Colorado Lifestyle

Lawn Lake Llama Outing

2012-01-14T06:00:00.000-07:00

Distance: 6 miles round trip (12.9 mile round trip to Lawn Lake)
Elevation: 8,540 ft - 9,632 ft (campground)
Elevation Gain: 1,092 ft
Date Hiked: 22 October 2011
Dogs: No, National Park
Bathroom at trailhead: Yes

Llamas on the Lawn Lake Trail

One day in October we decided to take a few llamas on a stroll in Rocky Mountain National Park. We called the park information line and asked if the Bridal Veil Falls trailhead had space for stock trailers. The voice on the phone sounded like something out of the "Mummy's Revenge", ancient and crotchety, but it said yes so we were foolishly pacified. This turned out to be very wrong and in fact we almost got ourselves stuck trying to turn around at the end of McGraw Ranch Road. Needless to say we were not happy. With On Star in the truck we called the park headquarters again. This time, the mummified assistant answering the phone was more forthcoming... "Eh, what is stock?" Like horses and stuff and we answered. "Eh, Bridal Veil Falls has no space for horses". Duh we replied we just found that out. Where in the park can we take our llamas we asked as we drove back into Estes Park. "Eh, I have no idea" the voice replied with the unmistakable sound of a sarcophagus lid closing. We were not about to let this go, however and made our B movie reject look it up. That is how we ended up at the Lawn Lake Trail. This turned out to be a much better option.

The stock parking for Lawn Lake is a quarter of a mile up Fall River Road from the Lawn Lake Trailhead. It is quite large and the stock trail starts just across the road. While it does head to the trailhead, there is a turnoff for the trail itself that cuts a few hundred yards off the trip.

Looking down on the Alluvial Fan. Large boulders the size of cars litter the valley, testament to the power of water.

20 years later and flood is still evident

I have always liked this trail because it winds leisurely along the eroded banks of the Roaring River. Back in 1982, the Lawn Lake dam failed, causing a torrential flood that ripped out the banks of the the Roaring River, creating the Alluvial Fan (a great place to walk in the park), and flooding Estes Park, killing one camper. The force of that flood is still evident today.

Mt Chiquita (13,069 ft) peeks above the trees while Ypsilon Mountain (13,514 ft) stays out of site just to the right.

Long's Peak dominates the view looking back down the trail

After hiking with llamas to Thunder Lake, which can only be classified as a death march, the Lawn Lake trail was like Disneyland. It was flat, without rocks, blanketed with soft pine needles and airy. A few peaks were visible from the trail, but the big draw was the solitude, pleasant Lodgepole forest, and crisp fall breezes that tickled the senses.

Our turn around point. Lawn Lake is another 3.5 miles further near the mountain in the distance.

Llamas Krescent and Liberty smile for the tourists..."Can we pet them?" was a common refrain.

We turned around at the campground, which is 3 miles in. The hike to Lawn Lake is much longer (13 miles round trip). I would love to come back and run it. As it was we were walking at least 3 miles an hour. We might return this summer to take the llamas all the way. They are great for carrying your caviar and inflatable butlers to remote picnic locations. Just don't forget that etiquette demands a cummerbund for such formal occasions.

South Boulder Creek West

2012-01-07T06:00:00.000-07:00

Distance: 4.0 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,485 ft - 5,803 ft
Elevation Gain: 318 ft
Date Hiked: 11 December 2011
Dogs: Off leash in designated areas with Boulder green tag
Bathroom at trailhead: Yes

Big sky and open space greet the hiker on the South Boulder Creek West Trail

South Boulder Creek West Trail is an east/west trail that connects Highway 93 to the Mesa Trail south of Boulder. It can be walked or ran in its own right or used as a means of connecting into the many trails of the South Mesa Trail system.

Looking back at the trailhead after crossing through a grove of Cottonwood trees

Flatirons in the distance. The trail will curve off to the left.

While I have seen this trail listed on a map of the area, I have never been sufficiently motivated to check it out, preferring to start out on the Mesa Trail itself from the South Mesa Trailhead. A friend convinced me to go, however and I was pleasantly surprised by the experience. The views of the flatirons are quite expansive from this trail and the broad open fields, lightly covered in snow, were welcoming as only wide open spaces can be.

Trees dot the landscape

Twisted Cottonwood

We did this hike late on a Sunday afternoon in the middle of December. At that time of year, the sun sets behind the flatirons around 3:30pm, so we did not have much light to play with. The trail is easy going, particularly when covered with snow, however so we were able to make good time. It is almost a mile before the trail starts of narrow and become more rocky.

A more narrow, rocky trail segment

Clouds in the sky, snow on the ground. Can you tell the difference?

There is not much to tell about this trail other than it winds over hill and dale, passes through occasional groves of Cottonwoods or Ponderosa Pine, but is otherwise in the open. This exposure felt great on a cold, but sunny day in winter but would feel like Hell's Half Acre in August. The scaly ones would be out then too, looking to snag an ankle snack.

We got back to the trailhead just in time. The sun had set and the temperatures dropped 20 degrees.

For other posts of trails in this area, check out my description of the Homestead/Mesa Loop. The pictures for this post were taken with a cell phone camera. Amazing eh?

NCAR/Mesa Trail to Kohler Mesa

2011-12-31T13:19:00.000-07:00

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 5,120ft - 6,250ft
Elevation Gain: 1,237 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 26 November 2011
Dogs: Off leash in designated area with Boulder green tag
Bathroom at trailhead: Inside NCAR

A hike from NCAR to the Mesa Trail and beyond takes you along the scenic Flatirons, which are majestic even on a cold day in November.

In Colorado, it is always best to hike after a big feed and Thanksgiving 2011 was no exception. Braving temperatures in the 20's, we headed to Boulder since the dogs needed the exercise as much as we did and Boulder is the only Metro area that allows dogs off leash. The others, Boulder County and Jefferson County, all require dogs on leash. That might work for a lazy Labrador or your mother's Yorkie, but not for a German Short-haired Pointer, who can run 20 miles a day and still beg for more. This is something that communities that restrict dogs don't get. Fortunately, Boulder has more trails and more dogs per capita than most places in the U.S. It is just a matter of choosing a route and letting Fido run free.

The first 0.2 miles of trail is an interpretive trail behind NCAR.

The towering 3rd Flatiron from the trail behind NCAR.

For this day's adventure we decided to start from NCAR because the parking lot is huge, around 1500 employees work there during the week. Other trailheads in the area have room for only 20 cars or so and so fill up by 8am on weekends.

Heading down the south side of the NCAR Mesa

Turn right at this junction and it will connect to the Mesa Trail going north

We started out on the NCAR trail, which begins to the north of the building. It follows an interpretive trail for 0.2 miles before heading down the south side of the hill, down a gully and up a steep slope to the large green water tower that supplies NCAR before dropping yet again down to the Mesa Trail. I used to love to make new employees tell us their life story on this trail because it could steal your breath away if you do it fast enough or if you have just moved to Boulder from sea level.

Heading to the gully

Crossing the gully. Snow and ice can collect here all winter

From this point we followed the Mesa Trail through another gully to the junction of the Kohler Mesa Trail at 1.4 miles. It is a short 1 mile across Kohler Mesa to the NOAA trailers and a picnic table on the right. From this vantage you are gazing across the plains. The NOAA complex is just below with the University of Colorado nearby. This day was hazy, but in the fall, all the trees in the city make for a colorful tableau.

Heading up the north side of the gully

Further along the Mesa Trail

On the return trip we tried something different by descending Kohler Mesa on a short spur trail leading to the Skunk Canyon Trail, which parallels Kohler Mesa at the bottom of Skunk Canyon. Head west on this trail and it will eventually climb back up to the Mesa Trail.

Ponderosa Country

On the eastern end of Kohler Mesa

It was fun to do this route again because I used to hike behind NCAR several days a week, it was one of the major benefits of working there. The flatirons are an amazing rock formation and the Mesa Trail parallels them for 6 miles. From that backbone are numerous spur trails sticking out like ribs on a dinosaurs skeleton. This route follows three ribs (the NCAR Trail, Kohler Mesa Trail, and Skunk Canyon Trail) and a span of spine (the Mesa Trail) in an out and back formation. Create your own combo anywhere in the trail system and you are sure to enjoy yourself. One other combo I have blogged is the Homestead/Mesa Loop, which starts at the south Mesa Trail Trailhead.

The trailers that used to control the NOAA antenna farm.

Merry Christmas from McCullough Gulch

2011-12-26T19:55:00.000-07:00

The view to the east from the end of the McCullough Gulch Snowshoe. This short trip was perfect for Christmas Day.

Christmas Day 2011 was a record breaking day in Summit County. The high temperature was close to 40° and much of the area was bare dirt. A gal in the know told us that Fairplay and Hooiser Pass to the south had plenty of snow, so we decided to try McCullough Gulch just south of the Breckenridge Ski Resort. It was lovely. I have not done this trail since 2006 and the views of Quandary Peak were as impressive as ever. Had a few snowmobilers not come racing down down the other side of the valley, we might have stripped naked and sun bathed, it was that warm. For a full snowshoe description check out my earlier post.

Washington: Around the Lake Trail

2011-12-17T06:00:00.000-07:00

Distance: 2 mile loop
Elevation: 422 ft
Elevation Gain: 300 ft (a guess)

View of Tradition Lake in the Tiger Mountain State Forest

After attempting to climb West Tiger 3 in the Tiger Mountain State Forest I managed to convince my mother that getting out into Nature would be a great thing and that there was a handicapped accessible trail where we had been. The fact that the rain had stopped gave her no excuse so off we went again to Exit 20 (off I-90) and the Tradition Plateau Trailhead in the Tiger Mountain State Forest.

Starting out on the Bus Trail

Large Cedar Trees dominate the lower portion of Tiger Mountain

I did not mention this before, but Tiger Mountain, along with Cougar Mountain, and Squawk Mountain are the remnants of an ancient mountain range. They are eroded, were forested several times over the last few centuries, and now form a series of parks in the Issaquah area.

Most of the Around the Lake Trail is accessible

These ferns were large enough to hide the national debt!

The lower portion of the Tradition Plateau Trailhead contains a warren of trails, not all marked with signs. We started out briefly on the Bus Trail and then switched to the Around the Lake Trail, which is both accessible and marked with periodic self-guided nature plaques. My parents love such things and we stopped at each one to learn something new about the area.

Given the dampness of the area, it is not surprising that mushrooms we sprouting from every log.

Looking up into the canopy

At one point, the trail (or another unmarked trail) veered sharply to the left and started descending over rocks and roots. Mother was game, however, and we continued this way until it looped back towards the lake again. Eventually, we reached the Puget Power Trail, which is really a road. This took us back to the parking lot.

Shelf Fungus and Slime Mold grow on a cut log

Nice sitting area

Throughout, mother asked me to photograph the numerous forms of Fungi we found and we had fun discussing the ecology of the area. This short hike was the highlight of the trip for her. As my parents age, I have come to appreciate accessible trails that allow older folks to still get out and enjoy Nature. The last time they came to visit me in Colorado I took them to Sprague Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park and Pella Crossing near Longmont. Both are wonderful trails. I don't know what the gig was with the Around the Lake Trail, but it would be great if they made it accessible all the way around.

You can't actually get to the lake, but you can glimpse it through the trees.

Walking along the Puget Power Trail. The parking lot is just ahead.

Washington Vacation: West Tiger #3

2011-12-10T15:12:00.001-07:00

Distance: 5 miles round trip
Elevation: 422 ft - 2,522 ft (summit of West Tiger)
Elevation Gain: 2,100 ft
Bathrooms at the trailhead: Yes
Dogs: Leash only

A walk through the Tiger Mountain State Forest
is a unique treat for a Coloradoan

Tiger Mountain is a Washington State Forest near the town of Issaquah. It is covered with trees and just happened to be a few miles from our vacation house. One day after a nice run in the rain I was approaching the couch for a snooze when my significant other announced that they needed some exercise and could we please go for a hike. It took some effort to drag my eyelids open, let alone get in the car but the promise of only easy stroll through the trees, just something to move a little, got me throwing on my hiking gear.

We decided to head for a 4-mile loop off of I-90 (exit 20), since there was a map to the area in our house. Once you exit the freeway, the trailhead is a short distance up a dirt road on the south side of the highway.

When we arrived there were only two cars in the parking lot. Given this area's reputation for over crowding, we were quite surprised. Perhaps the steady down pour was deterring the hardy locals or perhaps [hee hee] they were all working. There were signs all over saying you needed a Discovery Pass to park there. There were no kiosks to purchase any parking so I decided to ask two gals who suddenly appeared from the woods what this Discovery thing was. They told me it was a new thing that Washington was instigating and that you had to buy the pass at select stores in town but that no one was getting thrown in jail just yet for not having one. They told that a week long pass was almost as much as a yearly pass. Washington is definitely targeting tourists there.

Since these gals seemed to be in the know, I also asked them what the best trail in the park was. They said that Tiger Mountain #3 would take us to the summit but that it was over 2,000 feet elevation gain. 2,000 feet in Colorado is a borderline death march but these gals were smiling and happy so I really thought I had misheard them. Turns out I had not. Armed with this info, and daring the parking patrol to nab us, we set out to see what Tiger Mountain was like.

The signage in the park was decent. Some signs were missing, however and there were a few unmarked trails.

The park is shrouded in a temperate rain forest with ferns, mosses, and huge trees dripping with moisture. We had no idea how to dress for this climate and did not do a very good job of it. When standing still the damp seeped into our bones and we were glad for our down coats, but the moment we started moving, the humidity created a force field around our bodies, locking in moisture. I felt like I was swimming. Water congealed on every part of my body and poured off my head and into my eyes. None of this was caused by the rain. That was completely blocked by the canopy above. This was sheer sweat and condensation. I would have been more comfortable hiking naked but they have draconian rules about that in Washington State, so I plodded upwards with my clothes clinging to my body.

The lower part of the trail is hardwoods and underbrush.

We reached the intersection of the "easy hike" we were supposed to do when my under-exercised hiking buddy exclaimed that the hike was too easy and we should just continue ascending on Tiger Mountain #3 to get as much exercise as possible. Since we had brought along only one small water bottle and a Cliff Bar I was not too happy about this change in plans but I did agree that the going had been rather easy and doing more would help work off mother's pot roast. So up we went. I tried to be a trooper not to whine that I had already run 4 miles that morning and really did not need summit this hill we were on, but occasional mumblings of hogies, scones, and leftover lasagna did periodically passed my lips. These subtle hints were ignored.

As we headed up the trail, we heard the sound of Paul Bunyon thudding through the forest. Behold a minute later we came across these four trees that had all fallen across the trail. Talk about a close call. Was this a hint that we needed to go back and get our Discovery Pass?

Tiger Mountain #3 continues up in a long series of switch backs on a very wide and rarely rocky trail. It was dark, damp, and the view was unchanging...trees, ferns, trees, ferns. Still for someone use to tundra and mountain views this was actually really cool. It was so different from what I am used to that I did not notice the passing of the miles. At 2 miles we came to a sign that indicated the view point was still 0.6 miles ahead. Hunger overcame me at this point and a tussle ensued over who's half of the Cliff Bar was the largest. I shoved my half in my mouth in one giant bite and growled. Was it really worth continuing upwards when we knew the summit was shrouded in the clouds? I pulled out the GPS and my eyes bulged. We had climbed over 2,000 feet. Elevation really does make a difference folks. We barely felt it. Despite the glob of Cliff Bar congealing in my mouth I was still plagued by visions of pot roast so I pointed back down the trail and put on a sad puppy look. Blessedly, my buddy agreed and we cruised back down.

The upper portion of the trail is shrouded in dense Douglas Firs

Tiger Mountain is a popular trail and if you are visiting Seattle or the Issaquah Alps region, it is certainly worth checking out.

Close up of a fern

Washington: Snoqualmie Falls

2011-11-26T07:47:00.001-07:00

Snoqualmie Falls from the lower viewing
platform. A local energy company is
building a hydroelectric plant on the site,
so the trails to the bottom are closed and cranes
marred the landscape.

The second day of our Washington vacation we went to Snoqualmie Falls. This was very close to Issaquah where we were staying and would certainly be within day tripping distance from Seattle.

The falls themselves were quite impressive but this was not a wilderness experience. Getting a parking spot in the long, ergonomically incorrect parking lot took fortitude, the ability to curse like a sailor, and the willingness to run over aged grand parents from three continents.

There are multiple view locations that provide slightly different angles to the falls. They can be reached via stairs or long handicapped ramps, which was great from my aged mother who could not do stairs. Each of these platforms was seething with humanity. The aged grandparents I almost killed in the parking lot had brought along their entire extended families from India, Latin America, and China and they were not about to give up their spot on the railings until Uncle Beezlebub had taken every possible combination of photos of the smiling brood. I think our mistake was visiting the falls on a weekend and a sunny one to boot.

Next to the falls is the Salish Inn, which a friend had reported had a wonderful Sunday brunch. We could not get anywhere near the two restaurants and so bolted out of there back to our rain forest oasis as quickly as possible. Still, the falls are worth seeing, just go mid-week and avoid the hordes.

The view from the upper platform

Washington: Issaquah Rain Forest

2011-11-19T06:00:00.000-07:00

In October I met my parents in Washington for a week long vacation. We stayed near Issaquah in an area so dripping with moisture and so overgrown with vegetation, that I can't call it anything other than a temperate rain forest. The house we rented backed up to the West Tiger Mountain State Forest and was very secluded. I was enamored over all the critters I found just in the yard.

The back of the house looked out onto this lovely river that surged after several days of rain.

The back deck and thick trees

I was the only one willing to cross the wooden bridge to the other side.

View of the river from the bridge

Mushrooms in the grass

Close up of a fern

Banana Slug. This specimen is not the bright yellow I am used to seeing in the slugs around Santa Cruz, CA.

Garden Spider. This one had a web right by the door, which cheered my spider fearing mother no end.

Where there is prey there are predators. This attractive beetle (Scaphinotus angusticollis), which we saw everywhere is called the Snail Killer. There were certainly plenty of snails to feed on!

Mt. Democrat

2011-11-11T08:23:00.001-07:00

Distance: 4 miles round trip
Elevation: 12,006 ft - 14,156 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,150 ft
Date Hiked: 1 September 2011
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at Trailhead: Yes

View (looking north) from the summit of Mt. Democrat

Mt. Democrat is an easy 14er within striking range of the Denver Metro Area and is therefore rather popular. I have long ago given up climbing 14ers on the weekends for this reason. Even during the week, one is hardly alone.

The parking area. The saddle and face are directly ahead.

Starting out, the lake is just ahead

The easiest part of the route is across the valley on a relatively soft trail.

The route gets rockier as you start to head up.

Looking back down on the lake

The trailhead to Mt. Democrat begins south of the Breckenridge Ski Resort in the town of Alma. In the middle of the town, look for the road and small brown sign pointing towards Kite Lake. It is 6 miles up a dirt road that is usually passable by a passenger car to the lake. The forest service runs the campground, bathrooms, and parking lot. There is a $3 fee to park there. If such conveniences are above you, park down the road a bit where it is free.

Now we are really into the rocks.


*Heading towards the saddle*

Looking back down the valley

Looking up at the dots on the saddle

Democrat, Lincoln, and Bross have been are still are heavily mined. That is one reason that Bross is still closed. A mine shaft and sign occupy the saddle.

Democrat can be hiked by itself or part of the triad of Democrat, Lincoln, and Bross. At the time I did the hike, Bross was still closed to the public, although that did not stop many. Doing all three in one day is certainly doable, legal issues aside, and is primarily weather and time dependent. In my case, my two hiking companions came up from Denver and got stuck in traffic caused by an overturned semi-truck. We got too late a start to do more than Democrat.

There is a small "bump" before you start really ascending the face. You can see the hordes going up and coming down.


Depending upon how you scramble over the "bump", you can look straight down into the opposite valley. That is actually Wheeler Lake in the distance. There are some great views of Mt. Democrat from that trail.

*The "bump"* *Looking across to the route up Mt. Lincoln (14,286 ft). That is actually Mt. Cameron (14, 238 ft) , a 14er that does not count. Mt. Lincoln is out of view.*

The face you see as you start to climb is not the face of Democrat. The actual summit is a small hump further up the ridge to the west. This becomes readily apparent when you reach the top of the face only to see folks heading off into the distance.

Heading up the face

Reach the top of the face, the summit is in the distance

Getting to the saddle between Lincoln and Democrat is the hardest part of the hike. That is why it is such a bummer NOT to do both in one day.

It is an easy walk to the summit from this point.

The summit

The summit view looking down the north valley

Looking down on the Climax Mine from the summit. I have driven that highway many times and never knew I was looking up at Mt. Democrat.

Many of the folks that do Democrat, Lincoln, and Bross do so as a loop and come down Bross to Kite Lake. Every report I have read about this indicates that sliding down Bross is not an experience most people care to repeat.

Argentine Pass

2011-10-02T09:31:00.000-06:00

Distance: 5.2 miles round trip
Elevation: 11,100 ft - 13,200 ft
Elevation Gain: 2,100 ft
Date Hiked: 3 September, 2011
Bathroom at Trailhead: No
Dogs: Yes

The precipitous trail to Argentine Pass

Argentine Pass is a destination most reach by driving their 4x4 or ATV up from Waldorf (out of Georgetown) . The hiker can reach it, however, by hiking up the arduous goat track along the slope of Argentine Peak. I have wanted to do this hike for years, and this year I got my chance.

Driving into scenic Horseshoe Basin at the end of Peru Creek

Walking by the ruins of the Shoebasin Mine

The trailhead for Argentine Pass is located at the end of Peru Creek Road near Montezuma in Summit County. While this road is passable for passenger cars, at least to the trailhead for Chihuahua Gulch, it becomes increasingly rough thereafter so don't try this in your passenger van. It is only 4.6 miles in, but when you are traveling 5 miles an hour, it takes a while.

Walking up the road

White coated rocks. The British geologists we met speculated it was due to Kaolinite Clay coating the rocks.

At the end of the road is a large parking lot on the left. Don't go beyond this. The road drifts behind a hill just past this lot and there is a gate blocking further progress that you can't see until you make the bend.

The unmarked sign indicating the start of the trail. The pass itself is visible to the left.

The route follows the hillside to the left

The trail itself begins at a small unmarked sign in the willows 0.4 miles up this road. I ran into a volunteer ranger coming down who said it took her an hour to find this spot. We did not have this difficulty but kept wondering where it was as we slowly slogged up the very rocky road. Just keep going, you'll know it when you see it.

The first bend is just ahead. Decatur Mountain is to the right.

Stunning views back down Peru Creek Valley

After the initial turn, the trail crosses the valley through willows taller than I was. It begins to climb quickly on the other side and will do so unrelentingly until you reach the pass.

The initial part of the route. There are still plants on the slope. Grays Peak is to the left.

Looking down on the route through the willows

Argentine Pass Trail has just one switchback and you reach this around 1 mile. The turn here was so rocky, it looked like a stream bed, which would make the route an ankle twisting nightmare. Fortunately, it is not. At the bend, you are already above treeline and a pleasant looking ridgeline is just ahead. It looks trivial to climb Decatur Mountain to the right and someday I hope to return and do just that.

The route becomes more barren, where is the pass?

Clouds loom where only the thistle bloom. From this point we were still several crenelations away from the pass.

The views looking back down Peru Creek Valley are stunning from this point and if you are looking for a shorter outing, you could turn around right at the bend and call it a day. If you continue on, it is another 1.6 miles to the pass. Note, the guidebooks all say it is 2 miles to the pass, but add on the distance from the parking lot to the trailhead and another 0.2 miles of navigation error and my GPS said the distance was 2.6 miles one way.

Traversing a wide area. On the very narrow spots, I did not take pictures. I needed both hands at the ready in case I slipped.

At last the pass comes into view

The terrain on this part of the route is unchanging. It is rocky, very narrow in places, and devoid of vegetation accept for the mysterious Frosty Ball Thistle. You can't really see your destination from the trail because it continually weaves in and out of drainages that hug the mountain side and the ridgeline in the distance all looks the same. This trip became an exercise in "are we there yet" as we took turns on point hoping the next bend in the trail would show us the pass.

Argentine Peak from the pass

Grays Peak (left) and Torrey Peak (just to the right of Grays) from the pass

The views from the route are amazing, so don't let the tedious nature of the trail itself deter you. The entire time you are looking down into a bowl bordered on the north by Grays Peak (14,270 ft) and Ruby Mountain (13,228ft). To the east is Mt. Edwards (13,850 ft) and of course Argentine Peak (13,738 ft) is several hundred feet above on the right.

Looking south at Mt. Wilcox (13.408 ft) from the pass. Silver Dollar and Murray Lakes are on the other side.

Reaching the pass is somewhat anticlimactic. I have heard that Waldorf on the other side is stunning, but the slope is so gradual, you can't really see much from the pass itself. I had hoped to climb Mt. Argentine from the pass, but we did not get started on the trail until after 1pm and pressed upwards despite the looming black clouds that always seem to shroud this area. Going even higher was out of the question.

Back down now, admiring an old cabin in the meadow across from the parking lot

It is the history of this trail that makes it worth doing, however. Initially a stagecoach route and later a railroad, there are places where the trail is still relatively wide and flat. Other places are so narrow a Pika would have trouble staying level. Every time I looked down I could not help but picture Grandma Moses bouncing along on those wagon wheels as the edge came in and out of view. I have heard stories of pack animals being blown off the ridge and I could well believe it. The relentless snows in this area made this road unprofitable and it was eventually abandoned. The effort folks went to back then to traverse the Continental Divide just amaze me. And I bitch when I have to take Loveland Pass because the Eisenhower Tunnel is closed!

Late 1800's image of Argentine Pass by Chamberlain, W. G. (William Gunnison) -- Photographer [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons.

Hiking to Argentine Pass is not an easy trail. I had climbed Mt. Democrat two days before and my quads were wondering what on earth I was doing. Knowing the route now, I might return to climb Mt. Edwards or Argentine Peak, but it won't be on the top of my list. Instead, I would rather continue up the road to several shelf lakes that nestle at the base of Grays and Ruby. We ran into some Brits on the trail who have been in the area many times and have climbed Grays from that route. They were complaining about the altitude but once they told me that story, I knew their postering was just for show.

Eldorado Canyon

2011-09-24T06:00:00.000-06:00

Distance: 7 miles round trip to Walker Ranch, 6 miles round trip to plateau before the drop off
Elevation: 5,950 ft - 7,200 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,250 ft (net). Cumulative is much more if you go down the back side to Walker Ranch
Date Hiked: 22 July 2011
Bathroom at the Trailhead: Yes
Dogs: On leash only, State Park

Views of the foothills from the Eldorado Canyon Trail

The Eldorado Canyon Trail in Eldorado Canyon State Park is a pleasant outing particularly in the the spring and fall. Since the trail is mostly south facing, it can also remain open when other trails, like Rattlesnake Gulch across the valley are coated in ice.

The first mile of the route climbs relentlessly

Looking at two of the crenelations that the trail climbs around and over. The peaks of the Continental Divide are barely visible in the distance.

The route follows the crenelations of a long hillside that heads deep into Eldorado Canyon and eventually intersects with Walker Ranch west of Boulder. Along the way, the route weaves in and out of Ponerosa and Lodgepole Pines, Douglas Fir, and Mountain Mahogany. I did this hike in July and Bee Balm dotted the slopes. I did see occasional spots of Poison Ivy so don't go frolicking in the shrubbery no matter how appealing.

A trail segment that travels over rocks

A trail segment on an open sunny slope

I had planned to go all the way until the trail intersected with the Walker Loop but found that at 3 miles, the trail heads straight down to the valley floor. I decided not to drop down only to turn around and race back up. At this point in the route, there is a nice pleateau where one can sit, lounge and admire the views across the valley.

Looking back out the canyon to the eastern plains from my turn around point at 3 miles

The scare on the distant hillside is the train tracks. I have climbed up to that point from the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail.

The rocks that make Eldorado Canyon State Park a Mecca for rock climbers are not really visible from this trail but that is not a bad thing. While there were tons of families at the early part of the trail, once I passed the first half mile they dropped off quickly. The trail is steep in the beginning and most casual walkers turn around quickly. This meant that I ran into only one other couple and some mountain bikers on the way. If you like solitude this might be a better option than the crowed Mesa Trail, which is free and therefore attracts more people. A State Park's Pass will buy you this option year round.

Scenic Drive: Co 129 to Seedhouse Rd

2011-09-17T07:57:00.000-06:00

The Mount Zirkel Wilderness Area lies at the end of Seedhouse Rd north of Steamboat Springs

There are a lot of scenic drives in Colorado, but I particularly like taking Co 129 north out of Steamboat Springs to Seedhouse Rd. On this route you will pass bucolic ranch land, lazy rivers bordered by colorful cottonwoods, some seriously attractive homes and then end up in the Mount Zirkle Wilderness Area. The day we took this drive, we were hoping to hike but Autumn had arrived and it was cold and rainy. We settled for exploring the nooks and crannies of route itself which worked out well. These are things you miss when racing to a trailhead.

The Elk River parallels Co 129 and in several places bridges cross it for pleasant views.

Another view of the Elk River

Once you turn on Seedhouse Rd, you are still following the Elk River, but the further one progresses up the road the less domesticated it feels.

Some fall color viewed from the side of the road

I love twisty roads bordered by color

The Elk River is much wilder at this point

This part of the river interested me because of the gouges carved in the rocks by the flow.

Angus cattle graze in one of the many meadows along CO 129. The Elk River is further from the road now but you can tell where it is by the line of Cottonwood trees.

Hope Pass

2011-09-10T06:00:00.000-06:00

Distance: 11 miles round trip (starting from Perry Peak Campground)
Elevation: 9,300 ft - 12,600 ft
Elevation Gain: 3181 ft
Date Hiked: 19 August, 2011
Dogs: Off leash

The majestic view from Hope Pass (12,600 ft)

A hike to Hope Pass near Twin Lakes is a long and arduous journey to one of the most majestic views in Colorado. I cheated on this hike, truth be told, because I stayed over several nights below the pass, assisting the Hopeless Aid Station and working the Leadville 100 Ultra Marathon. As you hike this trail just remember there are folks who run up, over, down the other side and back up as part of a much longer and harder journey. Makes you feel a little substandard doesn't it?


Starting out at the Perry Peak Campground

Passing a nice Beaver pond with lodge

Looking down into Lake Creek

For the past several years, the normal trailhead for Hope Pass has been closed because the bridge over Lake Creek was washed away. The new bridge is sitting in the sands near Twin Lakes so perhaps someday soon they'll get it in place.

Junction between Upper Twin Lake (left) and the Willis drainages (right)

Initial segment in Lodgepoles and rocks

Heading into the Aspens

We had a train of fully loaded llamas, carrying tents, food, oxygen etc up to the aid station, so we had to start our journey at the Perry Peak campground. This route cuts through a short 0.5 mile swampy section of trail before joining the real route and makes my description longer than published. The first real milestone is the trail junction between the Willis drainages and a trail back to Upper Twin Lake at 0.68 miles.

Looking down into the Aspens

Crossing the bridge at 1.7 miles

Willis Creek

From this point, the route travels across a broad slope filled with young Aspens. The trail is narrow, steep and rocky and over the 20 years that folks have been using llamas to gear up the aid station, more than one has tumbled off the side. For people though, the trail is perfectly fine unless of course you are as wide a fully loaded llama, in which case you should consider a different form of exercise.

Heading up the steep segment to the left of the creek. The candy cane tape on the shrub marks the route for the runners.

Junction between the Little and Big Willis routes

Past the switchbacks, the trail begins to level out

After a continuous uphill slog, the route intersects, at 1.36 miles, a small drainage ditch, probably used in mining. This short flat segment is a nice break, for both llamas and humans. At this point we had climbed 528 ft.

Passing a relatively intact cabin

The grave in llama rest meadow

Before breaking out of treeline, the route gets wetter, weaving back and forth across the creek and through willows.

At 1.7 miles, we reached the bridge over Little Willis Creek and transitioned into a damp, primeval-feeling mixed Spruce/Fir biome. Another trail, Interlaken comes in from the left to join the route just past the bridge. This is where the runners come in as well.

Finally breaking out of the trees

Mt. Hope

The cook and medical tents. More will go up the next day.

After watering the llamas, we turned right and headed straight up the hill in another unrelentless climb. At 2.2 miles is the split between the Little and Big Willis drainages. Hope Pass is to the left up the Little Willis drainage. At 2.6 miles begins a series of 4 lengthly switchbacks. At the top of this segment, the trail flattens out appreciably. I could practically hear the llamas give a sigh of relief.

Sunrise on Mt. Hope the next day. Llamas graze in the meadow.

Starting up the final pitch to Hope Pass

From this point on the trail angles slightly upwards through a series of open meadows. We stopped at one at 3.4 miles to let the llamas rest some more. I don't think their wranglers were too upset about this either. There is a large avalanche chute on the left of the is meadow and an interesting grave on the right. Finally, at 4.8 miles we reached the tents of the aid station at roughly 12,000 ft. Fade to black...

A series of switchbacks head up the slope

Mt. Hope

The next morning, we continued our route to the Pass. The aid station is located right at treeline on the broad slope overlooping Little Willis Lake. Mt. Hope, one of the highest 13ers in the state dominates the view. It was a quick 0.75 miles and 600 feet elevation gain to the pass itself. While steep, the views down the valley are stunning, so there are plenty of excuses to stop, breath, and admire the scenery.

Looking back down on Little Willis Lake and Leadville in the distance

Further up on the pass

From the pass at 12,600 ft, the hiker gazes deep into the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness. The number of towering 14ers makes this view majestic indeed. From left to right is Mt. Oxford (14,153 ft), Mt. Belford (14,197 ft), Missouri Mountain (14,067 ft), and Huron Peak (14,003 ft). Mt. Hope is to the right and Mt. Quail to the left on the pass itself.

The pass itself

Heading up the slope of Mt. Quail

I decided to try and climb Mt. Quail, the 13er to the left of the pass. There was no trail, so I left my pack below and just took my camera and started bushwhacking up the slope. It was slow going with my camera dangling below my chest as I used both hands and feet to pull myself upwards. I did intersect with a trail and followed that for a bit until it ran into a area of loose gravel and tallus. At this point, I knew getting down was going to be a butt slide, so I decided not to go any further. If I do this again next year, I'll have a better idea of the route.

Looking down on the pass from a couple of hundred feet up Mt. Quail

Looking into the Collegiates from the slope of Mt. Quail

My turn around point on Quail. The summit is up that ridge and to the right.

A journey to Hope Pass is a treat to a little visited area of the state. While a leg buster, you can at least feel grateful that you are not running 100 miles and are only hiking 11. The view of Mt. Hope along makes this journey worth it in my book. Being there really made me feel like I was in the mountains.

Moose

2011-09-07T05:00:00.000-06:00

A young bull Moose (Alces alces) lounges in the shade on a hot day in Summit County

This creature, the Moose, is one of the meanest, most unpredictable, foul-tempered beasts you are ever likely to encounter in Colorado and I descided to stalk it over several soggy days, hoping to finally bag a shot of its malevolent personality. Don't try this at home children, I had a telephoto lens!

This tale, reminiscent of Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom, began when several people in my condo complex gloated that they had not only seen the Moose in our neighborhood but actually had a close encounter of the scary kind in the large expanse of forest between us and I-70. The most ignomious part of this is that it actually crossed the road right in front of our car but we couldn't see it because of the back up in traffic. Our neighbors never let us live that one down.

So what's so scary about a Moose? Well besides their already mentioned pleasing personality, they are big, as in really big. Our friends were walking their two dogs in the forest when they passed a small Aspen Grove. At once this large, ominous shape began to rise vertically out of the grasses and kept on rising. The dogs freaked, the woman screamed, and general bladder control was threatened. Fortunately, these startled humans and canines took appropriate action... they ran for their lives. Another friend of a friend recently did the opposite. She cowered in a ditch and a Moose nearly pummeled her to death. So children, while you fight off a Bear, Mountain Lion, and that person who just took the last parking spot at Copper Mountain, remember....run from a Moose. They don't have a prey instinct, unlike the skier at Copper.

So, hearing these tales I was bound and determined to find this Moose. I set out at 7 pm one evening and started trudging off trail through Willows, clear cuts, and generally swampy areas. I was having no luck at all until I noticed a large Aspen with monster-sized chunks of bark scrapped away. I immediately froze in my tracks and started creeping about very carefully. It did not take me long to find the large areas of grass that had been flattened like crop circles in the UK. The hairs on the back of my neck rose. Was I alone in the thick grass? It seemed I was, so feeling rather like a voyeur, I tiptoed around the Moose's haunt, poking at scat, following trails, and generally being intrusive. At least now I had my target zone. Every evening I went back with no luck. It was on my last day, and the middle of the day when at last I saw him. I was walking the dogs of course and was totally unprepared. I ran them quickly back home, grabbed my camera and the rest is history.

This young Moose was easily as tall as I. A typical Moose is 6-7 ft at the shoulder. Note the large flap of skin called a "bell" hanging from its neck. Along with the distinctive antlers, this is another great identifying feature.

While other parts of North America, Alaska in particular, have more Moose than they know what to do with, they are less common in Colorado. Introuced three decades ago, their population has been growing. Walden is known for a large Moose population as well as the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park. Their range is expanding, however so more and more people are finally getting a good look at this impressive animal.

The largest member of the deer family and the largest antlered animal in the world, the Moose habitually lives in cold, boreal forests eating terrestrial and aquatic vegetation, particularly Willows. They are most often spotted in small ponds head down in the water. The largest sub-species exist in Alaska, while the smallest in Colorado and neighboring states.

A male's antlers are strickly a breeding enhancer. They can grow to up to 4.5 feet across, and without their velvet, are impressive indeed. Once the rut is over, however, off they go. Maybe I'll find this male's set somewhere out in the Willows.

Antlers are covered in velvet, which is rich in blood. This helps protect and feed the antlers as they grow. I wonder how large this set will get by the time of the rut in late September and October?

My personal odyssey at an end, I look forward to more Moose encounters...from a safe distance of course.

Lilly Pad Lake via Meadow Creek

2011-09-03T07:44:00.000-06:00

Distance: 3 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,155 ft - 9,915 ft
Elevation Gain: 760 ft
Date Hiked: 4 August, 2011
Dogs: Off leash until the Eagles Nest Wilderness

Lilly Pad Lake with Buffalo Mountain in the background

This short hike near Frisco, CO is popular with the locals and their kids and also with visitors. Both groups enjoy the varied microclimates, views of Lake Dillon, and two small lakes, one of which is fact still covered with Lilly Pads.

The trailhead

Starting out on the Meadow Creek Trail, which is very rocky.

The junction at 0.6 miles

There are two ways to get to Lilly Pad Lake. The first is via Ryan Gulch Road. This route is longer and flatter and I have only done it as a snowshoe. The second is via the Meadow Creek Trailhead, which is found down a dirt road paralleling I-70 from the first Frisco exit (heading west).

Heading into the Lodgepole forest

A pile of downed Lodgepoles

I did this hike mid-day as a general work out and it suited perfectly. The trail is steep enough that you can really get your heart rate pumping but short enough to fit into an hour if you hustle.

Heading into the Fir forest

Meadow Creek from the bridge

The trail starts out on the Meadow Creek Trail, which goes toward Eccles Pass, and begins to climb sharply over rough rocks. At 0.6 miles the trail splits with the route going to Lilly Pad heading off to the right. From this point on the path is much easier on the paws.

Crossing an open Sagebrush meadow

View of Mt. Guyot from a long meadow

What I found particularly interesting about this trail is that it passes through an Aspen Forest, a mostly dying Lodgepole Forest, open Sagebrush meadows, and a mixed Fir forest. On one trail you can experience the 4 major biomes of Colorado, all within the span of 1.5 miles. Toss in a few lovely views of Lake Dillon and you have a very nice outing indeed.

View of Lake Dillon

Lilly Pad Lake itself is not a pleasant as it used to be. 12 years ago it was covered in Lilly Pads, which of course gave it its name. Those are gone now, but there is a small pond just north of the lake that has them, so be sure to go far enough or you'll miss out. Most of the Lodepoles around the lake are dead, which looks less funeral in winter. The bottom line is that this trail is really for the journey and not the destination.

Clouds reflected in Lilly Pad Lake

Lilly Pads on the small pond next to Lilly Pad Lake

I constantly overhear waitress recommend this trail to visitors who want a short but scenic hike. I can not disagree. To get your feet wet in Colorado or take an afternoon stroll, Lilly Pad Lake is a great choice.

North Tenmile Creek

2011-08-27T06:00:00.002-06:00

Distance: 7 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,092 ft - 10,192 ft
Elevation Gain: 1,100 ft
Date Hiked: 30 July, 2011
Bathroom at trailhead: No, but one just under the bridge going into Frisco itself.
Dogs: Off leash until the wilderness boundary (two miles)

Open meadow in the upper portion of North Ten Mile Creek

Last winter, I snowshoed North Tenmile Creek. What a difference a few months make! This might have been a totally different planet from the one I visited before. North Tenmile Creek Trail in the summer is easy to navigate (after the first steep mile), pops in and out of meadows filled with wildflowers, and contains humans lounging by the creek. That was definitely something we did not see when it was 10 below zero. Go figure.


Trailhead for North Tenmile Creek

The route briefly follows a paved road.

The parking lot for North Tenmile Creek is located at the second Frisco exit (going west). Since it is literally part of the exit itself, it is hard to miss. Popular with the locals, it seems to be always full.

Someone painted an obvious blue sign on the ground to ensure hikers find the route.

The route starts out briefly on a paved road and then after a few tenths of a miles leaves the road (there was an obvious sign) and heads upwards on a very rough and rocky dirt road. The first 0.93 miles is a lung-busting slog, but after that the trail levels out into a gradual ascent. Fortunately, the creek itself and a wide rocky beach comes into view at this transition point, so you have an excuse to stop and breath. I took a moment to dunk my head and my bandana in the refreshing water. Note that there are spur trails going off to the left. Stay right unless you want to detour to the creek itself.

Hikers lounge on the rocks at 0.93 miles

This place was a frozen hell in the winter.

From this point on the trail becomes wider, more even and soft, and wanders through mostly dying Lodgepole forest. There are a few meadows between here and the wilderness boundary (at 2 miles), but the trail is (on a hot day) mostly in the shade.

Walking along the more level trail and dying Lodgpole forest

Every meadow was filled with wildflowers.

Since I had only made to the wilderness boundary on my snowshoe I purposefully pressed on to see what the rest of the trail looked like. I was quite surprised how different the wilderness portion of the trail was. It is far more narrow, and weaves up, down, and all around trees, roots, and slippery slopes. There was at least 12 separate water crossings, which earlier in the season would have been an issue. As it was, only one large, debris-filled crossing was problematic. On the way back, I found an old crushed log bridge further up the slope that made the return trip easier but still a scramble. The forest also changes to be a more lush, not so dead, Fir forest.

Approaching the wilderness boundary

A rougher trail segment after crossing the boundary

There are more meadows in the 1.4 mile stretch between the wilderness boundary and the intersection with the Gore Range Trail. Like most of the trails I have hiked this summer, these open areas were filled with wildflowers. North Tenmile Creek seemed to have a plethora of Sego Lillies, which I have only seen in the foothills. I could not help but climb one such slope and take closeup photographs of the flowers with Uneva Peak in the background.

The roughest water crossing. It is wider and more slippery than this picture implies.

Sego Lillies and blue skies dominated the upper portion of the trail.

The intersection with the Gore Range Trail is somewhat anticlimactic. Deep in the valley, it is just a small single track going from left to right. There is not even a log to sit on at this junction. I did not linger, but quickly turned around and zipped back down the trail.

The non-descript intersection with the Gore Range Trail

I have added North Tenmile Creek to my list of after work doggie outings since it is both close and steep. We have to get our workout in after all. While the flowers in the wilderness area were nice, the trail was much more difficult to travel in that area, so on a routine trip I will probably just turn around at the boundary. If you are visitor looking for a trail in the area, I would choose Lilly Pad Lakes for North Tenmile Creek. The later wanders through pleasant Aspen groves and has some nice views of Lake Dillon plus a defined destination.

Killdeer

2011-08-24T06:00:00.000-06:00

The Killdeer (Charadrius vociferus) is a shorebird who, like many Californians, has found the sunny habitats of Colorado permanently appealing.

The first time I saw a Killdeer in Colorado I almost ran home to check my meds. Having grown up on the beach I knew where these birds belonged and it was not in a gravel field in the middle of State in the middle of the country. Alas, since that psychologically rending day, I have learned that shore birds, and the Killdeer in particular, are quite common in Colorado.

The Killdeer is a common plover that is immediately identifiable by the 3 black neck rings around its neck. While typically a shore bird, it can live far from water. This specimen was in large field of our local dog park. I caught it on film by accident. Even with a 500 mm lens, this bird was so far away and so skittish that I never got very close. That is why these photos are so grainy.

The hot gravel of the dog park where I saw this specimen would seem very uninviting, but this Killdeer obviously found it a great place for a nest.

The Killdeer is famous for its broken wing act, which they put on when anyone gets too close to their nest. By the time I was within 50 yards of this specimen it started flexing its wings, but never went into the full act before simply flying away.

Showing off or fanning its underside to beat the heat. I guess we will never know.

Mt. Royal

2011-08-20T06:00:00.001-06:00

Distance: 3.74 miles (saddle with large cairn), 4.2 miles (upper summit), 4.7 miles round trip (lower summit)
Elevation: 9,122 ft-10,502 ft (upper summit) - 10,385 ft (lower summit)
Elevation Gain: 1,380 ft (net), 1,652 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 4 July 2011
Dogs: Off leash
Bathrooms at the trailhead: port-o-let

The view of Lake Dillon and the Continental Divide from the lower summit on Mt. Royal

Mt. Royal is a wickedly steep hike to a small "bump" on the far northern extent of the Tenmile Range. Further up the trail is Mt. Victoria and further still is the summit of Peak 1 the first real summit in the Tenmile Range. The views from this Bristlecone Pine encrusted promontory are what make it so popular with the locals. I did this hike on the 4th of July when most of locals should have been watching the parade in Frisco. Instead, many of them were on the trail with me. I suspect that even mid-week, this trail will be popular.

Crossing the Blue River right before the bike path

The bike path looks empty. There were in fact many cyclists enjoying the holiday.

The route up Mt. Royal begins at the 2nd Frisco (going west). There is a relatively large parking area just over the bridge but this lot also serves the Breckenridge to Vail bike path, so plan accordingly.

The trailhead

Typical early trail segment

The first part of the route is totally flat and along the bike path itself. The official trailhead for Mt. Royal, at 0.43 miles, is very obvious. It contains a kiosk and the trail itself is visible heading up the hillside.

Looking back on Frisco and Buffalo Mountain beyond

The hillsides surrounding the trail were clogged with what I believe is Red Elderberry. The sickly sweet smell from all the flowers was actually overpowering.

After one mile and a relatively gentle ascent, the route reaches Masontown, the site of an old mining town wiped out by an avalanche in 1926. This is a destination in itself for those who want a shorter outing. While nothing spectacular itself, the route, particularly in the fall, is very pretty.

Only a few junks of metal and wood mark the location of Masontown.

Mt. Guyot and Mt. Baldy from an upper trail viewpoint

Beyond Masontown, the route begins to climb steeply in a zigzag pattern with most of the zigs being straight up. By the time the trail reaches the beginning of the final zag at 1.72 miles, the hiker has gained an additional 728 ft in only 0.72 miles for a total elevation gain thus far of 1,092 ft. Most of this occurs in one very steep, 60° segment. This portion of the trail is so steep that I found it very difficult to find a pace I could keep without having to stop frequently to breath. Not only that, but I found myself grabbing onto small Aspen trunks along the way to steady myself and to keep myself from sliding backwards. This is like the first mile on the route to Mt. Sniktau. At least at least on that trail the views were stunning, so you wanted to stop and look about. This route is in the trees so there is less of an incentive.

This upper trail segment is steeper than this picture makes out

The junction. Mt. Royal is to the right, Mt. Victoria is straight ahead.

At the top of this steep section, the trail splits with the route going up Mt. Victoria going straight ahead and the route going to Mt. Royal taking a sharp right. There is nothing to mark this junction but a small cairn in the dirt that would be hard to miss. It is better to just look for the split itself.

The saddle with its obvious cairn

When I reached this junction, I was walking with a local octogenarian who was easily beating me up the trail. He said the trail to Mt. Victoria was more of the same, a steep, slippery slope. Someone coming down mentioned there was still a lot of snow on the trail. This has been an amazing year for snowfall. Our hiking options thus far have been very limited.

The view looking west from the saddle. The gulch to the right is the route up North Tenmile Creek, which so far I have only done in winter.

Looking northwest along the ridge. The official summit is at the far point in the trees.

After the turn, the trail continues for only another 0.15 miles before reaching the saddle and the giant sized cairn that marks it. Many people stop there. On the far side of the cairn are nice views of I-70 and the cliffs surrounding it. To the east, one can see Grays and Torreys and bits of Lake Dillon. My new friend told that I should continue up the ridge to the official summit and then descend the other side and back up to a lower summit for the best views of the area. His advice was well worth taking.

The trunk of a dead Bristlecone, whose wood is very resistant to decay.

Another Bristlecone posing on the edge of the ridge

There are two trails that head up to the highest point. The left trail skirts the shear drop offs of the cliff face and wanders through a stand of twisted Bristlecone pines. The right hand trail is slightly further down the slope and by passes the summit. Take this trail on the way back.

Looking further west and mountains near Vail

The official summit is marked by the tall Fir tree more than the cairn, which is just barely visible in the shade.

The summit itself (at 2.09 miles) is just another small cairn hidden in the trees. Upon reaching it I had climbed 1,330 ft. The elevation in the map at the trailhead records this spot at 10,502 ft. I would not linger here too long although the view of Buffalo Mountain is nice from this vantage. Instead head down the hillside on the well worn trail. It descends a little over 200 ft to another saddle.

The start of the descent to the lower summit

Looking at I-70 from the saddle below the lower summit

At 2.32 miles is the lower summit, which is a large pile of rocks requiring judicious scrambling to reach the top. This is a little over 100 ft above the lower saddle. By the time I reached the top of the lower summit, I had climbed 1,435 ft. This rock pile is definitely worth the extra effort, and after that early 60° segment, seemed trivial.

Looking up at the lower summit

The lower summit

It did not take long to climb back up and over the summit and down to the first saddle. I lingered there while longer, sitting on a log with views of the precipice below. I was nervous about the decent figuring I would need to slide on my tail the entire way down. Fortunately, this was not necessary but I did find myself in a tight crouch with my feet in a sharp angle. Poles would be really handy here.

Looking at the upper summit from the lower with Mt. Victoria in the background

The view of Silverthorn from the lower summit. There were some large meadows on that hillside that I did not know existed.

Mt. Royal is a great training hike with some lovely views to reward the hiker. The day I did it, it was probably in the high 80°s even though I had started by 9am. I started sweating immediately and wished I had brought along more water and even a sport drink. The moral of the story is that this hike is harder than its distance and elevation gain would imply, so plan accordingly.

American Red Squirrel

2011-08-17T06:00:00.000-06:00

An American Red Squirrel, a type of Pine Squirrel, lunches on a Lodgepole pine cone.

The squawk of the the American Red Squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) is larger than life. One can't help but think that the harassing vitriol is coming from a much larger creature, like a Grizzly Bear with a wedgie. Alas it is just a highly territorial rodent. I discovered that if yearling squirrels don't stake out a territory by winter, they will die. No wonder they are so obnoxious. Their lives, literally, depend upon it.

This creature is one of three species of Pine Squirrel in North America and the only one of those three to live in Colorado. Also known as a Chickaree, it is almost exclusively a seed eater but occasionally will eat berries and leaves. Sounds like the perfect "granola".

Are those love handles or does this squirrel have a brood of suckling youngsters?

I have rarely gotten a good look at this squirrel because it has the uncanny knack of racing up and down tree trunks in a blur of motion. I came across this specimen while out Moose hunting (still have not caught one on film). She (are those teats in the photo above?) let me get quite close as she blissfully devoured a pine cone.

The other two species of squirrel in Colorado are the Fox Squirrel and Albert Squirrel.

Shrine Mountain

2011-08-13T06:00:00.001-06:00

Distance: 5 miles round trip to end of the right side of the ridge
Elevation: 11,100 ft - 11,888 ft
Elevation Gain: 788 ft (net), 1,135 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 31 July, 2011
Dogs: Off leash
Bathroom at trailhead: Yes

The unusual rock formations on the west side of Shrine Mountain Ridge.

Shrine Mountain off of Shrine Pass near the Copper Mountain Ski Resort has by far the best scenery I have seen in Colorado thus far. It beats out Mt. Thomas, which has similar views but a much larger effort, and Mayflower Gulch, which had here-to-fore has been the trail I returned to year after year, season after season. To think that this trail is practically in my back yard makes it all the more appealing. It is short enough for a quick after work jaunt to watch the sunset from the ridgeline.

Starting out on the gravel road that leads to the Shrine Mountain Inn

The official trailhead is easy to spot

I don't know if it is the 2011 season or this trail but the wildflowers in this area boggled the mind. There were so many colors and textures I wanted to wallow in them forever. This is summer in the Rocky Mountains at its best. Green meadows, flowers galore, and deep blue skies interrupted by fluffy white clouds and the occasional thunderstorm. If these characteristics don't want to make you jump on the plane or buy John Denver's Greatest Hits then there is just no help for you!

Looking down the valley towards Copper Mountain

The route up Shrine Mountain begins at Shrine Pass, which is located only a few miles up Shrine Pass Road from Vail Pass. In the winter there is a fee to use this area in summer there is no fee. The road, while bumpy in spots is passable with a passenger car. Don't be fooled by several of the smaller pull outs along the way. There is a 50 car parking lot at the Pass and bathrooms. You'll know it when you see it.

Bare roots can make for slippery step in wet conditions

Unfortunately, hikers have expanded the trail system beyond the original single track.

The trail follows the gravel road to the Shrine Mountain Inn for a short distance and then quickly veers left into the willows. The views already begin with a panorama down towards Copper Mountain. I suspect the willows will be stunning in the fall. The trail skirts the edge of the meadow and climbs slowly upwards. You can see people and the trail in the distance (around 0.8 miles up the trail) before it finally disappears into the towering Fir forest.

Looking back down the trail at the Gore Range

Leaving the trees and approaching the ridge

From the time you enter the trees, it is only a short mile all the way to the saddle. The route stays in the trees until it exits at the base of the ridge itself, which stands as a towering wall both directly in front of you and to the left. The route goes to the right and wanders through large red rock monoliths before gradually ascending to the saddle. Near the top is large cornice of snow that looks like it stays there all year. Hikers have trudged a route directly across it. While slippery, it is not dangerous in anyway.

Looking left you can see that the ridge curves around to the left

The trail follows the ridge to the right before ascending

Immediately greeting the hiker upon arrive at the saddle is an expansive view to southwest highlighted by the Mount of the Holy Cross, which dominates the view. Some people ascend to just this point for this view alone. To the left is a long, lazy climb through open green meadows and to the right is the summit of Shrine Mountain and the ridge beyond with its fascinating rock formations. A hiker familiar with the area said go right first. Had the weather not intruded, I would have done both.

One of the red rock monoliths that have fallen off of the ridge itself

The route to the right is relatively flat for a quarter of a mile or so. There is a large plateau here where other hikers lounged to admire Holy Cross and the teeming wildflowers at their feet. It was tempted to linger there for a while, but the clouds were building ominously, so after snapping a hundred or so flower pictures, I continued on.

Starting to ascend the ridge

The snow cornice. The saddle is just over that small incline.

From this point, the trail climbs steeply for another quarter of a mile. When I reached the apex of this section I did not realize that I had ascended a name "mountain". It really is just a hump on top of the ridge itself. I have never understood how some large mountains, like the peak just before Mt. Sniktau are unnamed while these lumps of rock are named. I am sure there is logic in there someplace.

Looking left from the saddle. There is a trail that heads up that plateau. I will have to return another day to do that segment.

The Mount of the Holy Cross (14,005 ft) and other peaks in the Holy Cross Wilderness dominate the view to the south.

Beyond the summit the ridgeline continues, which is the most interesting part of this section. It descends gradually and sometimes vary narrowly towards the northwest. To the left is a gentle slope full of trees, while to the right is a small gully overlooking the Gore Range. Sitting atop the other side of the gully is a long series of red rocks that are like a giant Rorschach Test. To me they looked like a giant fossilized aircraft carrier. Bring along some mind alternating substances and who knows what you will see.

A field of wildflowers of every shape and color greeted me as I head off to the right side of the ridge.

You can walk this ridge all way down until the trail officially ends. There was a very steep section that I almost just slide down on my tail near the end. I am not sure it was worth that extra 100 yards, but having never been on the trail before I had to check it out.

Continuing along the right side of the ridge

The summit of Shrine Mountain (11,888 ft) is just ahead

In the distance over Piney Lake and the Gore Range a large thunderstorm was booming, sending shock waves across the valley. I was taking a chance being above treeline in such weather, but since it was a short sprint to trees I felt safe enough pushing my luck. Alas, by the time I returned to the saddle, the weather directly above had turned ominous and it had started to rain. Time to descend dag nabbit!

Looking south towards Copper Mountain from the summit. You could follow that ridgeline down to Wilder Gulch for a nice loop if you had two cars.

The jagged peaks of the Gore Range from the summit slope

The hordes have discovered this fantastic trail, so I don't feel too guilty sharing it with the world. The day I hiked this, there was a continuous stream of folks going up and down. Many were significantly older than me (think Medicare) so this is obviously a trail accessible by many.

Aircraft Carrier rock comes into view. What do you see in its unusual shape?

The ridge begins to narrow. I continued despite the looming dark clouds and the sound of thunder ahead. It is a quick jaunt into the trees on the left.

I will say that this trail is being unfortunately loved to death. Instead of staying in the muddy single track route, the hordes have expanded the trail so that it is almost a multi-lane highway. He is a tidbit about hiking etiquette, get muddy folks, it preserves the area.

Looking back at the rock formation from the end of the ridge

So visitors to our fair State, if you any where near Vail, Copper Mountain, Frisco, Silverthorne etc and have only one day to hike, this is the trail for you. The views will border on a religious experience. You might just pull up stakes and move here permanently. John Denver would be proud.

I had to take only last stop at another field of flowers before descending.

Mountain Spider

2011-08-10T06:00:00.001-06:00

The Mountain Spider (Aculepeira carbonarioides) finishes its lunch.

On a recent trip to Mayflower Gulch, we decided to bushwhack up a talus slope at the end of the Gulch to some old mining ruins. Suddenly, we noticed large webs hanging between the boulders. These webs were everywhere and what is more sinister, large anchor lines, the size of climbers ropes could be seen well up the slope, glistening in the sun. Then we noticed the spiders themselves, perched jauntily at the center of their webs. The sheer volume of them made us wonder if it was wise to continue on to the large cave-like ruin ahead. Did anyone see large antennae protruding from cave? Where all these spiders merely the offspring of some human-snatching arachnid? As we worked ourselves up into a frenzy of speculation several of us heard a distinct and ominous growl coming from a particular part of the slope (most likely a Yellow-bellied Marmot). We almost bolted back down the hill in childish glee.

These spiders are reported to hang out in the middle of their webs during the sunniest part of the day. All the ones we saw certainly were.

In reality, these orb-weaving spiders are actually quite common throughout North America and inhabit talus and boulder fields where their large webs can clearly be seen. This is my first experience with them however.

Chicago Lakes

2011-08-06T06:00:00.001-06:00

Distance: 8.5 miles round trip
Elevation: 10,620 ft - 11,550 ft (lower lake)
Elevation Gain: 930 ft (net), 1,957 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 10 July, 2011
Dogs: On leash, Mt. Evans Wilderness
Bathroom at trailhead: yes

Gazing down on glacier carved lower Chicago Lake

I have fallen in love with Chicago Lakes in the Mt. Evans Wilderness near Idaho Springs. The destination is stunning in that glacial-carved, majestic sort of way, and the route travels through a mixed Fir/Spruce forest, my favorite biome. Add the 14,000 foot Mt. Evans as a backdrop and you have the perfect alpine tableau.

Starting out on the Echo Lake Trail

The official trailhead on the far side of Echo Lake

The trailhead for this hike starts at Echo Lake, a small lake and picnic ground that is popular in summer for family gatherings as well as in winter for easy snowshoeing. We parted on the northern end of the area but did not start marking the distance until we were standing on the Echo Lake Trail itself. From there is it is a short 0.22 miles around the lake to the official trailhead.

View of the Continental Divide from the trail down to the Chicago Creek Basin

The trail down to the basin

From this point it is another two tenths of a mile (at 0.4 miles) to the descent into the Chicago Creek basin. I loved this part of the trail. It is rugged, rocky, and faced on the left by towering gray granite walls. I did this hike on a cool, cloudy day and the towering trees were damp and primeval.

Crossing Chicago Creek

The road to the Idaho Springs Reservoir

After a descent of approximately 286 ft, the basin is reach (at 1.2 miles). The elevation here is 10,334 ft. At 1.3 miles is a sturdy bridge crossing Chicago Creek followed by a dirt road leading to the Idaho Springs Reservoir. The route stays on this road for 1 mile until it reaches the reservoir itself at 2 miles. It is then a short quarter of a mile to the wilderness boundary and kiosk and another 2 miles to the lower lake.

The reservoir and its spillway

One of the two cabins at the upper end of the reservoir

Once inside the wilderness boundary, the route undulates upwards on a rocky trail with views of the sheer cliffs to the east, which is a ridge line between two 13ers, Mt. Warren and Mt. Rogers. This part of the route also contains many skeletal and downed trees, the remains of a late 70's forest fire. The fallen logs and piles of rocks cover the ground creating a thousand nooks and crannies for wildflowers to occupy, and there were tons, adding a vivid splash of color to the otherwise gray terrain.

Signage at the boundary to the Mt. Evans wilderness area

Trail segment through an open meadow

The lower lake sits in a pristine glacial cirque surrounded by Willows. This would be a lovely fall destination. We found it more appealing to sit high up on an open hillside to the right and look down on lake. This hillside was crammed with Indian Paintbrush, Purple Fringe, and the occasional Alpine Sunflower. I called this spot "the log with a view". It was 4.4 miles in from the trailhead.

A rockier trail segment

Looking up at the east wall to the valley

The remains of the 1978 Idaho Springs fire, which burned 400 acres

Sitting there surrounded by beauty my hiking companion and I quietly turned contemplative. She asked why I was I ever drawn to abuse my body in order to seek out alpine settings. She wondered if such places made me feel less significant. I gazed at the gray cliffs for a while and realized it was in fact the opposite. For the brief moment that I sat there, I became part of the scenery. I was expanded exponentially. I became as solid as the rocks, as serene as the lake, as enduring as the processes that produce such places. Sitting by Chicago Lakes makes one feel part of something much larger than insignificant human existence. I became the living embodiment of the cliche, totally connected to the Earth and all such places wherever they exist. Either that or I was smoking mushrooms at high altitude. Both probably produce similar insights.

The final approach to the lower lake

A view of the lake and the end of the valley beyond

Another eight tenths of a mile will bring you to the upper lake. On this trip I did not make that journey. Folks coming down said it was a swampy, muddy mess. 2011 has been a record year for snow and many places are still melting.

The open hillside were we stopped to eat

Flowers in the meadow

Mystical experiences aside, Chicago Lakes is a lovely destination that takes the hiker into the very arms of the Mt. Evans Wilderness. When you are done, drive up to Summit Lake. From there you can look down on Chicago Lakes and feel proud about your accomplishment.

Closeup of some Indian Paintbrush

Purple fringe and company. The wildflowers this year have been stunning

Colorado Columbine

2011-08-03T06:00:00.001-06:00

The Colorado Columbine (Aquilegia ceorulea) grows in meadows, woodlands, rocks, scree from June to August. It is also Colorado's state flower.

The summer of 2011 has been a banner year for Columbine in Summit County. A clear cut field near my condo has had Columbine so thick you need a machete to get through them all.

Kettle Ponds: aka Gore Range Trail from North Rock Creek to Unamed Lake

2011-07-30T06:00:00.000-06:00

Distance: 6.6 miles round trip
Elevation: 9,500 ft - 10,161 ft
Elevation Gain: 661 ft (net) 1,350 ft (cumulative)
Date Hiked: 2 July 2011
Dogs: On Leash (Eagle's Nest Wilderness)
Critters: Mosquitoes

Unnamed Lake along the Gore Range Trail

The Gore Range Trail runs parallel to the Gore Range Mountains for many more miles than a day hiker could do. I have traveled it in chunks to reach specific destinations like South Willow Falls. I did the same on this hike to reach an unnamed lake located just south of South Rock Creek. Several guide books call this hike the "Kettle Ponds". I think it is more than that.

The large parking lot. Note most of the vehicles are high clearance.

The route to this lake begins at the second and most westerly Rock Creek Trailhead located on Rock Creek Road. You get there by taking Hwy 9 out of Silverthorne for approximately 7.7 miles and turning left onto Rock Creek Road/Co Rd 1350 directly across from the Blue River Campground. After 1.2 miles of a dirt and washboard road, that is passable with a low clearance vehicle, Co 1350 goes straight and Rock Creek Road turns left. There is a small brown sign bolted to a tree at this intersection. Immediately after the turn is a large square parking lot. This is the first Rock Creek Trailhead, which is only used in winter (see my North Rock Creek Snowshoe). When I did this hike in July 2011, the Forest Service had clear cut many of the trees around this parking lot so it looks very different from times past.

The North Rock Creek Trailhead Sign

Past the winter trailhead the road becomes significantly more rough. I was driving a high-clearance 4wd truck and at one point I had to gun it over some nasty dips. There are numerous campsites along the way that are so large that they look like trailheads. Don't be fooled. There is a Forest Service sign indicating the trailhead, which is around 1.7 miles from the lower trailhead, and there were tons of other trucks and 4wd vehicles in the large U-shaped lot. There were a few low clearance cars in the lot, but I would not have wanted to drive my sedan up that road.

Heading up the North Rock Creek Trail, an old mining road

The route to the unnamed lake heads up the North Rock Creek Trail (an old mining road) for 0.44 miles before it intersects with the Gore Range Trail. There is a large wooden sign in the middle of the trail so this junction is impossible to miss.

I turned left here and the trail headed immediately down hill. A very bad sign because this elevation would have to be regained at the end of the hike. At the bottom of the hill is North Rock Creek itself. It was flowing heavily with the unprecedented 2011 run off. There is a sturdy log bridge (at 0.67 miles) with which to cross it, however, which was good because anything else would have been washed away. From the other side of the bride is a nice view of the North Rock Creek drainage and the still snow covered peaks beyond.

Starting down the Gore Range Trail. It is more narrow and definitely has a "wilderness" feel to it.

After the creek the trail climbs sharply up another hill. What is opaque to the hiker is that these "rolling hills" that that extend like fingers out from to the Gore Range are actually lateral moraines, deposited by glaciers that covered the landscape between 150,000 and 12,000 years ago. As the glaciers advanced from west to east, they bulldozed the ground beneath them and swept the sediment to the sides. When the glaciers retreated, this sediment remained forming the moraines.

The log bridge over North Rock Creek

Sometimes, large bits of ice were broken off from the main glacier and deposited on the sides along with the sediment. When these bits melted, they formed small depressions in the ground, which geologists call kettle ponds. While the original ice melt has long ago disappeared, the depressions have remained filling again each year with new snow melt. There are s slew of these kettle ponds on this hike.

The view up the North Rock Creek drainage

It might be worth spending a second describing the difference between a tarn and a kettle pond. Both are formed by glaciers. The kettle pond as I mentioned above is formed by melting ice dumped onto a lateral moraine. A tarn is formed in the cirque or amphitheater-like valley carved by a glacier at the base of a mountain. As the glacier melts, the water is retained by a terminal moraine (where the bulldozer stopped), which acts like a dam, keeping the water in. Many of the "lakes" in Colorado are in fact tarns.

The route to the top of the next hill/moraine is a series of switchbacks on a narrow dirt trail. It can be very rocky in places. At 1.4 miles the trail begins to level off. Elevation gain at this point is around 520 ft.

A typical trail segment as the trail heads up the first lateral moraine

While many of the Lodgepole pines in this area are dead, there is spattering of Fir trees, and the verdant spring undergrowth and yellow Heartleaf Arnica made the area seem much less funereal. Another time of year and the dead trees might be psychologically overwhelming.

One of the many kettle ponds onto of the first lateral moraine. Can you say Mosquito factory?

The top of the moraine also contains large boulders, seemingly tossed about willy-nilly. This is another clear sign of glaciation. What else could move such boulders around in such a God-like manner? The first kettle ponds on this moraine comes into view at 1.67 miles.

The bridge over South Rock Creek

At 1.8 miles the route heads down the other side of the moraine, heading towards South Rock Creek. At 2.5 miles, you can hear its roar in the valley below, while at 2.98 miles is the strong "looks-like-it-could-support-a-tank" wooden bridge that actually crosses South Rock Creek. This "creek" was a raging river when I did this trip and I stood on the bridge for quite a while watching the water surge and tumble over the debris that was already piling up.

South Rock Creek

On the other side of the South Rock Creek, the trail climbs up another hill/moraine. The short route to the top is much more rocky than the rest of the trail. At 3.26 miles it crosses an irrigation ditch, which seems very out of place. A short 0.1 miles beyond this is the unnamed lake that was the desitnation for this hike.

The rocky trail heading up the second lateral moraine

Why this lake is unnamed I don't know. It is undoubtedly just another kettle pond, but a much larger one. Perhaps it only exists in particularly wet years. It is unfortunate, because the views of Red Peak and Thorn behind the lake are quite majestic. That alone should warrant a name.

The irrigation ditch

The Gore Range has a reputation for being Mosquito ridden and I certainly found this out on this hike. With no bug spray in my pack, I came home with a large collection of bites forming elaborate constellations on my legs and arms. Seeing the kettle ponds, the mystery of where the little vampires were coming from is solved. The entire Gore Range is dotted with these tiny stagnant pools. The perfect breeding ground for these pests.

Another view of the unnamed lake. It is surrounded by dead trees, lush reeds, and partially covered in lily pads.

While the unnamed lake at the end of this hike was pleasant (dead trees and all), this is not a hike that would want to repeat again and again. It is mostly in the trees, which anyone familiar with this blog will know is not my favorite environment. It was however, perfect for a July weekend when the high country was still buried under deep snow. I also did not see a single person once I turned onto the Gore Range Trail, so for those who prefer solitude, this may just be the ticket.

Wild Iris

2011-07-27T06:00:00.000-06:00

The Wild Iris (Iris missouriensis) is one of the first wildflowers to bloom in spring. It grows on its own stalk, often isolated in a meadow or with a few companions. It likes a moist, foothills, environment but may hang around long after its little micro-swamp has dried up.