Crazy 4 Pets

The Concept Behind Breaking Horses Is About Doing It Right - You Only Get One Shot

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 05 Oct 2011 19:49:00 +0000

Yes, you only break a horse once. However, I have heard people say that they re-break a horse, but I don't buy it. From the first day you start the breaking process, you are making indelible markings on your animal; physically, mentally, and emotionally. I could understand re-schooling but if they are broken in a way that they have developed bad habits from the experience, it can take a very, very long time to get that out of their heads. So, take your time, be patient and get it right the first time and life will be much easier for you and your horse down the road. Alright, enough of that, let's get down to business.

Please keep in mind that everyone does things differently, especially when it comes to horses. My methods are the ways that I have found to be best for me and my horses. You can take what I have to say and use it as a guideline, but follow your instincts as they are usually right. Just as each horse is different, each person is different as well. Use it to your advantage.

Break each horse as an individual because they are. The very first thing in starting is introduction. You are going to introduce a bit into the horse's mouth for the first time. Naturally, they are not going to like it. So, take an old bridle, take the reins off of the bit and I prefer a rubber D bit. This is a D bit but has had the part that goes into the horse's mouth covered in usually a black rubbery type coating. I don't really like the bits that are covered in a hard plastic. If they can kind of chew on the bit I think it is more interesting and less intimidating. Have a halter and shank on your horse and gently put the bit into the horses' mouth. It is wise to have someone there with you to help. I never suggest that anyone start to break a horse by themselves. You are entering into the unknown. Once you have the bit in their mouth, adjust the bridle correctly, not hanging too far down; maybe just one little wrinkle on the side of their mouth. Take an old saddle blanket, show it to the horse and let them look at it and smell it, and gently slide it onto their back. Take it off and put it back on over and over again for about 5 minutes. Now that you have finished that, take the shank off and leave the horse in the stall for about ten minutes or so with the bridle still on. Stand there and watch them to make sure they don't do something silly. If your horse is not reacting very much, snap the shank on after the ten minutes and take your horse for a short walk. Take them back into the stall, take the bridle off and pat them on the neck or wherever you usually do and talk to them in a voice of approval. You are done for that day.

Day two and three: repeat the same process, if your horse is not reacting at all, take your horse for a longer walk. NO grazing or eating anything when the bit is in their mouth. Ok, back in the stall, bridle off, big words of approval, you are done. The next day, make sure your stall has plenty of fresh bedding in it. I always used an old, light English type of saddle; less weight, less intimidation. Put the bridle on, put the saddle blanket on. Have your helper hold your horses head standing in front of the horse. Pat your horse while talking to them, show them the saddle, let them get a good look and a good sniff then slowly put the saddle on their back. Wait a minute or so, walk your horse around in the stall a few times. If their eyes are not popping out of their head, show your horse the girth and then walk to the other side of the horse. Always make sure that the person holding the horse has the horse standing in the middle of the stall, facing the same direction every day. Put the girth on, leave it hang and go to the left side of the horse. Talking, talking, talking, bring your girth up and just barely tighten it. Take the horse for another walk or you can tighten the girth just enough to keep it on, leave the stall, let the horse holder unsnap and leave the stall and watch your horse. Some babies are going to blow up, start bucking and making a few noises. Some are going to just stand there and not really care. For the ones that are bucking, give them about ten minutes or so before you go in to take off the tack. For the ones that are just standing there, walk them around the stall a few times, talking, talking, talking to them. Big words of approval, lots of stroking and pats on the neck, take the tack off slowly while the horse holder stands before the horse. You are done.

Day four: follow day three, once the tack is on and your horse is not bucking anymore if that be the case, then a good ten minute walk with a slightly tight girth. Back in the stall, tell your horse what a great job they are doing and you are done.

Day five: repeat day four except, instead of walking, attach a set of side reins to the bit and to the girth. Put enough tension on them just so your horse has to bring his or her head down a little and nose in, to be comfortable. Leave the stall, watch for a few minutes. If your horse is not fussing about the side reigns, then take them for a ten minute or so walk. If they are fussing a lot, you may have to repeat this step. Getting used to a little pressure on their mouths is very important. Some horses' mouths are very sensitive and you must give them time to adjust or even go to a simple straight rubber bit which does not have any steel in it.

Day six: On this day you will put on the bridle but instead of a saddle you will put a surfsingle on them. You will also need a set of driving reigns which are extremely long reign used when horses pull carts or wagons. This is so you can bring them outside either in a shedrow or paddock and attach driving reins to the bit, through the surfsingle and you behind the horse. Now it is important to have someone at your horses' head at all times. You should have reigns that are long enough that you can be within a safe distance behind the horse and leather reigns are the best in my opinion. They should be soft and supple in your hands. What you are doing is getting them first, used to having something touching them on their sides at the same time having someone behind them This also is a very important step in teaching them how to turn, again getting used to the pressure on their mouths. Have the lead person start and stop a few times. Chirping means forward, whoa means stop. Have them turn the horse around as you are giving signals through their mouth and using the reins just as you would use your legs to turn them. Take your time. If your horse is getting excited, then just walk straight and save the turns for the next day. Follow the untacking and approval procedure. Take the reins off of the horse before you walk them back into the stall using the usual approval words and gestures. Maybe even a nice carrot or apple would be a very good idea.

Day Seven: Repeat everything from day six for a few days until you can unsnap the horses' head and they know how to go forward, turn, turn around just with you guiding them from behind and stop. Remember, give or take a total of about ten to fifteen minutes. Keep it fun and with a treat at the end of the session is helpful.

Within a week to ten days depending on how quiet and accepting your horse is, you have your horse accepting a bridle and saddle, long lining, knowing how to go forward, turn, turn around and stop. Not bad. Good job. Keep talking to your horse while you are going through these motions. It makes a difference. Well, that is it for now. I'll be back real soon and happy training.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com/
http://bevsequineproducts.com/
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC and Bev's Equine Products
I'm a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and I now have a natural horse product on the market that aids in the healing process and expedites the healing time. Yes, it is Magic!

Discover the Basic Guide to Proper Horse Care

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 05 Oct 2011 12:43:00 +0000

Any horse enthusiast, especially the one who plans to take care of a horse must realize how important proper horse care is. It serves as a vital element in creating a bond between the owner and the horse. The quality of care, stabling and feeding significantly affect the performance of the horse.

Regular Grooming

A horse just like man needs to be always well-groomed in order to be appealing. Its main purpose is to get rid of dust, dirt and other material such as burs or dried sweat from the horse's coat. Not only that, it also aids to massage the skin and promote blood circulation. Overall, daily grooming of the horse will promote a healthy wellbeing and encourage the horse for a remarkable performance.

There are wild and domesticated horses that need a particular grooming care. Wild horses do this by rolling, scratching and licking each other. On the other hand, the owners of the domesticated horses have the responsibility to keep their horses suave.

The horses' grooming kit includes a hoof pick, a hard and soft brush, a curry comb, a comb and brush for the forelock and tail and of course, a squeegee after washing the horse. Safety must be a priority when grooming a horse. Its head must be tied first in a way that can be controlled but can be easily released in case of an emergency using a quick release stable knot or a panic clip.

In order to clean and wash the horse thoroughly, start by gently scrubbing the coat with a hard brush to eliminate any hard crusts of mud or dried sweat. This is favorable for fleshy areas of the horse excluding the face. After which, a soft brush must be used to clean the horse from head to toe following every grain of the hair. Take note to continually tap the brush clean in order to avoid bringing dirt from one area to another. To remove the last dirt residues, wipe the horse with a cloth or hose and dry off it with a squeegee. Do not forget to include other areas such as the nostrils, corners of the mouth as well as the underside of the tail and the anus. Use a different sponge for each ends of the horse to maintain good hygiene.

The Main and Tail

Horses are widely known for their silky and dazzling hair and it needs proper maintenance. It should be brushed on a daily basis to avoid tangles and prevent foreign matters to build up in the hair. With regards to the tail of the horse, one should be able to grip the tail higher than the area to avoid pulling put excessive hair. The tail can be washed with the appropriate shampoo. Moreover, the mane and forelock are combed flat with a damp brush to maintain its beauty.

Show some love to horses by giving them the proper horse-care they need.

Aria is a horse enthusiast who loves to spend her leisure time with horses.

Arthritis, Joint Injury, and Horse Supplements

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 05 Oct 2011 04:01:00 +0000

If you have a horse suffering from arthritis or joint injury, there is no doubt you have tried just about everything to correct this serious situation. Your horse's overall health is important. Sometimes, though, surgery, exercise, and changes in diet are not enough to truly make a difference. For these problems, you may want to include horse supplements in the every day regimen of your horses.

How Horse Supplements Work

There are many different types of horse supplements on the market today. Those made specifically for joint care, however, are unique. They may serve a few different purposes:

They may slow the amount of cartilage that is lostHelp a horse's body develop new cartilage where the old has been lostReduce the amount of damage caused by joint fluid by slowing the destruction down

Supplements have been found to be very effective for treating certain kinds of joint disease, like arthritis. They have also been shown to be very helpful when it comes to treating pain and inflammation associated with joint injuries and joint surgery.

What is Horse Arthritis and How is it Diagnosed?

Horse arthritis is a degenerative joint disease in which the cartilage around the joints changes and breaks down. This leaves the joints unprotected as the horse moves, cause many different symptoms, such as:

PainInflammationSwollen jointsLoss of range of motionTrouble with movement around the jointStiffnessAttitude changes

Most of the time, horse arthritis is diagnosed through x-rays, ultrasounds, medical history, and observation of how well a horse is walking. Veterinarians may determine whether the horse's gait is wrong or not. They may also take an analysis of the joint fluid to see whether it is playing a role in the deterioration of the cartilage around the joint.

Remedies for Horse Arthritis and Other Joint Problems

There are several ways to treat horse arthritis and other joint problems.

Oral and topical anti-inflammatory medications. These types of medicines will help to reduce the inflammation around the horse's joints. They can also reduce some of the pain your horse experiences.
Medicines may also be injected directly into the joint to help with pain and swelling.
Ice packs can be used to lessen the amount of inflammation a horse has around the joints.
In the most severe cases, where the joint is torn and decomposed beyond repair, surgery may be needed. During the surgery, the joints will be fused together.
Horse supplements are a natural remedy for joint problems. They can work well for arthritis, joint damage due to exercise or strain, joint deterioration, or joints that are injured before, during, or after a surgery.

If your horse is suffering from arthritis or any other type of joint problem, consider using horse supplements to help with the many symptoms associated with these joint diseases. Your horse may experience a longer, happier, and healthier life because of the use of these supplements.

Equiform Nutrition has been a leader in horse supplements and natural equine health for the past century. We offer a complete range of horse supplements, including vitamin and mineral supplements, anti-anxiety aids, horse joint supplements and other products especially created to support performance.

We create our supplements using the most rigid standards of production and the highest quality and purest ingredients. We never use banned substances, so you can use our supplements with the confidence of knowing you are within regulations with horses running under rule.

Check our wide range of horse supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas.

Arabian Racing Bloodlines

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 05 Oct 2011 02:20:00 +0000

Following up on our previous article, which demonstrated how the exception to the rule can work out quite well, we will now get into more specific race horse blood lines. There are basically 4 types of horses that race in a para mutual setting. Thoroughbred, Standard Breds, Quarter Horses, and Arabians. Although now more and more tracks are also including Paints, and Appaloosa's. Since I am most knowledgeable about Arabian Bloodlines, we'll begin there.

The Arabian Horse is actually the foundation of all the Thoroughbred blood lines and the original 3 Arabian Stallions were actually the beginning of the entire Thoroughbred industry. The original 3 stallions were The Darley Arabian, The Godolphin Arabian Barb and The Bierly Turk. These Arabian Stallions were imported to England and all Thoroughbreds can be traced back to one of these three Stallions. But, more on that for a future article.

Currently, the leading Arabian Sire in the United States is "Burning Sands", and he has been the leading Stallion for six years in a row. Recently there has been a major influx of French Stallions to the U.S. and they are producing quite well. These stallions include, Chandaka, Kaolino, Felina Des Fabries and Virgule Al Maury. The number one Stallion in the U.S. for a decade or longer was "Wiking". Polish Stallions, Wiking included, were among the early predominant Stallions and they included such great stallions as Monarch AH, D A Adios, Czort, Sambor, Orzel, Mellon, Samtyr, and Kontiki. Some Russian Blood lines of note were the Stallions Patent, Novator, and RD Five Star. Representatives of Egyptian Stallions are Aswan, ZT Alibaba and MHF Eclipse. There are some winning Studs that reproduce themselves by producing many winners and then there are the Studs that are considered "Mare" producers; meaning their daughters produce winners therefore skipping a generation.

You need to pick a good mare to match up with these stallions and there are dozens of great producing mares. Some of the current stand-outs are: Dixie Darlene, Queen Kong, Frynch, Novelynn, More Odora, Sasanka, Royal Athena, Sambors Colors, Heaven Kan Wait, Halianna, Lady Wiking, Sabellina, Adorable, and the list goes on. I cannot stress to you the importance that the mare makes in the outcome of a successful racehorse. She is with the foal for the first 4 to 6 months of a foals life, not counting the 11 months of gestation she has and has a tremendous influence on the foal. So, in wrapping up this article, just remember NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF A FEMALE.

There are many places that you can go to research and find information about Arabian Racing.

Joy Cox has been involved with Arabian Racing for many years and held her trainers license.

http://www.onlineanimalinfo.com/

Advice on How to Care for Your Horse's Coat

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 15:21:00 +0000

In preparation for winter, horses' coats will become thicker and their finer summer coat will be shed, making way for a warmer winter coat. Between September and January we will see hair just about everywhere as it is shed from our horses' coats. So very soon, many of us will be reaching into the far-flung corner of the tack room to find the clippers we stored last year.

There are many styles of clip that can be applied to your horse's coat and the choice of clip will primarily be dependent on the type of work you require from your horse. The purpose of clipping is to prevent the horse from becoming chilled after exercise if they have worked up a sweat. Having a longer coat will mean that the sweat will stay on the horse and become cold. If the horse is clipped any sweat can easily be absorbed by a cooler rug.

The purchase of clippers should be looked upon as an investment and quality and performance should always be high on the purchasers list of requirements. If purchased second-hand this can be compromised and often they will not come with a manufacturers guarantee. There are different clippers available and your choice will be dependent on weight, noise volume, grip, requirement and size. Smaller clippers (many can often be battery-powered), can be used for trimming whiskers, whereas larger, more comprehensive clippers that run at a higher speed will be required to clip manes and tails. Trimmers should always be used around the more delicate areas, eyes, hooves, bridle path and ears.

Horses should be clipped throughout the season to prevent the coat form becoming too thick. Horses that are more nervous when being clipped should be clipped using finer blades. This can help the clip to last for longer before it needs doing again. Blades can be purchased from 1mm to 7mm coat thicknesses. Generally they will last between 5 and 10 full clips. It is recommended that a spare set of blade be available before beginning any clip to prevent having to continue clipping should the blades become too blunt mid-clip. Blunt blades should never be used as they pull the coat and are particularly inefficient.

Clippers and their blades are not an inexpensive item so should be looked after well. If the blades become hot when clipping, cooling agents should be applied before continuing. Before putting the clippers away they should be fully cleaned and oiled in order to prolong their life. It is important to note that WD40 should never be used as a lubricant as it can be electrically conductive. There are many ranges of specifically formulated oils designed just for clippers that should be used instead. Oil should be applied in 5minute intervals, in between the blades in order to fully lubricate the entire rotating crank mechanism. The air filters of most clippers can be soaked during cleaning then rinsed. The blades should be removed, cleaned then fully smeared in oil.

Erin is a freelance interior designer and in her free time she enjoys going out to the countryside, whilst wearing her equestrian clothing to go riding. For more information on the issues raised, visit Anything Equine.

Origins of the Thoroughbred

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 07:32:00 +0000

As mentioned in our previous article, the origins of all horses belonging to the Thoroughbred breed have been attributed to three Arabian Stallions. The Byerley Turk (the earliest of the three), The Darley Arabian, and The Godolphin Arabian.

The Thoroughbred Jockey Club has documented some 3 million Thoroughbreds in their "Stud Book" and approximately 40,000 registered each year. The extreme diversity of Thoroughbred Stallions is reflected by the industries' demand for a "Live Cover" by the Stud being used. That is to say the Thoroughbred industry does not permit transported semen or artificial insemination of any kind. The Arabian Jockey Club does allow for transported and frozen semen which limits the diversity of Stallions.

The Thoroughbred Jockey Club owes its beginnings to James Weatherby who created the first "Stud Book" in 1791. He listed pedigrees of over 350 mares, each of which could be traced back to "Eclipse", a descendant of The Darley Arabian, Matchem, a grandson of The Godolphin Arabian or Herod, A great grandson of The Byerley Turk.

The first TB to reach America was a Stallion named "Bulle Rock" in 1730. Some 186 Thoroughbred's would be imported to the colonies forming the foundation of the Thoroughbred family tree. Colonel Sanders Bruce published the first American Stud Book in 1873 and was subsequently taken over by The Jockey Club.

Progeny of Stallions and mares relate primarily to earnings on the race track. "Storm Cat" commanded a stud fee of $500,000.00 and his sons and daughters have won over $100,000,000.00 and he is considered to be a "Sire of Sires." Just as important as the Sire is the Mare, and one of the most important bloodlines of the 20th. Century is the Mare "La Troienne."

A number of Champions trace back to her including Seattle Slew, A.P. Indy, Sea Hero, Go For Gin, Easy Goer, etc., etc. Smarty Jones also has two crosses to La Troienne and he has bloodlines that go back to a War Admiral and La Troienne cross.

So it must be obvious that with 40,000 registered Thoroughbreds it is impossible to give anything except a brief overview of Thoroughbred bloodlines. I would refer the reader to three excellent books: Designing Speed by Ken McLean; Racehorse Breeding Theories by Frank Mitchell; and finally The Byerley Turk by Jeramy James in which he characterized the first and greatest Arabian Stallion and his rise to prominence through Capt. Robert Byerley.

We'll next take a look at the Standard bred Horse as well as the ever popular Quarter Horse.

How to Successfully Get Through the Winter With Your Horses Routine

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 01:48:00 +0000

Going into the winter with your horses can be a daunting process. You know you're going to have limited day light and either you're going to have to do everything by touch light or get someone to help you do your horses which often means you then won't see them in the day light yourself for most of the week. Everyone pony owner hates the winter but it's one of the problems with living in England. My article is going to help you and advice you on how to successfully go through the winter without huge problems. If you prepare right you're going to get through as well as you possible can. I hope you find this article informative and useful.

Firstly don't forget that it's already getting dark out there by 7.30 so make sure you have your evening routine down to a 'T'. This may mean getting some of your things ready in the morning or preparing in bulk at the weekend. Bucket feeds can be made up in advance and stored. This means you only need to grab it to do them in the evening. Hay can be stored in a spare paddock near where they are grazing so you don't need to carry it from the yard. If you don't have the time to bring them onto the yard to sort rugs out and do not want to drag them back and from the yard you may wish to invent in a little locker which you can store at the entrance to your field and pop unused rugs in their.

Make sure you check your tack such as stirrups and leathers at the start of the winter. Stirrups and leathers will very quickly get damp once the cold weather comes and any items which are a little old will soon break so replace anything early on so you don't need to do it when it's dark. There is nothing worth than spending valuable riding time visiting the saddlery to pick up new items to ride in.

Don't forget to consider that something's may need to be bigger due to extra layers if you're cold. You may ride in bigger boots to prevent your feet from getting cold so stirrup iron sizes may need to be larger than you planned.

If you haven't got lights near where your horses are it may be worth investing in some so that you can see what you're doing. They are dangerous animals and looking after them in the dark isn't safe.

Don't forget to check your stirrup iron sizes and sitrrups and leathers this winter

Breaking Horses Is Easy If You Speak Their Language And Listen To What They Have Say

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 12:27:00 +0000

Now the journey has begun. You have a baby that has learned to accept the bit, go forward while being driven, accept strange things touching their sides and rump, learning small amounts of voice commands and accepting a saddle on their backs not to mention that annoying girth that really does not feel all that great. The next step is to get on their back. Probably most horses, if they accept human beings as their friend, will be fairly open to allowing you to climb aboard. For the few that really do not think that it is a good idea, your expertise will be necessary to help them to understand that this will be a part of their life and if they object a little, that is fine, but do not get carried away.

Again, make sure your stall has a considerable amount of bedding in it. Take your filly or colt into the stall with halter and shank attached. Put your horse facing the same way as every other day. Put on the bridle except now you will have reins attached to the bit. Put your saddle onto the horse and tighten a little, walk your baby around the stall once or twice. This is where you definitely need a good horseman at the head of your horse. After a few turns, tighten your girth up more and maybe one more turn. Stand your horse in the usual spot, horse holder on the left side in between the horses head and the rider who is standing facing the saddle on the horse's back. Have the rider gather the reins; the horse holder is going to give the rider a lift up over the horse's back but only gently laying across the saddle. This is called bellying them. If the horse is ok, while the horse holder is still holding onto the rider's left leg with his or her right hand, they need to keep a good hold onto the baby's head and ask the horse to go forward moving around in the stall. If the horse misbehaves, the rider can slide off and you can walk the horse around the stall one or two times and try again. Some babies will have a get a hump in their back which means they are getting ready to start bucking,so move the baby several turns one way, several turns the opposite way if the rider feels comfortable with you letting go of their leg. Now have the rider slide off, pat the horse and talk to the horse directly and maybe get back up one or two more times depending on how your horse is reacting. When you feel that you have accomplished your lesson for the day, untack and give your horse big words of approval and you are done. Turn your baby back out or give them a nice flake of hay. Remember to keep it short, sweet and to the point. Make sure that you have their attention at every step. This way your input will make an impact as long as you do not make the lessons too long and boring. Small amounts of learning each day will have big rewards in the end result. Knowing the difference makes the difference.

The next day follow the same procedure and if your horse seems unaffected by all of this, let the rider come back down and go back up slowly but this time sit on the horses back. Take a few spins around the stall, both ways. If your horse is very quiet, and does not have a hump in their back, if the rider feels confident, take the shank off and let the horse holder leave the stall and close the door. Now it is up to the rider to keep the baby going forward and help them to understand that rider up means going forward. Now the driving that you did will come into play. Do some easy figure eights in the stall. About five minutes of that is plenty. So, if the horse decides to cut a buck, there is not very far to go and the rider can stay in control. Ok, five minutes are up, horse holder back in the stall, snap on shank, take the tack off, big pat and maybe even a hug and perhaps some excited words for the student.

Repeat this the next day, if the horse is responsive, have the horse holder lead the baby out of the stall with the rider on, just be careful and go slow. Depending on whether you have a shed row which I think is the best for young horses or a paddock, the first day you should keep the horse holder at the horse's head. The next day if the rider feels comfortable, then turn the baby loose after a few turns around the shed or in the paddock. This is when having more than one horse being broken is greatly to your advantage. There will be a leader and the others will follow as a general rule. Well, I have gotten you to the paddock with rider on your horses back. I will be back shortly to continue with the next step in breaking and educating your horse.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com/
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I'm a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and is now offering my very first natural horse product, Bev's Equine Magic Salve, that is above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results.

Teaching Young Horses To Go "FORWARD" Is Monumental For Success In The Breaking Process

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 10:44:00 +0000

Now that your youngster has learned to accept you on their back, doing figure eights at a walk and accepting the bit when asked to stop is a good beginning. This next step can be hard if you do not have a lead horse to help your baby understand that they not only need to go forward, but at a faster pace. Most young horses are not that willing to jog with you on their back. This is a new experience and a new feeling for them. Their whole life they have been able to run, jump, buck and play whenever THEY felt like it, not when someone asked or told them to. Usually you can get them to go a few strides but they will automatically go back down to a walk. Some of them will do this many, many, many times, because they do not want to do it or they are just not sure what it is that you are asking of them. This is where another horse in front of them comes in very handy. If your baby is in the shed row by themselves or in a paddock by themselves and you are trying to get them to jog and they are not liking it, as soon as they see another horse, especially if it is a friend of theirs, they usually are very happy to follow. Part of this is because their attention is on the other horse and not on you. So if their buddy jogs, well then, that's ok with me, I just want to be with another horse instead of being out in this paddock by myself. At this stage of the breaking process, try to travel the road to least resistance.

If you have a young horse that is being stubborn and just refuses to go forward, or even puts their head up in the air and tries to run off, then you may want to bring your lead horse next to your baby and see if that helps. Try to converse with the other person and stay very relaxed. If your youngster still is resistant, have the person on the other horse take a rope shank and snap it onto the babies' halter that is under the bridle. Take another five or ten minutes to try and help your baby to understand that you very much would like for them to move forward at a faster pace alongside the other horse. If they still are not giving you the results you want, just continue doing the best you can, staying calm, until the time is up and untack. The next day, make sure you have that same horse with your baby, snap the shank on again and repeat the same lesson. If you are not getting the results you should be getting, you may need to use another horse, which will be on the right side of the baby. Usually this is not necessary, I am just explaining in case you come upon this problem. If you feel it is necessary, you may need to use a riding crop, another name, a persuasion stick or whip. Personally, I have never used spurs on a young horse, I prefer a riding whip. This is not to be used to beat a horse up. It is to be used strategically at the right moment. If you are going to use a whip, make it count. When I was learning to break yearlings, you were allowed to use a stick, but if you just gave them a love tap, it was taken away. If you are going to use this valuable tool, you need to crack the horse on the rump, really mean it and leave it alone. If you are very stern they will get the message. Just be prepared at all times, when you are turning your stick on a youngster and are using it with conviction, be prepared for anything. Some babies will heed to your demands and that may be the one and only time that you will have to use this drastic measure. On the other hand, if you have a defiant baby that is in the attitude mode, you may be going for a rough ride. Some horses when you turn the stick on them will turn inside out because they have never had anything sting their butt like that before. The best case scenario is to have someone at their head, preferably on another horse or someone at their head on the ground.

Now your youngster has the idea that you really want them to go forward at a jog and keep going at a jog. Forward, forward, forward. You as the rider must keep this on your mind constantly when you are on your young horses back. As you are thinking forward, all of your body language will convey this to your horse and they will pick up on it and have a better understanding of what it is you are asking for. Once they have accepted the forward concept, half of the battle has been won. Now, take what you have taught them, work on the jogging until they are very good at responding to your commands. I cannot tell you exactly how many days or weeks but make sure they are good at jogging and paying attention to you on their back before you move on to the next step. Remember; keep it short, sweet and to the point. As the days progress, and your horse is becoming a little fit to the task and really is not minding it at all then you can move up to cantering or loping depending on your discipline. Always end on a positive note with your horse and lots of praise. They do not know the words that you are saying but they certainly understand the tone and excitement in your voice and the kindness in your heart. Again, I will be back shortly with more tips on making the breaking process an easy one.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com/
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I'm a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and now offer an exceptional, all natural horse product, Bev's Equine Magic Salve, that is above and beyond any other products in comparison and guarantees fantastic results. This salve can also be used on canine, feline, and livestock. Stay tuned as new products to follow!

Benefits of Horse Joint Supplements for Your Elderly Horse

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 22:24:00 +0000

As your horse begins to age, he may be susceptible to joint problems. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle and using horse joint supplements can make a big different in combating these joint problems, and can also help with other issues older horses have. If your horse is growing older, and you want to make sure he is healthy and happy, here are some tips for caring for him.

Joint Diseases and Horse Joint Supplements

There are a variety of joint diseases that affect horses. Horse joint supplements have proven to be effective for treating, as well as preventing,symptoms of these diseases. Here are some of the areas horse joint supplements can help:
Arthritis- Also known as osteoarthritis and degenerative joint diseases, this joint disease is caused by the breakdown of cartilage around a horse's joints. If your horse develops arthritis, you may notice a change in the horse's behavior or performance. The horse may have difficulty walking, may have inflammation in the joint, or the joint may have heat in it. Arthritis can affect the following joints:

SpineStiflePastern JointsCoffin JointsHocksFetlocks

Traumatic joint disease- After the age of two, new cartilage is not produced for your horse's joints. As the horse grows older, the cartilage around his joints takes on a lot of wear and tear. This can make him susceptible to traumatic injuries, which can cause permanent lameness. There are several types of traumatic joint disease:

Synovitis, which is the swelling of the synovial membraneCapsulitis, which is the swelling of the fibrous joint capsuleBone fracturesLigament tears

How Horse Supplements Help Joint Diseases

Everyone knows horses love to run. They are an active species who aren't happy standing in a stall for long periods of time. However, older horses who suffer from joint diseases may find it difficult to maintain an active lifestyle. You can help them by using horse joint supplements.

Horse supplements can help lubricate your horse's joints, making it easier for them to walk around. They may also relieve some of the symptoms associated with joint diseases, such as inflammation, pain, and lack of flexibility. They also provide nutritional value to increase the overall health of your horse.

Along with horse supplements, it is important to consider other factors that will keep your horse healthy and happy, including:

Providing enough open space for your elderly horse to run around. Even though you can't ride him anymore, he still needs to be able to exercise.Feeding him a nutritional dietMaintaining hoof and coat care to ensure healthTaking him to the vet for regular checkupsGiving him the love and attention he needs and deserves

When your horse is suffering from joint disease, consider using horse joint supplements. They will help your beloved equine overcome the symptoms of these diseases and get him on the road to recovery.

Check our full line of horse joint supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas. We are here to meet the needs of your horse.

What's in Nature's Medicine Chest for Horse Allergies and Hayfever?

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 08:53:00 +0000

Does your horse suffer from allergies and hayfever like symptoms? Spring and summer can certainly be the time of year when such unpleasant problems can make themselves known. Just like humans, horses can suffer the horrible effects of hayfever but luckily there are some wonderful herbs available to ease the discomfort.

Hayfever in horses can often manifest as a recurrent cold like symptom with coughing and streaming eyes. It can be like a constant recurrent cold which your horse never seems to fully recover from. The lungs can become inflamed and your horse can be more susceptible to infections. Head shaking is another possible symptom. He may be tired and lethargic and generally seem quite miserable.

There are different causes to allergic respiratory problems. There are molds, spores and weeds which can be found in hay or even in the pastures during spring and summer. The body can become sensitive to these elements and cause an allergic reaction. When feeding hay it is wise to wet the hay so you are decreasing the dust element.

Your vet will be able to possibly find the cause using a procedure that looks at the fluid and cells in the horse's lungs to see how bad the allergy is. There is also a blood test that can determine what 'in fact your horse is allergic to which in turn will make it a lot easier to treat.

From a herbal perspective the horses immune system is usually seen to be quite low. You therefore can start treatment by boosting the immune system early in the season. Herbs such as Echinacea, Garlic. Rosehips and Kelp are all great general immune boosting herbs. Echinacea and Garlic will also be helpful for fighting any infection that may be developing.

Natural expectorants can help soothe a cough and clear the passages, making breathing easier for your horse.. Herbs such as Mullein and Marshmallow are 2 such herbs. Vitamins found in herbs can help restore damaged tissues and build up the immune system also.

Natural antihistamines have an important part to play when it comes to allergies. Horseradish is a lovely effective herb and can help reduce streaming eyes and some of the uncomfortable symptoms. Also calming down an over reactive nervous system with herbs such as chamomile is a great way to go.

It is most effective to start addressing allergy problems well before the season begins. If you work on building the immune system early then being prepared with your herbal toolkit then you will find it possible to make a real difference in your horses life.

Choosing a Suitable Stable Rug for Your Horse

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 03:02:00 +0000

Stable horse rugs are designed to keep your horse warm, protected and clean when stabled. There is a massive range of stable rugs available on the market, each offering various key features, all of which need to be considered when purchasing a stable rug.

Your biggest decision may well be surrounding the level of warmth offered by the rug. This is dependent upon the amount of filling inside the rug. The filling, often referred to as weight, will vary from lightweight (no to 110g of filling) to medium weight (120g to 250g of filling) to heavyweight (above 250g of filling).

Your requirements in terms of weight will depend on the time of year, your horse's needs and the location in which your horse is stabled. For example a horse that feels the cold in winter will need a thicker rug than a hardier horse. Equally, if the horse is stabled inside a barn, this is usually warmer and hence the horse requires a less heavy rug than when kept in a stable that's open to the elements.

Another key choice is whether to purchase a 'standard neck' stable rug or a 'full neck' or 'combo' version. This difference between these is how the rug is cut at the neck. A 'standard neck' rug starts at the horse's withers and therefore does not cover the horse's neck. 'Combo' or full neck horse rugs, which cover the horse's neck from the ears, offer greater warmth and protection. However some standard neck stable rugs offer the option of a separate neck cover, which can be added onto the rug, enabling you to adjust the coverage as the weather changes.

One main consideration when choosing the style and weight of stable rug is whether your horse has been clipped or not. You will need to replace any coverage that has been lost through clipping. This should be taken into account when making the choice between a full neck and a standard neck stable rug.

The depth of the rug will also affect how much warmth it will provide the horse with. This shape will vary with style and brand. As many economy rugs are less generous, spending less can be a false economy as you may find that the rug does not offer the coverage and protection that your horse requires.

The 'Denier' of a rug describes the strength of the outer fabric; the higher the Denier the tougher the material on the outer of the rug. As a stable rug is not open to the elements or as much potential damage as a turnout rug, they tend to have a lower Denier rating. However, as with turnout rugs, a stable rug with a higher Denier is likely to be tougher, and hence may last longer. It is important to remember that stable rugs will still rip if placed under sufficient pressure; this is as a safety mechanism to prevent your horse from being injured.

Stable rugs offer a wide range of fixtures and fittings to help keep them securely in place. This is important as your horse may roll in his stable, causing the rug to slip. Most stable rugs will feature chest straps, cross surcingles and leg straps as well as any closures for the neck cover. Ensure that these attachments are done up correctly to avoid the rug coming loose or rubbing.

There are also additional features that can help improve the comfort of a rug; an essential consideration as your horse is going to be wearing this piece of equipment regularly and for significant periods of time. Look for anti-rub linings, particularly at the shoulder as this is a high risk area for chaffing, and shoulder and neck gussets, which allow for greater freedom of movement, especially important for when the horse lies down and then stands up!

You can find a wide range of of stable rugs at great prices at Equestrian Clearance.

The Basic Things to Learn in Horse Riding Using the Auxiliary Aids

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 15:45:00 +0000

Horse riding is a fun and dynamic activity that comes with safety precautions. The rider must be able to understand the importance and know how to apply the auxiliary aids such as the voice, whip and spurs. These three are very helpful in communicating to the horse while expressing the rider's intentions and in backing up the basic aids of the legs and reins.

The Voice
One of the most influential factors to trigger any reaction from the animals like the horse is the voice. This can be utilized to young horses but not to older horses. On the other hand, there are some disciplines such as Dressage which do not permit verbal cues to horses. Horses are wise animals that can easily perceive the verbal cues through the tone of the voice. Their reactions can be prompt by the attitude and actions of the rider. The horses react gently to a calm and relaxed manner of talking. Nevertheless, they can become alert and vigilant with short and hasty commands.

Training a horse can be challenging because you need to be spontaneous and firm with the commands. New exercises can be more effective when a calm and reassuring voice is being used. However, if you want to reinforce a skill or get a response from the horse, a stimulating voice is very useful. Horses have sharp hearing skills and are able to respond depending on what they hear. A raise in voice or yelling can be traumatic to the horse, thus it is not highly recommended since the main aim of voice command is to boost up the confidence of the horse.

The Whip
Another skill to be mastered in training or communicating with a horse is the use of a whip. Its function is to initiate alertness to the horse as well to increase the engagement of the hind quarters. It is positioned across the rider's thigh and point to the rear of the horse. It must be used with a short, sharp tap at the right timing to let the horse know that the whip is also for communication. When used wrongly, it can lead the horse to become unresponsive or become frightened to commands.

The Spurs
The spur is not merely an accessory to the horse. It makes the application of the leg aids more refined and efficient as well as reinforces a leg aid if the horse is not giving the desired response. The wearer must be able to apply his legs in a controlled manner, independent of the seat. On the other hand, over usage is not a good idea too because it will make the horse either dull upon application or can get them alarmed.

Aria Torres is a horse lover and has a passion for Polo Sport. She has a wide collection of Polocrosse supplies. There are many wonderful supplies that might just catch your interest too.

Polocrosse Supplies

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Using Horse Supplements During Breeding

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Sat, 01 Oct 2011 03:32:00 +0000

Breeding horses can be a big money making business. For those who are a part of this business, every successful conception counts. If you want to make sure your horses are ready for breeding and will produce healthy and beautiful foals, you may want to consider using horse supplements. These supplements will help ensure your horses will be at the top of their game when it comes time for breeding.

Types of Horse Supplements used for Breeding

For breeders, it is very important for horses to be healthy and happy in order to produce strong and healthy foals. This is especially true when it comes to performance horses, because the right breeding can mean a lot of money can be made.

If you are new to breeding, here are just a few of the most used kinds of supplements.

Calcium and Phosphorus- This combination is most often used for mares. When combined correctly, it will help ensure a better immune system and will also provide the nutrients needed for foal development. It helps a growing foal to develop a strong bone structure while within the womb. This is also one of many horse supplements that can increase fertility in mares.
Linseed Oil- This popular type of horse supplement is generally used to help increase a stallion's fertility. It is thought to help the immune system, increase the total amount of semen, and increase the overall health of a stallion. These changes are often contributed to the number of Omega-3 fatty acids located in the linseed oil.
Honey- Many horse supplements contain honey, which offers rich antioxidants and other minerals which help in the vitality, stamina, and sex drive of a horse. When combined with garlic and glucose, honey supplements can also aid with respiratory and blood circulation.
Calmers-There are several different types of calming supplements available, each containing different ingredients. The purpose of these calming supplements during breeding is to reduce the stress of brood mare while breeding is taking place. Less stress can make it easier for fertilization to occur.

Why Use Horse Supplements During Breeding?

Some breeders may question whether they should use horse supplements during breeding. These supplements are generally not harmful to the horse, and can be beneficial in many ways, including:
· Boosting the immune system
· Increasing fertilization
· Reduce stress
· Assist in foal development
· Increase stamina
· Increase sex drive
· Reduce strain on muscles during breeding

The supplements may also contain ingredients that can help in other areas of the horse's health, such as blood circulation, respiratory problems, weight gain, and hoof health. While not every breeder will want to start his horses on a supplement to assist with breeding, they can be helpful when used correctly.

If you are new to breeding, and want to help your horses as much as possible during the process, consider using horse supplements. There is a good chance your horses will be much happier, healthier, and much more fertile if you do.

Check our full line of horse supplements, as well as our immune range, our performance range, breeding supplements, hoof health line, and our other health specialty formulas. We are here to meet the needs of your horse.

Equine Equipment

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 21:09:00 +0000

Approximately 4500 B.C. is the best estimate of when horses were ridden and equine equipment was first used, although there is some controversy over the exact date. The teeth on a stallion that was buried approximately 6000 years ago, shows wear consistent with using a bit.

The one piece of equine equipment that is used to direct the horse is the bridle. The bridle consists of the headstall, the reins, and the bit. There are also hackamores and other types of bitless bridles. The hackamore controls the horse by putting pressure on the face.

Saddles were used by 800 B.C. and were simple pads attached with a surcingle. The saddle tree came into use much later. Saddles today are designed for a specific equestrian discipline. A saddle should fit the horse properly and also the rider. When the saddle fits correctly the comfort of the horse is increased and its useful life prolonged. With the use of the solid tree the rider's weight in the stirrups is evenly distributed. The two major categories of saddles are the Western saddle and the English saddle.

Paired stirrups were used by 302 A.D. which is much later than other equine equipment. Some of the first stirrups used were small loops attached to the saddle that only the big toe could fit into. The riders, of course, rode barefoot. Later a single stirrup was used for mounting. The Chinese are credited for the paired stirrup used today.

The breast collar or breast plate is used to keep the saddle from sliding backwards. On riding horses it is used on both Western saddles and English saddles. When the breast collar is used on working horses it uses a thicker sturdier strap. The breast collar used on western show saddles and English saddles uses a thinner strap.

Warfare traditions brought to America by the Spanish Conquistadores and working cattle were the two influences from which western riding evolved. Equine equipment changed to meet the working needs of the cowboy. Because of the long hours, rough terrain, and shock of roping the saddle tree was made stronger. The style of the stirrup was made wider and tapaderos were sometimes added to keep brush from sticking in the stirrup.

There are many different types of equine equipment in use today, each developed for a specific discipline. Whether riding English or Western you will need specific equipment for the discipline you ride. Dressage riders use different equipment than jumpers just as barrel racers use different equipment than reining horses.

For more information on equine equipment go to thebestofhorses.com.

If you would like to review and look at different types of equine equipment take a quick look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com/.

Try to Save Money When Kitting Out Your Horse

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:34:00 +0000

Having a new horse can be very expensive, I don't think people who haven't had horses before or know very little about them appreciate just how much the experience can cost. The average horse costs around three to four thousand pounds and this isn't including horses for eventing. On top of this cost you have to purchase their clothing and tack which can easily cost another two thousand so a you can imagine it's not a cheap purchase. I've written the following article to help inform you of ways to purchase good quality products without spending lots of money. I hope you find the following article informative and useful.

Firstly it's worth considering what you need, you can rush into many different purchases which you just do not need. For example if you have a native breed which has a big thick coat you don't need to purchase many rugs as they are hardier animals so really make it count when you purchase new turnout.

Secondly I would recommend going online on local forum sites or becoming a member of groups on social media sites. I've recently done this having had horses for years and I couldn't believe how useful they are. People request different items of tack and save a fortune. You can easily swop items too which is great if you have had ponies before but need different items of tack.

If you need to purchase lots of new things but are struggling to find the money consider what you can buy which will last a long time but is cheap too. Plastic stirrup 's are good as they are extremely cheap but only cost around ten pounds rather than a lot more. Plastic stirrup irons can be bought at any saddlery.

You don't need to get things new, auction sites and the local paper can be a great way to pick up new items at lower prices. I would recommend getting bits, buckets and anything like that new as you know they're sterile but other than that other items don't matter.

I hope you're found the above article helpful, don't forget that it's great to be part of a group or community as you can not only help others but people will be there to help you too so take full advantage of social media sites, forums and the internet.

Go on who and purchase your items today!

John Cooper would advise you to purchase from plastic stirrup or plastic stirrup irons

Through The Eyes Of A Horse

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 09:21:00 +0000

Have you ever thought what goes through the mind of a horse which has never been handled before, when you bring it in for training?

Exactly the same that will go through your mind the first time you enter a space rocket! It is overwhelming.

That horse is totally unfamiliar with EVERYTHING that surrounds him. He's never been confined to an area as small as a stable before, or even a pen. He has absolutely no idea what you intend doing with him. All that he is familiar with is to flee from danger, and NOW HE CAN'T. All he can think of is to get free. As far as he can figure out, your next step might be to hurt or kill him, like a lion or any predator would under the circumstances he is familiar with (open pasture, in nature). This is a horse's natural instinct.

What goes through his mind the first time you attempt to touch him? What are your intentions? Instinctively he flees from danger, and NOW HE CAN'T. What is a saddle? Is it an object which is going to hurt, injure or kill him? Or a harness? How unfamiliar are these objects to him!!!!!

You want to put a halter or bridle on. You are threatening his most precious, but also his most vulnerable possessions: his eyes and ears, those parts of his anatomy he needs most to become aware of impending danger, warning him in time to flee. If something happens to his eyes and ears, he has no warning system against danger.

Is he familiar with touch by any living creature, besides another horse? In his natural state, will he allow a predator to touch his body, let alone his eyes?

Further more, it should be borne in mind that animals have a natural inborn fear of man. God created them that way, primarily to protect us against them, and secondly to enable us to subdue them.

What do insensitive, inexperienced, just plain stupid horsemen do?

Instead of realizing and considering these facts, they try to overpower the horse, often hurting it to subdue it.

The (logical) result? The horse's fear of getting hurt, and of the bad intentions of man, are proven to be well founded!!! The object DOES hurt, and man DOES have bad intentions!!! Just plain logic!!!

What should our approach be? Convince the horse that the object (saddle, bridle, harness etc.) does NOT hurt, and man does NOT intend to harm him.

Sweet baby talk does NOT convince a horse. No horse understands English, German or Spanish.

You have to convey the idea to the horse in a language HE understands, and you have to understand what HE is trying to tell YOU.

Watch out for the follow up article in about two weeks time, or get the complete course on horsemanship, covering an extremely broad spectrum (such as long lining, mounting and hitching for the first time, reining, discussion of a horse's conformation, rider exercises, grooming, home remedies which mostly work better than medicines you buy, equine dentistry etc.) in great detail by ordering your copy on http://www.greenhorsetrainingbook.org/order/ to have immediate access to the entire course.

Boeta Slabbert is a life long breeder of American Saddlebred Horses, who has been starting his own horses and those of other breeders for almost forty years. During this period he has studied the techniques of different trainers, followed courses and read extensively on the subject of horse behaviour. His practical techniques are now available in book form, and can be ordered on the website link in the article.

Cute Puppy pictures,puppies pictures

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 07:22:00 +0000

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Horse Halters

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 21:45:00 +0000

Nylon webbing that is flat or flat leather are two common designs for horse halters. These are attached by rings. A halter made of rope is usually joined by knots but otherwise made basically the same. A horse halter is used to tie up the animal or lead the animal from the ground. A horse is very seldom ridden with a halter because you do not have a lot of control. Halters are designed for nothing except leading or tying up the horse or catching and holding the horse. For tying up the horse a halter is safer than a bridle. The bridle can break and the bit hurt the horse's mouth.

The horse halter has a noseband and headstall that buckles around the horse's head. The lead rope is attached to the halter for easy handling. Some lead ropes have chains attached. The chain is placed under the jaw or over the nose of the horse for better control when leading the horse. This is used for horses that are hard to handle.

The halter is generally taken off when the horse is released into the pasture or put into the stall. Some people leave the halter on when they release the horse into the pasture but there is always a safety issue with doing this. The halter can catch on something and the horse can get injured. Of course, this makes the horse easier to catch.

When you approach your horse always approach from the front. Walk toward his shoulder and talk to him as you are approaching. Reach under the horse's neck with your left hand while holding the lead rope and change the lead rope to your right hand. You can then make a loop around his neck and while you halter, hold him. Make sure your halter is unbuckled. Place the noseband of the halter in position and buckle the halter, still having control of the horse with the loop around his neck. Remove the loop and you are ready to lead.

Make a loop around the horse's neck when you are ready to remove the halter, the same as you did when you were putting the halter on. Hold the loop, unbuckle the halter and slip it off the horse's nose. Hold onto the loop for a couple seconds so that the horse does not get into the habit of moving away as soon as he feels the halter come off.

While working with your horse in halter do not wrap the excess lead rope into a circular coil. Your hand could become entangled in the coil and you could get injured. Wrap the excess rope into a figure eight and hold the outside of the rope with your free hand. If the horse pulls away the rope will give one section at a time and you will not be injured. Never wrap the lead rope around your body at any time. Remember, the horse is much stronger than you are.

Usually, you are on the left side of the horse when you are leading him but a horse should be trained to lead from either side. Go take a quick look at thebest of horses.com for more information on halters.

If you would like to see more information on horse halters go take a look at http://www.thebestofhorses.com/

Standardbred Bloodlines for Harness Racing

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 10:51:00 +0000

The origin of the term "Standardbred" was first officially used in 1879. In order for a Standardbred to be registered they must be able to trot a distance of one mile in 2 minutes and 30 seconds, the "standard", and hence the name of the breed, "Standardbred". Now days many standardbreds, which include both trotters and pacers, can go much faster and can eclipse 2 minutes.

The National Association of Trotting Horse Breeders formed The Standardbred Stud Book in 1879. Breeders selected bloodlines that would produce the fastest horses, and one of the most famous sires was a Thoroughbred Stallion "Messenger". Messenger was brought to the United States in 1788 and many of his descendants produced runners and trotters. One of his descendants was Hambletonian 10, born in 1849 and he became one of the most prolific sires in the history of Standardbreds. Today almost every trotter or pacer can be traced back to Hambletonian 10.

There are many outstanding Stallions, but one of the best was "Tar Heel". He set 2 world records and later became one of the best producers. According to Bradley "as a broodmare sire, Tar Heel ranks as one of the greatest of all time and a strong case could be made that he is absolutely the best". Considering his daughters produced 3 winners of Pacing's Triple Crown, I.e., Bret Hanover, Romeo Hanover, and Ralph Hanover, it would seem that "Tar Heel" was truly a great broodmare Sire.

The other half of the golden cross is Adios, a winner of 43 out of 87 starts. Adios is considered by many to be the greatest Standardbred of time with a tremendous amount of speed and set many world records at 1/2 mile and 7/8 mile. Additionally Adios passed this speed on to his off-spring.

According to Bradley: "The Blood of Adios changed harness racing forever and continues to be a major presence in modern great Pacers. "Hal Dale" was the sire of Adios, and sired many great stallions, such as; Adios, Good Time, and Dale Frost.

Many modern trotting lines in the Standardbred go back to "Peter The Great" via his sons; "Teter Volo" and "Peter Scott". Looking at Peter The Great's pedigree we see a strong presence of Hambletonian and Messenger.

Obviously the mares that these Stallions are bred to are of significant impact. Several of the power factors in selecting mares to breed to are found in "Lillian Wilkes", and the full sisters to Adios and By Guy. Other mares of note are Sigrid Volo, Widow Maggie, and Rose Scott.

Some physical characteristics that make the Standardbred a breed of it's own include the following. They tend to be more muscled and longer bodied than Thoroughbreds. They are also a bit heavier and have solid legs and powerful shoulders and hind quarters.

John Bradley has assembled an excellent reference work for breeders of trotters, consisting of a fact-filled assortment of great Sires of the last 50 years. His book is an outstanding contribution to accuracy as a handicapping work on Stallions which can produce winners. Bradley has also produced an extensive international research in his Bradley Standardbred Agency.

We will next take a look at Quarter Horse Racing Bloodlines.

Saddle Fitting Your Horse - Where To Fit a Western Saddle

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 09:41:00 +0000

It is a very important where you position your saddle on your horse. A proper saddle fitting begins with understanding your horse's anatomy. It is helpful to find and study a chart in order to know where the horse's shoulder blades are located. The shoulder blade is also referred to as the scapula.

The saddle bars should always be positioned behind the scapula. If the saddle is placed on the scapula bone, it will restrict freedom of movement.

If the saddle is too tight at the withers, you will need a wider gullet; the gullet is the arched area in the front of the saddle. If the gullet is too wide, it will sit down on your horse's withers, this also will create a lot of discomfort to your horse. The width of the gullet is very important.

The skirt of the saddle should lay flat and not rub the hip area, you should be able to slide your hand under the skirt with ease. If you have a short backed horse, an Arabian or gaited horse, you will more than likely need a round skirted saddle.

You will need to continually recheck the fit of the saddle as your horse's muscle structure changes; gains or losses weight. Your old saddle may not fit your new horse.

If you think the saddle fits your horse; saddle your horse using a saddle pad with a proper fitting girth and a familiar bridle. Ride your horse long enough for it to sweat. Be sure to walk, jog and canter both directions. Ask your horse to side step, back up and turn on the forehand. Pay attention to your horse's attitude. Is your horse wringing its tail, are the ears flat back, is there a lot of head tossing, does your horse not want to go forward? This could indicate that the saddle does not fit your horse.

Check before you remove the saddle, did your saddle stay in the proper position? Take a look at the sweat pattern, is it even or are there dry spots? The sweat pattern should be even and the hair of the horse should be smooth laying in the same direction. You may need to try several saddles before you find the perfect fit.

A properly positioned and fitted saddle will be the beginning of a great ride. Now that the horse is happy with the saddle, are you? In the next article, we will discuss how to fit the saddle to the rider.

Kathy Yaskin, http://BestBuyHorseTack.com/ is your premier horse tack connection. We work very hard to bring you quality products at the best price. We offer products that we would use on our own horses, so you can have complete confidence in your every purchase.

Having been a professional horse trainer, clinician and riding instructor for the past 23 year, I understand your needs and have extensive knowledge of equestrian tack, training and horse behavior.

You can find more articles at http://BestBuyHorseTack.com/. While you are there be sure to subscribe to our monthly Newsletter and Blog Forum.

How to Fit Your Horse With a Turnout Rug

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 22:36:00 +0000

It is important to ensure that your turnout rug fits correctly and all fittings are done up properly. A poorly fitting rug can cause a host of issues, from the rug slipping and causing pressure points or rubs, to the horse's legs becoming tangled in surcingles or leg straps. This can be extremely dangerous for the horse and is likely to cause damage to the rug.

If you are purchasing your rug, the measurement for a turnout rug is taken from the centre of the horse's chest, in a straight line along the horse's side to a point level with the top of the horse's tail. Turnout rugs are sold based on measurements in feet and inches, which increase in 3" increments. So you will need to convert the length measurement into feet and inches in order to purchase a rug of the correct size.

When purchasing a rug bear in mind the build of your horse; if he is chunky, he will need a deeper rug, whereas a finer horse will require a more neatly cut rug.

The front of the rug should sit approximately 3" ahead of the withers, and never on the withers, as this sensitive area will be unable to withstand a heavy rug putting pressure on it. Remember that turnout rugs will weigh even more once wet or muddy.

Ideally the chest straps should be done up on approximately the middle hole, allowing the fabric beneath the straps to overlap and hence ensuring that the whole chest is covered. However this may vary depending on your horse's size and shape.

The rug should sit snuggly around the chest; you should be able to comfortably fit a hands width between the front of the rug and the horse's chest. This allows the horse room for movement and prevents chafing or drooping often seen in rugs which are too small or too large. These common problems can reduce warmth and protection, and can also put pressure on the horse's withers.

The shoulder dart or gusset should sit at the point of the horse's shoulder and the side of the rug should wrap around the horse's stomach. If the rug hangs down too low at the stomach; it is too deep, whilst if the horse's stomach is exposed; it is too short.

Attach the cross surcingles by passing them under the horse's belly. As the name suggests, they need to be crossed. This means that the more forward surcingle needs to be attached to the more rear attachment on the left hand side of the horse. The opposite is true of the more rear surcingle, which needs to be done up to the front of the rug. There should be a hand's width of space between the straps and the horse's belly. This will ensure that they do not cause discomfort to the horse, nor will they risk getting caught up in the horse's legs.

To attach the leg straps, pass the left-hand leg strap between the horse's legs and clip it onto the d-ring on the left hand side. Then take the opposite, right-hand leg strap and thread this through the left-hand leg strap and around the horse's offside leg before clipping it to the right-hand side d-ring. As with the cross surcingles, there should be a hand's width between the leg straps and the horse's thighs, again to prevent discomfort or potential danger.

If the turnout rug features a filet string, ensure that you pull the horse's tail over it, so that the filet string sits below the tail, helping to keep the rug in place.

The tail flap of the turnout rug should begin at the top of the horse's tail. If the rug extends beyond the horse's tail then it is too long and could pull backwards uncomfortably on the horse's withers. If the rug finishes before the horse's tail, it is too short and will not offer full protection to the horse.

You can find a wide range of turnout rugs available in all sizes and at great prices at Equestrian Clearance

A Guide To Dressage Horse Breeding

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:41:00 +0000

If everything comes together, dressage horse breeding can be the perfect way to find that next competition superstar. It can be significantly cheaper than purchasing an animal that has had any event exposure, or even an older youngster that is ready to be backed and ridden on. There is also a special kind of satisfaction that comes from producing a homebred foal. If it goes on to achieve any accolades, the success is often so much the sweeter.

Despite the benefits of dressage horse breeding, it can be something of a minefield and there is an awful lot that can go wrong. For example, the foal might not be suitable for what the breeder wants to do with it, it might have weaknesses or conformation faults. However, if horse breeding is something that the mare owner is committed to doing and they are knowledgeable enough horse people to take on the responsibility, there are a number of things that can be done to increase the chances of the mare having a quality foal.

The broodmare is hugely important and what she brings to the foal should never be underestimated. Only a sound mare with good conformation and a stable temperament should be used. Ideally, she will have shown talent under saddle, but even a mare that has not excelled in this area should at least have a pedigree that shows known performance bloodlines. Top notch conformation and performance ability are obviously closely aligned, as a horse or pony must usually be well put together in order to have the necessary agility to perform well. As far as breed goes, the best dressage horses do tend to be warmbloods although if an equine has good basic paces it certainly has the potential to hold its own, whatever breed it is.

Once it has been decided that the mare is suitable to breed from, it is time to find the second half of the horse breeding equation, the stallion. Firstly, make sure as much as possible is known about the mare. What are her bloodlines, performance history, behaviour and conformation? Which of her weaker points could be improved with the right stallion? Once the breeder has an understanding of the specific qualities needed from the stallion, it will be easier to make a shortlist of potential studs.

Budget is another factor that will have to be taken into consideration. Stud fees can vary enormously and reflect a number of things including value of the stallion, his past winnings, value and success of his offspring and the facilities offered by the stud itself. It's important to calculate what can be afforded and to stick to that amount. Young upcoming studs will often be much better value for money than an established international Grand Prix dressage stallion, so these can be a very good bet if the mare owner has a good eye for future potential and conformation etc.

Given the right combination of mare and stallion, plus a large dose of good luck, producing a dressage foal can be hugely rewarding. The whole process can be emotionally draining and a lot of hard work but many involved in dressage horse breeders would stress that when everything turns out as it should, the results make everything more than worthwhile.

Equine Trader was launched in 2007 and has quickly developed into a leading online equestrian resource. It appeals to New Zealanders who own, ride and are passionate about horses. However, the hugely popular website also attracts equine lovers from throughout the rest of the world. Membership is free and allows registered users to buy and sell through classifieds and auctions at no charge, browse over 400 horses and ponies for sale and participate in a wide range of exciting competitions and games.

The site also boasts an extensive online stallion stud book, a comprehensive equestrian product and services directory, news articles, event listings and an ongoing educational TV series, featuring top Kiwi horse riders, trainers and competitors.

Equine Trader is NZ's most comprehensive online equestrian directory. Search our horse breeding directory listings here.

Arabian Horses ,Arab Horses Picures,pictures of arabian horses

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 14:36:00 +0000

The Arabian or Arab horse (Arabic: الحصان العربي ‎ [ ħisˤaːn ʕarabiː], DMG ḥiṣān ʿarabī) is a breed of horse that originated on the Arabian Peninsula. With a distinctive head shape and high tail carriage, the Arabian is one of the most easily recognizable horse breeds in the world. It is also one of the oldest breeds, with archaeological evidence of horses that resemble modern Arabians dating back 4,500 years. Throughout history, Arabian horses spread around the world by both war and trade, used to improve other breeds by adding speed, refinement, endurance, and strong bone. Today, Arabian bloodlines are found in almost every modern breed of riding horse.
The Arabian developed in a desert climate and was prized by the nomadic Bedouin people, often being brought inside the family tent for shelter and protection from theft. Selective breeding for traits including an ability to form a cooperative relationship with humans created a horse breed that is good-natured, quick to learn, and willing to please. The Arabian also developed the high spirit and alertness needed in a horse used for raiding and war. This combination of willingness and sensitivity requires modern Arabian horse owners to handle their horses with competence and respect.

Tips On Coming To See The Melbourne Cup

noreply@blogger.com (Crazy 4 Pets) — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:55:00 +0000

Do you have any idea how many people are in attendance of the Melbourne Cup each year? An astonishing 100,000 plus people are at the track for the Melbourne Cup and you know that a lot of these people are from out of town or from around the world. This is exactly why you need some good tips on coming to see the race because without some great tips you will not be able to experience the race in the way that it is meant to be seen.

Tips When Coming To Melbourne

Book Your Hotel Early - The first tip that I have for you is to simply book your hotel early. With over 100,000 people in attendance there are bound to be some full hotels and if you don't have one then you will find it rather difficult to come to the city of Melbourne for the race. My recommendation would be to book your hotel at least 2 months in advance, if not sooner.

Get There A Few Days Early - Something else you need to do is make sure you are in Melbourne with a few days to space. The reason why you should do this is because there are a lot of things going on before the big race that you might want to take part in.

Go In A Group - What I highly recommend is that you don't go to the Melbourne Cup alone, it is more fun to go in a large group. The nice thing about going in a large group is that you can sometimes get group rates on things around the city and sometimes at the track.

Have Your Betting Money Handy - This is probably one of the most fun things to do while at the track, betting. If you want to bet you need to have your money ready because there will be so much betting going on that you will want to get in on the action. Trust me, if you are not betting on the race then you are not taking part in it as well as you should be.

The last thing that you need to know when coming to see the Melbourne Cup is to simply get to the track with enough time to place your bets and get to your seat. With everything that goes on before race time you will want to get there early enough that you do not miss a single thing.

There are a lot of activities and gatherings around the facility and if you want to experience everything that the Melbourne Cup has to offer you need to get their on time.