Comments for Kartbuilding Blog http://blog.kartbuilding.net Kartbuilding Blog: Regular Tips & Information on Building Karts Fri, 24 Feb 2012 21:00:56 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by Stephen Burke  http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/WPg4cKHypq8/ Stephen Burke  Fri, 24 Feb 2012 21:00:56 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1648 @bobby: For better torque and power (for going through sand etc.), you need to increase the number of teeth on the rear sprocket. This will increase the drive ratio between the engine and the rear axle and give more power. @bobby: For better torque and power (for going through sand etc.), you need to increase the number of teeth on the rear sprocket. This will increase the drive ratio between the engine and the rear axle and give more power.

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1648 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by bobby http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/yxfZ3HLe9nM/ bobby Thu, 23 Feb 2012 03:39:26 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1645 I have a go kart but has bad low end power. I have a 14 top sprocket and a 38 rear sprocket if I lower the rear sprocket to a 34 tooth will that help go through sand I have a go kart but has bad low end power. I have a 14 top sprocket and a 38 rear sprocket if I lower the rear sprocket to a 34 tooth will that help go through sand

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1645 Comment on Steering Geometry and Setup for Go-Karts by Stephen Burke  http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/piOuyBMDxCY/ Stephen Burke  Wed, 22 Feb 2012 20:44:43 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/07/12/steering-geometry-and-setup-for-go-karts/#comment-1644 Hi Aaron, Thanks for the information on Camber and King Pin Inclination (KPI). The steering setup on a kart is quite involved. There are many different angles involved. For the Camber Angle on my own kart, I went through many changes, and left it at 0 degrees for a while. On one of my karts I had rounded tyres (wheelbarrow wheels) and I found this did not work great with a large camber angle. This webpage -> http://www.bcot1.com/karting/ goes into detail with an interactive slider explaining all the Castor, Camber, King Pin Inclination, Spindle Angle and scrub radius. Its quite involved. If you have any examples, images etc. to compliment this, that would be a big help for people. Diagrams are one thing, but its better to see actual photos and images of the steering setup of built karts. Hi Aaron,

Thanks for the information on Camber and King Pin Inclination (KPI). The steering setup on a kart is quite involved. There are many different angles involved. For the Camber Angle on my own kart, I went through many changes, and left it at 0 degrees for a while. On one of my karts I had rounded tyres (wheelbarrow wheels) and I found this did not work great with a large camber angle.

This webpage -> http://www.bcot1.com/karting/ goes into detail with an interactive slider explaining all the Castor, Camber, King Pin Inclination, Spindle Angle and scrub radius.

Its quite involved. If you have any examples, images etc. to compliment this, that would be a big help for people. Diagrams are one thing, but its better to see actual photos and images of the steering setup of built karts.

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/07/12/steering-geometry-and-setup-for-go-karts/comment-page-1/#comment-1644 Comment on Steering Geometry and Setup for Go-Karts by Aaron Storer http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/tHDts2M6kRI/ Aaron Storer Sun, 12 Feb 2012 04:12:39 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/07/12/steering-geometry-and-setup-for-go-karts/#comment-1637 Hi the section of your article on camber is incorrect. Camber is the angle between the axle and the ground, in your example 0 Inclining the king pin is done to reduce king pin offset. Kingpin offset is the lateral distance from the centre of the contact patch to the point on the ground that the kingpin points to. The effect of too much kingpin offset is bump steer. The effect of insufficient kingpin offset is dead steering that lacks feel. Hi the section of your article on camber is incorrect. Camber is the angle between the axle and the ground, in your example 0
Inclining the king pin is done to reduce king pin offset. Kingpin offset is the lateral distance from the centre of the contact patch to the point on the ground that the kingpin points to.
The effect of too much kingpin offset is bump steer.
The effect of insufficient kingpin offset is dead steering that lacks feel.

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/07/12/steering-geometry-and-setup-for-go-karts/comment-page-1/#comment-1637 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by dan http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/D3nZio1Hjcs/ dan Tue, 24 Jan 2012 19:38:48 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1629 Do you know where I can geta Clutch witha 1 inch bore and 12 tooth gear for a 53chain size. Long story putting a Briggs 9hp on a hammerhead got kart Do you know where I can geta Clutch witha 1 inch bore and 12 tooth gear for a 53chain size. Long story putting a Briggs 9hp on a hammerhead got kart

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1629 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by Stephen Burke  http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/6fVNJwIy_FA/ Stephen Burke  Thu, 15 Dec 2011 19:00:29 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1616 Oh, yeah. 2 Stroke engines generally run at higher RPM. Still, it would be worth trying. Not sure if it would be easier to machine a sleeve to fit the clutch onto the 3/4" shaft. Typically the drive shaft of an engine would be heat treated and may not be the easiest to machine. I'd just try and machine a mild-steel sleeve for it. Oh, yeah. 2 Stroke engines generally run at higher RPM. Still, it would be worth trying. Not sure if it would be easier to machine a sleeve to fit the clutch onto the 3/4″ shaft. Typically the drive shaft of an engine would be heat treated and may not be the easiest to machine. I’d just try and machine a mild-steel sleeve for it.

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1616 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by Frank http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/4npQOZBuG94/ Frank Thu, 15 Dec 2011 18:14:32 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1615 That might be the best idea. Since the 2 stroke is shot, I could probably cut off the end of the shaft,and have it machined out to 3/4" ID to fit over the straight shaft. Not sure about the difference in the rpms( idle - full throttle)between the motors,and whether it might affect the engagment of the drive clutch, but it might be worth a shot. Thanks Steve! That might be the best idea. Since the 2 stroke is shot, I could probably cut off the end of the shaft,and have it machined out to 3/4″ ID to fit over the straight shaft. Not sure about the difference in the rpms( idle – full throttle)between the motors,and whether it might affect the engagment of the drive clutch, but it might be worth a shot.
Thanks Steve!

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1615 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by Stephen Burke  http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/G3izRsUrb9Y/ Stephen Burke  Wed, 14 Dec 2011 22:09:18 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1614 @Frank: Yes - a go-kart centrifugal clutch as on this page is exactly what you need for the 3/4" straight shaft. This clutch comes with a standard size sprocket which you should be able to use. See: http://kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01031.JPG.html You should be able to weld a different sprocket if need be to the go-kart centrifugal clutch. I done some modifications to a go-kart clutch. See: http://kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/?g2_page=11 You might want to explore options of making a sleeve to mount the drive clutch from the quad (tapered) onto the 3/4" straight shaft of the 6.5hp motor. Best of luck with it. @Frank: Yes – a go-kart centrifugal clutch as on this page is exactly what you need for the 3/4″ straight shaft.
This clutch comes with a standard size sprocket which you should be able to use. See: http://kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01031.JPG.html

You should be able to weld a different sprocket if need be to the go-kart centrifugal clutch. I done some modifications to a go-kart clutch. See: http://kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/?g2_page=11

You might want to explore options of making a sleeve to mount the drive clutch from the quad (tapered) onto the 3/4″ straight shaft of the 6.5hp motor.

Best of luck with it.

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1614 Comment on Using a Centrifugal Clutch and Chain Drive by Frank http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/zYLx0va3H-k/ Frank Wed, 14 Dec 2011 01:38:03 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/archives/15#comment-1613 The engine on my 25 yr old quad died. It's a 25 yr old Polaris 2-WD, had a 230cc 2 stroke. It also has a snowmobile style centrifical clutch system. I was thinking of installing a 6.5 hp store motor in it,but now that has a 3/4" straight shaft. The drive clutch from the quad has a tapered shaft. Could I use one of those go cart sprocket clutches on this rig? What would I use for a driven sprocket? Don't need high speed. 30mph is plenty. Thanks. The engine on my 25 yr old quad died. It’s a 25 yr old Polaris 2-WD, had a 230cc 2 stroke. It also has a snowmobile style centrifical clutch system. I was thinking of installing a 6.5 hp store motor in it,but now that has a 3/4″ straight shaft. The drive clutch from the quad has a tapered shaft. Could I use one of those go cart sprocket clutches on this rig? What would I use for a driven sprocket? Don’t need high speed. 30mph is plenty. Thanks.

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/06/26/using-a-centrifugal-clutch-and-chain-drive/comment-page-1/#comment-1613 Comment on Want some pedal power for your wooden go-kart? by Casey Dunn http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/CommentsForKartbuildingBlog/~3/paEGNkpRc9g/ Casey Dunn Tue, 06 Dec 2011 20:43:20 +0000 http://blog.kartbuilding.net/?p=67#comment-1610 You can also make the tires from scrap wood, instead of using bike tires. Although it will take some time to make the wheels out of wood. The building of the go kart is the simple part but it requires some time and skill. It took me 6 months to build my go kart. I'm currently building another one and i have been working on it for 2 months. I have only got the axles, tires and chain assembled You can also make the tires from scrap wood, instead of using bike tires. Although it will take some time to make the wheels out of wood. The building of the go kart is the simple part but it requires some time and skill. It took me 6 months to build my go kart. I’m currently building another one and i have been working on it for 2 months. I have only got the axles, tires and chain assembled

]]> http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2010/01/28/want-some-pedal-power-for-your-wooden-go-kart/comment-page-1/#comment-1610