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Process Of Buying A House In Ireland

2008-03-13T16:07:00.001Z

Information

At some point in your life, you may wish to either buy or sell a home or property. It is not possible in Ireland to fully go through the purchase or sale of a home or property without legal advice and assistance, as this is quite a specialised area of law known as conveyancing. Conveyancing describes the legal work involved in the purchase or sale of land or property (the transfer of rights, interests and liabilities, etc.). It will require the appointment of a solicitor by the parties to the transaction.

The duration of the legal process involved in buying or selling a home or property will largely depend on the individual circumstances pertaining to the transaction. Some vendors (sellers), for example, may prefer a quick sale. A typical conveyance, however, may take anything from 8 to 12 weeks. All practising solicitors must hold a "practice certificate" issued by the Law Society on an annual basis.

The two most popular methods by which properties in Ireland are purchased and sold are:

Public auction

Private treaty sales

Public auction

A public auction involves two or more parties competing for the property. Each party makes an offer (bid) and the property is sold to the highest bidder. Notice of the date and time of the auction is usually given by advertisement in a local newspaper or by a sign on the property. A reserve figure is set for the property, usually by the owner or auctioneer. The reserve figure is the value the property must achieve; anything below this and the property will be withdrawn from the market. The reserve figure often reflects the level of interest from buyers for the property. When the reserve price has been reached, the vendor usually sells to the highest bidder. At all times during the auction, however, the vendor has the right to withdraw the property from the market, even if it has achieved the reserve figure. Property auctions are conducted under standard Law Society conditions of sale. These conditions stipulate that unless otherwise stated, all auctions have a reserve price, which is rarely disclosed. On occasions where a reserve price is stated, this means that the highest offer on the day that matches or exceeds the reserve price will secure the property. It is important to remember that in almost all cases, the vendor (seller) reserves the right to sell the property before the auction. There are two representative bodies for professional auctioneers and valuers in Ireland. (See further information under "Where to apply").

In advance of the auction, your solicitor should check the contract for the property (issued by the seller's solicitor) and all title documents that are referred to in that contract. Important issues to consider at this stage are whether there are any restrictions on extending, sub-letting or developing the property; conditions that are attached to the sale; information about service charges and local services; boundaries; rights of way; items included (if any) with the property, etc. When the purchaser's solicitor has satisfied his or her enquiries, the purchaser organises a survey of the property to ensure it is sound.

It is important at this stage to honestly evaluate all costs associated with the purchase of property (i.e., mortgage costs, legal fees, registering deeds, stamp duty, etc.). If you have determined that you can afford to purchase the property taking into account all of these costs, then you are ready to attend the auction.

The successful bidder is the person who makes an offer of at least the reserve price. The successful bidder immediately pays a deposit (10% of the asking price) and signs the contract.

Contracts for sale

[image #2 align=right] This contract is a contract for sale that binds the parties to the completion of the transaction. Should the purchaser withdraw from the sale after this contract has been signed, he or she may lose the deposit he or she has paid. This contract for sale include "building agreements" as most properties these days are sold and developed (built upon) by two arms of the same company. In the past, and rarely currently, one company would sell a buyer land and a different company would build upon it. In such instances, the contract is actually a "contract for sale and building agreement" but in virtually all residential sale cases, a contract is simply known as a contract for sale. The completion date will be set out in the contract and the balance of the agreed purchase price will be due on that date. In the intervening period between the signing of the contract and the completion date, the purchaser's solicitor raises some general queries about the property with the vendor's solicitor. Such enquiries would include:

Is a Family Home Protection Act declaration required? This is a declaration that specifies whether or not the property is a family home. If it is a family home, further documents are required that confirm that the interest of both spouses is regarded in the deeds, i.e., that a husband is not selling without a wife's knowledge or consent. If it is not a family home, then the sale can proceed without further documentation.

Is the consent of the Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food regarding sub-division of land required under the Land Act 1965? Some properties, mainly rural, may have regulations or inhibitions regarding sub-division. The consent of the Department of Agriculture and Food to the sale of such property or part of such property may be required under the Land Act 1965.

Is planning permission in place for any changes that have been made to the property?

When the purchaser's solicitor receives satisfactory replies to "Requisitions on Title", a Deed of Conveyance (or assignment) is drafted by him or her and approved by the vendor's solicitor. Requisitions on Title are a standard set of questions relating to the sale of a property that deal with such things as whether fixtures and fittings are included in the sale. In simple terms, requisitions are a checklist and these are drafted by the Law Society so as to be standardised throughout the legal profession. Once the Deed of Conveyence is approved by the vendor's solicitor, the purchaser's lending institution will be contacted by the purchaser's solicitor to issue the approved loan cheque, the remaining balance of the purchase price is paid to the vendor's solicitor and all documentation, and keys to the premises are handed over to the purchaser's solicitor. It is also imperative that on the date of closing the sale, the purchaser's solicitor has made arrangements for searches to be made against the vendor to ensure that there are no judgements lying against the vendor (i.e., bankruptcy or sheriffs' searches). Furthermore, depending on where the title to the property is held (either in the Land Registry or the Registry of Deeds), an up-to-date copy folio or hand search (a search by hand through the records) should be conducted by the purchaser's solicitor to ensure that there is nothing adverse attaching to the property.

Once a sale is completed, the purchaser's deeds, showing the new ownership details and mortgage details, if relevant, must be registered with either the Registry of Deeds or the Land Registry. Before this can happen, the deeds must be presented to the Revenue Commissioners who will determine how much, if any, stamp duty is due. Stamp duty is due when deeds are presented to the Revenue Commissioners after the closing of a sale. However, the solicitor will calculate how much stamp duty is due and request this from the purchaser prior to the closing of the sale. Stamp duty is calculated as a percentage of the purchase price, between 3 and 9% depending on the value of the property. Some buyers are exempt from stamp duty on transactions up to a certain value. The amount is paid to the Revenue Commissioners who place a stamp on the deeds. Without this stamp, the deeds cannot be registered.

Rates

Registration

Your solicitor will determine the nature of the title to your property. The costs incurred will depend on whether the title is held in the Land Registry or the Registry of Deeds.

Land Registry fees

Registration of mortgage: €125

Registration of Ownership

Application for registration for a transfer on sale where the value of the consideration is not in excess of 13,000 euro (the value of the consideration refers to the amount paid for the property by the purchaser)	€125
Application for registration for a transfer on sale where the value of the consideration is in excess of 13,000 euro but not in excess of 26,000 euro	€190
Application for registration for a transfer on sale where the value of the consideration is in excess of 26,000 euro but not in excess of 51,000 euro	€250
Application for registration for a transfer on sale where the value of the consideration is in excess of 51,000 euro but not in excess of 255,000 euro	€375
Application for registration for a transfer on sale where the value of the consideration is in excess of 255,000 euro but not in excess of 385,000 euro	€500
Application for registration for a transfer on sale where the value of the consideration is in excess of 385,000 euro	€625

Other charges

Land Certificate: €25

Certificate of Charge: €6

Copy folio: €25

Registry of Deeds fees

Memorial of Mortgage (a memorial is a summary of the document): €44

Counterpart of Mortgage (a counterpart is an exact copy of the original document): €12

Memorial of Conveyance/Assignment: €44

Counterpart of Memorial of Conveyance/Assignment: €12

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Spring Care For Your Lawn

2008-03-12T09:56:00.001Z

As with all other times of the year, there are a myriad of tasks to be performed in your garden to keep it looking and feeling as healthy as it was when you first laid it.

The gardener's calendar has always been a particularly busy one and in this age of unpredictable weather patterns and, with changes to our climate proving more and more evident, that calendar is becoming fuller.

Spring is that time of year which paves the way for how the rest of the gardener's calendar will unfold and, just like in the autumn months, when there is less growing but just as much work, spring is characteristically busy with the push to help kick start the growing season again.

Mowing

In terms of growing, your grass will begin to grow faster again as the weather turns warmer and sunnier days are evident. In the early part of spring, roll your lawn if it has been lifted by frosts and then mow as you would normally. You should start with the blades high and lower them as the spring goes on so that by the time late spring, early summer rolls around you are mowing weekly and have reverted to a summer cut.

Aeration

As late spring approaches, this is the time to aerate your lawn. Scratch the surface of the lawn with a rake to allow the soil to absorb water and allow it to breathe.

Scarification

Scarifying your lawn should also be done in the later months of spring, this will allow you to drag free those dead blades of grass and also any moss or loose debris that has found its way into your lawn. It is important to do this because as the grass begins to grow again, so does the risk of disease. By scarifying your grass you are helping to reduce the risk of disease and increasing the chances of having a lawn that looks and feels like it did the previous summer.

Overseeding

Again this is very much dependent on the general wear and tear that the lawn has sustained during the autumn and winter months. It is unlikely that there will have been a great deal of activity from a human perspective during these months but considering such things as heavy rainfall and snowfall there may be patches of grass that need to be re-seeded. Overseed in early spring to ensure growth in time for the summer.

Moss Control

Sprinkling lawn sand over infected areas of lawn will kill the moss and once it has died and turned to black you can rake it free without fear of damaging your grass.

Additional Tasks

As well as carrying out the aforementioned tasks to help keep your lawn in tip-top condition it is also advisable to sweep away any worm casts that may be visible on the lawn, this can be done with a sturdy brush. You may also need to recut some of your lawn's edges and this can be done using a half moon edger and a plank of wood to give a smooth straight line.

If you carry out these tasks in the spring then by the time the summer months come around your lawn should resemble the way it did last summer.

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Information Provided By The Lawn Experts.
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Removing Weeds

2008-03-06T12:12:00.001Z

Removing Weeds
Whatever the time of year weeds are a common problem for any gardener or green-fingered amateur.
These growing pests spend their time wrapping themselves around the roots of grass and plants alike in an attempt to maintain a strong grasp on the garden environment and without proper attention being paid to them they can cause not only damage to your lawn but they can also spoil the visual appearance that you may have spent months trying to perfect.
There are several different ways in which weeds can be removed from your lawn and depending on the severity of the weed infestation this will then have a bearing on which method is best to use.

Weeding by HandFor the most part the old fashioned hand weeding procedure is the best. Manual control of the weeds is carried out either by removing them by hand or by gently prising them out with a hoe or a fork. Of course it is easier to do this on a border or vegetable patch but, when it comes to the lawn, a little more care must be taken to ensure that you don't cause additional damage to the lawn itself.

Shallow rooting perennial weeds can be removed easily with a fork or with a firm grasp at the base of the stalk - this provides enough leverage to remove the bulbs and roots from the ground and leaves them with little or not chance of regrowth. It is best not to use a trowel if you are going to try digging them out as this will only sever the bulbs and multiply a previously contained problem.
Annual weeds too need to be removed from the ground either by hoeing first off or by hand weeding. This is best done on a dry sunny day so that the weeds are loosened easily from the soil.
Horsetail is a perennial that has become practically immune to weed killers so pulling them out or persistently cutting away their foliage is one of the only ways to eradicate that particular problem.

RotavatingAnother way of weeding your lawn is to use a light rotavator. It is advisable to take extreme care using this method as it is easy to damage your lawn in the process but it can be done given the proper care and attention.

Weed KillersAnd last but by no means least are the new protagonists in the gardener's fight against weeds - weed killers. Weed killers are now becoming something of a stable in the gardener's arsenal and used correctly and adhering to the instructions provided they can prove invaluable in helping to remove weeds from your lawn.

Extra care must be advised though and it is best to seek advice from your local garden centre when buying weed killers as some of them are more prone to damaging grasses and turf lawns than killing the weeds themselves. Incorrect usage of weed killers can burn the grass or, worse still, kill it completely leaving unsightly patches of dead grass, which will have to be replaced.
Weeding is perhaps one of those chores that gardeners like least but it is an important part of any gardener's calendar and once carried out there is immense satisfaction to be had from seeing a weed free lawn looking as pristine as the day it was first laid.

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Repairing A Lawn

2008-03-05T09:36:00.000Z

Every year there are a myriad of things that a gardener must do to keep the lawn living up to the expectations they had for it when it was first seeded; here are the most important.

Repairing Damaged Grass Patches

Source a fresh patch of grass from another area of your lawn where it will not be noticeable and remove it in the same way. You could if you wanted to, remove the affected patch of grass and plant new seed but this will take time to grow and bed itself with the existing grass so it is advisable - if possible - to take a sod of grass from another area to immediately replace it and keep the lawn looking uniform.

Once you have replaced the damaged piece of lawn you should liberally spread some fresh soil - or top dressing - over the area replaced and then brush it with a light brush so that the soil fills in the joins between the new and old grass and then sprinkle some grass seed, which will cover over the lines when grown.

When this is done it is a good idea to water your lawn - if weather conditions allow - and do this lightly using a sprinkler system or hose with sprinkler attachment. Watering the lawn allows the grass that has been used to replace the damaged grass the opportunity to feed and also will help with the germination of the grass seeds. Once this has been done place your plastic sheeting over the area of grass that has been replaced and hold it in place with some pegs. Some people use bricks but it is best not to do this as bricks only seek to flatten down the grass around that which has been renewed.

Leaving the plastic sheeting down overnight and early morning allows for the seeds to sink into the soil and prevents birds from feeding on it.

Removing Weeds

Manual control of the weeds is carried out either by removing them by hand or by gently prising them out with a hoe or a fork. Shallow rooting perennial weeds can be removed easily with a fork or with a firm grasp at the base of the stalk - this provides enough leverage to remove the bulbs and roots from the ground and leaves them with little or not chance of regrowth. It is best not to use a trowel if you are going to try digging them out as this will only severe the bulbs and multiply a previously contained problem.

Annual weeds too need to be removed from the ground either by hoeing first off or by hand weeding. This is best done on a dry sunny day so that the weeds are loosened easily from the soil.

Another way of weeding your lawn is to use a light rotavator. It is advisable to take extreme care using this method as it is easy to damage your lawn in the process but it can be done given the proper care and attention.

Repairing Damaged Edges

To repair a damaged edge you should have - as your tools for the job - a spade, a flat board, some plastic sheeting and a half moon edger and some grass seed.

The most effective way to replace a damaged edge is to cut a section of turf or grass from a healthy part of the lawn, preferably not too visible or likely to be damaged just as the edge has.

It is recommended that you cut a square of turf or grass about two inches in depth using the board as a means of measuring it out accurately and using your half moon edger - or spade - dig out the square of existing grass or turf and move it to where it needs to replace already damaged lawn. Once done then use your board to cut out the affected lawn edge. Again cut out a piece of turf or grass around the damaged area - and again roughly two inches in depth - and insert the section you have removed from a healthy part of the lawn.

Upon completing this part of the task it will be necessary to plant seed in the section you have just removed and then water thoroughly - using a sprinkler fitted watering can or hose with a sprinkler fitting. It is best not to water using direct force as this will only serve to waterlog that section and also wash away the grass seed. Then place your plastic sheeting over the area you have just reseeded and secure with some pegs. Leave overnight and remove the next day to allow help with germination.

Once you have replaced the edge there are still some things that you need to do. One of them is a process we have looked at in other articles called top-dressing. Using this proceed sprinkle soil over the join and brush it through the grass so that it fills in the join and then if necessary sprinkle some new grass seed, water and cover with sheeting overnight.

Bearing in mind that we have taken a section of turf or grass from elsewhere in the garden where it might have been flourishing well it may be necessary to trim the new edge using your half moon edger and also feed to ensure that this grass continues to flourish and bed itself in.

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Information Provided By The Lawn Experts.

Top Tips for building and renovating

2008-03-04T11:08:00.001Z

Aspiring to create a truly individual home is a dream shared by thousands of homeowners but is not to be undertaken lightly.

Self-builders and renovators do it for a variety of reasons. They want something different - perhaps an environmentally sustainable home or custom-built for their work and interests, a studio for a painter, a soundproofed wing for a musician. Or they fall in love with a chapel or a barn and decide to convert it.

To help ensure you have the best chance of success with your project, follow these TEN TOP TIPS:

Tip No. 1 - Setting your budgets

For most people, building their own homes means commissioning architects, builders and other sub-contractors. It also relies on private finance - a mixture of cash and mortgage. Before falling in love with a potential project, have a definitive budget in mind, then add 10% as a contingency - realising dreams is not an exact science and costs have a habit of escalating. Establish just how much of your own money you can put into the project. Work out how much it is going to cost to live during the building process. Living in a caravan on site is not the only option. Renting or even staying put are alternatives but do come at a price. Find out from mortgage providers what they are prepared to offer. More and more building societies and banks offer self-build mortgages.

Tip No. 2 - Finding a Plot or Project

Finding the plot or project for your dream home is a challenge. Prices vary enormously and it is difficult to compare like with like values as you would for similar existing houses. If you decide you want to live in a particular area, it pays to do some legwork. Obviously, sign up with local estate agents for details but also ask around in local pubs and shops - maybe put an ad in the local store or newspaper.

TIP 3 - The Design

Building for yourself requires passion, time and energy, as well as good management skills and a huge amount of forward planning. The best and cheapest builds are those that take years to plan and only months to build. The early stages of the project are crucial because at this point the architect translates dreams into elevations and the planners have their say. Finding the right architect or package build company is so important. Work with someone who has relevant experience and sympathy for your ideas. Interview architects and visit package build companies. Look at examples of their work and choose the one you get on with and who shares your view of the world.

TIP 4 - Planning Permission

To get planning permission your design needs to fit in to the landscape and local building pattern. You may need to do some persuading. It can be a good idea to take photographs of the neighbourhood to show the local styles to support your case. It may be worth contacting a planning consultant if you want to build in a particularly sensitive area. This service can be well worth the money as they will usually be able to give quite clear guidelines of what the local planning authorities are likely to consider. Remember that the planning authorities are a service to the local community and not the enemy - the idea is to work together!

TIP 5 - Material Matters

Having the opportunity to specify the materials and the aesthetics of a building is tremendously appealing but, be warned, the choice can be daunting. Your architect should advise you and the planners will have their say but you will have to decide which roof tiles, floor coverings, window frames, etc, you want for your house. Look into the cost, quality and availability of materials, and how easy or problematic they are to work with. Do this before the build starts. Problems with lead times and availability from different sources are major reasons why builds run late.

Tip 6 - More budgeting

A written budget is essential. It should be drawn up as early as possible and include every expense, from the greatest to the smallest. If there is no definite price, put in an estimate - but always try to get quotes and contracts. When you have included everything, add a contingency fund to cover the cost of problems - at least 5-10% of the total. When new costs arise (and they will), amend the budget and calculate the new total.

TIP 7 - Getting Quotes

It can be a good idea to employ a quantity surveyor to price the building work required. Three quotes are standard for each piece of sub-contracted work. These can then be compared to the surveyor's estimate. Study these carefully, don't necessarily go for the cheapest, and find out how long each contractor is likely to be on site.

Tip 8 - Working with sub-contractors

Treat them with respect - after all, these are the people who will make your dream a reality. Set out a plan of works and be prepared to be flexible. There will be problems - the weather and suppliers letting you down are typical. Keep the contractors informed, let them know when you expect them to be on site but expect the unexpected and update everyone of any changes.

TIP 9 - Quality Control

Be on site as much as you can, even if you have appointed your architect or builder as project manager. This keeps the communication flowing and ensures that decisions are made without costly delays. Choose kitchen and bathroom fittings and measure carefully to make sure they fit. Compromises will undoubtedly need to be made during the design and build. Establish early on what your priorities are.

Tip 10 - Homework

Do your homework. Get as much information as possible by buying specialist magazines, Visiting leading self-build exhibitions and Shows, taking place around the country where you can find all the expert advice, ideas and products you need to build your new home.

Security In The Home.

2008-03-03T14:31:00.000Z

Windows

A third of burglars get in through a window.

If you are replacing windows, take the opportunity to install new ones that are certified to British Standard BS7950 ‘Windows of Enhanced Security’ and consider using laminated glass, particularly in ground-floor and accessible windows, as this is much harder to break.

Otherwise, window locks that can easily be seen from outside may put some thieves off, because the thief would have to break the glass and risk attracting attention. And even if they do break the window, they still can’t open it so risk cutting themselves climbing through the broken glass.

Home security and DIY shops sell inexpensive, key-operated locks to fit most kinds of windows. You may need more than one window lock, depending on the size of the opening you need to secure. Fit window locks with keys to all downstairs windows and windows that are easy to reach – for example, those above a flat roof or near a drainpipe.

Even small windows such as skylights or bathroom fanlights need locks. A thief can get through any gap that is larger than a human head.

Remember to keep windows locked. Remove the keys and keep them out of sight in a safe place.

Louvre windows are especially vulnerable because thieves can easily take the slats out of the frame. Glue the slats into place, and fit a special louvre lock. Better still, replace them with fixed glass.

Before fitting locks to PVC-U or metal windows, talk to the installer to make sure this will not affect your warranty.

Consider fitting security grilles to vulnerable windows - but only if these windows are not escape routes in case of fire. Many DIY shops now sell decorative wrought-iron grilles.

	Casement locks make it harder to open windows without the correct key.
	Fanlight locks have a metal bolt to secure the metal arm used to open and close the window. Ideally, though, you should not rely on these locks - fit a casement lock too.
	The lock shown here locks the two windows together. A more discreet version is embedded into the wooden frame. Or there are devices to stop the window opening beyond a certain limit

Doors

Secure all doors

If your front and back doors are not secure, neither is your home. Two thirds of burglars gain entry through a door.

If you are replacing a door, take the opportunity to improve your security by installing a door that is certified to British Standard PAS 24-1 'Doors of Enhanced Security'.

Ask for it to be fitted with a chain or bar and, if it doesn’t have a window or other means of checking who’s at the door, a door viewer.

Glass panels on or around doors are especially vulnerable, so replace them with laminated glass. Or, you can buy special film to stick to the inside that will do the same thing.

Make sure the doors and frames are strong and in good condition. Wooden doors should be solid and at least 44mm (1 3 /4") thick.

Fit five-lever mortise deadlocks (Kitemarked BS3621) to all outside doors, including French doors. And make sure you use them.

You can make wooden doors stronger by fitting a steel strip and plates to the door frame and around the lock.

Keep your doors locked even when you’re at home. Use the mortise deadlock or, on PVC-U or other enhanced security doors, the fully or double-locked mode especially at night.
Fit mortise bolts to the top and bottom of all outside doors, including both sides of French doors.

Remember to fit all security devices with strong screws or bolts.

Before fitting locks to PVC-U or metal doors, check with the installer to make sure that this will not affect your warranty.


1. Door viewer If you don’t have a window in the door or some other way of checking who’s calling, fit a door viewer. Look through this to identify callers before you open the door.	2. Hinges Check that the door hinges are sturdy and secured with strong, long screws. For added security, fit hinge bolts. These are cheap and help to reinforce the hinge side of a door against force. Hinge bolts or security hinges are especially important if your door opens outwards.
3. Letterboxes Never hang a spare key inside the letterbox. This is an obvious place that a thief will check. Letterboxes should be at least 400mm (16 inches) from any locks. Consider fitting a letterbox cage or other restrictor, which prevents thieves from putting their hands through the letterbox and trying the latches from the inside.	4. Rim latch Most front doors are fitted with a rim latch, which locks automatically when the door is closed. You can open these from the inside without a key. For strength and quality, look for BS3621 Kitemarked products. For extra protection, you should consider installing the following.
5. Automatic deadlock This locks automatically when the door is closed and is more secure than other types of rim latch. It needs a key to open it from both the inside and the outside.	6. Chains and door viewers Buy a door bar or chain and door viewer. Use them every time someone calls. Remember, though, that you only use the door chain or bar when answering the door - don’t leave it on all the time.
7. Mortise deadlock Fit a five-lever mortise deadlock about a third of the way up the door. Most insurance companies are happy with one Kitemarked toBritish Standard BS3621. You can only open a deadlock with a key, so a thief can’t smash the nearby glass panel to open the door from the inside. Deadlocks also mean that if burglars get into your home through a window, they can’t carry your belongings out through the door.

Sliding patio doors should have anti-lift devices and locks fitted to the top and bottom to stop them being removed from outside, unless they already have a multi-locking system. Get specialist advice. If you are getting new or replacement patio doors, ask the system supplier for their high-security specification.

Keys

Never leave a spare key in a convenient hiding place such as under the doormat, in a flowerpot or behind a loose brick - thieves know all the usual hiding places.

If you move into a new home, change the front and back door locks immediately – other people may have keys that fit. Look in your phone book for the names of local locksmiths who are members of the Master Locksmiths’ Association.

Never leave your house or car keys in or near a door or window. Some thieves have been known to use a fishing rod or magnet on a stick to steal them through the letterbox.

Decide on a safe place for your keys and always use it, so you can find them in an emergency.

Increasingly, burglars are breaking in to steal the keys of high-value cars. So take care of your keys and, if you have a garage, keep your car in it rather than on the drive.

If you live in a flat

Doors on individual flats are often not as strong as those on houses and can be the easiest way for a thief to break in.

Follow the advice about doors, above.

Doors to flats over a floor level of 4.5 metres (normally those on the second floor or higher) should have locking mechanisms fitted in line with BS5588 Part 1:1990 ‘Fire Precautions in the Design and Construction and Use of Buildings’.

Shared entrances

Consider having a phone-entry system fitted to the main door to your building. Never ‘buzz’ open the door for strangers or hold the door open for someone who is arriving just as you are leaving or entering the building.

Distraction Burglary

Some burglars try to trick their way in. They may say they are from the water, gas or electric company or the local council. Or, they may ask for a glass of water, or to wash their hands or claim to have lost a pet. In fact, they’ll use any story they can to get in. They can be young (even children) or old, male or female, and might work alone or in teams. They often target the elderly.

Remember

Lock
Keep your doors and windows locked, even when you’re at home.
Stop
Are you expecting anyone, do they have an appointment? Make sure the back door is locked - some thieves work in pairs with the other one sneaking in the back while you’re at the front door.
Chain
Put the door bar or chain on before you open the door.
Check
Check their identity carefully. Ask for an ID card. Close the door and check using a phone number from the phone book or a relevant bill, not the one on the card.

If in doubt, keep them out, particularly if you’re on your own. Ask them to make an appointment or come back later when someone else is around. Genuine callers won’t mind. If you are suspicious, report the incident to the Gardai. You may help prevent them from burgling someone else.

Around the home

Outside lighting

Good lighting can put off or draw attention to a thief.

The most appropriate form of lighting to use is high-efficiency low-energy lighting, controlled by a dusk-to-dawn switch so that it comes on only when it’s dark. This provides a constant and uniform level of light. It costs very little to run and helps to create a more reassuring environment.

Lights that come on if they sense movement can be annoying to neighbours and dangerous to passing traffic. If you have these, make sure they are directed downwards.

Fit lights out of easy reach - at a height of at least 2.5 metres (eight feet).


Dusk-to-dawn light	Movement-activated light

Make it look like you are at home when you are out

Remember, most burglaries happen when a house or flat is empty. They are also more likely to happen during the evening or at night.

Don’t leave curtains closed during the daytime.

Use time switches to turn on lights, radios and other appliances when you’re out. You can buy these from DIY shops. But don’t use them if they will show a burglar that you're out, for example, in ground floor rooms where the curtains have been left open. Keep all valuable items out of sight.

If you’re going away:

cancel any milk or newspaper deliveries
cut the lawn and so on before you go
don’t put your home address on luggage labels when travelling to your destination
if you can, get a friend or neighbour to look after your home while you’re away. Ask them to collect your post, draw your curtains at night and open them in the mornings, and generally make the place look lived-in. Be prepared to do the same for them.

Small safes, hidden and securely fixed, are ideal for spare chequebooks, credit cards, passports, jewellery and so on.

Gardens, gates and fences

Prevent intruders getting to the back and sides of your home by installing strong fencing or gates.

Check for weak spots where a thief could get into your garden, for example, a low or sagging fence, or a back gate with a weak lock.

A thorny hedge along the boundary of your property can put thieves off. But make sure that passers-by can still see the front of your home so that a burglar can’t work without being seen.

Burglars don’t like gravel, it’s noisy to walk on.

Don’t build pergolas, gazebos and so on too near to the house, they can help thieves reach upper windows.

Solid fences or walls (particularly those with a flat or rounded top) are relatively easy for a burglar to climb over. Fixing trellising to the top can make it more difficult.

Do not use barbed or razor wire, or broken glass - you could be held legally responsible for any injuries caused. You can get safer alternatives that are designed not to cut or injure.

Passageways at the side and back of your home

Fit a strong, lockable, high gate across the passageway to stop a thief getting to the back of your home where they can work without being disturbed. If you share a passageway with a neighbour, ask their permission and for help with the costs.

However, if the passage is a right of way (for example, where it connects two streets rather than just allowing access to the back of a limited number of houses), you would need special permission to fit a gate from your local authority or the courts.

Garages and sheds

Garages and sheds are often full of expensive tools, which are ideal for breaking into the rest of the house.

Never leave a garage or garden shed unlocked, especially if it has a connecting door to the house. A thief could get in and work on the door inside without being seen.

Fit strong padlocks to shed and garage doors, and make sure that the doors are solid enough not to be kicked in.

Lock ladders inside your garage or shed to stop a thief using them to reach upstairs windows. If there is no room in your garage or shed, chain or padlock them horizontally to a sturdy bracket on an outside wall.

Consider having lockable steel boxes fitted to the floor to store your tools in, or anchor posts fitted to the floor to secure larger tools and equipment.

Burglar alarms

Many burglars will avoid breaking into a property with an alarm.

There are many alarm systems on the market. These range from fairly cheap alarms, which you can fit yourself, to more sophisticated systems, costing hundreds of pounds, which need to be installed by professionals. Low-cost alarms are less reliable and can, through false alarms, be a nuisance to both you and your neighbours.

Consider whether you need an audible-only alarm (which sets off a siren or bell) or a monitored alarm (connected to a central 'listening' service). Due to the huge number of false alarms, Gardai will only respond to audible alarms if there is confirmation of suspicious activity - such as a neighbour saying they saw someone or heard glass being broken.

For monitored systems, the monitoring company will check whether any alarm was false - for example, set off by the homeowners entering the wrong access code - and call out the Gardai if necessary. Monitored systems are particularly important for isolated properties.

If you are thinking about installing a burglar alarm, you should do the following.

Ask the crime prevention officer at your local Gardai station for advice before you buy an alarm.
Get at least three quotes and specialist advice from companies that supply alarms.
Talk to your insurance company about the alarm companies they recommend before you decide which best suits your needs.
Get professional help to install the alarm and to explain how to operate it correctly to make sure that it will work properly.

Remember, an alarm which is not fitted properly can create problems in itself. Don’t fit an alarm yourself unless you have the electrical knowledge and practical skills to do so, it could end up costing you more.

Mark your belongings with your Address

Marking your belongings may put burglars off as it will make the belongings harder to sell, and can help the Gardai investigate crimes and prosecute criminals.

You can replace some items easily, but marking your property can also help the Gardai to return irreplaceable items if they are found.

Items should be visibly and permanently marked showing your address and the number of your house or flat or the first two letters of its name.

Only use an ultraviolet marker pen when other methods would reduce the value of the object, because the mark isn’t visible and so might not put burglars off or make it more difficult for them to sell the marked item. The marks can also fade.

Take pictures of all valuables like jewellery and silverware and write down the makes, models and serial numbers of your TV, video, DVD, stereo or CD player, home computer, camera equipment and so on. This will help the Gardai identify them if they are stolen.

You may want to consider keeping valuable items, such as jewellery, in a safe.

Ask your local Gardai station for advice on how to get stickers to display in the front and back windows of your home to show that you have marked your belongings.

New belongings

Don’t leave empty boxes outside your home - they can give away details of new and valuable equipment, which may be attractive to burglars.

Don’t buy crime

Never buy property that you think might be stolen, no matter how tempting the bargain.

You will be dealing in someone else’s misery.
The money you pay is likely to be used to buy drugs.
It’s a crime, punishable by up to 14 years in jail.

Home Security

Insurance

Insurance will take away the financial worry of replacing stolen goods.

Many insurance companies offer reduced premiums for people with good home security. But make sure you lock your home up properly and switch on any alarm - if you don’t you may not be covered.

Ask your insurance company which security products they recommend.

Fire safety

When you are fitting security devices, you must consider the risk of fire and how you would escape.

Fit at least one smoke detector on every floor of your home. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully and check them every month.

Agree a plan with your whole family for getting out in an emergency and make sure you know where your keys are at all times.

Be a good neighbour

If you see anyone acting suspiciously in your neighbourhood, call the Gardai.

Join a Neighbourhood Watch Scheme. Anyone can start up a Neighbourhood Watch Scheme - ask at your local Garda station for details.

If you are burgled

Good security will reduce the chance of your home being burgled. But, in case the worst happens, think now about how you would deal with the situation.

If you’re in the house and you hear a burglar, how you react will be a personal choice and might depend on the situation - for example, whether you’re alone.

You could make a noise and hope it scares the burglar off, or you might prefer to keep quiet and hope the burglar doesn’t come into the room you’re in.

Many people now have a phone in their bedroom. But even if you do, take your mobile to bed with you. If someone breaks in, you can use it to call the Gardai even if they’ve disconnected your normal phone.

If you get home and notice signs of a break-in:

don’t go in or shout as the burglar could still be inside
go to a neighbour’s to call the Gardai - if you think the burglar is still inside, let the Gardai know
don’t touch anything, you could destroy valuable evidence.

Security checklist

Here’s a quick reminder of some of the things you can do to improve the security around your home.

If you are replacing or fitting new doors and windows, get ones that are certified.
Fit mortise locks to all front and back doors and locks to all downstairs windows or windows which are easy to reach.
Keep your house and car keys safe and away from doors and windows.
Fit a burglar alarm, but make sure it is installed properly and works.
Keep your garage and garden shed locked with proper security locks, and keep any tools secure and out of sight.
Trim back any plants or hedges that a burglar could hide behind
Make sure you have up-to-date insurance.

When you are away:

don’t leave your curtains closed during the daytime
use timer switches to turn on some lights when it gets dark
cancel any milk or newspaper deliveries when you go away
ask a neighbour to look after your home

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Wood Chip or Pellet Boilers

2008-02-26T11:38:00.002Z

Modern wood chip or pellet boilers offer the warmth and comfort of wood heating while being highly efficient, clean burning and totally automatic, saving you time and money.

Chip or Pellet boilers are lit automatically and continue to operate without manual intervention. Automatic fuel supply and thermostat means you can relax and enjoy the comfort of chip/pellet heating at the switch of a button. Automatic ignition means that lighting the boiler is convenient and easy. Modern chip/pellet boilers are self cleaning so you can forget the daily cleaning chore of traditional solid fuel heating systems. The ash pan needs to be emptied bi-weekly, or less frequently, depending on service.

These systems must comprise the main heating system of the house and can be run on wood chips and/or wood pellets.

Flues: The flue is used for the exhaust of the boiler or stove. It can be installed through a chimney or outside the building. The flue must be installed to current Building Regulations.

Some things to look for would be:

It is above the eaves line by about 1metre or 600mm if coming out near the roof apex.
It is twin walled and insulated.
It has a cowl or hood on top to help prevent down draught.
It should be separated from any combustible material.

Constructional Hearth: A constructional hearth should be placed under a stove to separate the stove from combustible material and to provide protection from the threat of fire. The constructional hearth could be a metal or a non-combustible plate. The appliance should not be placed close to the edge of a hearth or any combustible material.

Air Supply: A stove or boiler must have a secure air supply for safe operation. This can be either in the form of a controlled dedicated air supply directly to the appliance, or in the form of a permanent ventilation opening to the room in which the appliance is located. Best practise is to rely upon dedicated ventilation and not on air infiltration and/or leakage in the room. The size of the opening depends on the size of
the appliance. Your installer should be able to size this correctly. In addition, extractor fans may interfere with the operation of the appliance causing smoke to spill out of the appliance into the room so please consult with your installer.

Thermal Mixing Valve (Anti Scald Valve): Best practice calls for the fitting of a thermal mixing (anti-scald) valve. This applies to all hot water systems and not just solar heated water systems. With the current recommendation to store hot water at 60°C to prevent the growth of legionella bacteria it is becoming more of a consideration to install thermal mixing valves. A thermal mixing valve mixes cold and hot water together to ensure the water temperature is safe for people to use.

Bulk Fuel Storage: All biomass boiler installations shall require the provision of bulk storage. It shall be required to meet local building and fire regulations. The ONORM M7137 Standard shall be used as a guideline for DIY bulk storage units. Bulk storage capacity shall be able to store a minimum of 3 tonnes of wood pellets (80% of a typical houses’ requirement for one year).

Buffer Heat Store: It is a recommendation that a buffer or accumulator tank be incorporated as part of domestic wood pellet / chip boiler system installations where appropriate. A buffer or accumulator cylinder in a domestic biomass heating installation is a primary heat storage/distribution cylinder, which is heated by the boiler to a set temperature and can store the resulting high temperature water for long system standstill periods, until heating or hot water is required. A buffer / accumulator reduces the on/off cycling of wood boilers by “smoothing” the heat
output to the dwelling. The buffer or accumulator capacity should be calculated in accordance with your manufacturer’s recommendations. A rough guideline for establishing the volume of the buffer is available from EN303-5 and from the REIA training manual and is in the region of 55 to 65 L/kW of the rated boiler size.

The use of a buffer / accumulator is noteworthy in the following situations:

Where the boiler does not have full modulation capabilities: the use of a buffer will smooth the heat output to the dwelling.
In situations where the boiler is not capable of supplying the full heat demand of the house, a buffer tank will allow the boiler to run for longer at optimum efficiency extracting maximum potential from the boiler and fuel.

Thermostats
Thermostats are used to control the temperature of an area or space. You should consider what the optimum location of the thermostat is; usually it is the living space where you will spend most of your time. It is very worthwhile to have all main rooms “zoned” and fitted with their own thermostat.

Pellets
Quality pellets are essential to ensure clean combustion and trouble-free operation of your appliance. When buying pellets, consumers should consider those that are supplied with a quality mark and with a complete fuel analysis. Often this information will be printed on the packaging.

Pellets can be purchased in bagged or bulk form. For bulk purchases, a dry covered storage area is required. Generally bulk prices are more competitive than those for bags. Wood chips are generally sourced locally. It is important that the fuel used (quality, size, moisture content) is suitable for the appliance; your supplier will provide you with these details.

Poor pellet quality can greatly interfere with the functioning of the heating system. There are various European pellet quality standards currently in operation. Some of the more common standards are:
Austria: ÖNORM M1735
Sweden: SS 187120 and SS 187121
Germany: DIN 51731
Europe: CEN TS 14961
In Canada and the US the equivalent standard is Premium grade.

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Measurements and Quantities

2008-02-22T12:31:00.004Z

AREA CONVERSION

square metre = 10.764 square feet

1 square foot = 0.093 square metre

1 square metre = 1.196 square yards

1 square yard = 0.84 square metre

1 square centimetre = 0.156 square inch

1 square inch = 6.45 square centimetre

VOLUME CONVERSION

________________________________________________

1 cubic centimetre = 0.061 cubic inch

1 cubic inch = 16.387 cubic centimetre

1 cubic foot = 0.028 cubic metre

1 cubic metre = 35.314 cubic foot

LENGTH CONVERSION

________________________________________________

1 centimetre = 0.39 inch

1 inch = 2.54 centimetre

1 metre = 1.09 yard

1 yard = 0.91 metre

1 inch = 0.03 metre

1 metre = 39.37 inch

1 foot = 30.48 centimetre

1 metre = 3.28 feet

How Much Do I Need?

Use these tables to work out how much you need.

Sand

length (ft) × width (ft) × depth (in) ÷ 265 = tonnes + waste

length (m) × width (m) × depth (m) × 1.6 = tonnes + waste

Gravel

length (ft) × width (ft) × depth (in) ÷ 250 = tonnes + waste

length (m) × width (m) × depth (m) × 1.7 = tonnes + waste

Plastering

One tonne of sand plasters approximately 30m² of wall 20mm thick

How much concrete will I need?

Concrete quantities, like any other measure of volume are calculated by multiplying length x width x depth (or height) and are measured in cubic metres (m3).
For example: If a room measures 3m x 4m and the depth of the concrete floor is to be 100mm, the calculation is 3 x 4 x 0.1 = 1.2m3.

To convert cubic yards to cubic metres - multiply by 0.765
To convert cubic feet to cubic metres - multiply by 0.028

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Solar Energy in Ireland

2008-02-20T11:18:00.002Z

The common conception is that Ireland’s long winter nights and seemingly perpetual cloud cover make it an unsuitable location for harvesting solar energy. The truth is, however, that with the right technology and a properly designed installation the average Irish home can cover as much as 50-60% of their hot water heating bill with free solar energy (according to Sustainable Energy Ireland).

The average home requires approximately 3000 kWh per year for hot water heating. The above map shows the amount of solar radiation falling on a single square meter over the course of a year (this is with the solar plate facing due south and tilted at 30 degrees). Given the typical square meterage of a roof, there is the potential to harvest many times the required heating energy needs for your home.

The above map shows the energy available, but there are a few factors to take into account that affect how much energy you can actually capture and use. Below is an explanation of the main issues to be aware of with solar heating. However, even after taking into account all of these considerations it is likely that solar energy can supply 50-60% of your hot water needs.

Winter vs. Summer

As seen in the graph, the amount of heat supplied by the solar collectors does vary over the course of the year. But with vacuum tube collectors, described in detail below, your home will benefit all year round and over the course of the year the energy gains add up to a significant portion of your hot water bill.

Cloudy weather:
Modern solar collectors do not need direct sun light to function. Because the solar collectors are designed to trap the sun’s energy and hold onto the heat, even on overcast or rainy days the ambient day light will provide energy to heat your water or home.

Location:
Solar collectors are typically installed on the roof of your home. The maximum energy gains are acquired when the collectors are pointed due south and angled between 30 and 45 degrees. As you move away from this ideal orientation the effectiveness of solar collector drops. Typically an orientation between south-west through to south-east is acceptable. The effectiveness will also be diminshed if the collectors are shaded or partially shaded by trees or nearby buildings.

Efficiency:
The effciency of a solar collector refers to how much of the sun’s energy that hits it is turned into useful heat energy for warming your home. There are two main types of solar collectors for domestic use; Flat Plate and Vacuum Tube Collectors. In broad terms, flate plate and vacuum tube collectors have comparable levels of efficiency at hot temperatures and in direct sun light. However, Vacuum Tube Collectors are significantly more efficient in low light and with colder outside temperatures, making them ideal for Ireland.

Vacuum Tube Collectors

Vacuum Tube Collectors are made up of a number of glass tubes. The glass tubes have all the air vacuumed out to create an excellent insulating barrier, like a thermos bottle. The energy of the sun’s rays passes through the glass and heats up an inner copper tube, but the heat can’t get back out. This is a key advantage for Vacuum Tube Collectors in cooler climates, such as Ireland (aka Hibernia).

The copper tube in the centre of the tube carries a heat transfer liquid (distilled water or alcohol). This inner tube is also a vacuum. Due to this vacuum the liquid boils at a lower temperature, turning it into steam which rises out of the solar collector. This heated fluid is then used to heat a water tank or it can be used directly for space heating.

Vacuum Tube Collectors are the ideal solution for Ireland’s climate. The vacuum tube allows the inner liquid to be heated to a relatively high temperature even if the outdoor temperature is cold. In addition the sun’s rays deliver the most energy when they shine directly onto a surface, not at an angle. Due to the shape of the glass tube, sunlight is able to directly strike the inner heating element from many directions. This allows the solar collector to make the most of low lighting conditions and allows it to work well in summer and winter.

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How To Bleed Your Central Heating System

2008-02-18T11:04:00.003Z

When new water is added to a central heating system, a certain amount of air also enters the system. The action of the impeller of the pump will also 'create' a certain amount of air. As air will rise in water, it will collect at high points in the system, this is especially noticeable within radiators and in high level circulation pipework.

How to know if there is air in a system.

The most common area of trapped air is in radiators. This is fairly easy to detect as the air will reduce the amount of heat radiated. With the central heating switched on, feel the top and then the bottom of the radiator - if the top is noticeably cooler than the bottom, there is a good likelihood that there is air in the radiator.

In very severe cases, the whole of the radiator may be filled with air so no difference in temperature will be discernible - if the complete radiator is 'cool' when the central heating is switched on, try bleeding the radiator to ensure that the problem is not just air in the system.

How to bleed a Radiator.

It's a good idea NOT to bleed radiators with the central heating pump ON - if you do, there's always a risk that air might be drawn into the system making your problems worse.

Note that bleeding a sealed system will reduce the pressure which will need to be adjusted afterwards - this is normally done by turning on the mains cold water feed to the system as mentioned in step 6 below. Confirm before starting the bleeding process that you know how to re-pressurise the system - if in doubt, consult a heating engineer.

With warm water in the radiator, switch off the Central Heating system.
Fit a bleed key onto the bleed valve (this is usually at the top at one end of the radiator - on some designs of radiator, it may be at the back).
Loosely wrap a piece of old cloth around the key to catch any expelled water.
Open the bleed valve by turning the bleed a 1/2 turn anti clockwise - hissing of air being expelled will normally be heard.
When water starts to dribble out of the valve, close the valve by turning the key a 1/2 turn clockwise. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
If the Central Heating system is a sealed system, check the pressure and, if necessary, top up the pressure as required (often 1 bar but check the instructions).

How to bleed the circulation system.

With warm water in the radiator, switch off the Central Heating system.
The bleed valve often has a knurled release so no special key is required..
Loosely wrap a piece of old cloth around the valve to catch any expelled water.
Open the bleed valve - hissing of air being expelled will normally be heard.
When water starts to dribble out of the valve, close the valve by turning it clockwise. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
If the Central Heating system is a sealed system, check the pressure and, if necessary, top up to the pressure as required (often 1 bar but check the instructions).

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Heating & Insulation Tips

2008-02-15T08:56:00.000Z

Heaters:
When buying heaters, make sure that they are the right size for the rooms they are to heat, and that they have thermostatic controls.
Remember that electric heaters other than storage heaters consume electricity at the most expensive charge rate.
Use a space or portable heater instead of the central heater, if only one room needs heating.
Choose heaters with thermostat controls and timers.

Central Heating:
Turn off the heating overnight and when you are out during the day.
Turn off the heating if you are going to be out of the house for more than a day.
Proper control and regular maintenance of your heating system can reduce fuel consumption by 10-20%
If you have gas heating, turn-off pilot lights during the warmer months.
Heat bedroom areas to less than 18oC
20oC is an ideal room temperature. Turning down thermosats by 1oC can reduce annual space heating energy consumption by 10% with an equivalent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions.

Heat Loss:
Open fires are wasteful of energy with more than 70% of the energy going up the chimney.
If the radiator is mounted below a window, a projecting window-board or shelf above the radiator will direct warm air into the room, reducing heat loss through the window.

Close doors to separate heated from unheated areas of your home, and minimise the area you are heating.

Hot Water Heating:
Use the timer on immersion heaters. This should supply you with enough hot water as and when you need.
Heating hot water account for 64% of energy consumption in the home: you should be thrifty in its use.
90% of the energy consumption of washing machines goes on heating the water. Wash clothes whenever possible in cold or cool water.

Insulation:
Much of the heat loss from a house occurs through the windows particularly if they are single glazed. Keep curtains closed at night and ensure that the curtains don’t hang over the radiators.
A reflective foil, backed by insulation if space permits should be fixed behind radiators mounted on external walls.
A lagging jacket on your hot water cylinder will keep water hotter for longer and pay for itself in 2-3 months.
If replacing the hot water cylinder, a cylinder with factory applied insulation should be considered. Such insulation is more effective at retaining heat than a lagging jacket, is less easily damaged and cannot be pulled out of place.
Insulate your attic and save up to 20% on your home heating bill.

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Fire Safety In Your Home

2008-02-07T14:45:00.000Z

About 50 people die each year because of preventable fires in the home. Every fire has a cause and most often, there’s a common-sense, simple method of prevention. Careless attention to fireplaces, heaters, smoking and cooking equipment are leading caused of fire-death and injury. This leaflet explains the basics of fire prevention in the home and what to do should a fire break out. Remember, the age groups most at risk are the under 12’s and over 60’s Let’s start with three golden rules.

1. Plan and practice an escape drill with your family.
2. Install smoke alarms to give you an early warning.
3. Survey your home to ensure that it is firesafe.

1. The Escape Drill – Automatic Safety

Most often when fire breaks out, so too do panic and error. Things can happen very quickly and in a situation where seconds can save lives, you and your family need to be able to act without hesitation. A rehearsed fire escape drill can make all the difference.

Your Fire Drill at a Glance

Together, plan two escape routes from each room.
Practice the plan until perfected
Close all doors behind you as you leave
The stairs are your primary escape route – keep them clear.
If your clothes catch fire – stop, drop and roll
Do not re-enter the house for any reason
Phone the fire brigade from a nearby outside phone
Decide on a meeting point outside the house near where the fire brigade is likely to arrive.

If you are prevented from leaving by smoke, heat or fire, close the room and seal all cracks with sheets or clothing or a sheet. Always keep down on the floor where the air is cleaner and cooler. Using this leaflet, practice the drill every few months with your family.

2. Smoke Alarms Smoke - Turning an Enemy into an Ally

Most fires happen at night while people are asleep. When there’s a fire, smoke will actually put sleeping people into a deeper sleep, it will not wake them. By installing smoke alarms you will have early warning devices which give you time to act before you and your family are overcome by dangerous smoke and fumes.

Two smoke alarms, properly located, would suit the average home – you should only install smoke alarms manufactured to recognised standards.
Make sure that all smoke alarms are properly installed and maintained. Test the alarms and their batteries regularly.

3. The Firesafety Survey - Prevention is the Best Firefighter

Most people think of their homes as a haven of safety. The truth is, when it comes to fire, a lot of houses and dwellings are anything but safe. Using this leaflet as a checklist, walk through your home with your family checking the following common-sense precautions. Do the check regularly.

Living and Family Rooms

If you allow smoking in the house, provide large, stable ashtrays. A burning cigarette end can smoulder for hours before igniting and spreading.
Are matches and lighters out of children’s reach?
Make sure you have an effective sparkguard at open fires especially before you go to bed and when children are about. Clean chimneys at least twice a year. Remember don’t leave newspapers, clothes or combustible materials too close to a fire or heater.
Check all electrical leads and plugs for deterioration, burning or fraying. Make sure there are no over loaded sockets. Switch off and unplug all appliances when not in use. (These checks apply all around the house).
Portable heaters should be treated with care. All gas and electric models require special attention and handling. Do you know of any special instructions for their use? Keep all flammable materials at a safe distance.

The Kitchen

Most domestic fires start here. Having a fire extinguisher and fire blanket will substantially reduce the risk of fire spreading.
A clean cooker is a lot safer than a greasy one. Treat kitchen appliances and electrical leads do not cross over cooker rings.
Develop safe and sensible cooking habits. Keep saucepan handles turned in but not over other rings. Take care with chip pans and hot cooking oil. If your cooking oil catches fire, use a fire-blanket to put it out. Do not move the pan or use water to extinguish flames.

The Bedrooms

One of the most dangerous fire hazards in the home is smoking in bed – it is high risk and should be completely banned.
Check electric blankets regularly for wear or damage. Make sure they are used according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Remember, switch off and unplug all appliances before going to bed.

Workshops, Utility and Storage Areas

Most garages and storage areas contain some flammable materials – oil, petrol, paint, adhesives, insecticides and chemicals. Utmost care should be taken. As many of these as possible should be stored outside the house in sealed metal containers.
Remove any unnecessary rubbish that might cause fire danger.

General

Get a qualified electrical contractor to carry out installation and repairs to electrical equipment and fittings. Don’t take chances.
Take special precaution at holiday periods Christmas, Halloween.
Young children must never be left alone in the house, caravan, mobile home or car.

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This information is provided by National Safety Council and should not be regarded as an interpretation of the law on the subject.

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Cleaning Paving Tips

2008-02-06T11:25:00.000Z

General Dirt
Scrubbing with a stiff brush using a mild detergent and hot water is normally sufficient to remove this.

Heavy Staining
Proprietary cleaners are available. Many are acid based and therefore should be used with caution, as they may damage the paving. If they have to be used, test a small area first before an overall application and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. These can be obtained from Builders Providers.

Oil Stains
Oil penetrates readily into most surfaces and once staining occurs it is difficult to deal with.
Do not wipe as this drives the oil deeper into the surface.
Stains should be removed promptly by soaking up with an absorbent material, eg. a paper towel.
If the stain persists, use a proprietary cleaner in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.
Should staining be substantial, it may prove necessary to replace the affected area.

Power Washing
This is not normally recommended, but if it must be used, observe the following:
Remove loose debris.
Test a small area first.
The lance should be held at no more than 30 degree angle and a medium pressure selected.
Any jointing sand which is removed must be replaced.

Proprietary cleaners are available from Builders Providers

Power Wasing Equipment is availble from your local Tool Hire

Heat Sources

2008-02-05T12:06:00.001Z

The technical and economic performance of a heat pump is closely related to the characteristics of the heat source. An ideal heat source for heat pumps in buildings has a high and stable temperature during the heating season, is abundantly available, is not corrosive or polluted, has favourable thermophysical properties, and its utilisation requires low investment and operational costs. In most cases, however, the availability of the heat source is the key factor determining its use. The table on the right below presents commonly used heat sources.

Ambient and exhaust air, soil and ground water are practical heat sources for small heat pump systems, while sea/lake/river water, rock (geothermal) and waste water are used for large heat pump systems.

Table 1: Commonly used heat sources
Heat source	Temperature Range (°C)
Ambient air	-10 - 15
Exhaust air	15 - 25
Ground water	4 - 10
Lake water	0 - 10
River water	0 - 10
Sea water	3 - 8
Rock	0 - 5
Ground	0 - 10
Waste water and effluent	>10

Ambient air is free and widely available, and it is the most common heat source for heat pumps. Air-source heat pumps, however, achieve on average 10-30% lower seasonal performance factor (SPF) than water-source heat pumps. This is mainly due to the rapid fall in capacity and performance with decreasing outdoor temperature, the relatively high temperature difference in the evaporator and the energy needed for defrosting the evaporator and to operate the fans.

In mild and humid climates, frost will accumulate on the evaporator surface in the temperature range 0-6°C, leading to reduced capacity and performance of the heat pump system. Coil defrosting is achieved by reversing the heat pump cycle or by other, less energy-efficient means. Energy consumption increases and the overall coefficient of performance (COP) of the heat pump drops with increasing defrost frequency. Using demand defrost control rather than time control can significantly improve overall efficiencies.
Exhaust (ventilation) air is a common heat source for heat pumps in residential and commercial buildings. The heat pump recovers heat from the ventilation air, and provides water and/or space heating. Continuous operation of the ventilation system is required during the heating season or throughout the year. Some units are also designed to utilise both exhaust air and ambient air. For large buildings exhaust air heat pumps are often used in combination with air-to-air heat recovery units.
Ground water is available with stable temperatures (4-10°C) in many regions. Open or closed systems are used to tap into this heat source. In open systems the ground water is pumped up, cooled and then reinjected in a separate well or returned to surface water. Open systems should be carefully designed to avoid problems such as freezing, corrosion and fouling. Closed systems can either be direct expansion systems, with the working fluid evaporating in underground heat exchanger pipes, or brine loop systems. Due to the extra internal temperature difference, heat pump brine systems generally have a lower performance, but are easier to maintain. A major disadvantage of ground water heat pumps is the cost of installing the heat source. Additionally, local regulations may impose severe constraints regarding interference with the water table and the possibility of soil pollution.
Ground-source systems are used for residential and commercial applications, and have similar advantages as (ground) water-source systems, i.e. they have relatively high annual temperatures. Heat is extracted from pipes laid horizontally or vertically in the soil (horizontal/vertical ground coils), and both direct expansion and brine systems can be used. The thermal capacity of the soil varies with the moisture content and the climatic conditions. Due to the extraction of heat from the soil, the soil temperature will fall during the heating season. In cold regions most of the energy is extracted as latent heat when the soil freezes. However, in summer the sun will raise the ground temperature, and complete temperature recovery may be possible.
Rock (geothermal heat) can be used in regions with no or negligible occurrence of ground water. Typical bore hole depth ranges from 100 to 200 metres. When large thermal capacity is needed the drilled holes are inclined to reach a large rock volume. This type of heat pump is always connected to a brine system with welded plastic pipes extracting heat from the rock. Some rock-coupled systems in commercial buildings use the rock for heat and cold storage. Because of the relatively high cost of the drilling operation, rock is seldom economically attractive for domestic use.
River and lake water is in principle a very good heat source, but has the major disadvantage of low temperature in winter (close to 0°C). Great care has to be taken in system design to avoid freezing of the evaporator.
Sea water is an excellent heat source under certain conditions, and is mainly used for medium-sized and large heat pump installations. At a depth of 25-50 metres, the sea temperature is constant (5-8°C), and ice formation is generally no problem (freezing point -1°C to -2°C). Both direct expansion systems and brine systems can be used. It is important to use corrosion- resistant heat exchangers and pumps and to minimise organic fouling in sea water pipelines, heat exchangers and evaporators, etc.
Waste water and effluent are characterised by a relatively high and constant temperature throughout the year. Examples of possible heat sources in this category are effluent from sewers (treated and untreated sewage water), industrial effluent, cooling water from industrial processes or electricity generation, condenser heat from refrigeration plants. The major constraints for use in residential and commercial buildings are, in general, the distance to the user, and the variable availability of the waste heat flow. However, waste water and effluent serve as an ideal heat source for industrial heat pumps to achieve energy savings in industry

Getting Electricity connected in Ireland

2008-02-04T12:09:00.000Z

Getting Electricity connected in Ireland is carried out by ESB networks regardless of which company you plan to deal with. Below is a step by step guide in the process of getting connected.

You have made the decision to build your own home. The site has been selected and the plans drawn up.

Follow this step-by-step guide to get your new home connected to the electricity network.

Note: If your new home is part of a housing scheme development, your builder will have already made an application for an electricity connection.

Note: This process also applies to farmers who wish to connect a load of less than 30 Kilovolt-Amperes (kVA), (sometimes referred to as 30 Kilowatts).

Step 1: Get Planning Permission	Ensure you have obtained full planning permission for your new home from your local authority. We cannot proceed unless this has been obtained.
Step 2: Get an Application Form	Complete the ESB Networks Application Form number NC2. Download the Application Form NC2 (PDF 76Kb) or CallSave 1850 372 757 to request a copy.
Step 3(a): Get an Ordnance Survey Map Step 3(b): Get a Site Plan	Obtain an Ordnance Survey map (scale 1:2500-1:10560) that shows the location of your new home. Mark the location of your new home with a red pen. Obtain a detailed site plan (scale 1:100-1:500) showing your new home. You should be able to get both of the above from your builder or architect. Photocopies are acceptable.
Step 4: Check Your Site	Check your site to see if any overhead electricity lines are crossing it If so, you must contact ESB Networks on CallSave 1850 372 757 to get them moved. How to get an overhead electricity line moved
Step 5: Return the Application Form	Send the completed Application Form NC2, the Ordnance Survey map and the site plan in a single envelope to the following address: ESB Network Services Bureau, PO Box 29, Garrycastle, Athlone, Co. Westmeath, Ireland
Step 6: Receive a Quotation	When we receive the Application Form (and site maps/plans) we will prepare a written quotation, including terms & conditions for connection. This pack will include: The costs payable. Information on the connection process and general conditions. Specifications to help you to lay "ducts" within your site and position an outdoor meter box. A unique Meter Point Reference Number (MPRN). This is an important number required by you and your electrical contractor. See a list of all ESB Networks' charges. Quotations for Houses in a Rural Area over 500 metres from the Medium Voltage Electricity Network If your new house is in a rural area and is within 500m distance of the Medium Voltage network, we normally do not need to visit the site in order to prepare a quotation. In this case, we will issue a quotation within 7 working days of receiving your completed application. Quotations for Houses in a Rural Area over 500 metres from the Medium Voltage Electricity Network For a new house in a rural area that is a distance more than 500m from our Medium Voltage network, an ESB Networks' Designer will need to carry out a site inspection to assess the network and prepare a costing. We normally send you a quotation within 15 working days of receiving your completed application. Note: Charges for a standard 12kVA connection within 500 metres (rural) or 50 metres (urban) distance are set out in the document Charges for Connection to the Distribution System (PDF 422Kb). Quotations for Houses in an Urban or Suburban Location If your site is within an urban area, a site visit is generally not required if the new connection point is within 50m distance of our Low Voltage network. Note: Charges for a standard 12kVA connection within 500 metres (rural) or 50 metres (urban) distance are set out in the document Charges for Connection to the Distribution System (PDF 422Kb). Charges for connections outside these distances will be established based on a site visit.
Step 7: Return Payment	Once you have received a quotation, you must post your payment (in the envelope provided) to: ESB Network Services Bureau, Garrycastle, Athlone, Co. Westmeath. Cheque, postal order and bank drafts are acceptable. (No cash). Once payment has been received, a detailed design will be carried out and the necessary permissions and wayleaves will be sought from landowners. Only when these permissions have been received can construction of your connection commence. Please be aware that in some cases it may be necessary for ESB Networks to erect a new pole on your site within 50 metres of the outdoor meter cabinet at your new house.
Step 8: Complete the Connection	If no significant extra work is required, we will generally complete your connection within 12 weeks after payment has been received. In order to achieve this target, the following 2 things must take place: Your E.T.C.I. Certificate will be provided by your electrical contractor on completion of the wiring of your new house. A notification of this validated wiring certificate from your contractor's regulatory body must be received electronically by ESB Networks at least two weeks before the end of this 12 week period. 2. You must contact ESB Networks at least two weeks before the end of this 12 week period to submit the Duct Completion Certificate which will confirm that the earth trench and outdoor meter cabinet has been provided for the electricity meters as per our ESB Networks' specification. To Contact Us call 1850 372 757.
Step 9: Go Live!	Once all of the above requirements have been met, your new connection can be made live. Your electrical contractor is then responsible for making the power live in your new home once the new connection has been completed by ESB Networks. The electrical contractor will be informed by text message when the power is live, provided a mobile phone number has been supplied on the application form. Remember, you must make a separate application to an electricity supplier in order to make sure electricity is available. View a list of all electricity suppliers on the CER web site.

Information Supplied By ESB Networks.

Back to Homepage

Choosing Windows And Doors

2008-02-03T17:53:00.000Z

The right choice of windows and doors can not only improve the appearance of your new home, but also its insulation and security.

Windows are generally made from one of the following materials:

Timber (softwood or hardwood), aluminium or plastic (PVC-U).

Softwood is the cheapest option; however it will soon deteriorate if not painted regularly and also tends to warp with changes of temperature.

Hardwood is far more durable and also offers good thermal insulation.

It also needs regular maintenance, but one coat of preservative wood stain makes this an easier task than painting. Hardwood is expensive and can cost the same as top quality PVC-U.

Aluminium is the strongest maintenance-free window material, but as on its own is a poor insulator, so most manufacturers offer some sort of thermal barrier (like thin PVC-U) to help prevent condensation forming on the frames.

PVC-U frames come in white and in wood-grain finish, but unlike wood you don't have to paint them.

Glass

[image #3 align=right]Just as important as the frames is your choice of glass as this can help reduce heat loss and improve energy efficiency. With standard double-glazing, the air in the cavity between the two layers of glazing acts as an insulator. Replacing the air with an insulating gas like Argon or Krypton will increase thermal performance.

Coat the glass facing the inside with a reflective coating and this is improved even more.

If over-heating is a concern, then specify glass with a coating on the inside so the sun's rays are reflected back.

To improve sound insulation increase the size of the cavity between the two panes of glass.

Triple glazing can also help here, as the extra weight of the window will reduce sound vibrations.

Remember: glass is not only for looking through - but looking at. Why not go for stained glass for some of the windows in your new home?

Doors

With front doors, hardwood is the most popular choice, although other material options like glazed PVC-u composite doors and steel doors benefit from being very secure and virtually maintenance-free, and can, if you choose, be made to appear like wood.

Internal doors are usually made from softwoods. To increase the sense of light in your home consider using glazed internal doors too. Save space by choosing sliding or folding doors around the home.

So which do you choose modern uPVC or traditional timber? Well, there are pros and cons to both, but ultimately it comes down to personal preference and deciding which would suit your home the best.

uPVC:

Frames are re-enforced with steel for maximum durability and strength.

High security hinges and features.

Excellent weather resistance and ease of maintenance.

Incorporated technology to improve the overall performance of the glass unit.

Significantly reducing condensation.

Can achieve a traditional look with new sash window design and wood grain effects.

Timber:

A traditional look and feel, produced from a more sustainable source.

Re-designed products are now more durable and give more performance than ever before.

New developments in paint and coatings technology can bring dramatic reductions in maintenance.

The energy needed to transform trees into windows is lower, as are disposal costs when the windows reach the end of their life.

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Get Your Business Advertised for less than €5 per week

2008-02-01T15:33:00.000Z

75,000 people vist Cmpletehome.ie every month. With rates starting at less than €5 per week can your business afford not to be listed on Irelands fastest growing home Services Portal.

Frequently Asked Questions.

What is the Cost?

Advertisement Rate Card.

2 County Listing €247.50 Per Annum. (Only €4.76 per week)
4 County Listing €337.50 Per Annum. (Only €6.50 per week)
6 County Listing €442.50 Per Annum (Only €11.35 per week)
Nationwide Listing €746.25 Per Annum (Only €14.35 per week)

What do I get for my subscription?

Each member has there unique webpage which is fully editable by the member which allows them to promote new products, sales etc whenever they wish at no extra cost.

Your page also has a request a quotation feature which forwards messages to either your phone or email with the enquiry.

Completehome.ie has an extensive marketing program both online and print media.

Offers businesses with no website access to the Internet world at a fraction of the cost.

Offers businesses with webite an invaluble SEO tool to promote there site and services.

Are there any hidden cost?

No. Your annual subscription covers everything.

What benefits has Completehome.ie over other advertising medians?

At rates starting at less than €5 per week it is very keenly priced.

Unlike other Local directories or advertisers Completehome.ie is a national based directory which allows our members to advertise to people who have a property or are considering buying or building a property in there area to visitors from anywhere in the world.

Offers a Localised Service. (Search By County)

How does a business join?

You can sign up by credit card online by clicking here.

You can pay by direct Debit mandate by clicking here.

You can forward us your details with payment by clicking here.

What Traffic does Completehome.ie receive?

Completehome.ie receives 75,000 visitors per month viewing a total of 230,000 pages.

We also have a portal on the RTE.ie Website which gives us access to over 1 million visitors per month.

How many Services can I List in?

With Completehome.ie you can list in as many categories as you feel best describes your business. You are only charged by the county Listing as above.

What are the payment options?

You can pay quarterly by Direct Debit.

Getting Electricity connected in Ireland

2008-01-31T10:54:00.000Z

Getting Electricity connected in Ireland is carried out by ESB networks regardless of which company you plan to deal with. Below is a step by step guide in the process of getting connected.

You have made the decision to build your own home. The site has been selected and the plans drawn up.

Follow this step-by-step guide to get your new home connected to the electricity network.

Step 1: Get Planning Permission	Ensure you have obtained full planning permission for your new home from your local authority. We cannot proceed unless this has been obtained.
Step 2: Get an Application Form	Complete the ESB Networks Application Form number NC2. Download the Application Form NC2 (PDF 76Kb) or CallSave 1850 372 757 to request a copy.
Step 3(a): Get an Ordnance Survey Map Step 3(b): Get a Site Plan	Obtain an Ordnance Survey map (scale 1:2500-1:10560) that shows the location of your new home. Mark the location of your new home with a red pen. Obtain a detailed site plan (scale 1:100-1:500) showing your new home. You should be able to get both of the above from your builder or architect. Photocopies are acceptable.
Step 4: Check Your Site	Check your site to see if any overhead electricity lines are crossing it If so, you must contact ESB Networks on CallSave 1850 372 757 to get them moved. How to get an overhead electricity line moved
Step 5: Return the Application Form	Send the completed Application Form NC2, the Ordnance Survey map and the site plan in a single envelope to the following address: ESB Network Services Bureau, PO Box 29, Garrycastle, Athlone, Co. Westmeath, Ireland
Step 6: Receive a Quotation	When we receive the Application Form (and site maps/plans) we will prepare a written quotation, including terms & conditions for connection. This pack will include: The costs payable. Information on the connection process and general conditions. Specifications to help you to lay "ducts" within your site and position an outdoor meter box. A unique Meter Point Reference Number (MPRN). This is an important number required by you and your electrical contractor. See a list of all ESB Networks' charges. Quotations for Houses in a Rural Area over 500 metres from the Medium Voltage Electricity Network If your new house is in a rural area and is within 500m distance of the Medium Voltage network, we normally do not need to visit the site in order to prepare a quotation. In this case, we will issue a quotation within 7 working days of receiving your completed application. Quotations for Houses in a Rural Area over 500 metres from the Medium Voltage Electricity Network For a new house in a rural area that is a distance more than 500m from our Medium Voltage network, an ESB Networks' Designer will need to carry out a site inspection to assess the network and prepare a costing. We normally send you a quotation within 15 working days of receiving your completed application. Note: Charges for a standard 12kVA connection within 500 metres (rural) or 50 metres (urban) distance are set out in the document Charges for Connection to the Distribution System (PDF 422Kb). Quotations for Houses in an Urban or Suburban Location If your site is within an urban area, a site visit is generally not required if the new connection point is within 50m distance of our Low Voltage network. Note: Charges for a standard 12kVA connection within 500 metres (rural) or 50 metres (urban) distance are set out in the document Charges for Connection to the Distribution System (PDF 422Kb). Charges for connections outside these distances will be established based on a site visit.
Step 7: Return Payment	Once you have received a quotation, you must post your payment (in the envelope provided) to: ESB Network Services Bureau, Garrycastle, Athlone, Co. Westmeath. Cheque, postal order and bank drafts are acceptable. (No cash). Once payment has been received, a detailed design will be carried out and the necessary permissions and wayleaves will be sought from landowners. Only when these permissions have been received can construction of your connection commence. Please be aware that in some cases it may be necessary for ESB Networks to erect a new pole on your site within 50 metres of the outdoor meter cabinet at your new house.
Step 8: Complete the Connection	If no significant extra work is required, we will generally complete your connection within 12 weeks after payment has been received. In order to achieve this target, the following 2 things must take place: Your E.T.C.I. Certificate will be provided by your electrical contractor on completion of the wiring of your new house. A notification of this validated wiring certificate from your contractor's regulatory body must be received electronically by ESB Networks at least two weeks before the end of this 12 week period. 2. You must contact ESB Networks at least two weeks before the end of this 12 week period to submit the Duct Completion Certificate which will confirm that the earth trench and outdoor meter cabinet has been provided for the electricity meters as per our ESB Networks' specification. To Contact Us call 1850 372 757.
Step 9: Go Live!	Once all of the above requirements have been met, your new connection can be made live. Your electrical contractor is then responsible for making the power live in your new home once the new connection has been completed by ESB Networks. The electrical contractor will be informed by text message when the power is live, provided a mobile phone number has been supplied on the application form. Remember, you must make a separate application to an electricity supplier in order to make sure electricity is available. View a list of all electricity suppliers on the CER web site.

Information Supplied By ESB Networks.

Timber Frame versus Concrete Home

2008-01-29T10:48:00.000Z

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There are two very different approaches to housebuilding and these two methods have existed side by side for centuries. The first is to use heavyweight materials like stone, brick or concrete, and to use a team of masons to assemble them into a house. The second is to use lightweight framing materials, traditionally wood, sometimes steel, to build a frame and then to cover it all with some weatherproof cladding: the work is predominantly carpentry.

The Masonry House

The key difference between masonry built homes and timber framed ones is the material used to build the inner, load-bearing walls. The outer, facing walls are not affected: you can use any external walling material with either build method. In fact, it is usually impossible to tell from a visual inspection whether a house is masonry built or timber frame.

However, the way the houses are built is quite different. A masonry house is constructed by bricklayers, building up both internal and external walls, a course at a time. They fix the insulation inside the cavity between the two leafs of the external walls as they go: they may also fix the door frames and the windows as they work up. They stop at first floor level and call the carpenters in to place the floor joists, though sometimes the floor is pre-cast concrete, craned into site. The bricklayers return to build up to roof level and then leave again, whilst the carpenters return to build the roof. If the design includes gable walls, the bricklayers return for a third time to complete the wall building process.

The load-bearing inner skin walls and any load-bearing internal partition walls are constructed in concrete blockwork. Non-load-bearing walls are built either in blockwork, or timber studwork. Services such as wiring and plumbing are fixed to, or chased into, the blockwork and covered by the plasterers.

Masonry Pros
* Easy to design — architects like it
* Readily understood by the building trade
* Materials cheap and readily obtainable
* Forgiving of errors — foundations don’t have to be accurate
* Slightly easier to make alterations and additions
* Inherently good soundproofing and fire resistance
* Traditional hard plastered walls an option if desired

Masonry cons
* Harder to incorporate thermal insulation in external walls
* Awkward cavity details
* Prone to inaccuracy and defects
* More likely to suffer from settlement and shrinkage cracks
* Slow to build and prone to delays from bad weather
* Wet trades create more mess on site and require drying out time

The Timber Framed House

In contrast, a timber framed house is built by carpenters. With the exception of the chimney, all the structural elements above ground level are built using timber. This can all be done on site, in the American way, known as stickbuilding, or the panel building can be carried out off site in a factory, — almost all our timber framed homes are built in factories. This greatly reduces the work of the on-site carpentry team who have to do little more than assemble the panels, a task that typically takes no more than a few days as opposed to the several weeks needed to build a masonry superstructure. The panels often have the windows and doors already in place. Some methods supply fully finished walls and roofs but the typical timber frame house has open panels; a semi-finished state that has to be insulated and cabled on site before the plasterers cover the inner walls with a wall-lining board.

If the house requires a brick or blockwork facing, the bricklayers come in after the timber frame is fully erected. They can work on the outside whilst the finishing trades go on inside and the roofers work overhead.

A typical timber frame wall consists of a framework of timber studs, frequently 90mm deep, boxed over with a sheet of plywood which is itself covered with a layer of waterproof building paper which deflects rainwater away from the frame. The voids between the timber studwork are filled with insulation and on the inside a sheet of polythene known as a vapour control layer is fixed before the whole thing is faced with plasterboard.

Timber Frame Pros
* Prefabricated superstructure erected quickly once on site
* Tends to be built to far tighter tolerances, making fitting out quicker and easier
* Weather delays reduced
* Less shrinkage and settlement
* Inherently good thermal insulation
* Easier to run services through
* Wall cladding is taken off the critical path

Timber Frame cons
* More complex to design — tends to be done by specialists
* Often lengthy lead-in times waiting for kits to be assembled in a factory
* Still not well understood by many Irish builders.
* Needs additional materials for adequate soundproofing
* Can’t have a solid (concrete) first floor
* Requires more accurate foundations
* Finance issues: large sums required upfront by many suppliers

The Main Differences

Virtually all new houses in this country have a foundation built out of concrete and a roof built out of timber, so all homes are to some extent both masonry and timber frame. The question that exercises us here is where to make the switch from one material to the other. Should it be up at the eaves (masonry builds) or down at ground floor level (timber frame)? Over the centuries we have used both methods but in the 19th and 20th centuries, brick and, later, blockwork came to predominate. However, developments in timber frame building methods in Scandinavia and North America have been introduced into Ireland and timber frame has slowly but surely been gaining market share since the 1960s. In Ireland it’s growing at a prodigious rate and in England and Wales timber frame would account for more than the 10% of new homes it already takes if there were more factories up and running to meet the demand.

Builders like several aspects of timber frame. It’s a dry building system, which is erected very quickly (usually in a matter of days) to engineering tolerances, enabling other trades to get on with their work both inside and outside without getting in each others’ way. However, timber frame’s strength – factory built homes – is also arguably its greatest weakness, too, in that the building of the superstructure is taken away from the site crew and into the hands of a specialist sub-contractor, the timber frame company. A good one will make the whole job run smoothly: a bad one will cause far more work and disruption as deadlines are missed and materials fail to materialise. If you choose to work with a timber frame company, do check on their past performance and also their payment terms, as you will in all probability be asked to pay a large amount of the total sum owing before taking delivery of the frame. If you are borrowing to fund the build, you need to let your lenders be aware of this fact.

How Do Costs Compare?
The very fact that both methods are widely used throughout the country indicates that there is little to choose between the methods on cost grounds. If one system were significantly cheaper, it would rapidly predominate.

It used to be held that timber frame was a little bit more expensive but that you tended to claw back the difference by reducing the length of the build — it costs money just to keep a building site up and running. But in recent years we have seen great hikes in labour costs, so the cost differential has all but been eliminated. On the other hand, the strongly growing demand for timber frame has caused a capacity shortage and, consequently, the lead time required to get the frame to site has got longer and longer — in some cases stretching out to 12 or even 16 weeks, so the speed advantage of timber frame is diminished, though the amount of time spent on site is still reduced.

Energy Efficiency

You will be required to meet the same levels of energy efficiency whatever system you use to build your house. However, because its external walling is largely hollow, it is cheaper and easier to build very high insulation levels into a timber frame house. You can pack the insulation into the void between the timber studs, whereas with block walls you have to fit the insulation either side of the blockwork. Usually this is done in the cavity between the inner and outer leaves of the wall but, as insulation requirements have increased, the cavity has got wider and wider. Whilst masonry systems will always be able to cope with the levels of insulation demanded, it is set to become more awkward to achieve.

However, thermal insulation is only part of the picture. An energy efficient building also needs to be well sealed; otherwise the heat will leak away through air gaps and unplanned drafts. Many modern building practices in both masonry and timber frame tend to increase the likelihood of air gaps: it’s particularly common where you use modular materials like plasterboard and beam and block floors where you encounter many joints. One solution is to pay close attention to vapour barriers, a detail often skated over by subcontractors. Another is to use solid concrete floors and wet plastered walls.

Just as timber framed homes can be designed to be very quiet, masonry homes can be designed to be very energy efficient.

What’s soundproofing like in a timber frame house?
Noise transmission between rooms is one of the major reasons self-builders give for choosing masonry construction over timber frame. The perception is that timber frame houses have thin, hollow walls and that you will be able to hear what goes on in every room in the house. The reality is more complex. Dense, heavy materials do absorb sound well: masonry materials will always have this advantage. However, the trend in all forms of housebuilding over the past 50 years has been to use lighter and lighter materials, notably chipboard floors and plasterboard on walls. Consequently, the sound absorption characteristics of the average modern house, whatever the construction, is poorer than it was a century ago.

It’s not difficult to improve on this. There are lots of walling and flooring materials designed to absorb sound. Specifying masonry walls and pre-cast concrete floors is one solution but not the only one: look also at resilient strips and bars, soundcheck boards and acoustic insulation.
Also pay attention to the detailing of your home at the design stage: avoid holes in the ceilings under bedrooms (common with downlighters), build cupboard space into walls, use soft materials like carpet in preference to wood or stone on floors. You can build quiet homes using any construction method: conversely, not all masonry homes are quiet. If you really are concerned about noise levels within your home, pay attention to the issue at the design stage.

External Wall Finishes

As far as external wall claddings are concerned, you can choose any facing material to work with any backing. Brick, stone, timber, tile, render — all can be applied to blockwork and all can be applied to timber framed backgrounds. However, there are significant cost implications, which are sometimes overlooked.

Brick: Often thought of as the natural partner to blockwork (as in ‘brick and block’) but it’s just as easy to lay bricks against a timber frame. Some would argue that it’s even easier because you are usually working with an empty cavity, whereas blockwork cavities have to be packed with insulation, placed in by the bricklayers as the walls go up.

Stone: If the stone to be used can stand up as an independent leaf of a cavity wall — like cropped or reconstituted stone, or is being built up against a backing block to form the outer leaf of a cavity wall, there is nothing to choose between masonry or timber framing. Random stone walling, when built directly against a fully filled cavity will, however, be cheaper to build against masonry, as a backing block will not be required.

Render or harling: Like stone, it’s often set against an outer skin of blockwork, even when the inner skin is built of timber frame. However, there are steel meshes available which can be nailed onto battens around a timber frame which will take a three coat render: this is much quicker than having to build a blockwork wall around the frame though cost-wise there doesn’t appear to be much between them.

Tile, timber and lightweight claddings: There are some significant cost and time savings to be had from placing these against a timber frame background because they can be directly applied to a battened-out frame, whereas with masonry systems they need to be applied to an outer wall. With timber frame, the cost of building a second outer wall is eliminated and the overall wall width is minimised.

Is There a Prejudice Against Timber Frame?
For mortgage purposes and insurance, most lenders and insurers rank timber frame equally with blockwork. As far as resale values are concerned, there appears to be no difference at all between the two systems. However, some individuals have their own preferences, built up from their own experience or things they have heard about either system.

Does the Build System Affect My Internal Wall Finishes?
Yes, but only slightly. If you build with a framing system, then you must cover your walls with a board. If you use blockwork, then you have a choice: you can either use a board, or a wet render and skim finish. Does it make any difference? Cost-wise there is little to choose between them so it largely comes down to preference. Some people prefer the hardness and solidity of a traditional plaster finish but the majority of people don’t even notice how their walls are finished. With boards, you can, in any event, have a traditional wet plaster skim finish: the 3mm thick topcoat can be applied to both plasterboards and cement renders. Additionally, any surface treatments that you might wish to apply to your internal walls, such as ceramic tiles or timber panelling, will sit fine on either wall type.

On ceilings, of course, you have to have a board finish whichever method you choose to build with. The trend here is to not skim the finish but to tape the joints between the boards and to sand and paint over the surface: this eliminates the wet trades altogether and also minimises surface cracking, a common defect in plasterwork in new homes.

Featured in the April 2005 issue of Homebuilding & Renovating magazine. Words: Mark Brinkley.

Lawn Drainage

2008-01-28T14:21:00.000Z

PRINTABLE VERSION PDF

LAWN DRAINAGE

Poor drainage in the garden can have many causes. If you have a high seasonal water table you will find that the water sits on or close to the surface during periods of high rainfall. If your soil structure is heavy, this too can reduce soil permeability and cause poor drainage. Low points in the garden, can allow water to collect and drain poorly. Walking on your poorly drained lawn when it's wet can further add to the problem because the wet soil compacts and loses its structure.

If the problem exists in only a small low point, it might be worthwhile considering turning a problem into a design feature by digging out a border and filling it with plants that love their feet to be wet. But if you want a lawn you can actually walk on after the rain without it turning into a mud bath, then you should install an underground drainage system of land drains.

Land drains are trenches consisting of single walled corrugated PVC-U pipe supplied perforated for the collection and removal of surface and sub surface water and gravel; they work by encouraging the water to enter the trench because the gravel provides less resistance than the surrounding soil. (Water will always travel to the area of least resistance if encouraged to do so). The trenches then carry the water away from the problem zone.

First you need to take a good look at your site and decide where you want to drain the water to. The thing to remember here is that water will not travel uphill so your trenches must finish downhill from where they start. It may be possible to 'daylight' your pipe into an area beyond your garden but there are certain restrictions attached to this. Even waste ground belongs to somebody so you have to check that the owner of the ground you plan to drain onto doesn't object. You can't drain onto a road either because water running off your property onto the road surface may cause cars to skid, nor should you drain into a river or stream as nutrients from your garden may upset the ecosystem and you definitely cannot drain into your neighbour's property thus transferring the problem onto them. You can daylight you drain if it is possible to slope the trench downhill until it comes up above ground and it's certainly the easiest way of dealing with the excess water.

If you can't daylight the drain, you can create a soak away. Dig a big hole - 1m x 1m by around 75cm deep would be fine. Lead your trenches into the hole and fill it full of gravel. The soak away serves to hold the water underground until it can drain away slowly through the sides and bottom of the soak away pit. Soakaways should be sited, if possible, in an area of the garden that is unused. Soakaways are fine for a small amount of water but they won't cope with large volumes so, if you are coping with water run-off from adjoining land, the chances are that, during periods of heavy rainfall, the soak away will fill up too fast and the water will back-up along the trench. Soakaways are a good choice if your garden slopes away from the house and, if this is your only option, you may want to think about having more than one soak away if you're coping with a lot of water.

If you don't have a place to put a soak away, or if the garden slopes towards the house, you will have to direct the water into the rainwater drain. This involves following the rain gutter pipe from your house until you can find a suitable place to break into it. You will need to put in a silt trap so that you don't block your drain and, preferably, a rodding point so that the drains can be cleared if there is a problem in the future. Be sure it is the rainwater drain and not the sewage pipe! This kind of work is best carried out by an expert. Ask a suitably qualified builder or landscaper to set this system up for you and check with your local council that it's okay to divert excess water in this way.

Once you have set up a place to which to divert the excess water, you will need to decide on the layout of your system. The most popular layout is a herringbone pattern with one or two vertical drains which have diagonal drains running into them. Remember all of the trenches should slope downhill towards the main trench.

The herringbone pattern is good because it allows the trenches to catch water all the way across the lawn but you can use any convenient pattern of drain as long as all the trenches slope downhill. You don't need too much of a slope. (The bubble on your spirit level touching the line will do fine). When planning your system, go with the lie of the land as much as possible - in other words, try to avoid digging a trench that goes against the surface slope. The distance between the trenches depends on the structure of your soil. In general, you can expect water to drain to around 2m on either side of each trench but this will be less in heavy soil.

Once you have your plan, start digging the trenches - 30-50cm deep and around a spade's width will do fine. Check the slope by putting a straight piece of wood onto two bricks in the bottom of the trench and put your spirit level onto the wood.

After the trenches have been dug and you are happy with the slope, etc., you need to put a layer of pea gravel into the bottom of the trench. Next, put in your perforated land drain pipe e.g. WavinCoil, which is a flexible, perforated pipe and you can get it from any builders merchants. A common misconception about land drain pipe is that it acts like a closed pipe and 'carries' water just like a closed pipe. Yes, it does carry water to an extent but, remember, it is perforated and therefore can't hold water as such. Its real purpose is to create a space within the trench into which water can flow but keep in mind it's the whole trench that carries the water and that perforated land drain pipe just isn't effective on its own, nor will it carry water anywhere if the trench itself isn't properly sloped.

After you have placed the pipe in the trench, add more pea gravel until it is completely covered. The pea gravel around the pipe helps to keep the trench open and acts as a filter for silt. When ordering your pea gravel, you should assume around 1 tonne of pea gravel per 15 metres of trench. Cover up your drains with a good layer of topsoil. If your drainage problem is caused by heavy soil then don't put the old soil on top of the drains. Use a nice graded sandy topsoil such as the type sold by turfing companies or you will undo some of the good you have done by impeding the surface water's entry to the drain. To further assist your lawn to drain, it is a good idea to returf over a layer of sand. The sand helps to improve surface drainage, and you can get a good level lawn this way.

Your drains may take a while to begin working to their full capacity. While you will probably notice an immediate improvement to your surface water problem (especially if you returf over sand), until the soil dries out and the air gets back into it, you won't appreciate the full effect.

Reproduced by kind permission of www.gardenzine.co.uk

How To Prune Trees

2008-01-25T11:17:00.000Z

How To Prune

Large trees aside, there are many pruning jobs that you can do on your own. In all cases, the key is to prune the unwanted branch while protecting the stem or trunk wood of the tree. Tree branches grow from stems at nodes and pruning always takes place on the branch side of a stem-branch node. Branches and stems are separated by a lip of tissue called a stem collar which grows out from the stem at the base of the branch. All pruning cuts should be made on the branch side of this stem collar. This protects the stem and the other branches that might be growing from it. It also allows the tree to heal more effectively after the prune. To prevent tearing of the bark and stem wood, particularly in the case of larger branches, use the following procedure:

1. Make a small wedge shaped cut on the underside of the branch just on the branch side of the stem collar. This will break the bark at that point and prevent a tear from running along the bark and stem tissue.

2. Somewhat farther along the branch, starting at the top of the branch, cut all the way through the branch leaving a stub end.

3. Finally, make a third cut parallel to and just on the branch side of the of the stem collar to reduce the length of the stub as much as possible.

A similar procedure is used in pruning one of two branches (or one large branch and a stem) joined together in a 'u' or 'v' crotch. This is known as a drop crotch cut. Make the first notch cut on the underside of the branch you're pruning well up from the crotch. For the second cut, cut completely through the branch from inside the crotch well up from the ridge of bark joining the two branches. Finally, to shorten the remaining stub, make the third cut just to one side of the branch bark ridge and roughly parallel to it.

When To Prune

The dormant season, late Autumn or winter, is the best time to prune although dead branches can and should be removed at any time. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequent stress to the tree. It also minimizes the risk of fungus infection or insect infestation as both fungi and insects are likely to be in dormancy at the same time as the tree. Finally, in the case of deciduous trees, pruning when the leaves are off will give you a better idea of how your pruning will affect the shape of the tree.

How Much To Prune

When deciding how much to prune a tree, as little as possible is often the best rule of thumb. All prunes place stress on a tree and increase its vulnerability to disease and insects. On no account, prune more than 25% of the crown and ensure that living branches compose at least 2/3 of the height of the tree. Pruning more risks fatally damaging your tree. In some cases, storm damage, height reduction to avoid crowding utility lines , your pruning choices are made for you. But even in these instances, prune as little as you can get away with.

lawn maintenance

2008-01-24T10:35:00.000Z

by Timothy Eisden

Great lawn maintenance can be a tough job, but there are a few simple things you can do on a regular basis to avoid having to rescue a "lawn gone bad". By then the work you'll have to put in is on a far major scale...

For managing your lawn in the best possible way, these are the main things to consider. For example, it really helps to scarify for weed control. Not only that, scarifying stimulates and fortifies lawn growth, of course in combination with proper feeding. Worm control is very important, because nothing attracts weed seeds more than worm casts. Utilizing a good fertilizer acts directly against weed growth and really helps your grass to be much stronger and healthier.

I know of people that only feed their lawn once a year. I say only, because that is not enough for the great lawn maintenance you want. It's essential that your lawn receives it's spring feed. When buying your fertilizer for the spring feed, make sure it has nitrogen in it along with phosphates and potash. A summer feed, if you got a lawn that looks bit tired, should be performed by applying a proprietary lawn care tonic or a fertilizer that's rich in nitrogen. It's recommended that your fall lawn feed include most of all potash and phosphates.

Watering your lawn once a week should be enough, unless it's remarkably hot. You could rely on the weather (rain) to do the watering for you, but when spring ends and summertime kicks in, your lawn experiences dry periods. You can easily spot when that happens; the grass color changes from beautiful green to brown-ish. Almost everybody know this, but I will mention it just in case: Always water your lawn early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when it's cooler. If you have a rotary sprinkler, even better.

Finally, proper mowing of your lawn is really important, but you already knew that, right? Well, you would be amazed of how many people out there go about mowing their lawn all wrong. Your lawn should be mowed regularly, because that's what keeps a "field of grass" looking attractive. Make sure your blades are sharp, and not set to low. The following lengths are usually applied: For grass that's a little more coarse, a 1 inch length can be maintained. Finer grass can be mowed to a 15 mm to 20 mm length. Operate the mower in one constant direction and at a smooth pace, with not back and forth movement. It's also recommended that you mow your lawn when the grass is dry, that way you won't have to deal so much with the mower clogging.

Good lawn maintenance requires a lot more detail, but these are the basics you should know to get started.

Weatherproofing Decks

2008-01-23T11:07:00.000Z

Weatherproofing Decks

by Allison Thomspson

It does not matter whether the climate you live in is hard winters or it's temperate, by weatherproofing your decking you make sure that it lasts longer and looks beautiful.

By taking a little time to make sure that your decking is properly protected really does make sense and getting started on weatherproofing the decking does not take much time either. All it requires is a minimum amount of materials and a lot of elbow grease (hard graft on your part). Firstly you should seal the deck for weatherproofing when it is first built and then again every few years to ensure that the wood continues to stay in the same condition.

Gathering the materials

It is preferable if you gather together all the materials you require for weatherproofing before you start the work, and it would be sensible to check the weather report as well. Certainly carrying out the work on a day when it is likely to rain is not the most suitable of plans. But if you find that everything checks out then get your materials together and start.

The materials that you will need to get the job done quickly and efficiently are a dust mask, a hose, safety glasses, a bucket of water with deck cleaner included in it, a belt sander and some sand paper, waterproofing staining sealer a paintbrush and a broom. If you want you can use a paint sprayer (you can either hire one or purchase one) and this will help to cut down the amount of time it takes to complete the task.

Preparation

You have your materials to hand the first thing you need to do is complete clean the deck, ensuring that you have cleaned out all the cracks and corners. If you should find any rough spots on the wood, then use the sander or sandpaper to smooth these down and always make sure you carefully remove any sawdust that is there with a broom. But please do not forget to put on your dust mask and safety glasses whilst carrying out any sanding works, although sawdust might not cause a major problem as you are only exposed to it for a short amount of time, it is better to be safe than sorry.

Then once the deck has been fully prepped you can move on to sealing it. However, please make sure that the deck is dry and all surface areas are clean, smooth and ready to go. So going over again for luck will not be a bad thing to do.

Applying the seal

Now you are going to apply the weatherproofing seal, but before you do ensure that you have read the manufacturer's instructions fully and if you intend to apply a coat of paint after sealing the deck then make sure that it will work with a paint undercoat.

You have the choice of applying the sealant with either a paintbrush or sprayer but make sure that you cover the entire deck and this means you will need to pay close attention to the beams, railings and wall supports if any are present. Then upon completion allow the deck to dry fully as per the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

You don't want to find that after spending a week or two building your deck that you have to wait yet more time before you can enjoy it. But by making sure that it has dried completely will ensure that the work you have carried out will provide you with many years of enjoyment, it may well be only a few hours or even a day that you have to wait before you really to start to feel the benefits of the decking, but isn't better that it will stay as beautiful as the day it was first installed.

How To Lay Paving

2008-01-22T10:15:00.000Z

How To Lay Paving

Drawing up the plan

If you are laying in a random laying pattern, as we are in this example, you will need to draw up a plan for the pattern itself. The plan will tell you what quantities of each of the three sizes to order and save you money by making sure you order the exact amount. For this example, we are using Bradstone's Old Riven paving slabs in three sizes - 600 x 450, 450 x 450 and 300 x 450. All three sizes fit together to create a nice random laying pattern with a traditional feel.

Materials

Gather together the following materials:

Cement mixer (available to hire from hire shops)
Three sizes of your chosen paving (quantities taken from your plan)
Spirit level
Spade and shovel
Float
Rubber hammer
Measuring tape
Sand
Cement
Type one (if required)

Preparing the site

Decide what will be your top level for the patio and where you want the water to go. In general, patios should fall away from the house and be level across the house so that the water never gathers at the house and causes dampness problems. You should also make sure that the patio does not come above the damp proof course in your house.

Dig out enough soil to accommodate the thickness of the slab itself and around 30mm for the mortar bed. If the ground is solid, you can go ahead and lay onto this since the mortar bed will provide a good base. However, if the ground is still soft, you will need to dig out a little more and lay a type one base to prevent the patio from sinking in the future.

Once you have dug out all you need to, you can lay a weed membrane over the soil to prevent weeds coming through the pointing gaps in the patio. A weed membrane is not essential but it is a good idea if you want to lessen the maintenance in the future. You must use a woven membrane designed for this purpose such as plantex. Plastic is not suitable for laying paving.

Mixing the mortar

It is best to lay decorative paving onto a full wet mortar bed. Decorative paving is thinner than traditional utility slabs and a full mortar bed ensures that there is no air underneath the slab thus preventing it from cracking in the future. Using this full mortar bed method as opposed to the 'five blob' method of laying also ensures that insects such as ants don't take up residence in the gaps under your slabs.

Using the cement mixer, mix up a good 4 to 1 mix of mortar - that is four parts sand to one part cement plus, of course, enough water to give you a consistency that is stiff enough to support the slab but soft enough to let you knock it down. Mixing mortar is a bit of an art form and you might need a few practices before you get it right.

Laying the slabs

Starting at the house, lay the slabs according to your plan. Put down a few spadefuls of mortar and use your float to get it roughly level. Lay the first slab onto the mortar and check, with your tape measure, that it is perfectly parallel with the house. With the rubber hammer, gently tap the slab down into the mortar until it is level across the way and with a slight fall away from the house.

Continue laying the slabs according to your plan and mark off the slabs you have laid on the plan so you know where you are. Keep checking your work with the spirit level to ensure there are no dips which will collect water and make sure too that there are no high edges for you to trip on.

It is best to point up as you go along using the same mortar mix that you are laying onto. However, you must stop laying every now and then and carefully wash off all the wet mortar with clean water. Never let wet mortar dry onto the slabs since this will stain most decorative paving. Be especially careful along the joints to get your work as clean as possible.

Finishing

When you have finished the patio, you can haunch up around it with a layer of mortar using your float. This will hold the edges in place and prevent them from slipping.

Soften the edges of your patio with gravel or planting. You can even leave out a few small slabs, as we have done, and plant low-growing matt forming plants such as thyme to break up the patio and add a little colour.

You should not walk on your newly laid patio for at least 48 hours to allow the mortar to set. To keep your patio looking great, you will need to pressure wash it every two or three years and, after you have done this, you should replace any loose mortar in the pointing gaps.

Building A Garden Fence

2008-01-17T15:48:00.000Z

Building a fence

An upright palisade fence, like the one pictured on the right, is one of the sturdiest fences you can build. Unlike panel fencing, it is much more resistant to wind because the gaps in between allow wind to pass through it, making it almost impossible for heavy storms to knock your fence over. Panel fences have the opposite effect, acting like a huge sail and taking the full force of the wind. If you are building a new fence or replacing one which has been storm damaged, you should consider building an upright palisade.

Our step by step guide below shows you how to build a 6ft (1.8m) fence. If you want a different height, you will need to alter the materials accordingly.

What you will need

Materials

2.4m (8ft)tanalised timber fence posts (4 x 4)
75mm x 38mm 3.6m lengths of treated off-sawn timber
100mm x 22mm lengths of treated off-sawn timber (cut to 1.8m lengths)
75mm galvanised nails
40mm galvanised nails
post mix

Tools

spade (preferring a hole digging or trench digging spade)
string line
spirit level
hammer
saw

Ordering the materials

You will be using 2.4m, 4 x 4 (100mmx100mm) posts. You should place a post every 1.8m so measure the distance you want to cover and divide by 1.8m, then add one extra. For the horizontal rails, you will be using three rails to span across two posts. So, divide the full length by 3.6 and multiply by 3. Vertical straps usually come already cut to 1.8m lengths. If not, ask your timber merchant to cut them to size for you. You will need roughly 10 of these per metre. Make sure all your timber is treated. Timber merchants will often describe this as 'green treated'.

Digging the fence post holes

Using a string line as a guide, dig the fence post holes slightly less than 1.8m apart (this will give you some tolerance when you go to set in the posts. You must make sure that every second post is 3.6m or under apart from centre to centre to ensure your horizontal rails will span two posts.

For 2.4m (8ft) fence posts, you are looking to get around 60cm (2ft) of the post into the ground so you should aim for around this depth of hole. Don't worry if you're not too exact, you will be cutting the tops of the fence posts when you finish the fence. Dig your holes as deep as possible and wide enough so that your post will sit in it with space all around for the post mix. If the ground you are digging is very soft, you should at least try to dig down to solid ground and, if this makes the hole too deep, you can fill it up to the required height with post mix.

Setting the posts

You will need an assistant for this part.

Start with the posts at each end of the run. We will be using ready mixed post mix because this is more convenient but, if you have a cement mixer, you can mix up your own concrete. Add a little of the post mix to the bottom of the hole before you place your post in it. Set each post into the ground, making sure the post is oriented to the fence line. You are going level each post on both planes - on the front face of the post and on the side face.

Keep on checking the level of the posts while you get your assistant to add the post mix to the hole. Follow the manufacturers instructions with regards to adding water to the mix. Finally, firmly tamp down the mix and re-level the posts. It is important the you are as accurate as you can be with your post levels since a squint post will show up on the finished fence.

Once you have your two end posts level and set, carefully tie your string line between them about half way up the posts. Make sure your line is nice and taut since you will use it to keep the rest of your posts running in a straight line.

Set in the rest of your posts, levelling them as before only this time you will need to make sure that the front face of each post is just touching the string line.

When you have finished, go back over each post and check the levels again before the leaving the post mix for one to two days to fully harden.

Adding the horizontal rails

You are going to use 3 rails to support the vertical straps and you will nail them onto the fence posts with even spaces between them. Start at the bottom and nail the first rail onto the posts at around 20 cm from the foot of where you want your fence to be. If you are working on level ground, you can use your level to level the rails but, if you are going to follow a slope with your fence, you should run your rails to match.

Put the top rail around 20cm from the top of your fence and then measure out the third so that it sits directly in the middle of the two. Continue in this way until you have railed up the full fence.

Nailing the vertical straps

You are going to start by nailing one strap at each end of the fence. It is essential that you make sure your first strap is plumb so that the fence will look nice and straight. Use your level to do this by placing it on the side of the strap. The straps should be double nailed at each rail. When you have done this, run a string line across the top of each strap and pull it taut. the string line will help keep your fence running straight at the top.

Choose the size of gap you want between each strap and find a long spacer of the correct size. For a nice small gap of 22mm, you can use the side of a spare fencing strap. This will give you good, even spacing between each strap. Using the string line to guide you, nail up all the straps. Because of the nature of off-sawn timber, your straps will not always be uniform all the way down so you should check that the straps are still running plumb every ten or so and make any necessary adjustments.

Finishing

When you have completed your fence, you will probably find that the posts are not all level at the top ( as shown in the above picture). Simply saw off the top of the posts using a slightly sloping cut so that the rain water will run off the top of the post and seal the cut with wood seal to protect the wood.

If you intend to stain your fence, you should do so as soon as possible while the wood is still clean. Treated wood doesn't have to be stained and will eventually fade to a silvery grey but, if you want a coloured fence then choose a stain that will still let the grain of the wood show through.

Complete Home

Process Of Buying A House In Ireland

Information

Public auction

Contracts for sale

Rates

Registration

Land Registry fees

Registration of Ownership

Other charges

Registry of Deeds fees

Spring Care For Your Lawn

Mowing

Aeration

Scarification

Overseeding

Moss Control

Additional Tasks

Removing Weeds

Repairing A Lawn

Repairing Damaged Grass Patches

Removing Weeds

Repairing Damaged Edges

Top Tips for building and renovating

Security In The Home.

Windows

Doors

Secure all doors

Keys

If you live in a flat

Shared entrances

Around the home

Outside lighting

Make it look like you are at home when you are out

If you’re going away:

Gardens, gates and fences

Passageways at the side and back of your home

Garages and sheds

Burglar alarms

Mark your belongings with your Address

New belongings

Home Security

Insurance

Fire safety

Be a good neighbour

If you are burgled

Security checklist

When you are away:

Wood Chip or Pellet Boilers

Measurements and Quantities

Solar Energy in Ireland

How To Bleed Your Central Heating System

Heating & Insulation Tips

Fire Safety In Your Home

1. The Escape Drill – Automatic Safety

Your Fire Drill at a Glance

2. Smoke Alarms Smoke - Turning an Enemy into an Ally

3. The Firesafety Survey - Prevention is the Best Firefighter

Living and Family Rooms

The Kitchen

The Bedrooms

Workshops, Utility and Storage Areas

General

Cleaning Paving Tips

Heat Sources

Getting Electricity connected in Ireland

Choosing Windows And Doors

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Getting Electricity connected in Ireland

Timber Frame versus Concrete Home

Lawn Drainage

PRINTABLE VERSION PDF

LAWN DRAINAGE

How To Prune Trees

lawn maintenance

Weatherproofing Decks

Weatherproofing Decks

Gathering the materials

Preparation