This provides a potent energy boost for the day, wards off that mid-afternoon slump, and wears off in the evening so as not to interfere with my sleep.

Your results may vary.

Interested in more specifics? Continue reading below…

How I tested

I began testing the Goli Energy Bites by using them in place of my morning coffee (typically about 16 oz).

I tried four dosages:

• 1 bite in the morning
• 1 bite at lunchtime
• 1 bite in the morning, 1 bite at lunchtime
• 2 bites in the morning

I found that a single bite was sufficient to give me an energy boost right away. On some days, that single bite was enough.

But if I wanted all-day energy similar to what I got with my coffee, I needed two bites.

Two bites at once worked, but spacing out the two bites provided the most balanced energy boost.

About the “suggested use”

The label has a clear warning:

Suggested Use: 1 bite as needed. Do not exceed 5 bites per day.

Remember, each bite contains about 75 mg caffeine. So two bites would be equivalent to a 16 oz cup of coffee.

Consuming more than 5 bites in one day would put you over the suggested daily limit of 400 mg caffeine intake.

My test results

I was very pleased with the Goli Energy Bites. Here are my findings:

• They provided an energy boost every time. Some energy supplements work the first day and that’s it. But these kept working consistently.
• It’s easy to get the dosage you prefer. Each bite is roughly equivalent in caffeine-content to a small cup of coffee. Depending on your caffeine tolerance, you might want just one bite, or maybe 2-3.
• You can’t taste the caffeine. As I mentioned, the chocolate caramel flavor overpowers any bitterness from the caffeine.
• No need for bathroom breaks. Since it’s solid food, not some 24 oz can of energy drink, you don’t have to pee every five minutes. Excellent for road trips!
• No stale coffee breath. Normally I prefer to sip some coffee, but there’s no denying that it dries out my mouth and my breath is not pleasant for those I’m talking to. But that’s not a concern with these bites.

If you’re trying to avoid coffee and energy drinks, but still want caffeine, these Goli Energy Bites are great.

My final verdict is…

These quickly became one of my favorite energy supplements, and I highly recommend them. They provided me with long-lasting energy – without the jitters.

They’re especially great for times you don’t want to be drinking multiple cups of coffee (and have the multiple bathroom breaks that come with it) but still want the energy boost.

Unfortunately, it seems the Goli Energy Bites have been discontinued. If you happen to find them somewhere, stock up!

Official website: www.Goli.com

Buy online: www.Amazon.com

The post Goli Energy Bites Review (Yet another “energy” supplement) appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

Thinking about wearing a cycling jersey for running?

Yeah, you can wear a cycling jersey for running.

Is it ideal? No. But it works.

Here are some things to consider beforehand, and some tips to help you choose a cycling jersey that will also double as a running top.

What makes a good cycling jersey?

Cycling jerseys are made for cycling, an activity where you are usually seated, leaning forward, and your upper body is mostly stationary.

The better the jersey, the more specifically it is tailored to this position. The most noticeable aspect is how it’s going to be longer in the back and shorter up front.

Expect it to be tight and stretchy for the best aerodynamics.

Jerseys also have pockets along the low back, which are great for carrying a cell phone, energy bars, spare tools, or a myriad of other items. They are near your center of gravity so you hardly notice the contents.

Another handy feature is the front zipper. Some jerseys have a 1/4 zip and some have a full-length zipper. Full zips are great for heat regulation, and they’re really to put on and take off.

They are made from sweat-wicking materials (as any good athletic attire should be).

What about running in a cycling jersey?

Many aspects of the cycling jersey are also great for runners:

• Sweat-wicking material
• Tight fit for better aerodynamics
• Front zipper to increase wind flow and improve cooling

But there are also key differences:

The big problem is that cut that works so well when you’re sitting and hunched forward is rather weird if you’re standing upright. Instead of being form-fitting, it’s more like a mullet. It could hang low over your butt yet expose your stomach.

You also have to consider the movement of running. You are moving your body a lot more, swinging your arms. Your chest is pressed into the jersey. There is much more opportunity for chafing!

If you wear a cycling jersey for running, test it on a short run first! And have some Bodyglide on standby.

Then there are the pockets. The pockets are the same, but can you use them when running? That’s the difference.

If the jersey is made of a tight and stretchy material, the pockets may be usable when running. At least for smaller, lightweight items like gloves, a headband, or an energy gel. Anything heavier will likely bounce around and be very annoying when running. So don’t plan to put a big iPhone or water bottle in those pockets.

If you need to carry stuff, look at a belt, hip pack, or ultra-running vest.

(For tips on choosing a belt or vest to carry food, water, and accessories: How To Carry Food And Water With You On Your Runs: 6 Ways That Work)

Finally, the cycling jersey might look out of place. But that’s probably the least of your concerns.

Considering a triathlon?

If you’re wondering about wearing a cycling jersey for the bike and run legs of your first triathlon, go for it.

Pro tip: Wear a full-zip jersey. That will be easier to put on when your body is still wet from the swim.

If there’s paddling rather than swimming, you could do the whole race in a cycling jersey. That’s what I always did.

Just running casually?

If you’re just running casually, you could get by running in a cycling jersey. You could also do just fine wearing a T-shirt or tank top. Or no shirt at all!

Really, for casual running, you’re almost better off with a regular T-shirt than with a cycling jersey.

Rather than worrying about a cycling jersey or a running singlet, just find some workout shirts. A sweat-wicking shirt would be great. Doesn’t matter if it’s a short sleeve, long sleeve, sleeveless, or a tank top.

Better choices for running tops

Usually, the debate is the other way around: someone has a good running top and is wondering if they can keep wearing that for cycling, rather than spending the money on a cycling jersey.

But if you have a cycling jersey or two, and you need running tops instead, here are a few options to consider:

Russell Men’s Core Performance Short Sleeve T-Shirt

Built with Dri-Power 360 moisture-wicking technology, this active tee also features Fresh Force all-day odor protection to keep you cool, dry, and comfortable when running, working out, or just lounging at home. Find it for $13.99 or less at Walmart.com.

Next Level Apparel Men’s Tri-Blend Crew (6010)

Made from a “tri-blend” of 50% polyester, 25% cotton, and 25% rayon, this is the most comfortable, versatile t-shirt I’ve ever owned. It’s equally at home for casual wear as it is for gym workouts, runs, and hikes. You can usually find them for about $11 each on Amazon.

Decathlon Rockrider Men’s Short-Sleeved Mountain Bike Jersey

There is a newer style of cycling jersey out there called a “mountain bike jersey.” It’s somewhere in between a tight-fitting road cycling jersey with three back pockets and a loose-fitting downhill mountain biking jersey with no pockets. This one is made from high-performance material yet looks casual, and it has a single zippered back pocket for storage. It’s a great value for just $16.99 at Decathlon.com.

The post Yeah, You Can Run in a Cycling Jersey. (But…) appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

Not ready to spend money on cycling shoes? Here are the best regular shoes that are good for cycling.

Regular Shoes I Can Use as Bike Shoes?

This article was inspired by a reader’s question about picking out a good pair of shoes for bike riding, without plunking down the cash for a clipless pedal and shoe setup…

Coach,

I’ve been road biking for less than a year and love the fitness. But after spending a ton on accessories I don’t want to spring for bike shoes and pedals.

What should I look for in a shoe to use in the summer?

Thanks,
Shoeless Sam

Hi Sam,

Thanks for asking this question. I know what you mean! Between the shoes and pedals, you’re spending a lot of money no matter what. I do think it’s a good upgrade to keep in mind, and it doesn’t have to be super expensive, but for now, some ordinary shoes will do the trick.

I assume you have some sort of platform pedal that came on the bike originally. Perhaps with toe clips and straps, but not necessarily. You want to pick a shoe that matches well with this pedal. So, what will you look for in a shoe?

Finding “Regular” Shoes for Flat Pedals

You can find regular shoes that are similar to cycling shoes.

What to look for

Here are the most important characteristics to look for in non-cycling shoes that will be used as cycling shoes:

• Flat soles
• Stiff soles
• Grip
• Secure fit
• Protection
• Ventilation

The most basic requirement is to have a flat sole, at least at the ball of your foot, where you’ll be pedaling. The flatter, the better.

You also want the midsole to be stiff. The stiffer sole helps to transfer power to the pedals, giving you a performance benefit. It also prevents “hot spots” which you’d probably get from soft-soled shoes, so there’s a comfort benefit there, too.

The most important thing though is to have a grippy outsole. Grip is vital because you don’t want your feet slipping off the pedals. That’s a serious safety hazard. If your feet slip off the pedals, you’ll be in a world of hurt!

The shoe should provide a secure fit so your foot isn’t sliding around inside the shoe. That would be inefficient. This requires good laces, or even better, Velcro straps.

You also want an element of protection in case you crash. For casual riding or commuter cycling shoes, just having full-coverage shoes made from a durable material should be enough.

Finally, some ventilation is much appreciated! You’ll be much happier if your shoes are breathable and keep your feet cool when you’re pedaling hard on hot summer days.

Types of shoes

Types of regular shoes that can do double-duty as cycling shoes include:

• Skateboard shoes
• Mountain bike shoes
• Hiking boots
• Indoor soccer shoes
• Golf shoes

To no one’s surprise, skate shoes are ideal for biking. BMX bike riders started out wearing skate shoes until some companies made BMX-specific shoes.

Popular brands include Vans, Airwalk, DC, Etnies, and Osiris – they’d normally be around $60-90, but sometimes you can find them for $20 if you go to the right store. I’ve had good luck finding deals at Ross and sometimes Marshall’s.

You can also look into mountain biking shoes because many mountain bikers ride on flat pedals rather than clipless pedals. They can get really expensive, but keep an eye out and maybe you’ll find a good sale.

There’s a brand called Five Ten that makes some awesome shoes designed for riding on platform pedals, usually aimed at mountain bikers, but they’re going to be nearly as expensive as the shoes you’d get for a clipless pedal system. So watch for discounts and promo codes.

Moving toward the more common types of shoes, your best bet is hiking boots. Hiking boots and hiking shoes can be good, as they generally have a fairly stiff, sturdy sole. And at least some ventilation.

Good hiking boots are really expensive, but you might already have some at home.

Work boots are an option as well, but they tend to be heavy, and rather warm for summer cycling. But they’d do fine in the cold winter months.

If soccer is your sport, you’re in luck, because indoor soccer shoes are nearly perfect for biking. They tend to be tight-fitting, and they have stiffer soles than you might expect. They work well and look good!

Popular brands include Nike, Adidas, Puma, and Diadora.

Again, these are not necessarily cheap shoes, but maybe you already have some that you’re planning to retire from soccer duty.

Finally, most golf shoes work for cycling. As long as they are spikeless golf shoes, these are a decent option. The rubber sole is fairly flat and should have a pretty good grip on the pedal.

These are especially good if you’ll be doing equal parts riding and walking over the course of the day. They have the cushioning of a running or walking shoe, and the understated design of casual shoes, with the flat sole of a skate shoe.

And you might find them on sale at a major retailer like Dick’s Sporting Goods.

The Best Non-Cycling Shoes (For Cycling)

Ready to buy? Here are some normal shoes that I like quite a bit:

Vans Low-top Sneakers

Durable canvas upper with a flat sole made from grippy rubber. This good rubber pattern works well for skateboard decks and bike pedals.

These Vans have timeless style and are available in multiple colors, to match any bike. They typically sell for around $60 but even less when on sale.

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

DC Pure Low-top Shoes

Classic skate shoe styling but with more padding for added protection. This is the best value in modern skate shoes!

The list price on these shoes is $65, but as with the Vans, you can find them on sale.

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

Etnies Barge LS Skate Shoes

Possibly the best combination of comfort, style, and functionality for either biking or skating. Not to mention, a tremendous value.

You can get them in all black, or choose from a variety of color combinations. List price is $55, which is already worth it, but sometimes you can find them on sale.

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

Diadora Capitano ID

Some of the most popular yet affordable indoor soccer shoes. With impeccable Italian styling.

List price $55.

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

Adidas Samba

Well-known indoor soccer shoes with classic styling. Leather uppers, rubber outsole.

Retail for $100 but you might find them on sale.

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

Five Ten Sleuth

While these are cycling-specific shoes, they’re made for flat pedals and casual riding. The rigid sole will help you get up to speed quickly after stop signs, and the Stealth Marathon rubber sole makes it feel like you’re glued to the pedals.

This shoe retails for $90 but is often on sale. You probably won’t find them at discount stores, but check the Adidas website and you might find a good sale.

(Note that Adidas owns Five Ten now.)

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

Five Ten Freerider Pro

These are dedicated mountain bike shoes, designed for serious mountain biking. The stiff sole helps transfer your power to the pedals to climb hills and negotiate obstacles, while the Stealth Phantom rubber outsole guarantees excellent grip on the pedals. Synthetic leather uppers offer durability, and there’s extra protection in the toe box.

These are overkill for casual riding but can save you from broken toes if you crash your mountain bike!

This is a $150 shoe and well worth it. But that doesn’t mean you have to pay full price. You can find some great sales at REI and on the Adidas website around certain holidays.

Shopping online? Check the current price at Amazon.

Types of Shoes to Avoid

Some other shoes are downright bad choices.

Avoid:

• Running shoes
• Dress shoes
• Work boots
• Sandals

Most importantly, avoid flexible soles like you find on running and jogging shoes. Running and cycling footwear are completely different animals!

A common mistake is to wear running shoes for cycling since they’re athletic shoes. But running shoes – or “tennis shoes” as some call them – have soft soles. And modern sneakers tend to have tread patterns that don’t really work with pedals.

They’re about as far from a cycling shoe as you can get!

Sure, the abundance of breathable mesh is great on hot summer days. But otherwise, they make a poor choice for bike riding.

Dress shoes have soles that are flat but too slick.

Work boots are too thick and heavy. And definitely no sandals, which are the opposite, offering no protection whatsoever!

Also, keep an eye out for deals on road cycling shoes and clipless pedals! Sometimes you can find great deals, even at bike shops. I can almost guarantee you’ll want to make the jump, sooner or later!

Final tip: Whatever you do, keep your laces short or tucked in! You don’t want them getting tangled in the drivetrain!

This article was originally published on September 17, 2013. It was updated and republished on August 13, 2023.

The post What Are Good Shoes for Biking? (But Just Regular Shoes, Not Biking Shoes!) appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

Hybrid bikes aren’t quite as fast as road bikes on smooth pavement. They are usually set up for comfort rather than speed. But that doesn’t mean they have to be slow!

Here are some ways you can make your hybrid bike faster:

How to Make Your Hybrid Bike Faster

With a little bit of effort and some upgrades, you could get a boost of speed, or even transform your hybrid into a bike that’s downright fast.

Get new tires designed for speed

Most hybrids come with cheap, heavy tires. Top priorities for hybrid bike tires are usually durability, flat prevention, and low cost, with the ability to find traction on a variety of surfaces.

These tires are probably on the wider side, perhaps 35 or 37 mm, maybe even 40 mm wide. And they probably have some sort of knobs. (Knobby tires are great for mountain bikes, but on the road, they just slow you down.)

You can swap out these tires with something that is lighter and faster. A skinnier, smoother tread tire is going to have less rolling resistance. A more expensive tire will also be lighter, and those weight savings translate directly into increased speed.

Tires are by far the #1 way to go faster on your hybrid. Here are some good choices available in the 700c x 28mm size:

• Panaracer GravelKing Slick are lightweight, fast tires with good grip on various road surfaces. (Check price on Amazon.)
• Continental Gatorskin are tough, durable tires that resist punctures and roll fast. (Check price on Amazon.)
• Vittoria Rubino Pro are very fast tires that are great for high speeds on paved roads. (Check price on Amazon.)

These low rolling resistance tires are sure to make a huge difference compared to knobby, wider tires.

Remove your suspension

Most hybrid bikes come equipped with a front suspension fork, but this is mainly for looks. The idea is that the front suspension will create a smoother ride, but in reality, the cheap suspension forks are probably worse than if the bike had a rigid steel fork!

But they’re not just ineffective. They really weigh down the bike, too. If you’re willing to replace your fork (generally a job for a bike shop), a rigid steel fork will be lighter and faster.

A cheaper option is to adjust your fork to be as stiff as possible. If your fork offers a lockout functionality, use it!

Your bike may also have a suspension seatpost. Again, these are heavy and detract from your speed. Replace it with a carbon fiber seatpost.

Obviously, a lighter bike is going to be faster. But the bigger impact comes from eliminating the wasted energy from your suspension bobbing up and down.

Create a more aerodynamic position

Hybrids put you in a more upright riding position, which is more comfortable, but it is not even close to being aerodynamic. The wind resistance is going to make you very slow.

You may be able to achieve a more aerodynamic riding position with a longer stem and/or lower handlebar. Just be cognizant of your bike fit.

You may even be able to attach clip-on aero bars to your current handlebar. This lets you ride in a very aerodynamic position! But remember, this makes the bike harder to handle.

Get a bike computer

Adding a bike computer with a speedometer is very inexpensive. Now that GPS units are the norm, simple bike computers are cheap. You might even know a cyclist who has an extra and would give it to you for free.

A reputable brand CATEYE still makes these. (Here’s one on Amazon if you can’t find one locally.)

The computer itself won’t make you faster, but it will let you know if a certain change is making you faster or slower.

For instance, if you install aerobars, you can compare your average speed riding on the flat handlebar vs riding on the aerobars.

Clean and lube your chain

If your chain is dirty, it’s going to slow you down. You’ll be wasting effort on every single pedal stroke.

Clean your chain and put some fresh lube on there! (May I suggest Dumonde Tech Lite lube.)

Try clipless pedals

Your hybrid probably came with flat pedals made of slippery plastic. It’s hard to get a good grip on these, which means it’s harder to apply power to your pedal stroke.

If you’re up for it, try clipless pedals and shoes. The shoes lock into the pedals securely, allowing you to pedal powerfully.

(You could also try adding toe straps, which is cheaper, but not quite as effective.)

Change your gearing

If you find yourself regularly spinning out your high gears, it may be worth considering a new cassette and/or chainrings. Higher gears mean higher speeds and increased maximum speed.

These higher gears could help you keep pedaling on downhills and maintain speed as you go into the next uphill.

Changing your bike’s gearing is not super difficult, but it can be tricky. You need to be aware of the maximum capacities your derailleurs can handle. It’s probably not worth it on its own, but if your cassette is worn out and needs replaced, that could be an opportunity to make a change.

Remove accessories

Your bike might have quite a few accessories attached: racks, bags, fenders, etc. If you don’t use them, remove them!

Removing this dead weight is like getting free speed. It’s not going to make a huge difference, but it counts.

Lose weight

What might be even better than lowering your bike weight is lowering your own body weight. It’s easier said than done, but consider losing weight.

If you have to ride lots of hills, extra weight makes it much tougher, whether that weight is on your bike or on your body.

Changes That Are NOT Worth It

Hybrid bikes are popular because sometimes it’s hard to choose between a road or mountain bike. Hybrid bikes offer a compromise.

Unfortunately, they’re not great at either option. Which can lead you into so many upgrades that it would be more cost-effective to buy a new bike!

Here are some things you might be considering, but probably aren’t worth it:

• Buying lightweight parts. Lightweight parts are very, very expensive, and they won’t make a substantial improvement to your bike’s speed.
• Switching to drop bars. If your hybrid has a flat handlebar, changing to drop bars (typical road bike style handlebars) would allow you to get more aero, but it’s a major project.
• New trends like disc brakes and tubeless tires. While these technologies can help you be faster in mountain bike racing, their utility for road biking is questionable. They certainly won’t translate into any speed difference on your hybrid.

Can I Go Faster With Skinny Tires on My Hybrid?

This article was inspired by a reader’s question about putting skinnier road tires on a hybrid bicycle in order to go faster and keep up with the road bikers…

Hi Coach Levi, Not too long ago I wrote to you about whether I should trade in my bike (Scott Sportster P6) for a road bike. I was told by my brother to stick with this bike and he may upgrade in the future and he’ll give me the road bike he has now (Orbea.) let’s suffice it to say that convinced me to stay with it. I was told by some people on a forum to replace the 37c tires that it came with to something smaller like 28c/30c, will this make it faster in the long run?

I know mine is no match to his speedwise but just to add a little more speed what size do you think I should upgrade to?

Thanks,
Hybrid Henry

Hi Henry,

I bet you could feel a noticeable difference if you put some new rubber on there. I haven’t seen the bike’s tires in person, but I saw them labeled as “700x37c semi slick.” So not only are they wider than necessary, there is probably excess rubber to add weight, and an excessive tread pattern to add rolling resistance. That’s not necessary when road riding.

I would upgrade to a 700x28c tire that’s as slick as possible. Not many actual racing tires come in that size, but there should be a few decent options.

It might also be possible to go to a 700x25c tire. That reduces the tire width by about 12mm (half an inch), or 50%. And you get more options, as many racing tires come in 700×20-25c sizes.

The main question is, would it fit the rim? You would need to make sure the rim is narrow enough. I think the rim should be ~ 15mm wide (measurements are for inside rim width) to run the 700x25c tire. (You can do further reading here.)

Or you can measure the outside rim width with a caliper and make sure it’s narrower than the tire you want. If the rim is wider than the tire, that’s not good!

To be safe, though, it’s probably best to stick with a 700x28c tire or larger.

All that said, you might not notice much difference in speed. It’s still a hybrid, after all. Since I haven’t done this exact swap I can’t say for sure.

The situation is similar to another question I had about getting a cyclocross bike and putting skinny tires on it, rather than buying a true road bike. It’s just not the same, and after the time and money spent trying to make it into something it’s not, you’ll probably be left disappointed.

Worst case scenario, you put up with the slow hybrid, then you notice a gigantic speed increase when you switch to the road bike later!

This article was originally published on June 20, 2011. It was updated and re-published on August 9, 2023.

The post Yes, You Can Make Your Hybrid Bike Faster (with New Tires) appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

There are big differences – and subtle differences – between road bikes and hybrid bikes. But there are similarities as well, making for a tough task to choose between them.

Here’s how to figure out which one is best for you.

Understanding Road Bikes vs Hybrids

Let’s begin by learning some important background information.

The purpose of hybrid bikes

To understand hybrid bikes, you first need to know the difference between road bikes and mountain bikes.

In a nutshell, the bikes are designed for completely different terrain: road bikes are designed for riding on paved roads, while mountain bikes are designed for riding on off-road trails.

The purpose of a hybrid bike is to give you one bike that can go decently fast on smooth roads but also handle mild off-road terrain. Hence the “hybrid” name.

Sounds like a great idea, but is it the right bike for you? Or should you stick with a road bike?

Key differences between road and hybrid bikes

Here are some of the important differences between these two styles of bikes:

• Riding position. A hybrid bike’s geometry puts you in an upright riding position, more similar to sitting in a chair. This upright position is more comfortable for most people. A road bike usually stretches you out forward to create an aerodynamic riding position. Road bikes are about speed rather than comfort.
• Handlebar style. Most hybrids have flat handlebars which are easy to understand and always put the brake levers within reach. Road bikes use drop bars, which offer more hand positions, but may scare off some new riders with how the braking and shifting works.
• Tires. Hybrids come with multi-purpose tires that provide acceptable performance on paved roads, dirt roads, and gravel paths. Road bikes have thin tires with slick tread, suitable only for paved surfaces.
• Pricing. Hybrids are usually targeted at casual, recreational cyclists, so they are meant to be affordable. There’s a great selection of these bikes under $1000, with some under $500. Road bikes tend to be more expensive, usually starting closer to $1000 and going up from there. (A high-end carbon road bike with new technology like electronic shifting and hydraulic disc brakes could easily surpass $10,000.)

The Right Bike For You

Choosing between these two styles of bikes is mainly about what type of bike rider you are.

If you are riding for fun and you just want to get out and ride, a hybrid is a good choice. You can just hop on and go and it will likely handle whatever terrain you come across.

If your main goal is fitness, either bike would work. A mountain bike would work too, as would a stationary bike! Just depends on where you want to ride.

Some manufacturers have created lines of “fitness bikes” but this is really another name for hybrid bikes.

If you’re not sure about the terrain, a hybrid is a safe bet. It’ll work for road, off-road, dirt, and gravel riding.

If you will be commuting to work or running errands on your bike, a hybrid bike would be a good choice because they usually have proper mounts for racks, fenders, and other useful accessories.

If you crave speed and are considering racing, that’s a sign that you should get a road bike!

If you want to go mountain biking, riding over rocks or hitting dirt jumps – you’ll need a mountain bike instead!

Hybrids typically provide lots of fun and smiles unless you have a very specific need for a specific type of bike.

Should I Trade In My Hybrid for a Real Road Bike?

This article was inspired by a reader’s question about using a hybrid for road riding and if it will be sufficient…

Hi Coach Levi, I did a charity ride 3 months ago. I had a mountain bike that was over 20 years old, somewhat rusty and not in very good condition. I decided to buy a new bike to do the ride because I didn’t know if the old mountain bike was going to withstand it.

The area where I live is not a biking community so I went for a hybrid, Scott Sportster P6 to be exact. Two months after my dad told us we are going to move closer to my brother and he lives in a biking community. I am now going to do road rides with him; if I knew before hand that we were moving I would’ve gotten a road bike. My ? to you is, do u think I should sell/trade in this bike for a road bike since I’ll be doing road rides?

Thanks,
Hybrid Henry

Hi Henry,

What I would do is start out doing your road rides on the hybrid and see how it works out. The Scott Sportster P6 looks to have road wheels with fairly slick tires so you might be alright on it, at least to start out.

If your flexibility allows, you could lower the stem and handlebar to get a little more aero.

The downfalls I see are these:

1. If you’re a powerful rider and like to go fast, the 48×14 high gear is going to be too low for road use. And you’ll definitely spin out on downhills.

2. If you do long rides, the lack of available hand positions offered by a flat bar will have you wishing for the drop bar of a real road bike. Flat bars also make it tough to get into an aggressive riding position, which you may want to do if you have any sort of sibling rivalry that urges you to ride faster than your brother!

3. It’s heavy. 27 pounds is rather heavy for something being ridden on the road. How troublesome this is depends mostly on the number of hills you have to climb.

So if you know you are going to be doing a lot of road rides and get pretty serious about it, I’d get a road bike sooner rather than later. But if you’re not positive, I’d stick with what you have. At the very least, the hybrid is going to be much faster and more comfortable than a 20 year old mountain bike!!

Another thing to consider is money. If you sell or trade in a nearly new bike, you’ll probably still lose quite a bit of money on it. And then you need to buy the road bike, and they are typically more expensive than hybrids, even for the lower-end models. (While it’s easy to find a $400 hybrid, it’s hard to get a new road bike for under $800.)

It wouldn’t hurt to visit the local bike shop in your new town and ask their advice, too.

Whatever you do, just try to enjoy the ride!

This article was originally published on May 12, 2010. It was updated and re-published on August 7, 2023.

The post Hybrid Bikes vs Road Bikes – Finding The One That’s Best For You appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

It’s a dangerous world we live in. Among other things, road cycling is more dangerous than ever: road rage, distracted drivers, more drivers on the road, bigger cars, more blind spots, and people are always in a hurry.

Cell phones seemed like they would increase safety for cyclists thanks to the ability to call for help. But that was quickly offset by the number of drivers that are using the same devices behind the wheel. Fortunately, there are other devices that may increase your safety – or at least, help you get compensated for your injuries. I’m talking cameras and radar.

Here’s how to get set up.

Why Do You Need Cameras On Your Bike?

Now’s the time to invest in front and rear cameras for cycling. Here’s why:

1. To capture evidence that can be provided to the police and lawyers. Whether you are hit and injured, or just witnessed someone breaking the law (e.g. not allowing 4 feet passing a cyclist), you won’t get anywhere without irrefutable video evidence. Cameras on your bike are your best bet to capturing evidence that it happened (and hopefully a license plate, too).
2. To share recordings of dangerous areas with other local riders. You can upload this footage to the internet to bring attention to the dangers of certain roads, providing good info for fellow riders in your town. You’re helping others avoid the same dangers.
3. To prove that crazy story of yours is true. Get video to support crazy stories no one would believe otherwise, like a black bear crossing the road in front of you!

It can certainly be fun to capture those unbelievable moments on camera, but I think the most compelling reason for installing this type of camera is to capture evidence of a crime.

(Similarly, I highly recommend installing a Vantrue N4 or similar dash cam in your car if you haven’t already.)

I’ve been lucky to avoid being run over, but I’ve been run off the road more than once, and witnessed countless acts of negligence during my rides.

This sort of thing happens all the time – just look at this subReddit called r/CyclistsWithCameras.

Here’s an example of a close call video:

[US][Florida][Jupiter] [OC]
byu/Renbo2023 inCyclistsWithCameras

Cycling deaths keep increasing. We need to do something.

For me, that means focusing on the one change I have control over – my riding, my bike, and my accessories.

Choosing a Camera

There aren’t very many options for cyclists, so you don’t need to make this overly complicated. But you do want to make sure you’re putting your money to good use.

Should I get front and rear cameras?

Using both front and rear cameras is recommended. That will give you the best chance at capturing the “full picture.”

A rearview camera is the only feasible way to record someone hitting you from behind. In those worst-case scenarios where a driver runs right into you, it’s the rear camera that will record it. (Hopefully both you and the camera’s SD card survive.)

A front-facing camera will capture so much more. It may capture a motorist passing you too closely, pulling out in front of you, or cutting you off making a left- or right-turn directly in front of you. That type of dangerous – and illegal – driving behavior. It’s the front camera that will capture the incident and possibly a license plate.

If you have both, you can string footage together and make a better argument against reckless drivers.

The “must-have” features

When choosing front and rearview cameras for your bike, there are two features that are absolutely vital:

1. A wide-angle lens for a wider field of view. This is how you capture things happening up close.
2. A date and timestamp automatically encoded on the footage. This is proof of the time and place.

You also want the best quality sensors you can get, so that your recordings are high-resolution, regardless of lighting conditions. Audio recording is also helpful because you can essentially add voice notes over the recording to describe what’s happening and read license plate numbers aloud. A robust camera housing, continuous loop recording, and crash detection provide extra peace of mind that your footage is safe.

Not essential, but very convenient, is to have a headlight or taillight built in. Then you don’t have to worry so much about all the extra devices you need to attach to your bike.

Here’s a quick reference list of all important features:

• Wide-angle lens
• Date and timestamp encoding
• Audio recording
• Shock-proof camera housing
• Quality sensors that can handle bright light and low light conditions
• Loop recording
• Auto-save footage when a crash is detected
• Built-in lights

Don’t rely on a smartphone or GoPro

A GoPro is a great action camera. They’re great for recording your friend on some sick line, or capturing race footage you plan to upload to Youtube.

Smartphones are very handy because you can run Strava and take pictures of the great vistas you encounter on your rides. And with some of the mounts available today, you can capture video or even livestream while riding.

But neither of these devices are meant to be used as safety cameras.

For starters, you want to have a fixed mount on your bike. You don’t want to use a chest-mounted camera or a helmet camera.

And you don’t want to move the camera during your ride. If you’re using your smartphone, chances are you will use it periodically.

And neither offers an integrated headlight or taillight.

What will this cost?

It’s understandable if you have price concerns. High-tech devices aren’t cheap.

It will cost you at least a few hundred dollars to set up front and rearview cameras. You could get started for around $200, but a good setup will run you $500 or more.

But I don’t look at this like a bike technology purchase, like an upgrade to the latest Garmin Edge GPS computer. I consider it to be “bike insurance.” More of a required fee, like life insurance or car insurance.

I don’t have to maintain an insurance policy on my bikes like I do on my cars. But I imagine if I did, I might want to budget $500 for it. (I assume everyone is paying at least $500 per year on car insurance for state minimum requirements.)

So for my “bike insurance budget” I can put that toward these cameras because these cameras are the best insurance policy there is if a driver hits you when you’re cycling.

Is there any reason not to set up cameras?

I can’t think of any reason not to set up cameras on your bike. The only real reason is if you can’t afford it. Otherwise, it seems like a very smart choice.

The cameras are fairly easy to install. It’s a negligible weight penalty. And it doesn’t inconvenience you any more than setting up and recharging your existing bike technology (e.g. GPS computer, front and rear lights).

Best Rearview Cameras for Your Bike

There are only a few viable options. But these aren’t cheap, so it’s smart to research and compare!

Best Front + Rear System: Cycliq

Cycliq is the only company to offer both front and rear cameras: the Fly6 and Fly12. They’ve been making cameras since 2012 (more than ten years!), and the latest models are quite nice.

The Fly6 ($239) is a rear camera and taillight combo, and the Fly12 ($319) is a front camera and headlight combo. Each one includes a compatible bike mount (seatpost mount for the Fly6 and handlebar mount for the Fly12), safety tether, USB cable, and 64 GB microSD card. Everything you need to get started!

Control the cameras and sync and share videos using the CycliqPlus smartphone app. There’s also a desktop version for further viewing and editing.

The Cycliq cameras include all important features listed above, and you can buy the set for $558.

Learn more and order online at Cycliq.com.

Budget Pick: TOOO Cycling DVR80

The DVR80 rear camera from TOOO Cycling launched on Kickstarter in 2021, and despite that funding project being canceled, the product came to life and is currently available.

While the DVR80 is the lowest-priced safety camera on the market at $195, the tech specs show this to be a quality offering. In fact, it’s probably the highest-quality rearview bike camera available! It uses a Sony IMX 307 CMOS camera sensor inside, and coupled with impressive image stabilization technology, the HD video footage is remarkable!

My only question is, when are they going to make a front camera?!

Learn more and order online at www.tooocycling.store.

Best Camera + Radar: Garmin Varia

Garmin Varia began as a radar system to detect cars behind you and alert you with visual and audio cues. It’s one of those things you don’t think you need, but once you try it, you wonder how you ever lived without it!

Imagine you’re riding a rough road, or going really fast downhill with lots of wind noise – sometimes you don’t even hear the loud cars approaching. Never mind the electric cars that are super quiet to where you might not hear them approaching even in a calm setting! The Varia has your back. This radar system will detect the cars even if you can’t hear them, or if you’re spacing out and not paying attention at all.

Also, if a car is passing you, you might not be able to tell if it’s one car or if there’s a lineup. But the radar knows. And it shows you. So the Varia radar is more helpful than you might have realized!

But what does this have to do with rearview cameras?

Good question. The Varia radar is super cool, but it doesn’t record anything.

Well, that all changed with their new RCT715.

The new Garmin Varia RCT715 is a radar taillight with an integrated camera.

Previously, you’d have to choose between the Garmin Varia radar (proactive monitoring) and the Cycliq Fly6 rearview camera (recordings to prove what happened). Now you can get both in one unit for $400.

And you can pair it with your smartphone or existing head unit (Garmin Edge, Wahoo Element, etc.) Quite convenient if you are part of the Garmin ecosystem and already rocking a new Garmin Edge on your handlebar.

Of course, you would still need to buy a Cycliq front camera or similar to have full video recording coverage.

(But Garmin makes dash cams for cars, so perhaps they’ll have a front-facing camera for your bike someday.)

Learn more and order online at Garmin.com.

The Garmin Varia RCT715 is also available on Amazon.com.

Most Versatile Combo: Garmin Varia Rear Radar + Cycliq Front Camera

When I consider all the available products, plus the ultimate goal of riding unharmed, I think the most practical solution is to get a Garmin Varia for your rearview and a Cycliq camera for up front.

Personally, I’d get the Garmin Varia RTL515 (the radar + taillight) and the Cycliq Fly12 front camera + headlight.

The Varia radar helps you be more aware of your surroundings so you can take evasive action as necessary. It won’t capture anything on camera, but it may keep you safe.

The front camera will catch many of the traffic violations mentioned earlier, e.g. an oncoming car makes a left in front of you rather than yielding, the “right hook” where a passing car turns right in front of you (or into you), as well as the close call of not giving you the required 3′ or 4′ berth when passing.

What you’re most likely to miss without a rear camera is when a motorist bumps into you at a stop sign or red light. But with the Varia radar, plus a side mirror, and your reflexes, you can take evasive action as necessary to prevent that from happening.

What about just using the Garmin Varia?

If you do lots of city riding in lots of traffic, I’d suggest having the camera. Generally speaking, more cars means more opportunity for disaster. (And if you know there is a steady stream of cars, the Varia won’t tell you anything you don’t already know.) But if you do lots of riding on rural roads with only occasional traffic, the Garmin Varia is fantastic. It’s super useful on its own, and may help to prevent accidents in the first place!

I’d still recommend you have a mirror as well. It comes in handy for seeing exactly what’s there. But if you’re zoned out and don’t know there’s a car in the first place, you wouldn’t be looking in your mirror. The Varia helps avoid those surprises!

And don’t sleep on the taillight! The Varia actually changes the rhythm of the taillight, changing to a faster tempo as a car approaches from behind. A driver may notice that and assume they are being recorded and decide against making any aggressive maneuvers, even if your particular Varia only has the radar and not the camera.

Other Options

How to Set Up Your Cameras

Let’s say you purchase the Cycliq cameras or a Garmin Varia. How do you get them on your bike?

Fortunately, all these cameras come with mounts and instructions. Sometimes even an SD card. So you’re off to a good start.

But… you probably have other devices already mounted on your bike. And you might have other bags or accessories that interfere with the default mounting locations for these new cameras.

Here’s how to set up these cameras in real-life situations.

Where to mount?

The first question is, where to mount the cameras…

Generally, you should mount the cameras on your handlebar and seatpost. Or at least, very close to those areas. You may have to use a stem mount instead, or move the mount to your rear rack, or buy a seat rail mount.

Regardless, you want to have a fixed mount. Something that’s convenient. You want this recording to be second nature. It should be no more difficult than mounting your GPS device and/or lights each ride and remembering to charge them between rides.

All the recommended cameras here include universal mounts for either a handlebar or a seatpost. These use rubber bungees to secure them in place.

Those mounts are fine to get started. Eventually, you may want to upgrade to a more securely mounted adapter made of metal.

You can buy these accessories in various forms – or if you’re handy, make one at your local DIY/makery space.

Mounting to your seat rails rather than seatpost is quite helpful for a few reasons. One, it’s more out of the way. You might be able to still run a seatbag. And it won’t interfere with clamping the seatpost in a repair stand. Two, more long-term durability. Those rubber bungees are great for quick, temporary applications, but this should be more permanent to the bike.

Consider the K-Edge Go Big Pro Saddle Rail Mount, a svelte metal attachment that goes on your seatpost rails. Or the PRO Saddle Camera Mount. There’s also one from Corki that’s pretty cheap (pictured above; available on Amazon).

What if I have a seat bag?

You might not be able to fit both. Consider an alternative bag or alternative mounting system.

Or you can get the KOM seat bag which has a built-in Garmin Varia mount on the back. It’s slick!

The DIY solution here would be to poke holes in your saddle bag and run some cable ties through, securing a standard Garmin mount onto the material. But your Garmin Varia deserves better!

There are also some nice mounts made by bup labs.

What if I have a rack and panniers?

If you plan to utilize the storage space on top of your rack, that would block your seat and seatpost area, so you’ll need to fashion a mount on the back of the rack. Don’t worry – you’re not the only one looking to do this.

The short answer is that yes, you can probably find a mount that matches your rack. Garmin and Cycliq make them, as do some third parties. But there is no one size fits all solution. You may need some bolts, nuts, and washers, and a drill or a Dremel, to rig up a custom mount.

Some people take seat rail mounts or stem cap mounts and customize them.

There is a lot of discussion within the Garmin product forums. Here’s a popular rack mount for the Varia. This Amazon customer review shows how simple it is to take a Garmin stem cap mount and attach it to a rear rack.

Mounting a camera on your handlebar is relatively easy by comparison.

If you have plenty of space, the included handlebar mount is fine for the Cycliq Fly12.

If you want to clean things up, the optional Duo Mount bolts onto your handlebar and holds both the Cycliq Fly12 camera and headlight, plus a Garmin or Wahoo head unit.

But for a similar price, you could get a really classy combo mount from K-Edge. Highly recommended!

Sharing Your Recordings

At some point, you’ll want to share your recordings. Hopefully it’s to share good things!

But you may also share recordings as warnings to fellow cyclists.

Social media can be helpful. As mentioned, the r/CyclistsWithCameras subreddit. That’s this one where I first saw the example from above. That clip got reposted on r/Bicycling and got more attention. But also, local groups. Your local cycling club probably has a Facebook group.

Perhaps even more important is to catalog incidents and keep a record of dangerous, negligent driving. Benefit the greater cycling community by uploading a video clip to Upride.cc. The purpose is to:

1. Raise AWARENESS of cycling safety and support education for road users.
2. Provide the only detailed source of INFORMATION to help planners design safer roads.
3. Give authorities the evidence they need to PROSECUTE dangerous drivers.

They’re looking for crashes, close calls, or even just bad roads.

I am not a lawyer!

Show References

The post How to Set Up Front & Rearview Cameras on Your Bike appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

The Chirp Wheel is one of the hottest items in self-massage and recovery tools. They call it the “World’s Simplest Back Pain Relief.”

If so, I need it! I began dealing with back pain relatively early in life, and I’ll do just about anything to keep it at bay.

I first thought this wheel was all hype (which is the case with many fitness gadgets), then I realized it uses an intelligent design and it’s actually an FDA-registered medical device. So I bought it and tested it.

Let’s find out if it works and if it makes sense for you!

What Is a Chirp Wheel?

The Chirp Wheel is a massage device and stretching aid built specifically for back pain. It’s also FDA-registered as a medical device, so you know that a lot of planning and research went into this product.

It looks like a wheel and tire, which is fitting, given that you roll on top of it. At first, I was pretty sure it was the exact same thing as a yoga wheel. But it’s not. (Well, they are similar, but not quite the same thing.)

It began on Kickstarter

In the early days, it was known as the “Plexus Pain Relief Wheel.” Descriptive, yet boring.

It launched on Kickstarter in 2018 as the “Plexus Wheel+” with the “World’s Simplest Back Pain Relief” slogan.

After the successful Kickstarter campaign, they moved on to Shark Tank.

Chirp Wheel on Shark Tank

In 2020, the Chirp Wheel team went on the TV show Shark Tank to pitch their company.

They landed a deal with Lori Greiner, who got them on QVC.

I imagine lots of people watching QVC suffer from back pain, so it made a lot of sense!

Now the Chrip Wheel is everywhere, even on Amazon.

But how does it work? And what does it do?

How to Use the Chirp Wheel

Using the Chrip Wheel is simple.

It’s one simple motion

To begin, place the Chirp Wheel on the ground (in the upright position so that it can roll freely).

Next, sit down on the floor with your back to the wheel. Your back should be up against the rubber, with the wheel between your shoulder blades and your spine lined up with the central groove. Your feet should be flat on the floor.

Then simply use your feet and legs to press yourself backward, elevating your body on top of the wheel. From here all you do is roll forward and backward over the wheel.

Start slowly, and focus on keeping your balance.

But that’s it. It’s as simple as stretching over a stability ball or foam rolling your back.

It’s simple, but not necessarily easy. This depends on your physical condition. It’s important to note that you do need some strength and flexibility to get into the position to use the wheel properly. It will take some balance, too!

Does the Chirp Wheel Really Work?

It’s almost too simple to use. So I was skeptical and wondered if the Chirp Wheel even worked. I thought it looked silly and figured it was just an overpriced yoga wheel.

Once I investigated, I quickly changed my mind and ordered a 3-pack to test out.

Though simple, it’s legit.

It is myofascial release. This is a proven technique, a common manual therapy people do. A lot of chiropractors with a sports medicine focus offer myofasical release as a service. Foam rollers and other massage tools provide a means of self myofascial release, but they don’t offer the back stretch that the Chirp does.

Going to see a qualified professional is smart. They know exactly how to stretch/manipulate the soft tissue to get the desired outcome, releasing the tension in your back muscles. But that can get expensive.

With the Chirp wheel, it has to compensate for the fact that the user is not a trained professional.

What does it do?

As you roll over the wheel, it targets the muscles along the spine. It stretches these muscles, allowing them to release tension.

(It’s likely that tight back muscles are causing your back pain.)

Only the Chirp is purpose-built to offer a back massage and myofascial release.

The entire width fits between your shoulder blades, but also, it has the patented “spinal canal” in the center, so it doesn’t press on your spine. It only presses into the muscles next to the spine.

What does it not do?

The Chirp does not put pressure directly on the spine. That’s a good thing. (Normal yoga wheels might, which makes them a bad choice if you’re suffering from back pain.)

Does the Chirp Wheel crack your back?

The Chirp Wheel is not designed to crack your back, but it’s certainly possible that will happen. Rolling back on the Chirp is similar to arching your back, a common back stretch that people use to crack their own backs.

Do chiropractors recommend the Chirp Wheel?

Chiropractors are experts on back pain relief and how to keep your back healthy, so that’s who I would want to talk to about this!

Here’s a review by Dr. Jeff Brown from Foundation Chiropractic:

You can find more Chirp wheel reviews by chiropractors on Youtube and Reddit.

Cutting through the hype

They make a big deal about how awesome the product is and why the spinal canal design sets it apart. There’s a lot of hype. (Understandably so – you won’t get on Shark Tank without it.)

And while I do appreciate the idea behind this product, I’m not going to hype it up.

In reality, I was a little disappointed when I received it. It’s built well, but the inner plastic piece is the same as in any yoga wheel. It’s only the foam padding around the perimeter that is contoured to create the spinal canal.

I think it’s fair to call it “a yoga wheel with shaped, contoured foam” or “a foam roller in a new shape.”

That said, what really matters is the result. This purpose-built product will likely help your back pain.

Chirp Wheel Alternatives

The Chirp Wheel is one of a kind. There are many similar products – foam rollers, yoga wheels, massage balls, etc. – but nothing quite like this.

Let’s compare the Chrip to these other options and see which choice might be best for your individual needs.

Chirp Wheel vs Yoga Wheel

The Chirp looks a lot like a yoga wheel. Here’s a Chirp Wheel pictured next to a Dharma Yoga Wheel:

They look very similar, but there is one key difference. And that is the custom-shaped foam used on the Chirp Wheel to avoid putting pressure on your spine. The Chirp is basically a yoga wheel, but with a center channel cut out for your spine.

A yoga wheel rolls right on your spine. The Chirp focuses just on the muscles along your spine, without touching the spine itself.

Both products would allow for stretching your back, from a skeletal perspective. But the Chirp wheel also stretches and massages your muscles.

(If you’re interested in this comparison, you’ll enjoy this detailed comparison of the Chirp Wheel vs the Dharma Yoga Wheel.)

The Chirp is also a bit wider, which gives you a more stable platform for your stretches.

Did I mention, the Chirp Wheel is the only wheel on the market that is FDA-registered as a Class 1 Medical Device?

Chirp Wheel vs Foam Roller

There are a couple big differences here. First, the Chirp is narrower. It’s 5″ wide. A foam roller is going to be at least 13″ wide.

That’s because the Chirp is purpose-built for your back. The narrower width allows the Chirp to focus pressure on your back muscles. It fits right between your shoulder blades.

Wider foam rollers are great. They are versatile – you can use them with pretty good success on most of your body. But there are specific situations where you need a more targeted tool. And one of those situations is, right along your spine. While a foam roller is good for your lats, it’s not the best bet for directly working your paraspinal muscles.

The second big difference is that there is an indented channel in the center of the Chirp, so that it doesn’t push directly on your spine. A foam roller – especially a dense one like the Rumble Roller – might poke right into your vertebrae.

Chirp Wheel vs Massage Track

The Massage Track doesn’t look much like the Chirp Wheel, but I’d argue it’s the best alternative. It can provide targeted pressure on your back muscles, and the balls naturally create a void that lines up with your spine.

But, the Massage Track doesn’t offer the stretching aspect that a wheel does.

I have reviewed the Massage Track and I like it, but it’s about the same price as the Chirp Wheel.

You’re probably only looking at a Chirp Wheel alternative in order to save money. Well, there is no generic version.

You could build your own DIY version based on a yoga wheel with some extra rubber strips, but that’s a hassle and probably won’t save you much money.

Maybe someday you’ll find a $3 version on AliBaba or AliExpress, but I prefer to reward the company that created this device. So I would buy a real Chirp Wheel.

If I was in my 20’s still, I wouldn’t care about the Chirp Wheel. I’d be fine with my foam rollers for warm ups and stretching. But I’m older now, and back pain is real!

Where to Buy the Chrip Wheel

You can buy direct from the GoChirp.com website.

They also sell on Amazon.

I have not seen any local stores carrying the Chirp Wheel, but I’ve heard that some Target stores and Dick’s Sporting Goods store have it in stock.

There are three different sizes, for varying levels of intensity. You can purchase individually or buy a 3-pack.

About the three sizes

Each size serves a different purpose.

The 12″ Chirp wheel is more gentle. It gives the best overall stretch.

The 10″ wheel provides more pressure while still offering a good stretch. The idea is to provide a middle ground, helping to ease the transition between the 12″ and 6″ wheels.

The 6″ wheel is meant for deep tissue work. It provides very targeted pressure for working specific muscles.

Price

The individual wheels are priced as follows:

12″ is $59.99
10″ is 49.99
6″ is 44.99

Or you can purchase all three together for $109.99.

You also get free shipping on orders over $99.

I consider the price to be reasonable, whether you look at this as a medical device or a self-massage/recovery tool.

Plus, I know that if you’ve had back pain, you’re probably willing to spend any amount of money on something that will help!

Realistically, $110 gets me one or two chiropractor appointments. So a 3-pack of these wheels for $109.99 is a no-brainer.

(I really only need the 12″ and 6″ sizes, but buying those ones individually would cost me $105. So getting the three-pack bundle is like getting the 10″ wheel for $5. So why not?)

Guarantee

They offer a 60-day satisfaction guarantee so you can return it if it doesn’t relieve your back pain. It’s a 100% Happy Body Guarantee.

“If your body isn’t 100% satisfied with the product within 60 days, send it back. No questions asked.”

They’ll give you a full refund and send you a prepaid return shipping label.

There is also a 10-year warranty on the product itself.

My final verdict is…

If you’re not dealing with back pain and stiffness, then some foam rollers and massage balls are more versatile tools to have at home. You don’t need to add a Chirp Wheel just because it’s a hot item.

But if you are dealing with back pain, it’s a great tool – totally worth the price.

Official website: www.GoChirp.com

Buy online: www.Amazon.com

The post Chirp Wheel Review: Shark Tank Fad or The Real Deal for Back Pain Relief? appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

Struggling to stay cool and comfortable on hot summer days outside?

Consider a camping fan. These are battery-powered fans for the outdoors. They’re great in tents, baseball dugouts, and bike race parking lots.

These are the best camping fans.

Why a Camping Fan?

So many camping supplies are also great for bike racing. Camping fans are a perfect example.

These are battery-powered so no electricity is required. Doesn’t matter what the race venue is, one of these fans will create a cooling breeze!

Think about the hot summer days when you’d kill for a nice breeze. Especially if you’re sitting in a parking lot. Even if you’re in the shade under an E-Z UP tent, it’s warm, especially with heat radiating up off the asphalt.

If you’re warming up on your stationary trainer or rollers, a camp fan is super important to keep you cool. I’m sure you use a fan when you’re riding your trainer at home, so why wouldn’t you do the same in the race parking lot?

Best Camping Fans

If seeking a fan for in your tent, obviously you’re looking for something battery-powered. But it’s also nice if it can plug into AC power when available, to save the battery for when it’s truly necessary.

Speaking of which, long battery life is a must!

The fan should be big enough to be powerful, but still lightweight and easy to carry around.

There are very few that are worth the money. Here are the best picks:

Best Overall: Geek Aire Rechargeable Outdoor Fan

The Geek Aire Rechargeable Outdoor Floor Fan is a lightweight, battery-powered fan built for the outdoors. It’s the perfect accessory to keep a cool breeze flowing whether you’re car camping or hanging out in under a tent in a bike race parking lot.

This fan can be operated on either A/C power or via the rechargeable battery. So it can be run on A/C power when available, but otherwise, you can run off the built-in rechargeable battery.

This 10″ model can run up to 24 hours on a single charge! (That’s 24 hours on low and about 4 hours on high.) You can recharge in 2-3 hours.

Designed to be used outdoors, this fan holds an IPX4 rating for water resistance, and it will sit upright on uneven terrain.

The brushless DC motor is very quiet and efficient, so it’s pleasant even when used within a tent. (The best products today – whether power tools or fans – are using these fancy DC motors that are incredibly quiet!)

It sports a list price of $119.99, but you might find it on sale for under $100.

Ready to buy? Check current price on Amazon.com.

You could also upgrade to the 12″ model for more power. It’s more expensive, a bit heavier, and has less battery life, but may be worth it depending on how big your tent is.

(The 10″ is better in a camping tent; the 12″ is better under a big canopy tent.)

The list price for this one is $139.99, but again, it might be on sale for less.

Check current price for the 12″ fan on Amazon.com.

Also Great: Ryobi Hybrid Jobsite Fan

If you’re a handyman and already have Ryobi power tools (and batteries) at home, you’re in luck! The Ryobi 18V ONE+ Hybrid WHISPER SERIES 7.5″ Fan doubles as a nice camping fan.

Equally at home indoors or outdoors, this fan can run on A/C power or battery power. Just pop in a rechargeable Ryobi battery pack and you’re set for 21 hours of cooling.

(Plan for around 20 hours of cooling on low or 4-5 hours of cooling on high.)

And it’s “whisper” quiet! You can enjoy the sounds of the great outdoors.

The beauty of this design is that you can carry extra battery packs with you. You can’t do that with the Geek Aire fan. (With the Geek Aire, you’d need a portable power pack to recharge the built-in battery.)

At just $59 for the fan, it’s a great deal.

Like I said, it’s perfect if you already have Ryobi power tools and batteries.

If you were to purchase the fan with a battery and charger, that’s going to cost you $129.

If you don’t have cordless power tools and don’t need any, or you already have Dewalt or Milwaukee power tools and those batteries, it’s not cost-effective to buy this Ryobi fan over the Geek Aire.

For more information on the 18V ONE+ Hybrid WHISPER SERIES 7.5″ Fan, see product details at www.ryobitools.com.

To check out the 18V ONE+ Hybrid WHISPER SERIES 7.5″ Fan Kit, see product details at www.ryobitools.com.

Also, find it at Home Depot:

Purchase the fan at www.homedepot.com.

Purchase the fan kit at www.homedepot.com.

They sell for the suggested retail prices, but PRO TIP, watch for a holiday sale like “Ryobi Days” where you might be able to get the fan, charger, and two batteries for $99!

Other Jobsite Fans

Best Value: O2COOL Treva 10-Inch Portable Fan*

For less than half the price of the top picks, consider the Treva 10-Inch Portable Fan from O2 COOL.

This fan can run on batteries or AC power, just like the top picks. And it’s only $34.99. But there’s a catch…

Rather than having a built-in rechargeable battery, it runs on D batteries. And it requires six of them!

Not only will the D batteries be heavy, but they are also rather expensive. It will cost you $15-20 for some Duracell batteries (check price on Amazon).

What about rechargeable D batteries? Good idea, but even more expensive. Assume at least $5 per battery, so, $30 in batteries for this at a minimum. Depending on the length of your camping trip, you might want to have a spare set of batteries ready to go.

Oh and don’t forget the charger. That’s about $20 itself. (Check out the Powerowl charger with 4 D batteries. Except you still need to buy more D batteries to get six! Ugh.)

Your cheap fan is now costing you $75+ and you wish you had just purchased the Geek Aire in the first place.

Really, this is more of a typical desk fan with the added feature that you can unplug it and put it anywhere around the house or out on the deck. It’s not designed for camping, but it works alright if you only need it once in a blue moon.

(The flat base will be less stable if you have uneven ground, but it should be fine for most parking lots.)

*That’s where the value comes in. You buy this fan for your house, then only the D batteries are considered a camping expense.

Ready to buy? Check current price on Amazon.

Budget Pick: Odoland Portable Camping Fan with Lantern

The Odoland Portable LED Camping Lantern with Ceiling Fan is small, lightweight, cheap, and convenient.

But, low on power!

It would be best used in a small tent or when camping inside your car.

If sitting in a parking lot, I’d suggest spending more for a bigger fan.

This fan runs on two D batteries, which keeps it small and lightweight. And since you have to purchase the batteries separately, the price tag is a low $24.99.

(A low $24.99 before you factor in the cost of batteries!)

Ready to buy? Check current price on Amazon.

In the end, the Geek Aire is the best fan overall. And realistically, it’s the best value, too.

I highly suggest you get that one!

(Here’s the link to buy again.)

It could be the best $100 you spend if you’re an avid racer, often hanging out under a tent in a race parking lot. A cool breeze on a hot day is essentially priceless!

If you happen to be a vendor, or a sponsored racer helping out by running a promo tent, for instance, this is a vital purchase.

But it’s important to note that a camping fan is about comfort. To cool down your body’s core temp before or after racing, consider a cooling vest. Here is my ranking of the best ones.

The post The Best Battery-Powered Camping Fans To Keep You Cool in The Race Parking Lot appeared first on CoachLevi.com.

Summers are getting hotter, so there’s a good chance you’ll be training and racing in very hot weather. Don’t let intense heat prevent you from getting a ride or workout in – stay cool in the summer heat with a cooling vest.

You may see pro cyclists wearing cooling vests before – or even during – certain races. Pay close attention to riders warming up for the TT stages of the Tour de France. It’s hot in July and these vests help racers keep their core temps low until it’s race time.

You can buy the same thing the pros are using. To choose the best cooling vest for your needs, I have compiled this helpful list.

The Best Cooling Vests

These are the best cooling vests for endurance athletes. Check out our top pick if you need the best, most versatile option ($200), or check out our budget pick for a quality vest at a low price ($50).

Best Overall: TechNiche Hybrid Sport Cooling Vest (HyperKewl + Cool Pax)

For most cyclists who want one do-it-all cooling vest, I’ve found the TechNiche Hybrid Sport Cooling Vest to be the best choice. This vest uses a hybrid cooling system utilizing both TechKewl (Cool Pax phase change inserts) and HyperKewl (evaporative material) technologies.

The hybrid approach keeps this vest relatively lightweight, but much more effective and versatile than a simple evaporative cooling vest. It will provide cooling relief regardless of your activity. It’s effective on bike rides and runs, stationary trainer warmups, indoor workouts, and more.

And you can tell just by looking at it that it is designed for athletes! It looks similar to a sleeveless cycling jersey.

The price tends to range from $180-220 depending on where you shop. It’s worth it.

Buy online: Compare prices at Amazon.com and Walmart.com

Expand for more details

Budget Pick: HyperKewl Cooling Sport Vest

The HyperKewl Cooling Sport Vest from TechNiche International is the cheaper version of our top pick. This is a lightweight vest with a simple design, and the simplicity means it’s rather comfortable, too.

The big difference is that this vest only uses HyperKewl technology, which is the basic evaporative cooling method. It does NOT use phase-change packs.

As such, this vest works best when you are moving. So it works well for riding and running outdoors. If that is what you plan to do, this is a great investment!

(If you’re on a stationary trainer, you might not generate enough airflow to get much cooling effect.)

Best of all, the vest sells for under $50, so it’s great if you’re on a limited budget!

Buy online: Compare prices at Amazon.com and Walmart.com

Expand for more details

Best Value: Polar Products Adjustable Cooling Pack Vest

While most phase change vests are priced around $200 or more, this cooling pack vest from Polar Products starts at $136. It’s not advanced like our top pick, but it works.

It’s a basic nylon vest with lots of Velcro adjustments, so you can get a proper fit, and it comes with Kool Max frozen water-based packs. So you freeze the packs in advance, then put them in the vest, and then put the vest on; as the packs melt, you get cooling relief.

Personally, I’d still pay a little more for the top pick that’s a sportier design, but this one works.

Buy online: Check price at PolarProducts.com

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Best Color Selection: GlacierTek Sports Vest

The GlacierTek Sports Vest is a phase change vest utilizing special PureTemp gel packs for cooling (rather than simple water-based packs). It’s made in the USA and features high-quality construction – you can just tell it looks durable. All that for $199.

But what really sets this one apart is the color selection!

Our top picks for cooling vests usually come in black or silver, maybe blue if you’re lucky. This one comes in gray, tan, red, blue, or olive green.

It has a tactical look to it as well, so bystanders will recognize that you aren’t messing around!

Buy online: Compare prices at Amazon.com and MyCoolingStore.com

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Best For Pre-Race Warm-ups: COMPCOOLER UniVest ICE Water Cooling System

The COMPCOOLER is a water circulation vest. It literally circulates cool water in tubing around your body to keep you cool.

It’s high-tech, but it’s also a bit heavy, with the water reservoir and battery pack!

As such, it’s best for pre-race warm-ups and post-ride recovery. I wouldn’t want to use it while riding or running. But it’s a great choice if you need it before and after your workouts. This is the sort of thing you see Tour de France riders wearing on the stationary trainer when they’re warming up before a time trial stage!

Their most popular model is priced at $229.

Buy online: Compare prices at Amazon.com and MyCoolingStore.com

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There is no shortage of cooling vests on the market. But there aren’t that many that are well-made, worth the money, and sensible for endurance athletes.

In case you’re curious, here’s a list of other vests I’ve had to sort through that I would not recommend:

NOT recommended for endurance athletes

How to Choose a Cooling Vest

Choosing the right cooling vest can be quite a challenge. Endurance athletes have different needs compared to golfers and race car drivers, so just because a particular vest is highly-rated and very popular does not mean it will meet your needs.

Here are my criteria for ranking the best cooling vests for endurance athletes like runners and cyclists, which you can also use when choosing the best cooling vest for yourself.

Cooling effectiveness

“Will this vest keep me cool enough, for long enough?”

The entire point of the vest is to keep you cool. So at a minimum, it needs to keep you cool!

Not all vests will keep you cool in all situations. Some vests require airflow to work, which means they would not work if you’re on a stationary trainer or treadmill, or if you’re wearing it beneath an outer layer.

The other aspect is how long the cooling effect lasts. If you need cooling for 2+ hours at a time, you’ll need a more expensive vest.

If a vest will not keep you cool enough, for long enough, then nothing else matters.

Ease of use

“Is this practical for my situation?”

A cooling vest needs to be easy enough to use that you’re actually willing to use it.

All these vests require some effort, but it varies considerably.

For instance, some vests need to be soaked in water, and some others require you to freeze ice packs in advance. There are situations where you might not have access to a freezer, potentially rendering your cooling vest useless.

You wouldn’t want to delay your bike ride waiting for your vest to be ready. And you certainly wouldn’t want to miss the race start due to hassling with a cooling vest.

You’re going to find a lot of cooling vests made for firefighters and race car drivers – people that are working in harsh environments, but not necessarily exercising like an endurance athlete would. You have to weed those out because they’re not really practical for your use case.

Proper fit

“Will this fit me correctly and stay in place?”

Getting the right fit is super important because you want to be able to move freely but the vest needs to stay in one place.

First, you want a tight fit so the vest is not flopping around, catching the wind and slowing you down, etc. Second, it needs to be snug against your body to get the cooling effect. If there is a gap, the cool material and/or ice pack aren’t going to cool you down.

So you want one where the combination of size and available adjustments gets you the right fit. Some vests come in multiple sizes while others are very adjustable. There is no wrong way of doing it, as long as the end result is a properly-fitting vest.

If the vest simply pulls on, it might be more comfortable, but it means it’s critical that you buy the right size.

Vests that use straps and buckles might not look as comfortable, but because they allow for a custom fit, they could prove to be the most comfortable in the end.

Comfort

“Is this comfortable enough that I’ll actually wear it?”

While comfort is not the top priority, it’s not something to ignore. The vest has to be comfortable enough that it’s worth wearing.

You can get away with a slightly uncomfortable vest because you’ll likely forget about it once you’re pedaling hard!

But if it’s truly uncomfortable, it’s going to interfere with your workout. It would be better to seek an alternative workout than to wear an uncomfortable cooling vest.

The most crucial aspect here is that it should not restrict your range of motion. You should still be able to twist and rotate and swing your arms without issue.

You probably won’t have issues with bicycling, but any movement restrictions can impact your running, and it would be quite a problem if you’re using it for paddling.

In general, pay attention to the fabric type, weight, and arm openings.

Durability

“Am I going to get my money’s worth?”

Almost all cooling vests cost more than $100, and quite a few are close to or more than $200. So you expect a high-quality product.

You want the vest to be built well so that it lasts.

I’m sure we’ve all dealt with leaky ice packs in our lunch boxes before. You definitely don’t want that to happen here!

Perhaps you’ve had a broken zipper on a $20 wind vest. Eh, that’s mildly irritating. But a broken zipper on a $200 cooling vest, now that’s a serious problem!

I want a good warranty and/or easy-to-find replacement parts so I can repair it myself or take it to a local shop and have it repaired for a small fee.

Is a Cooling Vest Worth It?

Aside from the $50 budget pick, a lot of these vests cost $200 or more.

They cost more than some nice rain jackets and helmets do!

Is it worth it?

Well, to find out, we first need to understand how cooling vests work and why you might want one.

How does a cooling vest work?

The idea is to keep you cool. But how?

Well, it depends on the vest. There are three styles:

• Evaporative
• Phase change
• Water circulation

Each works differently. Here’s an explainer:

Evaporative cooling vests use the natural process of evaporation to cool you down. Before your workout, you submerge the vest in water. The special fabric or embedded cooling crystals absorb lots of water. While you’re wearing the vest, the water slowly evaporates. This pulls heat away from your body and releases it into the air.

These vests are thin, lightweight, and affordable. And they are the easiest to ‘recharge’ when electricity is not available.

Certainly less messy than dousing yourself with your water bottle every 15 minutes!

The downside is that these vests don’t work well when you’re stationary or when there is high humidity.

Phase change cooling vests use ice packs to keep you cool. You put the ice packs in the freezer, and once frozen, they go into strategically-placed pockets on the vest. As the ice packs “phase change” from frozen solid to liquid, they cool your body.

This style vest has a more pronounced cooling effect than an evaporative vest, so it keeps you colder. These vests work regardless of humidity and regardless of external airflow. So they work fine whether you’re out biking or just on your trainer.

The downside is that the cooling doesn’t last as long. And it takes longer to recharge between uses as the ice packs must be frozen again.

It’s not a particularly smart choice for endurance athletes unless you have a team car following you with spare ice packs in a cooler for you to swap in!

These vests generally start in the $200 range and go up from there. If you want to get really fancy, you can get phase change gel packs that are a big upgrade compared to regular ice packs. These contain a special phase-changing material rather than ice, and this stuff is made to freeze at 58 degrees F. So it’s easier to “freeze” it compared to water which needs to get down to 32 degrees F.

*There is also a hybrid style combining evaporative and phase change technologies into one vest. That’s my top pick for endurance athletes.

Water circulation vests work by circulating cool water through tubing around the wearer’s body. A circulatory vest will keep you cool in most any situation, so long as you don’t mind carrying a water reservoir and battery pack along!

This idea is based on technology developed by NASA, so you know it works. But these vests are very bulky and very expensive. They start around $250 but don’t be surprised to see one for $400.

These are not really an option for athletes other than wearing it on the stationary trainer during a pre-race warmup or using it for off-bike recovery or cold therapy.

Why use a cooling vest?

First of all, it’s just plain uncomfortable to be too hot. But more importantly, your performance decreases if you are too hot!

As your core temperature increases past a certain point, your performance decreases. Multiple studies have shown this.

For example, a study published in the Journal of Applied Physiology found that a 1-degree increase in core body temperature resulted in a 1-2% decrease in running performance. Another study, published in the Journal of Science and Medicine in Sport, found that a 1-degree increase in core body temperature resulted in a 1-3% decrease in cycling performance.

If you’re racing – or training for a race – that’s a big deal.

So wearing a cooling vest is not entirely about keeping you feeling cool. It’s more about keeping your core temperature within the normal range, preventing the overheating that’s going to lead to decreased performance.

It could also help prevent heat-related illnesses. Think of it like extra insurance on top of your body’s existing regulatory system.

When is it best to wear a cooling vest?

There are three great ways for endurance athletes to utilize a cooling vest:

• During training and racing
• During your pre-race warmup
• For cold therapy

If you’re training in the heat, wearing a cooling vest during your rides will help keep you cool, which helps you accomplish a more effective workout. If you are competing in an event where it’s so hot that it’s dangerous, you might even wear a cooling vest during the event. Typically you wouldn’t want that extra weight penalty, but in certain circumstances, it could be a worthwhile trade-off.

For shorter events where your pre-race warm-up is relatively long and intense, you can realize great benefits by wearing a cooling vest while you’re riding the trainer. This is especially common for time trials. Pay attention to the Tour de France coverage on the ITT stage – if it’s a hot day in July, many riders can be seen wearing cooling vests during their warm-ups.

You can also use a cooling vest for a form of cold therapy. It’s simpler and less scary than plunging into an ice bath!

Would a cooling vest double as a weighted vest?

No. Compared to a weighted vest, a cooling vest is negligible. These vests are at most 4-5 pounds. Compare that to 20-40 pounds for a real weighted vest!

So this wouldn’t really take the place of a weighted vest. (Not that I recommend wearing a weighted vest while cycling.)

Do I wear this vest under my jersey or over my jersey?

You’ll want your vest close to your skin, but also exposed to airflow. Given that cycling jerseys are made of wicking material and tend to be very form-fitting, it’s fine to wear the cooling vest on top of your jersey.

If you wanted to hide it, you might get away with wearing it over top of an undershirt base layer, but beneath a cycling jersey.

Where you’d get into trouble is if you wore it beneath a rain jacket. That would decrease the airflow and thus the evaporative cooling effect.

Can you wear both a cooling vest and a hydration pack?

Yes, you can wear a hydration pack over top of a cooling vest. But depending on the type of vest, it might not be super comfortable.

It could also be pretty heavy.

Can you make a DIY cooling vest?

Yes, you can make your own cooling vest alternative. It’s quick and cheap. All you need are ice cubes and pantyhose!

This is something I’ve seen Allen Lim do with the Garmin Slipstream team. He stuffs ice cubes into cut lengths of women’s panty hose and instructs riders to drape them around their necks or stuff them down their backs during stages.

How else can I stay cool?

In addition to wearing a cooling vest, consider covering up exposed skin by wearing arm cooling sleeves. (Basically the opposite of arm warmers.)

And don’t forget that wearing sunscreen can help keep you cool! It prevents your skin from absorbing heat from the sun. (Just make sure you get one that’s water-resistan or sweat-resistant.)

If that’s not enough, you’re better off indoors. (Here are the best indoor trainers that allow to keep riding even if you can’t leave the house.)

*Seriously, only ride outside if it’s safe. If you’re at risk of heat exhaustion, or you have forest fires nearby, stay inside and ride the trainer.

Show References

The post The Best Cooling Vest for Cyclists (and Runners, too) appeared first on CoachLevi.com.