CollectingFineJewels

Fabulous ART DECO monochrome jewelry

2013-06-02T20:18:00.001+01:00

Every year in June London pays a discreet tribute to all the antique collectors that spend the year flying from Paris to Basle, and from Miami to Vegas and New York. In the most civilised and typical english way, June in London has started with the first days of good weather in months, the setting up of the Lapada Fair in Berkeley Square, the closing of guests lists for private viewings at Masterpiece and Christie's King Street annual Magnificent Jewels sale.

Art Deco earrings set in platinum with diamonds, onix and natural pearls

There are a number of reasons why this sale is my favourite in London. It takes place in the grand stucco house that Christie's has in King Street, which somehow feels the right place to acquire works of art; they host a Sunday brunch to privately show the collection, but the most important reason is the selection of the pieces and the atmosphere during the auction. There are always exceptional pieces, like in most of similar auctions, but it is the one auction where I always find something very rare and truly collectable. This pair of earrings are a great example: unsigned fabulous Art Deco design, set in platinum with diamonds, onix and natural pearls. A unique piece.

Art Deco Pendant set in platinum with Diamonds, Onix, seed pearls and natural pearl

And imagine that someone loves the Art Deco period and dreams of a jewellery collection set with natural pearls in a black and white monochrome theme, just to make it rarer. These are two examples of pieces that have been sold by Christie's at King Street during the past two editions. It even seems easy to gather a three piece collection of Art Deco natural pearl extraordinary designs...

CARTIER, Art Deco Natural Pearl and diamonds brooch

The legacy of Pierre STERLE

2013-05-13T07:00:00.000+01:00

Sterle, 1970's diamond brooch

The brooch above is probably one of the last pieces made by Pierre Sterle during the 1970's (at least signed with his name and not by Chaumet). It will be auctioned by Sotheby's Geneva on may 14th.

Pierre Sterle was a very special jeweller. Not an artist but a socialite, he earned his well deserved reputation due to his good taste, selecting beautiful and well rounded designs and insisting on having them executed only with the finest stones.

Why are BVLGARI necklaces on a league of their own?

2013-05-12T22:26:00.001+01:00

One goes to Cartier is search of perfection, to Harry Winston to source unique stones, to Van Cleef and Arpels or Tiffany's for avant garde designs and to Bvlgari for the coloured stone necklaces. They are a standalone category in jewellery, in fact if anyone is looking for a theme to start a new collection, now is the perfect time, with a selection of thirteen magnificent examples coming up for sale at Sotheby's Geneva on May 14th.

BVLGARI, Emerald necklace 1970

No other jeweller understands the use of colour better and combines precious stones with pearls or semi precious ones in a more baroque and extravagant way.

BVLGARI, multigem necklace 1965

Bvlgari's designs for necklaces achieve such a degree of artistic perfection that somehow never convey the feeling that they might be too much. As large, important and busy pieces as they come, they never fail to enhance the women that gets to wear them.

BVLGARI, necklace 1980's

One spanish master jeweller once explained to me that the art of combining coloured stones was a very particular science, since stones can bring out the light in each other or may absorb the shine and make the piece look domed. For example, rubies and sapphires should not be next to each other because they both will look darker, however an emerald will bring up clarity to both them.
Mastering this technique and the most adventurous desire to surprise has earned Bvlgari the titke of the ultimate master necklace maker!.

BVLGARI, Turquoise necklace 1970's

BVLGARI, Natural pearl necklace

BVLGARI, Gina Lollobrigida necklace/tiara/bracelet combination

The house of Bvlgari was created in Rome in 1905 but it did not thrive until the 1960's and it has made an imprint in the history of jewellery by the creation of a distinctive and unique style. Bvlgari source of inspiration is the Renaissance and the use of colour. Instead of using diamonds as the most important part of the piece, Bvlgari always makes a coloured stone the centre of its creations.

VERDURA shines at Christie's New York

2013-04-14T21:49:00.002+01:00

"Fulco came into Chanel's life at the end of her Grand Duke Dimitri period. Chanel and Fulco were responding to that Russian feeling for extravagance, of barbaric color and enormous scale, stones being thrown around like nothing. Never, never at Boivin or at Cartier, who were all about serious diamonds and platinum, would you ever have seen tourmalines next to diamonds, or settings of gold."

Harper's Bazaar and Vogue editor, Babs Simpson (also Verdura's intimate friend and client)

Enamel, Pearls and Diamond Brooch by Verdura

Multi Gem Maltese cross by Verdura

Pink Tourmaline Ray Brooch by Verdura

Yellow Sapphire Bracelet by Verdura

Next Tuesday's Magnificent Jewels auction at Christie's New York is full of impressive jewels and gemstones, including the Princie Diamond. Hoewever, there is also a small selection of eight Verdura pieces with some truly unique examples of the genius of his designs that should not go unnoticed.

The Princie DIAMOND

2013-04-14T19:24:00.002+01:00

It is a truth universally acknowledged that the purest diamonds in the world come from the Golconda region in India. Diamonds were the source of unparalleled wealth for more than two thousand years until the mines were exhausted.

The Princie diamond is the largest pink diamond ever been sold at public auction. It was sold by Sotheby's in 1960 to Van Cleef and Arpels. The stone was sold directly by the Nizam of Hydebarad, the ruling dynasty of the central estate in India where the Golconda mines are located. Diamonds from this region are considered the purest ones ever found and are denominated type Lla, as a special distinction. After acquiring the stone, Pierre Arpels introduced it at a party in Paris in honour of the Prince of Baroda, after whom the diamond was named afterwards. The Prince mother was Sita Devi, a glamorous and wealthy Maharani that was nicknamed the Wallis Simpson of India due to her famous jewellery collection. Amongst other famous stones, she also had the Star of the South Diamond.

The Princie diamond has more than 300 years of history and it has remained untouched. It also displays a rare orange fluorescence when looked under ultra violet light that is unique to diamonds that come from the Golconda region. It will be auctioned by Christie's NY on April 16th.

UPCOMING AUCTION: The BVLGARI collection of Gina Lollobrigida

2013-04-04T15:04:00.000+01:00

Over the past couple of years there has been an unprecedented number of magnificent jewelry collections that have been auctioned. Many of them belonging to Hollywood stars or socialites, from Liz Taylor to Mrs Safra or Mrs Astor. The pieces were displays of great wealth and the portrait of their owner's personal taste. A unique legacy that covers the personal history from family or business to lovers...

The 1940's and 1950's were decades of opulence as well as Hollywood's golden years, specially in America. Big screen divas reigned and they collected everything the public longed for. Their jewellery collections generally surpassed imagination and it was not uncommon for big stars to prefer to use their own authentic pieces in films than costume ones. The stars and the master jewellers would even compete...

The 2010's will be famous as the years when those collections are being dismantled. The reason being their owners donating the proceeds to Charity or the Estate administrators dividing the late celebrity belongings amongst the heirs. The fact is that since those days, there has not been a trend or fashion to collect jewellery of such quality and quantity.

Sotheby's Geneva will be auctioning the famous Bvlgari collection from Gina Lollobrigida in May 14th this year. The main piece being the diamond necklace and bracelet combination that can also be worn as a head piece.The actress is now in her late 80's and has probably decided that it is time to pass her pieces to another owner as well as a better use for the money that it will generate. Another bit of the story of the end of the golden era.

Impressive 19th Century Diamond PEACOCK brooch

2013-04-02T09:56:00.001+01:00

Sotheby's London has brought jewellery back into their range of auctions. One year after they closed down the department, jewels are now officially back on the catalogue!. The white glove sale (collection of the Late Michael Wellby) that they conducted shortly before Christmas might have played its part in convincing the auction house of the strength of demand for collector jewels.

The brooch above is my favourite, a peacock motif from the second half on the Nineteenth Century set in silver and gold with impressive circular and rose cut diamonds. In Persian and Babylonian cultures, peacocks were regarded as symbolic guardians of royalty.

View catalogue

A rare FLATO find

2013-03-17T10:43:00.001Z

This is not just a bracelet, it is also an exquisite object and a craftsman's masterpiece. Presented by Marja Sterk at Tefaf this weekend, it shows that Paul Flato went beyond than designing dazzling bold pieces for the grand Hollywood divas in the 1940's.

Paul Flato Gold Cuff

A dramatic chocker by LALIQUE

2013-03-16T21:33:00.001Z

Rene Lalique, 1905, Damselflies Nechlace

It was the turn of the Twentieth Century and European society was adjusting to the aftermath of a series of industrial, political and social revolutions. Economic buoyancy stimulated the growth of a middle class which flourished with the increase of commerce and manufactures. It was the perfect environment for an Art revolution. And Paris was right at the centre of it. The bohemian spirit was everywhere, and creativity and talent were qualities sought after and treasured in every discipline. So it also impregnated the world of jewellery and the short lived Art Nouveau movement appeared. It was led by Lalique in a daring and revolutionary challenge to the establishment. His pieces were affordable since he used colourful enamel and semi precious stones where high society still considered Belle Epoque "white jewellery" (diamonds and pearls set in platinum or white gold) the only acceptable ornament. Lalique designed for the artists, and so he thought his jewels as miniature works of art. He was obsessed with nature and used naturalistic motifs in almost all his creations. It was his response to the rigidity of the designs by his contemporaries.

Cartier Belle Epoque chocker and Boucheron bracelet, both c. 1900

The three pieces displayed above are exhibited by London antique dealer Wartski at the current Tefaf exhibition in Maastrich. Almost contemporaries, yet the contrast could not be more dramatic. It is quite easy to imagine the provocative Sarah Bernhardt wearing the Lalique piece while the "respectable" society women were still advocating for sober and discrete diamond pieces as a key differentiator from their husbands mistresses.

THE ART OF CARTIER: The power of Style. Iconic Clients

2013-03-07T20:47:00.000Z

During the first three decades of the 20th century, there emerged in Paris a new kind of social atmosphere out of which “Café Society” was born. Its Golden Age spanned roughly two decades from the 1930s onwards and it was during this time that marriages between the grandest aristocratic European families and the heirs of great American fortunes gave birth to a new elite class that was rich, cultivated and audacious. Its members bubbled over with imaginative creativity and spent fortunes making their lives a veritable work of art. The Duchess of Windsor was one of the reigning queens of Café Society, rivalling in elegance her contemporaries Daisy Fellowes and Mona Bismarck. Jewellery played a significant role as a statement of sophistication and the Duchess’s Flamingo brooch, Panther brooch, as well as a splendid necklace from 1947 are fine examples of her own daring elegance.

Cartier, 1940, Flamingo Brooch

From the 1950s other iconic clients turned to Cartier. In 1956, Grace Kelly married Prince Rainier of Monaco. The prince ordered his beloved’s engagement ring from Cartier. The bride’s trousseau also included a large diamond necklace, a diamond bracelet, and three ruby and diamond clips. Elizabeth Taylor, too, was a faithful client. Her love of jewellery became legendary and she was indulged by the amorous men in her life. In 1957 Mike Todd gave her a Cartier ruby and diamond necklace.

Cartier, 1951, Liz Taylor Necklace

In the late 50s and 70s, the boldest commissions ever were the jewellery ordered by the Mexican actress María Félix. A reptile enthusiast, she approached Cartier to create her unique Snake necklace and pair of earrings as well as her Crocodile necklace.

Cartier, 1975, Maria Felix Necklace

THE ART OF CARTIER: Oriental Influences

2013-03-06T20:37:00.000Z

Louis Cartier had a passion for exotic cultures. While Islamic art truly fascinated him —he had built up a very fine collection of Persian miniatures— Egyptian, Chinese and Indian art were equally influential on Cartier artworks from the beginning of the 1910s.
He had established a remarkable library of reference marks which served as inspiration for the jewellery designs. He also sought out authentic fragments of ancient art which entered the stock as apprêts and were incorporated in jewellery and objects. It was the unusual combination of non-European ancient art and modern mounts that led Cartier to a unique interpretation of 1920s Art Deco pieces.

Egypt

Louis Cartier’s fascination with Egyptian civilisation and its cultural heritage is manifested in his jewels from the 1910s where he incorporated a particularly Egyptian touch. In 1922, Howard Carter’s discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun brought Egypt back to the centre of artistic attention. Cartier’s Egyptian¬style pieces can be categorised into two distinctive sets: jewels and objects decorated with Egyptian¬style ornamentation, as found in reference works, and those that were embellished with an actual Egyptian antiquity such as a fragment of blue-glazed faïence

Cartier, 1924, Scarab Brooch

Persia – India

In 1911 Jacques Cartier travelled for the first time to India where he witnessed the reverence with which Parisian jewels and watches were treated by the maharajahs. These royals spent lavishly on Cartier pieces and also entrusted their stones to the jeweller so that they could be set in contemporary mounts, usually in platinum. This contact with India also inspired Cartier to design his magnificent Indian¬style parures. Stones carved using ancient Indian gem-cutting techniques opened up new avenues for Cartier. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds were carved into leaves or fluted beads and set into fruit and foliage jewels that became known as the Tutti Fruttipieces.

Cartier, 1936 Tutti Frutti Necklace, altered in 1963

The Far East

The Far East is a source of inspiration that led Cartier to create some outstanding works of art. The Art Deco period saw a huge surge in popularity in vanity and cigarette cases. Their varied dimensions gave the designers a great deal of freedom in their creations, as seen in a vanity case depicting a Chinese legend of long-lasting friendship. Antique jade was a favourite in the jewellery designs, as, for example, in a brooch made from an 18th-or 19th-century Chinese belt clasp.

Cartier, 1928, Chinese Vanity Case

At the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum

A rare POMELLATO vintage bracelet

2013-03-05T20:17:00.000Z

A couple of years ago, I was invited to a very original dinner to promote women networking in the city of London. It was really well organised and consisted of a small group of people with similar careers. I went thinking that it would be mainly centred around finance and discussions about the crisis and to my surprise it was about very fine jewellery!. It turned out that the dinner was sponsored by Pomellato, a brand that until that day I had categorised more as high street oriented than as Haute Joaillerie. They proved me wrong as we were shown an amazing collection of one of a kind rings completely different to everything else they do, it was their first attempt to fine jewellery, the Pom Pom collection of 40 rings. Each stone had been hand picked for their rarity and a whole cold setting had been designed specially for it... This is how I became interested in learning more about the story of Pomellato. The firm was founded in 1967 by Pino Rabolini in Milan and its introduction of the idea of prey-a-porter jewellery was revolutionary at the time.

The bracelet above is a very rare piece that belongs to one of the first collections of the firm, it is set in engraved gold with clusters of cabochon lapis lazuli; an inexpensive but undoubtedly beautiful piece, and a statement bracelet back in the 60's as well as today. It is being presented by New York antique dealer Robin Katz at the Los Angeles Antique Jewelry an Watch Show on March 22-24th.

JAR: About Geranium earclips and brilliant design

2013-02-02T11:35:00.000Z

Every time there is a piece made by JAR coming up for auction one gets reminded again of his genius. JAR is the only jeweller whose pieces achieve prices that double or triple the retail price at which he has previously sold them to his privileged customers. For normally, at jewellery auctions pieces are estimated by the auction house at one third of their retail price.

Much has been written about JAR's marketing genius, the fact that his Place Vendome shop has no window or regular opening hours, his reservation of the right to sell to a particular client if he thinks the pieces does not suit them and the long waiting list of celebrities and collectors that yearn to obtain one of his precious 80 or 90 unique creations every year. However, very little can be found about the pieces themselves and why are they so special. To me, JAR is like a pair of Manolo Blahnik shoes, the pieces go beyond fashion and they just make you look great, they suit and make the wearer look more beautiful without necessarily drawing the attention towards the objects. As Coco Chanel used to say, when a dress is truly well cut, people do not admire the dress, they admire the woman. In short, clever, long lasting designs that create addiction.

The earclips above will be auctioned at Sotheby's NY on February 7th.

Further literature:
The Cult of Jar - Forbes

THE ART OF CARTIER: Modernism vs Art Deco

2013-01-05T10:00:00.000Z

Cartier Pendant/Brooch Panther watch 1915

Geometrical and abstract designs started to appear in jewellery as far backs as 1904, in clear contrast to the Garland style. In 1909 there was a very important artistic event: the Russian Ballet of Sergei Diagilev was a major success in Paris. Louis Cartier was fascinated by the explosion of colours. One of his favourite colour combinations was blue and green and he interpreted in a magnificent mix of turquoise, lapis lazuli and jade or emerald and sapphire.

Onix was used since the beginning of the Twentieth Century and it became one of Cartier's favourite gemstones. It was very useful to enhance the diamonds as well as the piece's geometrical design. In 1914 appeared one of the most iconic designs by Cartier, the "panther skin" set in diamonds and onix. During that period and until the early thirties, rock crystal also became one of Cartier's favourite materials.

Cartier, cigarette case, 1930

Cartier created the basics of the Art Deco style before the First World War. The term and the style would be properly acknowledged after the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts took place in Paris in 1925. The most pure geometrical shapes and patterns were restricted to some objects like cigarette cases and some brooches.

Cartier, Pyramid clip brooch, 1935

Towards the end of the 1920's, the height of the Art Deco style brought back platinum and diamonds in a new type of "white jewellery" reminiscent of the one at the beginning of the century. Daring cuts were introduced, like the baguette, which suit the geometrical trend in Art deco perfectly. The pieces were first designed as flat and two dimensional and towards the 1930's they started to acquire volume.

THE ART OF CARTIER: Tiaras

2013-01-04T10:55:00.001Z

Cartier, Rinceaux Tiara, 1910

Tiaras are considered the ultimate royal power symbol. They have evolved through centuries into ever more sophisticated and luxurious versions according to their wearer's rank. They came back in fashion during the XIX Century and remained so until the First World War. The first tiaras made by Cartier date back to the beginning of the XX Century and most of them were set in platinum in the Garland style that reproduced the motifs from french art during the XVII and XVIII Centuries. It was a fundamental piece of adornment for the Belle Epoque dames.

Queen Elisabeth II Kokoshnik Tiara

In a similar way to the impressive brooches Devant de Corsage which could be worn thanks to the corset; the grand tiaras were fixed to sophisticated hair arrangements with high buns. After 1907, the russian influence brought the Kokoshnik style tiaras and Cartier created several pieces set with diamonds.

Cartier, Bandeau Tiara, 1924

The years between the First and Second World wars brought some of the most radical changes experienced by humankind in such short time. A few years of economic prosperity altered the order of society granting merchants and bankers entrance into the most exclusive circles. But perhaps the biggest change of all was the one related to women and their freedom. Many women were then able to emancipate and manage their own affairs, something that was forbidden in most countries until quite recently. This brought also changes to the way they dressed and the heavy tiaras were replaced by the lighter and more daring bandeau, worn on the forehead. It was the early twenties.

Cartier, Aquamarie Tiara, London 1937

During the late thirties, tiaras were not used either in New York nor Paris, but they were still worn in the English Court. However, after years of the deepest recession known, diamonds were substituted by other "fine" gemstones.

THE ART OF CARTIER: From Apprentice jeweller to Rue de la Paix

2013-01-03T10:25:00.000Z

Cartier, Devant de Corsage, 1906

Louis-Francois Cartier (1819-1904) worked at a jewellery workshop owned by Adolphe Picard at 29, Rue Montorgueil in Paris. In 1847, Master Picard moved to other premises and asked young Cartier to look after the old one. It took Cartier only six years to gather the expertise, courage and capital to open his own business near Palais Royal. Due to their fine craftsmanship, his pieces (of classical inspiration) drew attention from the most elegant clients of the time. Princess Matilde, cousin to Napoleon III, bought more than two hundred pieces and in 1859, Empress Eugenia de Montijo commissioned a silver tea service.

In 1859 the shop moved to 9, Boulevard des Italiens, the new fashionable district and Alfred (1841-1925), son of Louis-Francoise took over the business in 1874. The discovery of the diamonds mines in South Africa that happened in 1860 had a major impact in the jewellery world and from then on, diamonds would be the preeminent gemstone of fine jewellery. The pieces during this period were set in silver and gold with motifs inspired by Louis XV style, it would be known as the Garland style. It reached its height in 1890 and it would last until the first World war. Alfred was the first jeweller to start using platinum instead of silver to set this white jewellery as he was worried about the oxidation of the latter.

Alfred Cartier had three sons: Louis (1875-1942), Pierre (1878-1964) and Jacques (1884-1942). Louis started working with his father in 1898 and he would be soon followed by his two brothers. In 1899, Louis convinced his father, Alfred, to move Cartier's premises to the most elegant address in Paris, 13 Rue de la Paix, where it remains today.

Alfred Cartier and his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques in 1922

DANIEL BRUSH: Blue Steel Gold Light

2012-12-27T10:45:00.001Z

Daniel Brush Second Dome 1983-1989

Over the past 40 years, Daniel Brush has created an oeuvre unparalleled in contemporary American art—from large-scale painted canvases to gold-domed containers encrusted with gold granules so miniscule they must be fused with microscopic precision. Daniel Brush: Blue Steel Gold Light, opened October 16, 2012, brings together for the first time works from throughout Brush’s career, including examples of his poetic paintings and drawings, a selection of his most significant steel and gold wall sculptures, jewelry made from plastic, aluminum, steel, and precious gems, and some of his earliest gold-granulated objects. The exhibition will be installed on MAD’s second-floor galleries—the first time a single living artist has commanded that entire floor, which includes the Tiffany and Co. Foundation Jewelry Gallery—and will remain on view until February 17, 2013.

Daniel Brush Gold Heart 2003

He does not have a dealer and never has done a straight commission. Many who visit his workshop leave empty handed because he requires a personal "connection" with those who acquire his pieces!

Daniel Brush at Siegelson

BIJOUX ET PIERRES PRECIEUSES: Bijouterie et Joaillerie ART DECO, 1925 l'Apogée.

2012-12-15T22:04:00.000Z

This is a great article! Love the pics!

BIJOUX ET PIERRES PRECIEUSES: Bijouterie et Joaillerie ART DECO, 1925 l'Apogée.: Pendule Carpe de Cartier en Jade Cristal de roche, nacre, émail rouge, base en onyx corail et or 1925 Le mouvement Art Déco débute...

AUCTION REVIEW: the unique jewelry collection of the Late Michael Wellby

2012-12-10T18:15:00.003Z

Sandoz, Art Nouveau Brooch/Pendant in enamel and turquoises

For a jewelry collector in London, yesterday was one of the busiest sundays of the year as auction houses put their best shows on to help the public find special Christmas presents. The day started with an early 10:30 brunch and private view of the Christie's King St Magnificent Jewels exhibition which features an incredible selection of pieces signed by most of the master jewellers, from Verdura, Van Cleef and Arpels to Cartier, an authentic bling "bash". After a quick view of the Christie's South Kensington sale, we then headed towards Sotheby's in Bond Street for the ultimate jewelry indulgence.

After one year of no jewelry sales in London, Sotheby's come back could not have been better, and they went all in for it: champagne, canapés, a jewellery talk by David Bennet about the book he has written with Daniela Mascheti and of course the sale of the private collection of Late Michael Wellby, a famous dealer in german silver.

It is the most special collection that I have ever encounter for sale and it leaves one with a mixed feeling of both joy, at having discovered such amazing pieces, and sadness, at the thought that they will be split and sold separately. The owner and his wife spent over 60 years building up and looking after this collection, I don't know the reason why it is being sold now, but it is a bit of a shame!.

I found it amazing how they managed to condense the last four centuries of the history of jewellery in a little more than 200 pieces without leaving any major period or style out. The most remarkable feature of the collection however, is the consistent search for perfect craftsmanship. One can most definitely tell that each piece has been carefully selected and incorporated into the collection on its own merit. Undoubtedly one of the most special sales that we have seen lately!.

Mid Nineteenth Century Tiara

A fantastic Emerald Ray Brooch by VERDURA

2012-12-08T21:27:00.002Z

This a classic Verdura design, the Ray Brooch, from the 1950's. In fact the most popular version (the Knot) of it is displayed in CFJ Gallery by Hancocks. The one above is set with a magnificent cabochon emerald which makes it a unique piece for Verdura; he did not fancy using expensive stones as he wanted his pieces to stand out for their design, in the occasions when he did use very fine gemstones, the work was probably a custom made commission.

The brooch will be auctioned at Christie's King Street on December 12th. After New York and Bonhams London last week, this coming one we have two very special sales in London, Besides Christie's South Kensington on monday, Sotheby's on tuesday and Christie's King Street on wednesday with a huge selection of magnificent pieces!. And tomorrow morning... private view over brunch, could it be better?.

Fulco Verdura was born in 1898 in Palermo. At the age of 21, he inherited his family fortune and spent it over six years enjoying life at the centre of Europe's high society. In 1926 he went to Paris to work for Coco Chanel as a textile designer and almost immediately after he joined he redesigned all her personal jewellery, which was a great collection of gifts by her lovers, the Duke of Westminster and the Russian Grand Duke Dmitri amongst others. So Verdura became Chanel's head Jewellery designer for a number of years until he decided to move to New York and start his own business. He opened his own business in a very personal way; he only designed and manufactured pieces for the people he liked. He focused on design rather than on showing expensive stones, yet his pieces are always exuberant. Today one can still have the experience of exclusivity in the personal way that he lived and sold his creations by visiting a recreation of his apartment in the 12th floor of a magnificent New York skyscraper at 745, 5th Avenue.

VAN CLEEF and ARPELS: record prices on Art Deco pieces at Bonhams

2012-12-06T20:27:00.000Z

Van Cleef and Arpels breaks records and makes history. The brooch above sold today at Bonhams Bond Street, London for more than one million pounds. It features a typical Art Deco design set in different cut diamonds alternated in geometrical fashion and two very important drop pendants, an emerald and a natural pearl. The piece is huge and incredibly beautiful, undoubtedly one of the best examples of VCA Art Deco. Worthy of a collector!.

The other two pieces, are a set of ring and bracelet in emerald cut diamonds and burmese rubies. The central ruby in the ring, although less than three carats in weight is spectacular. The laboratory certificate did not qualify it as pigeon blood colour but to my humble eye it could not be otherwise. I loved the rubies, however the most remarkable feature of these pieces is their design; pure simplicity, magnificent Art Deco examples from not only a master jeweller but also a master stone setter. The pieces have been sold for more than ten their estimate.

Bejewelled Art Deco Handbags... from another world

2012-11-25T10:00:00.000Z

These amazing handbags belong to another era. Not only are they Art Deco in style and therefore form the 1920s-30s, but they also belong to a world so full of glamour that ordinary jewels were not enough and both men and women used to display all kind of bejewelled objects as well. Naturally handbags (or purses in America) became a perfect canvas for master jewellers to display their creativity and genius craftsmanship. Enamelled gold was always the preferred base for the claps which were set with Lapis lazuli and other coloured stones and embellished with tiny diamonds. These are three magnificent examples, the first one signed by Cartier, the other two with French hallmarks. All will be auctioned by Sotheby's NY on December 5th.

Revival style necklace by Louis Comfort TIFFANY

2012-11-24T22:33:00.000Z

This is a rare necklace designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany in 1913. The piece is set in yellow gold with a large carved Lapis lazuli and turquoise, amber and green stone beads. The revival style was very popular towards the end of the Nineteenth century, specially the greek and roman revival pieces that made Castellani and Giuliano so famous. The Egyptian revival was less popular and the style would become one of the main sources of inspiration the the Art Deco egyptian stream one decade later. The necklace is a great example of Louis Comfort Tiffany constant study of the use of colour and how to adapt it to jewellery. Similar to his coloured glass lamps, the jewels that he designed have become sought after and valued by collectors mainly for their artistic value. This piece will be auctioned by Sotheby's NY on December 5th.

A rare Art Deco bracelet by RUBEL Freres

2012-11-24T11:10:00.000Z

This bracelet is a rare find on more than one count. For starters it presents quite an unusual design for an Art Deco piece with a curious asymmetric geometrical design. In second place it is signed by a French jeweller that disappeared more than half a century ago, Rubel Freres. On top of that, the piece displays less than perfect emeralds and given how much Asian collectors appreciate perfect stones, the fact that it will be auctioned by Christie's in Hong Kong is also a curiosity.

I have found very little information so far about Rubel Freres but basically the firm was established in Paris and in 1939 the firm entered into an association with Van Cleef and Arpels, whom they followed to New York after they opened the first shop on 1943. Rubel Freres established themselves on Fifth Avenue as John Rubel Co., next to the Savoy. They were in business only for four years, until 1947 but they created some of the most iconic pieces of jewellery of the 1940's. In particular, they became famous for their ballerina brooches (they even used the same designer as Van Cleef for these, Maurice Duvalet) and specially the ones inspired by the flamenco dancers they used to employ at their Greenwich Village cafe.

GIMEL: Japanese perfection in modern jewellery

2012-11-23T21:36:00.000Z

What I like the most about Gimel is her sense of humour. Kaoru Kay Akihara is a unique contemporary jeweller. She trained in Canada and Los Angeles before establishing her studio in Japan overlooking the Rokko Mountains National Park. Akihara pieces are identified by their nature inspiration, the simplicity of their design and the perfection of their craftsmanship...and always, a little bejewelled bug hidden somewhere for the owners delight!. How much fun is that? She is also famous for personally selecting only the finest stones for each piece. The brooch above, one of the first pieces by Gimel that I have ever found at an auction, is set with an impressive burmese pigeon blood ruby that weights 6.8 carats. It will be sold by Christie's Hong Kong on November 27th and the estimate is c. $2-3 million!