Imagine if you could replace your daily car commute with a sweat-free ride on a pedal assist e-bike. Or, if your bike trip to the grocery store was made easier by a pedal assist with racks and the ability to safely haul your biggest shopping load. Now, with local and statewide rebate programs, buying an e-bike is a breeze.

Here are a few key programs geared to get you out of the car and onto the paths with a new pedal assist bike purchased at Cripple Creek Bike and Backcountry.

Holy Cross Energy

Glenwood Springs, Pitkin, Eagle, Garfield, Mesa, and Gunnison Counties

Holy Cross Energy is offering a $50 rebate when you purchase up to two e-bikes per household for running errands or commuting to work. From the website:

Head to a local retailer or order your E-Bike online. Two e-bikes per household limit. To qualify for the program, you must be an active HE member in good standing, and intend to use the E-Bike to offset vehicle miles. To get your E-Bike rebate, complete the online rebate application.

Additional $200 rebate may be available for Holy Cross Energy members living in the Edwards Metro District.

Click here for more information and to apply today!

City of Denver

Denver residents who make less than the area median income may be eligible for a $450 city voucher to put toward the purchase of an e-bike. Vouchers are valid only for in-store purchases of fully built bikes and do not cover sales tax. 

Apply for a voucher on the City of Denver website.

State of Colorado

Colorado Energy Office

Colorado residents can receive a $225 discount on the purchase of a new e-bike at a participating retailer (like Cripple Creek!). Just mention the Colorado E-Bike Tax Credit at checkout for your discount.

Stay updated on the CEO website.

Tires: you can’t ride a bike without them and a bike rides much better when you’ve got the right ones. Bike tires are literally where the rubber meets the road (and dirt, and gravel) and can be the deciding factor in whether your ride is all-time or Type 3 fun. These often overlooked bike components deliver an incredible range of performance across wet, dry, muddy, sandy, and slippery conditions and come in a variety of widths, circumferences, rubber thicknesses and designs.

But what makes one tire better than another? And with so many tread patterns, rubber compounds, widths and diameters, how do you know which tires to choose?

Here’s a breakdown of bike tires, from the fastest rolling road race rubber to the most durable, rock-deflecting downhill mountain bike tire.

First, a primer on tires

Regardless of whether you’re rolling on skinny 700x26c slicks or beefy 27.5”x2.6” trail chargers, all tires have the same essential components.

Tire Bead

The bead is the part of the tire that makes direct contact with the rim of your wheel. There are two kinds of beads: foldable and rigid. Foldable beads use flexible synthetic materials like aramid or Kevlar, are lightweight and come in at a higher price point. Rigid beads have a steel wire and are often lower in cost but are heavier. These are often seen on downhill tires to prevent burping and flats.

Tire Casing and TPI

The tire casing is the main make-up and structure of a tire. It’s generally composed of one or more layers of a woven material (referred to as ‘plys’) measured in threads-per-inch or TPI. These plys are covered in rubber to give the tire its ability to stay inflated and resist punctures.

Lower TPI (60tpi) tires feature a larger gauge thread that provides good puncture protection because of its thickness, but will roll more slowly.

Higher TPI (>120tpi) tires feature higher thread counts, making a more flexible and supple tire that can smoothly roll over roots and rocks. Higher TPI tires generally have good rolling resistance but often with reduced puncture protection.

Sub Tread (Puncture Protection)

Some tire manufacturers also offer a sub tread that is designed to give added protection (Maxxis examples - Snakeskin, Exo, Exo+, doubledown). This added protection can give you a piece of mind, but can slow the rolling speed. It’s a balance between ride quality and protection.

Tire Compound

Tire compounds have a significant impact on handling. Harder rubber formulas can have greater resistance to wear, but can also reduce traction. Softer compounds maximize traction but are prone to faster wear. Most companies are using a blend of compounds throughout their tires to get the performance they want.

For instance, Maxxis rates their tires as such:

Soft - Maxxgrip

Medium - Maxxterra

Hard - Maxxspeed

Tubeless versus clincher

Thanks to the advent of tubeless systems and sealant, tubeless tires are becoming mainstream on mountain bikes, gravel bikes and increasingly road bikes. Tubeless tires have a reinforced bead to help them ‘seat’ on the rim. Sealant helps to secure that seat, and fills in small punctures or tears in the tire that you may incur during the course of a ride. You can run tubeless tires at a lower tire pressure because there’s a decreased probability of pinch flats common in tube systems. This actually helps with tire performance on mountain bikes because the lower tire pressure translates to better grip and cornering.

Traditional clincher systems are still available and rely on the standard tube/tire combo. Clincher tires need to be run at a higher PSI to reduce the chance of pinch flats, but are easier to change in the field than a tubeless tire that gets unseated or has too large of a puncture for the sealant to fill.

Tire diameter and width

Before you choose a tire, you’ll need to know the diameter of your wheels. Mountain bike wheels are 26”, 27.5” or 29”, gravel and road bike wheels are 700c (though some gravel bikes will run a 27.5” (or 650b) knobby mountain bike tire).

Mountain bike tires range from 1.8” to around 2.6”, with “plus” 27.5+ tires ranging 2.8” to 3.0”, and fat bike tires up to 5” wide. How wide a tire you can run depends on the width of your rim and the tire clearance allowed by the frame. Not sure what your setup allows? Bring your bike into BBS to find out.

Gravel bikes on 700c wheels can range from 32mm to 45mm, also dependent on rim width and frame clearance.

Road bike tire widths range from the classic 25c to the modern 32c. Road tires traditionally ran narrower, but thanks to the adoption of tubeless setups, road tires are more commonly 28c, 30c, and 32c.

Across the board, wider tires have better grip and stability, but a narrower tire will roll faster and require more attention in fast cornering or slick conditions. Wider tires often weigh more, though this depends on the construction.

Tread pattern 101

Most bike tires have tread patterns designed to excel in certain kinds of conditions. How well each tire performs is somewhat dependent on air pressure but in general, here’s what to expect from different tread patterns.

Tight knobs and uniform tread

These tires are good for loose terrain and XC riding, are lightweight, and have low rolling resistance, meaning they roll faster. They might not grip as well when braking or cornering but are ideal for less technical conditions or if you want to save weight.

Taller knobs with bigger channels in between

Great for mud or trail riding, added traction on steeper, technical terrain, better grip for braking but have added rolling resistance. They are also typically heavier because of the casing (more durable and less flexible so you corner and hit things more aggressively).

Fast XC Tires - Short knobs in the middle with slightly bigger knobs on the sides for cornering. Tighter packed knobs are better for hard-packed and loose conditions because there are more knobs biting into the ground at once so you don’t slide as much. Knobs are uniform. If you’re shopping for Maxxis tires, this includes the Ikon, Aspen, Rekon Race.

Trail and Enduro Tires - Tall knobs, less uniform patterns, and wider channels. The knobs are typically not uniform like they would be on an XC tire and will instead be larger and more rectangular for better grip. There is a range between a DH style tire and an enduro tire. An enduro tire might have more intermediate knobs as you get to the outside of the tire and possibly smaller knobs in the center to roll faster because you still have to climb. For Maxxis tires, these include Rekon, Ardent, Dissector on the XC/trail end and Assegai, Minion DHF, Minion DHR II, Aggressor on the downhill/enduro end.

Gravel tires - The same principles apply to gravel tires as mountain bike. The tires that look more like a road tire will be intended for faster rolling and less traction. The tires that have more aggressive knobs will handle chunky gravel and singletrack. Fast gravel tires include Maxxis Rambler, Refuse, and Panaracer Gravel King. Grippier tires include the Terravail Cannonball.

Road tires - Road rubber is either slick or has shallow tread. Slick tires have the best traction when riding on pavement alone because they have the greatest surface area contact with the road. Some tires, like the fan-favorite Continental Grand Prix 5000, use shallow interspersed grip on the sidewalls for cornering.

The exceptional variety of tires available for all disciplines means that there’s something for every riding style, but it can also make tires harder to choose. Reach out to us if you aren’t sure which direction to go. Our expert staff will make sure you have the most suitable rubber for every endeavor.

The good news is it's a great time to buy a gravel bike. Thanks to the genre's ballooning popularity in recent years, nearly every bike brand has at least one (if not three!) gravel bikes on offer and the specializations range from aero gravel racing, to long two-track explorations, to multi-day bike packing. With so many options, how do you know which bike to choose?

We put together a handy guide to take the guess work out of gravel bikes and to make sure your next (or first) gravel bike is the right one for you.

First: the difference between gravel bikes and road bikes

Before we launch into it, here's a brief primer on the basic differences between a road bike and a gravel bike because if you've ridden a road bike on gravel, you know you don't necessarily need a special bike to get off the pavement.

Gravel-specific bikes are optimized for off-asphalt travel in three distinct ways: they have wider tire clearance, more relaxed geometry and stable handling, and can accommodate gravel specific components like rack mounts, dropper posts, suspension forks, and special steatposts that smooth out bumpy sections, also known as compliance. They also tend to be geared lower for steep climbs and maintaining traction on loose surfaces.

Now that that's out of the way, here's what to consider when choosing your gravel bike.

Step 1: Where & how will you ride the most

The spectrum of modern gravel bikes generally goes from more aero, efficient road bike inspired rides to more maneuverable, stable, and versatile mountain bike-style rides. Which end of the spectrum is right for you depends on where you intend to ride the most.

Let's say you like big-mile days with approximately equal amounts of gravel and pavement. In that case, the ultra-lightweight Specialized Crux with its cyclocross legacy will be a good choice. Maybe you want to do exploratory rides on two track or fire roads, in which case an all-arounder like the Specialized Diverge or Giant Revolt would be a good fit. And if you plan to toe start lines at big events like the Unbound or Steamboat GRVL, consider something on the racier but still versatile like the Cervelo Aspero, Pinarello Grevil, Crux, or Open Upper.

Step 2: Consider the features you need

Geometry

Geometry is key factor that sets gravel bikes apart from road bikes. This translates to slacker head angles, lower bottom brackets, and shorter chainstays that provide a stable, comfortable ride. They also tend to put the rider in a slightly more upright position compared to road bikes, which helps with maneuvering in technical terrain, and with overall comfort on long outings with varying conditions.

Compliance

Compliance softens bumps and reduces the rattling sensation that comes with bumpy surfaces. Bike manufacturers add compliance into gravel bikes in several ways like Giant's D-Fuse seatpost that dampens vibrations, Specialized's FutureShock that adds 20mm of front suspension, and Santa Cruz's rear triangle compliance that is engineered into the Stigmata frame. How much compliance you need in a gravel bike depends on where you want to ride most and how you want to use the bike (racing versus bike packing).

Components & features

To meet the challenge of steep off-road climbs, loose tracks, and mud, gravel bikes tend to come with lower gearing than road bikes. This equals greater versatility in the kind of terrain the bike is capable of tackling. Many gravel bikes offer the option to run a 1x or 2x drivetrain. Both can deliver a similar range, but 2x offer smaller steps between gears which can be helpful if you're carrying weight over undulating terrain.

Additionally, most gravel bikes come with drop bars, but unlike the standard aero road drops, gravel bars are flared in the drop to give you a stable platform when descending bumpy surfaces. If you prefer a flat bar, that can be an option for an even more upright stance and handling.

Gravel bikes also offer an enormous amount of customization including the ability to run a short gravel fork which provides up to 60mm of bump soaking suspension. Many, including the Santa Cruz Stigmata are dropper post compatible to make technical sections more manageable.

Lastly, if you have bike packing on the horizon, you can choose a bike with frame mounts to carry your supplies. Bikes like the Liv Devote can carry up to three water bottles to get you through backroad sections with limited access to water.

Frame materials

As with road and mountain bikes, gravel bikes come in a variety of frame materials with the most common being carbon and aluminum. Carbon offers a higher stiffness to weight ratio but is more expensive, while aluminum is heavier but adds a dose of durability. For the lightest, highest performing bikes, go for carbon. If weight and performance are less important or you have a tight budget, there are plenty of good aluminum options. Titanium is also a favorite among gravel riders thanks to its stiff, lightweight yet compliant nature but it does increase the price tag.

Tire size

The range of tire size compatibility is where gravel bikes shine. Many can run up to a 47mm by 700c tire, and have the option to run a 650b wheel with up to a 2.1" mountain bike tire. That's a massive range that should cover just about every conceivable surface you will encounter on a gravel bike!

Not only do wider tires increase stability, traction, and capability on soft or muddy surfaces, they also help to provide that compliance mentioned earlier. An added bonus: if you want your gravel bike to double as a road bike, you can have a separate wheelset with smooth, narrow tires for your tarmac days that you swap with grippier, wider gravel tires for your adventure rides. With a gravel bike, you really can have two bikes in one.

Step 3: Choose your bike

Now for the fun part. Once you've outlined the kind of riding you intend to do with your gravel bike and the features you want it to have, it's time to pick a bike. Check out our featured gravel bikes, fill out our Dream Bike form or stop in any Basalt Bike and Ski location so we can help you find the perfect gravel bike for all of your off-pavement adventures.

We are at a pinnacle of mountain biking tech and design. With more brands, builds, and types of mountain bikes available than ever before, there is truly a bike (or 3!) for everyone. New categories are even emerging that blend ride qualities (hello, Downcountry), expanding the versatility of bike quiver slots to new heights. And, we haven’t even started talking about eMTBs.

All of this variety and category blending can make the bike buyer’s head spin. Fear not, our guide to mountain bike quiver slots is here to break down the choices so you can find your perfect bike.

A brief primer on how to choose a bike

The first and most important thing to consider when buying a bike is where you are going to ride it. Rowdy lift-served downhill laps ask something totally different from a bike than endurance cross country racing, for instance. The terrain (chunky desert riding vs. smooth single track berms), and the kind of riding (Enduro race vs. casual weekend rides) are the foundation of your quiver slot choice. There is some gray area here (more on that in a bit), but for the most part, determining where and how is the right place to start.

Once you nail down the category of bike, you can start considering whether to go for a carbon or aluminum frame, what level of components you need, and what fits into your budget. We’ll save that for another post, but for now, here’s a breakdown of modern bike categories, along with a few of our favorite whips in each one.

Cross Country

For the longest days that cover the biggest miles over rolling terrain, nothing beats a lightweight Cross Country rig. With their minimalist frames, short travel (on average 100mm front and rear, or hardtail), steep headtube angles and long chainstays, Cross Country bikes are built for maximum endurance and efficiency. For toeing XC start lines, or embarking on big days where fast pedaling is priority, they are the ideal choice.

The Specialized W-Works Epic is a short-travel Cross Country bike that prioritizes climbing efficiency and speed above all else.

While frame design and suspension development has allowed for incredibly light full suspension cross country rigs like the Specialized Epic, hardtails remain the top choice for XC races like the Leadville 100 where uncompromised pedaling efficiency takes precedence over downhill comfort.

Available in carbon and aluminum frames, Cross Country bikes can weigh anywhere from an airy 21lbs (or sub- 20lbs on hardtails like the Pivot LES) to a more substantial 28lbs on lower end buildkits. Regardless of frame and components, by choosing an XC bike, you’re prioritizing pedaling efficiency and speed over the playful downhill performance you’d get from a bigger-travel bike.

Our favorite XC bikes

Santa Cruz Blur

Specialized Epic

Pivot LES

Downcountry

It was only five years ago that cycling opinion writers were penning pieces with titles like “What the heck is a down-country bike?” In short time, it seems the industry and a whole bunch of freshly converted fans have figured it out.

Downcountry rigs like the SB120 combine the efficiency of a traditional Cross Country bike with the downhill capabilities of a trail bike.

For riders who seek the pedaling efficiency of a traditional XC bike but also want to rally on the descents, the burgeoning category of Downcountry bikes answers the call. Combining the lightweight, lower travel suspension of Cross Country bikes with the slacker headtubes, longer wheelbase, and wider handlebars and tires of trail bikes, Downcountry rigs hit the sweet spot for maximum efficiency with a healthy dose of fun. Sporting an average 120mm-130mm travel in the front and 115-125mm in the rear, they are exceptionally capable climbers and descenders on every conceivable kind of terrain. Their shorter stems and wider handlebars and wheels give them playful agility and stability.

Like the design of the bike suggests, Downcountry bikes are for efficiency-oriented riders who want a little bit of everything. A Santa Cruz Blur will be just as at home in a full gas race like Colorado’s legendary Firecracker 50 one weekend, as it will on your weekly shop ride on the local trail network. Would you want to mash around desert red rock on a Downcountry bike? Maybe not, but the main point here is that with a little more attentiveness than is required of a trail or enduro bike, you certainly could. For the rider who doesn’t want to sacrifice fun for efficiency on those long days in the saddle, Downcountry bikes are a good fit.

Our favorite Downcountry bikes

Specialized Epic Evo

Yeti SB120

Pivot Mach 4 SL

Trail

If versatility is your jam––cruising your local flow trails during the week and hitting technical climbs and descents on the weekends––the broad Trail category is sure to satisfy. With front and rear travel that averages 120mm–150mm, relaxed geometry, and options for fast rolling 29” wheels or more maneuverable 27.5” wheels, Trail rigs are designed for riders who want to climb and descend any kind of terrain the mountains throw their way, and to have a good time doing it.

The Pivot Trail 429 is a classic trail bike with mid-range travel and a slightly more upright geometry that balances efficient climbing with confident, playful descending.

Trail bikes prioritize the enjoyment of the ride. They’re designed to climb energetically, maneuver aptly through technical sections, and provide confident stability when things get steep and rocky. In general, trail bikes feature more relaxed geometries than their XC brethren, with slacker head tubes for stability downhills, shorter chainstays for maneuverability, and steeper seat tube angles to position the rider directly over the bottom bracket for comfortable and efficient pedaling. The Trail bike category averages 30lbs in weight, leaning away from climbing efficiency prized by lighter XC and Downcountry bikes, but tipping toward versatility and fun.

Since this is such a broad category, there’s overlap between shorter-travel Trail bikes and Downcountry rides, as well as bigger travel Trail bikes and Enduro rigs. In general, less travel bikes like the Pivot 429 Trail and Yeti SB130 will offer more efficient climbing, and bigger travel bikes like the Specialized Enduro and Santa Cruz Bronson will take big downhill hits with a little more panache. Whether you choose a Trail bike in the 130mm–140mm range or one in the 140–150mm range, rest assured you’re getting a bike made to maximize fun no matter what the trail throws at it.

Our favorite Trail bikes

Pivot Trail 429

Yeti SB140

Specialized Stumpjumper

Juliana Furtado

Enduro

When the uphill climb is more of a necessary step to get to that steep, gnarly descent with mandatory drops and air time, Enduro bikes fit the bill. With slacked headtube angles and big suspension (150mm–180mm front and rear), Enduro bikes are designed for major shock absorption and stability at high speeds, like in Enduro races where pedaling is required but podiums are reached through speed and agility on the descents. Most Enduro bikes are also available in 29”, 27.5”, or mixed (mullet) 29” and 27.5” combos, allowing you to prioritize efficient rollover, maneuverability, or the best of both.

The Transition Spire is a modern Enduro bike with big travel and relaxed, slack geometry to handle big hits and feel stable at high speeds but can pedal uphill decently well.

While Enduro bikes can pedal uphill, their geometry prioritizes downhill prowess. They generally have a longer wheelbase, bigger reach, and slacked out front end than Trail bikes which allows them to stay stable and planted at high speeds on rough and steep terrain. This, coupled with their lofty travel, makes them slightly less maneuverable than Trail and XC bikes, but also lets the rider point and go, knowing the bike is designed to handle the rough stuff. Increasingly, Enduro bikes feature ‘mullet’ mixed wheelsets that put the fast, rollover characteristics of 29” in the front and the snappy maneuverable 27.5” wheel on the back for a playful, hard charging trail machine.

Enduro bikes meet their full potential in the Enduro race format, but they’re also ideal for riders who just really want to have fun on the descents.

Our favorite Enduro bikes

Santa Cruz Megatower

Yeti SB160

Transition Spire

eMTB

E-Mountain Bikes (eMTB) are the fastest growing segment in the mountain bike world. With good reason, the battery-powered, motorized-assist of an eMTB makes long, arduous climbs a breeze and lets your once-a-year epic become a weekly occurrence with no sacrifice to the agility and capability you expect from a non-assisted mountain bike. The ever-expanding eMTB options mean you have a choice of riding style, battery range, travel and geometry, as well as removable batteries to turn your eMTB back to a traditional rig.

The Santa Cruz Heckler eMTB offers outstanding downhill capabilities and a motorized boost that makes climbs and long rides a breeze.

While there are a variety of eMTB ride styles, the area seeing the biggest growth is in the Trail/Enduro/Downhill category. Bikes like the Specialized Levo, Santa Cruz Heckler, and Yeti SB160E offer exceptional downhill performance with a mechanical boost for climbing and traversing long distances. EMTBs solve the pedaling efficiency that’s missing from most Enduro and Downhill bikes for a new category of bike that is truly limitless.

Our favorite E-Mountain bikes

Specialized Levo 4

Pivot Shuttle SL

Transition Relay

Santa Cruz Heckler

Downhill

For some riders, the only direction to ride a bike is down. Ideal for lift-assisted descending, Downhill bikes feature dual crown forks with massive travel (170mm–250mm front, 180mm–200mm rear), slack geometry, low center of gravity, and beefy tires for maximum shock absorption and stability for high-speed, high-gravity plunges over jumps, rocks, roots, and the roughest terrain out there.

Durable components are key in Downhill bikes. Most employ coil shocks or downhill-specific air shocks that can handle repeated hits without heating up. Dual crown forks, typically seen on dirtbikes, are built with huge capacities for bump absorption and rebound. And powerful 4-piston brakes are essential to scrub speed when things get too rowdy. Because of their unique geometry, Downhill bikes aren’t the sort you want to pedal uphill, but for most Downhill riders, that’s not where the fun is anyway.

Printable Pre-ride Checklist

So you picked up a new mountain bike from Cripple Creek Bike & Backcountry or brought an old bike in for a full factory overhaul. We wish we could tell you to set it and forget it and ride it hard until your next service is due. However, bikes are complicated machines with lots of moving parts, used on rough trails and roads that can rattle even the tightest bolt out of a frame.

It used to take mistake after mistake to learn what to do and what to check before a ride. Maybe your rear axle loosened, and you didn't realize it until the bike was shifting poorly because the wheel was at an angle. Possibly, it was a suspension pivot that came so loose it wore against your frame, causing a creak every time the bike flexed. Sound unlikely? It has happened to us! If you know what to watch for, you can catch these issues before damaging your bike or causing a crash. Our lead mechanics have put together a checklist to set you up for your next successful ride.

Part 1: Wheel, Tires, Thru-Axles

Wheels and tires are the only part of your bike that have direct contact with the terrain you ride on, so it’s safe to say they’re some of the more important parts of the bike. When it comes to your wheels, here’s what to check:

Tire pressure

Check your tire pressure before every ride! Tubeless systems are by no means perfect and losing a few pounds of pressure in between rides is to be expected. The same can be said for tubes. Riding with too little tire pressure can result in rollover flats, burping, or pinch flats, and riding with too much pressure can decrease traction efficiency.

Spoke tension

Go through the spokes on each side of the wheel in pairs by lightly squeezing with your hands. They may vary a bit in tension but what you’re really looking for is any spoke that’s abnormally loose or broken. It will be obvious if a spoke is super loose or broken. If you find one, don’t ride on your wheel; it could damage your rims. Bring it into a shop as soon as possible, so you can be back on your bike in no time.

Thru-Axle/Quick Release

Your thru-axle or quick release attachment is the part that connects the hubs of your wheels to the frame or fork. Check that it is tight before each ride.Thru-axles may be lever actuated, or you will need a 5,6 or 8mm hex key to turn it.

Rotor Bolts

Your rotor bolts are what connect your rotor disc to your hub. Check that they are snug, usually with a T25 bit.

Sealant

At least once a season, check your sealant levels and refresh(directions for number of ounces per tire size are listed on sealant bottles). Sealant tends to dry up over time and the less there is in a tire, the less it can do its job.

Part 2: Drivetrain

Cranks/Pedals

To check your cranks, move them back and forth and side to side. If you notice a lot of play, especially side to side, bring them into a shop. Crank systems vary and are often more complicated than just tightening a bolt. Also, check that your pedals are tight. Most modern pedals are a 6 or 8mm hex key on the opposite side of the crank from the platform of the pedal.

Chain

Always make sure your chain is lubricated. If you are in a dry area, use a dry lubricant, which will need to be applied before each ride or every other ride. If you are in a wetter area, use a wet lube, which will last roughly 5 rides. When in doubt, if the chain feels dry, lube it.

Derailleur Hanger

Your derailleur hanger is the piece that attaches your derailleur to your frame. It should be relatively straight and in line with the cogs. A bent derailleur hanger will affect your shifting and most likely be the culprit if you have issues shifting.

Clutch

If you have a clutched derailleur, which most modern systems do, make sure the clutch is active (switched in the ‘on’ positions) before riding. If you haven’t taken the rear wheel off recently, it is likely already active.

Derailleur Mounting Bolt

Your derailleur mounting bolt is the bolt that goes through your derailleur and threads into the hanger. Make sure it’s tight. A loose bolt will affect shifting and due to the constant pressure being applied to it, it has the propensity to loosen up.

Part 3: Frame

On a full suspension bike, your frame and bars have a lot of moving parts. Less so on a hardtail, but they still need to be checked regularly.

Shifter/Brake Lever mounting bolts

Your shifter and brake levers are attached to your bars by mounting hardware with pinch bolts. These bolts have a lower torque spec (usually about 6Nm); get them snug so there is no movement, but try not to over tighten them especially on carbon fiber bars, which can crack under too much pressure.

Be extra careful with dropper lever bolts; the torque spec for them is especially low (about 2.5Nm). These bolts are typically 4, or 5 mm hex heads, or T25s and dropper lever mounting bolts tend to be even smaller at around 2-3mm hex heads. A good rule of thumb: how tight a bolt needs to be is generally proportional to the size of the bolt head.

Stem Faceplate Bolts

The faceplate of your stem is what holds your bars in place. If they’re loose, it can cause your bars to shift under force. These are also usually a lower torque spec, so be careful of overtightening, especially if you have carbon bars. These are usually 3-5mm hex heads, or T25s.

Stem Steertube Bolts

These bolts keep your stem attached to the fork through the steertube. The steer tube is very strong so you can generally tighten these as much as you want. These are usually 4mm hex bolts.

Linkage Bolts

These bolts connect your rear shock and the front and rear triangle of the bike. The constant activity of your suspension makes these particularly prone to loosening up over time. The majority of these bolts are and vary not only from brand to brand, but from model to model. Don’t lose them! They can be hard to replace. Check these bolts frequently to make sure they are nice and snug.

Caliper Mounting Bolts

These bolts connect your disc brake calipers to the frame and fork; if they fall out, it’s no more brakes for you. There are two bolts on each caliper located at the front and rear of the caliper. These have a pretty high torque rating, so snug them up.

Seatpost Clamp Bolt

This bolt holds your seat post in place, but over tightening can cause your dropper post to work incorrectly. Make sure it’s snug, but if your dropper is sticky on the way down or up, relieving some pressure on the bolt could be an easy fix and usually requires a 4mm or 5mm hex.

Saddle Mounting Bolts

These bolts (there are generally two) hold your saddle onto your seatpost and control the lean of your seat, allowing you to adjust the angle of your seat post by tightening one bolt and loosening the other. These bolts can be snugged as tight as you want to prevent your saddle from moving around, usually with a 4mm, 5mm, or T25.

Part 4: Suspension

There are a lot of adjustments you can make to dial your front and rear suspension. Here, we’re only going to focus on things to look out for to avoid using your fork or shock incorrectly.

Initial Setup

The first few rides you take on a new bike are the ideal time to set up your suspension. Most modern forks and shocks have an air chamber that will have air pressure proportional to your body weight and riding style. Many forks have a weight and psi chart printed on them, and many rear shocks have indicator levels on them. If your system has neither, check the manufacturer website for guidance.

Once you figure out what fork and shock pressure works for you, remember it, so you can periodically check to be sure it’s set to your preferences. Forks and shocks do not loose pressure frequently, so if you find yourself constantly having to add pressure to the system, take your bike to a service shop. There’s a good chance you have an issue with your fork or shock.

Sag Meter

This is typically a black rubber ring that lives on your stanchion and moves up and down it. To help you figure out what pressure works best for you, set your sag meter before every ride, especially on a new bike. It will also tell you if you need more or less pressure in the system. To do this, set your sag meter closest to the seal on your fork and shock so that as you travel through your suspension the ring will move up the stanchion.

At the end of your ride, check your sag meter. You want it to be near the end of the stroke without bottoming out. If it is all the way to the top of your fork, or bottom of your shock, that means that you were bottoming out your suspension, so you’ll need to add air pressure to the system. Conversely, if it is still near the middle of the stanchion, it means that you weren’t taking advantage of all of your suspension and you should let out some air. At the end of a hard ride your sag ring should look something like this.

Once your pressure is set to your preferences, you shouldn’t have to mess with your pressure much. Every so often, though, it’s a good idea to reset the sag meter before a ride, especially if you’re starting to ride more aggressively, or on more aggressive terrain.

Excessive oil

Check around your suspension seals every so often and make sure there is no excessive oil around the seals or on the stanchion. A little bit of oil is fairly normal, but a lot could mean that you need to change out your seals and oil.

Oil/Seal Change Intervals

Most major suspension companies recommend getting a service to change the seals and oil in your fork and shock every 50 hours of riding. This service will also help with breakaway force, and increase the performance of your suspension.

Recap and Printable Pre-Ride Checklist

Printable Pre-ride Checklist

There you have it! As you can see, 90% of the checks you should make are for bolts that tend to loosen over time. Ideally, it’s a good idea to go through this checklist before every ride, but realistically if you are doing most of this every three to five rides, you should be able to avoid major issues on the trail. Once you’re in the habit of running through your bike, this list should take no more than five minutes with the help of a multitool and bike pump. For anything you are tightening, just make sure they are snug and not moving, if you want an exact torque spec refer to your frame manufacturer.

If you have questions about your pre-ride checklist, or any other bike service needs, we’re always here at Basalt Bikes. To sum it up in a quick list, here’s the basic rundown:

• Tire pressure
• Spoke tension
• Thru-axle/Quick release check
• Rotor Bolt check
• Sealant
• Crank/pedal check
• Chain lube check
• Derailleur hanger check
• Clutch
• Derailleur mounting bolt check
• Shift/brake lever mounting bolt check
• Stem faceplate bolt check
• Stem steertube bolt check
• Linkage bolt check
• Caliper mounting bolt check
• Seatpost clamp bolt check
• Saddle mounting bolt check
• Suspension

This means it’s a great time to buy a value bike. The technology that goes into value bikes today would be considered high-end 20, 15, or possibly even 10 years ago. And all of the R&D that goes into perfecting high-end bikes trickles down into the entry level options, meaning you can score an exceptionally capable ride at a price you feel good about.

Here’s our list of favorite value bikes that go above and the price tag.

Mountain bikes

Specialized Rockhopper Elite Hardtail Mountain Bike –– $1,150 for 27.5” or 29” build kit

The Specialized Rockhopper Elite offers one big bang for your buck. Built on Specialized’s durable A1 Aluminum frame, this hardtail mountain bike features the size-specific (80, 90, or 100mm) RockShox Judy air sprung fork, trail-ready Shimano Deore 1x12 drivetrain, and responsive Shimano hydraulic disc brakes. Choose from 27.5” or 29” sturdy aluminum wheelset with Fasttrak Control tubeless-ready tires. $1,150 for the highest-end Rockhopper build is tough to beat.

Shop Specialized Rockhopper

Specialized Stumpjumper Alloy Full Suspension Mountain Bike –– $2800

Built with the same Rider First Engineered suspension design and geometry as its pricier carbon cousins, the Stumpjumper Comp Alloy offers incredible all-terrain performance and design legacy that punches well above its price tag. Specialized’s lightweight alloy frame is durable and responsive, delivering 130mm of rear suspension with the X-Fusion Pro R2 shock, and 140mm front travel with the RockShox 35 Silver fork. The SRAM SX 12-speed drivetrain delivers crisp shifting and a capable gear range, and the Tektro Gemini Comp brakes provide controlled braking in all conditions. The Tranz X dropper post and tough 29” alloy wheelset complete this ripping, trail-taming package.

Shop Specialized Stumpjumper

Liv Intrigue Full Suspension Mountain Bike –– $2600

Ladies, get ready to tackle every trail on your list with the Liv Intrigue full suspension mountain bike. Whether you’re just getting into riding or you’re a seasoned two-wheeler, the Intrigue offers a suspension design and component spec to confidently carry you through any terrain and it won’t break the bank. The ALLUX SL-Grade frame is light and stiff, while the 150mm RockShox RL 35 Gold fork and FOX Float Performance DPS rear shock with 140mm Maestro suspension tuned for lady riders provide a playful suspension system for all kinds of riding. 27.5” wheels are quick to accelerate and agile for snappy cornering, cruising through rock gardens, or charging up technical climbs. The SRAM SX Eagle drivetrain and Shimano brakes keep the shifting smooth and braking responsive.

Shop Liv Intrigue

Road and gravel bikes

Specialized Tarmac SL6 Road Bike –– $2700

The Specialized Tarmac is a legendary road racing machine that makes regular appearances on the world stage. With the Tarmac SL6, you get decades of top-level aerodynamic and speed-maximizing engineering at a fraction of the price. Built on Specialized’s featherweight FACT 9m carbon frame, the Tarmac SL6 is complimented by quality components including Shimano Tiagra 2x10 drivetrain and brakes, Axis Sport wheelset, and Specialized’s popular Power saddle. Get ready to master every road climb and descent on the Tarmac SL6.

Shop Specialized Tarmac

Liv Avail Road Bike –– $2800 Advanced Composite, $1950 ALLUX SL-Grade

While the Liv Avail Advanced 2 is technically a road bike, it has larger tire clearance (up to 38mm), bump-dampening D-Fuse seatpost, and relaxed endurance geometry to handle off-pavement conditions with ease. And with its Advanced Composite frame, mid-level Shimano 105 groupset and hydraulic brakes, the Avail Advanced 2 delivers the performance and longevity of a high-end bike at a friendly price. It’s also designed specifically for women, offering the best in a comfortable, accessible, versatile all-road ride. For an even more wallet-friendly option, check out the Avail AR1, which offers the same level of componentry on an ALUXX SL-Grade aluminum frame for $1950.

Shop Liv Avail

Specialized Diverge E5 Gravel Bike –– $1300

The Specialized Diverge E5 offers the best of modern gravel bike technology including tire clearance up to 47mm for a 700c wheel and 2.1” for 650b, and efficient performance-oriented geometry at an accessible pricepoint. Specialized’s top-level E5 Aluminum frame is paired with the FACT 9m carbon fork for a light and lively riding experience. The Shimano Claris 2x9 groupset provides reliable shifting and the Tektro Mira mechanical disc brakes keep you in control on all surfaces. Ample rack and fender mounts mean you’ll be prepared for the longest, most rugged off-pavement adventures on the Diverge E5.

Shop Specialized Diverge

Hybrid/Active bikes

Specialized Sirrus 4.0 or Sirrus X 4.0 Hybrid Active Bike –– $1500

For a carbon-frame bike that’s ready for you to hop on and go anywhere everyday, the Specialized Sirrus 4.0 offers exceptional value for a durable fitness-geared hybrid bike. The Shimano Sora Road components deliver reliable shifting and hydraulic disc brakes offer all-weather stopping. For a more gravel-ready option, check out the Sirrus X 4.0, which includes the bump-dampening Future Shock 1.5, 1x11 Shimano Deore drivetrain, and wider Pathfinder tires on an alloy frame with a carbon fork. Either way, you’ll pay the same low price for a bike that’s ready to take you everywhere you want to go.

Shop Specialized Sirrus

Find your bike at Basalt Bike and Ski

Whether you're just getting into mountain biking or a seasoned rider, value-priced bikes offer easy entry into a new rig. With the today's quality components and technology, it's more accessible than ever to throw your leg over the perfect bike. Stop into a Basalt Bike and Ski shop today to choose yours!

In biking, nothing beats having a tailwind when you need it. With their battery-powered motors, e-bikes offer the equivalent of a tailwind on demand. Whether you’re cruising with friends, embarking on a long road exploration, pedaling around your favorite singletrack, or replacing your daily car commute with a bike ride, e-bikes offer efficiency and comfort for longer, faster, and less effortful rides.

Because of their awesome versatility, e-bikes are one of the fastest growing segments of the bike industry. But with so many kinds of e-bikes to choose from, what are the most important things to consider when buying an e-bike? Whether you’re a motor-assisted aficionado or e-bike curious, here’s a five-step guide to help you find the perfect e-bike.

1. Decide where and how you plan to ride your e-bike

These days, there are as many varieties of e-bikes as there are ways to ride a bike. Commuters, cruisers, hybrids, road e-bikes, gravel e-bikes, mountain e-bikes––when it comes to pedal assist the options can feel endless. But as with choosing any other kind of bike, the first question to answer is where and how you will ride the bike most.

Active e-bikes

The most general category, active e-bikes serve a variety of rider needs. Low standover or step through models, wider tires that can handle some off-road activity, and racks or the ability to tow cargo. If you’re looking for a capable, well-rounded e-bike that is as comfortable cruising bike paths to the office as it is picking up groceries or towing a kids’ trailer, active e-bikes fit the bill.

Road and gravel e-bikes

For a more performance-oriented motorized whip, consider a road or gravel e-bike. Many models mirror the performance geometry of their analogue counterparts and some like the Specialized Creo SL are nearly as lightweight. Road and gravel e-bikes tend to prioritize battery range over motor power and some even offer extender batteries. If you have a longer work commute, don’t need to haul much cargo, or want to embark on long road or gravel rides with less effort on the climbs, road and gravel e-bikes are a great option.

E-Road bikes like the Specialized Turbo Creo SL are sleek and compact, yet pack a powerful punch when you need it.

Mountain e-bikes (eMTB)

Mountain e-bikes or eMTBs have taken off in recent years. Built on the capable suspension models of their analogue cousins, eMTBs open up a world of exploration. Your legs no longer need to be a limiting factor when embarking on big backcountry rides, and battery powered rides like the Pivot Shuttle are so sleek and lightweight they can easily be mistaken for non-motorized bikes. Not to mention the growing segment of Enduro focused eMTBs like the Yeti E160 that pair big, terrain-eating suspension with a motorized boost for Enduro racing and pedaling to the top of demanding downhill courses. Many mountain bike trail systems have regulations around eMTB usage, so check your local trail systems for rules and access.

Modern mountain e-bikes (eMTBs) feature the handling and performance of analogue mountain bikes but can keep you powered for longer adventures.

2. Choose your features

E-bikes often come with features you don’t typically find on analogue bikes like lights that recharge when you pedal, built-in LCD screens that provide real-time data on battery usage, and a Garmin radar that alerts you of approaching cars. For some bikes like the Specialized Vado, the build kit you choose (Turbo Vado 3 versus Turbo Vado 5) will determine the extra features the bike will come with.

The Turbo Vado has a variety of accessories like fenders, lights, and racks that are included depending on which model you buy.

Other things to consider are whether you want front or rear shocks, what tire size and type (slicks or knobbies), rack and fender attachments, and the ability to tow cargo. These decisions circle back to the two initial questions: where are you going to ride most often, and how.

Battery security is also important. Some e-bikes like the Specialized Turbo Vado let you lock the motor remotely via the Mission Control app, and either lock the battery on the bike or remove it entirely. Others like the Transition Relay have an easy to remove battery not only for security, but also so you can ride it like a regular mountain bike if you want to.

3. How much assist do you need?

For regulating reasons, e-bikes fall into three classes:

Class 1: provides pedal assist up to 20mph; above that you are pedaling on your own power. The assist will only kick in while you’re pedaling.

Class 2: includes a throttle button so you can get an assist without pedaling, for speeds up to 20mph.

Class 3: provides pedal assist up to 28mph. You still have to pedal for the assist, but can go faster while doing so. Because of the more powerful motor, this is a useful option for hauling cargo but it comes with more regulations. Class 3 bikes are often banned from bike-specific paths, multi use paths, and mountain bike trails.

Class 1 and Class 3 bikes also typically offer varying degrees of pedal assist such as eco––which offers little assist and uses less battery––and turbo––which will make pedaling feel like a breeze but will shorten the battery life.

4. The battery and motor power equation

Speaking of batteries, where do you want yours? On most eMTBs and road e-bikes, batteries are integrated within the frame for a sleeker system. This can make them harder to remove, unlike many hybrid/commuter oriented bikes that store the battery on the outside.

Some e-bike motors and batteries are so discrete, it's easy to mistake them for analogue bikes.

Most e-bikes are powered by lithium-ion batteries, which can be charged hundreds or thousands of times (there are specific ways to maximize battery life, covered in a future article). Batteries are often listed in terms of watt hours (Wh), which is the number of hours a battery can sustain one watt of power. Bigger batteries generally last longer, though that is dependent on the motor size. They’re also heavier and more expensive.

Motors are also measured in watts, with the number being the maximum power the motor can produce. Generally, a more powerful motor will drain the battery faster, and a less powerful one lets the battery last longer. The amount of range available in an e-bike is expressed in miles and/or hours and is an equation of battery capacity and motor output. Some bikes offer range extenders, essentially auxiliary batteries that you can take along if you know you’re going for an extra long ride.

For a deep dive into e-bike power (including handy analogies to horsepower, and Tour de France riders), check out this article on Cycle Volta.

On the topic of motors, you have options with where that lives too. Most e-bikes offer mid-drive or hub motors. Mid-drive are integrated in the bottom bracket between your pedal cranks and offer a balanced, natural pedal-assist feel. Hub motors are integrated into the rear or front hub with the former feeling a bit like being pushed from behind, and the latter similar to driving a front-wheel drive car. It’s worth noting that hub motors can make changing a flat on the back or front wheel a little more challenging.

5. Frames and components

E-bikes come in a variety of frame materials but the most common is aluminum. Without the weight concerns that come with performance on analogue bikes, carbon fiber and other expensive materials like titanium are less common on e-bikes. That said, carbon e-road bikes and eMTBs are increasing in popularity.

The high-performing Pivot Shuttle SL only comes with a carbon frame, though many other e-bikes offer aluminum builds.

As with analogue bikes, quality components can influence how smooth the ride is, how often the bike needs maintenance, and general durability. Some components manufacturers including SRAM make e-bike specific components designed to withstand higher torque and speeds, while some bikes like the Specialized Como SL offer low maintenance belt drive options that replace the standard drivetrain. Belt drives can shift when stopped and don’t need the lube and cable maintenance that typical bike chains and drivetrains do. If you’re a rider looking to just get on and go, belt drives are an easy option.

Final thoughts

When it comes to bikes, you get what you pay for. That’s even more true with e-bikes that have motors, batteries, and electronic systems that need to be well engineered and dialed to work consistently well. At Basalt Bike and Ski, we only stock e-bikes that we can stand behind and provide maintenance for, giving you extra piece of mind with every purchase.

With miles and miles of paved bike paths and spur roads, the Roaring Fork Valley offers rides to suit any e-bike ambitions. Whether you're seeking a long day out or a short cruise, here are seven of our favorite e-bike friendly rides.

1. Rio Grande Trail

The Rio Grande Trail is a popular multi-use trail that runs from Aspen to Glenwood Springs. Covering a total of 43 mostly paved miles, it follows the Roaring Fork River through the meadows and forests of the Valley, offering stunning mountain views along the way. There are a variety of trailheads to start from and end at, along with a few breweries, coffee shops, and restaurants along the way. For more route details, visit RFTA or MTB Project.

2. Maroon Creek Road

With its limited access to vehicles and finish at the picturesque Maroon Bells, Maroon Creek Road is a popular summer road ride. Whether your destination is Maroon Lake, or you plan to lock your bike at the top and head out for a hike the Maroon Bells Wilderness, this beautiful 11.5 mile climb (starting in Aspen) deserves a spot on anyone's must-ride list.

3. Smuggler Mountain Road

Smuggler Mountain Road is a popular gravel road that climbs above the town of Aspen. The steep switchback road sees a lot of dog walkers, hikers, and mountain bikers and tops out at a viewing platform with an expansive vantage of Aspen and the surrounding mountains.

4. Castle Creek Road

Castle Creek Road is a scenic, quiet spur road that climbs steadily 12 miles up the Castle Creek Valley. The road is paved and offers great views of the surrounding peaks. There are also several hiking trails and picnic areas along the way in addition to the ghost town of Ashcroft.

5. Lincoln Creek Road

When Independence Pass opens for the season, riding up Lincoln Creek Road to the ghost town of Ruby is a great way to get off the pavement. Most suitable for an e-bike with suspension, this 4WD road climbs 11 miles to a high point of 11,400 feet where you can either turn around or lock up the bike and head for a hike to Petroleum Lakes or 13,988 foot Grizzly Peak.

6. Crystal Valley Trail

The Crystal Valley Trail offers a mellow out and back up the Crystal River Valley outside of Carbondale. Running 6.5 paved miles one way, it's the perfect after work cruise and a good spot to take the kids.

7. Glenwood Canyon Trail

Driving through Glenwood Canyon is exciting enough, but the canyon gets even more impressive when you can take it at the speed of an e-bike. The Glenwood Canyon Recreation Path is a paved, multi-use path suspended above the Colorado River. Covering a total of 16.3 miles east from Glenwood Springs, it's great for access to river side picnics and venturing out onto one of the canyon's hiking trails.

Remember to always follow local regulations and etiquette when e-biking in Aspen. Yield to hikers and other trail users, and stay on designated trails. Always wear a helmet and bring plenty of water and snacks. With these tips in mind, you'll have a great time exploring the Roaring Fork Valley on your e-bike!