COOKING POOR, EATING RICH

Easter. Shhh It's Wabbit season.

2013-03-29T11:54:00.000-07:00

Here's the deal. I have a slightly evil sense of humor. I also really like pushing buttons. Put that together with my culinary sense of adventure and you end up with me doing the kid-hate inducing thing you should never EVER serve at Easter. Unless you're me.
Rabbit used to be common. It still is in the mid-west but just mention it to most Americans and they'll make the ookie face. It's a good lean meat, try it. My version is Italian in origin and uses shallots, dry white wine and lovely fresh herbs. Really easy to do, you'll see.

First up, buy a rabbit. I have a source with our butcher at my real job so he brought some in for me. Have him ( or her ) divide it up for you. Point is, rabbit bones are murder on knife edges. I learned that the hard way years ago. Better the butcher's knives get the notches than yours.

Mise en Place

One rabbit, divide all pieces into as many smaller pieces as possible. Bone in.

Seasoned flour, salt, black pepper, pinch of Paprika

Finely grated Parmesan

6 large Shallots, quartered

A piece or two of bacon or salt pork, no wrong answers

1 bottle dry white wine. Chardonnay, Fume Blanc...whatever ya got

Bunch of fresh Marjoram

Some Rosemary

Same with Oregano

Also Thyme

Remove leaves but save those stems, tie them together and add those to the pot later. Big fancy Chef word for today is Bouquet garni.

Splash of Olive Oil
Wide ribbon Pasta, pick one.

Start heating up your pan and add your pieces of pork belly, cook those alone for a couple minutes and add a splash of oil

Combine the cheese with the seasoned flour. Dredge all pieces 'o' Peter Rabbit and shake off excess.

Start browning off the bunny pieces. Light gold brown

For now remove to the side.

In the same pan dump in the shallots and start browning those off.

Put the rabbit pieces back add the herbs and dump in the wine to cover. We're braising aren't we? Make sure to scrape up the yummy brown stuff on the bottom of the pan. Check your seasoning ok?

Thing is rabbit has some tough leg muscle as you might imagine and to make it edible a long cooking time is the order for the day. Bring to a good simmer, cover, and braise until tender. Depending on the size of your egg and jellybean shilling hasenpfeffer this can go anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour.

That's ok, gives us time to par-cook the pasta. Boil, drain..blah blah. Gently add the pasta to the pan. Toss lightly.

Plate up and garnish with any herbs you have left over.

Let the kids know what they're eating maybe AFTER they hunt for eggs.

Have a blessed and peaceful Easter

Cooking poor, eating rich

Get your grub on

Ciao

Posted with Blogsy

Surviving Lent with prostitutes and anchovies. Puttanesca

2013-03-04T12:57:00.000-08:00

Who said dinner during Lent has to be boring?

This dish is one of my all-time favorites. It's got a great story behind it. In Italian Puttanesca means "whore" isn't that a scream? The story is that this was prepared afterwards to fortify the "customer" before his journey home to the wife. It's a simple, salty, peppery dish of easy to find items in any Italian kitchen. So easy it takes less than an hour to make. Time is money, for prostitutes and Chefs alike.

If you don't like Anchovies you're in big trouble.

Chef Nick does Pasta alla Puttanesca

Mise-en-place

1 pound of pasta, any shape you like but I prefer Linguine or another strand type

about 8 or so fresh Tomatoes

3 cloves garlic, smooshed

4 Anchovy fillets

some chopped up Kalamata Olives
1-2 TB of Capers, chopped.
big pinch of red chili flakes
any appropriate fresh herbs, I like Oregano

First step, de-seeding the Tomatoes. Most recipes don't have this step but I just don't like the look of all those seeds floating around in my sauce, if it doesn't bother you then skip ahead. All you need is to core first then cut in half. Squeeze gently over a wire-mesh strainer to remove seeds. This sounds wacky but it's a trick I learned from my old boss Paul Poblate. The flavor of Tomato is actually in the gel that surrounds the seeds, so whenever you remove seeds, strain out the liquid and add it back in at some point. Brightens the whole dish.

and just assemble the rest of your ingredients.

Now some friendly words about Anchovies.

I grew up on Anchovies. It's an Italian thing. The salty-fishy-hairy stuff was always a big treat whenever the family got together. I'll just never-ever understand why it generates so much hate. It's a small fish from the Mediterranean that is then dried in salt and packed in oil. It's terrific and such a big part of this dish you just can't make it without. I eat them right out of the can. I also refuse to order pizza from a place that doesn't have this as an option. Seriously. Please, give them a chance. Sing with me. Anchovies Anchovies, they're so delicious, I loves 'em better than all the other fishes.

Yes, please cook off the pasta before-hand. This sauce is so quick you'll need it fast.

Next to your stove you have something that looks like this...

Heat up a large pan. HOT if you can't touch it, it's ready. Add a splash of Olive Oil, then the garlic.

Toss it around and add the Chili Pepper flakes. Be careful not to burn, just take it the point you start to see some color on the garlic. Then add the Anchovy. It will start to dissolve almost instantly.

Add all the Tomatoes with a good pinch of Black Pepper and a scant pinch of Salt (you don't need much 'cus, yeah Capers and Anchovy have a ton of salt already)

We are still on high heat, the Tomatoes will start to break down (if you saved your tomato gel, add it now)

Just watch now, once the Tomato stops looking like just chopped Tomato, add the Capers and Olives and any fresh herbs, again, I used Oregano. Still on high heat. Let that all cook down to remove as much water as you can, turn down heat to low.

Here's why it's smart to pre-cook the pasta. Unlike Americans, Italians know that you add the pasta to the sauce, all that carry-over heat will force the sauce into the pasta and Italian cooking is all about getting the most out of everything. Another good tip, add a splash of the pasta water into your pan.

That's it friends. Plate that up. Italians always-always-always have bread on hand. Garnish with some chopped herbs if ya like. Admit it, you'd visit a prostitute if you knew you'd get served this after.

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

It's Lent. Meatless Fridays. Welsh Rarebit.

2013-02-22T13:51:00.000-08:00

I go old-school. I'm a good Catholic boy so on Ash Wednesday I turn my thoughts and heart to a quiet and deep contemplation of what it is to be one of God's creations. That, and I have many-many fond memories of my Dad making this cheesy, savory dish for our meatless Fridays.
A true gem among all the rubbish that is English cuisine. GOD that hurt to type. I mean really, English??? Yes really. Here's a story.
The legend is that this dish originated among the servants of the English manor-houses during the 16th and 17th centuries. Day-old bread and dry, sharp English Cheddar were combined with beer, mustard and herbs and here we are today with this lovely plate of scrumptiousness. There is no reason or rhyme to the word "rarebit" it seems to be a dig against the Welsh servants but as to it's meaning I gather nobody knows.
It's an open-faced grilled-cheese sandwich with a whisk of beer and mustard. I dare you to hate it. I double-dog dare you. I triple-dog....heck, never mind. Here we go.

Chef Nick Does Welsh Rarebit. No this isn't the promised rabbit dish, that's next month

Mise-en-place

A loaf of good and crusty day-old bread. Sliced thick on the bias.
1 English beer, 12 oz. The bulk produced American crap just won't do as they are made from gnat piss. Use a micro-brewed Ale or a good English Ale like Newcastle.
1 TB dry mustard
1 1/2 cup of good sharp Cheddar, shredded (for 2 NTYC points, tell me where Cheddar gets it's color from, no google)
3 TB butter
1 TB flour
1/2 cup warm milk
1 splash of Worcestershire (I'm going to abbreviate this as WS for the rest of the day, it's too hard to spell ok?)
1 good pinch of dried ground Paprika
1 good pinch Cayenne Pepper
fresh ground Black-Pepper
1 egg yolk, fresh and lightly whisked
some chopped Parsley about a TB or so
fresh Chives, snipped. That's our garnish

snipped? yessir

and just for us Catholics maybe some smoked Salmon.
To make this more a non-Lenten dish maybe some smoked Ham.

Equipment.
grill pan
sauce pan
brush
whisk

Alongside any cruciferous vegetable like Broccoli, Cauliflower, or just a cold salad of baby-greens or Watercress. Prepare anyway you like. I'm roasting mine in butter. Yes, butter.

This is old territory, we've seen this sauce sorta before. It's a lot like Bechamel but it's beer based. Isn't that wonderful? Also pay attention to the ratio for the Roux.

Melt the butter in a largish deep pot
once all melted whisk in the flour to make a Roux

add the spices

Whisk in the milk.

Drop down to medium heat. Add the beer.

Keep whisking and you will notice a gentle thickening. Drop your heat to lower-medium. Take up a small amount of the sauce and whisk it gently into your egg-yolk. This is called tempering. Whisk that back into the rest, this will make a nice shiny and thick base.

Add your cheese and a dash of WS. Once all the cheese is melted add the Parsley.

That's it really.

You got that bread sliced thick right?

Brush both sides with melted butter and place on a hot grill-pan. Flip over and toast the other side and set aside. For a little bit extra I added a small piece of smoked Salmon on top the bread. Eating fish on Fridays during Lent is an old tradition. If you want to hear how that came about just send me a message.

Cover the bread slices with the sauce

and garnish with a sprinkle of Chives. This is a wonderfully satisfying and savory dish wether you're celebrating Lent or not. From prep to plate the whole thing takes maybe an hour. You got that kinda time, I know you do.

cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

Lactose Intolerance be danged. Mac-n-cheese.

2013-02-08T14:47:00.000-08:00

There's a pill for that anyway.

Here's the thing. I was chattin' away with an old buddy of mine when he let slip that he still likes the instant-crappy evil blue box version of mac-n-cheese. Full of orangey (new word?) toxic death. After some mocking it occurred to me that HECK I make a pretty good mac-n-cheese. Perfect dish for this time of year. On the other hand, I am really really really lactose intolerant. That's a new thing for me, time was I could eat my weight in dairy and then I hit 40 and it all went to heck. I don't care, it hasn't stopped me. The bloating is totally worth it.

I also got some terrific looking Brussels Sprouts from the market. That's the side for the day.

Sure, this may sound like the fussy-chef version but heck if you want the best, use the best. The cool thing about Mac-n-cheese is how easy and variable it is. You can add or subtract any number of ingredients. As long as the basic formula is met, everything else is fair game.

Today I've got some Tomatoes from the garden, some Chipotle, one Shallot and a head of Roasted Garlic. I'll be using my favorite combination of cheeses, Gruyere and aged White Cheddar. If you've got a favorite combo, then by all means.

First things first though. I trimmed up the Sprouts, tossed with oil, salted and peppered added some fresh Rosemary and garlic powder. Wrapped loosely in foil and threw them on the grill.

the only way to make Brussels Sprouts

Also, sliced the tops off the head of garlic, drizzled with a little oil,

wrapped that up and it joined the Sprouts.

In a little bit (40 minutes or so at 400) pulled 'em off. Done.

Let the garlic head cool before squeezing out all the love. I didn't and now I've burnt my fingers. I used about 1 TB and reserved the rest for another day.

CHEF NICK'S MAC-N-CHEESE: geesh finally

mise-en-place
1/2 pound large pasta (I used Cellentani) Par-cooked
2 cups whole milk, heated
1/2 stick butter (yes, butter)
equal amount White Flour
1 cup of shredded cheese. Again I use Gruyere and aged White Cheddar so half-half
big pinch of Black Pepper

in addition
1 minced Shallot
1 chopped up Chipotle
some large diced fresh Tomato
1 TB roasted Garlic

For the top
1 cup bread-crumbs
some grated either Parmesan or Romano cheese
melted butter
mix those together, easy

mmmm butter

Of course we cook the noodles before-hand. I like the ones that look like piggy tails. They hold the sauce beautifully. Drain and set aside.

Here's a thing. The sauce we are about to make is classic Mornay. It's French. Remember that the next time you make fun of France. It starts as Bechamel, we add cheese. Voila.

Is there anything better than melted Butter? No, not really.

In a big deep pot, melt the butter over high heat. Drop to medium and add the minced Shallot.

Toss for a bit and add the Flour. Stir around until it stops smelling starchy.

That's called a ROUX. Add the milk a little at a time. If you heat the milk like say, in the micro-wave you get less lumps. Use a whisk and keep going.

If you can drag across the back of the spoon with your finger it's good. We call that NAPE.

Nape

Season with salt and pepper. Add the Chipotle and Garlic. Stir.

Add the cheese. Stir again.

Turn off the heat. Keep whisking until everything comes together into a cheesy smooth pot of goodness. Add the noodles.

Using a spatula toss them together, next add the Tomatoes. let them get to know each other.

Whisper sweet words into the pot. Say "I love you." and "My Momma loves you."

"You know who doesn't love you??? All the jack-hats who think that the crap in that blue box is edible" Sean?

Put the cover on the pot and put into a 400 degree oven for 30 minutes.

Take out and un-cover. Top with the bread-crumb stuff and put it back in the oven to brown on top (uncovered). This took maybe another 10-15 minutes for me. Keep an eye on it. Pull it out.

glows like the sun

YOU let the people behind the blue box tell you that their orange crap was the real deal.

I'm here to tell you that you can do better. Yes you can. Today we win.

Here's the thing. Macaroni and Cheese starts with maybe five ingredients. The blue box folks added 20 on top of that. I call bullshit.

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

HOCKEY IS BACK !!...and oh yeah, the Super Bowl.

2013-01-28T16:22:00.001-08:00

I have to admit, I'm not an NFL fan. I know, something is very wrong with me. All I see are 2 minutes of action followed by 10 minutes of talk and commercials. Hockey on the other hand, now that's a sport. Speed, power, blood and sweat. GO COYOTES !!! ahem. Yes this coming Sunday is the greatest and most American of holidays. Super-Bowl Sunday. This week's post is about my version of the greatest sports-snack ever created. The Chicken Wing. Except; and oh yes, we're going to make it just a bit more fantastic AND learn a new trick or two. Here we go.

NICK'S STUFFED RED WINGS !!! Didja see how I slipped a hockey reference in there? So clever.

These don't suck. Unlike Detroit.
(2 "Nick Thinks You're Cool Points" if you know where I got this formula from)

For the sauce
Mise-en-place (hey that rhymes)

2 TB Sesame Oil
1/4 cup Chili Oil
3/4 cup Vegetable Oil
1 cup Ketchup
1 cup Powdered Sugar
1-2 hot peppers, minced up
2 cloves crushed garlic
2 Green Onions minced

Combine all in a medium pot, bring to a simmer and reduce by half.

a shimmering pot of love

1 Green Onion sliced neatly* for garnish

For the filling
Mise-en-place

chunk of Cream Cheese, beaten until lightened. Let it come to room temp and just whack it with a spoon in a bowl a whole bunch of times
minced green onions
Just mix these two together and set aside

For the Wings
Mise-en-place

If you have a good relationship with your butcher, get him to reserve the entire wing-joint. The tip I would usually tell you to trim off and reserve for the stock-pot but with our method today we need the tip as a handy handle. Hey, if you can't, then the winglets will still work they just won't be as dramatic.

Beaten Egg Whites, just until a little past foamy
a quantity of Corn Starch in a wide container

a deep pot full of oil for frying, 400 degrees

Garlic Salt
Black Pepper

Take the bones out.....whistles a little bit...Oh what? Well sure I'll show you how that works
grab a clean, dry towel and a sharp knife. Let's go nuts. On the end, make a smooth but firm cut all the way around the joint. There are two bones with a strong tendon between them, slice that first. Stick your fingers under the skin GENTLY and slowly wriggle down. It's actually really easy just don't rush.

chicken wing finger puppet

Yep, you CAN do the same with the drummettes but I'm not gonna, it's a bitch.

Now stuff the cavity you just made and gather a portion of the end to cover and set aside. Use a piping bag if you got one, otherwise, fingers work.

Season the outside with the black pepper and garlic salt.

Refrigerate for a bit before the fry part, that will help prevent "flashing"...that's when the stuff inside leaks outside and we don't want that.

Heat up your frying oil. Dip the wing in the egg-whites and then dredge with the corn-starch

and immediately drop into the hot oil.

They won't take long, the wings will cook fast, the drummetts a little longer. Don't crowd the pot. Take them out and let them drain on a plate lined with paper towels.

Here's the cool part. Heat up the sauce. Dump into a wide bowl and toss those chicken wangs around.

Garnish with sliced Green Onions. Serve. Big bite of bird with the cream-cheese and onion. Next with a succulent mouthful of bird flesh off the bone. Doesn't get better than that.

LET'S GO COYOTES

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

The 50th article. Gratitude.

2013-01-18T22:33:00.000-08:00

Yes, that's right, it's my 50th time reaching out to you. As it so happens I have a story to tell.
Something happened to me this week, something wonderful. I'm struggling with words to tell you because nothing I can say will convey how overwhelmed I'm feeling today.

As I was leaving for work this morning I spied a package sitting by the side-gate. I took it inside and opened it. The contents are the subject of the picture above, a purple Chef Coat. There's a letter, here it is in it's entirety.

Dear Nick
We're sorry this didn't make it for Christmas but the embroidery took longer than we thought. We just wanted to send you something that would let you know how much we love you. You never forget our birthdays, you check up on us when we're down, you call us out of the blue to make us smile. You are always so positive and encouraging even in the worst times and we just wanted to say thank you. We know this last year was tough on you but please, keep smiling.
A bunch of us

No names, but if I know anything I know it was the WHS RAMS. Purple Pride!!

Now a few words of my own. You came to me during one of the worst times of my life. Each one of you is a treasure beyond price. You raise me up and give me joy everyday. I wouldn't have made it through without your friendship. Truly. I owe you all so much. Yes, the last few years have been hard for so many of us but I truly believe that if we stick together we will yet see our best days.

I'm going to wear this jacket with great pride. I'm a WHS RAM class of '84 and I'm feeling darn well blessed and magnificent today. A thousand times THANK YOU!! GO RAMS GO !!

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

A little Thai, a little 1950's era American diner...sure

2013-01-12T15:22:00.001-08:00

Holiday leftovers. No no no, don't close the page, stick around, it's ok really.

Just like you I have a freezer full of turkey carcass and stuffing. Yes, I could make turkey soup, I love turkey soup. I could make turkey tetrazzini (also called turkey spaghetti) except I'm not going to.
What I'm going to do is grab some coconut milk, lemon grass and ginger and make something new; and I hope, wonderful.

I like Thai, I like everything about it. Complex and contrasting flavors with exotic spices. I also truly love classic American grub. Born out of necessity with roots in all the diverse cultures and places our immigrant ancestors came from.
I was contemplating a traditional Thai coconut curry soup with turkey instead of the usual shrimp and blah-blah. I was also thinking of using some of the recipes from my collection of old cookbooks dating back to early and middle 20th century. Then it hit me. Use both, why not? WELL??? Right.

Turkey Croquette islands in a Thai Curry ocean.

Yes, you'll need to make turkey-broth. Just get as much of the flesh off before-hand and reserve (2 cups), we'll need that later. All those cooked bones, throw in a pot with mirepoix and water. Won't take long. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer. Got some herb stems lying around? Super, use those to.
OH BUT NICK WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THIS AND STOCK? Simply, stock is made from raw bones, broth is made from cooked.

Once all the mirepoix is translucent, strain out with the bones and reserve the liquid part of the program.
Hey look, if you don't have any bones but just left-over turkey flesh, just use some chicken or vegetable stock, it's fine really. I hope you have as much as I have, it came to about 6 cups. Anything you don't use, freeze.

Now some words about the Thai stuff.

Curry. Yes you think India invented curry. Here's the truth. The word Curry comes from an ancient, south-eastern Asian language, it literally means "A blend of some shit we made because all the blue-eyed barbarians said they wanted something spicy but they didn't really mean it so now we're stuck with this crap." Or something close to it. I might have translated wrong.
It contains Turmeric, Cardamom, Cumin, Coriander, Chili-powder. Use whatever ratio works best for you. Because I'm doing Thai I'd use more of the Coriander and Cardamom than I usually do. If you have access to Thai red-curry where you are then sure, use it. I did.

Lemon-Grass. WTF is this? It's an Asian herb that contains a terrific amount of citronella. Looks like a small stalk of bamboo and is getting pretty easy to find in most grocery stores. Smells and tastes more lemony than lemons. Also it repels mosquitoes. That's important somehow. Anyway....
Look for firm and fresh green stalks. If the outer sheathes are brown and wrinkled then it just sucks. We're only using the big white ends but save the greener parts, still lots of flavor there and while inedible you can throw those in the soup and retrieve later.

Thai soup mise-en-place

Coconut milk. Not really milk, no cows involved but it's easy to find in the canned form. You'll need two. Cans, not cows.

1 large onion, julienne
2 peeled carrots, cut on the bias
2 stalks celery, same
1 red Bell pepper cut into thin strips
1 green-onion, sliced thin
The diced peel and juice of 1 Lime
1-2 small hot peppers, if you can find Thai peppers great, if you can't just use Serrano or Jalapeno ok? Just chop those up, seeds and all. I WANT NOSES TO RUN!! If you don't, please omit.
I also used some Snow-Peas but a handful of baby spinach is good too
some chopped up fresh Cilantro
about 1 TB grated fresh ginger
same for minced Lemon-Grass
1 TB Red Curry paste (or more if you're completely nuts) I'm completely and totally nuts.
some Kosher salt

First up, heat up a big pot. Add some oil and all at once dump in the vegetables, except for the snow-peas. A pinch of salt would be a good thing to add here.

We want to leave some texture and crunch for later. Sweat those around for just a bit, add the red curry paste, lemon-grass and ginger. Add in the lime peel and juice. Next add the stock, let that come up to a near boil.

Add the coconut milk and maybe a whole stalk of lemon-grass.
Let simmer for maybe 20 minutes. Again, Thai is a cuisine of contrasts so we don't want mushy vegetables.

Add the chopped hot pepper.

Let it go for another five and add the snow-peas. You got any fresh cilantro? Add it now.

Take off heat, our carry-over heat is going to do the work for us. We move on.

CROQUETTES didn't see that coming did you?
Time was mid-20th century there wasn't an American diner that didn't have croquettes. What are they? Well they are a great way to use up left-overs. They utilize chopped up meats and starches and can include almost anything. Usually meat and old mashed potato. Today of course I've got Turkey and Stuffing. I KNOW, RIGHT??? Who doesn't love stuffing. It's then egged, breaded and fried. For some wacky reason my Chef brain kept putting the flavors of the traditional Holiday Turkey dinner together with Thai. No, I don't know why.

2 cups finely-chopped up left over Turkey
2 cups left over stuffing

salt and pepper
1 egg for the mix, 2 eggs beaten for coating
a wide shallow bowl of bread-crumbs
a pot for frying and some oil

Easy stuff, think of these as meatballs 'cus they kinda are. Or maybe they're meat donut-holes. Finely chop up the meat part, the finer the better. Stir together with the Stuffing, if you got any fresh Parsley around chop it up and add it, check seasoning. Mix around with one egg. That's our binding agent.

Heat up a pot of frying fat, either oil, shortening....whatever

Roll up into balls, doesn't have to be perfect. Roll in bread-crumbs, dip in egg and roll in bread-crumbs again. Fry up until dark brown. Set aside. did you get that? We roll in crumbs, then egg, then crumbs again. THEN fry.

look how pretty

Grab a bowl. Add a ladle of Thai, introduce some of our American croquettes. Let them say "howdy."
I just can't get over how well the curry-coconut thing works with the American turkey-and-stuffing thing.

Eat up.

here we are with just some left-overs and our imagination.

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

Beans for luck in 2013.

2013-01-03T16:14:00.000-08:00

We made it through 2012 my friends. Another year done and in the books. There is an old tradition to serve beans early in the new year. Beans symbolize potential growth and luck for the new year. Great way to use up that Christmas ham-bone, grab a tug of herbs from your winter garden, some aromatics and go nuts. You DID save that ham-bone didn't you?

HAPPY NEW YEAR WHITE BEAN AND HAM SOUP.

Mise-en-place

1 ham-bone. Trim as much flesh off as you can. Reserve until later. If it's not perfectly bare, that's just fine.
Mirepoix. Carrots, celery, onion.
fresh clove garlic
handfuls of whatever fresh herbs you have lying around, today I have some Cilantro, Rosemary and Basil but Sage, Thyme, Parsley, all work. No wrong answers.
2-3 dry Bay-leaf
2 pounds of rinsed, dried great northern beans.
maybe some spicy sausage, I did today but you don't have to. I had some Cajon Andouille.
Dry Sherry (hey, if you don't have Sherry, use a touch of dry Vermouth or nothing at all, it's ok)
One big pot

If you have time, soak the beans overnight in water. If you don't (and I don't) you can cheat.

Rinse off the beans in a colander, pick out anything that looks weird.

Can I just say how much I love my French enameled colander?

check out the long-handled wooden spoon I got for Christmas

Dump all beans into your pot and fill with 3 times the volume with water (1 pound is 16 oz, three times the volume is..?) . Put in 1/2 Onion, skin on. Some Carrot ends, Celery ends. Some of the Herb stems. Bring it up to boiling. Add that ham-bone and immediately take off heat and let it sit for 3 hours. Yes, three hours, it's a lot shorter than over-night isn't it?

FUN FACTS about beans. All Legumes contain complex carbohydrates and simple proteins. If you combine them with another complex carb' they make a complete protein. That's why Mom gave us whole wheat bread with our peanut-butter. That's why, down-south they do beans and rice. That's why in Asia, it's soybeans and rice. Neat huh?

While your beans are soaking, medium dice up the mirepoix. Also smoosh up that garlic clove. Mince up those herbs. Get some Black Pepper ready. This is really just a chop and dump.

herbs and mirepoix

Dig out the vegetable scraps and herb stems from the pot, discard. Reserve the ham-bone. Turn the heat on high. What that soaking did was create a big pot of ham-and-bean stock. It also allowed those beans to soften and that reduces our cooking time by like a million years. Seriously, a million. Dinosaurs would evolve into pigeons in the amount of time it would take otherwise.

If you're adding some spicy sausage to stretch this out, just chop it up and brown off in a large, wide pan. Remove to paper towels and let drain. Reserve until later.

Browned Andouille

did I mention the long-handled wooden spoon I got for Christmas?

Your pot is getting hot now isn't it? Add those dried Bay-leaves now. Once you reach boiling, check the surface, if you see any brown scum gathering on the surface, remove with a sharp-sided spoon and make it go away. Add all the vegetables. Take back down to a long, slow simmer. Add the herbs and a big pinch of cracked black pepper.

Notice I haven't said anything about salt yet? Ham is our salt today. Didn't see that coming did you?

Simmer until beans are done, maybe 2 hours. Grab one or two and smear between your fingers (hands are the best tools)
If they smear with no resistance they're done. If you have any scraps of Ham from the bone, add now. Add the sausage and turn off heat. Stir. Shhh add a scant handful of rice while still simmering to maximize the protein. It'll be our secret. Let it cook for another 20 minutes or so.

HEY Nick !! What about the Sherry? I didn't forget. Add a glug to the pot just before serving. Stir some more.

add the Sherry

Maybe a bit right on top the bowl. Garnish with a sprig of fresh herb. Serve with some good crusty bread. It's my hug to you across the miles.

it's good now, even better the next day

My friends, I bid you much joy and prosperity for 2013. Whatever comes next, at the very least we are...

..Cooking poor, eating rich

Get your grub on

Ciao

How the WHS RAMS saved Christmas. It's a wonderful life.

2012-12-22T22:55:00.000-08:00

Before I begin, let me say that this post contains no recipes, cooking advice or food science. What it does contain are my feeble efforts to communicate a wonderful thing that I experienced. Also, I'm not a photographer so some of the pictures are blurry. I hope they convey some of the wonder of a very special night.

Like a lot of people on Facebook I have become re-acquainted with many of the people I went to High School with and luckily I still live in the same city so I get to see them frequently. They have been a great blessing to me in the tough times we have all experienced in this last handful of years.
About a month ago one of our alumni; Mary, posted a plea for help. She works with foster kids that are approaching the age when they will be let out of the system, she helps them get food, clothing and above all, she gives them love. I wish I was half the human she is.

The Following are her words.
My dear WHS peeps. Thank you for taking a moment to read this, it will give you an idea what I am up against. I run a program for teenagers who are in or aging out of the foster care system. Our Holiday party is December 20 at 5:30. We have 300 kids in our program, we will hopefully get at least 1/2 of them there for a home cooked meal. It is the one time of year that I try to go all out, to have fresh baked goods, because they always get day old out of a box in their groups homes etc. We have several kiddos that are homeless or couch surfing, so we pack as many to go containers as there is food left to be sure that they get through the weekend. We qualify for the working poor tax credit, so a married couple can donate 400.00 to us that goes directly to gift cards for the kiddos and you get it ALL back in your AZ tax refund, as this is a dollar for dollar tax credit. You also get the deduction on the federal return, so you actually make money by donating. A single person can donate 200 and get it ALL back. We need gift cards to fast food places, target, wal mart and ross, places that we can stretch the dollars, what we come up with is the only gifts that these kiddos get. The clothing allowance for a young person in foster care is 150. a YEAR!! This includes shoes, socks, bras etc...When you think about that for a moment you cant help but know that there is something you can do to make a difference in the life of a child.... we have to try to get them gifts that help fill in the gaps. We would be so grateful for anything and everything that you would like to do! The meal and gift giving is December 20 at 5:30 on Tatum and Paradise and it will be a very fun and crazy night!!

All I did, really, was to say I would be there. I have loads of catering experience so I hoped I could at least be useful. That, and I "shared" her message on some of out local alumni pages. I then sent an E-mail to my old boss, Steve Short at Atlasta Catering where I used to work to ask his advice on what to do.

He sent back a reply that I truly was not expecting. "You can count on us for anything you need. Turkey, stuffing, vegetables, just let me know." More about that later.

As the date approached I called again, it's his busiest time of year so I knew it was a lot to ask to just give away a bunch of food. I was really only asking for maybe a Cambro (for those who don't know that's an insulated container that caterers use to keep food hot.) of product. At least it would be something. As a side note, Steve once said to me "Accept the challenge first, then figure out how to make it happen." Good words.

In the meantime, Mary kept posting to remind people how much any help would be appreciated. Times are tough. Imagine how tough they are for these kids. We got some encouraging responses. Mostly though, all we got was silence. Or so I thought.

WHS Alum, Susie

On the day of the event I packed a duffel bag full of anything I thought I could use, a chef coat, some dish-outs, extra hand towels. I had to work at my real job that morning but one of my dear WHS friends was picking me up at 3pm to go help me pick up the food from Atlasta. That's when things started to get amazing.

Steve had ready for us, FOUR Cambros. I was stunned. It gets better, trust me. Even with that amount we were expecting maybe up to 300 teenagers. Barely a dent. I should have more faith. I really really should but I didn't know or had forgotten how magnificent humans can be.

Forgive me again. I'm an idiot. I have spent so much time wondering why people couldn't just stop being a sack of dicks to each other and realize that everyone is just as scared and fragile as themselves. Didn't someone come by once to tell us that? Isn't this season about that? I keep hoping.

Now I have proof. Wait for it.

We pulled up to the church hall where we would be serving. There were already a fair amount of volunteers wandering around. We introduced ourselves and drug what we had into the kitchen area. Small oven, some tables and chairs in the hall. A Christmas tree in the corner, looked pretty challenging. Someone had some Au Gratin Potatoes and Green-Bean casserole warming in the tiny oven. OK, well.....OK

Loaves and Fishes, I kept saying to myself. It'll be ok. We'll make it work. I didn't know how, truly. God, I've become so cynical. I didn't used to be.

Mary is amazing, she knew the whole time. She does the Lord's work.

Another Alum showed up, I knew she would. Ricki had Ham and Pasta Salad and Cookies.

me and Ricki

Then more WHS RAMS arrived bringing more. I got them organized and we got a two-sided buffet set up.

An army of volunteers plus RAMS. I began to see it.

loaves and fishes

The kids started to arrive. St Nicholas pray for us. More and more people arrived to help. Heaps of stuffing, ham and turkey, macaroni and cheese, more and more. As soon as we worried we wouldn't have enough the door would open and more would come. Rolls, salads, piles of turkeys, mounds of cupcakes, brownies, cookies. It was crazy trying to rotate one dish into the oven and back out again. I lost my voice just trying to keep it organized. Our good Lord was in attendance. I have no other explanation.

I kept seeing WHS alum arrive. Asking what they could do. Tom and his family. Patti brought cupcakes, best ever. Jamie and her lovely little girl Tatum who just helped in anyway they could. I still didn't know how much the RAMS had made it possible.

My friends, all I can do is to serve. I'm not smart, I'm not strong. In the face of something like this I can only keep up.

Then Santa Claus showed up, of course.

I danced.

The dessert table GROANED under the weight. We had stacks more under the table.

It kept coming. Music, laughter, food. Tonight, we all knew wealth and riches of how amazing people can be. I became friends with a leather and jean clad biker dude who volunteered as dish-washer. His name is Mongo, he and his wife, Cat are now some of my best friends.

MONGO !!

giving out to-go boxes

packing up boxes

We had more help then I knew what to do with. There was one dude, he was a great Sous-Chef. His wife's name was Mary. I hope to see you next time.

Someone brought us 1000 (YES) take-out containers. We set up an assembly line and sent ALL the kids home with loads of food. They will eat well for this week-end. Loaves and fishes.

We cleaned up.

Our Alum Mary. She carries the heart of what it means to be a WHS RAM

It wasn't until the following morning that I learned how much the WHS RAMS had made that night possible. Jeff, Kevin, Julie, Lisa, Cindy, Tom, Debbie, Heidi and many others sent funds and gift cards.

Again, I only serve. I am not smart or strong. What I can do, I do. I bid you all a Merry Christmas.

Here's some images from that night.

I believe in Santa

proud to be a WHS RAM

I love my Ricki

our lovely Jamie and Tatum.

DRAMA GEEKS !!

Ricki, Tatum and me

Merry Christmas. Remember what that means.

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

Christmas means Ketchup..Catsup?

2012-12-18T12:54:00.002-08:00

My friends. You all know how I like to give something jarred for Christmas. This has been a lost art among most Americans but recently has seen a revival. As terrible as the economical situation has been for most of us the last handful of years it has triggered a resurgence is canning and jarring. I myself learned this skill to make the most of what the garden produced.
There was a time; it wasn't that long ago, when Moms, Grandmas and Aunties among others would give with pride something they jarred themselves to friends and family at this time of year. Since I'm a poor Chef I have replaced stressing about how to afford presents and now look forward to giving of myself from the kitchen where my heart and soul live. This year I have a mind to make Ketchup...'cus who doesn't like Ketchup? Or is it Catsup? Isn't it just like me to do months of research to find out?
Yeah it is...

The first commercially produced Ketchup

Many, many years ago (mid 1600's) the Chinese had a pickled fish and soybean sauce (koe-chiap) that bares no resemblance to the tomato condiment we use today but it was salty and vinegary, Yankee sailors encountered it and loved it so... Skip ahead, some lady in the 1700's named Sandy Addison penned a recipe in The Sugar House Book for Catsup using Tomatoes and Salt. The spelling depends on where in the States you live, that's all. Formerly it was made with vinegar, salt and a weird selection of anything including Mushrooms, Anchovies and unripe Chestnuts. Skip ahead again and we find someone adding sugar and spices. Ahead again, Onions and more Tomato. Simply, Salt is a preservative, so is Vinegar, so is Sugar. Get it now? I've made Ketchup before on this blog as a way to save a whole grip of unripe Tomatoes. (6-1-11) See? Save what can be saved. I dived into my pile of antique cook-books and emerged with....

Chef Nick's Christmas Spicy Ketchup: I used an old original recipe from the 1800's but I wanted something with more guts so I adjusted and added some assorted spices and Chipotle, 'cus I live in the southwest and that's just how we roll.

Mise-en-Place

A big bunch of Roma Tomatoes (pictured above)
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 clove Garlic (no, the original recipe didn't call for it but how could I not add it?)
1 TB of Cumin
scant pinch of ground Allspice
good pinch fresh ground Black Pepper
4 Chipotle peppers in Adobo (the canned kind)
2 cups of white vinegar
1 cup sugar
1 cup Kosher Salt
1 TB of pickling spice tied up in cheesecloth

A big-ass pot with lid
and a fine wire-mesh strainer
either a food-processor or hand blender
Kerr mason jars. Later ok?

and a big pot of this

First up, rinse Tomatoes under cold water and then chop off the core end. Slice Tomatoes length-wise.

small bowl of potential compost

You can just dump the tomatoes right into the pot you're using

one of my favorite smells

Pickling spice is actually a blend of different things including Dill Seed, Bay Leaf, Pepper-Corns, Allspice Berries..etc. It's easy to find. What we need to do here is to take a Tablespoon and tie it into a small sack of cheese-cloth. This will make it easy to fish out later.

four whole Chipotle, the smear is the Adobo

I could have followed the original recipe, but I'm a Chef so I didn't. I wanted to make something more my style so after some consideration I thought a spicy Arizona version was more my speed. I adjusted the spice ratios a bit and added cumin and Chipotle in Adobo. Most of my readers are from this area but a good amount of you aren't so here's some words about what this is. Chipotle is made by dry-smoking Jalepeno chili peppers with Mesquite wood. Smoky-sweet and very very hot. It is then either sold in a dry form OR canned in a chili puree known as Adobo. It's one of the best ingredients to have on hand. After some testing I added four from the can. If you don't want spicy then by all means just leave it out and continue.

In the pot of Tomatoes just dump all the other ingredients in.

Set over high heat and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Lower heat and simmer until the Tomatoes are dissolved and the Onion is completely translucent. Fish out the sack of Pickling Spice and toss it out.

All we have to do now is puree. Remove the pot from heat and let cool for a bit. If you're using a hand-blender just stick it in this mess and go nuts. If you're using a food-processor then by ladle-full process until liquid.

thunder stick

Either way we move on to the next step which is a real bitch. We need to remove all traces of seeds and skins. the only way to do that is to send it through a wire mesh strainer. I know, fun right?
By ladle-full, strain this and with a flexible spatula PRESS through to remove all that stuff. Use a large bowl to catch what we need to catch. It takes a while. Take your time. Aaaannnnddd done now? Right on!!

Dump all that back into another clean pot and bring back to a boil and then keep on simmer until reduced by half (approximately) This is a slow process, tomatoes contain a grip of water. The only way to thicken this stuff is by evaporation. Taste some and add maybe salt, more vinegar or sugar. Or not.

what you start with

reduced by half

Now we jar. Don't be scared. We've done this before. If our Grandmothers can do it then so can we.

Put the jars and lids in a big pot, fill with water and over high heat bring to a boil. Sterilize. Also any tools you might need like tongs should go in the water as well. Keep on hand some clean towels and some paper towels. The process is actually really easy. Keep everything sterile. Lift one jar at a time from the boiling water. Hold it with a towel and fill. Use a paper towel to wipe the top of the jar if you spill, it needs to stay clean or you won't get a good seal. Place the seal part of the lid on the top and then twist the ring part firmly but gently. Move on to the next jar. See? Easy right? Before you go to the last step, turn the heat off under your big pot of water.

Now, last step. Once you have filled all your jars put them back in the hot water making sure the entire jar is covered.

Let them sit in the water for a few minutes and remove to a clean flat surface. Keep them out of drafts and before too long you'll hear a soft "plink" as the jars seal. Let them cool completely and attach bitchin' labels. Mine are purple.
I'm really excited to give these away this year. It took some work but it's all me and it was completely worth it. Merry Christmas all!!

Happy Holidays

cooking poor, eating rich

Get your grub on

Ciao

Fruitcake. It's beginning to smell a lot like Christmas.

2012-12-02T18:15:00.002-08:00

two of the best Christmas presents I ever got, my Nutcracker and my Mom's recipes

I love my Mom's fruitcake. Rich and dark and loaded with exotic spices. The smell of it takes me right back to being a kid. Two years ago; after many years of prodding, my Mom gave me a little tin box with all her Christmas recipes. It is one of my prized possessions. In that box is everything I loved as a kid about the season. Sugar cookies in tree and star shapes, her date pinwheels, her rich and decadent chocolate lebkuechen. If you would ask me today what I would want Santa to bring me, it would always be a loaf of my Mom's fruitcake and a Lionel train around my tree and all would be right with the world. That and Tchaikovsky's Nutcracker Suite as the back-round music. My Mom; bless her, doesn't make fruitcake anymore so it falls to me.
Did I mention it's LOADED with booze?

My Mom's Spicy Dark Fruitcake. I think this originally came out of one of her old Betty Crocker or Better Homes and Gardens books but I don't really know

Mise-en-place

3 1/2 cups mixed, diced fruits and peels, usually labeled as "fruitcake mix"
1 1/4 cup dark raisins
1 1/4 cup golden raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
3 cups sifted flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
(all spices ground)
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp allspice
1/2 tsp nutmeg
1/2 tsp cloves
1 cup shortening
2 cups dark brown sugar
4 large eggs, let these come to room temperature, it's easier that way, trust me
3/4 cup grape juice
Dark Rum. Myers's is a good brand.
cheesecloth
wax-paper
aluminum foil
loaf pans, lined with wax paper
three bowls...seriously
one large pan full of hot water but not until you put them in the oven
Since we're baking we measure out everything first and then follow the steps, right?

The night before, mix your fruit stuff, raisins and nuts, add about 1/4 cup of the Rum, cover and set aside. The longer you let it sit, the better.

Sift together the flour, spices, baking powder and salt, SIFT DARN YOU we need to incorporate air into the dry ingredients. The easiest way to do this is to measure and mix first then sift it over wax paper, you can then pick up the paper and dump it back into the bowl.

measure out first, then sift

and just dump back

In a separate bowl cream together the shortening and brown sugar, just use your man-muscles and beat the crap out of it

Now when we say cream what we're actually doing is distributing the fat all around each grain of sugar, this will ensure a consistent product. Add one egg at a time and beat until smooth.

one.at.a.time. I mean it

Here's the science. The eggs are one of our leveners and so we need to break it down as much as possible to combine it with the fat and sugar.

Add about 1/4 cup of the sifted dry ingredients to the fruits. Toss to combine.

What that does is surround the fruit with the flour which grips the residual water in the eggs and sugar and keeps it from sinking to the bottom of our batter, isn't food science neat?

Didn't I say that you'd need three bowls for this? You should have three right in front of you.

one two three

Pre-heat your oven to 275F. By spoonful, add your dry stuff to your wet stuff. Hey remember that grape juice? Alternate with the dry, beating to combine each time.

You'll end up with a big bowl of goop

Dump it onto your fruit stuff and fold until completely combined.

So you have your loaf pans covered with wax paper, right? Fill each pan with the batter. Slam them onto the counter to remove any air bubbles. Your oven should be pre-heated by now. Put a wide pan of very hot water on the bottom rack and place your loaf pans above. "Your fruitcake will have greater volume, moist texture and a shiny glaze." My Mom's own words.

This has a really long baking time. 3 and 1/2 hours. Seriously, three and a half hours. Now I get why Mom doesn't make these anymore. Test by poking with a knife, when it comes out clean, they're done. place on a rack for 'bout an hour, remove from wax-paper carefully.

Let them cool completely. DO NOT HANDLE THEM FOR ANY REASON UNTIL THEN.

Wrap in cheesecloth and then sprinkle a generous amount of rum onto the loaves. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and again in foil. Let sit somewhere dark and cool for at least 2 weeks or so.

It only seems right that after making these for 40 plus years my Mom and Dad should get one from their son, namely me. Merry Christmas Mom and Dad. Thank you for the Nutcracker. Dad reading us "A Christmas Carol." The Castle-Blocks. Lights in the snow. Christmas trees with trains underneath. Midnight Mass. Roast Turkey with stuffing inside. Sunday Lasagna. Mom's Mince-Meat Pie. I really-really lucked out. God Bless us all, EVERYONE!!

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

From our family to yours, Merry Christmas!!

p.s. I'm the guy in the back in the purple tie-die shirt

Saint Nicholas, wonder-worker. Pray for us.

Thanksgiving is YAMtastic.

2012-11-19T18:47:00.004-08:00

Here's how this all started. My cousin Marc and his wife Shayna decided that it is long overdue that our generation take over the family's Thanksgiving Feast. They sent out evites ('cus, hello, 21st Century) everyone is supposed to check off something they will make and bring. Like most American families we are an eclectic mix of ethnicities. Mostly Italian but with notable members of Latino, Portuguese, and Korean. On our Thanksgiving table it's not unusual to find Tamales, Civeche, Antipasto, Sardines, Rolled Anchovies, Olives and of course all the usual American stuff. God help me but I love stuffing wrapped in turkey skin with cranberry jelly.

Also my Dad's Old-Fashioned's. It's a Cocktail friends, look it up.

And sweet-potatoes. Yams are a tuber, Sweet Potatoes are a rhizome. If you say "rhizome" a whole bunch of times it sounds really funny. One is New World, one is Old World. The confusion comes from where you live. You might call a Yam a Sweet Potato, you might call it a Yam. In the stores they are both labeled as Sweet Potato. To add to the confusion canned sweet potato is usually labeled as "yam"
One is red and one is white.

See?

Someone always makes the Southern-American mess with marshmallows and brown-sugar. Fine. No problem really. More of a dessert than a side-dish at that point. It's not my favorite thing, more of a chore to eat. One dimensional and doesn't really show off the flavor of the main ingredient. Sorry Mom.

Yes, I'm show-boating. Deal. I wanted to make something special that reflected more of an Italian style.

My family deserves my best efforts, I don't cook for them enough but I really wish I did.
Here goes nothing.

Chef Nick does Sweet-Potato Lasagna. Shhh they think I'm doing a side-dish.

Mise-en-place

3 large but regularly shaped red ones
1 large white ones...ya know, or not
2 eggs
pinch of cinnamon
4 shallots
Lasagna Noodles, 1 pound, cooked just under al dente
Ricotta Cheese
some frozen Spinach
2 whole eggs
fresh Parsley
fresh Sage
and Rosemary
and Thyme chopped roughly (it's just like that song isn't it?)

Béchamel Sauce (For all you professionals, we're doing a Mornay)

Goat Cheese (about 3 TB)
flour
butter
Whole Milk (1 qt)
1 egg
pinch of ground Nutmeg
pinch of Chili Powder
1 large clove of Garlic, smooshed

For the top
Some Bread-Crumbs
Butter
Asiago Cheese, shredded

and of course, Kosher Salt and Fresh Ground Black Pepper

I'm going to break this down into steps.

Peel the Shallots and slice across to make sticks. Melt some butter in a pan and cook the Shallots until nice deep brown.

deeper brown than this

Peel your YAMS and cut into large pieces, try for uniformity. Cover with water, add a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar and any herb stems you might have left.

Bring to a boil until soft. Drain and TIP put them back in the pot over low heat until dry. Remove to bowl.

Add half your chopped Herbs, good pinch of Salt and Pepper and a scant pinch of Cinnamon. Add the eggs. Mix well and add the Shallots. Set aside.

Cook your noodles. Because we're going to finish by baking we don't need them perfectly done, just a little under. Once done remove from cooking water and deposit them into ice water, remove and put on a plate for later.

ice ice baby

Thaw out the spinach. Place between two dry and clean towels TWIST and SQUEEZE. We need to remove as much water as possible. Combine with Ricotta, some of the Herbs, pinch of Nutmeg and a healthy pinch of Salt and Pepper. Set aside.

And now we make our Béchamel.
I've made it before on this Blog but there seems to be a curse. Every single time, none of my pictures come out so keep your fingers crossed.

Basic stuff
whisk one whole egg in a bowl, set aside
Warm up the Whole Milk. This is why we have microwave ovens. Not boiling for God's sake, just hot. This prevents lumps from forming.
Melt about 2 TB butter over high heat
before it burns, lower heat and
add an equal amount of white flour
Add the pinch of Nutmeg and Chili Powder

stir around until it stops smelling starchy, use your nose, trust me that you'll know

Continue over low heat and add the milk, keep whisking You think it won't matter, yes it does. Raise heat to medium. You'll notice a gradual thickening.

Take off heat and with a ladle, add a bit to your beaten egg and stir around until combined. This is called tempering. It allows you to raise the temperature of the egg without cooking it. You'll need the egg's protein to add body and sheen but we do not want scrambled eggs in our sauce.

tempering

Add your egg mixture back to the pot, off heat and whisk. Put back on medium heat and keep whisking. It will thicken beautifully. Remove from heat. The "carry-over" heat will work for us. Add remaining Herbs.

Add the Goat Cheese and Garlic. Whisk until smooth, set aside. The remaining warmth will release all the love from your herbs.

Layering.
Simple.
Coat the bottom of an open baking pan with cold Butter. Yes Mom I used your old baking pan, what else?
Lay down a thin layer of the sauce

Put down one layer of the noodles and carefully cover with half the YAM mixture

Cover with another layer of noodles and half of your Ricotta and Spinach mixture. Dump half of your Béchamel on top, press down deep.

Cover with another layer of noodles. Got it? SAUCE-NOODLE-YAM-NOODLE-RICOTTA-NOODLE-SAUCE-NOODLE-YAM-NOODLE-SAUCE-TOPPING

Here's the top.
One layer of the cheese.
Mix together by hand 2 TB of cold butter with 1/2 cup of Bread-Crumbs (or so) sprinkle across top.
Cover with shreds of the cheese.

In a 375F oven, bake covered with aluminum foil for 45 Minutes.
Remove foil and bake uncovered for another 20 minutes until it browns lightly.

Remove from oven and let it rest for 20 minutes or so.

I'm thankful that I still have my Mom and Dad. I'm thankful for my brother Pat and his family. I'm thankful for my Aunts and Uncles and cousins. I'm also very thankful that so many of you are still reading this blog, I couldn't do it without you. Happy Thanksgiving one and all.

I'm thankful that I am, as always

cooking poor, eating rich

Get your grub on

Ciao

Celebrating Autumn. Split Pea Soup.

2012-11-10T13:54:00.001-08:00

Even here in my Sonoran Desert the temperatures have dropped. OK sure we aren't expecting snow or anything. It's 65F today with puffy white clouds, crystal blue sky and a nice breeze. Mom would make soup on days like this. One of my all-time favorites is Split-Pea. Creamy without cream. Hearty without a bunch of meat. Slightly sweet and earthy with flavors of vegetables and fresh herbs. Easy Peasy...HAH see what I did there? Grab a bottle of dry sherry, let's do this.

Mise-en-Place

I used about 2 pounds dried split-peas. I'm making a grip of soup but if you don't need to, divide in half.
1 large Onion
2-3 Carrots, peeled
2-3 stalks Celery
1 clove of Garlic, smooshed
Salt Pork. As much or as little you want. Chop it up fine. Hey look, if you're a vegetarian then just use some Olive Oil for the first step.
8 cups either Chicken or Vegetable Stock
1 bottle dry sherry
Pinch of ground Nutmeg
Pinch or so or Chili Powder
2 dried Bay Leaves
Fresh Herbs. Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Mint. Yes, I said Mint, a much under-used herb, brilliant with peas.
and of course. Kosher Salt and fresh ground Black Pepper
In case ya'll didn't know, Peas are in fact Legumes but you won't need to soak them overnight or anything. The British do but I have no idea why.

Dump all the Peas in a Colander and rinse under cold water. Remove any little pebbles or anything that looks wacky.

Grab your vegetables and small dice.

mince up all the Herbs

and small dice up your Salt Pork.

I bet you can see where this is going. Peas as legumes contain a bunch of Starch that will render out and give us that wonderful creamy mouth feel.

Heat up your deep pot and throw in the salt pork.

Toss that around for a bit and add the vegetables with a big pinch of Kosher Salt and Pepper also the pinch of Nutmeg and Chili Powder. Stir that around a bit, we're just sweating. Add all the herbs.

Add all Peas, toss it

dump in half the bottle of Sherry and all Stock. Bring to a simmer, cover and relax.

Let it go until everything is soft. Stir once in a while, you'll notice that the Peas will just dissolve. You can stop there if you want but if you have a Thunder-Stick (hand blender) use that to puree a little, not a lot. Leave some whole, adds to the texture and character.

I have always believed in that old adage that soups are always better the next day. I'm hungry NOW so I'm not waiting. Once you have it in your bowl, sprinkle a little bit of Sherry on top.

That wasn't so hard was it? Allowing for prep-time the whole thing takes about an hour and thirty. I remember my Mom would give us bowls of this with piles of Saltines and we would just go nuts.
I made some of my Sausage and Cheese bread because soup without bread is sad. I'll happily share the recipe if you ask.

To all of you I wish a cozy and snuggly Autumn.

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

I love Louisiana. Shoulders to New Orleans.

2012-11-02T11:29:00.000-07:00

Nobody loves food more than me. Except maybe the city of New Orleans. Laissez les bons temps rouler. Friends, let the good times roll on.

I do love me some Cajun. Petite bit of French, little bit of Spanish and a fair helping from Africa and Native American. Today I'm doing Meat-loaf. Yeah ok I said it, Meat-loaf.

The Cajun. Once of Acadia, now of the swamps of Louisiana. French speaking people of the backwaters. This is what a cooking poor but eating rich people can do. Je t'aime.

Chef Nick's Cajun style Meat-loaf. Roasted Fall vegetables besides with Red Gravy.

Mise-en-place

Meat-Loaf
Some ground beef, 'bout 3 pounds
The holy trinity. One part green bell pepper, one part celery, two parts onion, picture below
one clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup blackening powder*
1 egg
1/2 cup bread crumbs
Kosher salt
Fresh cracked black pepper

Red Gravy
3-4 slices bacon
1-2 TB flour
chopped Basil
1 dried Bay-Leaf
1 cup brewed coffee
1 can 16z tomato puree
1 TB blackening powder*

Roasted Fall Vegetables
some large chopped root vegetables to include
Potato
Rutabaga
and whatever, parsnip, carrot, I'm a root-vegetable chop me up and add me
today I got some Brussels's Sprouts, trim and split
Onion, peel and slice large
I got me some peeled Garlic cloves
some bacon slices, chopped
tossed with any oil and add
fresh Thyme, Rosemary, salt and pepper
Place in large roasting pan

mmmm Bacon

SOME WORDS ABOUT CAJUN BLACKENING POWDER.
I make my own so you can too.
Paprika
Chili Powder
Cayenne Pepper
Ground Thyme
Ground Oregano
Garlic Powder
Combine with Salt and Black Pepper

looks like 'dis

Here we go wit' some Meat-Loaf

Take your Holy Trinity and sweat in a large pan, add salt and pepper

Holy Trinity

sweat

Remove from heat and add to your ground beef.
Add egg , bread-crumbs and Blackening-Powder.

Don't forget salt

Mix that all together by hand. The warmth of your hands will activate the proteins and give your product some body. Shape into a loaf on a large open pan.

I said Meat-loaf didn't I

Place your pan of vegetables and your loaf in an oven set at 400 degrees. Leave it for now. Gonna take at least an hour.

Let's move on to Red Gravy. This is basically a Roux finished with Black Coffee and Tomato Puree. Easy.

In a wide pan, render your bacon until brown, all fat pooled in the pan.

rendering bacon

Once all the bacon is browned, add your flour and stir around until it stops smelling starchy. You'll know, trust me. Toss in the TB of Blackening Powder, toss around, it will all stick together. Add in one big splash all the coffee. Stir around.

You'll end up quickly with a big pile of yuck. Don't worry. Once you add the Tomato it all makes sense.

Now add your Tomato Puree. Stir around on medium heat.

Add Basil and dried Bay-Leaf, Simmer for a bit. Check seasonings.

See? I said it would all make sense.

Your loaf and veggies should be done by now, let the loaf rest. The vegetables may benefit from more time under heat. Turn 'em over and let those go for another while. Look for some brown.

Plate up, use as much of the gravy as you want.

This is

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

Imagination flies on the wings of basics. Part 2

2012-10-26T13:30:00.000-07:00

We got the Moist cooking methods down right? Let's move on to the dry.
Here's something to know. Burnt tastes good. Well ok, not BURNED but caramelized. Sit down kids I have a story to tell.
Once upon a time a very long time ago when we all ate raw Mastodons and Saber-Tooth Tigers ate us. Some unknown proto-chef dropped his cold haunch of yuck into the fire. Once he dug it out and pawed off all the ashes he (or maybe she) discovered something wonderful. Cooked food is better than raw.

There's some science here. See the thing is this, we don't digest raw food well, despite what the left-coast food-fascists tell us. We lack the enzymes to break down the cell walls of most proteins and vegetables. Although uncooked food contains more nutrients, we can't digest them if they are still inside those cells. Plus and YAY!! heat adds savoriness and color and also breaks down connective tissue which we can't digest without it. Take a bite of a raw Rib-eye if you don't believe me.
Here's another fun fact. Our palettes are geared towards complex flavors. Nature steers us towards what's best. Trust your guts. Fire makes everything better.

we DO however need a certain amount of raw fruits and vegetables in our diet, so don't be stupid and refuse yourself the pleasure of a fresh apple, leafy greens etc.

Roasting: DRY
This involves surrounding the item with intense heat. It's terrific for most proteins with surface fat and all vegetables. Renders fat and produces a succulent finished product.

roasting both chicken and vegetables

Grilling: DRY

I'm from Arizona. Grilling is our State sport. A friendly argument exists between the charcoal vs gas crowds but that's a different article. It's food placed over heat suspended by a grill. This works wonderfully for anything. I've grilled meat, vegetables and fruit. You cannot deny the loveliness of grilled peach halves then filled with a mixture of Ricotta and honey.

Lisa K's Cumin and Lemon chicken

Bake: DRY

Done by surrounding food with heat. This applies to any layered meat or vegetable. Bake you say? Isn't that what we do to cakes, muffins and bread? Well sure, same process. What did you think Mom was doing to that casserole? Stick it in an oven and go nuts.

Who remembers Arthur the giant Zucchini?

Cooking with fat. NO, NO, COME BACK HERE. Sit back down, fat loves you.

Saute: DRY but with fat. See? It's ok

A tremendously useful cooking method. It involves cooking in a large hot surface with a small amount of fat. Absolutely my favorite cooking method. It can be applied to meats, vegetables and fruits. Heat up your widest pan. Add a splash of oil, butter, whatever and add SMALL amounts of your item. This creates caramelization and fond which can be used to create a sauce.

do not crowd your pan

When sauteing, always add a pinch of salt, it helps pull out water which in turn pulls out natural sugars and creates a lovely brown color and rich flavors.

using fond and a splash of wine adds intense flavors

Pan-frying: DRY

A layer of fat is used to brown an item that has been coated in batter or breading. Or not. Depends on the item. Flip. The only difference between this and saute is the amount of fat. Use a wide pan. If I'm doing fish I use batter, if I'm not then I don't. If I'm doing chicken-fried steak then I do, If I'm making my Pollo-Cacciatora then I don't. So is this a moist or dry cooking method? Ask me.

pan-fried Catfish

Deep-frying.

Submerged into fat, either a batter itself (donuts) or batter-covered item. I don't do this much, 'nuff said. Go to the Arizona State Fair and knock yourself out. This important thing to know is to keep an even hot temperature. 400 degrees usually does it. Keep it dry. Change your oil if it starts to stink.

TODAY'S QUIZ. Again just one question. What did you cook today and what cooking method did you use and why?

This is cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

Imagination flies on the wings of basics. Part 1

2012-10-22T13:37:00.000-07:00

"Oh no", you are saying to yourself. "Nick is getting on his soapbox again." Well yes, and no.
The real secret to knowing how to cook is simple. Learn the basic cooking methods and what to apply them to. That's what we learn in Chef School and yes we pick-up a lot of recipes too.
Let me ask you this. What's easier, memorizing a book of recipes or learning some basic cooking methods and some simple facts about ingredients and applying them. Right.

Now then, there are two groups of cooking methods. MOIST and DRY. There's a quiz later so pay attention.

The factor in deciding which to use is the consistency of our main ingredient. High fat and connective tissue? Or delicate, low in fat? Is it a fibrous vegetable? Is it a starch? Is it a protein? Fish? Beef? Whatever, there is a cooking method appropriate for it.

There are only a few cultures in the world that have codified this and they are often referred to as the "super-cuisines" what are they?

To demonstrate, I'm going to be posting some photos from past articles, we've used just about all methods in the last three years. See? You were learning stuff and you didn't even know it.
You're welcome.

Poaching: MOIST
Done in hot but not boiling liquid. It's used for things like flakey white fish, eggs out of the shell or meats to remove any unwanted flavors or to par-cook it for finishing later. Sure, water is fine but think of the possibilities when you use fish, chicken or vegetable stock. Use white wine for shellfish or chicken. Add herbs, aromatics and spices to make your own mark.

Poaching the chicken for Mariam's Assyrian Chicken

Simmer: MOIST
Bring to a boil and let simmer. Standard instruction on countless recipes but what exactly does that mean? Simmering is still kinda boiling but is JUST under a rolling boil. Boiling is a violent agitation of liquid and while useful in some recipes is absolute death to most proteins. Simmering is much gentler and gets you a better finished product. Keeping a lid on once you reach boiling and turning the heat down drastically gets you there. Check it often. Related to Braise which we'll talk about next.

bring chicken stock up to a boil, remove scum and lower to simmer

Braise: MOIST
Braising is done by cooking in a smallish amount of liquid, usually stock, wine or whatever. It's great for large pieces of protein with lots of connective tissue. Meats are usually browned first and the liquid added after. Pot-Roast is a great example of this. It's also useful for fibrous vegetables like cabbage. Braising breaks down tough parts and slowly infuses the finished product with any flavoring agents incorporated in the liquid. If you've been following this blog you'll see it a lot. It can make even the cheapest cuts world-class.

wine makes a terrific Braising medium

Blanch: MOIST

Simply, used to par-cook or partially cook an item. If you've ever cooked professionally you know what this is. Blanch your green-beans and finish later. Great if you're in a position where you want to get as much cooking out of the way now. It's done quickly in full on boiling liquid, the item is put in, cooked partially and either held warm or chilled in ice-water. I use this method to remove peels from fruits or vegetables. The other useful trick is to Blanch pasta and set aside in ice-water, then remove and hold dry until added to a pan-sauce. The method that uses Blanching to remove peels is called "concasse"

part deaux

Blanching part one

Steam: MOIST
Used like poaching for delicate foods or in cooking foods where you want to feature the natural flavors. Great for vegetables, chicken breast and fish. Adds moisture but leaves foods fresh tasting without adding any fat.

Here's the answer to the question "what are the "super-cuisines?" They are of course The Italians, The French and The Chinese. Although there is a friendly argument that The Moroccans belong on the list. What they did instead of just handing down recipes is to examine and scientifically record WHAT method worked with WHAT ingredient. While there are some truly remarkable cultural cuisines out there, it is generally thought that the "supers" and their cooking methods are the basis for all of it.

OK the QUIZ.
There's only one question. What did YOU cook this week and what cooking methods did you use?

I did Classic Chicken and Dumplings which uses Simmer, Braise and Steam.

Next time...DRY COOKING METHODS

For now this is cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

Ciao

I don't care that it's 95F today. I say it's FALL. Big pot of red.

2012-09-28T13:05:00.003-07:00

Ragu. Not the crud in a jar. Real Ragu. Feeds an army. Empties out the fridge. Bottle of red wine, lots of tomato, lots of herbs.
This is my take on the classic Italian-American version which uses three different proteins. Today I got a Beef Chuck steak, a Pork-chop with bone, some salt pork and some chicken gizzards, livers and such. A tug of Basil, Rosemary and Parsley from the back-yard. This is a rich and complex-flavored dish but is actually really easy to make (shhh it will be our secret.)
Takes a while but easy to put together. Grab your biggest pots and let's get started.

CHEF NICK DOES RAGU:

Mise-en-place

2 carrots
2 stalks celery
1 large yellow onion
3 cloves garlic
3 pieces Salt Pork

Pork
Beef
Chicken livers, gizzards

Bottle of dry red wine
Chopped fresh herbs. Parsley, Rosemary, Oregano, Basil.
A couple dry Bay Leaves
and my secret ingredient, one piece of Orange Peel. I don't remember where I picked that up from but thank-you whomever.
Olive Oil

Any special vegetables you have lying around. Today I used a Red Pepper and some Patapan Squash. I like Eggplant in this but sad me, no got.
Don't be afraid to add stuff.
Mushrooms are awesome in this but my little niece is allergic so no go.

1 large can Tomato Puree, best you can afford
same of Crushed Tomato.
OK sure if you have a junk-load of fresh than use that but you'll need to peel and de-seed
(un-seed?, I dunno) and crush by hand.

Black Pepper, Kosher salt.

The thing to remember is that this is going to cook for a while so large pieces are the order for the day.

I've mentioned in other articles that Italian cooking uses something called a Battuto. This uses the same aromatics as the French Mirepoix with the addition of Garlic and Salt Pork. The idea being that all of it gets sweated together and forms the base of whatever you're making, soup or sauce, which when you think about it are really the same thing.

Start your Battuto with the carrot, onion, celery and garlic. Again, today we're looking for a medium dice. In other dishes you'd take this down into almost a paste.

Chunk up the Salt-Pork and toss all that together. Set aside.

Any special Vegetables you want to use, chop up large and keep on a separate plate.

Gather up your animal parts. Large dice please. Save any bones. Keep the chicken parts separate. We'll use those last. Wash your board.

nice sized pile of this

Grab all your fresh herbs and rough chop. That's all your prep, really it is. Unless you count opening up 2 cans and a bottle of wine and I never do. You're ready to go.

Heat up a large pan, add some Olive Oil. Add a handful of your meats. Season a bit and let them sit on high heat until they give, we only want a light sear. Once they give, turn the pieces over and do the other side. Remove to a plate and do the rest. EXCEPT FOR THE CHICKEN PARTS. We'll do those last. Once all your meat is done, put the pan back on medium heat for the last part.

chicken livers, separate

Now, on the bottom you've got all this golden-brown stuff. Put the pan back on heat and add just a splash of your wine. Instantly it will boil. Use a wooden spoon, scrape up quickly and set aside.

Add caption

All that stuff is what we Chefs call "flavor" Ok yeah I'm a smart-ass. It's actually called "Fond" and is a result of caramelized sugars naturally occurring in meats and vegetables.

Done with the meat for now. Start heating up a deep pot. Add a tiny splash of Olive Oil and all the Battuto with a large pinch of both salt and pepper. We just need to sweat here, no browning. Add the Bay-Leaf and piece of Orange Peel. Toss around for a minute.

Add any bones, toss again. Add all fresh herbs and any special Vegetables you'd like to add. Toss around again. Add all your cooked meats. AND guess what? Toss around again.

THEN, my favorite part. Add the rest of the wine, all at once. Bring to a simmer and stirring, let the alcohol cook off (you'll know, use your nose)

Turn down your heat just a little and add both cans of Tomato stuff.

I want to marry you

Check seasoning. Bring to a gentle simmer, put the lid on and let it go for, oh say....at least a couple hours. Stir occasionally, no sticking. This can go on all day. Once everything has cooked together you'll want to crack the lid a little and let it reduce slowly. We're aiming for sauce, not soup.

It's even better if after the cooking you let it sit in the 'fridge overnight and re-heat the next day. Make a big grip of large type Pasta. You can even, if you're so inclined to just dump a mess of al dente pasta into the pot and just let people serve themselves, that's ok with me. Also, you'll want to fish around and pull out your Bay-Leaf, bones and Orange Peel.

Serve up with some grated Parmesan. Maybe garnish with some more fresh Basil. Your call.

This is cooking poor. eating rich

Go get your grub on

CIAO

I got dibs on the stale bread. Puddin'.

2012-09-07T18:44:00.000-07:00

stale bread and day-old muffins

What do we do with stale, dried out bread? Sure, throw it out. Ass-hats. NO!! Save it, who cares if it's dried out.

Got some three-day-old muffins from the local box-store? I got plans. This is cooking poor, eating rich. Get some milk, any dried fruit, raisins, cranberries, cherries are just dandy. Get 3 hen-berries please. I grabbed a nectarine and a bag of frozen cherries. Get some ground cinnamon and sugar. Butter. Yes, butter.

Here we go. Can you hear me? Am I shouting? We throw away more food than we consume. I can make a dessert from what most would call waste. You can too.

Mise-en-place

I got some sliced, stale, french bread, 'bout 6 slices

3-day old banana-chocolate muffins, broken into pieces

Dried fruit. 'bout 1/4 cup, use any, raisins, cherries, cranberries, prunes

softened butter

cinnamon-sugar ( 1/4 cup sugar tossed with 1 TB cinnamon)

Gotta get your bread into big cubes. Smear with butter, place in a big bowl, toss with cinnamon-sugar

smear with butter, toss in cinnamon-sugar

Anybody else got some stale muffins? Break those up with your hands. Add to the bowl.

got it?

in a measuring cup, dump your milk, break open those 3 eggs, whisk together, add vanilla extract

Best vanilla comes from Mexico

Whisk away. Dump into your bowl of scrap bready pieces. Add a hand of dried fruit and walk away. Watch some Downton Abbey for like 2 hours. Let it all soak together.

soakedy soak soak...laddity la

Grab your widest casserole dish, smear the sides with butter, yes butter

Put all that stuff in it, bake off at 325 degrees until puffy, 'bout 45 minutes.

Sauce:

grab a bag of IQF cherries

add 1/4 cup of sugar

nectarine peel

slice, mince..

juice of same

pinch of cinnamon

in a small pot, bring to boil, stir and remove from heat.

Puree, THUNDER-STICK

Strain it all through. What? You don't have a wire-mesh strainer?

A one

a two

The pudding should be ready by now. Puffy. Let's plate up. Serve with a bit of the sauce.

I used a ring-form.

Or maybe

Cooking poor, eating rich.

Get your grub on.

Ciao

2012-09-07T15:44:00.000-07:00

You cook in a kitchen, not a vacuum. I reveal where the magic comes from and deals with more of Dad's giant produce.

2012-08-31T16:01:00.002-07:00

I know what you're thinking. "WAHHH NICK all your recipes scare me, I can never cook like you."

I call BS

I know most Chef's would have you believe everything they do comes from on high like some stone tablet from Mount Sinai. I ain't true. Inspiration can come from any direction. For me it's part my Mom and Dad, part friends, part just stuff that I see or hear about or experience. It'll just hit me. "Hey you know what would be even COOLER?" Add this, subtract that, change this, yippity-yehaa, something new.

I've had several postings that came from an idea through an e-mail or conversation, someone wanted to share a family recipe or a favorite meal. Reneene's Chulupa-Beef, Mariam's Assyrian chicken, Mom's Rum-Balls...etc.
It's not that there was anything wrong with the original, it's just more fun for me to play around with an idea than to reproduce it exactly, write about it and take the credit. That would be stealing.

Also, my Dad is at it again with the super-huge produce. Remember Arthur and Philip (the giant zucchini) from a year ago? He grows everything in horse manure and sand. Would ya look at the size of that patapan squash? Nobody told him he's supposed to harvest it small. So anyways.....

About a year ago my WHS friend Lisa K. sent me this nifty little recipe using one of my favorite spices, Cumin. Here it is right from her email.

Its a no brainer...I like to do Cornish game hens...the juice of 4 or 5 lemons...lots of butter to make the sauce brown and thicken...salt ...pepper ...and tons of cumin...I sprinkle enough to make the chx almost green...I do the cumin last so it doesn't get "washed" off the meat...I bast it here and there and the butter makes it golden brown...so if some cumin comes off during basting it's all in the sauce...the sauce just needs to reduce in the oven and its magic! Baste often...oh yeah ...I bake it at about 375 to get the liquids reduced in the oven...I also do put the pan low in the oven so sauce will reduce faster...I do this with chx breasts too...they just don't stay in the oven as long...so I really work the sauce lower in the oven...love it...totally good and totally good for you healthwise...I hope you enjoy!...let me know how you like it ..
I got more recipes if you are ever blocked...loll

Just like Lisa's

Is there something wrong here? Did I think it was flawed? NO WAY. It's great just the way it is. Lord knows I love Cumin but when you send me a recipe it's like giving me a new toy, I gotta monkey with it.

CHEF NICK'S (and Lisa's) CUMIN LEMON CHICKEN.
Mise-en-place

One whole chicken, divided.
4 cloves garlic, shmushed
Fresh Mint
1/3 cup of ground Cumin*
1 TB Chili Powder
2 Lemons. I'll show you what to do later.
6 oz Greek Yogurt, unflavored please, duh
Olive Oil
Kosher Salt and crushed Black Pepper

*Some words about using ground spices: When using stuff like Cumin or Chili Powder in a dish like this it's a good idea to toast them up a little. Just heat up a small pan and toss around for a bit. This activates the oils in the spices and really brings out the flavor. In this case we all know what Cumin smells like ok? Should I say it? It's a musky spice and so is my armpit, 'nuff said.

toasting up both the cumin and chili powder

As soon as it starts to toast up, toss it around in the pan and remove from heat, dump into a bowl.

Add the juice from both lemons and all of the peel from one. Here's how you do that. Get a peeler and gently peel JUST the yellow part away from the nasty bitter white stuff underneath. Try for a good long strip.

Lay a couple pieces at a time on top of each other and carefully turn them into very small shreds.

Turn them across and carefully render them into small tiny squares.

That's my hand, it's how ya know I'm keepin' it real

You'll end up with a pile of this stuff.

BUT NICK I BOUGHT THIS EXPENSIVE MICRO-PLANE THINGY, CAN'T I USE THAT?? Sure, Micro-planes have their place, that place is in the bakery where you don't want the texture to interfere with the final product. In this dish we don't want soft little strings of peel, we want all that lemony stuff.

Slice the lemons in half and squeeze out the juice through your fingers to remove the seeds into the same bowl. I'd put up a picture but I can't squeeze lemons, remove seeds and take a picture at the same time.

Don't throw those exhausted lemons halves away, if you pack them with salt as they dry out they make little but mighty room de-oderizers.

takes the funk out of your life

Ok so in the bowl you should have the spices, lemon peel and lemon juice. Add the Greek Yogurt, smushed Garlic Cloves, chopped fresh Mint, big pinch of Black Pepper, smaller pinch of Kosher Salt and a solid amount of olive oil. Whisk all that together, it looks like this.

Dump that over your divided Chicken pieces, nice even coat on all sides please and let sit in the 'fridge for 'bout 3 episodes of True Blood. Bilith is the funniest word I heard this whole week.

Let's turn our attention to the Patapan Squash. I just sliced right across

tossed them in, Salt, Pepper, Garlic and Olive Oil. In that order.

laid the slices across the grill.

turned 'em once, removed from heat, added some chopped fresh Basil -done.

Here's the science. Yogurt (Greek style, that crap from anyone else is dead) is just full of wittle tiny enzymes that help extract all the yuck from our bird. Many cultures across the world use different substances to accomplish the same thing.In the U.S. we brine (unless you're a douche) In the U.S. South they use butter-milk. In Latin-America they use citrus juice and vinegar. In Europe, wine. In Asia they turn to fermented Soy. Whatever you use, the process is the same. Remove the blood and stuff, save the nummy. No idea what I'm talking about?

Heat up the grill, grab the tongs. 400-425 F please. Bill S. Kevin P. Are you paying attention? Of course you are.

Lay your Chicken pieces skin side down.

if you grab them and they feel stuck, let them go on heat until they release

When they give, flip them over.

fire good

Just plate up. Garnish with some fresh lemon peel and mint.

Yeah I did some rice pilaf action, I gotta keep some magic for myself

We are cooking poor, eating rich.

Get your grub on.

Ciao

p.s. Hey Troy, she's a keeper.

Don't tell ME there's no food in the house.

2012-08-06T13:47:00.000-07:00

see anything you like?

Leftovers. Don't scream and run-away, just hear me out.

I offered my sister-in-law a challenge. "Pull a bunch of stuff you want to get rid of out of either the fridge or freezer and I'll cook dinner tonight."

Just put whatever on the cutting board. I have something to prove. Keeping basic, good ingredients at ALL times means you ALWAYS have dinner. So with an evil laugh as she was leaving for the day and out of sight, she did just that. I heard thunking and that plastic bag rustle. I came out of hiding and took a quick look. Just like that certain TV show I have to use all the ingredients but can add anything else from the pantry.

Neat, right? Let's get to work.

We have as you can see.

Ground turkey

Roma tomatoes

Some peppers

Bacon bits

Celery

Pre-cooked brown rice.

Black apricots

Whole-grain mustard

garlic, onion scraps

Green chilies in a jar

And of course my sister-in-law keeps a mean kitchen with a great selection of spices, fresh herbs and the like. I love her to tiny little bits.

In addition I used some fresh mint and basil from the backyard. An egg, some bread crumbs. Pinch 'o' this and that. You'll see.

CHEF NICK DOES CRAZY CURRY MEATBALLS WITH RICE SALAD.

ok first thing is to get organized and prepped. I knew I would have to get the skin off those apricots so I started some hot water and got a bowl of ice. This is called concasse. Just drop them into boiling water, count to 40 and plunk them into the ice water.

Peels come right off. Chop it up. I found some of those kiddy cups of Mandarin orange slices and added one of those to the mix. Chopped up 2 stalks of celery, chopped seeded Roma's, the chilies, a dab of the mustard and the left-over brown rice. Found a bit of unflavored greek yogurt (perfect) added that as my binder with fresh Basil, Mint and Parsley. Checked my seasoning and added a touch of paprika and cumin.

Put that in the 'fridge to chill.

Ground turkey time. Meatballs are pretty easy but without any fat in them are really really blah. Lucky for me I had some bacon bits to play with but I didn't want the smokey flavor so I did what anyone would do, I put those bits in a strainer and poached them in hot water. Leaves behind the bacon, takes away the fake smoke flavor.

On my way. Added chopped onion, garlic, mint and parsley again, salt-pepper, a little chili powder, one egg, some bread-crumbs I found and a splash of milk.

use your hands to mix !!

Got it all mixed together and using slightly damp hands got the ball rolling. I just baked them off at 375.

Time to finish up.

A word about curry. Unless you are buying it from a nice man named Ghandi, do not buy the pre-made stuff in a tin box. Easy enough to make your own. Just follow the list of spices and add or subtract at will. Here's the ratio I use. Turmeric (yellow), Cumin(brown), a touch-a-touch of Cardamom(grey) and some chili powder(red).

Mine looks like this.

When working with ground spices you should always throw them on heat first rather than add them to a finished sauce. In this case I added them after I started the peppers, celery, garlic and onions.

I heated up my pan added 2 TB of butter, yes butter. Then the veg and tossed them around with the spices adding a pinch of salt and black pepper.

Add about a TB of white flour at this point and toss that around to absorb any remaining butter, we're basically making a roux.

Finish by adding some whole milk which is what I had. Even better if you have any coconut milk around but I didn't. Bring it up to simmer and continue to stir until thickened.

The meatballs should be done by now so I just lifted them from the baking pan and added them to the sauce, turning to coat and let them on simmer for a few. Pretty much done at this point.

I plated with some trimmed Romaine lettuce. A nice spicy bite with the meatballs with a cool-down from the rice salad.

We are cooking poor, eating rich.

Go get your grub on.

Ciao.

Terrible Year? Use more Greece.

2012-07-27T12:51:00.001-07:00

My friends. I did something stupid. I forgot who I was.
Late last year I asked for advice from someone I trusted and respected, a mentor. Someone I hoped could improve this blog and maybe help expand it into something greater. I'll never do that again.
I was told I was being silly. "Everybody has a food-blog these days, and anyway you aren't really a Chef anymore."
The dumb thing I did was listen and it took me half a year to say "FUCK YOU."
Let's get to work.

I've mentioned before that I collect old cookbooks. I especially love the "Neighborhood, church ladies, military wives, community auxiliary women, published on a copy-machine" ones. WHY? Because these people you've never heard of will never be on "Top Chef" will never own a restaurant and will certainly never-ever EVER be a celebrity Chef. They do The Lord's work instead. They cook for their families.
Case in point.
One of my dearest friends, someone I've known since High School uncovered a treasure while cleaning. A self-published book of Yia-Yia's recipes from our local Greek Orthodox Church who every year puts on a fantastic food orgy known locally as "GREEKFEST."As many times as I've attended I am certain I have eaten her Grandmother's cooking. I hope she approves of my efforts.

It's pure gold

Right. Here we go.

CHEF NICK DOES GREEK NACHOS.

MISE-EN-PLACE

HUMMUS

2 cans Garbonzo Beans. "Nick I can't find those, can I use Chick-Peas instead?"

1-2 good sized clove of fresh garlic

Tahini, 'bout a 1/4 cup. No joke it's getting really much easier to find

Good pinch of ground Cumin

Small pinch of chili powder (or not)

1 TB fresh grated lemon peel

juice from one lemon

a good amount of Extra Virgin Olive Oil

fresh chopped Mint and Parsley, enough that you have some left over for garnish

Chopped Peppadews. These are a sweet-spicy pickled pepper, most good European Deli's carry some form. Chopped. I used these to add some heat, 'cus it's Nachos.

salt and pepper

One 8 year old Niece to help with all the cleaning (optional)

Pita-chips. OK sure I could have cut up and fried some Pita bread but shut up

Some Tomatoes, seeded, diced.

Cucumber, seeded diced

Feta cheese.

Drain and rinse the beans. Dump into a bowl with steep sides. Add the Tahini, garlic, cumin, chili powder, lemon peel and juice, salt and pepper. A solid slorp of the oil and a portion of the mint and parsley. Using a hand held blender (thunder-stick) start blending. OR dump the aforementioned into a regular blender. Adding a little water to help along the way isn't a bad idea. Check your seasonings.

Most commercial Hummus is very very smooth and that's fine but when I make this at home I always stop long before and leave it alone 'cus I like a rougher texture. Does that mean you have to? No, of course not.

I know, wasn't that just stupid easy? Yeah it was. Make sure to taste your finished product and add whatever you think it's missing, little more salt, maybe more lemon juice, maybe you're a spice person and need more heat? Whatever.

Plate with the tomato and cucumber, top with the Feta cheese and the Peppadews and don't forget the extra mint and parsley. Knock yourself out.

I'm still here

Cooking poor, eating rich

get your grub on

CIAO

Butter, compound and otherwise

2012-01-08T16:56:00.000-08:00

Here I am, interviewing another wanna-be Sous Chef. I've scanned HUNDREDS of applicants and have pulled the most promising into my cell of an office. I've prepared a battery of tough questions.
She's short, really-really short. A pretty smile and a head-full of dark hair. She seems determined and passionate.
"What can you tell me about yourself?" It's a reasonable question.
"What the hey? You're so funny Uncle Nicky."
That wasn't the reply I was looking for. She's obviously playing me. I'll have to be more aggressive.
"Why should I hire you? Where have you worked before? What can you bring into the kitchen? "
"I love you." She grabs my legs and hugs me tight. (I said she was short)

Yeah ok, she's hired. I'm such a push-over. I love you too my little BOO. Plus I don't have to worry about child labor laws. I'm not paying her. Her name is Brynn.

Brynn is my wonderful little niece, my brother Pat's little girl. She is all of 7 years old and can already make eggs to order. I wasn't much older than her when I started cooking. She watches me de-bone poultry. LOVES to watch me dice vegetables and always-always helps when she can. Cook with the kids. How else will they learn?
Luckily she got a head start, her Mom; my sister-in-law Yvette was taught by her mother and has some serious game in the kitchen.

This was all Brynn's idea. She learned how to make butter from scratch in school and was so very-very eager to tell me all about it. I thought it would make a great story so here we are.

This is really fun to make with kids. Feed them a sugary cereal for breakfast for energy and let them go NUTS.

The yield from cream to butter is roughly half as much cream as you start with. I started with 32 ounces so we got about a pound of butter. It's just super the way it is but I included some compound butter ideas. There is some technical information along the way but it's almost foolproof.

No I didn't MAKE her shake all the cream, only half. I used my kitchen-aid mixer, duhh.

Fresh whole cream. Pour it into a glass jar with a tight lid and have a kid shake it. SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE..SHAKE YOUR BOOTIE, SHAKE YOUR BOOTIE.

Brynn is all focused..

Agitating whole cream gets those fat molecules to start sticking together. It takes some time. Be patient.

Pour cream into the bowl of a counter top mixer. Use the whisk attachment. The cream goes through 3 stages before it turns into butter.

it starts to thicken

On a lower speed start whipping the cream until it begins to thicken. Then turn up the speed. It's almost whipped cream but much softer. In fact it's called "soft-peak"

whipped cream

Just keep going. You will start to recognize our dear friend whipped cream. This is the "stiff-peak" stage.

After a little time you'll notice a slight color shift. It starts to turn a pale yellow. This is the indicator that the butter fat is starting to clump together and moving toward our finished product.

Keep your eye on it. When you start seeing a watery-milky liquid forming and clumpy yellow stuff sticking to the whisk SLOW your roll down to a slower speed to keep from splattering. It's the buttermilk separating out and it means we're almost done.

Hopefully you have a very helpful assistant like I have and they can get you a large bowl of ice and water.
Remove the mixer bowl and over a large container pour out the contents and separate the butter from the buttermilk through a strainer.

it really is that easy

DO NOT DO NOT throw away the buttermilk (the stuff left over) jar it and use it to make pancakes, soda bread, biscuits. A word of advice. The buttermilk you made is NOT THE SAME as the store bought stuff. Yours has a higher fat ratio and isn't as acidic. If you like, add a drop or two of white vinegar before you put it away and that'll make it even better.

Hey remember when I mentioned a large bowl of ice and water? It's coming in handy right about now.

WITHOUT squishing any butter through the strainer. Soak and wet your hands in the ice water and gather up all those butter chunks. Put them in the water and start to squish them together. The water will get milky and that's ok. Continue kneading the butter, if your water gets really milky just change it out and keep going. If you don't do this step it's fine. Your butter will still taste good it just won't last as long. Again, the ratio is we started with 32oz cream from that we got one pound butter and 16oz of buttermilk. Pretty good return.

Put your butter in a small plastic container and keep it in the 'fridge. You can also freeze it if you aren't using it soon. Fat freezes really well. The buttermilk you can keep in a tight sealing jar in the fridge. Since we removed the fat it'll keep for a long while.

A few words about salt. Most butter you see in the store has added salt. That's just dandy. I got no problem with salted butter. It adds a dimension of savoriness that you'd miss if you wanted it on your toast. HOWEVER, unsalted butter is terrific for any baking needs. The ratio for salted butter is 1/4 tsp for every 4 oz of butter.

COMPOUND BUTTER:

It's butter you added stuff to. It can be sweet or savory. Terrific on top a Fillet-Mignon, melted on Artichoke, a dollop on a fine fillet of Sea-Bass makes everyone believe you spent your summer vacation working in a French bistro. A list of bitchin' stuff you can add. Use wisely. Just mix it into soft butter.

Some regular. Orange-honey butter* and Shallot, herbs. *

Maytag or Shropshire bleu cheese. Use on top a seared beef-steak.

Minced shallot, salt, lemon peel and herbs like rosemary, parsley, thyme. Use on beef or pork. *

Lemon peel and minced chives. Terrific on fish.

Minced orange peel and honey. On fish or just smeared on bread. *

Grated lime-peel and grated fresh ginger. Use on fish for an Asian accent

Cinnamon-sugar and Tabasco. Melted onto popcorn.

Minced garlic and grated Parmesan. Also really fantastic on popcorn but even better melted into warm ravioli or tortellini.

Grated lemon peel, Tabasco and minced garlic. Shrimp, wrap in foil. Figure it out.

Minced tarragon and shallot, super on fish

There are millions of combinations. Use your imagination.

Here's what I hope you take away from today. Let the kids help you in the kitchen. Someday they will be the adults and will treasure the memories you gave them. Someday maybe, they will share beloved memories of time spent in the kitchen with you. I hope so.

I love you little BOO

We are cooking poor but eating rich.
Go get your grub on.
Ciao.

Pasta e Fagioli (Pasta fajzool) 2012

2012-01-02T17:17:00.000-08:00

In the late part of the 1800's in Prescott, Arizona a young man had just graduated from High School and would later in life become one of the most dynamic and respected mayors in American history. I'm speaking of course of Fiorello LaGuardia.
Why do I bring this up? He lived through rough times. Rougher than we have it now. He was mayor of New York City during the Great Depression and World War II.
He cooked poor and ate rich. Here's a quote from his city's newspaper from January 1945.
"A beans and macaroni dish. Scorned by the well-to-do, loved by the poor is healthful and economical."
He was convinced to publish his wife's recipe. It's legendary.
It's an old tradition to serve beans early in the new year. Here's my recipe for that wonderful stew-like dish of simple ingredients combined and elevated to high honor. Best wishes to you all in 2012.

As an added bonus, how to make chicken stock.

Chicken bones, mirepoix, bay-leaf and parsley stems

I've mentioned before that you should always save chicken bones to make chicken stock. Remove wing tips, backs, thigh bones. Save in bags in your freezer, they always come in handy. Today I used up all my frozen stock so I grabbed stuff out of the freezer and 'fridge and made more. If you can boil water, you can make chicken stock. All you need are raw chicken bones (tip, remove any scrap of liver along backs, seriously) mirepoix pronounced meer-pwah (2 part onion, one part celery and carrot, scrap pieces are just dandy), bay leaf and whole pepper corns.
Add cold water to cover, bring to boil slowly.
As it gets close to a boil you'll notice a yucky, brown , foamy, clump of stuff gather on the surface.

Look at the side of my pot. Remove as much as you can

It's Albumin protein and it's actually helping you. It binds with any foul and dirty particles still attached to it and now you can remove it. Use a sharp-sided spoon or ladle and send all that scum into the sewer.
Bring everything to a gentle boil and take back down to simmer. DO NOT DO NOT hard boil your stock, it makes a gross mass of yuck.

strain and reserve

Once all the vegetables are cooked clear, pour through a strainer and throw away all the solid parts. Freeze stock in plastic containers. It comes in handy.

Chef Nick's Pasta e Fagioli

Mise-en-place
1 pound dried white beans.
1 can drained and rinsed garbanzo beans. I looked for dried but was unsuccessful.
1 pound dry small pasta
2 medium carrots, small dice
2 ribs celery, small dice
2 large yellow onions, small dice
3-4 slices Bacon cut into chunks
one Zucchini, medium dice
one yellow crook-neck squash, medium dice
2-3 dried Bay-leaf
1 tsp chopped fresh Rosemary
1/4 cup dried Oregano
a good tug of fresh Parsley, chopped
2 TB Tomato paste
half bottle of dry white wine
chicken stock
1 pound of mild Italian sausage. Slice into chunks and cook off separately, set aside for now
Kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper

Dump the dried beans into a colander and wash thoroughly under cold water. Remove any stones or weird shaped beans

In a large pot cover beans with cold water and bring to a solid boil, remove from heat and let sit for at least 40 minutes.
In the meantime:

cook off the sausage, slice into 1/2 inch chunks, use a small pan, remove and set aside for now.

On a large cutting board gather your carrots, celery, garlic and onion. Grab a sharp knife, slice and dice. Small dice bitches.

Alongside chop up your bacon. The Italians call this a Battuto. It's the base for most soups and sauces.

knife skills

Keep chopping up this mess, use the flat side of the blade to gather up and chop again until it looks like this:

Heat up a large, deep pot. Once hot, add a drizzle of olive oil and then the battuto with a big pinch of salt and pepper. Sweat thru. Add dried Oregano and Bay-leaf.

Add the Tomato paste and toss around until it starts smelling sweet.

add all the beans, toss around until hot and then pour in the wine.

keep stirring like crazy

Add enough chicken stock to cover everything by at least 2 inches. Bring back to a boil and add all squash.

Bring up to simmer for an hour or so. Check beans by grabbing one with a spoon and smearing it between your fingers. If it spreads like peanut-butter with no resistance, it's done. Add the sausage.

Bring back to a gentle boil and add the pasta

Once cooked through, serve up and eat up. Garnish with some grated Asiago or Parmesan. True stick to your ribs food.

For 2012. I pray all of you much joy and good-fortune

Go get your grub on.

CIAO !!

atlastacatering.com

Orange marmalade OR How Irma Rombauer reached down from kitchen heaven and bitch-slapped me.

2011-12-05T17:11:00.001-08:00

Irma's first step, soaking the quartered citrus

Hey, I don't know everything.
I keep learning. Lets me know I'm alive.
This is my story of how I dropped the ball. Don't worry, I picked it up and carried it to score.
Sometime last year I ended up with sack upon sack of oranges. Folks in Phoenix grow LOADS in their yards and once they find out you want some they will start leaving it on your doorstep. SO. Being me I wanted to find a way to utilize it all. I did some research (My copy of "Joy of Cooking" again) and taught myself how to make orange marmalade. I used ol' lady Irma's formula which is more than a little time-consuming and labor-intensive. What the hey, I'm single I have lots of time.

Wait for it.

Like most cookbooks written back then her chapter on preserving begins with lots of practical information on procedure, technique and wisdom. I skipped all that. DUHHHH.

I've used that formula many times. It's old-fashioned but it always worked for me. This year I wanted to make marmalade to give as Christmas presents. Her formula calls for 4 oranges, one lemon. I needed to make much much more so I did the math and started with 10#'s of oranges and lemons. I even took pictures. Here's some.

Here's me showing how to hand shred the fruit

oo what a waste of time, 10 pounds of oranges

the cooking of the fruit, 5 hours

inedible sludge

Failure. Even though I stood over it and kept stirring during the whole reduction process. The sugar-water ratio didn't turn in time for the peels to be cooked all the way through so I kept it on heat until all the white part disappeared. Unfortunately by then the sugar had started to caramelize. I was left with singed, orange flavored, soft-candy stage CRAP.

I did it. It was me. I didn't thoroughly research the process. Irma says it right there. These recipes have been tested for these amounts and should not be expanded unless by a very practiced and experienced cook. Well crap, Irma. The REASON she used the whole peel was because commercial pectin wasn't readily available in 1931 and so she had to use what was available in the pith of the peel.

Back to the drawing board, or in this case the cutting board.

Another 10 pounds of oranges. Back to research mode. Here we go.

Mise-en-place

10 pounds of clean fresh oranges

3 lemons

7 cups of sugar (abouts)

4 cups water and any juice, no more. Separate in half. The best way to do this is to dump any juice off your cutting-board into a large measuring cup and then add water to total 4 cups.

reserve 1/4 cup of the sugar in a separate container

2 packages of pectin. I did NOT use the low-sugar pectin. You'll use all of one packet and a little of the second.

pinch salt

Peeler

sharp knife

about 16-18 8oz BALL jars

a big pot of boiling water

another big pot for cooking the fruit

a small pot for cooking the peels

Grab your peeler. Take off JUST the orange part. Leave behind the white spongy evil part of the peel.

Now with your hands remove as much of the white part from the fruit as you can. Discard.

Slice fruit across to make wheels. Catch as much of the juice as you can. Remove any of the seeds and spongy white stuff from the center. Chop up the fruit and dump into a large pot for now.

Now, slice up all those peels. In 2 cups of your 4 cups of water and juice bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Set aside.

Take the separated 1/4 cup of sugar and combine it with the contents of 1 packet of pectin plus just a bit from the second packet. Stir it into your fruit.

Add the peels still in the water they cooked in, plus liquid. Add the rest of your remaining 2 cups of liquid.

Add your pinch of salt and the rest of the sugar (6 3/4 cups)

Bring to boil and simmer covered for 20-30 minutes. DO NOT LEAVE THE KITCHEN.

Keep it all on heat. Simmering, give it a good, deep stir every couple minutes.

Let's get those jars ready.

In a large pot cover the jars with water and bring to boil. Also boil any tongs and ladles you'll use.

Add the lids and rings after 10 minutes. Take back down to low-heat. With a pair of tongs reach down and remove jars.

Fill and carefully put on lids and rings. Tighten, and put back in hot water (off heat for 5 minutes. This will ensure a tight seal.)

Place bitchin' labels on lids. Mine are purple. GO WHS RAMS GO !!

It can take up to 2 weeks for the marmalade to set firmly. Relax. If it seems loose, give it more time.

I'm still cooking poor, eating rich.

Go get your grub on. Ciao

Here's what's available this season. $4.99 an 8oz jar.

If you live outside PHX then there'll be a shipping cost added.