Costa Rica Living Blog

Natural Parenting in Costa Rica

Tue, 22 May 2012 10:00:00 EDT

While there's no single definition of "natural parenting," my husband and I define this concept as raising our son in a way that comes naturally, regardless of social conventions. The details will be different for everyone, but when I found out we were expecting our first child, visions of cloth diapers, breastfeeding, and outdoor romps danced in our heads.

Costa Rica is very kid-friendly, and babies are almost like public property. Everyone is willing to lend a helping hand, but they also have their own opinions on how to raise your child. If you have Costa Rican family, you'll be bombarded by well-intentioned advice on everything from breastfeeding (you must nurse for six months minimum, or the world will end) to your baby's cries (let him cry it out; it's good for his lungs). Strike a compromise: listen well, but go with your gut.

As my husband and I waded through a sea of advice, we also worked to narrow down the details of our natural parenting style. We planned to breastfeed, cloth diaper, co-sleep (but not bed-share), play outdoors, and follow baby-led weaning. One notable discovery: the vaccination debate is nearly moot in Costa Rica. By law, all children are required to follow the government-mandated vaccination schedule, which is almost identical to the U.S. vaccine regimen. Some private doctors are willing to delay or selectively vaccinate, but this practice skirts the law. To enter public or private school, your children must be up-to-date on their shots.

I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Costa Rica is very pro-breastfeeding. During our parenting class, medical staff emphasized the financial and health benefits of nursing. After my son was born, a lactation consultant visited me several times a day in the hospital to give advice and help troubleshoot breastfeeding issues. The nursing staff supported my efforts, constantly praising my decision to nurse my son. As a new mother, unsure of what I was doing, this positive reinforcement was incredibly encouraging.

Now, almost three months later, I continue to feel supported and buoyed in my efforts. There is no shame in public breastfeeding in Costa Rica. In fact, as soon as my baby fusses, shop owners rush to find me a chair and a comfortable spot to nurse. No one stares while I feed him, and strangers often stop by to coo at my son. Making him wait until I find a corner to hide in is not expected or accepted.

Another surprise awaited me at the public hospital where my son was born. As soon as I had recovered from the birth, a nurse placed my newborn in my arms, and that is where he stayed for the duration of our two-day stay. There are no bedside cradles or hospital nurseries in public hospitals. To encourage the mother-child relationship, you will bed-share with your child. Yes, this may mean sleepless nights, but our constant togetherness so early in my child's life fostered an incredible bond.

The first stumbling block in our natural parenting plans was with diapering options. There were many reasons that we didn't want to use disposable diapers, and one was cost. A recent news report states that the average Costa Rican spends about $1,600 a year, per child on diapers. If the average child is fully potty trained by around 36 months, disposables represent a $4,000 investment!

And yet, cloth diapers are hard to find in Costa Rica. My husband and I ended up buying diapers in the U.S., and we spent $350 on everything we'll need until our son is potty trained. However, I've since learned that birdseye flat diapers (known locally as ojo de perdiz) and prefolds are readily available, and that a few stores sell modern cloth diapers. There's even a Costa Rican brand called BUBU that recommends 12 small and 12 large diapers for full-time diapering. At about $16 per diaper, you could save $3,500 over the course of one child's diaper life.

To date, most of our natural parenting decisions have been easy. My husband and I eat lots of fruits and vegetables, and so will our son (when he's ready). I find that living here encourages a healthy lifestyle, which extends to my family. Natural parenting in Costa Rica is easy, if you can just hop over a few hurdles.

Costa Rica Finally Goes Smoke Free

Tue, 15 May 2012 10:30:00 EDT

One of the caveats I accepted about living in Costa Rica was the pervasive smoking I encountered in public places. Costa Rica is a nation of tobacco aficionados, and as a non-smoker accustomed to the green laws of the States, I found it difficult to enjoy a dinner out when clouds of smoke often enveloped both my food and me. Fortunately, that is all changing. Last month, President Laura Chinchilla signed a new law that will protect all residents from the toxic toll of tobacco and secondhand smoke. Costa Rica is now part of the mounting list of Latin American countries taking a stance against the tobacco industry.

The anti-smoking law requires all public places to be 100% smoke-free; this includes workplaces, public institutions, bars, restaurants, bus stops and taxi stands. This groundbreaking legislation realizes Costa Rica’s pledge to protect public health after acceding to the World Health Organization (WHO) Framework Convention on Tobacco Control back in 2008. Some ten countries have accepted WHO policies, including Guatemala, Panama and Honduras. In 2011, Brazil became the largest country in the world to pass a 100% smoke free law.

I have always found it ironic that one of the most progressive countries in the realms of environment and public health was so slow to enact anti-smoking legislation. It’s worth noting that there have been positive steps in the right direction such as banning smoking in workplaces except in designated areas, and on all public buses – measures that took effect in the 80’s. But a full-fledged commitment to a smoke free nation brings relief and happiness to residents countrywide.

Additionally, the new law restricts the distribution and advertising of tobacco, authorizing manufacturers to place a pictorial warning on at least 50% of each cigarette pack on the dangers of smoking. Future advertising on billboards will also be regulated. Costa Rica joins seven other Latin America countries that require warning labels on cigarette packs, and now prohibits the sale of individual cigarettes – a popular item from most street vendors and shops. Cigarettes are still cheap compared to the rest of the world; despite a 4-cent tax increase per smoke, a pack only costs around $2.75, versus an average of $6.00 in the United States.

The restaurants and bars in my Central Valley hometown have already posted “No Smoking” signs, which keeps me hopeful. I'll be interested to see this law enforced throughout the country in the coming months. Kudos to Costa Rica for passing this life-saving measure into law; let’s hope the country continues to grow peacefully and, now, more healthfully in the coming years.

A Twist on Costa Rican Cuisine

Tue, 8 May 2012 14:00:00 EDT

Few culinary fixations beat my penchant for sushi. My introduction to the delicacy was in Brazil, during an all-you-can-eat night at a fantastic restaurant. As our large group sat Japanese-style on the floor, we laughed and downed warm sake while a tiny conveyer presented a constant rotation of delicious dishes. That night, my obsession began – I sampled everything from edamame and fresh seaweed salad to salmon rolls and tuna sashimi.

To this day, my first choice for dining out is sushi. When I first moved to Costa Rica, I lived in the San Jose suburb of San Pedro, home to the country's largest university – and all the accompanying amenities. I was thrilled to learn that there were nine sushi restaurants within a half mile of my house, and I immediately set out to try them all. I soon identified my favorite: Ozaki, which offered not only sushi, but also Peruvian cuisine and Nikkei – a Japanese-Peruvian fusion that rocked my world.

My favorite dish at Ozaki quickly became the Ceviche Tres Banderas (Three Flags Ceviche), a genius blend of ceviches, or raw fish preparations, from Costa Rica, Peru and Japan. At least once a month, I made my pilgrimage to dine on the delicious trilogy. Costa Rican and Peruvian ceviches are traditionally made with a white fish (sea bass or tilapia, most commonly), but their preparations are slightly different. While Costa Ricans favor mild garlic, onion, and sweet pepper, Peruvian ceviche uses different citrus juices and often has a slight kick thanks to spicy pepper. Ozaki's Japanese version was by far my favorite of the three; the chef had chosen fresh yellowfin tuna and spiced it with dried seaweed, toasted sesame oil and a spicy marinade.

When I moved away from San Pedro, I went into Three Flags withdrawal. To ease my suffering, I could either travel the two hours by bus to Ozaki, or I could invent a version of my own. (Obviously, forgoing the indulgence was not an option.) Armed with a grocery list compiled from Internet recipes, I headed to my closest Auto Mercado – the only supermarket I knew that offered sushi-grade fish – to pick up some white sea bass and ahi tuna. If you don't live near an Auto Mercado, but are within a reasonable distance of the coast, the local pier might have what you need.

While my recipe doesn't quite capture the flavors of Ozaki's blissful ceviches, I've found that it does take the edge off my cravings – and it's delicious in its own right. The wonderful thing about white fish is that it absorbs flavors very well, so you can create a signature ceviche all your own.

Emma's Dual Citizen Ceviche

Make sure all your ingredients are fresh. The herbs and vegetables should be crispy, or they will wilt and/or turn to mush in the citrus marinades. These ceviches are excellent served with a light salad of fresh greens.

Costa Rican Ceviche

1 pound boneless white fish, diced (sea bass is traditional, but you can also choose tilapia, flounder or any other mild white fish)
10-20 limes or lemons, juiced
1 small roll of cilantro
1 medium onion, sliced into thin rings
1 medium tomato, finely chopped
1-2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup chopped celery
Salt and pepper, to taste
Optional: 1/2 to 1 cup orange juice or ginger ale, for extra flavor
Optional: finely minced hot pepper

Mix all the ingredients together, and leave to marinate for 3-5 hours. Eat plain, or serve with saltine crackers.

Japanese Ceviche

1 pound ahi or yellowfin tuna, diced (sashimi grade)
4 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 limes, juiced
Dried seaweed, cut into ribbons for garnish
Toasted black and white sesame seeds
Recommended: Minced hot pepper – jalapeno (mild), Serrano (hot), or habanero (hottest; known in Costa Rica as chile panameno)
Optional: Green onion, minced

Mix all the ingredients together. The ceviche is ready to eat as soon as it is coated in the marinade, but if you want to infuse extra flavor, let it sit for a few minutes. Sprinkle with seaweed and toasted sesame seeds.

The Craft Beer Festival Experience

Sun, 29 Apr 2012 07:30:00 EDT

It was an afternoon of cheerful, ale-infused camaraderie. Offer fifteen lovingly made craft brews to a hop-starved nation, and you have a smashing success at the country’s first ever Craft Beer Festival. Held at Avenida Escazu this past week, the event sold out in minutes, and those smart enough to purchase VIP tickets in advance had passports to Costa Rica’s finest artisan beers.

In the world of craft beer, Costa Rica has wallowed in the doldrums for years. There’s a time and a place for an ice-cold Imperial, but there are many who consider body and actual flavor hallmark qualities of a good brew. While Bavaria has made some tepid forays into maltier varieties, Tico palates have grown accustomed to the bland pilsners reminiscent of Bud Light. Fortunately, that is all changing. Enter passionate beer lovers who decided to venture out of the realm of home brewing and into a burgeoning niche market. Several of the participating brewers had no distribution to speak of, while others, like the Cartago-based Costa Rica Craft Brewing Company, have a small but devoted following with their hoppy red Segua and smooth Libertas.

The festival – as beer festivals go – was a relatively intimate gathering. A couple hundred people milled about, gliding from one vendor to the next, eager to experience the stouts, porters, reds, and sublime pale ales on offer. As usual, I gravitated toward three promising letters in my passport of beer: I – P – A. There were several Pale Ales to choose from, on top of some appealing brews made with local ingredients like cane sugar, coffee and vanilla. La Perra Hermosa, a nanobrewery out of Mal Pais, served up a wicked Chocolate Orange Brown Ale, while start-up Treintaycinco turned heads with their seriously drinkable Majadera IPA.

The full-bodied Oatmeal Stout from Craft Brewing Company partnered like a dream with my Chimichurri fries, but what doesn’t go well with such deep-fried goodness? My personal standout was the deliciously dark Espiral, a complex chocolately ale that could harmonize with anything, though tiramisu came to mind. That’s the beauty of a good craft beer: its breadth of occasions, scope of flavors and ability to complement any meal, be it ethnic or of the deep-fried comfort variety. You just can’t say that about wine.

In addition to some cool mini-lectures, the festival hosted a beer tournament for homebrewers and professionals alike. First place went to a dark India Black Ale, entered by a group of four handsome Atenas homebrewers under the Hard Good Label. The IBA won rave reviews for its rich caramel notes, roasty flavor and piney hop finish, characteristic of a traditional IPA. The Hard Good team has created other boundary-pushing recipes such as a Hopped-Up Red Ale, a Huge Barley Wine, and an IPA-X.

All encouraging news for the local craft beer scene! I’m already looking forward to next year’s Festival de Cerveza Artesenal, and, dare I wish for a Costa Rica Craft Beer Week?

How to Eat a Pipa

Mon, 23 Apr 2012 07:45:00 EDT

Relaxing in the shade of a swaying palm, I hear a vendor hawking "pipa fria!" as he pushes his makeshift cart down the beachfront sidewalk. It's nearly noon on Playa Espadilla, one of my favorite beaches in Manuel Antonio, and the summer sun has got me parched. A nice cold drink of pipa is just what the doctor ordered -- both nutritious and rehydrating after a morning in the hot Costa Rican sun. The water from young, green coconuts is one of Mother Nature's gifts: just sweet enough, but not too saccharin, and packed with electrolytes. Leave your sports drinks at home, the clear liquid from a coconut (known as agua de pipa) contains magnesium, potassium and calcium, and at less than a $1 a pop, you can't beat the price.

With two expert hacks of a machete, the pipa vendor cuts off the top, places a straw through the flesh, and serves up one of the country’s most heavenly drinks. And after I slurp up the water, he opens up the nut to reveal the soft, white meat inside. While pipa vendors are more common in coastal areas, you can buy young green coconuts all over the country; check out the fruit aisles of your local market or grocery store. Here are a few tips for selecting and opening a coconut:

If you want coconut water (agua de pipa), always select a green coconut. Mature brown coconuts are wonderful to eat, but have minimal liquid inside.
Find the three dark spots on one end of the coconut; they look somewhat like a face.
Use a screwdriver, knife or something similar to pierce the one soft spot. Place a straw through the hole and you're ready to go.
With a machete, tap around the middle of the coconut until a large crack appears, allowing you to break the nut in half. Scoop the soft flesh out with a large spoon and enjoy!

Costa Rica's Earthquakes

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 09:00:00 EDT

For more than a year after I had moved to Costa Rica, I didn’t feel one earthquake or tremor; either they were too weak for me to register, or they occurred while I was sleeping. When I finally felt my first minor quake, I flew down the steps to celebrate with a visiting Costa Rican friend – I was one step close to experiencing all of Costa Rica!

Flanked by active tectonic plates on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts, Costa Rica is one of the most earthquake prone countries in the world. The Caribbean and the Cocos Plate are in constant motion, and when they pull apart or collide, they release geological forces, causing minor tremors to full-scale quakes. There are also 51 faults located throughout the country. Ranging in size from minute to large, faults form the boundaries for tectonic plates. When faults experience sudden movement, released energy can also create earthquakes.

Thankfully, most earthquakes in Costa Rica are minor, registering below a 5.0 magnitude. One factor that affects an earthquake’s strength above ground is the depth at which it occurs; the more shallow the fault line, the stronger it will feel to you. In 2010, the Costa Rican Volcanology and Seismology Institute recorded 111 quakes, ranging in magnitude from 1.5 to 6.2, and from .62 to 62 miles in depth.

In Spanish, earthquakes are known as temblores, or tremors, and are a minor inconvenience, mostly causing small ground vibrations. There’s no one way to experience a tremor: they can cause a rolling sensation, as if you were on a mini roller coaster, or a gentle vibration, like when your downstairs neighbors have the bass turned up too high.

In the last 100 years, Costa Rica has only experienced five major earthquakes, the most recent in 2009. Known as the Cinchona earthquake, it occurred near Poas Volcano, and registered a 6.1 magnitude at 2.8 miles below the ground. An estimated 34 lives were lost during the disaster, mostly due to substandard construction that was not earthquake-resistant. (Today, all new construction is required to meet strict safety controls and seismic standards.)

During a major earthquake, known as a terremoto, you will feel significant ground movement, and items will likely fall off of walls and shelves. Though strong earthquakes are rare, it’s best to prepare in advance. Secure large bookcases and display shelves to the wall, and store breakables on shelves with a small lip. In the event of an earthquake, authorities recommend that you do not run for cover, as most injuries occur when people inside attempt to move to a different location. Instead, crawl underneath a table or desk, or simply drop to the ground and cover your head until the shaking stops. The natural forces that make Costa Rica so incredibly beautiful are still hard at work, so it’s always good to be prepared.

Relocation Hotspot: Naranjo

Mon, 9 Apr 2012 08:00:00 EDT

Imagine a quaint village surrounded by rolling hills laden with coffee plants: this is Naranjo, a small town (population: 35,000) just 30 miles from the capital city of San Jose.

Situated in the Espirito Santo Hills of Costa Rica's Central Valley, Naranjo sits 3,400 feet above sea level and enjoys mild temperatures (70º F average) year-round. Though best known for its java production, Naranjo is more than just a coffee town: four major rivers drain into the region, yielding some of the Central Valley's most fertile land. In fact, the town earned its name, which means "orange tree," from the citrus groves decorating the countryside. Since the first settlers arrived in 1830, Naranjo has been an agricultural hub for a variety of crops including corn, coffee, plantains, sugar cane, tapioca, rice, and tobacco.

Downtown Naranjo is quaint with basic amenities; you'll find several grocery stores, pharmacies, gyms, a central market, public park, and clothing stores in the town's center. Public transportation is reliable, and buses depart for San Jose, Alajuela, San Ramon, Sarchi and other nearby towns every 20-60 minutes. Residents have access to most major amenities, like high-speed Internet and cable television. For specialized services or nightlife, San Jose is just a short car or bus ride away.

Fill your daytime hours with outdoor explorations of Naranjo and its surrounds. The village is located three miles from Sarchi, eight miles from Zarcero, and nine miles from Grecia, affording residents plenty of day trip options. Go shopping for handmade furniture and crafts in Sarchi, meander through Zarcero's famous topiaries, or rappel down Grecia's Los Chorros Waterfalls. Both Penas Blancas Wildlife Refuge and Juan Castro Blanco National Park are nearby, and local hiking trails reach as far as the Pacific town of Jaco.

Despite its beautiful weather, peaceful atmosphere, and enviable location, Naranjo remains affordable for relocation. Costa Rican-style homes in the downtown area are a steal: less than $100,000 will purchase a 3-bedroom, 2-bath property. Small, gated communities on the outskirts of town boast larger lots and incredible views. Properties range from $200,000-$300,000 for custom-built homes made to North American standards. House rentals cost between $250-$1,000 per month depending on size, location and amenities.

Naranjo expats have access to medical care through the Caja's local clinic, and Central Valley hospitals in San Ramon, Alajuela and San Jose. CIMA Hospital, a state-of-the-art private medical center, is just 30 minutes away by car. For those with young children, there are several private schools in the area, including the bilingual Colegio Bilingue San Ramon, Sun Light School (San Ramon), Green Valley School (Atenas), and the Colegio Bilingue San Agustin (Palmares).

A Different Kind of Easter

Fri, 30 Mar 2012 10:30:00 EDT

Easter in Costa Rica is a religious affair and secular traditions are uncommon. For example, most local children have no idea who the Easter bunny is, but they do watch the reenactment of the Crucifixion during their town's annual Holy Week parades.

Roman Catholicism, the state religion of Costa Rica, dictates that Catholics not eat meat on Fridays during Lent or on Ash Wednesday. Accordingly, the faithful look forward to seasonal feasts of ceviche, as well as other seafood or vegetarian dishes like breaded whitefish and scrambled eggs with yucca flower. On Easter Sunday, many families celebrate with a succulent spread of pork leg, salads and traditional desserts like rice pudding and chiverre squash empanadas.

While practicing Catholics are busy celebrating the Resurrection with religious parades and Easter Mass, many Costa Ricans head to the coast to celebrate the holiday. It's notoriously difficult to get a beach hotel reservation during Holy Week, but if you love the country's mountains, volcano country, or river rapids, you'll have an easy time booking an Easter escape. Personally, I love to stay home and enjoy the silence of a significantly less populated Heredia.

As for the Easter bunny… One of the things I love most about raising our son biculturally is the freedom to create our own family traditions. Since we live in Costa Rica, most of our choices involve American rituals (local traditions are a foregone conclusion) – in this case, the Easter bunny, Easter eggs, and a basket, none of which makes an appearance in traditional Costa Rican Easter lore. Every family's decision is different, but I have very fond memories of Easter Sunday as a child and would like to pass them on to our son.

I am fortunate to have wonderful in-laws who embrace my son's American roots and imported traditions. As he grows up, I'm sure we'll all spend time together dyeing eggs, and my in-laws will help me cook up great hiding spots for our colorful creations. I am also lucky enough to have a wonderful network of friends, some of whom are American and will be invited to our house for our Easter egg hunt. And the Easter bunny? Well, he'll definitely pay an annual visit to hide a goody basket, but how this will play out in practical terms is still uncertain. Right now my boy is only six months old, but someday we'll have to explain why the Easter bunny doesn't visit his Tico friends. All in good time.