Cybercaptain

Mumbai blues

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 12 Feb 2012 05:39:45 PST

I arrived well on the 19th from Maldives and next few days are spent writing reports and price estimates for the proposed project in case it takes off. The funny thing happening is now that Mumbai Port Trust or the immigration (according to agent) is not issuing me a dock pass. I can sign on the yacht but not go ashore (unless e.g. visiting a Doctor). The other option I suggested then was to designate me as the ship superintendent and I got a pass but I could not stay overnight, I am told by the agent to stay at a hotel. Catch 22 situation...

Victoria Docks being filled up, a historical landmark soon gone

Old sheds being demolished at Victoria Docks

Further had to run to FRRO offices to apply for visa extension and here another problem arises in the form of paid taxes. As I receive my salary abroad to an offshore account I don't pay any taxes in India and explaining this to the bureaucrats was like explaining quantum mechanics to a slum dweller. Well, the 20th I stayed onboard overnight and nobody's alarm bells rang.

Basin being land filled at Victoria Docks

Old pilot boat

An era gone by

On the 21st the agent asks me 20.000 rupees for the visa extension, on the 23rd & 24th I still run in the FRRO office and the Tax office re: the tax issue. Our agent is proving to be useful like a donkey with tits. At least I get some real work done too as all UB boats are sent upstream to Belapur for the monsoon and I crash at Thomas place as we finish very late in the evening.

M/y Linse on the way to Belapur

Gateway of India, side view

25th is the final time I visit the FRRO office, they grant me a 3mths extension that can be extended another 9mths provided I get them the tax paper. Needless to say this is not going to happen and other things are brewing so I take it in my stride. No point in arguing with a desk person.

Mumbai architecture

26th I'm dealing with paperwork and in the evening I go to the Comedy Club at Phoenix Mills to watch some standup comedy with Anahita Marker, quite entertaining in the end. Afterwards we have a veg dinner at the Punjab Grill and I'm totally stuffed.

Mumbai architecture

Victoria train station

27th I prepare my final handover notes and am invited to a farewell dinner at Aashim's pad. On the 28th I start my handover and on the 29th I'm flying again, this time to Europe. I arrive at 2am Nice, France on the 30th May and take a taxi to Monaco to sign on Indian Empress. I arrive just in time to see all the festivities winding down and get my bags onboard and crash to start next morning as Chef Officer.

Male'

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 11 Feb 2012 09:22:25 PST

Next morning 17th I wake up and start phoning Mr. Shafeeq for finding out contacts on the Island. He appoints me one of his clerks to take me around, not a big job actually but better to go with one that has the local knowledge already instead of re-inventing the wheel.

Residential Is

Dolphins

Thilafushi Is.

So, I was picked up by Mr. Arish on his trusty Honda Dream and after a small discussion of what I wanted to see we started our round. I ended up visitin gon Maleä the Yamaha showroom, the Suzuki showroom, Northern Lights rep. and then the Furuno shop. After this we took the ferry over to the Thilafushi Island (unofficially called the Garbage Island as all waste is processed there (read: burned)) but it also houses all the heavy industry and services one could need on an Island. On the way I could see more underwater reef was being claimed for Thilafushi and Arish explained to me that all the godown's on Male' Island are being relocated in way of residential requirements.

Shiplift

Wooden dhoni

Once we arrived we went to see the Gulfcraft yard and met with their rep. and discussed a possible overhaul. Usually yards give slots out but here they told me that tell us when you want to come and we'll see...(!?). Well, I could see they were pretty full as they are the biggest yard with the largest lifting capacity and the season was coming to an end so there was a lot of boats queuing up for service. Our next stop was at UEL, they did not have the capacity to lift the yacht but they had a good refit jetty. The foreman was a paan chewing chap in his 50's and we spent half an hour chatting with him via Arish translation as well as sampling his paan. I learned that he was originally from Indonesia but had somehow stranded on Maldives in his early age. After this it was late lunch time and Arish took me to an eatery for the workers on Thilafushi, the facility was clean and airy and the food was really good, it came as a real surprise.

The UEL foreman & me

Modern glassfibre dhoni

On the 18th I meet with the underwriters, Mr. Deeptha from Ceylinco and discuss the premium of the yacht and chat with him for a good hour. The quote is fairly high for a yacht this size and Mr. Deeptha explains me that the claims in Maldives are massive on an annual basis, no underwriter will give any cheaper price. I have my doubts but I can well understand their point of view and I also believe there is a good number of accidents as well.

People waiting for the ferry

Rubbish trucks coming from Male'

In the afternoon I was supposed to see the dive dhoni but it is allegedly still at the other resort with steering gear problems (how convenient). At this point I have all my points on the list crossed out so I book my flight for the next day to depart for India. I also happened to get in touch with an old acquaintance, Ms Victoria Hilley who is working on a nearby resort as Marketing Manager. She invites me for dinner and get instructions of how to come to the Island by their ferry. I arrive at the staff jetty and am fairly soon picked up Victoria and we head for the Japanese restaurant on the resort. The setting is very nice as always is in Maldives and we order dinner accompanied with one bottle of sake. During the course of dinner we catch up on things that has happened since we last met in Langkawi in 2008. Soon she notices that the last ferry to Male' is about to leave so we hurry to the jetty and I say my goodbye until next time, time runs fast in good company.

Male'

Time travel available in Maldives

19th I wake up 8am for breakfast and prepare myself for taking the flight to Bangalore and onwards to Mumbai. All goes well and I arrive Mumbai at 7pm and get to spend the night in Elphinstone Hotel as I don't have a gate pass to board Kalizma now at the M-wall.

In Maldives

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:54:51 PST

Next morning I wake up at 6am to the sound of rain and I looked out it was raining as well as sun was shining. Luckily the rain shower passes quickly and I grab my goggles and snorkel and go for swim. The reef is pretty shallow to start with but I float carefully over all the razor sharp corals like a crocodile and finally reach the edge of the reef. There I start snorkeling along the edge watching the scenery below me. I swim slowly to the dredged marina, past it and around the Island to the other side and get out of the water at the shallow natural lagoon.

The open air bathroom

Swimming pool

From there I walk to the welcoming jetty and walk over to the dredged Islet. It is hard walking as the sharp coral bits try to penetrate my soles. A bit like walking on glass. I discover the Islet is more used as a garbage handling facility, there are several traces of burnt rubbish all over the water line. I think not very much in line according to rule of law but as the outfit is Maldivian maybe different rules apply.

Welcome jetty and walkway

Another view

I walk back to my cabana to have a shower and get ready for breakfast and the work we were supposed to do. The bathroom is an open area enclosed by 4 walls, pretty ingenious idea. At breakfast I get a masala omelet and enjoy it in the company of Cmde Mongia and after finishing our chai we walk off to find the Maldivian Captain.

Maldivian Catain & Cmde Mongia

The Island

Once we get hold of him we sit down and have a chat about the boats and we find out that the dive dhoni is not the one designated to the Island, it has been brought here from another resort as the other dhoni was only a year old. By the looks of the one now in the marina it is ready to sink anytime. Equally we were told that the speed boat is also old and in dire need of overhaul as well as the OBM's. Then when we come to the issue of the yacht that is connected tot he Island, it is 12year old Gulfcraft 86 Majesty bought secondhand. Last drydocking was 3 years ago and as the story goes on I see my to-do list grow mile long.

Corals

After this we ask the Captain to give us a seatrial so we could see the performance of the boat and how it is running.The Captain takes us onboard and the first thing I notice is the teak decks that have been oiled over and the peeling paint work, obviously yachting is not the forte over here. When we inspect the interior it all looks nice but almost nothing is working, aircon, sewage system, AV system, fresh water system etc. etc.

Frangipani

View from observation terrace

After this move onto propulsion/ electrical supply and we discover many gauges out of order. The gensets do not have any working gauges nor any safeties and the chug along sounding very tired. Finally we start the main engines and go for a spin. The engines run alright but when we come to higher revs it sounds like one engine is either over speeding or the clutch is slipping. We moor the boat back to the buoy and go back ashore our work done. I easily see a 300k USD overhaul looming at the horizon if we will take charge.

Residential Island next to Male'

Sunset over Male'

The afternoon goes on until late and we get ready to leave. We are greeted by our hosts and packed in the seaplane and soon enough we are flying towards Male'. Once in Male' I am ordered to stay back to find out what the repair facilities are in Male' as well as quotes for the possible work ahead. Mr. Shafeeq books me into the Mookai hotel and I settle in for the night as it is already late. I laugh to myself at the hotel name as directly translated to Thai it means Pork-Chicken, I reckon no self respecting muslim would want that in his hotel name...

Sign off Kalizma

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Wed, 08 Feb 2012 21:38:05 PST

So on the 12th I moved Kalizma alongsoide M-wall as directed by the Management. The trip from Gateway to he M-wall was short and went in a normal manner. Was chatting away with the pilot and had to bribe him with the usual whisky bottle as is customary.

Planes at the Hulhumale airport Island

Arial glimpse of Male'

On the 14th I sign off from Kalizma at the Yellow Gate police station. I was scheduled to fly to the Maldives to inspect an Island and it's water transport arrangements in light of opening a resort. I spend the night in Elphinstone Hotel again and have dinner in Balgi near the Yellow Gate.

Atolls enroute

15th morning early wake up call to make it to the Chhatrapati Shivaji airport. I was flying to Bangalore with Cmde Mongia to join other people that was going to the same destination but with other tasks. We land in Bangalore at abt 10am and are guided to the KFA lounge to wait for our connection. Slowly other people start to appear and dicussions start. At noon we get the call to get to the aiplane and we board the bus that takes us to the corporate airplane.

Sancia at the Filitheyo International

Our destination

Soon we take off and head for Male', the capital of Maldives. Our flight lasts for abt 2 hrs and I can soon see how we circle above Male's airport and the pilot is orientating himself for landing. Landing goes smoothly and we are met on the tarmac by our local agent and guide, Mr. Ibrahim Shafeeq of MVK. From here we are hustled into a small propeller plane, a de Havilland Twin Otter.

M/y Rania

Sun is setting

Soon we are taking off again, this time on sea and we are heading south for our destination. The flight takes abt 45 minutes and we land again in the sea and make fast to a pontoon that says "International airport". Soon after the plane has left we are picked up the Islands speedboat and it takes us to our destination. At the Island we arrive to a man made lagoon with a jetty and are greeted with a welcome drink.

Sunset

After walking around the Island a bit I and other guests were allocated their own beach cabana. The Island was not very big, actually it took barely 10 minutes to walk around it. At one end near the jetty there was another Islet that had come about when the marina had been dredged into the coral. The center of the Island was taken up by the auxiliary equipment and staff quarters. Those who does not know: it is compulsory by Maldivian law to generate your own power (by generators), making your own freshwater (reverse osmosis plants), sewage treatment (usually a biological plant) and garbage handling (usually by incinerating) before a resort can operate.

Sunset

As it soon grew dark I could not do much about the water transport inspection so I had the pleasure of meeting the Maldivian Captain in charge of the yacht that was sort of attached to the Island as a marketing tool. There was also the small speedboat and a glassfibre dive dhoni (a traditional boat of Maldives). Later in the evening we were served dinner and pretty soon after that people drifted off to their cabanas as I did too.

Kala Ghoda

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 20:27:58 PST

I had been wanting to buy the movie about Phoolan Devi after reading the book about her (author: Mala Sen). She was a notorious dacoit in the Uttar Pradesh backwaters that got embroiled in a bitter caste feud that ended in her allegedly killing several men in a village that had violated her. Later she surrendered and was imprisoned for several years, after her release she went into politics and was gunned down in the streets of New Delhi in 2001.

Maharashtra Police headquarters

Kala Ghoda

Army & Navy building

Kala Ghoda residences

The Rhythm House

Kala Ghoda residences

Victoria train station (actually not in Kala Ghoda anymore)

Anyway, I was advised by Sunil that the place to go was the Rhythm House in Kala Ghoda to find the movie, if anyone would stock it, they would. As it was close to the Gateway of India we went by foot and I was surprised that after such a long time I had not discovered this area in Mumbai, and it was so close too. Sunil explained that most building are Owned by wealthy Parsis that are very successful business people.

Once in Rhythm House I asked for the movie and got it in no-time. The shop was stocked up to the rafters with music, movies from every genre and every format.

Brunch in Mumbai

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 18:27:17 PST

On the8th Xerxes Dhunjeebhoy and Sunil had invited me for brunch to JW Marriott. It is a tradition in Mumbai to go out for brunch on Sunday's and so we were in a taxi heading up to Juhu in northwest Mumbai along the coast route. The brunch was starting at 12.30hrs until 16.00hrs.

Another example on Indian mass transport

The Sealink

At JW Marriott, Xerxes, Sunil & me.

When we arrived we were shown our booked table and so it started, ordered drinks and off to the buffet table. The spread that was on offer was incredible, every imaginable cuisine was available, my favorite, cheese, were there in many different flavors. And we ate so much, all the way until four o'clock.

Sunil, me & Xerxes

The Ambani "pad" Antilia that we passed on the way back

After we left the JW Marriott there was only one destination in our mind, our beds.

Those interested in the JW Marriott brunch can click here for more info.

BRYC closing regatta

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 05 Feb 2012 17:23:13 PST

On the 7th I was invited to participate in the Bombay Royal Yacht Club's season closing regatta. It is customarily done on the estimated last weekend before the rains start. The day was sunny and wind was there as well so all the elements were there for an enjoyable afternoon.

Cmde Mongia at the wheel

I boarded Cmde Mongia's s/y Ninikins as a spectator to compete with 2 other boats in the same size class and I was showed where I could sit without being in the way. The principle of sailing is not unfamiliar for me at all but the machinations of a bigger sailing yacht was new to me. As a kid I used to do a lot of optimist and windsurfing so I knew the basics.

Chetan Fernandes

The sailing crew was Nitin Mongia and Chetan Fernandes, both old timers in the sailing circuit in Mumbai and India if not even Internationally. Then there was a a local group following Nitin and Chetan to come and help as well as to enjoy the camaraderie of the friendly regatta.

Closing to the turning point

The boats circled about the start buoy and came into somekind of agreed pattern with the big boats leaving first and then the smaller ones. Then we waited for the yacht club officials to hoist the start flag and once it was up it was away with all boats. We took the lead at first and held it until we came with the wind from astern it was time to hoist the spinnaker. Unfortunately our old hands messed up the spinnaker and before it was untangled another boat had taken the lead.

M/y Kalizma

M/y Ashena

We tried to gain on the lead but the going was slow, at best we did 7 knots. Some distance was gained but in the end we came in on the 2nd position but the afternoon was not so much for competition, it was more of a social gathering and having fun one afternoon.

Back to Mumbai

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 22:13:54 PST

Like all vacations we have they always end and this day was my return to reality. I could not get any long mornings, not that I have the need for them anymore as in my youth when I could sleep until noon, now I had to get up and catch my flight to Mumbai.

Back to Mumbai

I was up and had a light breakfast and thanked my hosts for their hospitality and letting me stay in their house for these few days. It had been an interesting experience to visit Bengal even for this short period. Then I was out the door and took a taxi to the airport.

At the airport I managed to check in my luggage without any bigger problems and boarded the Kingfisher flight. We landed on time in Mumbai and I was met by our driver Santosh at the airport and he took me to the Gateway of India where I was met by the Kalizma tender and I was soon onboard and being greeted by Saini and other crew.

Map of M-wall

The day went on discussing handover notes and future plan of spending the monsoon in Trincomalee, Sri Lanka. Basically everything had been planned to the last detail, we only waited for the go ahead from our Management.

M-wall and a row of barges at it

3rd May Signed off Saini for vacation and i signed on at the Yellow Gate Police station, all went ok for once. Discussed various maintenance requirements scheduled for the monsoon with the office and met with Mishra Yogi from Yeoman Marine.

4th May Did seatrials with several smaller yachts related to Kalizma's management that was not very successful. My snag list became suddenly very long.

Later I inspected the M-wall at the Prince's Dock, the area was ok but not really a place I would bring a yacht alongside, at least not for a very long duration. Furthermore, I saw works were going along to reclaim land from Victoria Dock to Cross Island in way of the envisaged Container Terminal that was being developed against all odds. I'm surprised no environmentalist has cried foul yet.

Cross Island

5th May was spent chasing various work quotes.

6th May Met up with Mishraji at his office, our naval architect, and discussed stability issue for some minor engineering modification that involved some weight shifting. Later I was invited for lunch to a Punjabi Restaurant and had a delicious vegetarian lunch with Mishraji. Later in the afternoon I receive news that the Trincomalee relocation is cancelled. Kalizma will stay at the M-wall for the monsoon. In light of our last years experience it was not a very appealing decision in terms of maintenance.

Calcutta

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 08:11:57 PST

Well, again the early bird catches the worm, I was up at 6am and out the door as soon as I had my morning chores and cup of tea done. This morning I walked to the river side and headed south to the district where they manufacture straw dolls, mostly Hindu God idols, for temples and various processions. There was also pottery being made. I could see a multitude of shops and they had dolls in various stages of completion. First the torso of the doll is made of straw, then it is covered with mud. After the mud is dry more is applied to make the features. Finally the doll gets a wig, it is painted and decorated.

Krishna doll

Durga doll

Locals at morning wash

Local train line to the burbs

Unfinished dolls

Clay being brought to a shop

I could also see men sitting in front of a small box at regular intervals. After awhile I realized they were shavers, other men sat down on the box and they got shaved. As I also got a decent stubble I decided to have a go at it. It cost me 20 rupees, the view was of the river and the air was fresh. Once I continued down south I came to a ferry stop and I ventured on the pontoon to embark the ferry. The current was pretty strong, maybe 3 knots or more. After some time the ferry came and made to and I stepped on with the other passengers.

River view

Howrah train station

Local river ferry

Locals at morning wash

The ferry ride was nice, air was cool despite the ferry was fully loaded the Indian way. I managed to get an open air space so I could shoot some photos. Enroute I could see the whole Calcutta riverside until we arrived the other side at Howrah train station. I got off there and walked to look at the station, it is massive. Ogled it for awhile and then I made my way to the Howrah bridge and started walking over it back to the old town.

The flower market

Police bikes

Shops properly closed, each door with 5 or more padlocks

After the bridge I passed by the local flower market, it was huge as well. After that there were some industrial shop buildings and I came to the township of colonial Calcutta. I walked around and saw Shipping Building, Tobacco House, Insurance building, GPO and Writer's House (where the Chief Minister of Bengal resides), etc. etc. Some buildings like the Shipping building (only the facade remains) were in a quite dilapidated condition but I could see signs that there was going to be some reconstruction or refurbishment.

Tram

General post office

Writers House

Allahabad Bank

After awhile I think I ended up in Chinatown as I was passing through Sun Yat-Sen street and saw quite a few yellow faces and trading shops peddling Chinese wares. Next to Chinatown I there was a Muslim market that I walked through. At this point I decided I had enough of walking for awhile and needed somewhere to put down my feet.

The Shipping Building

State Bank of India

Entrance to Standard Life Assurance compound

Standard Life Assurance building

So, after an exhausting morning I went to the Esplanade to have some lunch at the Ashoka restaurant. Sat there for a couple hours enjoying my lunch and a few cold Kingfishers while contemplating my next move. I decided to go to the Marble Palace as my last feat of the day, so I paid my tab and got into taxi. The Marble Palace is a privately owned house by the descendants of a wealthy Indian merchant, Raja Rajendra Mullick, who was nuts about art and marble.

Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur

The fountain in the garden

Marble Palace

I went into the yard and was told by the guard that the residence is private and I need a permit from the tourism bureau to get in (which I did not have), but for a small fee he could let me go and look inside. Oh well, said and done I handed over his tea money and went into the building. I was told no photography allowed so my camera stayed in my pocket. The house was really stunning, a real palace on two floors. Marble patterned floors and art everywhere, paintings and statues mostly. The floors, though splendid with the marble patterns, were in dire need of restoration. There was so much to see in the house that I could not concentrate and the day was coming to an end so I exited the compound and headed for Shyambazar by Metro.

The Thalassaemia Society of India neighboring Marble Palace

Sign and gatepost

Once at Priyak Mitra Street I refreshed myself and took a small rest after which I headed out again and walked around Shyambazaar and Sovabazar looking at the local life for a couple of hours. It was already dark so it was not that interesting so I got back soon and retired for the night as I was leaving early next morning.

Calcutta

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 22:59:30 PST

Got up at cock's crow and made myself ready for a day sightseeing. After a quick cup of tea I headed for the Metro and bought a ticket for Kalighat station. Once there I started asking directions to the Kali temple the station is named after. Eventually I got to some kind of temple but it looked more like a park and next to it was some complex that was closed. Later I learned later that I had been in the wrong place. After walking around in circles there for awhile I took a taxi to College Road.

Sachin Mitra Lane

At College Road, as the name says, are a lot of learning institutions as well as book stores. Was hoping to buy something interesting to read but unfortunately I was out too early. Walked around and watched students having a dip in the pool that I suppose was dedicated for student sports. I came across a tram line so I grabbed a tram and rode over to the Esplanade.

Close to Shyambazaar

Calcutta traffic

Near Kalighat

College Road

From there I started walking towards Park Street and I was suddenly hijacked by a shopkeeper to come and look at his wares. I was totally non+committed but to humor him I decided to go and have a look. He had me sit down and offered Indian chai and started pulling out stuff that I was not in the least interested in. I was interested in Nepalese Gurkha knives, they had obviously been hand made, probably made in Nepal too but buying one in Calcutta was not my deal. I want to buy one in Nepal when I hopefully travel there someday.

Inside the tram

Calcutta tram bogie

My Tamil breakfast

Museum of India

Finally he presented some batiks and I took a fancy of a tapestry that was abt 1.5 x 2.0m long, it depicted Krishna with his women. The asking price was horrendous, something like 3800 rupees so I just took my bag and started to leave and the Owner became frantic and told me how much do I want to pay? I told him that I have no idea what these kind of things cost but I can't afford his asking price. He pleaded me to say something so I told him 1000 rupees. He went into another fit and I told him goodbye and started down the stairs, after 3 steps he said "OK, take it". As I was his first customer of the day he could not afford to have me walk out on the street without buying anything, it would spell disaster for the rest of the days business. I paid him and got my tapestry. I felt quite ruthless but nonetheless I think he made a profit.

Ceremonial Kali Mask

Mammoth found up in Punjab

LP's manufactured by lacquer produced in India (bug excreta)

Opium samples

Kali painting

Miniature of a Parsi "Tower of solitude"

Next I stopped in a antique store that was displaying brass figures. Being a sucker for such stuff I had to go in and see what was on offer. There were a lot of brass figurines from the smallest 1 inch to the biggest abt 1 foot tall. The shop Owner was an elderly fellow who loved to talk about his pieces and gladly showed them as well. Finally I settled on 3 figures from the Hindu mythology and the price came to abt 6000 rupees. It was a fair price as I had been earlier in Delhi, Mumbai, Goa & Cochin buying several similar size statues for same price more or less.

Calcutta Architecture

Old gramophone player in an auction shop

As I walked on I came across the Museum of India, the building was imposing and looked interesting so I ventured inside. The entry fee was a pittance and I started walking the halls of the big building. Even to try and explain what was on display would be worth of several novels, but in short I could say it is sort of a Smithsonian of India. There is a lot to see and learn although the building is in dire need of repairs and some of the exhibits are not least to say "tired". I spent there a few hours and started to suffer from culture shock so I decided to leave. I was walking around the streets aimlessly and eventually ended down south of Calcutta and my feet started aching so I took the Metro back to Shyambazar.

Rickshaws & bicycles were still popular ways of transport

Metro art @ Shyambazaar station

The evening was spent chatting with Priyak while we emptied his fridge of beer. The sleep was excellent after such a day.

Trip to Calcutta

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 04 Feb 2012 23:01:32 PST

On the 29th I flew to Calcutta from Bangkok with Kingfisher airline. Service was excellent and they were not stingy with the beer, King of Good times...

In Calcutta the taxis are yellow

I landed in Calcutta late afternoon and took a cab to Shyambazar where Priyak Mitra lives. He is the brother of a colleague, Ms. Tushita Patel, that I work with. Shyambazar is one of the oldest townships in Calcutta and I could well see that judging by the narrow and winding lanes that would make you loose orientation in no time. When I arrived Priyak's house only the housestaff was present as the patrons had gone for a function. I left my bag there and went out for a walk after a cup of tea.

Downtown Calcutta

Took Metro to Park Street where I walked around gazing at the architecture and various shops and street stalls peddling their wares. After awhile I arrived the Esplanade station and took the Metro back to Shyambazar. Once back at the house I was given dinner and I exchanged some news with my friendly hosts.

After awhile the elctricity was cut due to blackout so it was a good time to retire for the night.

Shyambazaar

Singapore

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 29 Jan 2012 02:35:54 PST

Woke up again early morning and got myself packed up and had some breakfast at the hotel before checking out. Then I rushed to the Thai embassy to pick up the letter for my ex and mailed it from nearest post office.

Thai embassy in Singapore

From there it was straight to Changi airport where I went to claim the GST for the camera I had bought. As it was in my hand luggage I had to go through immigration and claim it in the tax free area of the airport, not at the counter before immigration. I guess they are afraid the goods will come back onto the Island. Well, I went through immigration & went to the GST counter there and got my claim back in cash without any problems.

In the MRT on the way to Changi

After this I browsed the expensive tax free stuff for sale and waited for my flight and eventually the time came to board. I was lucky as I go the emergency seat and had plenty of leg room. Otherwise Silk air is not an airline to shout much about at home.

Inside Changi airport

Singapore

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 29 Jan 2012 02:36:40 PST

In the morning Lena dropped me off to Larkin bus station where I took the bus into Singapore. I arrived Queen Street at 0930hrs from where I took the MRT to the Thailand embassy as I had been asked urgently to provide a letter of consent to my deranged ex for applying new passport for our kids.

The neighborhood near the Cameron Hotel

MRT station, no rush hour yet

One of Singapore's Canals

After sorting out this issue I took the MRT to Simei station. I went to see my old agent and friend Angie Ng at her office. She gave me a hand in booking a hotel for me, Hotel Cameron 65SGD/ night, and then she invited me for lunch.

One of Singapore's shopping heavens (or hells)

We had a dim-sum lunch at the Kam Boat House, as usual the Cantonese cuisine is best when eating like this. After lunch we parted ways and I continued to my hotel for check-in. After this I ventured out on town and my first stop was at Golden Mile shopping center. Here I walked around and could see that the Thai hangout mall had changed into a Thai-Vietnam hangout mall. Could not see anything interesting here so I continued to Funan Center.

Orchard Towers

At Funan I splashed out on a SLR camera, Canon 550D EOS complete with flash and objective and filters. After burning my VISA with this I continued to Wheelock Place to look for some books at Borders, big store but mediocre selection in sci-fi, fantasy & horror. Maybe the genre doesn't sell with the squeaky clean Singaporeans.

Chinese God in front of Hilton

After Wheelock Place I went to Orchard Towers for a couple of drinks and could see that it was business as usual over there but quieter than it used to be when I went there first time some 10yrs ago. After the whole day of walking I decided to call it a night and took the MRT back to my hotel.

Johor Baru

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 29 Jan 2012 00:40:53 PST

Once again it was time to get on the move early morning. I packed my stuff and started towards the metro. It took awhile to find the station but thanks to some helpful denizens I managed to find it pretty easily. I arrived Bandar Tarik Selatan in good time and checked into my bus & got my boarding pass. When it was time to board the staff discovered that the card reader was broken so we got to walk onboard just like that.

Malaysian ladies getting into their car

On the way we stopped for lunch at a highway restaurant where i had some Nasi Ayam, quite delicious Chinese style dish. Then the journey continued and we arrived Johor Baru abt 5pm. I was met by my friend Lena and her son Syafeeq.

I spent the evening in their house in Pasir Gudang and played monopoly with Syafeeq and eventually lost, apparently I am not very business minded or maybe the dice did not favor me. Then I had dinner with Syafeeq and his father Zul. I had Nasi Goreng Kampong, very delicious dish compared to the ordinary "city" Nasi Goreng.

Then it was time to hit the sack as next morning I was going to Singapore.

Kuala Lumpur

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 23:11:55 PST

Next morning I got up early and moseyed over to the bus station and bought a ticket to Kuala Lumpur. It was just opposite the Chinese temple. Thats the benefit of a small town, no need to take a taxi anywhere, everything is walking distance. After abt 45min waiting the bus arrived to the platform and we rolled towards KL.

Downtown KL

The trip was uneventful and we arrived to the Puduraya bus station. It is huge and organised like an airport. Upon walking out of the station I saw some guesthouses on the opposite side of the street so I just walked over and took a room for 50RM/ night (common shower & toilet). Decided to buy a ticket to Johor Baru for next morning so I got that sorted before doing anything else, discovered that the bus is departing from Bandar Tarik Selatan, quite a distance from Puduraya but the clerk explained it would be easy to reach by metro. Oh well, could have waited before buying the room for the night.

Chinatown

After that I went walkabout in Chinatown on Petaling Jalan and noticed most shops selling fake and copied goods, quite pathetic actually as it is supposed to be a tourist attraction. The area is made up quite nicely and it resembled a bit like Singapore.

The Junk Book Store

I also stumbled across a bookshop selling second hand books that was stacked to the rafters with books on 2 floors. The shop was managed by 2 elderly Chinese ladies that had a remarkable sense of where everything was. I only needed to tell the name of the author and 5 minutes later she had a pile of books in front of me to choose from. Later I found they even got a website where they are touted as Malaysia's biggest second hand book shop. I can believe that.

The KL landmark, Petronas towers

Later I met with Angel, a cyber friend and she took me to Amway mall for some more cheap book shopping. Great shop and cheap prices. After that we had seafood dinner in Petaling Jaya at a Chinese food court. I had sting ray. After that it was already time to go back and Angel dropped me off at the guest house and I retired for the night.

Diving Sembilan

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 17:04:54 PST

Woke up next morning at 6am to get to my pickup. Ah Kong picked me up and we went to get some breakfast and duck for lunch. Soon enough we headed for the Lumut yacht club where Steven was now storing his boat. Last time it was at another location but I was told the Owner had gone off his rockers and was charging crazy money nowadays so all his customers had opted for better solutions.

Local fisherman

We went on with filling the boat with water, food and beer. After that followed dive gear, tanks, BCD's and the works. Then fuel and engines were checked. Soon enough all people were gathered and the boat was pulled in the water and off we went. The weather was very pleasant.

Pulau Hitam

By 0830hrs we were in position at Black Rock (Pulau Hitam) and we geared up. Chan handed me a spear gun and wished me luck. We all jumped in and dived Black Rock. The viz was not the best around and I eventually got a small snapper while Chan and Kong brought in 8-10 fish with the biggest being abt 4kg.

The fishermens catch

When moving to the next venue we came across a local fishing boat that was hauling in his net so we stopped and bought some shrimp, mantis shrimp and crabs from them.

Pulau Putih

Next in the program was White Rock (Pulai Putih) and same procedure followed. Unfortnately at 10m I noticed that I had forgotten the loading handle for the spear gun on the diveboat so I had to get up and went down again. In all haste I descended to 30m but came up to 10-15m. This time I did not kill anything as I did not come across anything interesting or I just simply missed.

Elvis cleaning shrimp

After the 2 dives we had enough fish to feed a platoon so we headed over to Pulau Lalang camping area and started unloading utensils and provisions. Soon enough the kettles were boiling and appetizing aromas were wafting through the air. It was time to feed. Fresh seafood as good as it gets. We all let loose on the delicacies and soon enough we were all sitting around contemplating the sumptuous meal.

Ah Kong and Ah Chan doing the tom yam

Tasting session

As other sat down and rested and chatted in Cantonese I took off to walk around the Island. I strolled down the beach looking at all signs of civilzation in the shape of discarded plastic bottles, slippers, tins, plastic bags and whatnot. After awhile the beach ended in a rocky outcrop and I found a path leading inside the Island. I did not need to venture far before the terrain started ascending steeply and I was going on 4-wheel drive in places. The higher I came the denser the brush became and I was crawling under the bush and over where it was suitable.

Pulau Lalang beach and mangroves

More jungle

Another view from the top

After some time I came to the top of the Island but could not see much anything as my view was obscured by the trees around me. I decided I was too old and heavy to start being Tarzan so after catching my breath for awhile I started back down again. Needless to say it was much easier and faster and eventually I lost my cap in all excitement and while hanging onto tree branches as not to go into free fall down the slope.

One of the rainforest trees

It's a jungle

View from top

Once down I was bathing sweat so I just continued straight into the sea for a cooling dip. It was so refreshing. Same time I could see that the guys had started breaking up camp so I ventured back to the camp site and came just in time to leave. On the way back we stopped at a few buoys and tried some fishing but it turned out nothing. Soon enough we made it to the Lumut Yacht club and were towed up on land.

On the way back home

The loot

Towing the boat into the boat shed

Fish had to be cleaned, dive gear rinsed and the boat engines flushed. The boat was flushed with freshwater and cleaned out of garbage. Then the loot was divvied up and everyone headed home for a shower to later meet in a karaoke.

Sunset over Pulau Pangkor

Lumut

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 03:15:24 PST

Next morning I got up and went hunting for cheaper lodging and soon enough I found a room down the road next to the Chinese temple at DJ Palace. I went down from 98RM to 75RM/ night. I have never been keen on spending on a bed as I only sleep in it (mostly).

Then next mission was to get my Malaysian SIM card working as the one I had bought in Ipoh had not activated for some reason. I waltzed over to the Maxi's offcie and got that issue sorted as well. Then it was time for some lunch and strolling around Lumut. It was a fast stroll as Lumut is still a one horse town and nothing much had changed from the last time.

Michelin Star Chinese Restaurant

In the evening I as picked up Steven and taken to Sitiawan Michelin Chinese Restaurant for dinner. As usual Chinese food is always spectacular and plentiful. I also met the rest of the hooligans, Chan, Kong and their better halves. There was no shouting of Cantonese expletives as on the dive boat. I had been a few times before in the same restaurant and the food is superb. After dinner it was time to retire as we had set the dive for the next morning at the Sembilans.

Those interested in the Michelin Star can click here. (Really delicious looking dish photos on the site).

Going to Malaysia

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 02:50:59 PST

15th I was on the way to Hat Yai as my Thai visa was expiring and I needed to exit the Kingdom of smiles. I had a rendez-vouz with the hooligans in Lumut. I was dropped off in Hat Yai bus station where I bought a ticket to Ipoh as there were no buses to Lumut so I chose the biggest city close-by. I bid my friends goodbye and boarded the bus that soon enough filled up and we were on our way.

News clipping in bus station of how the city was flooded just a few weeks ago

After a couple of hours we arrived to the Thai-Malay border control and we had to get off the bus for immigration procedures. I guess something went wrong as I lost the bus crowd at some point and walked over to the Malaysian side. There is stood waiting for nearly an hour before the bus came. I was lucky I had not missed the bus as my bag was on it.

Border of Thailand - Malaysia

The journey continued and we stopped for a lunch break at a highway restaurant. I got some Nasi Goreng as it is pretty safe to eat and avoid Delhi belly, somehow people tend to get more sick in Malaysia than Thailand, maybe something to do with different bacteria or standards of hygiene. After lunch we continued, the highways in Malaysia are great, smooth, wide and straight and you can put your pedal to the metal and cruise although max speed is set to 120km/h.

Late afternoon we passed through Penang where we stopped and let off many passsengers as well as new ones embarked. It was late evening abt 7pm and we were getting closer to Ipoh and I told the driver to let me off somewhere it would be easy to get into town. He dropped me off at a highway rest station seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Luckily there was a toilet and prayer room complex being attended by municipal cleaners and I managed through them to order a taxi as I did not have a Malaysian SIM card yet. It was notable that the young chap who called the cab for me declined a tip I was offering.

The cab came and I told him to take me to down town Ipoh, while driving he was chatting away and weaseld out of me info that I was actually going to Lumut. Well, he made me an offer I could not refuse so we stopped in Ipoh to buy a SIM and continued to Lumut. It was not really that far, we arrived Lumut in abt 45min and I booked into the Waterhill hotel next to Jook's Joint Bistro. After settling in and washng off the dust I went out for a late dinner at Jook's Joint and I could not believe that I met people from 2 years back when I had drydocked Kalizma there. There were still plenty of Finnish expats working on the floating hotel project that by now I suspect was seriously behind schedule.

After a few relaxing beers and a pizza I headed back to my hotel room and retired for the night.

Songkran

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 22:37:35 PDT

13th was the last day of Songkran in southern Thailand and people were out in force enjoying water games. In this spirit we also put 4 barrels of water in the back of the pickup and went driving to Pakmeng. The beach was packed with people and cars with people in the back throwing water at each other.

Water terrorists on wheels

At some places we had to stop and were smeared with scented powder by the people, at other places we stopped and filled up our barrels for a small sum of money or sometimes for free. This carried on along the road, soon enough we turned around and headed for Huai Yod, same thing was going on there too.

"Watering" stop

After been throwing water for 3-4hrs everyone was feeling the sun and strain so we headed back home, I discovered I had 2nd degree burns on my nose and forehead. Some New Year...

Festivals In Thailand, including: Songkran, Public Holidays In Thailand, Loi Krathong, Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival, Asalha Puja, Wan Awk Pansa, ... Pee Ta Khon, Khon Kaen Silk Festival, Vassa

Sa Morakot revisited

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 22:02:17 PDT

On the 7th the rains let up a bit and we decide to do an outing to the emerald and blue waters of Sa Morakot. It was cooling to swim in the pool and eventually I lost my wrist watch that had been given as birthday present by the crew on Kalizma. Naturally it was interpreted that the spirits had been in action and were the real culprits of the disappearing.

Walking to the pools

Stranded dugong?

One of the huge rainforest trees

The Blue pool

More jungle

This one was enormous

Emerald pool in the distance

The nature trail

Afterwards we had a late lunch at a local restaurant and the Moo Pad Ped (Spicy fried pork) was so hot I had tears in my eyes after tasting one small spoon. Even my friends who are accustomed to spicy stuff had a big time dealing with it.

Vacation

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 11 Dec 2011 22:48:59 PST

After arrival Mumbai it was time for me to take some time off and on 17th I flew to Thailand and arrived just before midnight, it was half past three in the morning before I was home.

N. Zsa Zsa - cat in the pot

18th Went to Krabi for some shopping.

19th went to Trang city.

The 3 famous monkeys

20th went to Pakmeng beach for seaside seafood dinner.

Pakmeng beach

21st & 23rd went to Krabi again

24th went to Trang to pick up Jira's new car, Ford Fiesta. Nice drive. It was my second time in my life that I witnessed a brand new car, it is an exhilarating feeling driving the car off shop premises with a brand new smell. Later in the afternoon the car was blessed in the southern Thai style by a local "holy man".

Car being blessed

Ford Fiesta

25th drove to Phuket and went to see Marina Managers Nick and Zara at Yacht Haven. It was quiet but it was low season too. Latest news now was that the Island resort development just north of Ao Po Marina had gone belly up. It was a pity as the marina they were building there was really spectacular.

Later on I met with K. Chatchai, my stainless steel guy who had done numerous jobs on Kalizma. He was now working on refitting local diving boats and was a happy father as he had recently gotten more family addition.

K. Chatchai & me

26th I had dinner at a new Korean restaurant in Central Festival, Sukishi, it was very delicious and spiced up for the Thai taste buds.

27th had early Thai pork lunch in Sam Kong, best shop in the area is run by a couple and it can be spotted by the large vats of pork being boiled up in front, they serve it all ways you can imagine. Three floor pork, boiled pork soup, pork in red sauce etc. etc. Then stocked up on some reading in Patong and headed back home to Trang.

Flooding in southern Thailand

28th onwards southern Thailand is hit by heavy rains and floods at many locations. Our house is spared as it is on high ground. I vegetate at home until 6th April because it is mostly raining.

Departure Lakshadweep

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 07:10:09 PDT

The morning 14th is the last time I go and drop off the security detail and I pick up the last batch of curry and parotha's. Soon enough we send our guests to the airport and it is time for us to settle the bureaucratic matters with locals and have a breather.

The parotha and fish curry cook in front of his tools of the trade

We have time enough so some crew are given opportunity to dive the Fish soup site and other opts for having a stroll on Agatti Island. I'm content in nursing my flu.

Agatti police station

Road to the jetty

It was an interesting sojourn to one of the most remote territories of India. The sad part was that we did not have the opportunity to see more Islands due to the recent piracy clashes with the Indian Navy and pending piracy threat from Somalia. They are now a real scourge of the Indian Ocean in their own right as per the current statistics and news.

Local cargo ship being unloaded

The western jetty on Agatti

Late evening we have everything cleared out, tenders on deck and ship is secured for sea. We heave up anchor and depart for Mumbai.

Tinakara Island, Lakshadweep

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 06:34:06 PDT

The morning starts with same routine of changing security details and picking up a hefty lot of fish curry and roti's for Indian breakfast.

Local cargo ship in the Agatti Is. lagoon

Meanwhile I have come down with a heavy head cold so diving is out my activities. In the afternoon we dive near Bangaram Island (SW side) and is according to all divers the best site so far. I could see bottom fairly clearly and there are deep rifts in the corals where the divers find small grottoes where the fish and other creatures hide.

Morning walk on Agatti Island

Local boat named after the pan-Islamic Indian Independence fighter

Next step in program is to set up BBQ on Tinakara Island and that takes us some time as we have to negotiate the coral reef between Tinakara and Bangaram, luckily most of it is buoyed to the resort that is at Bangaram but after that the rest goes solely on having a lookout sitting on the bow and showing the way.

Seasonal algae growth in the Tinakara lagoon

Coconut store

As we passed Bangaram a lot of people crowds the beach. According to our diveguide, Sikandar, they are local inhabitants of the Island and many have no jobs now when the resort is closed due to some business deal gone sour. The case is in court pending decision, meanwhile the resort stays closed. Well, I suppose they have gone back to their old profession of fishing and coconut harvesting.

Tinakara Island

We set up the BBQ and I walk around the Island, it is fairly big and in the middle is a couple of huts that is probably used for coconut storage and is also having signs of intermittent habitation as I can see fish hanging on a line for drying. It looked like it had been hanging there for quite awhile though.

After some time I meet a group of locals, they speak no english but with some sign language I get them to pick a few coconuts for me. The climbing technique still baffles me, I recall trying it out in 2007 in Maldives but still could not get up the trunk, I guess I'm more of a gorilla despite being born in the year of the monkey.

Coconut picking

At the beaches I can see countless empty bottles of alcohol, interesting considering Lakshadweep is a muslim community with zero tolerance policy.

William is also completing the started dive course and the two students are ecstatic having concluded their first dive.

Alok, my 3rd Officer

As the sun starts to set we pack up and make our way back to the ship, it would not be fun navigating the channel in the dark as it is lined with huge coral boulders just under the surface. Once we are in the channel we floor it and make it back just in time.

In the evening we go for night fishing with a local fish expert of some kind. No matter how many times we change fishing grounds the fish still eludes us. Eventually the night breeze becomes quite strong so we head back for the ship and call it a night.

Lakshadweep, Agatti Island

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Thu, 14 Jul 2011 05:31:46 PDT

So early morning we were carrying back the BBQ stuff and cleaning and packing it where every item belongs. Towels and chair covers to the laundry, crockery to the pantry and galley and so on. At last we knock off and get our well deserved rest while the night shift crew deals with the small things and cleaning up the yacht.

Sunset over Agatti Island

I got up in the morning for the change of security detail and curry and parothas. Later, me, Willie and Sikandar take out students to do their pool exercise for their PADI course. We take the tender to the entrance of the Agatti lagoon and anchor in 1m of water that will do instead of the pool. Willie and Sikandar gets into their stuff while I watch over the operation and sneak a few minutes of snorkeling. It is not very interesting as the bottom is more or less dead with a great deal of rubbish spread about, I can see some fish but thats about it.

When one ventures further into the lagoon you can find there are a lot of turtles living in it, big buggers swim away from your boat when you approach and you can also see them coming up to the surface for air. Turtles, unlike in Maldives, are not eaten in Lakshadweep. Yesterday when scouting out the route to Tinakara I saw two of them mating and Sikandar informs me that this is the mating season for them.

Once we return onboard it is just to change dive sets and be ready for diving the Solar site, used set are taken out and full sets put onto the tender. The dive site is only a few miles south of IE and was very much like the yesterdays dive at the Fish Soup. Once we return back onboard again we get to prepare for a beach BBQ at Sea Shells. Same gear is once again loaded onto tenders and minivans and crew gets into beach wear to set up the party.

I get a few hours of rest and I go and relieve Alok form the beach and stay there until the end. There is a fresh evening breeze blowing and my waterlogged sinuses don't like so I feel like I'm coming down with a head cold. The breeze continued until the early morning hours and I was done by when we packed up for the night at 3am.

Lakshadweep, history, religion, and society

Diving Solar

noreply@blogger.com (Jari Lindgren) — Mon, 09 May 2011 20:44:10 PDT

The 12th we dived the Solar site, name is due to the solar power plant next to it. It was just a few miles more south from the Fish Soup.

Pretty much the same as the previous dive at Fish Soup, there is a lot of fish here but the corals are not that spectacular as in Maldives due to bad bleaching some time ago. I could see signs though that the corals are slowly recovering but it is slow growing.

There is also a lot of Napoleon Wrasse among many other species but they are quite camera shy, so it is hard to catch them on the lens.

I let the pictures speak for themselves again:

Fish

Aliens are here

Landscape

More fish

...and more...

Like moon landscape

...more moon coral...

...landscape...

Sea star

Lil' fishie

Tuna

The big one is a parrot fish

Lil' fishie

Lil' fishies