Crochet Tea Party

White Jug Cover

2017-05-26T16:12:00.007+01:00

It's time for garden parties and warm summer days, barbecues and jugs of Pimms, I offer you a jug cover for said alcoholic beverage ...

Stitches and Techniques used in this border (US Terminology):
:: double crochet
:: single crochet
:: chain stitch
:: double crochet cluster
:: crocheting with beads
:: using dental floss to thread beads on yarn

Pattern can also be found on:
:: Ravelry
:: Love Crafts

Tea Towel Edging

2017-05-25T12:06:00.002+01:00

Oh, I do love an edging or two. I've added an edging to a couple of delightful Cath Kidston-style tea towels and they look even more charming now.

This edging however, isn't only for tea towels. This can be placed around any blanket as a final border, along one edge of a pillow case, around a cushion cover, or at the bottom of a skirt.

Stitches and Techniques used in this border (US Terminology):
:: double crochet
:: half double crochet
:: single crochet
:: chain stitch
:: blanket stitch around the edge of fabric

The pattern is available to purchase from:
:: Ravelry
:: Love Crafts

Spring Flowers Egg Cozy

2017-04-16T09:13:00.001+01:00

It really is Spring, and I'm celebrating that with the project this week. I couldn't not do something that hints at Easter celebrations. I've given you a simple egg cosy, but one that speaks of the blossoming season too. This little number works up really quickly.

This pattern is also available on
:: Ravelry
:: LoveKnitting.

Log Cabin Baby Buggy Blanket

2017-04-05T18:34:00.004+01:00

Spring is here, but because the days aren't quite so warm yet, I offer you a blanket. This one is the log cabin blanket. This patterning is very common in the construction of patchwork quilts. However, for crochet, it's not a terribly difficult pattern to get into. If you can do a granny square, you can do this blanket.

The size of this blanket is between 25 and 30" square, however, it is possible to do this as a rectangle too.

Stitches and Techniques used in this border (US Terminology):
:: double crochet
:: single crochet
:: chain stitch
:: granny stripe
:: reverse single crochet/crab stitch

Oh, by the way, I committed the cardinal sin in crochet world. I ironed the blanket to get it into shape rather than block it. Baaaah!

The pattern is available to purchase from:
:: Ravelry
:: Love Knitting

Granny Heart Square

2016-02-06T17:17:00.003+00:00

So much love!

The lovely Wendy from The Hooked Haberdasher has featured the Granny Square Heart on her website. She asked me to put together a square using the same motif. Here is my offering of this little beauty.

The pattern is also available here:
:: Ravelry
:: Love Crochet

RaR

February Crochet Love

2016-02-01T12:06:00.003+00:00

I have a lovely flower heart pattern for you. I will preface this by saying that this is not my pattern, but is available online at various locations in another language (Russian, perhaps?) as a symbol chart.

You can download this here if you want all those symbols in a written pattern:
Ravelry
Love Crochet

Flower Heart

Requirements:

4mm crochet hook

10g of yarn

darning needle

Abbreviations (US Terminology):

sl st slip stitch

tr triple crochet

dc double crochet

ch chain

sc single crochet

rep repeat

st(s) stitch(es)

sp(s) space(s)

beg beginning

sk skip

yo yarn over

Special Stitches:

2 dc cl: (yo, insert hook into indicated st/sp, yo and draw a loop through to the front of work, yo, draw through 2 loops) 2 times, yo, draw through all loops on hook.

3 dc cl: (yo, insert hook into indicated st/sp, yo and draw a loop through to the front of work, yo, draw through 2 loops) 3 times, yo, draw through all loops on hook.

Picot: ch the required number of sts (5 ch, for example), sl st in first ch st (ch sts make a loop).

Rustic Lace Square - A Written Pattern

2015-09-13T12:32:00.001+01:00

So the Rustic Lace Square has been doing the rounds lately. And even though I've come to it quite late, the thrall of it hasn't waned. I still love it and keep returning to it often.
From a little research, I think the idea took off when it was introduced this on this collaborative blog. And then it just spiraled into a frenzy of crochet madness from there.

Of course, the demand for patterns and know-how followed, but all the seemed to be available was a symbol chart for this lovely piece of work which originally came from an Argentinian magazine/book called Para Ti.

On Instagram, I'm often asked for the written pattern when I post up a new pic of this square, so I wrote one out. There maybe other written patterns out there (I just haven't searched enough). Also, the pattern has been tested somewhat, but not thoroughly, so there may be mistakes. Please let me know if you find any, and I can adjust the pattern and reload a correct copy.

You can find a printable version of this pattern here:
Ravelry
Love Crochet

Here is a great tutorial from Marrose on how to join these lovelies for a throw/blanket or display item.

Granny Heart Square

2015-02-17T11:59:00.000+00:00

This post is now featured here

More Valentine's Day Hearts

2015-02-12T16:52:00.000+00:00

Here is another quick project for the lovers and the makers out there. This little padded heart is a delightful decoration for this weekend.

The pattern is not mine, so you will need to head over to Atty's blog and pick up her Heart Coaster pattern and crochet up a couple of them.

Steps to the Padded Heart:

Requirements:
crochet hook
darning needle
yarn
stuffing or wadding

Abbreviations:
sl st slip stitch
st stitch
ch chain stitch
sc single crochet

Crochet one heart completely, cut the yarn and weave in the yarn ends.
Crochet another heart, but when complete, do not cut the yarn.
The ending yarn on your newly finished heart will be at the top of the heart in the centre.
Place the two hearts together with the wrong sides facing inwards.
Put your crochet hook through the top of the sl st on both hearts in this centre part, and sl st the two together.
Sl st the next st on each heart together.
*1 sc in the next 3 sts of each heart, crocheting the two of them together.
3-ch picot.
Rep from * all the way down to the centre point at the bottom.
Make sure to do a 5-ch picot in the centre st at the bottom.
Continue on with the patterning from * up to top of the bulge of the heart.
Stuff the heart with padding or wadding.
Continue on with the patterning from * to the second last st.
Sl st in the second last st.
Sl st in the first sl st to join.
To make the holder, 20 ch.
Sl st again into the same st at the centre of the heart to join.
Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Granny Heart for Valentine's Day

2015-02-11T15:22:00.002+00:00

Here is a quick and easy heart to work up for Valentine's Day. I can't claim this pattern as my own, as I have seen numerous versions of this all over the internet. But here is my offering of this little beauty.

You can download this pattern here:

Ravelry

Lovecrafts

Blocking Motifs

2015-01-10T17:33:00.003+00:00

I enjoy creating motifs, but one thing I do know about these lovely creations is that the presentation of these motifs is not complete until they have been blocked. I have been asked on numerous occasions how I block my motifs, so I will go through the process I use to get them crisp and perfectly formed.

Required: Finished crochet item
Craft PVA glue
Container
Foam mat
Pins

1: Crochet and finish the motif in total. This includes cutting the yarn and weaving in the ends.

2. Get your craft PVA white glue ready. I use this because it dries clear.

3. Put some of the glue in a container and add some water to dilute. The proportion of water to glue is an arbitrary ratio, but you want to add enough glue to stiffen the motif, but not so much that when the item dries it looks plastic. This is a very experimental process and most times you get it right, and then sometimes you don't (see no. 12 for alternatives).
Mix the glue into the water very well.

4. Dip the motif into the water and soak it thoroughly. This is important, as the entire motif needs to be saturated with the solution.

5. Take the motif out of the water and squeeze the excess water out of the motif. Put the solution to one side to reuse for other motifs. I use a plastic container with a lid that I continually come back to. Be aware though that you cannot keep watered down glue (even in an airtight container) for too long as it goes mouldy. To mitigate this somewhat, give it a stir everyday.

6. Take your wet motif over to where you will be blocking and pinning it. This could be on your ironing board, a towel, a mattress, a cork board, or a foam mat.

7. Place your motif in the middle of the blocking mat with the front side of the motif facing you, and pin it down in the centre of the motif to anchor it.

8. Gently ease out the edges of the motif and pin into place. This is a snowflake, so there are six points to pin out.

9. There are extra points to pin out at the edges of each snowflake point, and I've chosen to pin these out too.

10. Allow your motif to dry overnight. I usually place these foam mats on top of a radiator where they will dry adequately by the morning.

11. When the motif is dry, remove the pins and lift gently it from the foam mat. Use and/or decorate the motif as needed.

12. Other Kinds of Blocking - If you have an item that requires blocking, but not stiffening, there are alternatives to using PVA glue. You can block and use a water spritzer to lightly dampen the item. As it dries, it will remain in the shape that you require. This is a suitable option for garments and items of clothing to be worn (shawls, scarves, etc), and also for blankets, where you want the item shaped but not stiff. Blankets made from granny squares can be blocked before or after joining the granny squares together.
Another alternative to using PVA glue is to use a spray starch (in an aerosol can). This stiffens the item marginally. However, with use or handling the motif will soften up again and lose its crispness, although it will still remain in the shape that you blocked it. This is especially true for festive decorations that will be used year after year. Be aware that spray starch does leave the item a little sticky. This is because you usually have to iron starched items, and this eliminates this stickiness.
It's not recommended that you iron a motif to simulate blocking. You will flatten the lovely texture that crochet gives the item. I have found, however, that using a steam iron held slightly above the blocked item allows the item to dry and block a little quicker.

13. Yarns for Blocking - There are certain yarns that block better than other yarns. I have found that cotton yarns are suitable for this because cotton is a natural fibre that can be manipulated more than a manufactured fibre like acrylic. The other natural fibres like wool, bamboo, alpaca and linen will give varying results depending on their fibre composition.
Acrylic and acrylic-blend yarns have a natural bounce to them and motifs made from these fibres tend to curl a lot. These will definitely benefit from blocking. I have found that I tend to fight with these yarns a little more to get them to comply. But I have had varying results with acrylic which depends on the proportion of acrylic in the yarn. I have found the mohair yarns do not respond well to being wet or starched, but you are able to block them, and the metallic yarns (for festive decorations) block well.

A Round Cushion Cover

2014-04-24T16:34:00.002+01:00

I crocheted up a couple of mandalas. There are quite a few patterns around for these marvellous creations, but I especially like the ones that Wink from A Creative Being has released recently. The Picots & Petals Mandala pattern is available for purchase through Wink's outlets. Be sure to grab yourself a pattern and get crocheting.

I wanted to make a few of these into large cushions/pillows. And so, I just continued some of the patterning for a much bigger mandala. These ones measure 50cm/20" in diameter. They are very big!

The backing for the cover is a plain one which just lets the magnificent mandala shine as the front of the cushion cover. I have a pattern for this backing which somewhat complements the mandala. The backing I created for the pillow fits a 20 inch cushion, but can be downsized to fit the regular sized Picots & Petals Mandala. I've mentioned in the pattern where you need to stop crocheting so that your backing fits the Picots & Petals Mandala which crochets up for me with a 4mm crochet hook and double knit yarn to 18cm/7".

Pattern for the backing for the pillow available here:
Ravelry
Love Crochet

Blanket Sizes

2014-01-20T00:00:00.000+00:00

I have a Ripple Blanket (Afghan) that has been going on for more than five years. It's so large now that it's no longer portable. I can't just pop it into my bag and pull it out if I have a couple of minutes spare during the day. It's a heavy blanket too, so it's not the kind of item that I want draped over me in the summer. So I'm confined to the winter months of crocheting this blanket. But there are so many other items which are just so lovely, that I haven't got round to working on this blanket for the last 18 months. BUT it will get finished one day (one winter day)!

Nevertheless, when I started crocheting the blanket, I didn't really think of size for a bed. I just thought large, very large. And as the work has progressed, I've downsized my expectations to medium large, and then maybe just to medium sized. I just want to get this blanket finished now!

Anyway, I now have a blanket that is almost finished. But the size is really awkward for a single bed (too large), and even more awkward for a double bed (almost fits, but not quite). Fortunately with crochet work, the finished item doesn't have to finish at the last stitch of the last ripple row. There is always the option of adding a border which will increase the size to something a little more becoming.

However, if I had consulted a sizing chart in the beginning I would have been clear from the start where I was heading. Scarlet Dash have a great table of sizes of things that go on beds, and is a really useful resource. Moreover, it's not only in imperial measurements (inches) but also in metric (centimetres).

Colour

2014-01-14T14:16:00.003+00:00

I love crochet, and I adore creating and generating new ideas and manipulating other people's offerings to this wonderfully creative enterprise. However, the thing that slows me down the most, and where I get a little confused and muddled is over colour choices. I tend to stick to conservative colour combinations. I won't really push the boat out with outrageously clashing colours that just somehow work.

I have found that browsing through others people's ideas in this respect helps a lot. I run a couple of classes a week and have found that those that attend the various groups have some fantastic ideas for colour combinations. I often photograph these items and and keep them as my resource for colour choices in other projects.

There are a number of websites that I have found immensely helpful when I am stuck for ideas and where the colour creative has deserted me. Fresh Stitches have some wonderful posts on colour and colour theory. Have a look at this post on Yarns that Go Together and this one about online tools.

Fresh Stitches point to various sites around the web that help with Changing Colours with Stripes and Granny Square colour combinations.

I really enjoy using Design Seeds for inspiration in colours that work well together.

Fingerless Mitts

2013-12-29T17:04:00.001+00:00

I have been scouring pattern books, Pinterest, Ravelry and miscellaneous websites for a suitable pattern for fingerless mitts. And I found one at Maaike's lovely creJJtion website, and I'm captured by them.

I have written out a step-by-step pattern for these mitts along with a symbol diagram and I thought I would share this with you. All credit goes to the work that Maaike has done with these mitts, I have only helped the process along. Please visit her site for more wonderful creations.

The patterning of the stitch is worked over four rows / rounds, and is repeated every 10 stitches. The pattern is worked using 5 different colour yarns, and changes colour after the 4^th round / row.

The mitts are quite tight and will fit an average sized hand/arm. They will stretch with time. These mitts are not graded for a larger or smaller fit. If they need to be worked to a larger size, I recommend working a test swatch with a larger hook first (4.5mm). If this isn’t sufficient then increase the initial chain stitches by a multiple of 10 (so up to 50 ch). This might make the mitts a little too large, if so, then I recommend dropping your hook size down for this larger chained work to a 3.5mm.

If you require a smaller mitt, then I recommend dropping your hook size down to 3.5mm. The work will crochet up tighter.

All these adjustments will have consequences for the size and fit of the mitts, as will individual tension and yarn choices.

Download the pattern here:
Ravelry
Love Crochet

How Much are You (and Your Work) Worth?

2013-10-31T14:34:00.000+00:00

You know that uneasy feeling you get when you have to price your wonderful wares up for a craft show/fair/fete/online shop/ display/ etc. And you know the hours you've put in. You know the cost of the materials. And you vaguely know what the market is charging for these items because you've done your homework on sites like Etsy, Ravelry and similar places. And you get that sinking feeling in your stomach when you realise that you can't ever recoup the hours of investment into the piece and barely able to cover the cost of the materials. (Although, at this point, I do question the validity of whether you should be making and offering the item up for sale.)
And worse still, after having costed up the item, you're brow-beaten by the first customer into offering a discount and/or nobody stops by your stall because the next person has the same items for sale at half the price (do they have access to a sweatshop somewhere?).

Naturally this opens up the debate about the value of the crafter/artisan and what the public/market expects them to offer at what price. But that's for another time.

Here is a nifty little Craft Calculator which gives some kind of indication of what your work is worth and where you should be pitching your prices.
This is, however, just a tool and not the definitive word on what items should cost. Use it with care and if you have some process that works for you, continue with what you have.

This is available as an app for both Android and iPhone mobile phones.