Costume Fashionista

Costume Couture: Designing an Original, Part I

noreply@blogger.com (Jenni) — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:50:00 +0000

Are you a costume recreationist, a costume designer hobbyist or a little of both? Do you wish you could take that original idea that's been burning in your head and execute it into that fabulous one of a kind costume that would make a huge splash at con?

What is the difference between recreationists and designers? Recreationists see a costume in a film, or TV show or other media and copy it to the last detail. They spend hours researching details, seam lines and looking for shots of the back of the costume. The goal is to produce the costume as screen accurate as possible so it looks like the original walked off the screen. My first several costumes were recreations and took enormous amounts of time to bring to life. The rewards were worth it and I enjoyed being complimented on how close my costumes looked to the screen versions. A great recreation is an amazing piece of art and a huge technical challenge since most of us don't have the same resources as a big budget feature for materials and fabrics. Many of my friends are wonderful recreationists and their work commands attention and respect for the time, effort and skills involved.

Costume designer hobbyists take costuming to a different level. They design original costumes for their own enjoyment and wear. They are inspired by an idea, a concept, or a piece of art. Perhaps a conversation with friends sparked the flame and after letting it grow it begs to be made and worn. There is complete freedom of creativity. There are no rules, just your ideas and how you execute it in the finished costume.

I've been making the transition from costume recreationist to costume designer hobbyist in the last couple years. When I started costuming before my pro days, I chose characters I identified with and were mainly blonde, with the exception of Princess Leia, who I costumed as a blonde since I didn't want to deal with a wig. I was one of the first women to recreate Han Solo and costume the character as a female. Another costumer did the same thing that year. If you're a recreationist you take the chance someone will have the same idea as you. This is especially true when a blockbuster movie comes out. Everyone wants to do costumes from that movie so you end up with 1000 Spartans (not necessarily a bad thing from my perspective!) or 300 Maximillian Smarts. Nothing wrong with that, unless you don't want to be like everyone else.

For me, the search is always on for the costume that will be fun to wear but have impact. This is not an easy process of discovery. Designing an original costume is satisfying, but it starts with nothing. While you don't have to follow the same rules as for recreations, you are putting a piece of yourself into the design.

The same creative process fashion designers use applies to designing an original costume. First look for something that inspires you, gets your creativity flowing, an idea that won't leave you alone. Keep a folder of ideas, concepts, rough pencil sketches and pictures from the Internet or your favorite magazines. Go back to it occasionally and glance through. Once you let your creativity ride, you'll find it easy to come up with a multitude of ideas.

Next, come up with a concept. Jot notes down or make rough pencil sketches. Collect those inspirational photos or magazine pages in one place with your costume. Dig through fabrics you have in stash or go to a fabric store and look around. Let it synthesize in your head for a bit. Once you've done that draw a pencil sketch. I use a croqui underneath marker paper and draw right over the body shape filling in where the clothes don't cover. A croqui is simply an illustrated body form for fashion sketching. They come in a variety of poses. Fashion sketching text books and references have them. You can also Google for croquis and print them from your computer.

Don't be afraid to erase and tweak your pencil sketch. Do one, set it aside and come back to it later. I sometimes draw a costume three or four times before I am satisfied with it. When the sketch is at a satisfactory point, lightly erase over the pencil lines. Color it in using your choice of media. I prefer watercolor pencils and watercolor markers - specifically Prismacolor. Color the base colors and main garment items first. Fill in details over the base color with a darker shade (or white if you're using black), or simply use a fine black drawing pen to outline and add accents like seam lines, buttons, and shoe laces. Metallic drawing markers in silver and gold can be used for metal hardware and detailing. Once the sketch is done, start shopping for your fabrics and materials. Let the design evolve. Chances are you will see a fabric, button, or hardware that will inspire a change. I tend not to sketch those details in on purpose so that I have room to choose and not be locked into a specific item. Also think about the fiber types you are using and how warm or cool you will be wearing the costume. Engineering a costume for comfort is important if you are going to wear it for a full day. Choose your fabrics carefully. Carry swatches with you when you shop so you can match up and coordinate shades, trims and notions. Watch fabric widths - 45" vs 60" - you'll get a lot more out of 60" wide than 45" and some natural silks come in widths as low as 36". Explore online fabric shopping too but always purchase a swatch first! Too many times I've heard stories of fabric arriving and not being a good quality or the wrong color or texture!

Finally, be prepared with all of your foundational garments before you start making a muslin mock-up. It will help you shape your patterns to fit properly over them according to your measurements when you wear them, and how the style lines fall on you. I use a mixture of commercially available patterns (why reinvent the wheel?), custom flat pattern making and draping to create my original designs. Rarely do I custom pattern 100% for a costume unless I want to pursue a particular challenge with it.

Stay tuned for Part II - Constructing Your Original Design

Manic Mondays: A Dragon Con Preparedness Series, Part I

noreply@blogger.com (Jenni) — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 15:35:00 +0000

Dragon Con nights are a Costumer's Red Carpet. We're all going for that wow factor. We all want our photos taken. It is now approaching very quickly, so every Monday from now through August 25 will be dedicated to Dragon Con Preparedness. Look for tips, advice and resources on how to put your best Geek Girl Chic foot forward at con. This week, tips for creating a whole look for that red carpet worthy WOW factor.

Celebrity Secrets

Shhhhh, here's a secret about celebrities and the red carpet. They don't look like that on a daily basis. They have a team of fashion, hair and makeup experts, personal trainers, dermatologists (and sometimes plastic surgeons) all working together to create looks for them. The truth is anyone can look Red Carpet Fabulous. It's about creating an illusion using the tools we all have at our disposal. If celebrities can do it, then costumers can too. (And the same applies for those special occasions and formal events!)

The Foundation - Your Body

Celebrities do work hard to stay fit and slim, but none of them are perfect. They all have flaws like the rest of us. Their stylist works with them to showcase their best features and hide their flaws with the right clothing. Once you know what suits your body (and it's not always the latest trend), you can dress to look fabulous too. This also applies to costuming. There are simply some costumes I will not do because I know I can't carry them off well. There is also the matter of proportion. I will adjust a costume's proportions to suit my petite frame. I don't go with the 'screen accurate' measurements just because that's what someone researched. It's about making the clothes (costumes) work for you so you look and feel your best wearing it. It also doesn't hurt to take care of yourself physically and maintain an ideal weight for your body type. You'll feel better, have more energy and a more positive attitude AND your clothes (and costumes) will fit better and you'll feel confident wearing them. And we all know confidence is very chic!

The Costume

The costume should fit well and be able to withstand the rigors of wear at a convention. Too often people forget to design their costumes so that they will last through a 12 hour wearing. Choose construction methods that won't fail you in the middle of the day. Make sure there are no rough spots touching your skin that can cause blisters or raw spots. If it doesn't suit you, don't wear it. You'll just want to go change 15 minutes after you get to the floor! If you do wear a costume that is difficult to move or sit down in, plan to wear it for a few hours one evening for photo ops then go change. Usually the most uncomfortable costumes have a big impact anyway, so you want the most people to see it!

The Accessories

Accessories complete the look and make it look authentic. A lot of amateur costumers forget about wearing the appropriate shoes or boots. Don't. Trust me, costumers at DC, especially veterans *will* look at your feet. Purchase some gel insoles as well. There's a lot of walking around and your feet will pay the price. Another good idea is to rest your tootsies and use a soothing moisturizing cream at night. Get a pedicure too! I usually get a neutral that goes with all my costumes. Choose jewelry that the character you're costuming wears or add pieces to that original design. Go bling! Over the top is always cool at Dragon Con! Don't forget a small matching wristlet or purse to carry an ID, lip gloss, cash and credit card. Add some safety pins for those quick fixes.

Makeup and Hair

Test your makeup and hair before even going to con. The lighting is harsh so upgrade foundations to withstand the fluorescent lighting, digital cameras and flashes. Add hair pieces or wigs to make the costume more authentic. I have a shoulder length bob and add falls and ponytails to make my hair more lush and long. I also get my hair highlighted/colored to match my pieces. Consider false eyelashes for those glam costumes. Your eyes will stand out in photos!

Tanning

Consider a sunless tan if you are wearing revealing costumes and clothes at con. You'll look slimmer, healthier and it will diminish some of the effects of the harsh lighting. I prefer the spray-on tans rather than the DIY in the bottle. The smell isn't so nice the first 24 hours but then I have a fabulous looking golden glow that lasts about 5-7 days. Remember to adjust your foundation shade to suit your new glow!

Survival at Con

Get your rest. I make sure I sleep at least 6-7 hours each night. I'm usually an 8-9 hour girl though so that's cutting back for me. Drink plenty of water. Eat. Sounds simple right? Easy to forget when you're marathoning between panels, guests and costumes. Carry a protein bar with you or visit the con suite in the Hyatt. They've got free food 24 hours a day! Take a time out from the busy-ness if you need to. I tend to get a 30-45 minute nap in the late afternoon and it refreshes me for the night-time activities.

I hope these tips help and inspire you to look your Geek Girl best at DC 2008! Can't wait to see you all there on the DC Red Carpet!

Trip the Style Fantastic: 9 Steps to Personal Style

noreply@blogger.com (Jenni) — Tue, 01 Jul 2008 19:23:00 +0000

What is your personal style? Do you even have one? I do but I don't exactly know how to describe it except for 'eclectic'. Developing a style is a fun way to show off your personality to the world. But there is a difference between being trendy and being stylish. Trends come and go. Style lasts and is your personal fashion signature. It's individual and personal and is a statement about you. Clothes have more of an impact than you may realize! Of course if you're a costumer you already know that. We know certain things about characters in movies simply by what they are wearing when they appear on screen! The same applies to every day people and what they are wearing.

There was a time (in the long ago past) when I was a consummate preppy. Yes, me. My staples in college were nice slacks, penny loafers, and turtlenecks with sweaters. I also owned a couple of jumpers and plenty of tartan skirts, kilted and wrap. My favorite stores were LL Bean, J Crew and Land's End. After college graduation I realized my taste was changing and since then I've been on a quest to develop my own personal style. It is always evolving and adapting along with current fashion and style lines, but it comes down to knowing my body and what suits me. There will always be those garments that look like a trash bag on me.

My personal style took a huge leap forward when I attended art school. I was inundated with images and media showing the latest couture. I subscribed to Women's Wear Daily and Vogue. I attended classes taught by professors who only wore Diesel (at least he was consistent!). I started looking for inspiration for my designs every where. It all had an impact. I got edgier - more fashion conscious. My hobby costuming also lended to the mix. I started using costume pieces and shoes in my every day wardrobe. I didn't just save them for use with my costumes. I created looks and mixed up elements from various periods in my life and broke out my boundaries and tried new things. Not all of us have the opportunity to be immersed in the fashion world.

So, how do you go about developing a personal style? The nine steps below will set you on your way to your own fantastic style.

1. Know what style lines suit you.

There is no way, no-how that I can wear un-tailored, deconstructed clothing. Every time I try a garment on like that I hate it. I'm petite and curvy with narrow shoulders. Tailored clothing with some structure, low-rise pants with slightly flare leg, and deep scoop, v-neck or collared tops look best on me. How did I discover all this? I shopped a lot and tried a lot of things on. If something doesn't match the 'rules' for my body type, then I don't try it on. Now that's not say that once in a while I don't still see something I like on the hanger that doesn't fit the rules. I thought all halters looked horrendous on me until recently when I tried on a cocktail dress with a halter neckline. It's where the lines of the halter hit me on my shoulders and neck that makes all the difference in the world. I can wear a halter, just not all of them out there! Figure out your body's rules by going to a variety of stores and trying on everything you like on the hanger.

2. Stick to the rules

Make up rules for yourself. If you try something on and don't love it, don't buy it no matter how good a deal it is. It's not a deal if you don't love it because it will hang in your closet and never get worn. What Not To Wear is the best training for this!! Watch it and learn.

3. Develop your color story.

There will be certain colors that don't look good on you. There will be other colors that people compliment you for wearing. Make a note and purchase clothing in those colors. Expand your color story. Maybe there are some colors you haven't tried. I've got a closet full of jewel toned clothing especially various shades of pink, red and purple. Why? Because they look great on me and I get a lot of compliments when I wear them. I also have a lot of black and blue (who doesn't?) and chocolate brown and have recently been expanding into certain shades of green, yellow and coral especially for summer. If you're not sure of the color with the lights in the store, you can always return the garment once you see it in natural light at home. White washes me out but I still wear it - I just rev up my makeup or make sure the neckline is not close to my face. Cream and ivory are better neutrals for my coloring. Get a copy of Color Me Beautiful and find out what season color you are. I'm a Summer but have brown eyes so I can go outside my color range a bit.

4. Get inspired - watch Style or read Lucky Magazine

Style TV has great shows on current trends and celebrity style. These are meant to inspire you and give you ideas. Don't go out and copy exact looks from celebrities or those shows! I am a huge fan of Lucky because they feature fashion and style for ALL budgets and price ranges. They highlight designers and stores I would have never heard of and include web links, price points and even toll-free telephone numbers for more information. Stickers are included to mark your favorite pages for easy reference later.

5. Shop a Lot! And everywhere.

I love Old Navy for cute tees and great casual pants. The manufacturing is superb for the price point and I don't worry about ruining the clothes. I mostly shop for work clothes here since I work on film location a lot. I have to be comfortable, casual and ready for a very physical work day. Mainstream chains I like include Macy's for basics, Neiman's for evening wear and Anthropologie for their nice cotton tees that are not the norm. Their pants also fit me well but I haven't had much luck with their dresses. They also have fabulous jewelry. I love boutique shopping for my dressier clothing. Price points are a bit higher but if you shop often and get on their mailing list you may get lucky with a fabulous annual sale. Thrift stores and consignment shops can be good for those vintage or one of a kind retro pieces. I usually find accessories in those kinds of stores, but at least one of my girlfriends is always able to put together really cute looks from thrift stores on the cheap.

6. Find a good tailor

Let me tell you a secret about What Not To Wear. All of those clothes the person buys on the show's tab are also custom altered and tailored for them that week during the taping. None of those clothes come straight off the rack looking that awesome for the big reveal at the end! Find a tailor. Use them to hem pants, take in tops and jackets and adjust the clothes to your body. They will fit better and you'll want to wear them more because you'll feel great in them!

7. Wear the appropriate underpinnings

Please, please wear the correct bra and undies with your outfits. Beige bras always look better under light colored tops (unless you're Sara Jessica Parker). You don't need to wear a thong to NOT have panty lines now - there are plenty of fine microfiber seamless fabrics being used. Kohl's has a great selection at reasonable prices and is always having sales. If you're wearing a formal dress for a wedding (especially if you're in the wedding) invest in a long line bra. It creates a smooth silhouette and you'll look great in the photos. I'm still not a fan of letting the edges of the bra show - that is a trend I hope goes away! Also, those pesky bra straps. Either get the clear plastic kind for your tank tops or invest in a strapless bra that is comfortable and wont' slide down. Nothing is more distracting than watching a girl hitch up her bra underneath her clothing all day long.

8. Accentuate with shoes and accessories

This is one of the easiest, least expensive and fun ways to bolster your personal style. Stores like Icing, Claire's and H&M have great selections of accessories for really great prices. I love rings and bangle bracelets. I've been buying BIG - the bigger the better - and pairing with stud earrings. I also love bling and it's not unusual to see me wearing rhinestones in the middle of the day. DSW has a super selection of shoes - I hardly ever get out of there without at least one pair! Check their sale rack in the back. Save your designer shoe buying for your dressier outfits and formal occasions. That's when I check out Betsey Johnson and the shoe departments at Neiman's and Nordstroms.

9. Never stop.

Your taste will continue to change over time. Adapt to it. Get rid of the items you haven't worn in a year by donating to Purple Heart or a thrift store, or if in good enough shape consign them. Continue all the steps above! Watch, read, shop, learn and soon you'll be tripping the style fantastic!

40 is the New 20?

noreply@blogger.com (Jenni) — Sat, 28 Jun 2008 15:13:00 +0000

Gen X'ers are redefining age and what it means to get older. This is especially true with Geek Girls. We push the boundaries of aging in our very choice of lifestyle - enjoying our geeky pursuits and not being afraid to show it! From costuming to gaming to comics to conventions, we are the new epitome of what it means to 'be young, feel young'. Embracing our 'inner geek' is the first step. I'm a firm believer in knowing your own self well, accepting who you are and living the life you imagine. Attitude has a lot to do with slowing down aging. The second step is in the choices we make about our own health - eating right, exercising, getting sleep, addressing health issues before they get out of hand. This is more important than we all realize, and helps to support a healthy mental attitude. The third step is dealing with emotions and reducing the stress. Everyone talks about this but no one really knows what it means. For me, it means choosing to respond in a constructive way to life's problems vs. reacting negatively to every thing that goes wrong. The truth is life is hard, it's unfair and it's a journey. How you travel the road of your own journey is entirely up to you. *I* choose NOT get bent out of shape over the things I have no control over, other people's actions and attitudes, and things that just plain go wrong - not that I don't stand up for myself when it's warranted! None of us can avoid all the stress but how we deal with it is up to us.

So what does this have to do with Geek Girl Chic? A lot actually. Being chic is more than just the clothes you wear, your makeup and how you style your hair! It's an attitude. How you present yourself is more than half the battle. Being healthy physically, mentally and emotionally is the foundation for confidence -- and confidence *is* sexy and chic. You can always tell who's confident in a crowd. They exude it like a strong scent. People are drawn to them and want to be around them. It creates a positive force around the individual who has it! It's something I've observed in action and aspire to every day and it's also a choice. Believe me, I've got my share of insecurities like the rest of the world but I've learned I can choose to be confident, even on the rough days. How? I put on a smile and walk in like I own the place. Pretty soon my bad attitude, moodiness and insecurity is gone and I'm having a great time. It's also a lot less effort to smile than frown, and less energy is expended in being content and happy than being miserable. Contentedness and general happiness contribute a lot to feeling younger and add to that confidence level too!

Is 40 really the new 20? Probably not. Maybe it's more like the new 30. All I know is I choose to be young by embracing my inner geek. I choose things that I am happy doing, and I take my own advice about reducing stress and taking care of myself. And that's Geek Girl Chic!

Boning Up!

noreply@blogger.com (Jenni) — Thu, 26 Jun 2008 15:25:00 +0000

Cor·set –noun

1. Sometimes, corsets. a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material and often capable of being tightened by lacing, enclosing the trunk: worn, esp. by women, to shape and support the body; stays.

No exams here! Just really cool corsets - they're not just for re-enactors and big designers any more! Corsets have gone mainstream and are a great look paired with that great little skirt, or those fabulous Lucky 7 jeans. Designers started throwing them into their collections for the runway about 15 years ago, but it took a bit to catch on. Now you can hardly watch any red carpet event or runway show without seeing at least a couple, and if you costume for a hobby chances are you've worn one. They can be the ultimate fashion statement, or make that costume zing with flair!

Making a Corset

Beginner sewers and corset-makers should start with a ready-made pattern. Drafting a corset pattern is tricky business. Making one from a pattern will give you the foundation of skills you need to advance to drafting your own.

As with all things, quality varies between pattern companies. I've made the Simplicity Civil War corset pattern, but have found (and so have my fellow sewers) that the top gapes and requires some modifying to fit well. Fear not, however, there are other pattern companies that carry a variety of well-drafted corset patterns!

Laughing Moon Mercantile gets high props for two well-fitting, period corset patterns. The Dore is a straight-seamed corset. The Silverado fits longer over the hips. Both allow for adding bust gores for a custom cup fit. I've heard nothing but rave reviews from everyone who has used these patterns, even to make their first corset.

Costume Beginner has reviews of the Big 3 pattern companies' corset patterns, plus a listing of other online retailers carrying a variety of period corset patterns. I've used Past Patterns for a Victorian corset and had a very nice experience.

If you are a little more advanced and are comfortable drafting patterns then the corset generator at ElizabethanCostume.net is for you. They've got a lovely set of well-written instructions that are pretty easy to follow, even for the novice. The PA Ren Faire uses the generator to create period corsets for their noble ladies.

Once you have decided on a pattern, go to Corset Making to get all of your supplies. (Forget that plastic boning at Joann's!). They offer everything you need for to make a corset, plus their shipping is lightning fast.

Also don't forget, the Great Pattern Review for sewer reviews of all kinds of patterns besides corsets.

Buying a Corset

Not everyone has the sewing skills to construct a corset, so onward to the retailers!

My dream corset is a Voller's. Ever since I saw a friend of mine getting laced into one as an underpinning for one of her costumes. They are just exquisitely made and come in a variety of styles and fabric choices so numerous it makes your head spin. Fortunately they now have a USA branch so you don't need to pay for shipping from the UK. The prices are dear but oh so worth it for these wonderfully made corsets.

I stumbled upon Scarlett's Corsets at a music festival I was attending in Dallas last year. They had the perfect leather corset for a costume I was making. Peruse their website for what you want, but then go to eBay and search for them there. The prices are infinitely less expensive and you get the same product!

A friend recently recommended Meschantes Custom Corsets. I am considering purchasing their Sweetheart style corset in plain white or ivory to use as an underpinning with costumes. They feature both over bust and under bust styles in a variety of fabrics and materials. And the prices are reasonable too! They also offer the same products on eBay under the store name Meschantes.

Corsets: History and Fashion

Undeniably, corsets have had a long history coming into and out of fashion. Want to know more? I recommend the following books for your corset reading pleasure. Bone up!

The Corset: A Cultural History

Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-lacing and Other Forms of Body Sculpture

Corsets and Crinolines

The Well-dressed Geek Girl

noreply@blogger.com (Jenni) — Wed, 25 Jun 2008 18:28:00 +0000

Geeks generally have a bad rep for style consciousness. Cons are a perfect venue to view the stereotype.

But there is a movement - a fashion movement among Geek Girls to embrace their geekiness in all it's forms but still look fashionable and hip. From costumes to con-wear, makeup, hair, fitness and general style, this is the place to find resources and advice on being a Chic Geek Girl.

For those of us that costume, we all need cute con-wear for those non-costume days or when we simply need a break. First up, cute tees.

Think Geek has an amazing assortment of baby doll style tees for geek girls like us.

I especially love their "OMG Pwnies" tee.

Check out Jinx Clothing for more awesome geek tees for ladies. My personal fave?

For the WOW geek girls there's WarCrackWear.com! They're a little more risque but fun for cons if you're that brave.

Finally, for all kinds of wicked cool stuff, check out WickedCoolGirls. They've got more than cute tees including totes, calendars, and hoodies.

If online shopping is not your thing, check out your local Hot Topic or Kohl's. I've gotten fun, baby doll style tees in the Junior's department for $5 each.