Cuisine En Locale

All this I learned from Joel

2010-02-02T10:19:00.003-05:00

I wrote this a while ago, maybe before I had somewhere to put it... A tribute to one of the most influential chefs I worked for as a little cooker:

All this I learned from Joel

One of the best chef's I ever worked with was a chap named Joel Aerosmith.
He was the owner, operator, head chef, executive chef, and pastry chef of a place where I started as a dishwasher and ended up in pastry, called La Patisserie, in Portland, OR.

Joel taught me things I still use regularly, even daily. He taught me things I teach.
He taught me "a pint's a pound, the world around". I thought my dad taught me that until recently, when he said he didn't. So it must have been Joel.
He taught me that it's better to not burn the toast to begin with than to scrape the burnt bit off. He taught me that sugar is a liquid. He taught me how to make ganache in the microwave and how to make muffins with my hands in bus-tubs.

He taught me that I was underachieving, and that I shouldn't. He told me, when I left after a year to go on a backpacking adventure across western Europe, that I couldn't come back, because he had nothing more to teach me. What he meant was he would never be able to pay me any more than he was at that moment. It was true, he couldn't, but I wouldn't have cared, because I was 22, and I just wanted to pay my rent and save a few dollars to buy trinkets in Prague. And because I wanted to stay.
And because he was wrong, of course, about that not being able to teach me more thing. He couldn't have ever not been able to teach me any more.

Joel wasn't always fun to work with. He was one of many cooks who has fallen into the mistaken belief that it's ok to be an asshole if you are the head of the kitchen. That everyone will forgive you, because it is in the job description. I've known a few of them. Gordon Ramsey's making a lot of money off that stereotype at the mo'. Joel did some things I didn't like too much. He yelled and sulked. Sometimes he would throw a ripe tomato at the big fridges, and it was a pain to clean it up, but, to his credit, I don't remember him ever throwing one at an employee. He didn't shower me with praise, but I know he was proud of me. He fed me recipes and ingredients and let me go freely. One time I made an entire batch of banana muffins- dozens and dozens of them- and forgot to put in sugar. Maybe letting me go wasn't always the best choice, but I learned, even from the mistakes. No, I learned largely from the mistakes.

I think I must have met Joel because I was making faces at his kid. I was desperate for a job, and I have never been overly keen about other people's kids, so I'm guessing I knew out of the gate that this particular child was attached to an authoritative adult, perhaps one wearing an apron, who might even have the power to employ me.

I talked my way into the only job he needed to fill. A few months out of college, armed with my B.S. in education from Tufts, I rolled up my sleeves, put on my purple, six hole Doc Marten's, and washed his dishes. I must have washed the heck out of those dishes too. I remember him coming up to me a couple of days later and inquiring if I could bake. Who told me recently, always say "yes"? No matter what they are asking, always say "yes". It's a curse. It's not true. Do not always say yes. Unless you are in your early twenties and don't know any better but have the unending energy it takes to back that "yes" up.

So, I said "yes".
And there I was, in the pantry. Big bins of flour and sugar like I had never seen before. Big mixers and real scales. Recipes to make not a dozen, but many dozens of cookies. A lot of the shortcuts and tricks I use today were things that I learned in that kitchen.

Then came the cooking part. In Joel school, you can't spend all your time baking. There is science, and there is art. You bake and you cook.

Breakfast.
Training meant flipping toast. For hours. In an omelet pan. Over and over and over until I could flip it and catch it perfectly. Only then was I ready for eggs.
Over easy. Over hard. Poached. Soft boiled.... there are as many ways to cook eggs as their are people. The trick is to find a common language, and the language of breakfast food is harder to learn than German. (That's hard. I only lasted a week in German!) On the line every weekend, it was just me and him, fast and furious. Breakfast is art because no one wants to sit down to a two hour breakfast. They want to come in, eat, and leave. They want their coffee refilled before it's even empty, and you know they are going to leave a crap tip, so the waiters are cranky and just want to turn the table as fast as possible.
The line is out the door on the weekends, we've been there since the crack of dawn, baking fresh muffins and sticky buns, and by the time the tickets are two deep we have hit a groove. Toast in the salamander, fire that omelet, no jalapenos on that one- I said, NO JALAPENOS! Augh! Scrape em off, they'll never know.... Move!

I loved being a breakfast cook.
It's a lowly, unappreciated rung on the restaurant ladder.
Underpaid, overworked and exhausting. That is art.

ONCE in the New Year!

2010-01-19T09:30:00.007-05:00

January 29th at 7pm please join us to welcome 2010 with a cornucopia of delicious local treats, and a few very special seasonal guests as well.

Featuring:
Lentils and beans, which look like coins and represent prosperity
Fruits, sweet and fortuitous
Fish, who glisten like jewels and move together for success
Eggs for fertility (of all kinds- spring is coming!)
and lovely Rings of deliciousness to bring the old year to a close while entering into the new one.

$50/person payable by check
Advance reservation required
Pleez contact
jj@enlocale.com
for deets and more

MEAT MEET JANUARY 23rd, 10AM

2010-01-15T11:09:00.004-05:00

OK.
We froze last time, partly because it's January, and partly because we met at night and it was chiiilllllyyyyyy.... so this time we are going to try a morning meet. Nothing is ever perfect for everyone (just ask Malcolm Gladwell!) but we are doing our best to make some time work for some people.
Thanks for understanding!

MEAT MEET
Saturday, January 23rd
10am
The parking lot behind Quest Diagnostics in Central Sq.
(Approx. 36 Bishop Allen Drive, Cambridge)

The Stillman meat wagon will be there to dole out your orders and anything else you want to pick up from their available coolers.

Please post your specific requests in the comments section below. Questions will be answered there, too, and anything you ask for will come on the truck all ready for you.

Cash, check and credit cards are all accepted.
Please bundle up, if it's cold.
We promise to move things along as fast as possible, but we are only human.

MEAT MEET: January 8 at 6pm in Central Sq.

2010-01-05T10:18:00.004-05:00

Hey you crazy locavore carnivores!

Meat meet with me, please do:

Friday, January 8th at 6pm
In the parking lot at 36 Bishop Allen Drive, Cambridge
(Behind Quest Diagnostics in Central Sq.)

The Stillman truck will be there from 6pm until there is no one left wanting meat.

To make special requests please post them in the comments section below.
Kate will bring what you ask for, and so much more...

Cash, checks and credit cards are welcome- See you there!

xoxo JJ and the meat wagon

ONCE in blue moon

2010-01-01T19:48:00.004-05:00

Last night, the final night of 2009, and the first of 2010, was also a blue moon.
The simple description of what that means is that it is the second full moon in one month.
There are a lot of other things, it means, and it has changed a lot of times. There is a pretty good piece about that here.

I like that when there used to be names for each month's moon (Harvest, etc..) Blue was sort of the extra one.

The idea of a blue moon is one I find compelling. It may have something to do with the fact that after cooking huge, crazy, thematic dinner parties using the word, "ONCE" now make me sit up and pay attention. In fact, the term "ONCE in a blue moon", is a phrase that my Dad and I had chewed on a bit in the past, and I have sort of been waiting for the opportunity to use the title, cuz I am just a little bit purple that way.

So how did it escape my notice that this New Year's Eve fell on a blue moon?

I think I will find a minion to accuse of sleeping on the job, because I simply cannot accept that level of fail in myself.

Conveniently, we actually did cook a crazy, thematic dinner party last night, so it wasn't like I was sitting, alone at home with my head in my hands, sobbing, "why, oh why, for Pete's sake, did I not schedule a huge party on this night????".

Nope. We was cooking, and it was fun. And it was a wonderful ONCE, under a coudshroudclad, beautiful, blue moon.

We are the consumers your parents warned you about

2009-12-25T16:58:00.007-05:00

In my family Christmas is a commercial holiday. We celebrate it by giving eachother way too many gifts, and the sole purpose of the holiday is to purchase and acquire.
On the surface that sounds fairly repugnant. Like I have raised a pack of consumers with only short term self gratification in mind. And, I suppose, were you to accuse me thusly, you would be partially correct.
For at least a month my kids anthem has been, "I want that for Christmas!"
The sign on my daughter's door this week said, "lots and lots of Barbie stuff" and my son gave me at least four lengthy and descriptive wish lists. My husband shopped for himself and discussed at great length what he would like to have. My mom and I shopped together for me and my sister while my daughter whined that she was bored, and I showed my dad the gift I had bought for mom and then was nervous about his reaction- what if it wasn't good enough, what if I failed to buy my mother a good present!!!
The anxiety built in the days before the 25th, endless phone calls to find out if someone already got this or what time someone else should be there to cover with the kids for him or her to shop more, more... MORE!!!
An ugly picture indeed!
But, wait... I think this is another piece of that horrendous puzzle that I have just found under the pile of spent wrapping paper and the landfill of ribbon....
I could read the sign that Ruby wrote- her handwriting has come miles- Oliver is using accurate punctuation and his spelling is really amazingly good, even those big words, like "dangerous".
Everytime a tiny voice crowed, "I want that for Christmas!", they unwittingly told me what was turning them on, and as a result, I feel like I know what they like, these thinking people, and what they want to do. I actually think I know a little bit about them, and what interests them, beyond the brandnames, to the core of the gift. I have never seen Oliver happier than when he unwrapped his very own copy of, The Little Prince. How did I know? It was on one of his lists, and he really did want it.
I can take guesses, but I want my husband to have something he likes, and we had fun choosing his gift together, and discussing the pros and cons. I know that he was paying micro attention to me too, because he got me something I really, really wanted, and I never even guessed he would. I LOVE to be surprised!
The day that mom and I dragged Ruby around was also the day she spent playing in a snowbank with the little daughter of the owner of the boutique, and she got to eat about five delicious cookies, too. Future playdate with said child now pending- new friend!
The sneaky moment with my dad resulted in a conspiratorial joy over my mom's pleasure with her present, and when Ruby got what she really, really wanted we all cheered- even if it was one of those highly advertised items- she was far too happy to not acknowledge her glee by joining in.
Dad loves his coat, I love my earrings, Oliver loves his books and Ruby loves Christmas, and me, in that order.
No one is yelling.
No one is fighting.
We are smiling, and making tea for eachother, and treating eachother with honest respect and like.
I don't care if this day, that we happen to celebrate on a day that a lot of people celebrate on in a similar way, is deeply rooted in commercialism, because at the end of the day the result is that we are connected to eachother. We create memories. We take photos and share them with other people to tell them we are thinking of them, even though we can't be near them. We tell eachother we love eachother and hug. The kids stop fighting, and say nice things to eachother. Until they don't, but that is ok too.
Happy Christmas, thanks for the stuff, I love you too.
xo JJ

AP IMPACT: Monsanto Seed Business Role Revealed - ABC News

2009-12-13T21:59:00.002-05:00

Confidential contracts detailing Monsanto Co.'s business practices reveal how the world's biggest seed developer is squeezing competitors, controlling smaller seed companies and protecting its dominance over the multibillion-dollar market for genetically altered crops, an Associated Press investigation has found.

With Monsanto's patented genes being inserted into roughly 95 percent of all soybeans and 80 percent of all corn grown in the U.S., the company also is using its wide reach to control the ability of new biotech firms to get wide distribution for their products, according to a review of several Monsanto licensing agreements and dozens of interviews with seed industry participants, agriculture and legal experts.

Declining competition in the seed business could lead to price hikes that ripple out to every family's dinner table. That's because the corn flakes you had for breakfast, soda you drank at lunch and beef stew you ate for dinner likely were produced from crops grown with Monsanto's patented genes.

Read the whole story here:

http://abcnews.go.com/Business/wireStory?id=9325379

Food, Ick: School Cafeteria Beef Not Even Good Enough For Fast Food Joints

2009-12-09T11:20:00.009-05:00

by max linsky

The legends of public school cafeterias are, well, legendary. Burgers become Sloppy Joe's, Sloppy Joe's becomes mystery meat, mystery meat somehow becomes burgers again—it's a vicious cycle. And while we all knew, even as second-graders, that we weren't getting the healthiest fare in the world, I'm not sure any of us knew it was this bad. From USA Today:

The U.S. Department of Agriculture says the meat it buys for the National School Lunch Program "meets or exceeds standards in commercial products."

That isn't always the case. McDonald's, Burger King and Costco, for instance, are far more rigorous in checking for bacteria and dangerous pathogens. They test the ground beef they buy five to 10 times more often than the USDA tests beef made for schools during a typical production day.

And the limits Jack in the Box and other big retailers set for certain bacteria in their burgers are up to 10 times more stringent than what the USDA sets for school beef.

10 times! Have you ever been to a Jack in the Box? Jeebus. Hopefully a Senator or two has—Congress is scheduled to revisit the Child Nutrition Act next year.

Here's a goal: Let's get our kids' food at least on par with McDonald's. Too much to ask?

MORE of this MUST READ story: http://www.takepart.com/news/2009/12/09/food-ick-school-cafeteria-beef-not-even-good-enough-for-fast-food-joints

Beatrice has called...how far will you go ... For the love of your life?

2009-11-30T17:44:00.009-05:00

Preface:
I have a fear that this is a rather confusing post, so this is to clarify somethings that might bewilder upon reading.
This is a dinner with a full performance. The menu and the script were written together, as a play, by a really amazingly creative group of women, three of whom are cooking- as Cuisine en Locale.
It's not going to be a goth night, it is going to be an art-for-arts-sake literary interpretation of the text.
While we are not going to do a vegetarian option, the meal is largely vegetarian and I do not think anyone will be disappointed, nor hungry, if they pick around items that contains meat.
If you have any questions at all please drop me a line- jj at enlocale.com
And we always love it when you post a comment for everyone to read!
Thank you, read on...

Abandon hope, all ye who join
Cuisine en Locale and our friends

at OBERON,
home of the American Repertory Theater’s The Donkey Show

for a culinary and theatrical interpretation
of the venerable 14th c. work by
Dante Alighieri,
Divina Commedia:
INFERNO

We are dying for you to join us for a tour of the nine circles of Hell. a.
$80/person, includes ten courses of locally sourced food,
but does not include beverages* or gratuity.

This ONCE will take place thrice, on the 15th, 16th and 17th of December
Performances begin at 6pm, and the show will run for three hours b.c.,
to be followed by a dance party in heaven (natch)

Footnotes:
a. No. It will not just be 'spicy'. Come on, give us a little bit of credit.
b. Everything will be eatable, and not scary. We've only just done gross for ONCE Upon a Midnight Dreary, this ONCE is going to be tastilicious and complicated in other ways.
c. While we do usually at least try do a vegetarian alternative, we simply cannot for ONCE in Hell. Sorry vegevores, you are either gonna have to eat local meat, or wait for the next ONCE. Ask nicely and maybe we'll do a full veg one sometime :-)

*There is a full bar at OBERON and we will also be offering special text-appropriate cocktails all night long

Tickets: https://www.ovationtix.com/trs/cal/28325

Austin Bros Eggs this Monday at Central Sq, and meat all winter

2009-11-20T12:23:00.008-05:00

Hey Everyone- Austin Bros is going to be bringing their CSA to the parking lot behind Harvest Coop in Central Sq on the first Monday of every winter month and you can go pick up extra stuff from them, even if you aren't a member. They will be there to sell you yummy meat.

NOTE: Finally there will be the amazing Austin Bros. EGGS just in time for the last Central Sq market of the year! Go get em, cuz it's time to make a lotta pumpkin pies, my friends!

Here's the most recent missive from the farm:

Good morning,
The chickens are laying and last count we had 6 dozen per day. So there should be plenty of eggs for the market this Monday. Hope to see you there.
This is the last market for the season. We will return December 14th, 11:30-1:00, for our winter deliveries. Mark your calendars and give us a call if you need anything by December 9th or no later than noon time on the 13th.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Naturally Raised Beef "From Farm to Table"
Austin Brothers Valley Farm 270 West St. Belchertown, Ma. 01007
413-668-6843 Michael 413-668-5992 Roxanne
Meat CSA, farm store, sides available, Fresh eggs, hay,silage,
Oxen bought, sold and for hire for your special event.

ONCE Upon A Midnight Dreary reviews

2009-11-15T09:24:00.012-05:00

OK, I admit it, I love when other people write about our events, and not just because it makes life easier for me, or even because I am enormously self-focused about everything all the time (though I am, hey, might as well admit it.) It is just that it is so great to get another person's perspective, and to hear what people were thinking and how they were reacting to whatever it was we were doing.

As ONCE upon a midnight dreary (our recent Halloweening dinner party) was so especially gruesome, I was particularly excited to read about how people felt post-dining. And we really hit the jackpot this time! Please read on, and follow the links, to not one, but two great pieces from LimeyG, and another perspective from Cave Cibum. Thanks both!!

Tongues, hearts, bugs, worms: a Halloween feast

Somehow Hallowe'en snuck up on us this year. We didn't think about costumes or put up decorations, and our social calendar was empty. And then we got an unexpected invitation from Trevor, a redonkulously incredible chef and total sweetheart: he was going to be cooking at JJ Gonson 's next ONCE event and thought we might be interested.

Indeed we might.

JJ is a chef, a passionate locavore, a dynamo, and completely cool. Her dinners are known for being fun and full of unexpected surprises. This particular event happened to be on October 30, which made it a perfect time to create a menu of things some people are afraid to eat.

Trevor had mentioned lamb's tongue and pig's head. There were rumors of insects. It was going to be awesome.

More....

Halloween feast ONCE more (with better pix)

Sometimes it seems as though I'm surrounded by generous and creative people.

First, I got to go to a ONCE dinner, which required some fabulously talented kitchen artists to spend days of cooking (and doubtless weeks of planning) to create a truly unique meal.

And now one of my fellow diners, who was wielding a far nicer camera than mine, has kindly allowed me to post some of his shots here.

So before I go further, an enormous THANK! YOU! to Benjamin Eckstein, director of photography, video editor, producer. Check out his site benjamineckstein.com, especially the gorgeous highlights reel.

More....

ONCE Upon a Midnight Dreary

From the very first time I heard about Cuisine En Locale's ONCE, I've been dying to go. ONCE stands for One Night Culinary Event, and the concept is that JJ Gonson and her friends put together a special dinner party (with some loose theme) for that one night only. So I've been longing to go to one for about a year now, and between my schedule conflicts and other ONCEs filling up too quickly, ONCE Upon a Midnight Dreary (hosted the night before Halloween) was the first one I could make.

The first email I got from JJ just said that the night was going to be scary. I can handle scary, I thought. It wasn't until a night or two before that I realized just how scary this night would be.

I like to think I'm pretty open-minded about a lot of foods - I'll give most things at least a taste. But this meal, focusing on offal (oh, and bugs!), really pushed my limits. Having said that, I'm pretty damn proud of how much I did end up eating.

More from Cave Cibum....

Meat Meet just in time for Turkey Day!!

2009-11-13T16:55:00.006-05:00

Great news meat lovers!

We are really kicking the MEAT MEETs into high gear here folks- no time to waste, the holidays are almost upon us... or at least the tip of the holiday iceberg is. Yes, it's time to roast those big ol birdies and serve em with cranberry sauce (I've got a lead on local cranberries- drop a line if you wannem!)

Meat Meet the second will be on Saturday the 21st of November
Please join us at 4:30 behind Quest Diagnostics in Central Sq.
(The address of the parking lot is roughly 36 Bishop Allen Drive, Cambridge 02139, for you GPSers)

Please place your requests by posting them as a comment below
Kate and co will read them before they leave the farm on Saturday morning.

If you are hunting turkey please include it in your request and we will do our best to accommodate you.

Just FYI- these are not the big breasted birds of Perdue-ville. These birds are gamier and more flavorful. Trust me, they are fan-bloody-tastic.
Prices are:
Small Traditional Birds (10-15 lbs) $65
Medium Traditional Birds (16-20 lbs) $80

Looking forward to meating with you on the 21st-
bawk bawk!

Rachel's slideshow of our first Meat Meet of the year

2009-11-12T09:49:00.000-05:00

Thanks for the lovely photos, Rachel!

With one eye on the valley and the other in Hell

2009-11-10T17:17:00.001-05:00

Greetings from the treehouse-

We are frantically trying to store food here, and I feel a little squirrel-like. Not to be confused with squirrel-y. A completely different thing. I'm urban homesteading like a maniac- tucking jars into every empty space and finding the dirtiest potatoes to stick in the hallway cupboard. Will they make it? Who knows, but I'm going to do my best to get as many folks as possible through this long stretch coming up. I'm actually not wintering nearly so many squashes and potatoes this year as I did last, as I'm really hoping that I'll be able to find at least some sort of root obtainment system through Sherman Market, Formaggio and other places that are carrying local food.

Fortunately, in random ways there is also food that will keep on coming from a collection of farms in the Pioneer Valley. I am absolutely planning on taking advantage of said food, as it appears, and I will pass info on, as appropriate.

The first real Meat Meet of the winter took place last weekend, and the resulting ribs have been in my oven for about 10 hours. They aren't quite there yet... almost... almost.

The next Meat Meet could take place before Thanksgiving, if there was enough enthusiasm. Stillman's is pretty slammed, and most of the turkeys are spoken for (I've got dibs on a few- they are delicious!), but if we really, really want them to come, and ask really, really nicely, it is possible we might be able to tempt them into Central Sq. not this Saturday, but the next one. That's Nov 21st, that is.

I have spoken with a few people who might be willing to do other sorts of "meets" with me. Apples are a definite possibility. If you are into it tell me so that I know to set it up, probably for some time in Dec.

I've already picked up my first Winter CSA share from Red Fire Farm, and I'm looking forward to the start of the Enterprise delivery from Metroped. In some ways, winter kind of gives me a break- I don't have to do nearly so much running around to collect my food. Less squirrel, more camel. Or something like that.

The food has been kind of weird this fall. I guess it has been weird most of this season. No tomatoes to speak of. The potatoes are thin, too, and I hardly saw tomatillos, except at the G&P City Sprouts garden, and they were just wee. It was a challenge, had to make up a lot of new things, and substitute a lot, but not impossible. Then, it never is, really. If you think you want us to help you out, and do some cooking for you, please let me know. Yeah, we do that.

We are actively planning the next ONCE now, too. Something else we do, and if you thought we had gotten theatrical before, well, this one is really going to make the others look like finger puppet shows*. I am hoping to have some real details for you soon, but for now I'll say it is going to be a weeknight party, smack in the middle of December. There will be a lot going on, and we have been studying classic literature in preparation.

More to follow, and until then here, for your amusement, are some thoughts about both the creation and the execution of ONCE upon a Midnight Dreary. Yes, there were bugs. Yes, they were real. Yes, I did eat them. No, I did not eat the mealworms.

Back to the ribs now, I think they are a little strong on the Szechwan peppercorn....

xoxo JJ

* I don't actually know what that meant

Taste of the Valley!

2009-11-06T10:04:00.004-05:00

On the 24th of November there is a truck coming to Newton bearing the product of several Pioneer Valley Farms.

This pre-Thanksgiving effort is being coordinated by the wonderful people of Old Friends Farm, and if you would like to place an order they need to hear from you right away.

Please follow this link to more information, and ordering instructions:
http://www.oldfriendsfarm.com/taste-of-the-valley--for-newton-customers.html

Or download their informative PDF here

I can't recommend their eggs, ginger and garlic enough.
Oh so very, super special yummy!!!

Come and getcher MEAT!

2009-11-05T22:04:00.003-05:00

What? The farmer's markets are closing already? Did we even have a summer? I must have missed it when I blinked!

Yes, sadly, it is true. The bright, fresh veg is quickly becoming a memory we will cling to until next June, but that doesn't mean you can't eat local. The roots have been soaking up all that good sunlight and energy, and we still have meat- right?

Right!

So, clearly it's time to fire up the old MEAT MEETS again

What is a MEAT MEET, you ask?
Well, allow me to enlighten you!

Every now and then- when the mood strikes us, or perhaps just when it seems like it is high time, them lovely folks at Stillman at the Turkey Farm, and we of Cuisine en Locale, coordinate a meat drop off meeting.
So as to make it more carbon-friendly, they also give you the opportunity to tell them what meat you want, and they will bring it in from the farm, just for you, because you demanded it.

Here's how is works.

In the comment section below post your wish list.
Stillman has pork, beef, lamb and chicken, and of course there will be turkey soon too!
Before coming in from the farm on Saturday they will read those comments and bring what you have asked for.
Then you show up at the meeting time, and you can buy your meat straight from the farm- hormone, antibiotic and middleman free!

The first MEAT MEET of the year is THIS SATURDAY (yup, day after tomorrow- you got it)
This meeting is going to take place in the parking lot on Bishop Allen Drive, right before the intersection with Colombia St. (The same lot that Steve Parker drops his CSA in).

The truck will be there at 4:30pm and will stay until the last person is served. Please come at 4:30 if you want to pick up meat.

You can see what sorts of cuts might be available on Stillman's website. Write your wishes in the comments below, and hopefully they will have what you have asked for. They will also bring extra- they always do, and you can buy that too!

Don't forget to post in the comments below, so they know what you want-
See you on Saturday!
xoxo JJ

ONCE Upon a Midnight Dreary- OCTOBER 30th

2009-10-20T14:20:00.009-04:00

On Halloween eve we bring you a ONCE of the macabre
Please join us in an as yet undisclosed dining location for several courses of unpredictable fare...

It may very well be ookey.
The bugs are certainly spooky.

Vegans beware!
The pig's heads have hair,

and we wouldn't want you to feel pukey

RSVP for details etc.
jj@enlocale.com

Boo!

Extra Cooking Class added on Oct 25th

2009-10-20T14:17:00.001-04:00

Here's the deets:

Want to expand your repertoire in the kitchen and pick up a few new recipes along with some knife skills (or just get beyond using the can opener at every meal)? Join us on Sunday, October 25th to cook with Chef JJ Gonson as she teaches us how to cook a delicious Fall meal using fresh, local ingredients. After we prepare the meal we will enjoy the fruits of our labor!

In her words:
The class is about thinking of cooking as an art form, using local, in-season ingredients. The goal is to help you to feel comfortable walking into the kitchen armed only with your instinct for flavor, color, and texture, and to encourage you to put down the recipes and rely on your senses. We will explore creating dishes of the season with local foods and flavors – focusing on why things taste the way they do, some kitchen tricks, and even a little bit of food science – to achieve our goal: a healthy, fresh, and delicious seasonal and locally grown meal. Together we will prepare a full dinner, including a fresh salad, entree, side dishes, and dessert, and then we will sit down and enjoy it together while we discuss what we have been doing. Come prepared to laugh and learn

About JJ Gonson:
JJ Gonson is a personal chef bringing over 20 years of restaurant and personal cooking experience to your table. She believes that you are what you eat, but that it doesn't mean you can't eat well! Using relationships with local vendors and farmers, she can prepare a wide variety of dishes including vegetarian, vegan, wheat free and organic meals. She specializes in working in the most sustainable way possible. Everything is made fresh and to order from healthy ingredients. Each meal is custom designed especially to suit your needs. She was named 2008’s Best Personal Chef by Boston magazine.

Read more about JJ Gonson at:
http://www.cuisineenlocale.com/2005/05/welcome.html

What reviewers on Yelp! are saying:

“JJ is more than a cook. She loves to be around people and entertain them. She has a passion for food that can make you excited about cauliflower. (And I don't even LIKE cauliflower!!) If you have any chance to be around her, jump on it because her passion will get you excited about trying multiple cuisines and even trying your hand at cooking.”

“I had the pleasure of taking a class taught by JJ at CCAE, and I immediately knew I wanted to learn more about food from her. She's genuinely passionate about what she does, and it comes through in her cooking. “

Class limit- 15

Suggested Attire: Comfortable clothes you can cook in!! Closed toe shoes, please.

Directions: Cambridge Center for Adult Education Kitchen located at 42 Brattle St. in Harvard Square.

Three little links

2009-10-15T20:31:00.002-04:00

1. A meme-tastic review of ONCE L.o.L. (that's Lots of Lobster, of course):

http://www.cuisineenlocale.com/2009/09/this-just-in-from-basil-queen.html

2. A autumnal-riffic review of ONCE Fall with a really nice slide show:

http://www.boston24.com/article-1792-an-underground-dining-adventure-in-union-square.html

3. A very affordable conference happening this Sunday in Roxbury where our local food will be served at lunchtime. Good speakers, good connections, good ideas:

http://www.relocalizemassachusetts.org/

Stay tuned for ONCE upon a midnight dreary- Oct. 30th.... gruesome details to follow

xoxo

ONCE Fall is filled to the brim, but fear not...

2009-10-09T10:32:00.005-04:00

Thank you so very much if you are here looking for the information for our ONCE dinner on Oct 9th- "ONCE Fall".

Our little room is very full for this ONCE, but that means you want more, and so more there shall be!

Keep a sharp eye out for "ONCE upon a midnight dreary" on Oct 30th. Yes, it will be gross. So fun!

If you want us to come to you we will- happily. We do private dinners regularly, and with joy.

If you are interested in hosting a ONCE, or helping, please let me know.

If what'cha really, really want is to come eat, eat, eat, please drop me a line and I'll get you onto our mailing list, pronto.

Or if you just want to say hi, well that is nice too!

Thanks again for your interest- your keeness is the ingredient to a successful local food movement, we will make great change together!

Happy Fall!
oxo JJ and the ONCE crew

CitySprouts' School Garden Celebration - a soggy success!

2009-10-07T12:26:00.004-04:00

Here is the wonderful kambucha-making head of Slow Foods BU, Annabelle Ho's, awesome visual re-cap of a soaking wet, and fantastically fun, City Sprouts fair last weekend.

Yes, I really was that wet, and stayed like that most of the day. We literally cooked in a downpour, all day. Now THAT is truly cuisine en locale!

Last Saturday, I volunteered at CitySprouts' School Garden Celebration (formerly the Harvest Festival), which was a blast!
Despite the rainy weather, we had a fabulous set-up indoors, which still allowed us a view of the Graham & Parks school garden!

I had the opportunity to work at the Stone Soup station with JJ Gonson from Cuisine En Locale.

The kids did a wonderful job chopping up the vegetables for the soup, the majority of which were a generous donation from Parker Farm!

please read the rest on Annabelle's blog:
http://wholesomecuisine.blogspot.com/2009/10/citysprouts-school-garden-celebration.html

Food Democracy Now needs our help to make change for children

2009-10-07T11:29:00.002-04:00

I just joined Food Democracy Now! in calling on the FDA and USDA to investigate the Smart Choices program, a brainchild of big food companies that labels things like Froot Loops and Lucky Charms a "smart choice" for parents. In an age where childhood obesity is becoming an epidemic, this kind of deceptive labeling has to end. Will you join me and make your voice heard too?

http://action.fooddemocracynow.org/cms/sign/Smart_Choices/

The Smart Choices program was dreamed up by giant food conglomerates like ConAgra, General Mills, Kellogg’s, Kraft, PepsiCo, Tyson Foods and Unilever, together with some industry “experts.” They say its purpose is to help consumers make “smarter food and beverage choices," but you'll be surprised to see what they define as a “Smart Choice”: things like Froot Loops®, Keebler Cookie Crunch® and Lucky Charms®.

The new Smart Choices® label, a large, bright green checkmark is a sign of everything that is wrong with food industry driven labeling programs. It's important that we stand up. Tell the FDA that America’s children are not for $ale – it’s time to end deceptive labeling. It only takes a moment.

Please. Take action today!

http://action.fooddemocracynow.org/cms/sign/Smart_Choices/

Thanks!

ONCE Faaaalllllllll.....

2009-09-30T17:07:00.009-04:00

The next ONCE will be taking place on October 9th, 2009 at a location in Somerville.

The theme is :

f
a
l
l

and to celebrate the start of the amazing New England harvest season we will be rolling out some of our most favorite dishes

l
i
k
e

Grass fed beef shortribs slowly braised with root vegetables

Lobster ravioli with butternut puree

a
n
d

The Cuisine en Locale nearly legendary Gruffalo Crumble!

That's just to whet your appetites, but you know you can count on us to come up with a good handful more treats for you to enjoy over the course of the evenings, well, courses!

If you would like to join us, or come help cook, please contact me directly by email (jj at enlocale dot com)

We can't wait to feed and fall you!

xoxo JJ and co.

This just in from the Basil Queen!

2009-09-24T10:13:00.004-04:00

Thank you Adele for the great rundown and especially for the love and the dishwashing!
xxoo CeL

From Tales of the Basil Queen
Can Haz Lobster Plz? or Crashing the ONCE afterparty

I don't usually do internet memes. To be honest, I never quite understood why LOLcats became so popular. But when an e-mail announcing O.N.C.E. LOL (Lots O' Lobster) arrived in my inbox last week, the first thing that came to mind was that someone needed to create a LOL-lobster. (LOL-ster?)

(Above image pulled from Wikimedia Commons, and run through a LOLcat generator.)

Of course, the second thought - "I need to make a reservation!" - rapidly followed.

And so it is that when Friday evening rolls around, I find myself in a repeat of last winter's comedy of errors, trying to find a street near Union Square that seems to be missing a sign. Eventually, a helpful cashier at a pizza place points me in the right direction, and I'm only twenty minutes late when I arrive at the right address.

Once I'm inside, and up the stairs, I find myself in a high-ceilinged space that looks a little like a living room, and a little like a funky cafe. (I later learn that it's part of a community center.) There are several tables clustered together to create a dining room, but as I said, I've arrived late, and there isn't an open seat at any of them. Instead, I end up sitting in a sort of lounge area where couches and armchairs are arranged in a circle, paired with fold-out tray tables. It's off to the side, but it's right next to the open kitchen, so I have an excellent view of the action.

More!....

Waltham Fields Farm- Farm Day this Saturday!

2009-09-23T20:33:00.001-04:00

click on the poster for all the details!