Cocina Savant

Back in Action

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 28 Aug 2012 19:29:00 +0000

It has been a long long time since my thoughts have faded back to writing a post about what Dawn and I have been doing in the last year and a half since we wrote to you all. I have enjoyed reading some of the creative recipes and events you have all been a part of while we have been gone and I would be remiss if I did not mention I will respond on your activities soon. The restaurant, which took up every waking moment and worry is a thing of our past. Still thriving but under new ownership, it has aided us in the fight to live a more "normal" life; a life where we can spend time enjoying the heirloom tomatoes in all their bounty, cooking a pan of red chicken curry, or baking one of the fantastic loaves from James Beard that I missed oh so much.

I will not spend hours rambling on about what has happened in the past but saluting what is to come in the future. We have a growing and thriving eight and a half month old boy named Silas that grounds us daily when we forget how special each moment is at the stove or sharing meals with family. What an awesome summer this has been and there is a still of bit left to share with you all. We have all those friends on the Gulf Coast in our prayers as Isaac looms near and hope it will turn into nothing more than rain and a few gusts. We look forward to hearing back from you all and thank you for the former support you have shown us when we were more faithful to keep in touch.

Comfort Zone

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Sat, 22 Jan 2011 15:03:00 +0000

Things for the restaurant are flying by at a meteoric pace right now and it seems hard to slow down enough to do anything but work and cook for sustenance; yet Christmas was such an incredible respite from hectic life. Life moves at a slower pace in the South and I will forever love that and be linked to the concept of whole animal eating due to my grand and great grandparents heritage and my mother's gracious gift of the seminal texts by Fergus Henderson "The Whole Beast" and "Beyond Nose to Tail." I grew up with fried hog jowl and black eyed peas every New Year's Eve and have now graduated to Fergus' fried pigs tails and warm pig head salad.

There is something disconcerting to the American psyche to see an animal's head sitting on a plate. I was a bit offput at times trying to cook it but it was truly an opportunity for growth and liberation. The idea that one of the most delicious salads I have ever made was born out of a necessity meat- a cut that our ancestors took great pleasure in turning into headcheese. To think something beautiful can come from a cut that terrifies so many that would ultimately agree that the end result is a success.

The peppery arugula paired with the richness of the pork and the tang of the mustard vinaigrette harmonize as much as Henderson meant it to. We must throw caution to the wind and try to cook foods out of our comfort zone. You will find yourself with combinations beyond your wildest dreams when off bits are added to your repertoire.

Unlike my usual form of posting a recipe I am going to leave you with a final thought. Find one of Fergus Henderson's books and use it to change the way you look at waste and the way you approach cooking. May every bone have a chance for a stock and every head have a chance for a salad.
Happy cooking!

Painting by Numbers

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 11 Jan 2011 00:22:00 +0000

It's funny to me to take note of how people talk and share stories about food and meals, recipes in particular. Typically if I receive a recommendation for a recipe, it's because there is some family history to it, or its been copied on to a scant, wrinkled sheet of paper with little to no attachment to its original source. I'm not saying this is a bad thing. Food should be inspired and original. Nine times out of ten, I would say that citing off chef, cook book, and page number is less likely to make motivate me to try a recipe than hearing someone describe at as similair to a dish their grandmother made, or a recipe they could do something unique and interesting too.

For Christmas this year, Daniel and I received a plethora of cookbooks, including Nancy Silverton's Breads, Michael Ruhlman's Ratio, and Fergus Henderson's Nose to Tail Eating and Beyond Nose to Tail.With books like Breads and Ratio, it's easy to adapt recipe and personalize them to your own tastes. A cookie is a cookie by any other name, and a baguette is a baguette. These are framiliar, comfortable. This may not be as true with Fergus Henderson (more on that later), but there are still elements of framiliarity and comfort that give you courage to try something new, go out of order, add or subtract components, and basically make something your own.

Every once in awhile though, a recipe just catches your eye that I think you have to go at verbatim, teaspoon by teaspoon, step by step. It's these recipes that remind me of the 'paint by number' paintings I remember doing growing up. I'm much more comfortable with a pen and paper to write, than I am with a paintbrush and pallete to fill. Similairly, I'm much more comfortable whipping up a delightful dessert or warming soup than I am creating a silky veloute to combine with some odd meat puree. But, it's in these moments of unfamiliarity that you can be comforted (I think anyway) by the culinary delights created by others, and reawaken your culinary curiosity.

Mortadella Smear Taken from this recipe in the Jan/Feb Edition of Saveur
1/3 Cup Balsamic Vinegar
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp flour
1/3 cup chicken stock
1 lb mortadella without pistachios
1/3 cup heavy cream, whipped
1 small loaf of a crusty sourdough
4 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp crushed pistachios
1/2 cup arugula

1. Reduce vinegar by half in small saucepan over medium heat.Set aside.
2. In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Whisk in flour and continue whisking for one minute. Slowly whisk in stock and cook until thickend to make veloute. Set aside to cool.
3. In meat grinder or food processor, process mortadella until pureed. Transfer to bowl and fold in whipped cream and veloute sauce.
4. Rub bread with olive oil and toast.

To Serve: Smear the bread wit the mortadella, garnish with arugula, pistachios, and a drizzle of balsamic. Serve warm. Enjoy!

Published by Saveur, and originally taken from Chicago's Purple Pig restaurant, this produce a delightful and "devastatingly addictive" treat. A simple creamy, meaty, satisfying mortadella spread atop a toasty baguette, topped with a little bit of peppery arugula, nutty pistachios, and a splash of reduced balsamic for the tiniest hint of sweetness. Truthfully, this new recipe is nothing earth-shattering. If you've never tried mortadella, its basically an Italian bologna that looks, smells, and tastes, pretty much like bologna if you sample the variety without pistachios. Even if you're thrown off by the bologna comparison, it truly is an intriguing delight.When selecting the next post to blog about, someone may have scoffed at my desire to share this verbatim rendition of a recipe, but it struck me as something new, and something I may not have tried if someone hadn't drawn the lines and numbered the color palette or taste palate for me.

Holiday Turkey

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 04 Jan 2011 04:47:00 +0000

I have been reintroduced to the joys of fried turkey in recent months. What a holiday delight to pull such an utterly delicious and gleaming bird out of the depths of peanut oil. That moment of realization that it is juicier than any roasted turkey you have ever laid your lips on is truly a cherished one.

Turkey expedition number one began in the back yard of a friend of mine's apartment. He had injected an eighteen pound turkey the night before with worcestershire sauce and cajun seasoning. We rubbed the outside with cajun seasoning to add an extra element and lit the gas to get the party started. After lowering the large bird into the grease and checking it about an hour later the outside was an astounding shade of sienna that immediately shouted "eat me."

The result was very similar to the second turkey I cooked for Christmas dinner although I sincerely wish I would have photographed the first one Nate cooked. The grandness of the larger bird is certainly an undertaking well worth your time. And all those around you will thank you for your efforts.

The Christmas bird had to share room with a ham so we opted for a twelve pound bird so as not to overwhelm my mother-in-laws already full fridge. The holiday goodies were flowing from the homemade fudge, buckeyes, and chocolate covered cherries, to homemade egg nog and bacon cinnamon rolls. I can not promise when or if we will post some of those recipes. The bacon pecan cinnamon rolls were certainly a hit even with Dawn's grandparents despite their initial hesitant glances.

But after all the holiday celebrations and preparations on Christmas morning I set out to cook a bird that was dressed to impress. By that I mean I tried to spice up the preconceived sage nuances that I was told every turkey should have (sorry that I disagree). I mixed up a nice bowl of spices to blanket the bird from head to toe. But, after the meal the synopsis was unanimous that whether you call it unsophisticated or countrified or delicious for that matter- everyone agreed it was one of the best turkeys they had ever eaten.

Cajun Sage Fried Turkey

12 # thoroughly thawed and dried turkey

1/4 C kosher salt

3 T crushed black pepper

1 1/2 T smoked paprika

2 T dried sage

1 T ground coriander

1 T white pepper

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

The night before you are going to cook the turkey mix the seasonings together thoroughly and rub into the outside and underneath the skin of the turkey on the breasts. Refrigerate overnight and pull out of the fridge an hour and a half before you are going to cook it.

Heat your turkey fryer up to 355 to 360 degrees, because your oil will cool down a bit with the turkey in it. Lower your thoroughly dried turkey (preferably on a tube to keep it centered) into the oil and cook at 350 degrees for approximately three and a half minutes per pound or forty minutes for an twelve pound turkey. Check with a thermometer in the breast to assure the meat is 170 degrees. Pull out of the oil carefully and allow to cool for at least fifteen minutes. Enjoy with a nice glass of cava.

The Beginnings of Tradition

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Sat, 18 Dec 2010 14:31:00 +0000

Since I think I expressed my adoration for this time of year earlier, I wont bother with reaffirming those sentiments once again. Instead, I think I'll offer for your close approaching Holiday pleasure, what is quickly becoming a tradition in our home, an annual Bûche de Noël, aka a Yule Log.

The Bûche de Noël is closely related to (or has almost replaced) the tradition of the "Yule Log," when the carefully selected Christmas log was burned to bring warmth and prosperity to the home. Although it's now used in relation to Christmas traditions, it had its origins in a "Winter Solstice" tradition. Some traditions suggest the yule log was burned with the remnants of last years log, while others suggest the 'log' was actual a bundle of sticks tied together, and as each binding broke they toasted with a beverage. There were apparently many variations of the Yule Log, but as people slowly replaced the hearth with other forms of heating in many countries, the tradition slowly declined and was replaced with the edible cake version.

The cake itself is typically prepared using some sort of sponge cake, buttercream frosting, and various decorations possibly including branches, fresh berries, meringue mushrooms, and powdered sugar. Once iced, the log is usually sliced and placed on the side or top as another branch. I didn't want the cake to dry out (and what's wrong with more chocolate!), so I iced this piece as well.

We had our first version of the Bûche de Noël a couple years ago as part of our Christmas Eve / Dad's Birthday celebration, and have managed to find an excuse to make a new one each year since. The extra dose of sweet from chocolate ganache I use to top the log makes for an exceptionally sweet dessert that looks nice and festive sitting on the table with just a little extra adornment.This is by far the most enjoyable recipe of the three that I've tried, so I thought it an appropriate time to share it with you.

For the Cake:
1/4 cup water
1/3 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 large egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar, divided
1/2 cup flour
4 large egg whites
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1. Preheat oven to 425. Line a jelly roll baking sheet with a 17" x 10-1/2" with parchment paper. Butter & dust with flour.

2. Boil water. Pour over cocoa and begin to stir. Add vanilla and continue to stir until smooth.

3. In a separate bowl, combine egg yolks and 1/3 cup sugar. Beat until smooth and pale yellow. Add chocolate mixture and beat until smooth and well combined.Add flour and beat one more minute.

4. In a clean bowl, beat egg white until soft peaks form. Add cream of tartar and sugar and beat until it holds stiff, glossy peaks.

5. Using a spatula gently fold 1/2 of meringue mixture into chocolate. Gently fold in remaining.

6. Using a pastry bag with wide tip (or coupler), place mixture into bag and pipe in long rows filling the prepared pan.

7. Bake cake 8 minutes, until it springs back when touched in the middle.

8. Remove from oven and place on a rack to cool. Place a damp towel over the cake. When cool, invert it onto the towel and gently peel parchment paper away.

For the Filling Icing:
1 Stick Salted Butter, at room temperature

1/2 Tsp Pure Peppermint Extract
1/2 lb Powdered Sugar
3-4 Tbsp Milk
2 Tbsp Dutch Process Cocoa

1. Cream butter. Add flavoring. Add cocoa, powdered sugar a 1/2 cup at a time adding milk when needed to achieve desired consistency.

For the Ganache (outer frosting):
1-1/4 Cup Heavy Cream
10 Oz Semi-Sweet Chocolate finely chopped

1. Bring heavy cream to a boil. Pour over chopped chocolate and stir until smooth. Chill covered, and stir occasionally until set.

For the decorations, use your imagination! You can sift powdered sugar over the cake and make Meringue Mushrooms as I did here, or you can do whatever suits you, your guests, and your Christmas or Holiday wishes.

Enjoy!

Seasonal Faux Pas

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Mon, 13 Dec 2010 02:56:00 +0000

I know we all have predicaments of craving a dish that is far from seasonal but sounds amazing at the moment. I got home from work the other night and was really thinking about some perfectly cripy edged and melting buttery-centered crab cakes. I have been to Baltimore and sampled some excellent specimens and some that were subpar, but the object of perfection in my opinion has a hint of sea saltiness, a bit of an herbal note, and a hit of spiciness to balance out the richness.

With the impending snow on the way, that is now piling up, I had crab meat up to my wrists and the scent of Old Bay wafting around the kitchen. I have been dabbling in curing over the last couple months with a simple bacon and pancetta under my belt and dreams of a meat grinder in my near future. The herbal salty kick of the pancetta with crisp edged crab cakes resting atop a thin sliced tomato seemed like an excellent dinner, even with the snow flinging itself against the windows.

Sriracha Bay Crab Cakes
1 # crab claw meat
1 1/2 T mayonnaise
1 tsp mustard
1/2 tsp sriracha chili sauce, or to taste

7 T buttered cracker crumbs, such as Ritz
1 tsp Old Bay seasoning, plus more for garnish
1/2 tsp dried oregano, plus more for garnish
1 egg
1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce

3 oz. pancetta sliced into batons
canola oil for frying
2 tomatoes thinly sliced

Mix all the crab cake ingredients together and form into patties the size of the tomato you are serving them with (about the circumference of a baseball seems just right). Stick the cakes onto a sheetpan in the freezer for 20 minutes to chill enough to make them maintain shape. Fry pancetta for about 3 minutes in a cast iron skillet, or until a deep mahogany shade and remove, leaving drippings in pan. Add enough oil to fill pan 1/2 inch deep. Fry crab cakes until they are a crisp pecan brown, regulating heat until it warms the cakes all the way through when both sides are crisp. Serve crab cakes over a tomato slice with pancetta cracklings on top sprinkled with oregano and Old Bay. Enjoy.

It's the Hap-Hapiest Season of All

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Wed, 08 Dec 2010 22:50:00 +0000

Christmas is undoubtedly my favorite time of year. There's so much to enjoy and to do from decorating the tree, decorating the house, enjoying a plethora of Christmas movies, making homemade gifts (a tradition in our home), putting gingerbread houses together, wrapping presents, Christmas parties, get-togethers and events. You have so many more opportunities to reach out into you community in some way, and people are for the most more giving and kind than any other time of the year. And of course, let's not forget the food. The cookies, the candy, the egg nog, Christmas Eve dinner for my family (with my Dad's birthday on Christmas Eve), Christmas morning goodies, and finally Christmas Dinner. Yes, my jeans are groaning as I write this.

The only problem (if you even want to call it that) that arises with the holidays is there just is never enough time to try and squeeze in absolutely everything you want to do or try. I probably have a list of a hundred different peppermint Christmas treats I want to try, not to mention dozens of cookies and candy recipes. There is just no time to try every new holiday recipe and still enjoy the holidays. I guess sometimes, you can either just choose to settle with only three types of Christmas candy (instead of seven), or you could throw in a couple of these quick Christmas Candy treats.

I’m not sure why, but I have never made peppermint bark. Never. I’ve enjoyed it plenty over the past few Christmas holidays, but never actually made it myself. So, over the weekend we were booked with Christmas related plans and I thought I would make a batch to tote along on our festivities. Low and behold, when I consulted my trusted candy guide, candy thermometer laid out and ready to go, I quickly discovered that this is probably the easiest candy in the world to make. The hardest part is probably breaking up the candy canes. It's so easy, in fact, that at Daniel's suggestion for an additional version, I quickly whipped up this "Egg Nog Bark" to enjoy as well. Safe for the kiddies, don't worry.

Peppermint Bark

1 12 oz bag white chocolate

About 3 regular sized candy canes, crushed

½ tsp peppermint extract

1. 1. Line baking sheet or glass baking dish with wax paper.

2. 2. Carefully melt chocolate (over low heat or preferably in a double-boiler), being careful not to scorch.

3. 3. Once melted, add peppermint extract and a handful of crushed candy canes (less than half).

4. 4. Carefully pour chocolate mixture on wax paper lined sheet or dish. If necessary, carefully spread to even out slightly. Quickly top with remaining candy cane bits.

5. 5. Allow to set (15-20 minutes). Break apart, and enjoy!

To dress it up, first melt 1 (12 oz) bag of chocolate (milk/dark/semisweet your choice), adding ½ tsp peppermint extract and pour into wax paper lined glass baking dish. Follow above directions, pouring mixture on top of regular chocolate.

Egg Nog Bark

1 12 oz bag white chocolate

2 tsp nutmeg, divided*

1 tsp rum flavoring

1. 1. Line baking sheet or glass baking dish with wax paper.

2. 2. Carefully melt chocolate (over low heat or preferably in a double-boiler), being careful not to scorch.

3. 3. Once melted, add rum flavoring and one teaspoon of nutmeg.

4. 4. Carefully pour chocolate mixture on wax paper lined sheet or dish. If necessary, carefully spread to even out slightly. Quickly top with remaining nutmeg, using more or less as desired for appearance.

5. 5. Allow to set (15-20 minutes). Break apart, and enjoy!

* Typically, I’m a strong proponent of using freshly ground nutmeg. It’s relatively inexpensive and packs a strong flavor. BUT, in this case, because you are going to want to use more for appearance purposes, I would use a high quality ground nutmeg.

Last, but certainly not least, it wouldn’t be Christmas without fudge, and nor would it be Christmas without sharing a family story. Luckily, this recipe will give you both.

Given my baking and all things sweet addiction, for our first Christmas together as husband and wife I went on a baking extravaganza, making peppermint fudge, chocolate fudge, tons of cookies, and tossing in this super easy peanut butter fudge for a last minute gift for co-workers. Our next Christmas together, on my first day of baking, I did not begin with all three fudges. Instead, I began with my assortment of cookies, and only had time to do a peppermint fudge. My sweet husband comes home and as I show him the gems of my days labor one by one, he looks perplexed and confused. As I show him the peppermint fudge (that is somewhat labor intensive I might add), he responds, “but I like peanut butter fudge.”

So, despite giving him a hard time every year for this incident, every year we also enjoy this super easy, takes-you-longer-to-do-the-dishes-afterward, peanut butter fudge.

5 Minute Peanut Butter Fudge

1/2 cup butter, plus more for greasing pan

1-1/2 cups peanut butter

1/2 cup half & half

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 pounds powdered sugar

1. 1. Grease 10x10 dish with butter.

2. 2. Pour all ingredients into a microwave safe dish.

3. 3. Microwave on high for three minutes.

4. 4. Stir well with a wooden spoon.

5. 5. Pour into prepared dish. Allow to cool and set.

6. 6. Cut and store in between sheets of wax paper in air-tight container.

Enjoy!

Winter Warmer

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 14:19:00 +0000

We are trying hard to take more pictures of our food. It is not that we quit cooking or thinking of you all. Quite the opposite in fact. It seems like ages since I have posted and talked to you all. As I was cooking a chili that would offset the cold weather, the memories of enjoyable dialogue and sharing with you all flooded back.

The more I contemplate chili and the way so many of us relate to it, from the simplistic homage to hormel to the offspring of time and effort with countless ingredients, the more mysterious and central it seems. The varieties are as countless as there are mothers as was evidenced at our church chili cook-off. Everything from vegan pumpkin to a spicy beef pomegranate version. It strikes me that chili may be as close to Indian food as any one of us have ever tried, at least without the beef. All the glorious mix of textures and spices are combined to create a dish as integral to our childhoods as it is warming in the middle of winter. It feels awfully good to be blogging again, and I certainly hope you can circle the table for a steaming bowl of chili in the near future.

Mahogany Port Chili

2 tsp. fresh ground coriander

1 T smoked paprika

1 tsp. vindaloo

8 deseeded and rinsed ancho chiles

5 deseeded and rinsed guajillo chiles

1 cinnamon stick

2 bay leaves

1 T sea salt

2 T cocoa powder

3 small yellow onions diced

4 garlic cloves minced

2 T raisins

1 15 oz. can black beans, drained and rinsed

1 15 oz. can kidney beans, drained and rinsed

24 oz. 85/15 ground beef

1 28 oz. can crushed tomatoes

3 T ruby port

2 T canola oil plus more for sauteing

2 T masa harina

3/4 C grated cheddar cheese for granish

Combine port, chiles, peppers, oil and raisins in a food processor. Pulse until pureed. Meanwhile brown the ground beef with the canola oil for about 6 minutes. Remove beef from the pot and saute the onion, garlic, and ground seasonings in the beef drippings until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add tomatoes, beans, beef, pureed chile paste, bay leaves, and cinnamon stick. Mix until a rich red color is achieved then add the cocoa powder to bring the chili to a dark mahogany color. Cover and simmer over low heat for approximately 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the masa harina and stir to combine well adding a pinch more to thicken if needed. Enjoy with a sprinkle of sharp cheddar cheese.

Memorable Meals

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Fri, 01 Oct 2010 20:38:00 +0000

This month has been a whirlwind of activities other than blogging. In that category we are not doing very well, but I am attempting to rectify that with a pretty awesome pasta that is conducive to the hectic lifestyle. On the other hand, reading the newest Saveur with its 25 most memorable meals makes my mind go back to a time when I couldn't conceive the impact of food on my life. I am not sure whether any of you have thought about your most memorable meals but mine goes back to around the age of ten when seventeen of my Dad's family would gather every Sunday after church to eat lunch at my great-grandmother and great-grandad's house. The spread seems so enormous to me in restrospect from the fried venison backstrap, mashed potatoes and gravy, corn on the cob, green beans amply studded with country ham, steaming golden cornbread, an iceberg salad with garden tomatoes, mustard greens also studded with dark red bits of ham and garlic, crispy fried crooked neck squash, and plenty of ice cold tea and lemonade to go around. It seems unbelievable to think that we would sit down to a spread like that every Sunday or even sometimes Nanny's homemade deep fried taco shells just waiting to be filled with ground beef and tomatoes.

My love and respect of food has grown so much since then as I have realized the time and effort my eighty year old great-grandmother, Nanny, would put into such a feast. Since then I have eaten foie gras, duck prosciutto, escargot, and countless other delicacies that she probably had never even heard of. But the fact of the matter still remains that those incredible meals and every one in the future are always best shared with family and friends.

You might be asking yourself what a Southern man, with a rich heritage of individuals who were/are involved in small town politics, dairy farming, and steel and factory work, has doing opening a pizzeria. I have thought about that many times during the stages of planning and I think Frank Stitt of Bottega and Bottega Café in Birmingham, Alabama has hit the nail on the head. Italian cooking has a real kinsmanship with the Southern-American fresh ingredient mindset and sheer love of large family-style meals. I am still fleshing out some of my own embedded links between the two, but the more Italian/Southern food I prepare the more it feels right and I hope this dish rings true to you as well. No matter what your circumstance, food shared with family is one of the most elemental and extraordinary events.

The other day I was tinkering around with a San Marzano tomato sauce and it certainly played an important part in the creation of the dish. Sometimes we are forced to be more practical than eccentric minded and often times it grounds me enough to create something amazing. Chickpeas also play a roll in this pasta venture because I had a can left over from purchasing too many for making hummus last weekend. Their versatility never ceases to amaze me and I am forever grateful. They are one of those canned ingredients that is every bit of as good as its dried counterpart.

Orecchiette works like a charm in this dish cupping the chickpeas and sauce as any marriage of pasta, ingredients, and sauce should. A hint of floral rosemary and a handful of diced potatoes thrown in while the sauce is simmering create a symphony in a flash. The porcine nuggets of Sopressata give that Southern/Italian umami combination that makes me feel right at home and hopefully you will agree. If you have a memorable meal you would like to share we would be glad to hear it.

Pasta Sopressata

8 oz. orriechette
2 oz. sopressata, diced
1 C. homemade tomato sauce (mine was canned San Marzano tomatoes, garlic, salt, pepper, and a few rosemary leaves)
1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/2 C fontinella cheese, grated for sprinkling
1 sprig rosemary, leaves removed and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 russet potato, finely diced
1/2 C reserved pasta water
1 pinch dried red pepper flakes
salt/pepper
olive oil for drizzling

Begin sauteing the garlic and sopressata in a large saucepan. Meanwhile bring a large pot of salted water to boil for the orriechette. Cook orriechette three minutes shy of al dente and drain reserving the pasta water. Add the potatoes and chickpeas to the saucepan and cook together for another minute or so and then add the tomato sauce, rosemary, and pepper flakes. Once sauce has reduced a bit and potatoes are nearly done add orrecchiette and stir to combine. The sauce will be rather thick but add the pasta water by spoonfuls to make the pasta come together. Once the pasta sauce has reached the desired consistency taste and adjust seasoning lightly with salt and pepper. Spoon into shallow bowls or saucers and top with grated fontinella cheese and a drizzle of olive oil. This recipe makes enough for two or three but can be multiplied to be enjoyed with friends and family.

Braising and Business

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 14 Sep 2010 20:59:00 +0000

The last month has been a whirlwind of activity and business for Dawn and I and I am sure that shows in our infrequent posts. Last weekend we visited The Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland which is run by Chef/Owner Jonathon Sawyer, one of the 2010 Food&Wine top new chefs. The food was imaginative and superb, beginning with the complimentary country pork pate served with fresh baked bread to the deconstructed pan seared pork chop saltimbocca including country ham and pommes puree instead of the more traditional prosciutto and polenta. The dish truly shined with the addition of a maple glaze on the pork chop, but that gets me to the main reason why we have been so busy and infrequent in our posts.

We have been crunching numbers and researching over the last couple months in preparation of opening a small pizza venture here in Columbus. It is simultaneously nerve racking and exciting. Exciting because of the opportunity to bring extraordinary pizza to an area with a million pizza places and a mere handful of outstanding pies. Nerve racking because the economy is in the shape that it is. We are working on bridging the gap between locally sourced quality ingredients and affordability that customers are looking for in our modern time. But, I will not ramble on forever about the future when there is a dish I want to share with you.

I recently finished a book by Bill Buford titled "Heat: an amateur's adventures as kitchen slave, line cook, pasta maker, and apprentice to a Dante-quoting butcher in Tuscany," that resonated with me when I saw beef short ribs in the market. The preparations of meat that are prepared by Dario Cecchini are wonderful and foreign to me in their homage to Italian tradition. This foreignness could be the fascination toward the amazing cuisine of Northern Italy. I altered the slow cooked beef dish to incorporate short ribs with a similar focus on rusticity and the divine nature of slow cooking tough cuts.

One aspect that always draws me toward braising, other than the delicious melt in your mouth texture, is the simplicity. With a handful of ingredients, including beef short ribs, carrots, garlic, wine, milk, rosemary, red pepper flakes, butter, polenta, salt and cinnamon, magical things happen. The name of the dish is 20 Hour Short Ribs over Polenta and Cinnamon Brown Butter Sauce. I hope you will try it, even when you are strapped for time and don't feel like making something after work. It is snap to prepare the night before you are going to eat it. The oven does all the heavy lifting and you can sleep and go to work then pull it out of the oven in time for dinner with only a quick polenta and sauce to prepare.

20 Hour Short Ribs over Polenta and Cinnamon Brown Butter Sauce

1 1/2 - 2 # beef short ribs

2 carrots peeled and chopped in eighths

4 garlic cloves roughly chopped

20 oz. cabernet sauvignon or other old world red

2 T dried rosemary

1 T dried red pepper flakes

Preferably brown short ribs for a few minutes in the pot you are going to cook them on the stovetop. If you are strapped for time you can skip this step. After you have browned the short ribs add the other ingredients, stir well, and arrange evenly. Transfer in the covered pot to a 250 degree oven for twenty hours checking once or twice to assure there is still a bit of liquid. After the liquid is nearly evaporated and the ribs are falling apart tender remove from the oven.

Cinnamon Brown butter sauce

8 T unsalted butter

1 T light brown sugar

2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp sea salt

Melt butter until all the milk solids have evaporated then add the other ingredients and stir to incorporate dissolving the salt and sugar. Continue cooking over low heat until browned.

Polenta

2 1/4 C whole milk

2/3 C instant polenta

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

1/2 cup good (2 year) grated parmigiano reggiano

1 T unsalted butter

Bring the milk to a boil in a heavy bottom saucepan. Add the polenta, pepper, and cheese whisking to combine. Turn the heat down to low and add butter at the time the polenta is the desired consistency. Whisk to combine and spoon onto plates.

Spoon polenta onto plates then short ribs and carrots on top. Drizzle cinnamon brown butter, a sprinkle of parmigiano, and pepper flakes on top and enjoy with a nice supple Primitivo.

Who says?

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:12:00 +0000

There are few things in life more rewarding than a tasty breakfast. Sadly, for most of us I think, we tend to miss out on the many joys offered by this one meal. The type of brekfast I'm referring to isn't the one doused in milk or peeled back from a plastic container. Despite my love for scones and the warm goodness they entail, nor is it a warm scone with homemade gooseberry jam (maybe I'll share that with you later, this summer's favorite new treat). Those are all well and good, but the kind of breakfast I'm reminescing about with you today is the super traditional, capital b, Breakfast.

Nothing quite beats the traditional breakfast. While I can't (and know very people who can) have the bacon or sausage, some form of of eggs, and pancakes or waffles every morning, there are some mornings where I pine and yearn for the extra twenty minutes to perfume the air with frying bacon and to sink my teeth into the paradoxical crispy chewyness of the perfect waffle.

When such yearnings strike, its rather uncommon to actually be able to live up to and enjoy them that morning. Usually, I've sacrificed said breakfast for an extra twenty minutes of sleep, or for an early start on the Saturday morning bustle, and I have a feeling most of you probably have too. Luckily however, no one ever said breakfast isn't just as good for dinner. Hence the inspiration, for these:

These my friends aren't any ordinary waffles. To make them into a meal almost all on their own (that pair quite nicely with a summer goat cheese and arugula salad oddly enough), these guys take some extra care and devotion. First, they require a perfectly cooked piece of bacon Now, I'm a crispy bacon girl. I love bacon, but any sign of chewyness and I've lost my appetite. With these though, it's important first and foremost to fry them until barely crisp, meaning that the very edges should be crisp all the way around and starting to darken slightly, the middle should be firming up, but you don't want the super crispness on its way to burnt texture. They'll cook a teeny bity more when you get them into the waffle iron ad you don't want bacon pebbles.

Second, is timing. Breakfast is all about timing. Waking up early enough. Cooking the eggs at the appropriate time so they don't become rubber. Cooking the waffles at the right time so they don't become soggy, etc. This dish is no different. So, you'll want to cook your bacon, leaving enough time for the pan to cool slightly.This will ensure you don't make scrambled eggs in the waffle batter later.

Last, is variety. We were lucky enough on a recent trek to Cleveland to score an assortment of cheddar cheese cubes. Although I had envisioned an awesome grilled cheese out of it, this proved to be even more rewarding, giving just the touch of variety in each bite to keep you wanting more.

Bacon Waffles with Apples and Cheddar

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 3/4 cups whole milk

2 large eggs

4 tbsp bacon grease, cooled

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

6-8 pieces of bacon cooked until almost crisp and crumbled

4 oz assorted cheddar cheeses (white, smoked, sharp, etc).

2 Apples, sliced thin*

1. Prepare bacon as described.

2. Preheat waffle iron as needed. Combine flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar.

3. In a separate bowl, combine milk and eggs. Carefully whisk in melted butter and cooled bacon grease.

4. Combine wet and dry ingredients, whisking to remove most lumps.

5. Cook waffles per manufactures instructions, sprinkling with crumbled bacon before closing iron.

6. When waffles are done, top with crumbled or shredded cheese while warm.

7. Top with apples.

* You can top the waffles with raw apples sliced thin for a fresher taste. For a truly decadent treat, saute them for a few minutes in the same pan you cooked the bacon in.

There's not much else to say here. It's simply a magical marriage of apple pie and cheddar, and a breakfast super waffle. Enjoy!

Pizza Night

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 13:07:00 +0000

Some weekends are so enjoyable you wish they would never end- and when Monday rolls around you wish Saturday was the day that followed. That sums up my sentiment at the moment. My brother flew into Columbus on Thursday to visit and we made the most of every meal and adventure. In fact the pizza night was a mixture of both from trying to find room to let the formed pizza dough rest to spilling an egg into the oven. If you're curious what it looks like to have dough resting on all open counters and inside the microwave or what egg smells like cooking on the door of an oven you should have been there. Well, minus the unpleasant egg smell.

Before he came up I planned a carnitas dinner and a pizza night since he is a big fan of both and to attempt better organization. Dawn had to work during the day while we had all the fun, which left the cooking and shopping responsibilities to me. And, as I told someone the other day, Columbus is a city of markets. From small chain grocery's and independent grocers to ethnic markets and corporate giants. If the ingredient is available in the country, for a population of just over three quarters of a million there is a good chance you can find it here.

Maybe it is due to the ingredient selection but I am an equal opportunity pizza topping guy. I am not going to gawk at people throwing something other than mozzarella and basil on a pie. I picked up some leeks, potatoes, and pepper bacon while at the market on Thursday. (It sounds more like the making of an Irish dinner than Italian, right?) Saturday I found some uber cool white sweet plums at the farmers market. In the fridge was a chunk of Romano cheese that goes well with a variety of pizza toppings. Throw in a few eggs that were mentioned in the earlier fiasco and in my book you have the making of a pretty darn good pizza night. Oh, and did I mention we watched Raging Bull while he was up too. You get the picture. It was an awesome weekend that I will remember for a long time.

Pizza Dough

3 C bread flour
1 C durum flour
1 T extra virgin olive oil plus more for coating the bowl
1 1/4 C filtered room temperature water (approximate, depending on humidity)
1 T honey
1 T active dry yeast

Dump all ingredients into a bowl and mix with a fork until it forms a shaggy shaggy ball. With a mixer and dough hook or by hand, knead ten minutes or until dough is shiny and smooth. Splash a drop of olive oil into the bowl to coat the dough ball and the sides of the bowl to keep it moist and from sticking too bad.

At this point the dough can be frozen for a week or kept in the refrigerator for a couple days. Just bring to room temperature and let dough relax. This make ahead version works in a pinch because the dough still rises some in the fridge or has to come to room temperature and rise for a good hour out of the freezer. I made the dough and let it rise covered on the counter for four hours. Stretch to the preferred thickness and cover with pizza toppings. I split the dough into fourths and sprinkled a mist of cornmeal on parchment paper and on top to roll it out extra thin with a rolling pin so it cooks up nice and crisp. Form a small lip, also known as the cornichone, which will swell nicely on the heated baking stone.

Plum and Bacon Pizza

6 pieces thick cut pepper bacon
1 to 2 small white plums or purple, halved and thinly sliced
romano cheese, parmigiano reggiano, or hard cheese of your choice

Preheat pizza stone in a 550 degree oven for an hour. Cook some of the fat out of the bacon but not until it is crisp or it will burn while the pizza is cooking. Leaving the bacon somewhat soft also allows the fat to cook into the plums. The good thing about Romano is it adds flavor without detracting from the ingredients or crust. Spread plum slices out in a single layer and top with diced bacon and then cheese. Slide pizza on parchment paper onto pizza stone and cook for 5 minutes then broil for one to two minutes to crisp and enjoy.

Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Pizza

6 slices thick cut bacon
3 eggs
sprinkle of sel gris salt
romano cheese, parmigiano reggiano, or hard cheese of your choice

Preheat pizza stone in a 550 degree oven for an hour. Cook some of the fat out of the bacon but not until it is crisp or it will burn while the pizza is cooking. You can also cook the bacon crisp and sprinkle the bacon crumbles on top after cooking the pizza. Crack the eggs evenly out onto the pie, sprinkle diced bacon on top, and grate cheese on top. Slide pizza on parchment paper from peel onto baking stone. Cook for 4 minutes then broil for a little over a minute. Make sure not to cook too long or the yolks will become tough. Sprinkle salt on top and enjoy.

Leek and Potato Pizza

1 leek washed thoroughly and finely julienned, mostly white with some tender green
1 medium russet potato peeled and sliced thinly with mandoline
a few drops of extra virgin olive oil
sprinkle of coarse sea salt
romano cheese, parmigiano reggiano, or hard cheese of your choice

Preheat pizza stone in a 550 degree oven for an hour. Place potatoes evenly in a single layer on dough and sprinkle salt on top. Spread leek heavily on top of pizza and shake a few drops of olive oil for moisture. Grate cheese on top and slide pizza on parchment onto baking stone and cook five to six minutes. Broil for about two minutes or until cornichone is a deep walnut color and leek tips are just browned. Enjoy.

Broccoli Breakfast Blogaversery

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 01:23:00 +0000

Wow. It's hard to believe that it has only been a year since we decided to start sharing our kitchen adventures with the rest of the world. It seems as if most people who celebrate their first year cook something extravagent to share and celebrate. But instead of sharing the wonderful leg of lamb and buttermilk polenta meal we shared on our actual blogging anniversary, instead I opted for a throwback of some of our first pictures. In other words, giving you something completely unidentifiable, and highly questionable. At least this is slightly more focused than our first blogging attempts.The picture above is of a green egg salad by the way, just in case you were dying of curiosity.

Although the questionable picture is a small reminder of how far (some) of our pictures and hopefully our writing has come since the early days, the recipes really signify the beauty of the blogging world. Like so many of the recipes we've tried on our adventures, even something as simple as a scrambeled egg salad has bits and pieces of inspiration and techniques picked up from browsing the blogging world. One of the first factoids we came across when we started blogging was that you could actually use those huge stems of broccoli once you get done with the florets. All you have to do is peel them, and voila! This was somewhat of a revelation to us at the time, and maybe there's someone out there who is unaware of this now.

Over the last year we've gone on many adventures, from our Ohio Wine Dinner and Buitoni Dinner, to Daniel's two months of non-stop bread baking, and to the many culinary adventures we've been glad to pursue but haven't had the camera or time to turn into a post to share with you. Even when we don't share our posts with everyone, the feedback and encouragement we've received from you all has given us even more ambition and an ever growing desire to share our new adventures with you. So thanks!

Broccoli Pancakes (makes 4)
2 Broccoli Stems, peeled and shredded, divided
2 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves
1 egg
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/4 cup flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
Additional oil for pan
Additional salt and pepper to taste

1. In food processor, puree all but 1/4 cup cup shredded broccoli with garlic cloves, and olive oil. Remove from processor and combine with one egg.
2. In a separate bowl, sift together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, salt and pepper. Combine with broccoli and egg mixture. Add buttermilk slowly to achieve right consistency.
3. Heat skillet over medium high heat with additional olive oil. When pan is hot, add half of reserved broccoli and divide in half. Quickly saute. When broccoli begins to brown , spread each pile into a thin layer and top each with 1/4 of the pancake batter. When batter begins to bubble, flip.
4. Repeat with remaining broccoli and pancake batter.

Green Egg Broccoli Salad

5 Eggs
2 Broccoli Stems, peeled and chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove
2 tbsp buttermilk
salt and pepper to taste
1 medium sized carrot, peeled and shredded
1 tbsp soy sauce

1. In food processor, puree broccoli stems, olive oil, and garlic.Combine broccoli, eggs, and buttermilk and whisk quickly.
2. Heat skilled over medium heat. Add eggs and scramble, adding salt and pepper to taste.
3. When eggs are finished (they will be a different texture than regular scramble eggs because of the extra moisture from the broccoli), plate and top with a handful a carrots and a splash of soy sauce.

So, thanks for a great year!!! Let us know if there's anything you'd like to see on our blog in the next year so we can continue to grow and improve. Who knows where the next year will take us!

Sailing Away

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Sat, 07 Aug 2010 13:25:00 +0000

It sounds dreadful to be unhappy with summer weather. Almost like you are ungrateful to the fact that fresh produce is abundant and the sun is generally shining. I have a problem with, the lack of sunshine and the need to grill even during the dreary overcast days to trick myself into thinking the sun is out. Maybe it is a spoiled mindset from growing up in Florida, but I feel entitled to a certain allotment of UV rays every day during the dog days.

The other day when I was tricking myself that the sun was out and it would be marvelous to be sipping a Pimm's Cup and breathing quintessential charcoal fumes while the meat is marinating. Instead, the weather was reminiscent of San Francisco haze but there was still chicken marinating and smoke trickling out of the Weber. In line with tricking myself there was sunlight trickling through the leaves of the trees, I planned a dinner with everything we love about summer- a salad highlighting cool fresh fruits and vegetables and spicy grilled meats as a counterbalance.

Jerk chicken is such a classic summer dish but sometimes classics should be updated to stay current and stylish. New peppers and new colors that change the whole outlook of the grilled bird. Departing from the familiar orange hue imparted by the Habanero peppers in the marinade, I switched it up a bit by adding Serrano's to elevate the marinade to an intriguing shade of green. This imparted a fresh heat alongside the musky bitterness of the ground allspice and cloves.

But what is a nice grilled piece of meat alone on a plate without an opposite or arch rival to show the strengths and differences. A cool bright salad of soft nectarines and mangoes with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers and crisp cabbage all laced with a peppery allspice vinaigrette. All superheroes begin in similar ways and the salad must marinate for optimum performance just like the moist heat of the chicken that brings to mind sunny days whether it is outside or not.

Emerald Jerk Chicken

1 3-5 # chicken cut in 8 pieces

3 serrano peppers, 1 deseeded

1 bunch green onions

5 garlic cloves

1 T allspice berries, ground

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

1/2 C extra virgin olive oil

1/4 C apple juice

5 grinds black pepper

a couple pinches of sea salt

After chicken has been cut into pieces, pulse all the marinade ingredients in a food processor until fully incorporated. It helps to grind the spices before everything is added together so they are ground fine enough. They can also be crushed in a mortar. Place chicken in a large glass bowl and pour marinade over and allow to marinate for at least an hour at room temperature or up to four hours refrigerated.

Grill over hardwood charcoal and wet mesquite chips until done (approximately 170 degrees) depending on heat of grill. Enjoy.

Summer Salad

1 nectarine finely diced

1 mango 1/4 inch dice

2 C diced cabbage (1/2 large head)

1/2 cup finely diced cucumber

10 cherry tomatoes quartered

Vinaigrette

1 tsp. allspice berries ground

1/3 C. apple cider vinegar

3 T. extra virgin olive oil

a few grinds of pepper and sea salt to taste

Grind berries before pulsing vinaigrette. Then pulse the vinaigrette until all components are incorporated. Mix the vinaigrette well with the chopped salad and refrigerate at least an hour or up to a day for the flavors to meld. Enjoy the salad and chicken with a nice French Rose.

Take Time

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Sun, 01 Aug 2010 00:00:00 +0000

Did anyone else blink July first or second, and suddenly find themselves on July 31st going what happened? Undoubtedly, everyone has experienced that before in some form or another, and for whatever reason. For me, starting a new Monday-Friday 8-5 and having "normal people" hours, running a booth of baked goods at a local market, and sorting out (or trying in some form to sort out) our future plans, have contributed to that feeling.

Whatever the reason though, often it seems like we don't realize what has caused time to suddenly slip from our hands and jump to warp speed. It's only after the fact that we can stop and reflect about what produced this whirlwind of time commitments and constraints. Reflecting on this loss of time often creates a sometimes even longer list of things you didn't do or missed or wanted to get done but couldn't, etc., etc., all of which can create a very unpleasant view of how you're spending your time these days. But luckily, I think I've found a solution. Naturally, it takes the form of food.

Garlic Scape Polenta Topped with Mushroom and Garlic Scape Saute

Ingredients:
2 Tbsp Olive Oil, divided
2 Tbsp Butter, Divided
1 Cup Diced Garlic Scapes, Divided (from about 8 long scapes)
1/2 Cup Cornmeal
2-1/2 Cups Vegetable Broth
1/2 tsp salt
8 oz portobello mushrooms, sliced thick and halved
1/4 Large Onion Diced
Additional Salt and Pepper to taste

Directions:
1. In medium pan, melt 1 tbsp butter and heat 1 tbsp of the oil over medium high heat. Add 1/2 cup of the garlic scapes and saute over medium heat for 3-5 minutes until they begin to become tender. Set aside.
2. In stock pot, bring 1 quart vegetable broth to a boil over high heat. Very slowly, add cornmeal to broth, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Reduce heat to medium low and simmer stirring often.
3. After five minutes, add garlic scapes, 1/2 tsp salt and stir to distribute. Simmer for an additional 15-20 minutes, stirring often.
4. Meanwhile, in medium pan, melt remaining butter and oil over medium high heat. Add garlic scapes and saute 2-3 minutes. Add onions, mushrooms and continue to cook, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and continue to saute until onions are translucent and mushrooms browned.
5. To serve, spoon polenta onto plate and top with serving spoon full of mushroom and garlic scape saute. Take a breath, and enjoy.
This is really a simple dish. Sauteed mushrooms and garlic scapes atop a garlic scape polenta. Easy peasy. But the entire dish provides everything you need to stop and take time to reflect and enjoy the moment, stopping that vicious little cycle in its tracks. First of all, when making polenta, all you really have is time to think. Well, and stir of course. Don't be to hasty in cutting this step short, not only do you not not want lumpy polenta, but the methodical stirring can be an instant tranquilizer to calm any frazzled nerves, the first step needed to step back from your routine.

The second component of the dish may be a piece of cake for anyone spending time much time in the kitchen. Sauteing is typically quick, letting you get from point A to point B, but at the same time produces the wonderful aromas of garlic, butter and mushrooms coming together that urges you to take a deep breath.

Finally, the best part, eating the dish. Perhaps because of its simplicity, this is the perfect dish from beginning to end to help you step and breathe before you loose control of your time. With how hectic our life is getting and will continue to be for a little while, we may be eating this a lot! Daniel will be making friends with the farmer who brings scapes to the farmer's market fairly soon.

Enjoy!

Good Addiction

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 15:17:00 +0000

It seems strange that I am writing about a breakfast dish considering my irregularity of morning eating. But lately I have been eating a small breakfast as long as that consists of whole milk somewhere. When I was growing up my mom would whip up huge batches of peanut butter granola that I would eat more consistently than anything. The crunchy peanuts and oats and sunflower seeds made a perfect breakfast. If you are waiting for a peanut butter granola recipe please don't start scratching your head, but if you are looking for a simple and equally addictive granola recipe to my mom's you have come to the right place.

I have only made granola a couple times but the other morning I ran out of breakfasty foods and started contemplating and when that happens sometimes wild things occur. Well, maybe this recipe is not that off the wall, but it is something that can be produced year round thanks to the dried goods and makes one heck of a perfect breakfast food and snack with loads of protein and chocolaty goodness. Well, not chocolate exactly, but the crunchy bittersweet goodness of cocoa nibs. Oh, and did I mention the dried figs and currants that pack a syrupy sweetness, and pumpkin seeds and oats for a nutty kick of protein. Even if you aren't a full time breakfast eater like myself, this stuff is aptly addictive.

Addictive Granola

1 1/4 C old fashioned oats

2/3 C green shelled pumpkin seeds

4 T amber honey

1/4 C packed dark brown sugar

1/2 C dried black mission figs, cut in 1/4 inch dice

1/2 C currants
1/3 C cocoa nibs
3 T canola oil

salt to taste

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Mix honey, sugar, oats, oil, and seeds together well in a bowl and spread thinly on a non-stick baking sheet. Sprinkle some sea salt on top and bake for ten minutes and stir. Turn the pan and bake for ten more minutes. The granola should be crisp and browned. Bake a minute or so more if not as crisp as desired. When the mixture has cooled combine with the currants, cocoa nibs, and figs. Enjoy with whole milk, Greek yogurt, or by the handful.

I guess it would keep for about a week if it ever lasted that long...

Attack of the Killer Tomatoes

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 02:28:00 +0000

Don't worry. This isn't an ode to the mutant tomato cartoon of my childhood. I didn't even watch that to be honest. Instead, this is a small meditation on the beauty and delicious summer perfection that is a tomato in July. There are an infinite number of ways to enjoy the summer tomato, and undoubtedly ballads of devotion are a dime a dozen at this point. But oh well. We'll throw our ten cents in too.

Personally, as I start thinking of the different ways to enjoy its juicy perfection, I find myself echoing the memorable shrimp dialogue from Forest Gump, citing the infinite ways to enjoy it on a sandwich or a pizza and the ultimate tomato pie.Of course one of the best compliments to the tomato is bacon. Of course. The smoky salty taste pairs with the slight acidity, reminiscent of plain sliced tomatoes sprinkled with salt (a staple summer side for Sunday dinner). So, for out first killer tomato dish, we prepared a summer tomato and bacon focaccia. Simple and enjoyable as the best outdoor summer fair should be.

Summer Tomato & Bacon Focaccia
1 recipe pizza dough ready to cook
1 Large perfectly ripe tomato, sliced thin
4 Slices bacon, fried crisp and broken into small pieces
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp olive oil
sea salt & pepper

1. Place pizza stone in the oven and preheat oven to 475.
2. Toss pizza dough and roll thin. Allow to rise slightly.
3. Combine balsamic and olive oil and sprinkle on prepared dough. Top with sliced tomatoes and bacon.
4. Sprinkle tomatoes with sea salt and pepper. Place in oven for 10-15 minutes until golden.
5.Serve immediately

But, to really pay tribute to the tomato, we should take a moment to appreciate it in all it's summer forms. Naturally the heirloom tomatoes have their place, but, we should take a moment to enjoy the other versions of the fruit as well. Particularly, in its green form as well.

While I'm not a huge fan of fried foods, fried green tomatoes are the quintessential way to enjoy a green tomato. Until Daniel's pickled green tomatoes a little while ago and this recipe for a green tomato salad with pistachio relish in last month's Food & Wine, I didn't have the faintest idea there was another way to enjoy the tart version of summer's treat. Suffice it to say, the curious compliment of the sweet nutty vinegary dressing with the tart tomato made for a refreshing summer dish that was even better the second day. There was probably enough left for two meals...I managed to polish it off in one. Even if you're skeptical about green tomatoes, this one is well worth the try!!! You can find the recipe here. We didn't have the champagne vinegar, so I substituted a white wine vinegar with a teeny pinch of sugar. For an extra kick, I added a little bit of sumac to the dressing as well.

Whatever direction your summer market finds take you, hopefully you'll take advantage of developing a repertoire of your favorite summer dish too. Enjoy!!!

Necessity Meats

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 02:56:00 +0000

It seems that food eaten out of necessity during tough times continues on to steal the show during food renaissances later down the road. You know the items that I am thinking of like beef tongue that Americans are beginning to devour from taquerias like a pack full of wolves, pork belly that is leaping off menus at countless fine dining establishments in New York and L.A, and tripe at some of the more authentic Italian trattorias. It's no wonder we are devouring these cuts more and more these days other than the fact we find some kind of social link to our past in their consumption. Once you have taken the first bite you realize why you picked up that terrifying tongue that will match any beef roast and taco filling or pork belly that looks like a slab of meat reserved for the butchers wife from yesteryear. These are the items that fill your home with the smell of tradition and everything wholesome we associate with a meal around the table with family.

When you braise a pork belly in the fashion I did the results are truly mesmerizing. It punches our taste buds and mentality in the face like that perfect roast chicken demanding an answer to why we won't take a tiny bit of prep time to create these amazing centerpieces. Try serving one of your friends or family that chows down on a baby back ribs and pulled pork a slice of pork belly. Reserve the opportunity for someone who is too terrified to try something as "outlandish" as pork belly and let them try to deny they like it after you see them reaching for another bite. This dish in all its unctuous umami, sweet, and spicy glory will turn any cynic into a believer- except a full blown vegan (and for them you may have no hope). About the only thing better than this amazing food renaissance that has brought us back to the goodness of everything pork, and pork belly in this case, is the ease in which it is prepared.

Soy-Ginger Pork Belly

I cannot steal all the spotlight for this dish because I stole the idea from chef Daniel Boulud, that I respect very much, and altered it some to my tastes. His cookbook titled "Braise" is a masterpiece of inventive recipes from varying cultures that I highly recommend.

1- 3 pound boneless, skin-on pork belly

2 C beef broth

1/2 C apple cider vinegar

1/4 C dark soy sauce (high quality soy sauce is important here as the cheap stuff can be cloyingly salty)

1/2 C peeled finely chopped ginger

2 bunches green onions, one diced and other for garnish

3 T brown sugar

kosher salt

3 T hoisin sauce

1 T olive oil

Score the pork belly on the skin side just deep enough to reach the meat in a diamond pattern. Place pork belly in a plastic bowl the night before cooking along with soy sauce, ginger, vinegar, brown sugar, hoisin, and one bunch diced green onions to marinate.

Preheat oven to 275 degrees. When ready to cook, rake any onions and sauce from the belly and brown in a large cast iron skillet or dutch oven approximately 12 minutes. When thoroughly golden turn pork fat side up and add marinade back to cooking vessel, cover, and move to oven.

Cook about 4 hours or a little longer if not tender enough to your liking. Taste sauce to assure it is seasoned properly: it may need a touch more vinegar to cut the richness or saltiness. Cut in small diagonal chunks and sprinkle with garnish onions. Serve very warm with sauce poured over, a side of steamed snow peas, and steamed rice. Enjoy with a French Chardonnay.

The fat can be removed and cooked under the broiler to crisp and serve alongside the pork belly. I did this when I made the dish but forgot to photograph it.

Cheesy Compensation

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 02:33:00 +0000

One day, we'll go on one of these series of vacations and either (a) write a post in advance and accurately schedule it, or (b) not let the two weeks pass without looking at the blog. One day. Doubtful, but one can hope I suppose. But nonetheless, when returning from trips often we find ourselves in a quandry.

One the one hand, a couple weeks of indulgent eating usually requires a week of boring super light meals to compensate for the excess of the last week or so. If included in this vacation series is a week of visiting family and a spectacular array of favorite meals, trips to favorite restaurants and of course a few infamous donuts however, it's probably time to lighten things up a bit. On the other hand however, after sampling dishes from Philadelphia's finest and rediscovering some of the dishes responsible for our love of all things food however, who wants a bland-boring-tasteless low calorie dish. No one. Your still holding on to the adventures undertaken by your palate and the memories you've just made. Hence, instead of a boring-back-from-vacation salad, we offer you instead a plate of these two dishes--a combination of vegetables and protein packed legumes to help you feel satisfied and a nice way to reminisce about recent adventures.

In case you are unfamiliar with the green snail shaped vegetable, these are the elusive fiddlehead ferns. In the US, fiddlehead ferns are typically found throughout the north east and new england states and harvested in early spring. How we managed to stumble across an abundance of these beauties in July I'm not entirely sure, but we wont complain! The fronds supposedly have a number of health benefits, including twice as much antioxidant power as blueberries. Be warned however, when undercooked they can not only be exceptionally bitter, but can also cause stomach troubles. Taste wise, they have a texture similar to asparagus, and while some describe the taste as similar too, we actually found the taste to be somewhat earthier. Most sources recommend blanching them in boiling water for two minutes twice if possible, but at least once. Once you've blanched them, quickly sauté with a little fat or oil, and season appropriately. Naturally, when trying to eat healthier or lighter we decide to use bacon for the oil or fat component and flavor. Maybe it all evens out in the end, but even if not the bacon provides a delicious depth of flavor somewhat reminiscent of southern style green beans and bacon that taste best only from a grandmothers table.

Sautéd Fiddlehead Ferns

1/2 lb Fiddlead ferns, washed, long woody stems and dark spots removed.

2 Pieces of thick cut bacon

Salt & Pepper to Taste

Sufficient Water and Ice Water for Blanching

1. Clean fiddlehead ferns while bringing a large pot of water boil. Prepare ice bath.

2. Once water is boiling, place fiddlehead ferns in water and return to a boil. Allow to cook for two minutes.Quickly drain and place ferns in ice bath to stop cooking.

3. Change water and bring a second pot of water to a boil. Prepare second ice bath. Repeat step2.

4. Once ferns are in second ice bath, fry bacon in heavy frying pan until crisp. Remove bacon and approx 1/3 of bacon grease and reserve and allow pan to cool slightly. Place ferns in warm grease and sauté over high heat until brown spots begin to appear. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Our other tastier dinner choice was a cheesy bacon and lentil dish reminiscent of mac & cheese. I know, you see bacon and mac & cheese and lighter options are not high up there on you initial thoughts. But, we consider this a better alternative. Instead of filling up on pasta, you get to feel up on the protein from the lentils with the smoky rewarding flavors of a bacon mac & cheese. For us, this dish reminded us vaguely of the truffled mac & cheese we devoured from Varga while in Philly.

Faux Mac & Cheese
1/2 Cup Split Orange Lentils, picked over and rinsed
3/4 Cup Water
2 Pieces of Crisped Bacon and approx 1 Tbsp of reserved bacon grease
1/2 Small Shallot, Minced
1 Garlic Clove
1/4 Onion Chopped
1/4 Cup Sharp Italian Cheese (i.e. Pecorino)
Salt & Pepper to Taste
1. In small saucepan, bring water to boil over medium high heat. Add lentils and bring to a boil. Cook for two minutes and reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer 15-20 minutes until tender.
2. Meanwhile, in skillet, sauté garlic, onion, and shallot in bacon grease until tender.
3. Once lentils are tender, quickly add to skillet with garlic and onions and gently stir over low heat to combine. Add bacon, cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm.

No matter where your summer adventures may have taken you or may take you soon, consider keeping the adventures going when you return to your home kitchen! Enjoy!

Taste of the Nation

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 06:57:00 +0000

As we walked out of Distrito the first day of our visit to Philadelphia, we crossed paths with numerous homeless people begging for change or asking us to walk into McDonalds to buy them a burger. Maybe some of you have experienced this, but walking home, stomach full, wallet empty, I can honestly say I felt slightly guilty to have spent a significant amount of money on an unbelievable meal, when there are so many people hungry in our country today. After running into two, we were out of anything to offer. We can make ourselves feel better about seeing this everyday by reasoning that we will actively do some "good" in our food adventures. Despite our budget, we try to buy local whenever possible. We rarely eat meat, and typically grass fed or fair farmed or free range alternatives. But according to Share Our Strength's sources, nearly 17 million children go hungry each year in the US. Through event's like Taste of the Nation, Share our Strength hopes to end childhood hunger in the US by 2015.

Attending taste of the nations was like a food lover's dream come true. Where else can you sample foie gras stuffed cherries, popcorn cupcakes, beef tartare, and truffled mac and cheese all at one time? Where else can you sample drinks from some of the most creative mixologists under a single roof? Where else can you walk away having sampled all of this knowing that the money you spent is going to help fight child hunger? If you have an answer that isn't the Taste of the Nation event put on by Share our Strength, please let me know. I'll be there next! For obvious reasons, I'll only touch on some of the dishes or restaurants that were memorable, but keep in mind that I speak for both of us when I say everything fell somewhere along the tasty to sublime spectrum.

Our first favorite dish of the evening came from Fish. We tasted a tuna sashimi on a bacon waffle, topped with a little whole grain mustard that was not only tasty, but after talking with the staff there, they apparently have a nice reasonable tasting menu to offer guests on Sundays (second set, right column, middle row). For something a little more fun Varga Bar offered the truffled mac and cheese I mentioned that is made with gruyere, fontina, and marscapone cheese with black truffles and topped with bacon (first set, top left corner). This was slightly more filling than the array of grape tomato and pineapple gazpachos offered (although they were quite tasty in their own right), and packed a ton of flavor. From Sole Food, located in the Lowes Hotel, we sampled a lightly fried squash blossom stuffed with all kinds of deliciousness including ricotta, lima beans, and anchovies (first set, top middle). I wish I could remember everything else that was in it, because the range of flavors and textures that danced across the palate was quite delicious. Everyone else apparently felt the same way, as when we got to their booth, there were only four left!

Daniel's favorites included a savory shortbread topped with apricot jam and duck prosciutto from Funky Lil' Kitchen (last set below, bottom right corner). We managed to devour one of these each rather quickly, and will hopefully be recreating them in the very near future. From Lacroix, we tasted a foie gras stuffed cherry, topped with a smoked balsamic and sitting on a bed of toasted pine nuts (second set, middle row, right column), a perfectly balanced blend of flavors and textures. I can't help but mention that throughout the event, we enjoyed various cocktails as well, the most inventive being the beet flavored drink (first set, top right corner).

If you take a look at the ticket costs and initially gasp, factor in the ability to sample amazing cocktails from some of the best mixologists in your area as well. Not to mention that tor dessert, we had our choice of a few unique cupcakes from Mugshots Coffee House & Cafe including a popcorn and margarita cupcake (last set below, top right corner and bottom left corner), as well as artisan gelato from Capogiro, and a delicious yogurt panna cotta from Eric Ripert's 10 Arts Bistro & Lounge (third set, middle row, left column).

And as if that wasn't enough to get you to go to your next event, you never know who you'll run into! We planned to meet up with Emily Malloy of Cleanliness is Next to Godliness, and after some back and forth phone and texting tag, finally met up about halfway through the event! If you've never read Emily's blog, not only should you do so (and soon!), but it's always neat to see how someone's bright personality shines through in their blog. Emily was as friendly and awesome in person as she is in her blog, AND if it hadn't been for her prompting, we would have missed the squash blossoms at Sole Food! And as if that wasn't a cool enough person to meet, guess who else we ran into?

Aaron McCargo Jr. who won The Next Food Network Star in 2008 and who currently hosts Big Daddy's House on the Food Network! We felt kind of silly asking to take a picture with him, but he was really nice and really cool.

So now. What more reason do you need? You. You should ~~consider clicking~~ click over to the Taste of the Nation's website and see if there's an event near you. If so, GO!!!!! Even if you've already missed the event closest, consider looking at all of the other ways to contribute your time and your taste buds to this great cause. We will not only be attending the Great American Dineout (although we'll cross our fingers that more restaurants in our area get involved), but I'm also going to look into a bake sale sometime soon. See what works for you!

Philadelphia- Part 1

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 02:01:00 +0000

Where should I begin explaining about our food exploits in Philadelphia. You'll have to be a bit gentle when critiquing our pictures for this post. We are definitely not the seasoned veterans that many of you are when it comes to "in-restaurant" photography. We are still infants in this field, but you have to crawl before you can walk, and Philly is truly a city for walking.

Our food odyssey begins with an overnight rendezvous at Dawn's grandparents who warmly greeted us with chocolate cake despite our arrival at midnight and filled us with a blueberry crumble cake and fresh cantaloupe in the morning. We toured their thriving box garden of squash, hanging tomatoes, cabbages, onions, and a rainbow of decorative flowers. Every time we visit the food is delicious and the company is comforting and occasionally competitive when the Wii bowling gets going.

Around three on Saturday we reached Alexander Inn, which served as a nice cool respite from the miles of walking that also served as penance for the indulgent eating. The Alexander Inn is a nice boutique hotel bordering Antique Row and convenient to Market Street and the Rittenhouse square area. For the most part there is a big city ambiance of wafting kitchen scents, what can only be described as 'back alley odor, all the specialty shops that cooks dream of, and enough new and old standby restaurants to keep anyone busy.

Around 5:30, we walked the two and a half miles from our hotel to the University District to partake in Jose Garces' Mexico City tapas style restaurant, Distrito. From the moment I walked in, I couldn't stop thinking that the decor reminded me of a a mixture of Nacho Libre and Alice in Wonderland. The whimsical hot pinks, the luchadore wall, the gold specked tables, and the lime green taxi car tables provided an oddly outstanding backdrop for his interpretation of Mexican and Spanish cuisine. First, Dawn ordered the fresh watermelon margarita (12), and I ordered a glass of Tecate (2) to accompany the chips and Mexicana salsa (5). The Los Hongos Hurache (12) was by far the best item we had all night. From the shaved truffle specks and truffle oil, the dish was mushroom heaven with a hint of microgreen herbage.

Dish two was the lengua tacos (7) that I'm always a fan of and was glad to see on the menu. These were lusciously rich with a hint of radish, just enough tang from the pepper sauce, and a nice corn tortilla to surround it.

Next was the Hamachi taco (14) which was a pillar of whitefish, coated with panko and fried, topped with a creamy chipotle sauce and surrounded by a flour tortilla. Although it could have used a touch less breading and a touch more sauce, we happily devoured the set of three mini tacos.

Dish four was an Amarillo mole of rabbit (10) that had a very nice presentation. The tiny staub cast iron casserole presentation was perfect with the rabbit fanned out and the sauce puddle in a vibrant cheddar orange hue. Unfortunately the habanero sauce needed more basics such as salt, pepper, and a hint more body.

Garces' take on the black bean quesadilla (6) was an empanada like version that won both of us over with the presentation and its onslaught of flavor. Surrounded by a terra cotta red sauce and drizzled with a creamy sauce that married well with the turtle beans, it was an awesome dish.

Dessert was truly an homage to Spanish cuisine in the shape of churros (7), or starfish as my dad refers to them because of their shape. They were crisp, chewy, and mesmerizing. The effect was like sinking your teeth into the perfect pomme frites, fries, or chips, yet these churros included a lovely thick cajeta sauce, a spicy chocolate sauce, and of course a perfect scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Overall the whacky themed restaurant prepares picturesque food, that was for the most part an exciting trip for the palette, ample service although at times too much, and great drinks and atmosphere. It is well worth a try if you are in the area.

After a rewarding breakfast provided by the hotel, we spent the morning out and about visiting the historic sights of Philadelphia. For lunch, we stopped at a little hole in the wall in Chinatown called Chung King. We rarely go on a trip without eating somewhere we stumble upon and this is the restaurant. Unfortunately the pictures inside didn't turn out at all, but as we sat down and looked over the menu, we were surprised at the astounding selection of delicacies they offered. Generally I am more adventurous when it comes to ordering strange dishes at restaurants, but Dawn went above and beyond when I ordered the twice cooked pork, and selected spicy pig ears. The waiter looked at her oddly and asked if she liked pig ears, and she responded, "we'll see," after which he brought us a complimentary pot of green tea. Although the pig ears had a unique flavor and were served over a delicious chili broth, they were served cold and were texturally a little much for her to handle. The more I ate them, the less the texture seemed to bother me. The double cooked pork I ordered consisted of thin slices of pork belly along with a rich sauce produced by the fat in the pork, onions and currants. For a meal where you're thinking about your wallet and feeling a little adventurous, this was a nice place to stop for around $20.

After more sightseeing and walking, we were ready for our next culinary adventure and and set off for Pietros Coal Oven Pizzeria. There are a couple more locations around Philadelphia and in New Jersey, so it is not a singular pizza joint, but one that produces a mean pie. We sat down inside instead of on the patio because moments before we arrived, Dawn suggested we stop by Max Brenner's chocolate shop. It reminded me of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory when just inside the door you are welcomed by a gust of cool air perfumed by chocolate ecstasy. Inside the doors we were given a candied chocolate coated pecan that told me this pit stop was a good idea. After perusing for awhile we decided to pick up a Textures box of eighteen truffles (24), a single giant truffle (3) and a small bag of toasted pistachio and coconut chocolate balls (4). Everything was fantastic and a worthwhile stop in Philadelphia. We missed the restaurant the store was attached to this trip, but maybe next time!

Back to to the pizza. The decor inside Pietro's was homey and inviting with tables adorned in green and jugs of herb infused olive oil. After we were seated the warm complimentary foccacia rolls were simply delicious. Dawn ordered a "small" salad for us to split before the pizza arrived, and their definition of small is certainly relative. The arugula salad with sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino with a honey olive oil vinaigrette was easily enough for three. But, we were starving and finished it before moving on to the pizza. The pizza we ordered was a piccante pizza consisting of spicy ham, aged provolone, crushed red hot peppers, and Italian tomatoes for a change of pace from what we normally order. The crust was crisp and lightly charred in spots with a really nice crumb. The spiciness of the ham went well with the lightly fruity dry edge of the sangiovese.

Monday, we perused every nook and cranny of Reading Terminal market. Iovine's produce does make me quite envious, but glad I had a chance to stop in. While there we purchased some dry ingredients that would survive the trek home, but were sad to pass up the fresh morels. We did manage to score some dried morels, dried black mission figs, and dried currants though. So many meat and seafood purveyors under one roof are truly astounding. We stopped by the spice rack and picked up some smoked peppercorns, and Dawn eagerly chose some new extracts to try.

But who can visit Philadelphia without sampling the cheese-steak. My choice was as close as I could get to sampling both the famous roast pork sandwich and the famous cheese-steak at the same time. I choose an Italian cheese-steak with roasted peppers, broccoli rabe, and sharp provolone. It was messy goodness in a bun.

All the amazing food and drinks we enjoyed in Philly can't compare to the extraordinary fare and drinks we enjoyed at Taste of that Nations though, held at the Loews Hotel. Sorry for the lengthy description of our endeavors so far, but while we finish sorting through pictures you'll have to wait a few days for the big event! Stay tuned for more about the event, including a meet up with Emily Malloy of Cleanliness is Next to Godliness, and even a surprise run in with a Food Network star!

When Life Gives You Onions...

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 13:49:00 +0000

When life gives you onions, don't cry. You can always make jam! Granted, you may cry a little in the process, but it will be worth it in the end. Last year I made my first batch of jam with the last of the fresh summer tomatoes. Within a couple weeks we had devoured it and the summer farmer's markets were well over. Since then, I've been wanting to expand my jam repertoire. Thanks to Daniel's canning adventures last week and the extra mason jars we had lying around, I quickly felt the urge to jam.

Like many delights from the kitchen, making jam is not nearly as daunting a task as you may think. Just keep stirring! This onion jam recipe yields a buttery onion spread that offered a burst of sweetness and delectable onion flavor that will make even a piece of dry toast dance across your palate.I used vidalia onions for this recipe because they are sweeter and have a higher water content. More natural juice means you don't need to add liquid and more onion flavor.

Onion Jam

Although there are plenty of alternatives you could throw in our substitute, for this batch I wanted a strictly aromatic onion jam with a nice caramel color and a burst of sweet onion flavor.

3 lbs Vidalia Onions, halved and quartered
1/4 Cup Olive Oil
1/2 tbsp salt
1/2 Cup Brown Sugar
2/3 Cup Sugar
2 tbsp vinegar

1. Place oil and onions in medium stock pot. Season with salt and stir onion quarters to coat with oil. Place over medium heat and cover with tight fitting lid. Allow onions to cook 20-30 minutes until tender, checking s little as possible.
2. Add both sugars and vinegar. Stir to dissolve and coat onions evenly.
3. With medium heat, using a wooden spoon stir occasionally at first, and more often as it gets closer to being done. As you stir, use the spoon to begin squashing onions. Continue cooking and stirring until you reach desired consistency.
4. Place in glass jars, allow to cool, and seal.
5. Enjoy!

There are a plethora of options for you to choose from as you decide where to use your delicious homemade goodies. I already have plans to use it on a bacon tomato foccacia and am contemplating a savory thumbprint cookie. But, since we weren't going to be able to try them until this morning, I choose to use them in our breakfast fare atop some warm rosemary scented scones. Whatever you choose to use it on, you and whoever you choose to share it with will be delighted.

Rosemary Scented Scones

The rosemary in these provides a subtle herbaceous note that pairs beautifully with a slightly sweetened scone on its own, and becomes a delectable breakfast treat with the extra sweetness and onion goodness from your own onion jam

1 Cup All Purpose Flour
1 Cup Whole Wheat Flour
2 Tsp Baking Powder
1/4 Cup Sugar
1 Tsp Dried Rosemary Powder
4 Tbsp Butter
1 Egg
1/2 Cup Half & Half plus additional for brushing
Himalayan Pink Sea Salt for Sprinkling

1. Preheat oven to 425. Line baking sheet with baking mat. Mix flours, baking powder, sugar, and rosemary in bowl to combine. Cut in butter until mixture resembles crumbs.
2. In a separate cup, mix egg and half & half. Once combined well pour over dry ingredients and stir until mixture just comes together.
3. Remove mixture from bowl (there may be some dry ingredients left behind, don't worry), and pat into a circle on baking sheet. Cut circle into 4 or 8 wedges depending if you want small or larger scones.
4. Separate across baking sheet and brush with half & half. Sprinkle with pink salt and place in oven.
5. Cook 10-15 minutes until golden brown.

Enjoy!

A Happy Marriage of Flavors

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 13:47:00 +0000

Relaxing weekends are such an adventurous cook's dream. The time passes and you begin churning thoughts, taking action, and then if you are in the process of pickling---wait, wait, wait. Like a fine piece of braised meat, waiting is of the essence and oftentimes pays you back with an incredibly delicious and economical snack.

When I thought of pickling certain items over the weekend (grapes, radishes, carrots, and green tomatoes), my taste buds wandered to pots of simmered mustard greens drenched in pepper vinegar. You know, the kind sitting on the table of some barbecue joints and roadside stands and country kitchens. Bottled in old liquor bottles or soy sauce bottles with conducive drip caps already provided to contain dozens of varieties of peppers, depending on what is at hand. Why is this concoction so prevalent at the aforementioned institutions you might ask? The answer is simple---at least in my estimation---fried food.

That tang of vinegar and spice is mystifying when combined with the warm crunch of fried food. Fried chicken with pepper vinegar, fish-n-chips with malt vinegar, even the acidic spritz of lemon juice on fish straight out of the fryer. The concoctions are endless and paramount to the iconic dishes we cherish.

We snacked on a handful of the pickled radishes after I initially pickled them over the Memorial day break, but the fish-n-chips certainly thanked us for the vinegary kick in the salad from the carrots and green tomatoes. Who says you can't make a mean fish-n-chips with the American sustainable fish that so many foodies used to snear at. If you guessed the substitute for the traditional cod or haddock was catfish, you would be correct.

Catfish and fried spuds will certainly surprise when they are shown some respect and attention. The sesame oil gives these fish a piquant earthiness, and double frying the chips will put a smile on your face. This dinner deserves a nice cold ale to accompany it, but you certainly wouldn't be out of place to drink a chilled sauvignon blanc. Either way, it is a weekend pleaser for just two, or a crowd.

Kickin' Fish-N-Chips
You will find it hard not to dig right in to these morsels of delight, but you have to whip up some tartar sauce to go with them first. Or, if Dawn won't give you her tartar sauce recipe, English mustard does the trick as well.

1 lb Catfish Fillets

2 Lbs Russet Potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/8ths

6 oz lager or other pale beer

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1-1/2 tsp Old Bay Seasoning

1 Tsp Sesame Oil

5 Grinds Black Pepper

1 tsp kosher salt

Canola Oil for frying

1. Whisk flour and dry ingredients to remove clumps. Combine sesame oil and lager.

2. Whisk until smooth consistency, similar to cake batter. Add a bit more flour or beer if necessary and adjust salt and pepper to taste. Batter will have a bit of a nutty flavor from the sesame oil.
3. Heat oil to 325 degrees and add chips in batches, cooking 5 minutes then draining.
4. Heat oil to 350 degrees and fry chips a second time for 5 minutes in batches until golden, wait a few seconds so they don't burn your tongue, I know it's hard.
5. Dip catfish in batter and drop gently into the grease frying in batches 6 to 8 minutes. Turn several times while cooking to achieve a nice amber brown hue.

Dilled Carrot Pickles (Adapted from "The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern")
If you think about it carrots have the perfect texture for pickling just enough crunch to keep them crisp and mesmerizing in just about an hour.

2 medium carrots peeled and sliced into 1/8 inch rings
6 sprigs dill
1 tsp. sugar
8 whole black peppercorns
1 small shallot thinly diced
1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 C white vinegar
1/2 C apple cider vinegar

1. Wash out two pint jars extremely well with hot water.
2. Fill two pint jars with equal amounts carrots and shallot.
3. Bring the rest of the ingredients to a simmer in a small pot.
4. Pour the liquid over the vegetables until completely submerged and cover loosely until they cool at which point they can be transferred to the fridge for about 3 weeks. I doubt they will last that long once you try them.

Spiked Green Tomatoes
These are so unique with the bite the jalapeno imparts to the tomatoes. These would be an awesome accompaniment to tacos or to make a mean version of salsa verde.

2 medium green tomatoes, cored and cut into half moons
1 jalapeno thinly sliced
1/2 yellow onion thinly sliced
1 C white vinegar
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. sugar

1. Wash out two pint jars extremely well with hot water.
2. Fill jars with equal amounts tomato, onion and jalapeno.
3. Bring the rest of the ingredients to a simmer in a small pot.
4. Pour the liquid over the vegetables until completely submerged and cover loosely until they cool at which point they can be transferred to the fridge for about 3 weeks.

Rosemary Pickled Grapes (Adapted from "The Lee Bros. Simple Fresh Southern")
What a cocktail hour treat or something to nibble on when you are outside watching the grill. These are the most intriguing snack your friends have seen in a while.

1- 1/2 # green grapes or a mixture of varieties
1 C white vinegar
1 C apple cider vinegar
2 tsp. sugar
2 sprigs rosemary, only the leaves
5 grinds black pepper
3 garlic cloves crushed

1. Wash out two pint jars extremely well with hot water.
2. Fill jars with equal amounts of grapes.
3. Bring the rest of the ingredients to a simmer in a small pot.
4. Pour the liquid over the fruit until completely submerged and cover loosely until they cool at which point they can be transferred to the fridge for about 3 weeks. Once you notice how weird it seems that these remind you of olives yet in a fruity sense you will be back for more.

Fennel French Radish Pickles
If you are as lucky as me to find a couple bunches of beautiful candy white tipped French radishes at the farmers market you should consider making these. It has already made a convert out of several non-radish fans I know.

1 # french white tip radishes, washed and sliced 1/4"
1 C white vinegar
1 tsp. ground fennel
1 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. salt
10 whole black peppercorns

1. Wash out a pint jar extremely well with hot water.
2. Fill it with radish slices.
3. Bring the rest of the ingredients to a simmer in a small pot.
4. Pour the liquid over the radishes until completely submerged and cover loosely until they cool at which point the can with canning lid can be transferred to the fridge for about 3 weeks.

*All of these are quick pickles, meaning the cans are not sealed. But if you desire to seal them you can bring a large pot of water to a boil with the cans full of pickles and brine already in the pot. In about five minutes you will hear a pop from the top of the can meaning it is sealed. Make sure the cans do not sit on the bottom of the pot- they make a crab like device to prevent this- but either way happy pickling.

A Different Approach

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Mon, 31 May 2010 16:04:00 +0000

It's been very warm outside the last few days, and due to some prior overindulgent eating, salad sounded like the appropriate replacement. I don't like giving up rich food even in a salad, but still this salad screams fresh vibrant colors and tastes. The salad and side are meatless, yet satisfying with a variety of textures that always makes the palate jump up and down for joy.

It was only last year that I first ate arugula. I know, I know--how could I have made it so long without that natural peppery goodness? The alchemic interaction of sweet cucumber vinaigrette along with the peppery arugula and crunchy carrot strings. Oh and I forgot to add, the rich creaminess of the poached egg resting there rounds out the whole bit.

I have also been thinking about sweet potatoes and weird or unorthodox uses for them lately. Along with the joy brought by going home in July come thoughts of foods I love the most. Hush puppies are usually beaming crispy salty balls of goodness. The onion chunks studded beneath the surface punctuate the orbs, except I was wondering what would happen if you added sweet potato. Donald Link has some fascinating recipes in his "Real Cajun" cookbook, and I used a skeleton of his "Cast-Iron Hush Puppies" recipe to form my Honey Sweet Potato Hush puppies loaded with herbs giving them flashy colors as invigorating as the taste.

Sunny Carrot Arugula Salad

1 carrot, julienned

2 eggs, poached

2 C arugula

2 C baby spinach

Dressing:

1 cucumber peeled and deseeded

1/2 tsp dijon mustard

1 tsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp sea salt

3 grinds black pepper

Heat 1 quart canola oil in a heavy bottom skillet until it reaches 325 degrees. Drop a handful of julienned carrot into the oil and cook for about a minute, stirring so that it does not tangle into a ball. Remove when the carrot becomes crisp and just golden.

Place cucumber, mustard, oil, salt, and pepper in a food processor and pulse until it is a smooth puree. Pour into a fine tipped squirt bottle.

Arrange arugula and spinach in bowls gently placing poached eggs on top and then carrot strings. Drizzle a few stripes of cucumber vinaigrette on top and enjoy.

Honey Sweet Potato Hush puppies

9 green onions

1 jalapeno, deseeded

1/4 C fresh parsley

1/4 C fresh thyme

1 small sweet potato peeled and grated

1 1/4 C yellow cornmeal

1/2 C all-purpose flour

2 T light amber honey

2 1/2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp salt

1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

1/2 C half and half or buttermilk

1 egg

Use oil that is still hot from frying the carrot strings, just heat up to 350 degrees.

Combine first five ingredients and egg in food processor and pulse until ingredients are a bright shamrock green. Stir dry ingredients together in a large bowl and then incorporate green ingredients, adding honey and sweet potato.

Drop large metal tablespoonfuls of mix in hot oil and cook about 3 minutes and flip cooking about 3 more minutes on the other side. Hush puppies should be milk chocolate brown and vibrant green with cheddar yellow specks inside. Enjoy while still warm, alongside salad.

Summer Comfort Food

noreply@blogger.com (Cocina Savant) — Thu, 27 May 2010 00:48:00 +0000

Hopefully none of you have this problem, but despite our adoration for the color and flavor that comes with using fresh herbs, we are unable to grow them ourselves for the most part. Mainly because I have black thumb. Plants come into my possession, and their life expectancy declines by 80-90%. Within a few days, they're typically wilted and decorated with increasing brown, black, or yellow tones. I've grown accustomed to this occurrence, so when after two weeks of planting this little guy, I open the door to this, you can imagine my excitement!

But what is it, you ask? On top of my black thumb plaguing our herb ambitions, we also have a very limited space that gets enough sunlight in our small yard. So, in a similar vain to our more adventurous culinary pursuits and purchase, we naturally decide to be adventurous in the herbs chosen to ~~die~~ grow. Who wants to use their tiny 1 x 1 space of sunlight for the parsley or basil available in the store? Nope, what you see pictured is a cutting celery plant, a leafy refreshing herb that provides all the taste of celery in its fresh form, but without the strings! I imagined this particular herb would do wonders to compliment some form of a seafood dish, so out of my competing desires to use it in shrimp & grits or a lobster mac & cheese emerges this summer comfort food.

Lobster Grits & Cheese (serves 2-3)
2 Cups Seafood Stock
1/2 Cup Stone Ground Grits*
3 Tbsp Crumbled Pecorino**
4 oz Langostine Tails
1/2 Tbsp Butter
1 Clove Garlic
Salt & Pepper to Taste
1 Tbsp Chopped Cutting Celery
*Stone ground grits are much coarser than conventional grits bought in the store, and take significantly longer to cook. Be sure to adapt package instructions if using another type.
**A younger pecorino works best with the fresh tangy taste of the sheeps milk. Preferably one that's less salty, not a romano.
1. Bring 2 Cups Seafood Stock to a boil. Stir in grits and reduce to a simmer over medium low heat. Partially cover and stir occasionally to prevent sticking on the bottom and clumping.Allow to simmer 30-40 minutes until all of the liquid is absorbed and grits are creamy in texture.
2. Meanwhile, melt butter in small nonstick skillet. Saute garlic and langostine tails. Set aside until grits finish cooking.
3. Once most of the liquid has been absorbed and the grits are creamy in texture, add cheese and sauteed langostine tails. Stir and remove from heat.
4. Stir in chopped celery. Season with salt an pepper to taste (be sure to be careful and taste as the cheese and stock will alter the saltiness of the dish).

Typically coarser grits are cooked using milk, cream, or lots of butter to really make the creamy texture of the dish shine and really make the dish a warming comfort food. To lighten it up a bit without sacrificing the richer taste, I used a nice seafood stock to improve the flavor profile of the dish. Paired with a nice summer salad, the rich creamy texture of the grits, tangy refreshing taste of the cheese, and the salty seafood flavor of the dish made a simple and tasty summer dinner.

Enjoy!

Just in case you don't believe me about the black thumb, witness the thai basil plant we gleefully purchased at the same time. If you have any gardening tips you'd like to send our way, feel free!

RIP