Cottage on the Edge

By Popular Demand -- the New DIY Cottage Forum

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:30:00 PST

Have a Cottage Reno problem?

Not sure how to do your DIY Project?

Need to select a contractor, or materials?

Need ideas?

Planning to build a cottage?

If you have a question about your cottage DIY project, look for the answer in the new DIY Forum. (...to go there just click on the DIY Forum menu item above.)

If that topic is not yet covered in the forum then ask the question. One of the followers of the Cottage on the Edge may respond with a solution.

Please share the wealth! Take a look at the forum from time to time and share your solutions to those DIY issues.

Register for the Forum
While anyone can view and read the forum, only registered users can post - so be sure to register today! (Yes! There is a separate registration required for the newsletter and the forum.)

What do you think?:
We are really interested in your feedback to the new Forum - Please send us a comment.

;-)

Get the Cottage on the Edge by eMail

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 04:00:00 PST

We have just launched our first-ever Newsletter capability and with it we will have some changes to how you can chose to receive the blog posts. Plus we will be launching our newsletter later in the month to coincide with some other exciting features we will be adding.

You will still be able to receive the blog by RSS feed, and also be able to get alerts for the blog posts via my Twitter and Facebook pages, but we are changing the way the blog by eMail is generated. There are two important changes:

New eMail Subscription Form:
The previous eMail subscription button has now been replaced with the subscription form found at the top of the sidebar. If you haven't already subscribed using this new form, or you used the older eMail button, I urge you to sign up now using the new form or you will be missing out on some great new benefits.

New Blog Post Format:
With the new subscription form you will receive and greatly improved blog post by eMail. Sure you will still get those excellent posts just as you have been but in addition there will be an alert area where you will get VIP notification of new blog features and freebies.

A Monthly Newsletter:
This new subscription form will be the only way that you will be able to subscribe and receive the new Cottage on the Edge Newsletter. The newsletter will be published on a relatively monthly basis, with the odd extra newsletter thrown in for good measure.

Coming Up:
Still more exciting things happening at the Cottage on the Edge. In the next post we will reveal the DIY Cottage Forum.

Related Posts:
March 3, 2010 - The on-the-EDGE Store is Open

;-)

The on-the-EDGE Store is Open

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 04:00:00 PST

Hurray!

It is with great excitement and pleasure that that we announce the opening of the on-the-EDGE Store!

At the store you can order Cottage on the Edge clothing among other items such as coffee and beer mugs, BBQ aprons, and drink coolers. The clothing is offered in a complete range of sizes and colours, plus there are specific styles for men, women and children.

Be sure to sign up for the newsletter (in the sidebar) to get alerts on any new items we add in the future and, most importantly, any discount promotions we are offering.

You can get to the Store by using the menu item about or from this post by clicking here or on the T-shirt.

Definitely interested in any comments and suggestions you have on our Store, please send us a note in the comments area below.

Coming Up:
We will be communicating to you to several upgrades we are doing to the website and blog, including the DIY Cottage Forum, and our new monthly newsletter.

;-)

A Secret for a No Leak Shower Installation

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 17:08:00 PST

It seems like a century ago that I installed our first (main floor) bathroom shower stall - but it has been only 10 months ago!

I happened on this picture the other day and it brought back memories of my experiences during the installation. I made several mistakes which I describe in the related articles below, however, I still recall what I thought was an unusual installation instruction at the time -- and that was how the base of the shower is installed.

Ensures a Leak Free Installation:
In order to install the shower base, the dry wall must be removed so that the base can be secured directly to the wall studs. In doing so the dry wall actually protrudes out over the base of the top flange of the base. This is a key engineering element because when you install the vinyl on the wall and caulk the wall along the base there is just no way the water can get behind the shower.

Voila! A leak free seam!

Related Posts:
Installing a Shower: Part 1
Five More Tips for Installing a Shower
Start Planning for the Shower Before you build the Bathroom
plumbing tip: check twice, three times before soldering...
;-)

No Curtains at the Cottage

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Fri, 26 Feb 2010 16:47:00 PST

We made some decisions on how we were going to cover or in our case NOT cover windows...

Let the view in!
The views from the windows of the cottage are quite beautiful - part of the allure of the cottage. Hence, we made a conscious decision not to put up window coverings and consequently hide the view.

No Modesty Required...
And besides... there is forest surrounding the cottage, thus no way neighbours can peer in.

There are two exceptions to the open window policy:

South Facing Windows:
We have only one window that gets direct sun in the summer, and that is the window in the master bedroom. To beat the heat of the sun in the summer we close the curtains -- but leave them open in the winter to soak up the warm sun rays.

Bathrooms:
One of the bathroom windows is two stories up so a peeping tom would have to be on a ladder - no curtains required.

However the basement bathroom faces on to the bottom gazebo so we bowed to a bit of modesty for guests.

;-)

Build a Simple Laundry Closet for the Cottage

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:20:00 PST

It is our plan to eventually install a washer and dryer up at the cottage.

That probably won't happen for at least a year, however, I deem it necessary to provide a bit more self-contained living at the cottage. We have already left several changes of clothing, and of course sufficient changes of linen for all the beds. But for now we cart the laundry back and forth to town. I bit of a pain for now, but necessary.

The laundry facilities will come necessary when the family each start taken turns up at the cottage. The rule will be that each is responsible for making sure the linen gets a cleaning before they leave.

Modular, Accessible & Compact:
In order to consume as little space for the laundry facilities we built a laundry 'Closet'. It is essentially just enough room for the washer, dryer, maybe a laundry tub and some storage area. To make the space very accessible, and modular, we closed it in with three sections of folding door.

In our approach we used three 32-inch folding door sections (96 inches wide by 82 inches tall). A tricky decision, without having the washer and dryer in place, was imagining how to access the appliances -- and hence in what configuration to mount the three door (that is hope they should open).

As you can see we choose to have the double open sections to the right side.

Turned out quite nicely if I may say so myself -- With the doors closed the laundry gear will be nicely hidden away!
;-)

An Easy Way to Keep the Critters Out!

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 16:06:00 PST

One of the beauties of cottage country is being closer to nature. Being closer to nature means being closer to the little critters that like cozy warm and dry homes we build for them. It requires constant vigilance to keep them on the outside.

One easy way is to make sure the obvious openings that we create like the range hood exhaust (shown in the picture) have bars on the windows so-to-speak.

Be sure to purchase all such vents with maximum quarter-inch grates. That will be sufficient to keep the small critters like birds, bats, mice and squirrels from having an easy access.

Also this one has a metal flap in it that open when the fan is on and closes shut when it is off.

;-)

Burning Firewood: Not all Wood is Created Equal

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 14:32:00 PST

Even when properly seasoned, some wood species don't make very good firewood or should I say fuel. The two charts below provide a listing of common species of wood and their fuel value.

Generally speaking, you'll get best results burning the highest density (heaviest) hardwood with the highest BTU (available heat) content that can be found in your area. Here are two charts, the first one organizing various species by BTU content ( 1 MBTU = one million btu), and the second organizing the same species alphabetically for easy lookup.

What the chart is saying is that some wood species given up more energy, thus heat, when they burn. NOTE: Double click on the above chart to get a larger more readable image.

Related Posts:

;-)

Tips to Dry Your Firewood Correctly

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 16:34:00 PST

Firewood terminology is a bit confusing. Green wood is always too wet to use as fuel, but "seasoned" wood may or may not be dry enough to use as fuel. For proper burning and heat production, you want your wood to be both seasoned and dry.

Freshly cut wood is referred to as green, and is very wet, containing up to 80% moisture by weight. To dry out the wood to 20-25% moisture content so it can be used as fuel, you season it by cutting it up into short lengths and stacking it out of the rain in such a way that air can circulate freely to carry away the water as it evaporates out both ends of each piece.

Remember Granddad's wood shed? The open slat walls allowed air to circulate, and the overhanging roof kept the rain off the wood. The seasoning process generally takes around 12 months, depending upon the species of wood and the airflow, humidity and temperature of the woodshed. Once the wood has evaporated down to 20-25% moisture content level, it is seasoned, and ready to burn.

Seasoned wood doesn't always stay that way: wood is cellular, and will reabsorb water like a sponge. If you get dry, seasoned fuel wood and stack it out in the rain, it can soak up enough water to revert to its original water content in just a matter of hours. When this happens, your seasoned wood needs to be re-seasoned until it is once again dry enough to use for fuel, which can take several weeks.

You can read about the importance of avoiding burning green or wet firewood in an airtight woodstove I a previous post.

Store the Firewood Correctly!

Just throwing a tarp over the wood just isn't going to make dry wood for you. Make a bologna sandwich on some nice fresh bread. Cut it in half, wrap one half tightly in plastic wrap, and put both halves in your refrigerator for a few weeks. Compare the dry, crusty half with the bag of soggy goo, and you will be looking at a good demonstration of why your woodpile won't season properly if you cover it with plastic tarps.

This is also the reason woodsheds traditionally have open slat sidewalls: as moisture evaporates from the wood, air circulation is necessary to carry it away. Your tarps create a mini-ecosystem where the evaporated moisture condenses on the underside and rains back down on the woodpile, where it is reabsorbed.

If a tarp is your only option to keep rain off your firewood, drive tall stakes a foot or two from the four corners of your woodpile and drape the tarp over the stakes so air can flow through the woodpile beneath it. Take a few pieces of wood and stack them on top of the pile at the center under the tarp so rainwater won't puddle, and fasten the tarp to the stakes so the wind won't blow it off.

Related Posts:

;-)

The Secret to Efficient Woodstoves: Do not Burn Wet Wood!

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 16:14:00 PST

Image by Shandchem via Flickr

My experience, and that of several pros that I have spoken with, all suggest that wet firewood provides MUCH LESS heat, and causes MUCH MORE creosote to form in the chimney, regardless of the draft control setting. An it leads to downright dangerous situations in your chimney.

Here's why:

Airtight woodstoves extract heat from wood in two ways. The primary source of heat from a woodstove is the combustion of the firewood itself: the secondary source is the combustion of the gasified resins and unburned wood particles that result from the primary fire. Unless yours is a very primitive model, you'll find a baffle plate of some kind near the top of your stove, between the fire chamber and the flue outlet. This is where the secondary burn occurs, and where your stove creates up to half the heat it delivers to you.

The amount of secondary combustion that occurs varies widely from model to model, largely due to advances in heat extraction technology over the years; a twelve-year-old baffled airtight can be presumed to operate at about 45% efficiency, while many of today's EPA approved woodstoves exceed 70% efficiency. The big difference between the older woodstoves and today's woodstoves can be found in the baffle area, where newer, more sophisticated techniques have been incorporated to re-burn the exhaust gases.

When you add an unseasoned or wet piece of firewood to your fire, the water contained in the firewood heats up and turns to steam, which mixes with the exhaust gases and extinguishes the secondary burn. Regardless of how sophisticated your baffle system is, this cuts your heat output by up to 50%, and results in cool, water-laden exhaust filled with unburned particles and exhaust gases. This wet, heavy, high-density smoke travels very slowly up the chimney, where it cools even further, condensing onto the walls of the flue and causing excessive creosote formation.

So, when you burn unseasoned or wet firewood, you dramatically DECREASE your heat output, while dramatically INCREASING the likelihood of chimney fires.

Another drawback to burning wet or unseasoned wood is creosote formation on the viewing window. No matter how good the air-wash design that keeps the window clean, it won't work when the firebox is full of wet smoke. A blackened viewing window is one of the most reliable indicators that the firewood is improperly seasoned.

The Draft Control
The draft control is there to enable you to control the combustion of your dry firewood, UP TO A POINT. You can turning the draft control down to control heat output and burn time, but be careful not to smolder the fire. If your stove has a viewing window, you can easily see if you're starving the fire for air; the flames go out. If you don't have a viewing window, attach a flue gas thermometer to the stovepipe, 18" to 24" away from the stove, and keep the flue gas temperature above 325 degrees better still as discussed in a previous post between 400 and 900 degrees (F).

Oxygen is required to ignite the gases in the secondary burn area, so if you take away too much air by adjusting your draft control too low, you'll lose the benefits of the secondary burn even if your wood is dry. This will show itself on the flue gas thermometer, which will quickly fall into the creosote zone.

Today's EPA approved woodstoves provide pre-heated oxygen to the secondary burn chamber directly, through a separate intake controlled by the chimney updraft, enabling you to turn your draft control all the way down to control the primary fire without extinguishing the secondary burn. This technology results in fewer particulate emissions, longer burn times and cleaner chimneys, but it is important to note that steam is still not combustible. Even these state-of-the-art stoves won't burn the gases in the secondary burn chamber if the wood is wet.

Coming Up:
In the next post we will discuss some of the tips to get and keep your fire wood dry.

Related Posts:

;-)

How to Install a Flue Gas Stove Pipe Thermometer

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 15:48:00 PST

The installation of the flue gas thermometer in the stove pipe above my woodstove was quite simple. Here is how I did it:

Tools you will need:

Electric drill with a 1/4 inch drill bit
Measuring tape
Pencil
Work gloves (if the stove pipe is hot)

Here are the steps:

Measure and mark a spot on the stove pipe at least 18 inches above the top of the stove. Along as the location is at least 18 inches from the stove top the rest is really aesthetic. I like having the thermometer immediately visible from the front of the stove.
Drill a 1/4-inch hole at the spot you marked. I have a double-walled stove pipe a sharp metal drill bit was necessary, as the interior wall is stainless steel.
Insert the Probe thermometer in the hole. My thermometer came with an eyelet and a magnet which were threaded on to the probe before putting it in the hole.
Enjoy!

I was initially concerned about having a tight seal where the probe goes in the hole but the pro at the fireplace store where I purchased the thermometer sai there is not worry -- the draft up the chimney will take care of it!. And the the magnet holds the thermometer nicely in place.

Coming Up:
In up coming posts I will discuss some the of the issues regarding what to burn, and what not to burn in your wood stove.

Related Posts:

;-)

Selecting the Right Woodstove Thermometer

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Thu, 04 Feb 2010 14:40:00 PST

Your choice of woodstove thermometer is dependent on a number of factors:

the type of stove,
type of stove pipe and
personal preference/comfort.

Catalytic Thermometer:
If you have a new flanged stove with a fancy catalytic combustor in it you will need one of these. While I have a newer EPA woodstove it isn't one of these so my choices were among the next three. Don't know much more about them as I didn't need to know beyond that I can't use it in my stove.

Stove Top Thermometer:
This type of thermometer lies on the top of the woodstove. Often it also has a magnet in it as well. It works by estimating the temperature of the stove by the temperature of the stove top.

Magnetic Stove Pipe Thermometer:
This type of thermometer is attached magnetically to the stove pipe, generally at least 18 inches above the stove. It can only be used with single walled stove-pipes.

Flue Gas Probe Thermometer:
A probe thermometer (see the picture above) looks something like an oven meat thermometer, and is inserted in a hole at least 18 inches above the woodstove. It is the only type that can be used with a double-walled stove pipe.

What did I choose?
I installed the flue gas probe thermometer.

I have a double-walled stove pipe so the magnetic stove pipe thermometer drops of the list. As for the stove top thermometer - the whole idea of estimating the temperature based on siting on the stove or attached magnetically to the stove or pipe just doesn't sit right with me. Having a probe right in the flue gas just seemed so much more comforting or should I say exacting. And the price differential was not that great - for an extra $5 or $10 dollars I was able to get the Flue Gas Probe thermometer. I believe I paid in the order of $25 for the probe thermometer.

Coming Up:
In the next post I'll describe the installation of the flue gas probe thermometer

Related Posts:
Safe Wood Stove Practice: Knowing the Temperature
7 Reasons to Install a Woodstove Chimney Thermometer
;-)

7 Reasons to Install a Woodstove Chimney Thermometer

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 13:40:00 PST

Image via Wikipedia

The main reason to install a thermometer for your wood stove is SAFETY - not to burn down your cottage! But there are other reasons - here are seven:

Safety: A quick look and you know instantly, the thermometer tells you if your fire is burning too hot, with the danger of a chimney fire. Or too cool, with incomplete combustion, which causes smoldering woodsmoke to condense as hazardous creosote.

Extends Life of Your Stove:
Excessive smoke or excessive heat will degrade catalytic combustors in the new EPA stoves. Without a thermometer, you're merely guessing at conditions in your firebox. A small investment in a stovepipe thermometer can pay handsome dividends, by guarding against premature replacement of your wood stove.

Less Frequent Chimney Cleaning:
Creosote, the bane of stovepipes, builds up surprisingly rapidly, especially in airtight stoves, when fires burn at consistently low temperatures. Stovepipes from non-catalytic combustor stoves should always be equipped with thermometers to enable the owner to avoid operating conditions where creosote builds up and causes frequent cleaning of the flue.

Longer-Lasting Fires:
When woodstoves burn too hot, flue gases rush up the chimney and valuable heating energy is lost forever. An inefficient fire leads to unnecessary reloading of fuel.

Saves Money:
The cost of woodstoves, chimney cleaning and wood... A thermometer for your woodstove saves you needless expenses and effort by teaching you how to operate your stove at best efficiency and lowest total cost.

Conserves Wood Resources:
If for no other reason, you should monitor your stove's combustion in order to avoid unnecessary waste of fuel -- truly $ flying up the chimney!

Environmental Air Quality:
The woodstove that burns efficiently generates less air pollution. Older woodstoves especially require thermometers to control smoke emissions. Owners of new stoves benefit, too, by using a thermometer to help optimize stove performance.

Coming Up:
In the next few posts we will describe:
1) What type of thermometer to pick for your stove
2) How to install a thermometer.

Related Posts:
Safe Wood Stove Practice: Knowing the Temperature

;-)

Safe Wood Stove Practice: Knowing the Temperature

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sun, 31 Jan 2010 13:23:00 PST

The temperature of the flue gases flowing up the chimney from your wood stove is a good measure of how safe your wood-burning practices are. Installing a flue gas thermometer is inexpensive and an easy task to accomplish resulting in exactly knowing what's happening in your stove - at least temperature-wise.

So What is the Right Wood Stove Temperature?
Under 400 degrees F: is the temperature zone that creates nasty deposits in your chimney, the worst of which is creosote. It is these deposits that catch on fire and can spoil a nice relaxing day at the cottage. With the flue gas thermometer you can easily know when it is time to open up the air damper or add more fuel to the fire - both of which will get that flue gases humming at the right temperature again.

Over 900 degrees F: a hot fire can prematurely corrode and degrade the metal flue pipe and the wood stove. When over 900 degrees it is time to stop stoking the fire and turn down the damper.

Between 400 and 900 Degrees F: This is the cozy temperature for a wood stove. At this temperature the wood is burning and converting almost completely and creating very little nasties to gum up your chimney.

Coming Up:
In the next few posts we will describe:
1) What type of thermometer to pick for your stove
2) How to install a thermometer.

;-)

Silicon versus Latex Caulking

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 16:41:00 PST

...or this could be titled:

Shower Installation: Lesson Number 2...

Yes! there is a difference between silicon and latex caulking. Read your shower installation guide carefully. Silicon DOES NOT stick to some materials well. It fact it is rather poor at adhering to Polystyrene - this material from which many shower walls are made.

I discovered this in shower number one... Used the silicon stuff, in spite of reading the instructions to the contrary - and it did NOT stick forever! Six months later it came unstuck.

So in shower stall number two, latex caulking was used.

In fact I rather enjoy using the latex caulk much better for the following reasons:

It is paint-able
It cleans up with water
Does not smell as bad
Is not a pain to remove - and you will eventually have to remove it.

What has been your experiences with silicon or latex caulking? Which do you prefer?

;-)

Nailing into Drywall: A Hard Lesson!

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 16:24:00 PST

With the final bit of clear caulking the second shower - the one in the basement bathroom is finally complete.

The shower itself was a snap to install. The mistake that I made was not remembering where the cold water supply to the toilet was.

Yep! You got it! When I was securing the shower base to the studs I drove a screw right into the cold water pipe. Took me a while but I finally figured out where all the water was coming from. You see - as is always the case - the leaking water doesn't show up anywhere near the place where the actual leak is. Oh No! It appears somewhere like in the next room -- making you think you have a leak in the foundation wall until you remember that it is -20 Celsius outside and there is just no way that there is any water flowing in from outside - or at least I didn't see any ice cubes...

Well to make a long story short, after ripping out the drywall above the water supply to the toilet I discovered my mistake. After cutting out the perforated pipe and replacing it, then re-plastering and priming and then painting the wall... yes two weeks later (remember I have been only working on weekends) I was able to install the shower.

Went like a charm... except for the leak.

The Lesson Learned:
Always use the wire/pipe guards to shield your wires and pipe that go through studs...

;-)

Happy Birthday to You...

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Tue, 12 Jan 2010 05:00:00 PST

Opps!

Forgot to show you the really nice birthday cake I got for Lucie at Loblaws. Just the right size - it was tasty too!

Related Post:
What Cottages are About!

;-)

What Cottages are About!

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 16:18:00 PST

Happy Birthday Lucie!

Celebrating life!

Enjoying friends and loved ones!

Quiet times to reflect and recharge!

That is what cottages are all about...

;-)

Thank You to all the Many Hands!

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sun, 10 Jan 2010 02:04:00 PST

I have gone Animoto crazy... Here is another video created using Animoto...

This one is very special! While it has a very short summary of the "build" it captures all the very special people that helped in the building of the "Cottage on the Edge"!

Enjoy!

;-)

Cottage Tour... a Year Ago... Part 8 of 8

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 12:17:00 PST

A year ago, just before the plastering of the drywall started, I did an impromptu video walk-through of the cottage. While reviewing the picture album up on Picasa I revisited these video, and wondered why I did not share them back then. So I intend to fix that oversight by uploading them now.

The video comes in eight parts - this is part 8. In this last video we take a last twirl on th emain floor and walk out the front door.

;-)

Cottage Tour... a Year Ago... Part 7 of 8

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:17:00 PST

A year ago, just before the plastering of the drywall started, I did an impromptu video walk-through of the cottage. While reviewing the picture album up on Picasa I revisited these video, and wondered why I did not share them back then. So I intend to fix that oversight by uploading them now.

The video comes in eight parts - this is part 7. In this video we start we retrun up the stairwell to the main floor.

;-)

Cottage Tour... a Year Ago... Part 6 of 8

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 12:16:00 PST

A year ago, just before the plastering of the drywall started, I did an impromptu video walk-through of the cottage. While reviewing the picture album up on Picasa I revisited these video, and wondered why I did not share them back then. So I intend to fix that oversight by uploading them now.

The video comes in eight parts - this is part 6. In this video we get a tour of the tankless water heater and the rest of the basement.

;-)

Cottage Tour... a Year Ago... Part 5 of 8

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 12:16:00 PST

A year ago, just before the plastering of the drywall started, I did an impromptu video walk-through of the cottage. While reviewing the picture album up on Picasa I revisited these video, and wondered why I did not share them back then. So I intend to fix that oversight by uploading them now.

The video comes in eight parts - this is part 5. In this video we finish the tour of the Basement.

;-)

Cottage Tour... a Year Ago... Part 4 of 8

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 12:15:00 PST

A year ago, just before the plastering of the drywall started, I did an impromptu video walk-through of the cottage. While reviewing the picture album up on Picasa I revisited these video, and wondered why I did not share them back then. So I intend to fix that oversight by uploading them now.

The video comes in eight parts - this is part 4. In this video we start by walking up to the front door, and unlocking it.

;-)

On the Edge iPhone App

noreply@blogger.com (Gary Gudbranson) — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 07:07:00 PST

I am experimenting with creating an iPhone App for the Cottage on the Edge.

A simulation of the iPhone App can be found at: Cottage Sample App:

Let me know what you think!

;-)