This was one of several desserts I prepared for Passover (more of those recipes to come this week). But I would also serve this to wrap up any meal in style— from Thursday night meatloaf, to a Saturday evening rack of lamb. Essentially, this is an intensely chocolate snowcone mellowed with smooth Godiva chocolate liqueur. Decadent!

Chocolate Granita is also a winner when I want to prepare a treat for my many gluten-free pals.

EASE OF PREPARATION: Pretty simple

Makes 4 servings

• 2 cups water
• 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, like the fair trade, organic product from Dagoba
• 1/3 cup sugar
• Pinch of ground nutmeg
• Pinch of ground cinnamon
• 2 tablespoons Godiva chocolate liqueur
• 1/2 cup barely sweetened whipped cream

1. Heat the first three ingredients in a saucepan until simmering and the sugar is melted. Remove from the heat and stir in all of the ingredients except the whipped cream. Cool.
2. Pour the mixture into an 8-inch by 8-inch metal baking pan.
3. Freeze the mixture until icy around the edges, about 45 minutes. Use a fork to rake the frozen edges toward the center. Repeat the raking several times, until frozen through, about 2 hours total.
4. Cover and keep frozen. Note: The granita can be made to this point up to 2 days before serving.

TO SERVE:

• Pour the granita into a martini glass, a frosted parfait glass, or a small dish. Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream.

Proscuitto-Wrapped Stuffed Pears

Proscuitto Wrapped Pear straight from the oven, photo M. Rodriguez

I absolutely love simple desserts, especially if they look and taste as decadent as this one. Start with firmly ripe pears, great ham like proscuitto di Parma from Italy, or Serrano or Iberico ham from Spain. Add your favorite soft cheese, a few minutes in the oven, and you’re ready to end a winter dinner party with panache.

This is delicious with a small glass of Spanish Oloroso sherry or proseco.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

Makes 6 servings

• 6 medium, ripe bosc or D’Anjou pears
• 10 to 12 thin slices top quality proscuitto (from Italy) or Iberico or Serrano ham (from Spain
• 6 ounces ripe Brie or Camembert
• 1/3 cup chopped pistachios
• 1/4 cup golden brown or Turbinado sugar
• 3 tablespoons melted sweet butter
• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 375° F.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

1. Use an apple corer or sharp paring knife to pierce through the bottom of each pear and remove the core and seeds, leaving the stem and exterior intact. Peel the pears.
2. Sprinkle about 1/2 tablespoon of brown sugar, then 1 tablespoon of nuts into the cavity of each pear. Fill the rest of the cavity with a chunk of Brie and press into place.
3. Brush the outside of each pear with melted butter and black pepper. Place on lined cookie sheet. Gently wrap ham around pears to cover.
4. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until pears are tender when pierced with a knife. Serve immediately.

Christopher Bollenbacher, mixing it up

In this age of inspired mixology, crafty bartenders have one hand on their muddler and the other on a chef’s knife. Even adventurous chefs are taking a shot at putting their passion into a cocktail shaker. Remarkable new cocktails are emerging from this blurry boundary between the bar and the kitchen. With fat washing, fruit and herbal infusions, seasonal ingredients, artisan and organic spirits⎯cocktails have become the poster child for America’s fascination with adventurous flavor.

Here, mixologist Christopher Bollenbacher talks about the current renaissance of that uniquely American invention⎯the cocktail⎯ and shares some recipes.

According to Bollenbacher, “Today’s bar chefs are using all of the traditional cocktail techniques enhanced with modern flavors and ideas to create fresh ways of introducing flavor into a glass. Bartending for some of us has become an art and a craft. We use fresh juices, exotic fruits and herbs instead of commercial products. I also make syrups, tinctures and infusions to create the products that suit my vision of the cocktails I want to create,” said Bollenbacher.

“I believe that the great bar chefs (and Seattle has some of the best) have really helped to create a new breed of sophisticated cocktail afficionados. I know that once someone has tasted a drink made with freshly squeezed juices, an exotic tincture, house made bitters, or infused syrup, they won’t settle for a cocktail made with bottled sweet and sour or commercial mixers,” Bollenbacher said.

Since he is such a proponent, I asked Christopher to clarify the difference between tinctures and bitters and to explain how they are best used.

“A tincture is an infusion of an herb or spice in alcohol (or sometimes, water). Some of the ones  I’ve created that are the most useful include nutmeg, clove, firewater (a multi-pepper blend), kaffir lime, anise, and vanilla. These are essentially my liquid spice cabinet.” He added, “In fact, most of these are great for cooking, too. They allow you to add a very controlled amount of one of these bold flavors to your dish.”

“A bitter is a tincture that has had a bittering agent like wormwood, gentian, horehound or citrus rind added to it. Bitters have been known since ancient times as stomach curatives and appetite stimulants, too.”

Following is a recipe for a peppery, potent, pink peppercorn tincture and a refreshing cocktail enlivened by the tincture.

Bollenbacher envisioning a cocktail

Roasted Roots and Seeds

Roasted Roots and Seeds Recipe

As I’ve become more educated about the sad state of our food supply—especially where animals are concerned—my creativity with vegetable cookery has been called forth.

This recipe is a great example of one simple way to coax ridiculously complex layers of flavor from the humble root vegetable. In fact, root vegetables are one of the most potentially meaty of any vegetable other than mushrooms.

The addition of good oil, herbs and high heat roasting creates a caramelized crust on these roots, while turning the centers creamy.  Add a mixture of toasted seeds and you have a sophisticated, warming side dish that’s perfect with roast farmstead chicken or goose (how I served this particular bowlful).  Or, serve this over quinoa or wild rice for a hearty, vegetarian supper.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

Makes 8 servings

• 3 pounds russet potatoes
• 1 1/2 pounds garnet yams
• 3 medium red onions
• 3 whole heads garlic
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 3 tablespoons sesame seeds
• 1 1/2 tablespoons fennel or cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon mustard seeds, preferably black

Pre heat oven to 450°
1. Cut potatoes and yams into rough, 1-inch chunks
2. Peel onions, leaving root end intact. Slice through root into 6 equal wedges.


onion cut through root end

3. Whisk together oil, lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, cumin and cayenne in a large bowl.
4. Break apart garlic heads into individual cloves (leaving paper on). Discard any tiny cloves.
5. Toss potatoes, yams and onion wedges in oil to coat. You need very little oil for this, so drip or shake excess off back into the bowl.
6. Arrange the coated chunks on a greased sheet pan (or 2). Leave plenty of space between pieces so they can brown and crisp evenly. Place in preheated oven for 25 minutes.


vegetables ready to go in the oven

7. Toss garlic cloves in remaining oil and set aside. Combine all seeds in a small bowl.
8. After 25 minutes, flip vegetables. Then scatter coated garlic cloves onto pans and continue roasting another 15 to 20 minutes until garlic is soft and vegetables are golden dark.
9. When the vegetables come out of the oven, begin to heat a small saute pan over over medium high heat.
10. Add the seed mixture to the hot pan and swirl briskly around the pan for 1 to 2 minutes, until they become aromatic. Stir in the remaining salt and sprinkle this mixture over the vegetables. Serve.

Healthy Mushroom Spinach Lasagna, photo N. Barisof

Think of this as an antidote to all of the holiday-themed recipes being posted right now. And HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!

I whipped this up (well, maybe not whipped) as my contribution to an all-girl potluck supper Sunday night. Someone requested that I make a “healthy” mushroom lasagna and I thought, Shoot, I can just throw that together, no problem. It turned out that in the 20 years since my last pan of lasagna, I’d forgotten just how many steps are required for a lovely lasagna. Oof.

However, I did ultimately succeed in building a truly decadent-tasting white lasagna with a considerable reduction in calories.  Definitely healthier than the norm and vegetarian, to boot.  After all, my girlfriends wouldn’t be thanking me Monday if I contributed an irresistible slab-o-calories for the main course.

One of the diners suggested I should submit this to a contest for lower calorie makeovers of comfort food. I just might. It’s that good!

This would be lovely for any holiday potluck or casual entertaining occasion like New Year’s Day.

Shiitake and portobello mushrooms

EASE OF PREPARATION: Worth the effort

Makes 12 generous servings

• 40 ounces fresh spinach, stems removed, well washed
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/3 cup minced shallots
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon each, salt and pepper
• 1 1/2 pounds mushrooms (shiitake, portobello, and/or chanterelles or hedgehog) cleaned and sliced
• 1/4 cup all purpose flour
• 4 cups 2% milk, very hot but not boiling
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 1/2 cups grated Parmesan
• 15 ounces, fresh, reduced fat ricotta
• one large egg, lightly beaten
• 3 cups grated reduced fat mozzarella
• 1 box no-cook lasagna noodles (or 1 pound fresh lasagna noodles, cooked al dente)

• Bring a large stockpot full of salted water to a boil. Add the spinach leaves and cook for a scant 2 minutes. Drain well, cool. Squeeze in a tea towel to remove all liquid.


Spinach in a tea towel

• In a large skillet melt 3 tablespoons of butter over medium high heat. Add the shallots and garlic and saute for 2 minutes to soften. Add the sliced mushrooms and season generously with salt and pepper. Saute the mushrooms, stirring, until the mushrooms are softened and have given off their liquid (about 5 to 6 minutes).


sautéing mushrooms with shallots and garlic

• To make the white sauce (pretty much a bechamel), in a large, heavy saucepan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter along with the olive oil over medium heat. Add the flour slowly and whisk into the hot fat, cook this for about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, slowly pour in the hot milk. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, nutmeg and 1 1/2 cups of Parmesan. Continue to cook until thick and smooth, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat to cool before using.
• Combine the ricotta, mozzarella and beaten egg in a bowl. Add 1/3 cup of white sauce and stir to blend.
• To assemble the lasagna: spread about 3/4 cup of white sauce across the bottom of a deep lasagna pan (13″ x 9″).
  

  first put sauce into pan

• Then lay down one layer of either no-cook. or cooked and drained, noodles. Cover with 1/3 of ricotta mixture, then 1/3 of mushrooms and 1/3 of spinach. Cover with about 1 cup of sauce and repeat layers. Finish with a layer of noodles and a final cup of sauce. Sprinkle with remaining Parmesan cheese, cover with foil and bake for 45 to 50 minutes at 375°. Remove foil to brown for an additional 10 to 12 minutes.


first layer, to be repeated

photo: Manny Rodriguez

The traditional flavors of the Caribbean are served up in this warming variation on an Irish coffee.  The Jamaica Nudge is the perfect tree-trimming, holiday party beverage.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

Makes 1 serving

• 4 to 6 ounces strong black coffee
• 1 ounce Kahlua
• 1 ounce Bacardi Gold rum
• 1 tablespoon whipped cream
• Pinch of ground allspice or nutmeg

• Pour the coffee into a mug. Add the alcohol and stir to mix. Top with whipped cream and a dusting of allspice.

I include a link below for Bainbridge Organic Distillers vodka. I haven’t tried it yet. But lord, is this local for me. I plan to lay my hands on a bottle asap. And I’m excited to say there are dozens of organic distilleries popping up across the country— maybe one near you: Elemental Vodka from Portland, Oregon, Prairie Organic from Minnesota, Square One from N. Carolina, Firefly from S. Carolina, Peak Spirits, Sunshine Vodka from Vermont, Blue Ice potato vodka from Idaho (the potato connection here probably isn’t a coincidence) to name a few.

Whether you’re celebrating Channukah (started last night), Christmas, or Kwanzaa, these cocktails will provide an infusion of holiday warmth.

Peppermint Patty Cocktail Recipe

Peppermint Patty , photo M. Rodriguez

Chocolate and mint is one of the world’s great flavor combinations. Try this festive cocktail the next time you entertain.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

Makes 1 cocktail

COCKTAIL

• 1 ounce white or bittersweet chocolate
• 1 1/2 ounces organic vodka from someone like Bainbridge Organic Distillers
• 1/4 ounce green crème de menthe
• 1/2 ounce white crème de cacao
• 1/4 ounce simple syrup

GLASS

• Martini, sour, or flute

GARNISH

• Sprig of fresh mint

1. Melt the chocolate on a saucer in the microwave on low.
2. Roll the rim of the glass through the melted chocolate to create a chocolate “lip.”
3. Combine all of the remaining ingredients (except for the garnish) in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake to chill.
4. Strain the cocktail into the chocolate-rimmed glass and garnish with fresh mint.

The Pointsettia Cocktail Recipe

Poinsettia Cocktail, photo M. Rodruguez

This is the perfect cocktail for any holiday party.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

Makes 1 cocktail

COCKTAIL

• 1 ounce dark Crusoe organic rum
• 1 1/2 ounces light Crusoe organic rum
• 1/2 ounce triple sec
• 1 ounce simple syrup
• 2 ounces pomegranate juice
• 1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice

GLASS

• Tall glass or large martini

GARNISH

• Skewer with alternating mint leaves and raspberries

1. Combine all of the ingredients (except for the garnish) and ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake to chill.
2. Strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with a raspberry-mint skewer and serve.

Grilled and brined bird ready for the table, photo Nicole

The finished dish, photo Nicole

Sesame Tuna Skewers with Wasabi Mayonnaise Recipe

This little appetizer really packs a punch. Delicate, rare tuna sauced with a zingy wasabi mayo is a surprise presented in this bite-sized nibble. I whipped them up the other night for a little fundraiser and my guests were wowed, to say the least.

Of course, tuna has become a hot button for environmentalists (like me). When I created this recipe, a  few years ago, it was enough to just specify fresh tuna—and hope you could find some. Now, it’s much easier to find fresh tuna in a nice store AND any conscientious shopper must also look for responsibly fished tuna.

Check the Monterey Aquarium Seafood Watch List before you shop.  But, as of this date, approved tuna are basically: albacore (from the U.S & Hawaii only) and Ahi (Bigeye if caught with longline or troll.) Avoid Bluefin tuna altogether.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

BEVERAGE TO ACCOMPANY: A dry, fruity rosé

Makes 24 skewers

WASABI MAYONNAISE

• 2 tablespoons wasabi paste or wasabi powder
• 1/2 cup mayonnaise (homemade would be delightful)
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

TUNA SKEWERS

• 1 pound absolutely fresh tuna steak  (3/4 to 1-inch thick)
• 2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
• 24 large slices pickled ginger
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 tablespoon white or black sesame seeds

1. Whisk the wasabi paste and lemon juice into the mayonnaise until well blended. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. (The wasabi mayonnaise can be made 1 day ahead. Keep refrigerated until ready for use.)
2. Combine the soy sauce and sesame oil, and drizzle all over the tuna steak to coat. Marinate the tuna for 30 minutes at room temperature, turning occasionally.


tuna in marinade, photo Nicole

3. Meanwhile, thread 1 pickled ginger slice onto each skewer.
4. Drain the tuna and pat dry. Sprinkle both sides generously with black pepper.
5. Heat the oil in large skillet over high heat until the oil begins to shimmer. Add the tuna and sear until it is browned on both sides but still pink inside, about 2 minutes per side.


searing tuna, photo Nicole

6. Cut the tuna into 3/4-inch cubes. Thread 1 tuna cube onto each prepared skewer next to the ginger. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Serve with wasabi mayonnaise for dipping.

slices of perfectly seared tuna

Mozzarella Fondue, photo M. Rodriguez

Mozzarella Fondue Recipe

I was recently on the receiving end of a staggering bounty of Italian cheese from a client (the ever-generous Sam’s Club).  Oh baby. You don’t know how much 25 pounds of cheese is until you start trying  to get anything else into your refrigerator besides the cheese!

So, cheese-centric recipes have become a theme chez moi. I’ve been preparing fontina fritters, four cheese lasagna, asiago omelets, and recently this eye-opener—Mozzarella Fondue.

Everybody loves fondue, but I’d never tried it with mozzarella. Wow! The mellow, nutty combination of mozzarella, mushrooms, and Fontina is one of the best fondues I’ve ever tasted. Serve it the next time you entertain, with salami (the Finocchiona from Salumi, if you’re lucky), fennel wedges, Italian bread, and cauliflower or broccoli florets.

EASE OF PREPARATION: A snap

Makes 5 cups (10 to 12 hors d’oeuvres servings)

• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 2 tablespoons Marsala or dry sherry
• 1 1/2 cups dry white wine, like Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 12 ounces coarsely grated or chopped mozzarella (don’t use pre-grated)
• 6 ounces coarsely grated Fontina
• 4 ounces cream cheese
• 1/3 cup minced button mushrooms sautéed in butter (morel or porcini mushrooms would make a great substitue in the spring or fall)
• 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• 14 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Dissolve the cornstarch in the Marsala.
2. Rub the garlic around the inside of a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the wine and lemon juice to the garlic and bring to a gentle simmer.
3. Add the grated cheeses, one handful at a time, stirring constantly with a whisk to melt and blend. If the cheese and liquid do not blend, raise the heat slightly. You don’t want the mixture to boil, but it will not become smooth if it is too cool.
4. When the cheese is completely blended into the liquid, add the cornstarch mixture and the mushrooms and whisk to blend. Let simmer several minutes to thicken.  If the fondue is too thick, stir in some additional wine. Season to taste with nutmeg and black pepper.

TO SERVE:

• Transfer the mixture to a fondue pot or chaffer and serve with bread cubes, salami cubes, fennel wedges, and broccoli or cauliflower florets.