CollectingFineJewels

LAPADA Review: amazing 1883 BOUCHERON peacock feather necklace

2014-09-28T10:33:00.002+01:00

The joy of this Sunday morning!!!!, sunny London, a run in Hyde Park and a visit to the Lapada Antiques Fair in Berkeley Square to find this extremely rare and magnificent XIX century diamond necklace by Boucheron at Sandra Cronan's stall. Well done!

1883 Boucheron diamond emerald and sapphire necklace

PARIS BIENNALE: amazing aquamarine Art Deco bracelet by Jean Fouquet

2014-08-26T15:33:00.000+01:00

Jean Fouquet, Art Deco Aquamarine, diamond and enamel bracelet, Paris 1926

During the Art Deco period of the early 1910s to late 1930s emerged a movement that stripped away unnecessary decoration, implemented simple forms, and found inspiration in the modern machine. This new avant-garde movement attracted a select group of artists known as the bijoutiers-artistes, or artist-jewelers, who focused on a modern aesthetic rather than material value. A group of artists, including artist-jewelers Raymond Templier, Jean Dunand, Jean Després, Gerard Sandoz, and Georges and Jean Fouquet formed the Union des Artistes Modernes as a reaction to the prevailing artistic movements of the times. A chief proponent of this movement, Jean Fouquet was a purist who believed in excellent workmanship and having his designs consistently reflecting his aesthetic.

This bracelet is a perfect blend of Fouquet's modern taste with the pristine excellence of fine jewelry. Fouquet, who preferred using semi-precious stones, cleverly combined unusual materials together with the use of large step-cut aquamarines within a ground of geometric enamel sections, then accented by bands of pavé-set diamonds that appear to be woven into the enamel pieces. The large surfaces of black enamel bring fluidity to the bracelet connecting the various gemstones and geometric shapes in this superbly designed bold jewel.

Jean Fouquet's audacious and innovative designs for his father were created only for a short time from 1925 to 1931. This bracelet, designed in 1926 just after the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, is a seminal work of Art Deco design, complete with the original drawing and the original case. Fouquet was inspired by the form of the cuff bracelet and its ability to be seen from afar, he once said, “A piece of jewelry must be composed of masses clearly visible from a distance.” He explained, “Objects glimpsed at top speed become distorted and we can only perceive them by their volume . . . Today we have become accustomed to reading quickly.” This bracelet leaves a striking impression upon the viewer and is an exceptional example of abstract sculpture. The piece is made even more incredible when worn on the wrist. This magnificent bracelet embodies the avant-garde spirit of Art Deco design.

Jean Fouquet's drawing

Maison Fouquet was founded in Paris in 1862 by Alphonse Fouquet, who exhibited jewelry inspired by sphinxes and chimeras at the 1878 Exposition Universelle in Paris. In 1895, he was succeeded by his son, Georges, a designer and shrewd businessman respected among his peers and a commander of the Légion d'Honneur. At the turn of the century, graphic designer Alphonse Mucha created imaginative jewels for the company. Jean Fouquet joined the family firm in 1920, designing avant-garde jewelry based on rectilinear precepts. After the firm closed in February 1936, he worked on commissions for private clients.

It will be offered for sale by Siegelson at the Paris Biennale des Antiquaires.

An extremely rare "orange tree" Art Deco brooch by CARTIER

2014-04-27T09:57:00.000+01:00

The "Important Jewels" spring auction season is reaching its height this coming weeks with London, NY and Geneva sales. A few days ago we saw Bonhams NY selling a rare Art Deco brooch by Cartier at a record price multiple of more than twenty times the estimate. This coming week, the same house is featuring an even rarer Cartier design: a 1914 coloured "orange tree" brooch. Yet again, the estimate is £15,000 to £20,000, can't wait to see where it ends!

A rock crystal and gem-set "Orange Tree" brooch, by Cartier, 1914

There are several reasons why this tiny piece is so rare and none of them have to do with the stones. This piece is all about daring design and convention challenging. The brooch was made in 1914, almost eleven years before the Paris Art Decoratives exhibition took place, so the use of bold colours itself is already very innovative for its time. A green foil behind the carve rock crystal, the use of citrine, emerald and rubies in the same piece are almost provocative in a piece signed by Cartier back then. There is no individual signature by the designer but everything points towards Charles Jacqueau, one of the most famous designers that has worked for the Maison, and chief responsible for its transition to Art Deco from the white jewellery of the Belle Epoque and the Garland Style. The other element that points towards Jacqueau is the black onix and white diamond geometrical combination, he was responsible for the groundbreaking "panther" watch design made in that same year of 1914 also by Cartier.

The piece will be auctioned by Bonham's London next April 30th. We will be there!

Catalogue notes

Provenance
Gifted to Elizabeth Corbett on her wedding day in 1941 by Lady Jean Ward, granddaughter of Darius Ogden Mills, US financier and philanthropist and once the richest man in California.
Direct descent to the present owner.

This is a rare example of Cartier's "Orange Tree" design and was created by Cartier Paris in 1914. Although it is difficult to attribute surviving Cartier jewels to individual designers due to the firm's policy of anonymity, this small brooch, standing just 3.3cm high, incorporates a myriad of innovative design influences and technical innovations, all characteristic of Cartier's pioneering designer Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968). After joining the firm in 1909, Jacqueau guided Cartier away from the Garland Style, advocating bold colours in inventive, contemporary designs that would set it apart from its competitors artistically. Jacqueau borrowed liberally from other cultures in his design repertoire; motifs from Egyptian, Assyrian, Persian, Indian, Islamic, Japanese, Greek and Chinese civilizations were all thrown into the melting pot. His sketches from nature in the Jardins des Plantes were translated into miniature gemstone plants, earning him the nickname "Jacqueau la Fleur". Jacqueau regularly visited the Louvre and drew inspiration from the exhibits there; perhaps the painting "Madonna della Vittoria" (1495), depicting Saint Elizabeth and the little Saint John under lemon and orange trees on which birds perch, helped to inspire the "Orange Tree" line.

One of Cartier Paris' earliest "Orange Tree" brooches was made in 1913; it is similar to this example in being of two-dimensional, highly stylised form incorporating birds' head motifs, but here the similarity ends. Whereas the 1913 brooch is monochromatic, almost entirely set with white diamonds offset by a few onyx highlights, this brooch, made a year later, bursts with colour combinations and different shapes and cuts of gemstone. 1913 was a pivotal year for Cartier: Jacqueau's obsession with the bright colours in Diaghilev's Ballet Russes had reached its zenith - Nadelhoffer notes how his colleagues in the design studio playfully drew caricatures of him dressed as Isadora Duncan in billowing robes - allowing the firm to finally break free from the constraints of the Garland Style. In November 1913, Cartier showcased fifty new jewelled creations at their New York premises, which they described as "from the Hindoo, Persian, Arab, Russian and Chinese". This "Orange Tree" brooch of 1914 clearly demonstrates the new influences at play in its use of gemstones of different shape, colour, cut and texture, from the carved rock crystal applied over a green foil, to the buff-top calibré-cut citrines, and the use of shaped onyx, which had been introduced into Cartier's designs from 1910, and which lent structure and contrast to so many of its Art Deco pieces. In addition, the brooch displays the maker's mark of Henri Picq, Cartier's main workshop supplier between 1900 and 1918, renowned for their high-quality platinum and who would later execute many of the "Tutti Frutti" pieces of which the brooch is surely a very early forerunner.

See Hans Nadelhoffer "Cartier Extraordinary", Thames & Hudson, 1984, black and white photograph No 109, a similar orange tree brooch, 1913, by Cartier Paris. See also plate 11, an "orange tree" hatpin in carved rock crystal with onyx and diamond fruits, dated 1926.

CARTIER: Record breaking (and breathtaking) Art Deco brooch sold at Bonham's auction in NY

2014-04-15T19:53:00.000+01:00

A gem-set, diamond and enamel brooch, Cartier, circa 1925, designed as a coral and onyx bead fan motif, suspending a rock crystal ring, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds; signed Cartier; estimated total diamond weight: 3.50 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 2 1/4in. Sold for $317,000; Est. $15,000-25,000

This is one the rarest collector pieces that I have come across in a very long time. The fan design by Cartier is extremely unusual, not so much for its clear Deco elements like the materials combination and the geometrical shape but for the rock crystal ring attached to it. And now, for its price, as well!.

The Gemstone Series: January GARNETS

2014-01-24T20:11:00.002+00:00

Today is my birthday… so I had no choice but to continue the gemstone series with January’s birthstone: the garnet. From the rich burgundy red of Pyrope garnets, the vibrant green of Tsavorite garnets and to the orange hues of Spessartite garnets and so many others…

Floral cuff bracelet from the Chopard in titanium, set with 25.48ct green tsavorites

Hemmerle brooch in white gold, copper and silver with garnets, diamonds and sapphires

Garnet is derived from the word granatum, means seed, and is called so because of the gemstone's resemblance to a pomegranate seed. References to the gemstone dates back to 3100 B.C., when the Egyptians used garnets as inlays jewelry.

Brooch Date- 1860–79 Culture- British Medium- gold, garnet Metropolitan Museum of Art

Garnet is the name of a group of minerals that comes in a rainbow of colors, from the deep red of the pyrope garnet to the vibrant green of tsavorites. Today, the most important sources for garnet are Africa, Sri Lanka, and India.

CARTIER African Influences – High Jewelry Earrings White gold, two cabochon-cut mandarin garnets of 24.21 ct

Panthère de Cartier High Jewelry bracelet Platinum, one 63.55-carat cabochon-cut spessartite garnet, garnets, onyx, obsidian, emerald, diamonds

The Gemstone Series: Collecting AMAZONITE

2014-01-02T19:00:00.000+00:00

Amazonite is a green variety of feldspar whose name comes from the Amazon river. It is a rare mineral that sometimes has even been used as a gemstone given its striking colour once polished.

Amazonite, diamond, ruby, demantoid-garnet and gold snake brooch, c.1870; the coiled snake is a symbol of eternity

Amazonite Box by BOLIN Moscow, Russia 1899-1908

Amazonite Modernist Parure - French, c.1915

Cartier Art Deco Amazonite necklace, 1925

Discovering ZOE and MORGAN

2014-01-02T13:28:00.000+00:00

The history of Zoe & Morgan is a story of design and of family. From a childhood spent travelling the globe with their parents, many exotic cultures made a lasting impression, particularly their emigration to New Zealand from England by sea. Taking in the foreign lands of Panama, Jamaica, and Tahiti along the way gave the three Sibbald children an appreciation of old world charm, adventure and style.

Watching their father make jewellery in his own workshop ingrained in them from an early age an appreciation of the craft, the process; watching the primordial materials transform to become precious, coveted items of beauty and sentiment.

With this upbringing it was no surprise the three siblings were drawn to the creative and atypical. Zoe worked in millenary, Morgan forged pathways through music, Ruth plied her trade in the modelling industry.

After a fateful trip to India, Morgan returned from his travels as his late father so often did; with an appreciation for another culture and a pocketful of precious gems. Sharing his finds with Zoe, this reawakened a shared love of the process they witnessed so often as children. Before long the two were collaborating on the first pieces that would lead to the formation of Zoe & Morgan.

Available at Benna

FERNANDO JORGE: sensual Brazil meets cool London

2013-12-29T09:55:00.003+00:00

Brazilian jeweller Fernando Jorge has unsurprisingly become the wonder boy of the contemporary jewellery scene in just three years since he graduated from St. Martins in London. Fernando landed in Europe with a baggage full of incredibly original drawings, ten years of jewellery experience in Brazil and a unique knowledge of local craftsmen and stones. With this background, it cannot come as a huge surprise that his talent was sotted and recognised almost immediately. He was quickly snapped by iconic agent Valery de Mure and selected for the prestigious Rock Vault group and won the British Fashion Council award in 2012. Besides his well deserved success, the best feature about Fernando is his jewellery. His "fluid" pieces combine semiprecious gemstones like calcite with delicate rose gold snake chain in ultra sensuous designs; the "electric" series is modern glamour in a punk fashion with black gold set with a unique combination of sapphires and blue topaz or all white set in opals. His Gemfields emerald collection combines the best elements of his work so far, the fluid snake chain design with the irregular shaped stones that transmit so much energy to the pieces. And so, one could continue mentioning all of his innovative ideas, like the use of blue john (a rare english stone) in fine jewellery. Most certainly we will be watching!.

Fernando Jorge electric ring set in black gold with sapphires and blue topaz

Fernando Jorge ring set with Blue John

Fernando Jorge Gemfields emerald and diamond earrings

Fernando Jorge fluid earrings detail

Fernando Jorge by Vogue Brazil

CARTIER Mystery Clocks… unveiled

2013-12-25T20:25:00.000+00:00

What's Houdini got to do with timepieces? Plenty as it turns out. Not Harry Houdini himself, but the original artist and watch inventor who he took his stage name from. That man is Jean Eugene Robert-Houdin, the man who designed the mystery clock. Houdin was a self-taught magician and engineer who was fascinated by the idea of the disappearing act and sleight of hand tricks. His work involved the use of transparent glass displays and hidden mechanisms that connected to the display of the clocks he built, and won renown for its inventiveness. Many of his clocks involved hiding the gear train within the clock base, which was then connected via a rod or serrated glass or crystal dial to the display, creating the illusion that the clock ran without any additional wheels. During the 19th and early 20th century, mystery clocks were highly popular among the elite, who found it a fascinating design.

Jean Eugene Robert-Houdin Mystery Clocks c.1850

Originally inspired by the work Jean Eugène Robert-Houdin, the first Mystery Clocks were designed for (Louis) Cartier in 1913 by Maurice Couet and known as the “Model A.” They featured rotating rock crystal discs to which hands were mounted to indicate the hours and minutes. The rock crystal allows the viewer to see right through the clock, which seemingly has no perceptible means for the hands to move. The mechanism by which the crystal discs turn is invisibly powered by gears hidden in the frame of the clock, while the base of the clock conceals the main body of its mechanical movement. For decades the “Pendule Mystérieuses” or “Mystery Clocks” have captured the imagination. The cost and complexity of the mystery clocks has meant that, over the years, few examples have been made and they achieve astronomical prices every time they come out in auction.

Cartier Mystery Clock set with Citrine in Black Jade and enamel

Cartier Mystery Clock set in Quartz

The Gemstone Series: Collecting AGATE

2013-12-23T21:41:00.001+00:00

The Agate is a semi precious gemstone that was discovered over 3000 years ago by greek philosopher and naturalist Theophrastus, on the shore of the river Achates. It belongs to the mineral family of the Chalcedonies, a type of quartz like Aventurine, Carnelian and Onix. Agate when cut exhibits a series of lines and different colours that make it strikingly attractive. This gemstone has been used in art objects and jewellery for centuries. It was very popular in traditional Scottish silver and gold jewellery, specially used in brooches and buckles combining different colour agate. Black and botswana agate was priced in Victorian jewellery and almost any single colour variety was used during the Art Deco period, from green, black and white to auburn jasper agate. In contemporary jewellery Agate has experienced a huge revival and it is used in almost every costume collection as well as by fine jewellery makers like Kimberly McDonald to masters like JAR.

Antique Victorian Banded Agate & Pearl Bangle Bracelet in 18k Gold

Gold tiara by Carlo Guiliano supporting a stylized wreath of banded agate laurel leaves and pearl berries; the front takes the form of a rosette of similarly carved petals centring on a single pearl. London, c. 1860

Art Deco Jasper Agate & Diamond Pin / c. 1920

JAR, Agate and diamond brooch

LUZ CAMINO: First art, then jewellery

2013-12-22T22:28:00.001+00:00

It is not every day that a Spanish artist gets to the top of the Art Jewellery world, here is Luz Camino's well deserved homage. After more than two decades making and designing strikingly unusual pieces of jewellery or little bejewelled sculptures, Madrid based Luz Camino is currently featured in the recently published book "21st Century Jewellery Designers", retailed at Bergdorf Goodman in New York and exhibited in the Museum of Arts and Design in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Yet in Spain she is a connoisseur's secret, her work is admired by artists and coveted by collectors but still unknown to the general public. She is the first Spaniard that has succeeded as an Art Jeweller, hopefully she will have paved the way for younger talent. And perhaps this will mark the beginning of Art Jewellery being truly appreciated in Spain.

Luz Camino earrings

Luz Camino wing brooch, set with sapphires, emeralds and acquamarines in enamelled gold and silver

Luz Camino opal bangle set in silver

Cartier, jeweler to kings

2013-12-22T19:48:00.001+00:00

More than 600 pieces from the Cartier Heritage at one of the most complete exhibitions about Cartier jewellery organised ever. After the successful exhibitions in Madrid and Shanghai, this is the Paris "grand finale". Unmissable!.

Visit the website
Cartier, jeweler to kings

The must have 40 books about JEWELS

2013-12-15T21:15:00.001+00:00

The updated ultimate list of Jewelry books

Collecting (JAR) Jewels

2013-12-15T11:21:00.000+00:00

Ever since my visit to the JAR Exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in NY a few days ago, I have been circling around the idea of what can I possibly write about it that has not been said or written yet. I came out of the Museum absolutely intoxicated, these were no jewels, they were sculptures set with fabulous gemstones. These may not be pieces for one to wear but most certainly they are pieces to dream about. It did not even bother me that I could not try them on or that none was explaining me the intricacies of the pieces, I just wanted to see them, their shapes and motifs are so imaginative and surprising that even the idea of them is interesting!. So I have become a hunter for JAR jewellery, and I have decided to start collecting the pictures of as many as I can find.

JAR Earrings 2011 Emeralds, oriental pearls, diamonds, and platinum Private collection Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

JAR Lilac Brooches 2001 Diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver, and gold Private collection Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris.

Crazy about Suzanne BELPERRON

2013-12-12T20:51:00.000+00:00

Today Sotheby's London has auctioned a few jewellery pieces that belonged to the Duchess of Windsor. As far as provenance it does not get better than that. And as far as makers, as one should expect with the Windsors, most of the pieces were by Cartier. There was one exception, however, a relatively worthless ring set with a beautiful heart shaped citrine of an intense orange hue. The ring was made (never signed, for she never signed her pieces) by Suzanne Belperron. The estimate was £2,000 to £3,000, surely the less important piece of the series, yet it has been sold, after a fierce bidding, at more than ten times the lower estimate (including premium, but still…). The previous memorabilia articles have all gone for the lower estimate or within the range and the three important Cartier pieces afterwards have been sold at a high price but nothing spectacular. The highlight today has been the insignificant ring made by a remarkable woman jeweller whose creations are becoming collectors' icons.

Citrine ring by Suzanne Belperron, 1955. Formerly in the collection of the Duchess of Windsor

BVLGARI: blue or green? Christie's or Sotheby's?

2013-12-09T21:39:00.000+00:00

Here is an idea for a trip aimed to put together a striking set that surely was never meant to be. This week two pieces made by Bvlgari will be auctioned; the first one by Christies in New York, is a pair of drop earrings that combine sapphires and emeralds in a alternate design. Very Bvlgari, in a JAR kind of way… The Christies auction will take place on December 10th.

BVLGARI, drop earrings set in yellow gold and diamonds with emeralds and sapphires

The second piece is a 1970's watch made by Piaget for Bvlgari (here is the connection!) and it features the signature snake design of the House set in yellow gold enamelled in vivid translucent blue and green enamel. The eyes are set with two pear shaped diamonds. The watch will be auctioned by Sotheby's in London on December 12th.

BVLGARI, 1970's watch by Piaget, set in yellow gold enamelled in blue and green with two pear diamonds

A rare Diamond "Escargot" brooch by Suzanne BELPERRON

2013-12-08T20:57:00.000+00:00

Suzanne Belperron is undoubtedly one of the grandest feminine figures of all times in the jewellery world. The brand and the archives were acquired by Verdura in 1999, now owned by the Landrigan family, who is now promoting and exhibiting her work. This together with the huge attraction of her pieces in recent auctions have revived her genius and turned her into a cult jewellery designer.

Not unlike Verdura, Suzanne Belperron is better known for her attention to design rather than to precious stones. In fact she often did not even use precious materials, yet her pieces are always perfectly finished and flattering, reflecting her deep understanding of jewellery making.

Her "white" jewellery is quite rare, for she preferred working with yellow gold and coloured stones. The brooch below is therefore a high collectable piece, it was made between 1932 and 1940 and it is set in white gold (not platinum probably due to its scarcity during World War II) with old mine european circular cut diamonds arranged in four interlacing scrolls trimmed with a string of baguette cut tones. A striking piece, which still carries her "trademark" round voluminous design. The brooch will be auctioned by Christie's NY next week on Dec 11th.

Diamond Escargot Brooch from Suzanne Belperron, 1932-1940

We saw recently another piece of white jewellery by Suzanne Belperron, the striking three band bracelet featured below.

Diamond cuff by Suzanne Belperron, the Lewitt collection

CARTIER Jewels from the Duchess of Windsor

2013-12-07T19:33:00.001+00:00

I am going to be vey cheesy, so I apologise in advance. Those who normally read me know that I stick to factual descriptions of jewellery but today was too good to resist. The combination includes lunch at Cipriani (C London now) sitting next to Mr Cipriani himself, and afterwards trying on the Duchess of Windsor pieces at Sotheby's with no other than Valentino…, yes Valentino!, luckily he was more attracted by the cigarette cases and Duke's memorabilia than the Duchess pieces, so I still have a chance!.

Cartier Amethyst, Turquoise and diamond bracelet from the Duchess of Windsor

The bracelet above is a striking piece, it features a very original combination that was a favourite of the Duchess, amethysts and turquoise. It was made by Cartier in 1954. When the full collection of the Windsor jewels was auctioned for the first time, in 1987, there were five pieces with the same gemstone combination; the best known one being the famous Cartier bib necklace later acquired by Elizabeth Taylor and exhibited in The Art of Cartier. The bracelet matches a ring of similar design made by Cartier in 1989.

Cartier, Amethyst, Turquoise and Diamond ring

The Duke and Duchess of Windsor

There is another piece of great historical significance in the collection, the sapphire bracelet that the Duchess wore in 1972 she was finally received by Queen Elizabeth II.

Cartier sapphire bracelet, 1945, from the Duchess of Windsor

The auction will take place at Sotheby's London on Thursday, December 11th.

Watch the video!

A victorian SAPPHIRE of substance

2013-12-07T11:07:00.004+00:00

This week, Bonhams London auctioned forty pieces from the collection of famous best seller writer Barbara Taylor Bradford, best known for her novel "A Woman of Substance" which, with 32 million copies, is one of the top ten bestselling fiction books of all time. The collection was mainly contemporary very large pieces, with only one antique brooch that immediately caught my eye. It was a 44 carat Sri Lankan sapphire with a double diamond cluster all set in silver and yellow gold. The brooch is beautiful and very finely made, and since I have a weakness for victorian cluster brooches, it was destined to make it to the blog. The brooch was purchased by her husband at London antique dealer SJ Phillips in 1996.

Victorian Sapphire Brooch from Barbara Taylor Bradford

The name Sapphire has a greek origin and it means "blue stone". Together with Rubies and Emeralds, Sapphires are one of the three kinds of most precious stones and the four C diamond quality classification applies to them. So Clarity, Cut, Colour and Carat determine the value of a stone. Although they can be found in a large variety of colours, blue is the most sought after and valuable one. Origin matters a lot, it signals the stone colour quality (and distance purple hues) but also its rarity. The most sought after ones are from Kashmir because of the purity of their blue and also because since 1937 most mining activity has ceased in the region. The second category in terms of origin, is Burma; the stones from this region display an often referred to as "electric blue" colour due to both its intensity as well as its even distribution. The third most important region is Sri Lanka, the stones here are a bit lighter, yet often more uneven. The light tone brings in more brilliance and this makes Sri Lankan sapphires a favourite stone in jewellery making.

CHANTECLER and his holiday jewels

2013-11-30T10:09:00.002+00:00

Chantecler was founded in 1947 on the beautiful island of Capri by Pietro Capuano and Salvatore Aprea. Capri i the 1950s was a magnet for the international jet set and glamorous personalities such as Jacqueline Onassis, Ingrid Bergman, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Greta Garbo. All of them were frequent visitors who soon became collectors of the colourful and exuberant jewels created by Chantecler's charismatic founders. Today, Chantecler is a prestigious brand run by the Aprea family, still designing jewels that embody the "pure spirit of Capri".

Chantecler diamond and sapphire earrings

The pair of earrings above represents it to perfection, a cascade of marquise cut diamonds and sapphires, set in a symmetrical design, one in diamonds with a sapphire cluster, the other one with sapphires in a diamond pave setting. Elegant yet daring, a bit of a rebel act in a holiday mood… They will be auctioned by Bonhams in London on Dec 5th.

An adorable pearl and diamond brooch by Buccellati

2013-11-16T19:50:00.002+00:00

Not all the fine jewels have a multimillion price tag. After a week of so many record prices and huge diamonds I found this brooch was exactly what I needed: beautifully crafted by Buccellati, it is set with pearls and small diamonds in blackened gold. It is a cute and tasteful piece that will be auctioned by Christie's Hong Kong in the upcoming Magnificent jewels sale, yet this lot comes with no reserve at an estimate below $2,000!.

One to watch! JAR Chalcedony and kunzite ring

2013-11-12T15:59:00.001+00:00

Tomorrow's Sotheby's Geneva Magnificent Jewels auction will be one of the most important events of the year for many many reasons. The pink star amongst them. However, there will also be other "minor" treasures that are worthwhile to watch, in the unlikely event that they go unnoticed to main the collectors and dealers.

The ring below, signed by JAR, is one of them. Made out of Chalcedony and set with a circular kunzite and diamonds, is almost elfish!

JAR, 1983 Chalcedony, kunzite and diamond ring

One of the most beautiful brooches I have ever seen....

2013-11-11T21:03:00.001+00:00

For once, I have no words..., this may not be the most important piece of jewellery ever made, nor a royal crown piece, it is however simply stunning! Good luck Christie's bidders...

XIX Century natural pearl brooch set in gold and silver with a double cluster of rose cut diamonds

Art Deco Jabot pins, amongst most versatile pieces of jewellery

2013-11-10T19:04:00.001+00:00

Cartier, Art Deco Onix and diamond jabot pin

Art Deco Onix and Diamond Jabot pins

The brooch above was made by Cartier in the 1920's and it is set in a typical combination of black onix and diamonds on platinum. The design is very unusual with the top end featuring a long fringe or tassel with cascading large rose cut diamonds. It is part of the upcoming Hong Kong Christie's auction on November 26th.
At the risk of turning it into a bit of an obsession, I find Art Deco monocrome combination fascinating!.

Art Deco Onix and diamond Jabot Pin at Macklowe Gallery, NY

Jabot pins are a particular type of brooch. Their main characteristic is that they are usually made out of one large pin which has adornments on both ends, the lower one normally being detachable so that it can be fastened. This way, when the brooch is worn on a garment, the pin is invisible leaving the two ornaments as if floating. Jabot pins get their name from a ruffle used by men and women to decorate shirts on the front and dates back to the seventeenth century. The pins became a piece of jewellery in the Art Deco period, since their elongated geometric shape (and symmetry in many occasions) suited the style to perfection. They were worn as brooches in multiple ways and even on hats and handbags. The variety of Art Deco designs for this type of brooches in inmense, and they are undoubtedly one of the most versatile pieces of jewellery.

Rarely worn today, these pieces are a collection's theme on their own. Like necessaire cases and minaudieres, each surviving original piece is unique and worth to be treasured.

Art Deco Jabot pin set with opals, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds

DISCOVERIES: ANNA HU; Symphony of Jewels, op.1

2013-11-08T12:35:00.000+00:00

Anna Hu Iris Ring

Anna Hu was born in Tainan, Taiwan in 1977. From the age of 4, Anna trained as a classical musician. In 1991, she moved to America to study cello at the Walnut Hill Arts School in Boston, and in 1993 she was selected by her faculty to perform with Yo Yo Ma . She went on to study at the Parsons School of Design summer program in Paris and graduated with a Bachelors degree in cello from the New England Conservatory.

Anna Hu Detail

In 1998, the 20 year old cellist learned her promising career needed to change due to injuries associated with tendonitis. Anna Hu set out on a new creative path. From the rigors of classical music, Anna turned to gemology, completing a degree as Graduate Gemologist in just one season at the Gemological Institute of America.

Anna Hu Phoenix Jade Ring

She went on to Parsons School of Design, graduating with a Masters degree in 19^th century French Jewelry in 2000 while simultaneously studying jewelry design at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology. She earned a Masters degree in Arts Administration from Colombia University in 2001, interned at Christie's jewelry department in 2002 and went on to study the unique qualities of precious stones and the exquisite craftsmanship of French jewelry-making while working in purchasing and merchandising for nearly a decade in the ateliers of Van Cleef and Arpels and Harry Winston .

Anna Hu Water Lilies

Anna Hu Iris Cuffs

At 30 years of age in 2008, Anna founded her namesake brand, Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie, and opened her first flagship boutique in New York's Plaza Hotel on Fifth Avenue, the epicenter of the world's finest jewelry brands. Anna Hu is the only Asian American jewelry designer to work exclusively with French-trained artisans in their New York and Parisworkshops. Each Anna Hu design is unique. Her work combines eastern and western influences, often inspired by classical music and nature. She has paid homage to fine artists drawing reference from Impressionism and Art Deco.

Anna Hu was recognized for technical innovation in design and honored with the China Institute's "Artistic Vision" award in 2011. Her jewelry has been worn by style-influencers the likes of Madonna and Gwyneth Paltrow . In September of 2012, The Vendome Press and Thames and Hudson have published "Symphony of Jewels, op. 1" a limited edition monograph printed in Verona, Italy, featuring the first 100 pieces from Anna Hu 's couture collection.

SOURCE Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie

http://www.anna-hu.com