Czech Please

La Adelitas Restaurant

2009-11-08T02:07:00.027+01:00

"This is like deja vu all over again." Yogi Berra

Three months ago, I wrote about the Mexican food delivery service, Las Adelitas. It was a mixed bag, and normally, I wouldn't revisit something so quickly.

But right after I did that post, I found out they were going from delivery only to opening an actual restaurant in Vinohrady.My curiosity meter jumped. I went three different times to check it out. It was a tiny place, just seven or eight tables. There were also a few spots by the bar.I was sorry to discover they served Stella Artois (.5 liter/35 CZK) and Staropramen (.5 liter/28 CZK). Not my favorite beers, but I had a Staro.It was nicely cold and crisp

They had a few varieties of margaritas. First, I tried the classic (89 CZK) without salt.It was tiny, but I really liked it. The drink was both very tart, sweet, and packed a little punch.

Unfortunately, it was gone all too fast. I know tequila isn't cheap, but the price seemed high for how small it was.

I also tried the mango margarita (99 CZK).There was sweet mango nectar and tequila in a glass rimmed with sugar instead of salt. There was also more liquid in the glass than with the classic. It was good, but you really have to like sugary drinks.

V tried a glass of red wine (29 CZK).She said it was fine, nothing special, but she couldn't believe the price. A real bargain. She even told the waiter they should charge more.

On my first visit, I looked at the menu and saw that there really aren't any offerings that could be called appetizers or starters. The only thing that comes close is the Sopa Azteca (49 CZK).The salty-sour broth contained shredded chicken tortillas, white cheese (Balkan style, the only thing close to a Mexican cheese), and dried red chilis that were quite chewy. Yes, it was spicy, but not overly so, even when I chomped on those peppers. The chicken was fresh and tender. I'd get it again.

Then, I ordered my favorite dish at Prague's other real Mexican spot, Fosil. That would be the Tacos Al Pastor (169 CZK).You get three soft corn tortillas filled with chunks of pork marinated in Pastor chili sauce. I admit I was dubious about the combination of fresh pineapple, onion, and cilantro before I had it the first time. But it is quite delicious.

My regrets with this version were that the meat was tough, it was barely warm, and they don't have the great hot sauces on the side that Fosil has.

Pineapple juice is supposed to break down the protein and make the pork tender, but it didn't happen here. Still, I'd say it was my favorite of all the dishes I tried.

On my next visit, I had the Burrito de Cochinita with pork (145 CZK).The meat was marinated with achiote, which is usually a paste of annato, coriander and cumin seeds, with black pepper and oregano.

The pork was succulent and tender, with lots of flavor. I enjoyed the black beans inside. What I didn't love so much was the leaves of iceburg lettuce wrapped up in there.I asked the waiter if that was how they did it in Mexico. He said no -- that it was usually served outside the burrito, but they put it inside to cater to local tastes. Too bad. It would be better without.

On the side was a green chili sauce, red rice, and black beans. The burrito also had lovely vinegared red onions on top.

On my last visit with V, I ordered the Enchiladas (169 CZK). They offer a green sauce and a red sauce, but I got the mole.This one was sweeter than some I've had. It was thick, spicy, and yes, just a little bit like a chocolate sauce. It was less weird than you think, but I like sweet and savory dinner dishes more than most people.

On the other hand, the chicken inside the rolled corn tortillas was too bland and a little dry.

V tried the Quesadillas Adelitas (169 CZK). There were three varieties -- pork, chicken or vegetarian, but you can get one of each, which is what she did.These were not quesadillas like any I had had before. First, two didn't have cheese as far as I could tell. Second, they were like fried corn meal turnovers, rather than the pan-fried tortillas I'm used to. They were topped with onions and Balkan-style cheese.

Again, the pork was the best, with the most flavor.Again, the chicken was dry and bland.And the vegetarian was filled with just mashed potato and cheese.It really was not tasty or interesting at all. Just greasy and heavy. Being from New York, it reminded me of a knish, if that means anything to you.

The service was always quick and very friendly. The waiter and manager always walked around the small place, asking people how they liked their food, getting feedback and having short conversations. Lots of smiles.That's very different from the service at Fosil. I like the Fosil's food, but the glacial pace and forgetfulness of the service often dissuade me from making a visit.

Las Adelitas Restaurant had many of the same dishes as their delivery service, with a few nice additions.

The dining area was too bright for my taste. They played good Mexican music, but ambiance was somewhat lacking. I've heard they are going to work on that.

I'd go back again, and I'd order anything, as long as it was anything made with pork.

And if you read my earlier Las Adelitas review, it's like deja vu all over again.

Las Adelitas Restaurant
Americká 8
Prague 2
Tel: (+420) 776 805 317

Luka Lu

2009-10-25T04:40:00.043+01:00

"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” Mark Twain

I eat out all the time, and I'm always searching for something new and different. The list of places that I return to after more than a couple of visits is rather short.

When we're floating around Malá Strana and hunger strikes, we'll usually end up at one of three places: Little Whale for moderately priced international cuisine, Noi for some of the better Thai food in the city, or Luka Lu for Croatian comfort food.We were at Luka Lu, which means "Harbor Lu," twice in the last few months.

The first time, it was still warm, so we sat in their green, leafy garden in the back.It's rather unique in that they keep a variety of colorful birds there. They provide entertainment by jumping, flying, and squawking around.I suppose someone might find them annoying or distracting. But most kids, like me, love 'em.

The waiter started us out with good, chewy, crusty bread.With it came two types of cottage cheese-like spread. One was plain, the other was mixed with garlic and paprika.The cheeses had a smooth, clean flavor. It was a much nicer alternative to butter. Just be aware, this nice start had a price. There was a 35 CZK per head cover.

V got a mixed salad, which was mostly tomatoes and cucumbers (65 CZK).It needed dressing. I had to hunt down some oil and vinegar. It was very simple, and V thought it was a little too expensive for what it was.

I've had a number of great starters here in the past, including the prosciutto and melon (175 CZK) and the roasted pepper stuffed with cheese (145 CZK). I first posted about this restaurant more than two years ago and wrote about some of these dishes.

For a main course during our garden visit, I had calamari cooked on a lava grill (245 CZK). This is one of my favorites.The little squid were tender and smoky, not overcooked. There was a generous portion. And on the side was a lovely olive oil mixed with chopped fresh basil. A simpler but enjoyable version of pesto.

On the side, I had the American-style potatoes (55 CZK).This is a common feature on Czech menus, but the uninitiated should know that they are American only in the sense that French fries are French. They were a bit greasy, and a little bland. They're not the kind of potatoes you'd eat with ketchup. But I often order the condiment, ajvar, with them.

V loves a lot of the seafood dishes at Luka Lu, especially the octopus (385 CZK). It is baked and comes with what V describes as a "Balkan ratatouille." She also loves the "Spaghetti al'Gambari" (215 CZK). That's made with shrimp, basil, Parmesan, and cherry tomatoes.

But at this meal, she ordered the grilled dorade (355 CZK). The fresh, sweet meat was grilled to perfection.It was not fishy at all. There was some lemon and the olive oil with basil on the side. Again, simple but right.

On our second, more recent visit, we sat inside.The restaurant is full of brightly colored kitsch.The doll house decor is not my favorite, but some people love it. It does have its cheerful aspects. Even on the ceiling.V had a couple of glasses of white wine (85 CZK each).I was annoyed they don't serve Mattoni in .33 liter bottles.

Instead, they have those tiny .2 liter bottles of Bonaqua that do not quench my thirst, but parch my wallet. I boycott Bonaqua. So we ordered a .75 liter bottle of Valser sparkling mineral water (115 CZK).

V ordered the dorade again. I chastised her for not ordering something different so as to offer a greater variety of information for you, the reader.

However, the fish itself was as good as ever.She was not happy that the balsamic syrup that was under the fish on the first visit was now on top of it. She's a purist and didn't want uninvited flavors interfering with her fish.

I decided I wanted pljeskavice -- Balkan ground and grilled meat. But there was mix up. They have two kinds. There was the "Gourmet Pljeskavice" made with Eidam cheese and bacon (225 CZK). And there was just "Pljeskavice" stuffed with cream cheese (235 CZK).

When the waiter took my order, I had already closed my menu, so I said I wanted the "normal" one, meaning I didn't want "Gourmet." I should have been clearer, but "Gourmet" was what he brought me.A debate then ensued between V and the waiter about whether "Gourmet" meant "normal" and whether the waiter should have asked if he wasn't sure what I wanted. The discussion was rather odd and somewhat unpleasant as the waiter was defensive.

I said I'd eat the one that was served. In all honesty, I didn't like it so much. It had a pronounced bacon flavor, which I liked, but the meat patty was thick, tough, and chewy, and the cheese was on the rubbery side. I had grilled potatoes (45 CZK) on the side, which were a bit overcooked.Knowing Luka Lu as we do, we wouldn't let a few problems stand in the way of a return visit. We've had plenty more positive ones over the years.I will say V likes the restaurant more than I do.

She has had many meals there without me. As I said, she's a big fan of some of their seafood dishes.

It's not a cheap place -- our bills there average 1000 CZK for two. But we almost always feel we are getting value for money.

When navigating the treacherous, touristy restaurant scene of Prague, most people find a safe harbor at Luka Lu.

Luka Lu
Újezd 33
Malá Strana
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 257 212 388

Pescheria Adriatico

2009-10-18T03:01:00.030+02:00

"Sell a man a fish, he eats for a day, teach a man how to fish, you ruin a wonderful business opportunity." Karl Marx

I have no manifesto, but I do have a mission: To eat, drink, and spread the wealth, so to speak, of my experiences.

I am determined to interpret this vague and self-assigned mandate as broadly as possible. In part, that is because I get bored easily. I don't like conventional limits.

So I write about food festivals, sausage stands, coffee houses, and yes, specialty food shops. In the past, I've done posts about Cheesy, Thai's Asian Food Shop, Aromi La Bottega, and a number of others.

Now, I'll tell you about Pescheria Adriatico, a new fish shop in Žižkov.I was tipped off by a trusted source, my neighbor, Pivobud.

He was pretty excited. Having a place that sells fresh fish in this part of town would save much traveling, if not money. One of the few other purveyors of good quality stuff, SeafoodShop, is down on Zborovská in Prague 5 -Malá Strana. There's another outlet in the Palladium shopping mall.

They are not cheap. They are not close.

I was very intrigued and went down for a look on a Saturday. The cases at Pescheria were not too full, but the stuff looked good.The place is still getting off the ground. Pivobud did some great intelligence work, interrogated one of the owners, and discovered the following:

The fish is currently delivered every Friday morning, so Friday's or Saturday morning (even though they have no posted hours for Saturday) is the best time to go. Avoid Thursdays unless they get more delivery days.There were two gentlemen who seem to be running the place. One is an Italian who apparently speaks French and some broken English, and a Czech guy who gave a lot of details about the shop.

It appears they are supplying some restaurants with their catch. Pivobud saw a leaflet for Pescheria Adriatico on the counter at Osteria da Clara.

Since they're connected with the Adriatic fishing community and bring their fish from an Italian coastal market, you can special order anything you want. You just have to let them know by Tuesdays and be willing to spend at least 500 CZK.

On my visit there, I picked up a dorade for V (400 CZK/kilo).This beautiful, clear-eyed fish cost 170 CZK.

V prepared it by slicing its sides, stuffing the cuts with cloves of garlic, then coating it with olive oil, salt and rosemary.

She cooked it under our oven's broiler.The flesh was pronounced delicate and delicious. Not fishy at all.

V told me that if I bought calamari, she'd clean and cook them (630 CZK/kilo). I jumped at the offer.I got all they had left in the shop, just a third of a kilo. The cost was 223 CZK.

I soaked them in milk. Then, after a dusting of flour, salt, and pepper, I flash fried them. They came out golden and delicious.They were not as buttery soft as calamari I've had in the USA. These were more firm and had a bit of snap to the flesh. But the taste was clean and light -- excellent along with some chili dipping sauce.

I didn't think the calamari would be enough for me, so I indulged and bought a slice of Pescheria's wonderful-looking tuna (1250 CZK/kilo).This filet cost me 253 CZK. I compared the price with the fish shop in Palladium, and they were almost the same. So, no great bargain here.

I got the first cut from the middle of a long piece of tuna, so it was really pristine -- a beautiful ruby red. I marinated it in soy sauce mixed with wasabi and lightly seared it on my cast iron grill.It picked up a sweet, smoky flavor along with some black stripes.

Then, I sliced it up, and dipped the pieces in soy sauce mixed with wasabi.My presentation could use work, but the flavor, which is what really counts, was perfect.

I'm not a big expert on what fish markets charge, but Pivobud called it "the best value for money in town."

His bill for four medium-size sea bass, almost two kilos, along with half a kilo of peeled shrimp, and 10 fresh anchovies, cost slightly under 1300 CZK.

He thought his catch that day would've cost double somewhere else.

Since neither of us knows a good place to fish in this particular part of Prague, I think there will be plenty of people for Pescheria Adriatico to sell to. They just need to expand their offerings and get more regular deliveries.

A wonderful business opportunity, I'd say.

Pescheria Adriatico
Bořivojova 11
Prague 3 - Žižkov
Tel (+420) 603 447 632

Mlýnec - Forum 2000 Gala Dinner

2009-10-13T07:30:00.010+02:00

“There's always something suspect about an intellectual on the winning side.” Vaclav Havel

I'm not a VIP, but every once in a while I get to pretend. Like last night.

V and I had the pleasure of attending the Forum 2000 Gala Dinner at the restaurant Mlýnec.

We'd been to this restaurant several times before. I'd always found dinner there enjoyable. The food was always good, though not quite as spectacular as the prices. Perhaps the most impressive thing about the restaurant is its close up view of the Charles Bridge.Last night's meal was a fixed menu for the 100 or so dignitaries. Unfortunately, given the dictates of decorum, I didn't take any food photos.

There was an amuse bouche of a small mushroom tart (nice), a quail and mushroom risotto starter (very nice), a main course of salmon wrapped around a white fish with teriyaki sauce (not so nice, not a salmon fan), and a warm apple and cinnamon tart with walnut ice cream for dessert (V's favorite part).

There were quite a few actual VIPs at the dinner, including Czech Prime Minister Jan Fischer, who made a speech, and many friends of Vaclav Havel, who started Forum 2000 when he was Czech president.

I figured I could get away with taking one picture during the evening -- so forgive me that it is not of my quail or salmon.Here's a shot of Vaclav Havel and Sir Bob Geldoff, who sat quite close to us, immersed in postprandial conversation.

Kavala Greek Restaurant

2009-10-11T02:29:00.035+02:00

"A good decision is based on knowledge and not on numbers." Plato

V had wanted to try Kavala, the Greek restaurant in the Dejvice neighborhood, for a long time.She first noticed it when we ate across the street at Da Emanuel.

We had some time on a warm and sunny weekend day, so we headed over and found a table outside.Unfortunately, the tables were in the shadow of the interesting-looking brick building. Da Emanuel is on the sunny side of the street.

Our friendly, young waiter brought us some tasty, crusty, chewy bread.It came with excellent green olives stuffed with almonds and pit black olives. We both preferred the green.

I ordered a large sparkling mineral water. We received a .75 liter blue bottle of Zagori, a Greek brand (95 CZK).It had a hint of salinity. Despite its Hellenistic provenance, I would have prefered Mattoni, but it was fine.

V generally likes to keep costs down and usually has decent luck ordering the house wine. So she got a .2 liter glass of the house red.Great color. I took a sniff and was pleased. I took a taste and was even more impressed. Wonderful stuff.

I didn't ask exactly what it was, but based on some text on the receipt, I believe it was the Nico Lazaridi Merlot. I'll get back to you about the price later.

We decided to split an appetizer, the Thalasinos Mezes, a mixed seafood plate (320 CZK).The presentation was very attractive. The portions of each item were quite small, and the plate looked sparse for the price. But almost every bite was delicious.

I particularly like the grilled octopus. Next, we savored the perfectly seared scallop. It rested on creamy, tangy taramosalata. We wished for more of both.

There was calamari in a white wine and fish roe sauce. The squid was fresh, but just a tiny bit rubbery. I prefer the texture when it is lightly grilled. The sauce was very nice.

Our least favorite, but still OK, were the grilled shrimp on top of a little bowl of orzo. The shrimp were just too insubstantial, both in size and flavor.

On the side was a terrific olive oil. There was also a tomato sauce in a spoon, which looked like ketchup but was less sweet and had spices that tasted like cinnamon.

For my main course, I went for the pork souvlaki (210 CZK). It was creatively served on a skewer, suspended between two metal posts.In between the meat were grilled red onions and green peppers. Underneath, there was a great tzaziki-like yogurt mixed with fresh, chopped mint.

It was great and combined perfectly with the juicy, smoky meat. Again, I wished there was more of the condiment. The pork was tender, and I enjoyed it more than the souvlaki at Taverna Olympos, which can be tasty but dry.

V ordered the lamb in a spicy tomato sauce with baked potatoes (350 CZK). She loved this dish.The sauce was not very spicy, but had some interesting seasoning. The potatoes were buttery goodness. On the other hand, I found the dish too salty, and thought the meat was a little stringy. She didn't let my negativity get her down and savored every bite.

I felt the need for dessert and desired something cocoa related. I got the Chocolate Passion (110 CZK).The menu said it was made with Swiss chocolate, and I believe it. It was a mini-binge for a serious chocoholic.

The dessert was smooth and rich, with a single cherry, syrup, and Greek candies on the side. There was only one small issue -- the chocolate bars were slightly dry and crumbly.

I knew this restaurant was more upscale than your average Greek joint, so I was expecting a higher bill than I'd get at one of those places. But I was still surprised when I saw the damage: 1493 CZK.

I looked at the various items on the receipt. There was a 20 CZK cover charge per person. Not a heavy hit, but I hate when restaurants have covers. However, it was easier to stomach than the 45 CZK per person cover at Al Dente.

But my eyes popped when I saw the charge for V's two glasses of red wine. They were 184 CZK each. Sure, it was great. I'd even say it was worth the money. But the issue was that we didn't want to spend that much. V called over the waiter.

"Yes, is there a problem?" He asked.

"I said I wanted the house red."

"That's what I served you," the waiter replied.

"Yes, but I wanted an inexpensive wine."

"That's the cheapest wine we have by the glass."

"Really? Well, if that's the case, you really should have mentioned the price. House wines in other restaurants are almost always quite cheap by the glass."

She did all this with a smile. Then, she teasingly said to the naughty waiter, "You, you, you."

It was pretty cute in Czech. She has this charming way of telling people they screwed up without turning it into an unpleasant scene. For us, anyway.

"His ears turned bright red, she said as he walked away.

We really enjoyed almost everything about our meal at Kavala.

I don't regret our decision to try it, and we'd go again.

But know this: V related the wine incident to a colleague. It so happened that the colleague had also eaten there. And he had the exact same experience of surprise when he saw the price for a glass of "house" wine. He wasn't happy about it.

So, I can only partially agree with Plato. A good decision is, indeed, based on knowledge. But that includes a knowledge of the numbers.

Kavala Greek Restaurant
Charlese de Gaulla 5
Prague 6 - Dejvice
Tel. (+420) 224 325 181

Millème Boulangerie Pâtisserie Café

2009-10-04T02:25:00.002+02:00

"I went to a cafe that advertised breakfast anytime, so I ordered French toast during the Renaissance." Stephen Wright

When I first saw Millème, my reaction was "Qu'est-ce que c'est?"I didn't expect to see such a pretty place on this busy street. The eye-catching French café is close to the Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station, just across from The Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord. So you'll always know what time it is.

I went through the doors and saw that Millème was pretty on the inside, too. There was simple, colorful furniture, dark wood flooring, and plenty of light.The walls did look bare, though.

There was a beautiful spread of fruit and vegetables under a water mister.They make regular fruit or veggie smoothies for 80 CZK. The ones made with "exotic" fruit cost 120 CZK.

On my first visit, I got a bunch of stuff to take away. The first treat that caught my eye was the raspberry tart (95 CZK). This was rather exotic. The receipt called it a "Shogun."The berries sat on a green tea cream, held by a chocolate nut crust.

The glazed fruit was, fresh, tart, and sweet, and I really liked the cookie-like base. I was amazed how assertive the green tea flavor was. I appreciated how unusual it was. However, it might not appeal to everyone.

For a second sweet, I went for the straight-up chocolate tart (66 CZK).The rich, intense chocolate filled the same tasty crust as the raspberry version. But it was not quite as good as the chocolate tart at Millème's closest competition, Paul at Palác Flóra.

I also got a pain au chocolat (28 CZK). Very buttery and nice chocolate.I'd say this was as good or better than the one at Paul. However, that one was only 19 CZK. The ones at the pâtisserie, Café St. Tropez, can also be great. They use high-grade Valrhona chocolate, but I don't recall the price.

I went back another time and sat outside on a weekened morning to enjoy the last of the warm summer weather.For my breakfast, I ordered a ham and cheese omelet (75 CZK). It was mostly unremarkable.I liked that omelet was on the runny side. Neither the ham nor the cheese had too much flavor.Uncouth savage that I am, I asked if they had some ketchup. I wasn't surprised that this very French place only had mustard. It needed salt and pepper. It did look lonely on the plate, without any bread or other side items.

A French breakfast was also available (120 CZK). That comes with coffee, tea, or hot chocolate, orange juice, a croissant or pain au chocolat, half a baguette, butter, and jam.

There were also several types of quiche available (89 CZK). They also had salads: Caprese(129 CZK), Niçoise (159 CZK), grilled chicken (179 CZK) and goat cheese (189 CZK).

Simple sandwiches were available (69-99 CZK).

I was intrigued when I saw the menu mentioned fresh iced tea (39 CZK). It came in a frosted glass that formed some slush in the tea, but there were no actual ice cubes. There was tea foam at the top, something I'd never seen before.It was OK with some sugar, but I should have asked for a lemon slice. It wasn't bad, but given it's small size, I didn't think it was worth the money.

I sat and read a book for a while in the sun. Then, I decided that a dessert to go with my breakfast would not be inappropriate.

I ordered the Moelleux chocolat with vanilla ice cream (98 CZK). The warm, perfectly formed cake also came with a dish of chocolate sauce.The cake, with its liquid chocolate center was good, though not the best I've had. I didn't particularly like the vanilla ice cream, but the sauce helped.

The cake's shape was so perfect, the interior so consistent, I wondered if it was baked fresh on the premises. But given the beauty of some of their other offerings, I though it very possible it was.

To go with my cake, I got a decaf cafe latte (49 CZK).It was nice to look at, great foam, and tasted just fine, but the latte was only warm, not hot, on arrival. Perhaps the milk was not heated properly.

I'm glad to see the continuing renaissance of food and drink options in this part of Prague.

I'd like to try a few other things at Millème, but it is hard to imagine anything will outshine their cakes, pastries, and other desserts.

I do wish they'd expand their breakfast menu. My humble suggestion would be to offer that simple, lovely creation the French call pain perdu.

That's a breakfast I'd have anytime. But I'd still call it French toast.

Millème Boulangerie Pâtisserie Café
Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad 4
Prague 2 - Vinohrady
Tel. (+420) 223 002 274

I have to add something to this post. After I published it, V went to Millème and had a very bad service experience. The waiter got first her juice order and then her omelet order wrong, kept her waiting more than 20 minutes for it to be fixed, even though the cafe was empty, and was unapologetic and rude when she complained. I hope this is not an ongoing problem.

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge

2009-09-27T03:46:00.011+02:00

"The brightest sunshine of success is not without a cloud." Samuel Johnson

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge first floated onto my radar screen at the 2009 Prague Food Festival. The beef satay from their stand was a little dry, but I had a feeling they could do better on their home turf.

More recently, I checked out the internet menu of this relatively new cocktail spot on top of the cube-like Hilton Hotel, which is not to be confused with the Hilton Old Town.There were a lot of tempting items, and I thought the cocktail prices looked relatively reasonable for such an upscale place.

And I was curious. Despite many years in Prague, I'd never set foot in this Hilton, which boasts a top-end restaurant. Something about the location and the architecture put me off, even though it's pretty close to the Florenc metro station and bus stops.

The other night, I walked into the atrium and eventually found the special mirrored elevator up to the roof. I came out into a dark black marble hallway.When I turned the corner, there was a corridor that looked liked the entrance to CONTROL headquarters in "Get Smart." Lights around each section blinked on and off in succession, bidding you to follow.Just before entering the cocktail lounge, I passed one of the terraces.There was a somewhat distant view of Prague Castle, sitting above a much closer insurance company office building.I turned right past a well-dressed, well-muscled door man and walked into the purplish-hot pink seating area.I discovered they can alter the colors and the lights came down more later on. Techno-style music, which fit the decor, was played at an acceptable level. But it was not exactly my favorite style.

A bevy of attractive hostesses descended upon me as I sought out the optimal place to sit. I walked with them over into the second section of the lounge, but there were only four-seaters there.

So, I went back to where I started and sank down into a comfortable chair at a two-top. V was out of town -- I was going to have to manage solo once again. I was surrounded by, from what I could tell, were mostly hotel guests. There was a spread of age ranges. A fair number of Americans.

They started me off with some chips and nuts. They may not look like much, but these were some of the best cocktail snacks I've had.The chips, which were a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colors appeared homemade. The waitress told me they were all potato, but they all had different flavors, from slightly sweet to salty to spicy. There were also slightly sticky sweet and salty almonds.

For a start, I ordered one of Master Bartender Roman Uhlíř's "Signature Cocktails," called a Mystic (160 CZK). It was vodka, lime, homemade ginger syrup, and brown sugar.It was quite sweet, with a hint of lime-like bitterness. I was disappointed the ginger flavor was not more obvious. The Mystic wasn't bad, but I'd prefer the similar, but rum-based Jamaica Mule served at Bukowski's.

Even though I'd already eaten earlier in the evening, I felt it was my duty to eat again. I had to try that peppered beef satay (260 CZK). I was impressed by the very tender, top quality meat.It was exactly the kind of beef a place like Essensia at the Mandarin Oriental should be using, rather than the chew toy they served on our recent visit. Cloud 9's beef, with its soy marinade, was just a tad too salty.

On the side, there was a sesame oil mayo. I wish there was a better accompaniment. I could hardly taste any sesame, and mayo is far from my first choice of beef condiment. That part just didn't work for me.

Still, I was enjoying it and was down to my last couple of bites when the waitress came to take my finished drink away. Unfortunately, she spilled the crushed ice from the glass all over the table and some into my lap.She apologized and cleaned up quickly as I cleared the ice from my chair and checked that my mobile phone survived. I didn't realize until she was gone that she had whisked away my unfinished bites of beef.

I didn't feel like complaining and asking for a replacement or discount over so little, but I wasn't terribly happy about losing some food, either.

For my second drink, I ordered the New Classic Margarita (250 CZK). The drink was made with 100% agave tequila, Cointreau, fresh lime juice, and agave syrup.The price was eye-popping, but I hoped it would buy me something special.

Thankfully, it was excellent. It suited my taste, not too sweet, just the right sourness level from the lime, and it clearly packed a smooth punch. I was only slightly disappointed it came in a fairly small martini glass.

To go with this drink, I ordered the tuna tartare (290 CZK). It looked small in the picture on the website, but I thought it was a reasonably generous portion.The tuna was sandwiched between very light crackers. I could taste wasabi and ginger mixed in. Really good. It said it came with avocado, and there was a dab of green stuff on each cracker. But I wouldn't have known it was avocado unless someone told me.

The menu mentioned tomato, but I didn't see or taste any. Perhaps it blended in too well with the red tuna. The wasabi cream on the side was pleasantly sharp and a little sweet, but I used it sparingly. The batter-fried onion strings on the side weren't bad, but very messy and awkward to eat.

While not perfect as a whole, the tuna itself was so nice, I thought it worth the money.

For my final cocktail, I ordered something called an Elise (160 CZK). As if it wasn't embarrassing enough, I had to repeat the name three times before the waitress understood what I was asking for. I'm still asking myself why I ordered this strange concoction.It is made with gin, limoncello, peach liqueur, mango, grapefruit juice, and orgeat syrup.

My initial thought was this cocktail would be too frou-frou. Then, I thought I shouldn't be so closed-minded. Essentially, I only ordered it because I love limoncello.

It was cloyingly sweet, but with the bitterness of grapefruit. I picked up a hint of mango, but I really couldn't taste the limoncello at all. The orgeat is supposed to give it an almond flavor, but I didn't notice it, either.

This drink might work for someone else, but I really didn't like it.

I ordered one more round of food and had the bruschetta with port-marinated duck foie gras and fig marmalade (290 CZK).The marmalade was extremely sweet, but it balanced out on top of the buttery, smooth, creamy liver. The bread was good quality, but could have been toasted (or better toasted).

It was simple, but a satisfying dessert of sorts. I know foie gras, even from ducks, isn't that cheap. True, it was a rich few bites. But the plate looked pretty empty, and it felt unsubstantial for the money.

I had a fairly favorable opinion of the bar during the first visit, but things got a little more hazy after the second.

On that one, they still had the nice almonds, but the chips had changed. These were all the same -- almost black in color and appeared overcooked.They didn't taste burnt, but didn't have the most pleasant flavor, either.

I decided another "signature" cocktail was in order. I got the Black Pearl (165 CZK).It was made with premium Vodka, Chambord, Grand Marnier, cranberry and fresh lime juice. It had a great color, with great blackberries and raspberries as garnish, but that's the best I could say about it.

It was just too sweet. I could taste the cranberry and chambord very clearly. But I missed any sense of tart balance from the lime or orange flavor from the Grand Marnier.

The food menu tempted me once again. The teriyaki duck in rice paper rolls were delivered to my table (240 CZK). These cool, tightly-wrapped rolls, had the right look and some heft to them.There was a chili sambal on the side that was very spicy, peppery, and slightly too salty.

What I found inside was disappointing. It was all very fresh, but sadly bland. I could barely detect any teriyaki flavor. The duck was so flavorless, it could have been chicken.

There was some crunch from the greens inside. The texture was right, but not the taste. There was no basil or cilantro (coriander), as far I could tell, which would have seriously helped.

Then I got a mojito (160 CZK). I've had many great ones at a number of different bars around Prague. This was not one of them.It was too sweet, and there was still a lot of undissolved sugar at the bottom. It did have plenty of mint, which was good. But again, the sour notes were really lacking. Not enough lime.

Finally, I continued my quest for something sublime with lime. I got a Gimlet (140 CZK).This is one of my favorite cocktails, but it was not sublime. It was subprime. It was super-pucker sour, tasting like pure lime juice and gin.

A classic Gimlet is made with Rose's lime juice, which is sweet. There was nothing sweet about this drink. And to top it off, it was a very ungenerous pour. The small martini glass was more than half-empty.

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge is not the type of place I usually like to hang out. It was pretty stylish, but the clientele does give it something of a hotel feel, however upscale.

It did have a good view, comfortable chairs, some enjoyable dishes with not completely insane prices. That's relative, of course.

My total bill for the first visit came to 1410 CZK, not including tip. If V was with me, it probably would have been closer to 2500 CZK. The second trip cost me 705 CZK.

If you'd have asked me after my first visit, I'd probably recommend the bar for a date and a few little bites to eat. But after the second visit, my opinion changed.

There were just not enough shining moments and too many dark clouds raining on my cocktail parade.

Cloud 9 Sky Bar & Lounge
Prague Hilton Hotel
Pobřežní 1
Prague 8
Tel. (+420) 224 842 999

Brewsta's Burgers

2009-09-20T03:45:00.001+02:00

"I want to keep fighting because it is the only thing that keeps me out of the hamburger joints. If I don't fight, I'll eat this planet." George Foreman

More than a year ago, I did my own survey of Prague's hamburgers.

I certainly wasn't the first to do so. This particularly American food has been a very popular topic here, and my burger post received big hits.

As I noted then, The Prague Post used to do an annual article on Prague's best burgers.

And I saw that Laura Baranik of Prague Spoon fame just published a review of several burgers in Lidove noviny.

For the past several months, I'd been collecting fresh burger data for an update. So, I thought now would be a good time to put out my own list.

This post will not tell you what is the best hamburger in Prague. But it will tell you what I like the most. And the least.

My survey is far from comprehensive -- burgers are becoming increasingly ubiquitous in the Czech capital. But it is a much longer list than any other I've seen out there. And I've got pictures.

I always ordered a bacon cheeseburger, if possible, which usually came with fries. I ate some of these burgers quite a while ago -- the price listed usually reflects what I paid. If the burger has changed since my visit, let me know.

Anyway, let's begin with my least favorites and work our way up to my most loved. And it is love.

16. Jet Set City Center (180 CZK)The most unpleasant piece of meat I have encountered. It was well done, to the point of being dry and rubbery. I actually got tired chewing. I lost the will to finish it.

The bacon was, let's say, un-American -- very ham-like. Also, I'm not a big fan of the more ball-like patty style. They must have fried the hell out of it to cook that thick meat all the way through.

15. Red Hot & BluesI did not like this big, bad burger. The best thing I could say about it was that it was large.

The ground beef was rubbery, and the bacon was a disaster. The slices of pork were so overcooked, they had the consistency of a Visa card. And this was not a one-time mistake. Their bacon at breakfast was bad, too.

And to top it off, they put some cheap ketchup in my Heinz ketchup bottle. Either that or they mixed the real stuff with water. I'm sure I'm not the only one who can tell the difference. I don't recall what the price was -- I lost the receipt, and I don't think their website is up to date.

14. Cafe Imperial (235 CZK)They called it the "Double fist" Hamburger." It was quite wide. But the patty was also surprisingly thin. And even stranger, given the lack of depth, was that the one served to me was practically raw. I'd rate it higher if it was cooked properly.

But I was also put off when I found cucumbers on top. That's just wrong. My favorite thing about this one was the perfect grilled onions on top.

13. Mozaika (199 CZK)I do not give extra points for creativity. In fact, on my list, I take them away. Mozaika's burger was too clever by half.

The meat was too peppery. The grilled onions, combined with bacon, cheese, lettuce, and tomato did not combine well. It was chaos under the bun. The thing was certainly large, but felt like a rock in my stomach.

Overall, I like Mozaika, though it seemed to have lowered its standards on our last visit.

12. Ultramarin (220 CZK)This burger has gotten some positive press, but I didn't like it much. The menu said it was cooked on a "lava grill," but I could not taste it. The flavor was undistinguished. The beef was cooked well-done, and it was slightly rubbery.

It had onion jam on it, which was unconventional, a little too sweet, but not terrible. However, I was disappointed by the single mushroom cap on top. That didn't work. They should have cut up a few more and fried 'em.

The bacon was too hammy, which I don't like. There was no tomato on the side, just red peppers and cucumbers. On the plus side, it was huge. And it had a great bun.

11. Cafe Bar Wigwam (115 CZK)This is the burger I love to hate and hate to love. It's always a train wreck. Being a regular at the restaurant, I've probably had more of these than from any other place. And it seems like every week, it comes out differently.

But in general, the meat is almost always overcooked and too salty. The crumbly, low-quality bun is a repeat criminal offender. Construction is usually haphazard. The bacon is smoky, but rarely crispy. It's often drowning in mayo.

I wouldn't recommend this burger to anyone. It shouldn't rank this high. And yet... I have a place in my slowly clogging heart for this thing. Don't ask me why, it's not rational.

10.Burger King (109 CZK includes fries and Coke)That's right. I liked the Whopper more than all the burgers listed above. Harsh and somewhat twisted, I know. But that's how I feel.

9. Fraktal (170 CZK)They have a flame grill. I saw the burgers flaring up on it. But I could hardly taste it. Very disappointing.

The beef had a seasoning that I didn't mind so much. But the meat also had a slightly rubbery consistency. The melted cheese was excellent, and the bun was good and strong. If they hadn't murdered the bacon, I'd have rated it higher. And the fries weren't hot.

8. TGI Friday's (270 CZK)This burger's flame-broiled patty reminded me a lot of Burger King. The meat is thicker and juicier than a Whopper, but still thinner than many other burgers on the list. There was great American-style bacon. To me, it's a gourmet version of a Whopper. Except they put the toppings on the bottom. Not good for them.

I don't love the restaurant, but I liked this pricy burger. One important thing you should know: at the Anděl location, it was 40 CZK cheaper than at the Na Příkopě TGI Friday's. I did have a bad service experience at Anděl. But their great chocolate shake put me in a forgiving mood.

7. Jama (205 CZK)The menu offers a bacon burger (175 CZK) and a cheddar burger (175 CZK), but no combo. To achieve full bacon cheeseburger status, you have to order one of the above burgers, and then add extra cheddar (45 CZK) or extra bacon (45 CZK).

On the hefty burger I had, the bacon had the tell-tale signs of being deep fried rather than pan fried. Also, the onions were cut so thick, they wouldn't fit under the bun. The owner later wrote me and said those things would be fixed. But I returned and the onions were the same. I didn't recheck the bacon.

The meat was good quality and juicy, but pan-fried. Good toasted bun and plenty of cheese.

6. U Maleho Glena (155 CZK)This one was pretty good and hit a lot of the right classic notes. The meat was juicy and flavorful. But I believe it was pan-fried.

The bacon was plentiful and smoky, giving it almost a grilled taste, but it was soft and not really crispy. The tomatoes were sliced in annoying, awkward wedges. Red lettuce is not my favorite for burgers. The toasted, buttered bun was a real winner. It was among the sturdiest, holding everything together very well, and yet not too heavy.

I didn't subtract a point because the cook disappeared and didn't start cooking for 15 minutes after I ordered when I was super hungry.

5. Golf & Country Club Hodkovičky (235 CZK)Good burgers at a golf club? Even I was shocked. This burger probably would win the contest for best looks. Everything was well-balanced and proportioned.

I really loved the flavor of the ground beef. Just the right fat content. I didn't like the lettuce, tomato, and onion sitting under the meat. I'd downgrade them for only giving a tiny dish of ketchup and forcing me to ask for another one.

4. El Barrio de Ángel (159 CZK)Cooked on a flame grill, this ground beef came all the way from South America. The patty was well-seasoned, with a perfect amount of salt. The low fat content made it very dense and even a bit dry in the middle. Still, juices dripped on the plate -- the chef brushes the burger a lot on the grill.

It came with lettuce, tomato, onion, and mayo already on it. It was well-constructed. But I'm not a big fan of having mayo already on the burger, except at Burger King, where I have been conditioned to expect it.

3. Hard Rock Cafe (280 CZK)This one wins the prize for best flame-grill flavor. They put a char on that baby without ruining the meat inside.

The bacon was top quality stuff, but overcooked at the edges. For me, there was just a little too much melted cheddar cloaking the good quality meat. The bun was strong and nicely toasted, but a little large and out of proportion to the size of the patty.

The lettuce, tomato, and raw onion rings were good and correctly sized. I was happy to see some pickle slices. Despite my small criticisms here, this was a great burger, and I had a real hard time ranking the top three. I love them all.

2. Potrefena Husa on Vinohradska (248 CZK)I eat lots of these Husa burgers because I live nearby. They are truly great. They are cooked on flame, and you can always taste it.

The meat is high quality, but perhaps a little too lean, leading to some dryness if it is cooked too long. The patty was small for the bun, but still very filling. The bun is one of the weaker ones. The bacon isn't exactly American-style, but it is usually cooked more crispy than usual for English style.

The lettuce, tomato, and red onion are cut and sized just right, so it all fits together well. They give you different types of Heinz ketchup to go with it. I wish it wasn't so costly, but I should note that it used to be much more -- around 300 CZK. They dropped the price. Smart move. But still an expensive habit.

1. Bohemia Bagel in Holešovice (155 CZK) I wish I could get to this restaurant more often. Only because I love this burger. It strongly appeals to my fire-cooked bias.

The ground beef is lightly salty and juicy. The bacon occupies that place in the American-English divide, not as crispy as I'd like, but there's usually plenty of it. There's red onion, lettuce and tomato already on there. But I'd take a point off for them putting it under the patty, where the juices run into them. They should be on top.

Then, there is the great, toasted, buttered bun, which is like the one used at U Malého Glena (both started by Glenn Spicker). It's the perfect size and helps make this burger great. And I confess, the great price does help it taste a little better to me.

But like I said, the top three are almost interchangeable in my book -- all delicious.

I'll just add at the end that, putting aside individual components, I just ranked these hamburgers according to my level of eagerness to have another one. Maybe you have a different list. Or you don't like hamburgers at all.

That's fine. I don't want waste time fighting about it.

I still have a lot more hamburger eating to do.

Goran Bregović Plays in Prague

2009-09-19T00:32:00.003+02:00

Not my usual thing, but I saw Goran Bregović's free concert on Prague's Old Town Square with many thousands of others and really enjoyed it. So I thought I'd share.

I found a nice spot to watch the show -- here's bunch of different songs

Frank Bruni Spills the Beans

2009-09-17T10:34:00.010+02:00

"I love the beef blend and the flavor, but I was always bummed out by the ratio of beef-to-bun-to-condiments. But then I realized I was being the biggest bonehead in the world. Just get a double!" Frank Bruni

I was a fan of Frank Bruni's no-nonsense, witty restaurant reviews in The New York Times and was sorry to see him go.

But in the last month, I have greatly enjoyed his articles describing some of his secrets, favorites, and insights into the life of a critic.

I read with relish today this nice, long excerpt from his book that was republished in The Guardian. The book is called "Born Round: The Secret History of a Full-Time Eater."

It's full of juicy, behind-the-scenes details. I loved this bit about dining at the Penthouse (Magazine) Executive Club:

Foxy," I began, then stopped myself, wondering if I was being too familiar. "Are you and I on a first-name basis, or should I address you as Ms Foxy?"

"You can call me Dr Foxy," she said.

"Is that an MD or a PhD?"

"Yes," she answered, as if that settled it.

I send my thanks to Richard for pointing out this great article in his comment on a Cuketka.cz post. That post also just happens to mentions my latest post -- Brewsta's Burgers on Expats.cz.

The Club House in The Park

2009-09-07T01:23:00.040+02:00

I rose politely in the club
And said, 'I feel a little bored;
Will someone take me to a pub?'
G.K. Chesterton

If you work in The Park in Chodov, you're familiar with The Club House.It's a small, modern cafeteria-style restaurant in The Plaza in the middle of that modern, glass-clad office park.

But it's not just for desk drones, managers of middles, the IT crowd or masters the universe.

Take me, for example.

I don't work in The Park, but I've eaten there several times when visiting some of its many business establishments. There are plenty of reasons to be there besides work. The complex has a fitness center, a hair salon, the Canadian Medical Center, and it is walking distance to the massive Chodov mall.

Then, there's the pedigree: The Club House is run by Zátiší Catering, which is related to the Zátiší Group's gourmet restaurants.

Other points of interest: The Zátiší people do the food at a number of other venues like Žofín Garden on the river, and they are now running the cafeteria at the International School of Prague.

Seeing as how one of these Zátiší operations might soon be coming to a location near you, I thought it worth taking a closer look at what they do and how they do it.

In addition to the nice deck, fountains, and reflecting pool, the restaurant has an unusual landscaping addition: a putting green.You can rent a club and balls from the restaurant and work on your game. You can, but I wouldn't. It is hard for me to imagine standing up there perfecting putts in front of office workers during lunch.

The restaurant itself has a simple shoebox design with glass walls that fit in well with the rest of the office park.Lines form at peak times, but they move along quickly. The eatery is only open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on workdays.With summer rapidly slipping away, I'll start with the best offering there: Their outdoor grill.I've enjoyed their barbecue on many occasions.For around 130 CZK, you get meat, potatoes, and a salad, usually coleslaw.I really enjoyed the beef.But they also have had delicious pork and chicken.The meats always have great charred edges or grill marks and the smoky flavor I love so much.

I'm not a big fan of their coleslaw. I don't like how the mayo runs off into the meat and potatoes. And I don't like seeing it sit out in the sun for so long on a hot day.

The pizza looked like a popular choice. It was 34 CZK for a quarter of a small, thin-crusted pie.I didn't like it. The slices usually sat under a heat lamp and lost almost all crispness. They were too salty and not well-sauced. The cheese tasted too much like parmesan and not enough like mozzarella.

One time, I tried one of their hot lunch specials. This time, it was baked penne pasta with a cheese sauce, chicken, mushrooms, and peas (125 CZK).It was pretty disastrous. The cheese cooled quickly, and turned it into one giant blob with the penne.

On top of that, it was very bland. Luckily, there was a bottle of Tabasco sauce available. I used a lot.

There were very simple, boring-looking sandwiches that were pre-made in a display. They didn't look worth trying to me.

However, I did go to a Zátiší-catered event once at the Congress Center, and they had a much more interesting sandwich selection. I recall a Mexican-style sandwich with actual guacamole. Not fantastic, but better than what they offered at The Park.

The Club House also had pre-made Caesar and Caprese salads (49 CZK).

Another hot lunch special was meatballs with tomato cream sauce and macaroni.This was better than the chicken pasta, but not by much.

The meatballs were very dense and salty, but edible. The sauce, which had some cranberry on top, was understandably on the sweet side. The macaroni should have been salted, but was not overcooked.

For a drink, I usually had a half-liter bottle of Nestea (30 CZK).I'm a big dessert guy, so I tried their chocolate brownie.It was chocolaty enough, with a dusting of cocoa powder. But that powder also made it a mess to eat. And unfortunately, it was fairly dried out.

I also had their muffin with the chocolate center (24 CZK). This was moister, and I liked the fudgy middle.It was better than most muffins you'll find around town, but it still had something of a mass-produced style to it.

I'd say the Club House is a pretty average cafeteria in a pretty building in a pretty, manicured landscape. The food has a fancy look and presentation, but all too often, it's a bore.

The bottom line at this spot in Chodov is if you see the grill fired up outside, The Club House is the place to be.

If not, you might be better off rising politely and taking a friend to the pub for a liquid lunch.

The Club House
V Parku
Prague - Chodov
Office delivery: 604 966 965

Burger King at Florenc Bus Station

2009-09-02T17:10:00.005+02:00

"It's good to be the king." King Louis XVI (Mel Brooks)

I've been to one of Prague's newest Burger Kings -- the one at Florenc Bus Station.I'll keep this one short -- I already reviewed Prague's very first BK at the Metropole Zličín mall nine months back.

I can report that it is pretty much the same as most other Burger Kings.The first time, I was there, the line was long and slow. The second time, I walked right up and ordered. I had Whopper menu meal for 109 CZK.

I just thought I'd share how it looked. It was nice to see the modern facilities they've built to improve the station. It was a total dump before. It's not finished yet, but it's a good start.

I've also tied the Burger King at the main train station. It is certainly the best looking and largest outlet so far.

As a child, I loved McDonald's over BK, but now, I can't stand Mickey D's. It gives me a stomach ache. As far as fast food goes, the flame-grilled burgers at Burger King are among my favorites.

Perhaps the novelty will wear off, but for now, I still say it is good to be at Burger King.

Ha Noi

2009-08-31T03:47:00.005+02:00

"If you want to gather a lot of knowledge, act as if you are ignorant." Vietnamese proverb

For such a small and unassuming spot, there's been a big buzz around the relatively new Vietnamese restaurant, Ha Noi.The Vinohrady establishment got some positive mentions by long-time Prague restaurant critic Evan Rail on the pages of The New York Times and Lidové noviny. He mentions the surprising lack of Vietnamese restaurants in Prague, given the large Vietnamese population in the city.

It's also noted that on Expats.cz, a discussion of the restaurant's pho, or noodle soup, is filled with comments like "pretty good - not quite Vietnamese standard" and "best I've had in Prague" and "bargain for that quality."

However, Ha Noi was essentially panned by Pan Cuketka, the popular food blogger and reviewer at Týden magazine (Czech only). He basically said Prague is still waiting for a good and authentic Vietnamese restaurant.

I enjoy a variety of Asian cuisines, but like many out there, I'm not an expert on Vietnamese food. I'm just a guy who eats out a lot and loves trying new things. And after three visits, I've got my own opinions.

Despite being in a cellar space, the room is bright and cheerful enough, with brick accents, orange walls, blond wood floors, and yellow table cloths.On my first visit with V, I went straight for the pho bo or beef noodle soup (79 CZK).It was stocked with paper-thin slices of meat that were surprisingly tender. Noodles floated underneath.

On the side were a lime slice, cilantro, and bean sprouts.There was also a potion of vinegar, garlic slices, and red, hot chili peppers.There were so many of my favorite flavors here. However, I felt that they were not assertive enough.

Perhaps an authentic version has a slight blandness to it. But for my tastes, it didn't cause much excitement.

I wished there was more lime, and I added a lot of the garlic potion to give it more of a punch.

Don't get me wrong. It wasn't bad. I just didn't find it particularly special.

This first meal was a few months ago, and it was before Ha Noi came out with its one-page Vietnamese menu.

So V ordered something from the regular Chinese menu -- sweet and sour chicken on an iron skillet.This was pretty dismal. For some reason, she thought that since it was served on hot iron, it wouldn't be fried in batter. A simple misunderstanding.

However, the crust was really unfortunate. It had an odd and unpleasant consistency, somewhere closer to chewy than crunchy.

The chicken slices rested on vegetables and there was a standard sweet and sour sauce on the side.

I was drinking Pilsner Urquell. The great news here was a half-liter was only 26 CZK.

It tasted good, though I do like it a little colder.

On my second, more recent visit, I started off with two kinds of spring rolls.They have the classic fried roll, like the one on the right, filled with pork, shredded cabbage, and carrot (49 CZK for three). They also offered one free when ordering a main course.

But the rolls listed on the menu as "nem ga" said in Czech they were made with chicken.There were also fried rolls made with just rice noodles called "bun nem." There were no fried rolls listed with pork.

At the bottom of the Vietnamese menu, they listed non-fried spring rolls (29 CZK each).Inside, there were shrimp, rice noodles, Thai basil, red pepper, cucumber, and what I believed was chicken. But the menu said it was pork. The dipping sauce was sweet, but also quite spicy.

Then, I went for a dish that a few people recommended, the bun cha (79 CZK).This was roasted pork with torn Thai-style basil leaves over plain rice noodles. There was a sweet and sour sauce on the side.

The New York Times piece mentioned that it came with bird chilies and peanuts but I didn't see those.

The pork itself was slightly overcooked and tough. Pan Cuketka called the meat "intolerably salty." I wouldn't go that far, but it was definitely on the wrong side of the salinity scale.

Like him, I also thought I tasted soy sauce, which is not part of the classic bun cha recipe. Most recipes also call for a decent amount of sugar, which I had a hard time detecting.

I poured all of the sweet sauce over the top to cut the salinity and give the noodles some flavor. It helped, but not enough. Still, I felt that with better attention to detail in the cooking and flavor, the dish had potential.

I felt I didn't have the full measure of the Vietnamese menu, so I went back one more time. I ordered a bottle of water and was disappointed to see they have those .2 liter bottles of Bonaqua (20 CZK).I much prefer Mattoni. Those tiny Bonaqua bottles don't quench my thirst.

For my meal, I had the mixed rice and glass noodles with beef (89 CZK). There was crushed peanut, cucumber, and basil on top.Under the noodles, there was a sweet sauce that turned into a nice broth. The waiter encouraged me to mix it up well.The meat was tender and had the best balance, not over salted. I wished there was more of it. I thought I'd even ask for a double order of meat over a single order of noodles. I'd pay 178 CZK for that.

I did add some Chin-su hot sauce to perk it up. But even without that, I liked this the best of all the dishes I tried. Warning -- that red chili sauce is hot stuff.

The service was always good -- polite, friendly, and efficient.The food always came fast. Maybe too fast. I was concerned too much was pre-prepared and reheated.

I definitely wouldn't say someone should go too far out of their way to try Ha Noi. But I did like a couple of things -- the spring rolls and the mixed noodles.

And I absolutely loved the prices. It's a decent, non-standard addition to the neighborhood. I'll be back from time to time.

Some might say I know too little about Vietnamese cuisine to fully appreciate Ha Noi.

I can only say that in my ignorance, I've learned quite a lot.

Ha Noi
Slezská 57
Praha 2 - Vinohrady
Tel. (+420) 728 774 637

Czech Golf Course Food

2009-08-24T03:41:00.043+02:00

"Golf is a game whose aim is to hit a very small ball into an even smaller hole, with weapons singularly ill-designed for the purpose." Winston Churchill

I hate golf.

In fact, few have done more than me to tear the golf courses of this country into little pieces.

Yes, I play poorly. But I try.

If you are not a golfer, forgive me this indulgence. I report every week about what I've been eating, and I always like to do something a little unusual.

So, here we are.

First, here's a look at my favorite 9-hole course, Golf Hostivař.I think it is the best-kept of the ones I usually play. It was 800 CZK to tee off on a weekend.

There is a modern club house building.And in the back is a restaurant with a pleasant outdoor patio. There are sheep grazing nearby.

For the human grazers, the menu was relatively ambitious and on the upscale side.I was happy to see they had a lava grill outside.

I decided to splurge and ordered the rib eye steak (350 CZK). It came with grilled vegetables marinated in balsamic vinegar and olive oil.It looked pretty, but this was a pretty big disappointment.

A rib eye should be the tenderest of cuts. But this one was very tough and overcooked. There was a good smoky flavor from the grill, but it was tiresome to eat it. The veggies were well prepared, still with some crunch.

On a later visit, I went for the Thai chicken breast burger (195 CZK). There was wasabi mayo, lettuce, tomato, red onion, and fries on the side. A quality bun.This was much better, among the best chicken sandwiches I've had in Prague.

It was not whole breast, but a re-formed patty. Still, it held together well, had a great char from the grill, and was well-seasoned. I could taste the wasabi in the mayo. Fries were fine -- thick and fried crispy.

Michigan Man had a grilled chicken thigh with American potatoes and a small salad.He said it was very good, but I didn't taste it myself.

They serve Pilsner Urquell on draft (40 CZK/Half-Liter).It did taste mighty fine after a game. They don't offer Gambrinus, but do have non-alcoholic beer.

Another course I've played on a number of times is at Golf & Country Club Hodkovičky.It's down along the Vltava River, south of the city center. This 9-holer is not as well kept and is also 800 CZK on a weekend.

One problem for me: there is always a concern about killing a roller blader or cyclist on the popular paved paths that run along the fairways.

I've only had one thing from the restaurant, but it is something I can recommend.They do a fine bacon cheeseburger (235 CZK). It's not flame-grilled as far as I can tell, but the large patty was made with top-quality beef.There was a big, strong bun. It had all the fixin's -- lettuce, tomato, red onion, smoky bacon, cheddar cheese. It all fit together.

Not cheap, but neither is golf.In this context, it was worth it. I'd get it again.

The fries were excellent. I'd just criticize them for being stingy with the little dish of ketchup. I had to ask for extra to put on both my burger and fries.

And I was not happy with the tiny .2 liter baby bottle of Nestea that they served (39 CZK).It hardly quenched my thirst, and the price was crazy. I ended up going over to a nearby vending machine, buying a half-liter ice tea bottle for cheaper and refilling my glass with it.

They also offer a half-liter of Pilsner Urquell for 45 CZK.Unfortunately, I could not partake in that more economical and satisfying beverage since I was driving.

Golf Resort Beřovice is the furthest from the center of Prague, about an hour drive. And it is also the most hilly. The weather was mixed, but we did get a nice rainbow show.

We played 18 holes (1400 CZK on a weekend), and we were pretty exhausted by the time we hit the Birdie Restaurant.

I was too tired and forgot to take a picture of the dining area or the food before we started eating. We sat outside, but you can see how the inside looks on their website.

I had steak tartare.They allow you to season it yourself if you want, but I let them do it. And they did a good job. The beef was top-notch, very garlicky, with the right amount of onions, salt, and the rest.

I rubbed young, fresh garlic on the topinky, the oil-fried Czech bread, and it was extremely sharp. I passed some around and my friends enjoyed it.

Michigan Man had the pork schnitzel with mashed potatoes.I had a bite, and it was pretty greasy. But they used good pork, and it looked quite filling.

J had steak in a pepper cream sauce with American potatoes.The beef looked overcooked to me, but he said he enjoyed it and was glad he ordered it.

All in all, the food to be found on the Czech golf courses I've played was better than I expected.

And thinking about their food helped me take my mind off my game, which is singularly ill-designed for getting that damn little ball in the hole.

Essensia at the Mandarin Oriental

2009-08-17T03:04:00.046+02:00

“Disappointment is the nurse of wisdom.” Sir Bayle Roche

Why did I want to eat at Essensia?

Well, it was a beautiful evening, and I wanted to sit outside. I was in the mood for something special and ready to loosen the purse strings. And I needed something new.

I'd read chef Jiří Štift recently started cooking at the Mandarin Oriental and had introduced a new menu. He used to cook at Alcron in the Radisson SAS. We ate there years ago when he ran the kitchen and greatly enjoyed it.

So we got to the hotel in Malá Strana as the sun was setting and sat out on the wooden deck.The tables looked inviting, with flowers and plants around them. It was only mildly disturbing that cars and taxis regularly drove past. The deck is in the hotel driveway.

Things started off well, service-wise. Our super polite, somewhat overly attentive waiter brought us refreshing, cool towels.There was a real, little orchid on the side.

We ordered a .75 liter bottle of Mattoni (190 CZK). The waiter brought a separate glass of ice and slices of lemon with fancy toothpicks, a nice touch.I expected five-star hotel prices, but I was still surprised how much they jack up the cost of drinks.

We were waiting for Jersey Girl, our faithful foodie friend, to join us, so I ordered a gin and tonic. V had a Campari and orange juice.I got a separate little bottle of tonic, which cost 110 CZK. The shot of Gordon's gin was 160 CZK. I didn't know the prices until the end, but I was pretty stunned when I found out it was 270 CZK for a basic long drink.

V's Campari, by itself, was 150 CZK. The juice was fresh-squeezed and cost another 120 CZK. That's 270 CZK altogether. She thought they used too much Campari, making it too bitter for her taste.

I don't know about everybody else, but the practice of charging separately for alcohol and mixers puts me off. And compared to the Mandarin Oriental, the Buddha-Bar's gimlet seemed a relative bargain at 190 CZK.

We were hungry and had to ask for bread. It took a long time for it to arrive. The waiter apologized profusely that the bread he had sent to us had been given to another table by mistake.There was some OK stuff with walnut mixed in, but the poppy seed rolls were on the stale side. The other slices were unremarkable. There was whipped garlic butter and regular butter on the side.

The waiter disappeared for quite a while and when he came back, we had trouble getting his attention.

Finally, we did. But we didn't consider the newly unveiled gourmet Czech section of the menu. If you are interested, it's not on the internet. Except for here if you can read it.We were all in the mood for their Asian offerings.

I was the only one who ordered a starter. I got the soft-shell crab in wasabi tempura (480 CZK).It was a large portion of crab, easily double the size of the cheaper version I had at SaSaZu. The delicate meat was fresh and delicious. The tempura shell was perfectly crunchy, but I was disappointed I couldn't detect the wasabi.

On the side was the basic Thai chili sauce you can find in any supermarket. I expected something a little more creative from a big name chef at a fancy hotel charging top-end prices.

Under the crab was what was described as "soy bean and shiitake mushroom salsa." I'm not sure what made it a "salsa," but I found it very dull and uninspired. It was overwhelmed by the earthy flavor of the bean sprouts.

I'm really not a fan of sprouts, so I asked Jersey Girl for her take. She's generally a vegetarian who eats fish sometimes. Her opinion: "Nothing special."

We wanted a chilled bottle of rose wine with our summer meal, and I was disappointed that there were no French options in that category, only Czech. I ordered the Svatovavřinecké Claret (820 CZK).I was unimpressed. I found it far too sweet and not so refreshing.

At this point, between the starters and the main courses, our waiter disappeared again. In fact, the whole outside staff went AWOL. I'd guess it was for close to 15 minutes. We wanted another bottle of water.When he came back I got his attention.

"Hey, where you been?!?"

"I'm so sorry. A number of tables were seated inside, and we have to take care of them as well."

We ate inside a few years ago, right after the hotel opened. We thought the food was pretty good then, if overpriced, and that the white-washed walls and stone floors gave the dining room a cold and uninviting atmosphere.

Anyway, on to the main courses. At the beginning of the evening, V saw a gentleman outside eating lobster, but didn't see it on the menu. She asked and was told it was a special, unlisted dish. The waiter checked for her and said there was one portion left. Nice.

So she had the grilled lobster (950 CZK). This was a dish that was worth the price.It was split and fried in a healthy amount of butter, with just the right level of salt and other spice. The meat was fresh and tender.

She enjoyed it greatly, and the few bites I got were delicious. There was a small amount of grilled vegetables on the side, which she said were not too remarkable.

I ordered the pepper-glazed beef entrecôte (590 CZK). The meat, cooked medium-rare, came with stir-fried vegetables and jasmine rice.There was a slightly sweet but thin teriyaki-style sauce over the meat, which pooled under the vegetables. I wasn't sure how to cut it without mashing the steak down on the veggies -- there was no separate plate.

When I began cutting, the beef seemed a little tough. When I began chewing, it tasted well-seasoned and grilled. But it was also very tough. And gristled.

My jaw began getting tired. And I started to get annoyed. This was not good quality, well-sourced beef. This was not worth almost 600 Czech crowns. I could get a far better steak down the road at El Barrio de Ángel for half the price.

There was a nice mix of vegetables underneath -- cherry tomatoes, baby corn, peppers, zucchini, and such. But sitting in the uninspired sauce, they didn't bring me much joy.

Jersey Girl had the Phad Thai with shrimp (490 CZK). It has to be one of the most expensive versions in the city. And it was perhaps the worst iteration I have tried."It's really sour," Jersey Girl told me. I took a bite.

"Oh yeah. Intense. But it also reeks of fish sauce. Really skunky."

I love a few dashes of fish sauce in Asian cuisine. We use it quite often at home. But this tasted like they dumped a whole bottle in the mix, along with a crate of limes.

To make matters worse, there were only four medium-size, over-cooked, dried-out shrimp, along with some microscopic ones. The noodles were dry and clumpy, too. The table next to us was talking and considering ordering the phad thai. JG said with a stage whisper, "Don't do it!"

Down the street at Noi, you can get a far-superior phad thai with six properly cooked shrimp for just 240 CZK.

We weren't happy, and we wanted out. But our waiter had disappeared again. The sun had gone down, there was little lighting on the deck, and we were sitting in the dark. Fuming.

"I'm so sorry," he apologized when he finally turned up again. "It was very busy inside. Can I offer you some free coffee or would you like dessert?"

"No, just the check. Time to go," I said. We had no desire to stay a minute longer than we had to. The finally bill was 4250 CZK. Jersey Girl kicked in 1000 CZK, and I picked up the rest. Serious money.

Contrary to the misapprehensions of some out there, I don't get free food. When I eat at an expensive restaurant, I pay for the meal out of my own pocket. I can afford a pricey meal, but I do maintain the expectation I will get value for my money and good service.

After this dinner, I was angry. The lobster and part of the crab dish were enjoyable. But that's not good enough. The steak and the phad thai were failures. I did not like the wine. The mixed drink prices were outrageous. The service was just plain "sorry."

I was embarrassed I had invited a friend to share in this learning experience. You'd think a place called Mandarin Oriental would take their Asian cuisine more seriously.

But after dining at Essensia, I was nursing the feeling that I'd been bilked out a fair amount of cash.

If you are looking for a fine Asian meal on the town in Prague, there are plenty of far wiser choices you can make.

Essensia
Mandarin Oriental Hotel
Nebovidská 1
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 233 088 888

Las Adelitas Delivery Service

2009-08-10T02:27:00.028+02:00

"It is delivery that makes the orators success." Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe

In the last year or so, I've noticed a few comments recommending a Mexican food delivery service called Las Adelitas.

I do love Mexican food, so I was very curious. My demand for authentic south of the border cuisine (I'm not talking Austria) has not been met by supply in Prague.

I stand by Fosil as my favorite and perhaps the only option for something close to the real deal. Even if the service is always discombobulated.

Anyway, back to Las Adelitas. One must understand that they don't have a restaurant you can actually sit down and eat in. Yet.

In order to try their food, I had to place an order. I organized a group of colleagues, and we arranged a delivery.

It is important to note that they have free delivery to Prague 1, 2, 3, and 5. I work elsewhere, so they told me there'd be a 150 CZK delivery charge. No problemo.

But even without any previous experience, I had a feeling we'd have a long wait. We tried to get the order in by noon, but still, it took around 90 minutes for delivery. Cooking time and traffic must be accounted for.

The delivery guy showed up with a big thermal box in a regular taxi. The fare for the return trip would be more than 150 CZK, but he said they share the cost for the delivery to keep it reasonable.

I dashed back into the office and opened the foam clam shell to behold my Burrito Mixto (138 CZK).I tried everyone else's orders, and I'll tell you at the top, this was my favorite.

Next to a rolled flour tortilla were neatly bagged side items: lettuce, sour cream, sour red onion, and a salsa that seemed like watery tomato puree with a good dose of chili. The bags didn't leak!

Inside, the burrito had refried beans, cheese, onion, lettuce, pork and chicken.The marinated pork was the best part, really flavorful. The chicken in there was less impressive and on the bland side. Still, it was a solid little lunch

PB ordered Quesadillas de Pollo (164 CZK). There are three to an order.They were not quesadillas like any I'd had before. These were made with corn tortilla, but thicker. They were something like a turnover or meat pie.

PB was not enamored. He thought the tortillas were on the greasy side. The menu said they were filled with a stewed chicken made with a special recipe, but he thought it needed seasoning. It had the same bagged fixin's on the side.

GP got the Flautas de Pollo (169 CZK). There were three crispy, rolled corn tortillas.They were filled with what the menu said was a mix of chicken, tomato, onion, and spices. But again, we thought the chicken inside was boring and needed a boost.

Not sure if it is proper procedure, but he mixed up the lettuce, sour cream, and salsa and made his own little side salad.PB got the Taquitos Dorados (95 CZK). As the menu stated, this was essentially the same as the Flautas de Pollo, just a smaller portion.Last but not least, MB got the Tostadas de Conchita Pibil (105 CZK).There were two crispy corn tortillas with separate containers for the marinated pork and red onions.

It was not a big portion but she was quite happy with it. She said the pork was really delicious. Good food, good price.

So there you have it. My advice is order anything with the pork in it. Good stuff. And order as close to 11 a.m. as you can on a weekday.

I wanted a little more information, so I got in touch by email with Patrico, one of the two young Mexicans behind the Las Adelitas. I asked him the first and foremost question on my mind: What made the pork so good?

"Love," he wrote. Fair enough. He didn't want to give away any trade secrets. But he did add that the slow-roasting recipe from Yucatan is also known as Conchinita Pibil. Hence the name of the offering that MB liked so much.

Patrico also gave me a little background. He said that Las Adelitas started more than a year ago. He and his friend, Rodrigo, a chef who went to culinary school in Mexico, put on a cooking exhibition during a football tournament at Strahov. It was so popular, they decided to start their business.

Patricio said they do sometimes get complaints about slow delivery because they don't always have enough people to transport the food.

He added they also do catering, especially for a certain embassy that appreciates real Mexican cooking. However, the most interesting news of all is that they plan to open an actual restaurant.

When and where that is, we'll have to wait and see. I'd certainly give them a try. I'll be curious to see if there is success beyond delivery.

Las Adelitas
Tel. or SMS: (+420) 776 805 317
Email: lasadelitasdelivery (at) hotmail.com

Delivery Hours:
Mon-Fri 11a-5p
Sat 1p-5p

Ambiente Ristorante Pizza Nuova

2009-08-03T03:31:00.046+02:00

"'Tis no man. 'Tis a remorseless eatin' machine!" Captain McAllister, owner of The Frying Dutchman (The Simpsons)

All you can eat pizza and pasta? Sounded like a fool's game to me.

That's what they offer at Ambiente Pizza Nuova near Náměstí Republiky.I'd been to the spacious, cafeteria-like restaurant a number of times.But each time, I avoided the pizza and pasta.

Instead, I got the "try as much as you can" antipasti buffet (285 CZK).It was not a typical salad bar, with lots of quality stuff.

They had a variety of salads like Caprese.But there was also grilled and non-grilled vegetables, marinated fish, beef carpaccio, and several cheeses, including a giant block of Parmigiano-Reggiano that you can chip away yourself. And bread, too.

I always thought this was a great deal and one of the healthier options in the area. Right next to the salad bar, fresh fish on ice is out for inspection.But for some reason, the thought of stuffing myself to the gills with pizza and pasta didn't appeal to me. I wasn't planning on running any marathons, and felt no need to explore my carbo-loading limits.

The full title of this Ambiente restaurant is "La Verace Pizza Napoletana," and I wanted to test the claim on their oven that it's the real thing.I went with G-Man and a couple of other people. He got the Pizza Diavola (185 CZK).The menu says it comes with spicy Ventricina salami, fresh cow milk mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil, Grana Padano cheese, olive and sunflower oils.

It was one of the best European-style pizzas I've had in Prague. Very close in quality to the one we had at Naples' Da Michele. There was a nice char on the crust from the hot oven. If there was one big fault, it was that the oil caused the crust to go soggy rather quickly.

I then tried the Pizza Marinara (155 CZK). This was THE best pizza I've had in Prague.I know this is a classic style in Italy, but I'd never tried one before. Until this experience, I had held a irrational and preconceived notion that it couldn't be a pizza without cheese.

How wrong I was. This pizza was just amazing, my hands down favorite. The imported tomatoes, along with the basil, were very good on the Diavola, but they were muted and overshadowed by the cheese and pepperoni.

On the Marinara, these flavors were up and singing. When combined with the slightly blackened, fully crisp crust, I could not get enough of this one.

With my low expectations effectively raised, I decided to return another day for the unlimited pizza and pasta option (295 CZK before 6pm - 328 CZK after 6pm).This time, G-Man got the Pizza Margherita Classica (188 CZK).You can also get it with bufala mozzarella (245 CZK).

The Classica still had a slight soggy crust issue in the middle, but flavor-wise, it was top notch. I'd even recommend this simpler pizza over the Diavola. But the Marinara remains my favorite.

Once I set the all-you-can-eat machine in motion, the food came fast and furious. Almost too fast.You can always turn down something on offer, but when I came in, hungry and curious, I took on everything.

The servers carry small pans with freshly cooked pasta. I imagined it would be bad, but it really was well executed.

The gnocchi with porcini and cream had really distilled the lovely taste of the mushrooms.I much appreciated the Penne Alla Checca.The flavor of the tomatoes and basil had the similar enticing intensity found on the Pizza Marinara. There was also mozzarella and extra virgin olive oil in the mix.

I had Penne All´Amatriciana. The tomato flavor stood above the barely noticeable pancetta. But there was a respectable sharpness from the chili peppers.

I really enjoyed the Ragu Napoletana fusillata. Veal and pork were slow-cooked with red wine, basil and Grana Padano cheese into a fork-tender mound. It was a little salty, but oh so rich in flavor.

The seafood pasta was fresh and delicious.It had a coating of olive oil and, interestingly, what I thought might be a hint of orange, but could not be sure. It was superior to most of the bland versions I've had elsewhere.

There was a Penne Alla Tagliata. It was simple but delicious with good quality beef, rucola, tomato, garlic, Parmesan, and rosemary. With every dish I tried, the pasta came out al dente, never overcooked.

Things went less well on the pizza side. I took on the Capricciosa.The slice had a small amount of mushrooms, ham, and artichokes. But as I indicated before, with these pizzas, less is more.

Again, it got limp pretty fast, and it is a shame to cover up the quality that lies underneath.

I had a white pizza with cheese, with only chopped fresh tomato and basil.This was much better. The flavors were more clear, the crust more crisp.

While getting all the pizza and pasta I wanted was no problem, getting drinks was another matter altogether.

We were drinking beer. They have Staropramen. I was drinking Granat. They also serve Stella Artois.

It appeared that different waiters were responsible for drinks. On both visits, it was hard enough to get the first round delivered. The second round proved near impossible.

In fact, on our second trip, I had to chase down the manager to order a beer. And it still never arrived.

As we asked for the check, I told him to cancel it. He realized his lapse and apologized profusely as we left.Yes, I started with low expectations and was very pleasantly surprised at the great quality that came along with the great quantity of food.

They really do pack a lot of great flavors into almost every dish. That can't be easy when there are so many different variations going to so many customers, one pan at a time.

I'd love to go back for the Pizza Marinara. And almost any of the pastas, but perhaps the Ragu Napoletana.

It was great to be able to sample such a wide range of dishes for such a good price. But I wouldn't do it again. I felt less than well when I was done.

Rumors to the contrary, I’m no eating machine. And in the all-you-can-eat game, it’s hard to beat the house, however good the cooking.

I always end up eating too much and leaving full of both food and, yes, a little remorse.

Ambiente Pizza Nuova
La Verace Pizza Napoletana
Revoluční 1
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 221 803 308

SaSaZu

2009-07-27T01:46:00.001+02:00

"Sometimes I'm so sweet even I can't stand it." Julie Andrews

A few months ago, I heard about SaSaZu, a fancy, Asian-inspired restaurant in Holešovická tržnice.I didn't feel the urge to rush over.

Why?

The offerings on the online menu looked tasty, but I figured the omission of prices meant they would be similar to those at Buddha-Bar. Meaning very high.

But a couple of friends, Dan The Man and Miss Montana, went there for dinner one night and called me to report that the prices were much lower than they expected.

That's all I needed to know. I hopped in a taxi with G-Man, and we joined them after their first round of dishes.

The interior certainly has some similarities to Buddha-Bar. What SaSaZu's terracotta statues lack in size, they make up for in quantity.The restaurant also had the dim lighting and artsy fixtures in its cavernous, warehouse-like space.Next to the restaurant, in a separate space, is one of Prague's biggest dance clubs, also called SaSaZu.I've seen posters advertising big name DJ's as well as concerts by the likes of Macy Gray.

My picture didn't come out so well, but you can get a better idea of how it looks on YouTube.

Dishes ordered by Dan and his Miss arrived shortly after we did. After we were handed hot towels for washing up, she received her "Red Curry Beef and Shrimps" (255 CZK).It had a coconut milk base and reminded me of a massaman curry I had recently in the USA. There were also snow peas, Thai eggplant, and basil.

It was quite sweet, but regular readers will know that I tend to like sweet dishes if they are not too over the top, especially Thai. I didn't get a taste of the beef or shrimp in the bowl, but the menu said the meat was cooked over an open fire.

Dan The Man had the Vietnamese Ga Curry (145 CZK). We all thought, of the two dishes, this was even better.It had the clear flavor of tamarind and there was also turmeric. There was chicken under that sweet sauce.

On the side were white noodles and cleanly cut pieces of lettuce with cilantro. The waiter explained that they were for dipping in the sauce, not necessarily for making rolls with the chicken.

G-Man got the Coconut Corn Soup (90 CZK). There was a small cup, filled with yakitori chicken, basil, and shiitake mushroom.It was very corny and very sweet. Almost dessert-like. It was certainly not for someone looking for something savory.

He also had the "Hanoi Shrimps" (140 CZK). This came with a generous portion of large, perfectly prepared tempura-fried shrimp. Crispy on the outside, delicate and tender on the inside.The dashi-cream sauce with green onion and sweet potato was not as sweet as some of the others. It didn't make a strong impression on the shrimp. But it had an enjoyable, subtle flavor on its own.

G-Man ordered the SaSa Crispy Roll (220 CZK). It was a tuna and salmon roll which was steamed and then fried.It was crispy on the outside with quality fish on the inside. There was a little seaweed salad on the side.

I started out ordering what was called the "7+5 Asian Spice" (240 CZK).On top was the five-spice beef. I can't name the five, but I can tell you the thinly sliced meat was indeed spicy and also well-seasoned. There was also the strong presence of sesame oil, some thought a little too much.

Underneath, there were red onions, mint, bean sprouts, rucola, and daikon. The seven spices, also known as shichimi tōgarashi, are mostly made up of ground red chili pepper.

I loved the creamy mustard sauce on the side. It was quite mild, but had a tangy taste I couldn't get enough of.

All the dishes at SaSaZu are on the small side, but I thought this one, in particular, though I liked it, was too small for the price in my book.

I drank a Pilsner Urquell. I wasn't happy that they only serve it in .3 liter glass, and it costs 55 CZK. Just out of curiosity, I did the math, and it would be 92 CZK for a half-liter.

I had the Stone Oven Crispy Duck (140 CZK). This was my least favorite dish of the night.It was a version of Peking duck. The duck itself was pretty good, very tender.

It came with a sweet sauce, Chinese pancakes, scallions, and cucumber with the untraditional addition of foie gras. However, the pancakes had a very strong flour-like flavor that overwhelmed the ingredients inside.

I was on a mission to try lots of stuff, and they suggest you try something from the five sections of the menu.

So I ordered the Tai Tai Truffle Entrecote (295 CZK). The small piece of beef was very thinly sliced. It had a lovely smoky taste from the grill.The ends were cooked medium rare, but a few slices in the middle were almost raw. I didn't mind so much, but it could have been better.

The sweet sauce tasted of ginger and truffle. I found the combination somewhat odd, though not necessarily bad. I didn't love it, but the others at the table all raved about it.

On the side was a coconut rice cake that the waiter told me had mung bean in the center. I liked it, but it was like a rice pudding dessert.

I got the Pepper Calamari, which was akin to a small salad (120 CZK). It had some my favorite flavors, kaffir lime leaf, cilantro, and basil.The fried squid were delicious, but too small and too few. And there was far too much red onion. That overshadowed the good parts.

My favorite dish, overall, on this visit was the "Singapore Crab Chilli" (170 CZK). On the plate was a small, lightly fried soft-shell crab.On the side was a delicious, sweet and spicy dipping sauce with a strong flavor of peanut.

Soft-shell crab is not something I've personally seen in Prague before. V said she had it once at Kampa Park.

This one was just perfect -- fresh white meat inside with the unique flavor of the crispy shell on the outside.

It also came with a small dish of very salty broth on the side. In it was what appeared to be a gelatinous ball of soaked rice paper. It was... interesting.

I liked the crab so much, I took V for another visit.

Immediately after sitting down, the waiter walked up with a bottle of Panna still water and, without asking, poured us two glasses and set the bottle down.

They charge 100 CZK for this bottle, and the presumptuousness really annoyed us.

"I think we should tell the guy to take it away," I said.

"I know, but I do want water," V answered, but she added. "That's not very nice."

"Next time, we make him change it for water with gas," I said.

V ordered a Campari (115 CZK) with orange juice (50 CZK). Be aware that they charge separately for each, so the mixed drink cost 165 CZK. Her later glass of Czech Sauvignon Blanc cost 125 CZK.

V had the Singapore Crab Chili and loved it. She also liked the Ga Curry.

Then, she ordered the Papasan Scallops (180 CZK). There were three thin slices of scallop buried under a mild, not-too-sweet laksa sauce.That sauce was nice, tasting of galangal, lime leaf, and coconut milk. There was also a tiny seaweed salad on the side.

On this trip, I tried the Empire Saigon Roll (90 CZK). It was small but had a good combination of flavors, with one big shrimp through the middle.Inside, there was mint, basil, and peanut. The dish had a terrific coconut mint sauce on the side. But the whole thing was gone in four small bites.

I got the chicken dim sum (120 CZK). I ate one of the dumplings alone and tasted a bit of chicken and cilantro, but more of the dough.The yakitori sauce on the side was great, salty, sour, and sweet. It helped a lot.

Finally, I had what the menu calls "Pathai" but the receipt lists more properly as "phad-thai" (195 CZK). It looked very interesting, with the glass noodles, chicken, cilantro, and bean sprouts, wrapped in a thin and delicate egg pouch.I broke it open so you could see inside. Peanuts were sprinkled around the outside and a shrimp sat on top.

This was a major disappointment. The interior was drowned in a super sweet chili sauce. I tried mixing it all up. I tried squeezing lemon on it. Nothing helped. I couldn't even finish this candy-like creation.

After the meal, I tried to sort through my feeling about SaSaZu. The prices were not as high as I expected, but the portions were also quite small -- something akin to appetizers or tapas. A meal for two could run around 1200 CZK, which is still far less than a Buddha-Bar dinner.

Some dishes fell flat, but there were a few I'd go for again.I think I could enjoy a meal there more now that I know the lay of the land, making smart selections.

I'd probably get the Ga Curry, which is one of the more substantial and well-priced items.

And I'd get the soft-shell crab. Perhaps even two orders of that. It would still be a bargain. The Hanoi Shrimp was also nice for the price.

Miss Montana said it would all be so much enjoyable if there was a better balance of salty and sour flavors along with the sweet. Even with my sweet tooth, I agree.

Julie Andrews would fit right in at SaSaZu.

SaSaZu
Holešovická tržnice
Bubenské nábřeží 306
Prague 7
Tel. (+420) 284 097 444

Czech Please on Twitter

2009-07-16T09:34:00.000+02:00

"Brevity is the soul of wit." William Shakespeare

You can find my Twitter updates about stuff that doesn't make it to the blog @CzechPlease.

Da Emanuel

2009-06-30T04:05:00.007+02:00

“It is high time that the ideal of success should be replaced by the ideal of service.” Albert Einstein

I get tips on restaurants to try from a lot of different sources: word of mouth, the internet, email. I can't act on a lot of them.

But when Jersey Girl tells me to check out a place, I listen. She's not just a fellow foodie, but a killer cook as well.

On her advice, we went for Sunday lunch at Da Emanuel, an Italian eatery in Prague 6.The weather was running hot and cold, but we got a table outside in the small space in front of the restaurant. It's on a relatively quiet residential street.

As the sun moved in and out of the clouds, our sweaters were on and off several times during the meal.

The inside dining area was also quite small, but looked nice and intimate, with a vaulted brick ceiling. Maybe too intimate. The tables were quite close together.The waiter brought a bread basket with a variety of nice slices, including good focaccia. There were tasty green and black olives.We were given a bottle of olive oil.

But no plates. And no napkins. And no knives or forks. These all came much later, after we asked the waiter if we could have some.

We ordered a big bottle of mineral water. It was San Pellegrino (95 CZK each). I always find it strange that they ask you if you want it with bubbles or not, but you never know what brand you are going to get.

Later, we ordered a second bottle, but it did not come until V reminded the waiter.

V had a glass of prosecco (85 CZK each).

Later, she ordered a second glass, but it did not come until she reminded the waiter.

A familiar routine.

We put our food order in just before a table of regulars who got welcome kisses from the waiter. The kitchen was not moving too quickly, and V was really steamed when their food came out 10 minutes before ours.

For a starter, V got the grilled calamari (250 CZK). It was excellent.The small squid were super-fresh and cooked just right -- not too long -- so it was very tender.

It also had a light char from the grill that added to the flavor. It was great with just a little lemon and olive oil.

I ordered the Caprese salad (200 CZK). I was in the mood for it, but felt guilty I wasn't trying something more adventurous. However, I was surprised how much I liked it.The bufala mozzarella ball had an amazingly creamy interior, with a fresh, clean tang to it. The tomatoes, which in Prague are often a watery, flavorless disaster, actually tasted like tomatoes.

I added only the smallest splash of balsamic on the side, but it really didn't need it.

For a main course, I had a dish that I try at almost every Italian-Mediterranean restaurant: risotto frutti di mare (280 CZK). It included chunks of quality shrimp, calamari, mussels and clams. Very fresh.I thought it was OK but on the bland side. I added salt and asked for extra lemon to get it closer to where I wanted it to be.

V had the linguine with shrimp and zucchini (250 CZK). She declared it to be the best version of this dish in Prague. And she's had many.Why so good? The flavor of the large shrimp was perfect. It tasted like it had just come out of its shell, not a freezer bag.

In addition to the big crustacean on top, there were good-sized chunks mixed into the pasta along with tomatoes. The pasta itself had also absorbed plenty of the shrimp flavor.

We debated whether the shrimp were overcooked. I found them a little on the tough side and said yes. V thought they were just right and said no.

End of debate.

For dessert, I had the house-made tiramisu (110 CZK).It hit all the right tiramisu notes, and I liked it, but I wouldn't use any superlatives to describe it. V had an espresso with milk (45 CZK).

We thought the food was great, and we definitely plan to return for more. I saw a tagliatelle dish with Italian sausage go by to another table that I really want to try.

The bill for our lunch was 1495 CZK. Expensive, but not bad for top notch food and considering how many things we ordered. And there was a small savings. I didn't tip as much as I usually do.We were annoyed with our waiter and his forgetfulness, but for some reason, we also felt a little sorry for him. He seemed like a nice guy, but he wasn't firing on all cylinders.

I suspect the high times of a Saturday night gave way to the lows of a Sunday afternoon.

If there was just a higher ideal of service in addition to the good cooking and fresh ingredients, I'd consider Da Emanuel the ideal of success.

Da Emanuel
Charlese de Gaulla 4
Prague 6
Tel. (+420) 224 312 934

Le Cornichon

2009-06-23T04:33:00.034+02:00

"Wit is the salt of conversation, not the food." William Hazlitt

I'd been thinking about trying Le Cornichon since I first heard about it more than a year ago. We finally got around to having dinner at this French restaurant in Old Town.

The interior is a modern art piece. Lots of acute angles, funky fixtures, and clashing colors.Brown and beige walls stand in stark contrast to red chairs and white table cloths.And then there are the light fixtures. The shades are made from steel wool. We sat down in the back. Just a few tables were occupied. Immediately, we noticed the music.

V calls it "Doots! Doots! Doots!" music (That's as close as I can get to her verbalization of the techno style tracks).

We receive a bread basket filled with fresh baguette slices.Then came an amuse bouche. It was a partially cooked cucumber topped with something like cream cheese, and a few caviar eggs.Both of us found the texture of the soft, watery cucumber rather unpleasant. There wasn't much flavor to it, either.

V took one small taste and pushed it away. I ate it, but only because I was hungry. I know it was a gift, but still, it's hard to imagine who would appreciate such an offering.

For an appetizer, I wanted something I hadn't tried before. I ordered the oeufs en meurettes (190 CZK).That's a poached egg on bread, smothered in a wine sauce.

It was really delicious -- everything I hoped it would be. I enjoyed every bite of the tangy, buttery sauce.

When my fork broke the soft egg, the yolk ran into the sauce and made it even richer. There was bacon on top. I cleaned the plate with pieces of bread.

V ordered the Cornichon Salad with scallop and pleurotte mushrooms (260 CZK).It came with three good-sized scallops. They were fresh and properly cooked.

But V found the oily dressing boring and the whole thing fairly bland and uninspired.

We ordered a bottle of wine with our meal. I asked our waiter to recommend one of three possibilities from the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

They were all similarly priced, but I was impressed that he suggested the cheapest one - the Corbieres Domaine Castelmaure (460 CZK).It was an uncomplicated wine, but we liked it more and more with each pour.

We asked for a large bottle of water and got San Benedetto still water (160 CZK). I much prefer cheaper bottles of Mattoni, but that's me.

For a main course, V got the Corsican squid (295 CZK). The somewhat thick chunks of squid were fresh and tender, not overcooked or chewy.V loved the bed of mixed wild rice. But that was her favorite part. She said she liked it, but might not get it again.

The dish failed to inspire desire. It tasted of the sea -- of seafood and salt -- but not much else was going on with it. Simplicity can sometimes lead to greatness, but I thought this was just too simple.

I ordered the coq au vin with tagliatelle (295 CZK). It was a very ample portion.The meat had been cooked a long time and was tender, though not terribly moist.

I thought it was too salty and V agreed with me at first. She decided to mention it to the waiter.

He expressed dismay and insisted on going to the kitchen himself. He returned with a knowing look.

"It is not too much salt. Our chef uses very little salt. It is the dry wine he cooks with."

"Ah," V said. "And do you use chicken or do you really get roosters?" She thought ours was a rooster, but she wanted to be 100% sure.

"We regularly get old roosters delivered from Moravia," he replied. After the waiter left, she tried some more of my coq au vin.

"I don't think it's too salty," she said.

"There's your pro-Moravian bias again, I teased. "If it was a Bohemian rooster, you wouldn't be so forgiving."

"No, it's not too salty." I backed off. No need for a cockfight in the middle of dinner.

Mixing the sauce and meat well with the tagliatelle did make it better, cutting the salinity (or dry wine) level.

And there was so much meat, we took some home and made another light meal out of it the next day. I did enjoy it more at home for some reason.

For dessert, I ordered the fondant (160 CZK).This was not the liquid chocolate center cake that also goes by the same name.

Le Cornichon's version was intensely chocolately, but also intensely sweet. It was too sweet for me, and I am a chocolate fanatic with a sweet tooth.

We both felt the rustic-oriented cuisine clashed with the fashionable, modern interior. It's just a subjective feeling, but the food didn't feel like it belonged there.

The only choice that really grabbed me was the egg dish. V liked it, too, and she's not a big egg person. We'd both order it again.

For a stylish place in the center, the prices were not over the top. But our bill, in part because of the wine, was 1790 CZK before tip. Not a cheap country dinner.

Le Cornichon was not bad, but nothing special for either of us. I'd try it again if someone else suggested it, but won't be rushing back on my own account.

If forced to choose, I prefer wit over salt. So I enjoyed the conversation more than food.

Le Cornichon
Betlémská 9
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 222 211 766

Beer Factory - Revisited

2009-06-16T03:23:00.003+02:00

"Ah, beer. The cause of and the solution to all of life's problems." Homer Simpson

It was the weekend of the Prague Post Heavy Hitter's tournament. G-Man called me up saying he need a place to take 12 people -- players and families.

"Short notice on a Friday night? Could be tough." I said. Then it came to me. "Try Beer Factory."It's a subterranean restaurant on Wenceslas Square with beer taps on the table.

Now, if you read my post on Beer Factory from two years ago, you'd know I hated the place. So why recommend it?

First, I had a feeling (correct, it would turn out) that they'd have space for a big group at the last minute. Second, it was central. Third, some people get a kick out of pouring their own beer, even if they do it badly.I had to descend on their spiral glass staircase once again to check it out for myself.My original Beer Factory post got tons of hits from Google searches. At first, this mystified me. Then, it started making more sense as I read the blog comments. A number came from what I believe were 20-something male tourists telling me I was an idiot.

For example, "Aron Hungary" wrote to say, "Cold & good Pilsner, drinking contest, party from about 10.30 with 20 years old girls from all around the world... best place in Prague!"

The main drinking and dining area isn't much to look at. Very industrial. Concrete floors with exposed duct work exposed on the ceiling. The bar area has only a little more going on visually.I arrived late, joined the group, and poured myself a Pilsner Urquell. It was 45 CZK for a half-liter, which isn't a great price, but not over the top for the center of Prague.I still didn't think it tasted particularly good, but it was far better than the nasty tasting brew I had on my last visit.

A little meter on top of the tap keeps track of the amount you've poured.There is also a projection on the wall that tabulates how many beers each table has had. They also show sports.Thus, they combine our innate competitive drive with the acquired desire to drink ourselves senseless. Genius.

I got a look and a few tastes of what other people ordered. Everyone said they liked the onion rings (115 CZK). They were similar to those from Burger King.However, these rings were bigger and crunchier -- sort of like fried breadcrumb rings, with not too much onion flavor. I was sorry they decided to pour sweet chili sauce over the top instead of putting it on the side.

It wasn't a very large portion so I thought the price was high. I should also note now that, as if this writing, their internet menu prices were low by around 20 CZK.

A guy at the table got the Thai chicken salad (185 CZK).I didn't know him well enough to ask for a bite.

"What do you think?" I asked.

"It's pretty good."

"I don't know. That chicken looks pretty dried out." I said.

"Yeah, it's not so good," he confessed. A quick flip under light interrogation. He liked the dressing, but otherwise it looked pretty boring to me.

G-Man and another guy got the spicy beef fajitas (180 CZK).It was really a burrito, with a few red beans, onion, tomato, and even chopped zucchini inside.

Both described it with words like "dull" and "bland" and "mediocre."

Spicy? Not so much.

Another person had the chicken with Parma ham and goat cheese along with bacon onion potatoes (265 CZK)."Nice idea, poor execution," the guy told me. The flavor was lacking.

For myself, I decided to try their Argentinian beef steak. The 200 gram version is 310 CZK, but I got the 300 gram cut for 400 CZK.It was heavily seasoned with salt and pepper. I thought it tasted pretty good. G-Man tried it and liked it as well. There was a ratatouille-like side of eggplant, peppers, and onions. Pretty good.

However, they didn't asked me how I wanted it cooked, and it came out well done.It was a shame because it would have been so much better and more tender if had been cooked to medium or medium rare. Overcooking made it less juicy than it should have been.

The new potatoes on the side were not good. They were overcooked -- mushy and watery.

As for the general atmosphere, it was a very noisy place. A table of football fans rose up regularly for rounds of chanting and clapping.They looked like they were having a great time. I wasn't following their game, so it just served to shut down our conversation.

At the stroke of 10 p.m., all conversation ceased anyway. Thumping dance club music began. I've heard from commenters that it can be quite a party there sometimes. It just wasn't our thing, so we left soon after.

I still have big problems with Beer Factory. But what do I know?

G-Man's out-of-towners seemed happy enough at the end. They'd never seen beer taps on tables before. They really enjoyed that.

As Homer might say, "Woohoo!"

As for me, I'd say that on this particular night, Beer Factory was both the cause of and solution to everyone's problems.

Beer Factory
Václavské náměstí 58
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 234 101 117

Prague Food Festival 2009

2009-06-09T01:37:00.000+02:00

“Life is a festival only to the wise.” Ralph Waldo Emerson

This was my second year at the Prague Food Festival. It was in a new location, at the foot of the Charles Bridge and the embankment below on the Old Town side.I paid the 350 CZK entry fee. Included in the price were ten food coupons worth 25 CZK each.The coupons are called Grands because the festival is organized by Pavel Maurer, who produces the Grand Restaurant guide.

I entered near the bridge by the St. Salvator church and saw the tent for Le Terroir, which was awarded the Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide.I'd always been curious about this place, but to be honest, the high prices put me off.

For four Grands (100 CZK), I had the warm ham off the bone with Savoy cabbage and a potato dumpling. It was OK, but given the restaurant's reputation, I was not impressed.The ham was tender, but quite salty and not very distinctive in taste. The cabbage was relatively bland. So was the dumpling, which had a little chunk of ham in the middle. I've had more pedestrian pub versions of this dish that I've enjoyed more.

I wandered around and realized there weren't very many tents. I asked a staffer where the rest of the festival was.

"You have to take a boat further down the river. They leave regularly from below the Charles Bridge."

"Can't I walk? It's like 200 meters. I can't go out and and come in at the other entrance?"

"I'm afraid not."

Fearing the worst, I made my way down to the water. My fears were unjustified.It was very well organized. A sailor played an accordion to keep me entertained. They had many boats constantly moving through. I got right on and it was only a minute before we were underway.

It was a charming little trip with spectacular views of the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle. We came ashore, and I was attracted to the Corinthia Hotel's tent by the water.They were doing Asian fare.

I had the seared, pepper-crusted tuna with banana chutney and wasabi mayo (100 CZK). I loved this.Tuna, which can be bland on its own, was well-boosted by the crust. The chutney was very sweet and mixed with a little cilantro. Yum! The tangy mayo had a nice kick. I didn't even need the lemon.

I'll jump ahead and tell you I went back at the end to try their dessert. It was fried vanilla and aloe vera ice cream with a mango chili coulis (75 CZK).This invention was interesting but less successful than their tuna. It deep fried to order. The crunchy shell was the best part. The coulis -- let's call it sauce -- was good, but I could hardly detect any chili, let alone heat.I couldn't really taste vanilla. The aloe gave the ice cream a fruity flavor. The biggest problem was it was more like a sorbet -- ice crystals all the way through and not creamy at all. Too bad.

I walked up to the main festival area. It was super crowded.It seemed there was less space than the previous year. I also wrote about the 2008 festival on what is known to many as Žofín Island, close to the National Theater. I don't know how the attendance compares -- I was there during Sunday lunch both times -- but the pathways were certainly wider.

This year, the lines were longer, though they usually moved along relatively well.But it was really hard to move without getting stuck behind masses of people. It did thin out somewhat after 4 p.m.

I went to Aromi's tent and got their potato gnocchi with shellfish (175 CZK). It was a reasonable portion, but one of the more expensive dishes.There were clams, calamari, and part of an overcooked shrimp in mine.

The gnocchi were delicate, but some bordered on mushy. They put bread crumbs on top that were extremely salty and upset the balance for me.The sauce tasted of the sea, but the long-stewed seafood was more about texture than flavor. I hate to say it, but my favorite part was the fresh parsley.

It warmed me up on a cool, gray day, but that's about it.

Next, I went to the tent representing V Zátiší and Bellevue. Zátiší was one of my favorites last year and so it was again this year.

I had the crispy scallop with barley risotto and garlic sauce. (100 CZK).The scallop was huge, and I had the pleasure of watching it cooked in a pan. The flesh was extremely delicate and just the right level of salt.

The barley was pleasantly chewy, a very unique accompaniment with the aroma of shiitake mushroom in the mix. There was one tell-tale slice visible. The man eating the same thing next to me clearly enjoyed it as well.

Next up was the Švejk Restaurant Malostranská Pivnice.I saw lots of people with their little smoked pork ribs and wanted to try them.

They were small, but I got six bones for just 50 CZK, perhaps the best bargain of the day. It came with Czech-style sweet barbecue sauce and horseradish.Unfortunately, they were disappointing. One set of three bones was way too salty. The salinity level of the other set was fine, but those were dry.

Going to Cloud 9 cocktail bar at the Hilton Hotel is on my "to do" list. At their tent, I watched them roughly mixing cocktails in plastic cups with spoons, but felt no thirst. I need it in a glass.

I ordered one of their peppered beef satay skewers (50 CZK). It was served in a little paper cone.The beef was marinated in soy sauce and had sesame mayo. It was probably much better when it was fresh off the grill, but by the time it got to me, it was barely warm and a little dry.

I was running out of stomach space -- fast. But I almost always seem to have room for dessert. Especially free dessert.

Apetit magazine was giving away really good mini chocolate desserts.There's probably a fancy French name for it -- I didn't ask. I will call it a cupcake. It had a lovely, tart, berry... uh... sauce in the center.

There was lots of wine and champagne available. But I had beer. I stood on the long line and had a .3 liter glass of Pilsner Urquell (25 CZK).

I also had .4 liter glass of Master 18° dark beer (50 CZK) from the same brewery.It's pretty strong, but I like it. It has a slight coffee flavor to it.

Overall, I'd say I didn't enjoy the festival as much this year as last year. The weather was certainly a factor -- there were beautiful spring days in 2008. And V wasn't with me this time.

I didn't like this year's food as much. I did want to try the offerings from the Radisson SAS Alcron and Alchymist hotels, but I was too full.

Some good restaurants didn't participate on Sunday. Maybe I made some poor choices and missed some good stuff. I'm sure others may have eaten better than I did.

What was positive? The scallop and the tuna, certainly. The boat ride was fun and the views were better.In total, I paid 850 CZK and got to sample the cuisine of several high-end establishments without having to spend much more than that at each place.

I know more and more people have been discovering this festival. That could mean greater demand for good quality restaurants, and that's a good thing. However, I really have to underline this: the crowds, lines, and tight confines seriously got on my nerves.

If the festival organizers are lucky, the weather will be better next year. And if they are wise, they'll move it to a place with more space.

Giardino - enoteca con cucina - Revisited

2009-06-02T05:49:00.001+02:00

Take care of your garden
And keep out the weeds
Fill it with sunshine
Kind words and kind deeds
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

As the weather turns warm, now is a good time to talk again about one of the more pleasant gardens for dining in Prague.

I'm talking about the one behind Giardino in Vinohrady.It can be a relaxing place to spend a sunny spring afternoon or a warm summer evening.Do not confuse it with Il Giardino at the Mövenpick Hotel, a place I have not visited.

In Giardino's garden, they have blankets in case the temperature drops.The garden is shaded by trees, so there is not a lot of direct sunlight during the day to warm things up.

The interior is nice enough, but I think we only ate inside once.In fact, this picture is from last year. It's not necessarily rational, but this restaurant is tightly associated in my mind with eating outside. We tend not to go in the winter.

On two different gorgeous spring days, we headed straight for the back.The waiter, another Kogo exile, remembered us. Like Mirellie, Giardino's menu is also quite similar to Kogo's. Both have staffs drawn mainly from the Balkans.

Their bread basked came. It was a small, sliced loaf. Good quality, it is usually served warm.The olive oil on the table was fairly bland, though.

For drinks, I had a .3 liter glass of Pilsner Urquell (45 CZK). V started of with a Cinzano martini (90 CZK) and then switched to wine.We had some pleasing starters.

Our favorite is the grilled octopus (150 CZK). Really well prepared. Crisp and crunchy on the outside, delicate and tender on the inside. Delicious.It came with silky, saucy white beans, a little rucola, and lemon on the side. The beans had a sour tang that hit my taste buds the right way. The whole dish was a bargain. V has ordered it on almost every visit. I'm crazy about it now, too.

I had the beef carpaccio (165 CZK). Let me tell you why I liked Giardino's version more than the usual iterations.It came with the standard olive oil, pepper, and lemon. But the raw beef filet was cut slightly thicker than standard. It felt more substantial. The meat also had a deep ruby color, rather than the bright scarlet you might see elsewhere.

In addition to the rucola on top, there was a generous portion of Parmesan shavings, rather than the finely grated stuff. It did need salt.

For a main course, I had the grilled calamari (240 CZK). The squid rested on a big pool of olive oil and came in a variety of sizes.I liked the small ones best. They were fresh and tender, with a hint of sweetness. The two larger ones weren't as enjoyable. They were much thicker, a little tough, and had a slightly bitter aftertaste.

I squeezed all the lemon on top, but overall, the flavor wasn't balanced enough for my taste. It also needed salt, which was not on the table.

V had the dorade, AKA sea bream, baked in salt (380 CZK). She absolutely loved it, saying it was the best fish she'd had "in a very, very long time."She told the waiter how fresh it tasted. He said it had just come in the day before, on Saturday.

V went on about how moist it was after cooking in the salt, as opposed to grilled ones she'd had recently. No joke, she discussed her deep feelings about this fish for days afterward.

For dessert, I had what they call "chocolate soufflé" with vanilla ice cream (95 CZK). It was not a soufflé. It was a fondant.I'm 98% sure it wasn't baked on the premises. It tasted remarkably like a "Melting Middle Chocolate Pudding" from Marks & Spencer.

Nothing for fondant fanatics to write home about. That said, I confess to liking this possibly packaged treat.

We were happy and satisfied after the first two visits this year. I hadn't planned on a third trip, but somewhat spontaneously, we ended up there one more time for a dinner with three friends.

SPOILER ALERT: The third meal had an unfortunate twist. I hate unhappy endings. If you feel the same, then read no further.

For the rest of you, I can report that things started relatively well. Everyone raved about the grilled octopus I recommended.

But I was annoyed by the pop music blaring from the flat-screen TV they have outside.

Jersey Girl had a radicchio salad (165 CZK).It had a large lump of mozzarella on top, which the waiter said was burrata. There were cherry tomatoes. Jersey Girl said the cheese was good, but the chopped radicchio was oversalted.

We had some lovely wine, a 2006 Vranac from Montenegro's Plantaže. Everyone commented on how much they enjoyed it.Very smooth, low in tanins, and an inviting perfume rising out of the glass. We ordered two bottles. Great for just 490 CZK each.

Now comes the disappointing part.

Lady J ordered the sea bass baked in salt (380 CZK). She said it tasted odd. She had a cold so her nose was stuffed and couldn't smell it. She had several more bites (which is why it is pretty torn up in the photo) commenting on the strangeness of the flavor.This is roughly the conversation that ensued.

"I think there's something wrong with my fish," she said. Her husband, who had ordered the exact same dish, took a forkful of hers.

"Oh no, that's really bad!" It was spoiled. V and Jersey Girl said they could smell the rotten odor from across the table. I could see the flesh was desiccated and falling apart. Her husband's looked fine and firm.

I cannot understand how such a bad fish got cooked, let alone served, without the staff noticing.

V summoned the waiter and gave him a stern summary of what had happened and how bad it was. He was very apologetic. He swiftly removed the offending plate and said that desserts and another bottle of wine would be on the house.

Lady J ordered a replacement dish of pappardelle with tuna (190 CZK), which they did charge her for.She said the pasta was underdone, perhaps because it was rushed out. But she said the tuna was overcooked.

For dessert, we just ordered two "chocolate soufflés" for the table. There was more proof that the kitchen was in a hurry and off their game. The fondants have always come out warm or hot. This time, they were cold. The chocolate in the middle was not melted.

When the waiter came out at the end to ask if everything was OK, V calmly but directly let him have it again about the dessert. He was a sorry, defeated man.

I had plenty of kind words for Giardino after the first two visits.

And despite the unpleasant experience, we may give it another chance on a summer evening. I sincerely hope their piscine problem was a one-time issue.

If they don't learn to weed out major mistakes like that, they'll have a nice garden with no customers to fill it up.

Giardino - enoteca con cucina
Záhřebská 24
Prague 2 - Vinohrady
Tel. (+420) 222 513 427

Osteria da Clara Revisited

2009-05-26T06:04:00.040+02:00

"Few things are more tempting to a writer than to repeat, admiringly, what he has said before." John Kenneth Galbraith

Hard to believe, but it has been more than a year since we first visited Osteria da Clara in Vršovice. That was shortly after it opened.

It's a small, Tuscan-inspired place just around the corner from our flat.The British chef and owner, Glen Svarc, used to live and cook in Florence. But he has Czech roots.

We've eaten there many times over the past year, but the menu changes every few months, so it always stays interesting. Some things we didn't love. But there have been a number of dishes that I have severely missed after they were taken off the menu.

So, when I saw the menu once again had a couple of our favorites from when the restaurant opened, we headed over.

And we were turned away. This restaurant, with more or less eight tables, is quite often full now.It wasn't that way in the beginning when I first wrote about it, but it has gotten a lot of positive press, including from the very popular Czech food blog, Cuketka.cz.

I wouldn't advise showing up without a reservation, especially on the weekend.However, we did turn up without one on another night. We were lucky and scored the last free table.

Soon, the breadbasket arrived. It contained wonderful warm focaccia and some sliced quality bread.The focaccia, lightly sprinkled with salt and rosemary, came with an assertive olive oil.

This was not available on our very first visit. I find it irresistible and have a hard time not ruining my appetite by consuming too many slices while waiting for food.

Which leads me to another thing you need to be aware of. When the restaurant is busy, the kitchen and the service can really slow down. Patience is required.We started by sharing a bowl of the soup of the day, tomato bread soup (85 CZK). It was a large portion, and they thoughtfully split it into two bowls for us.It was creamy and the flavors were very balanced. Just the right amount of salt brought up the essence of the tomatoes nicely, along with the basil. The little pieces of soaked bread gave it a pleasant texture and substantial heft. It was almost a meal in itself.

On a second visit, I tried prosciutto, scamorza, pere e noci, otherwise known as Parma ham, smoked cheese, pear, walnuts, rucola, and radicchio with lemon and olive oil (115 CZK).Fantastic. The Parma ham was fresh, moist, and tender. It was a very generous portion. The buttery slices melted in my mouth. The warm, gooey mozzarella-like cheese was a decadently delicious companion.

Perhaps it was luck, but the pear was the sweetest I can remember. My biggest regret was that there were only four slices. I cut it into small pieces and rationed them out so I could have some with each bite.

On that visit, V had zuppa di cozze -- mussel soup (139 CZK). She said the mussels themselves were just OK.They were clean, but some were on the small side, perhaps because the season had passed. No "r" in the month of May.

However, she really enjoyed the tomato-based both under the shells. It was strong, very garlicky, and spicy. The soup had the flavor of the mussels and the sea. There was a slice of bread soaking at the bottom of the bowl.

For a main course, I had one of my all-time favorite dishes, the fettine di maiale in saor -- pork fillets with pine nuts, raisins, caramelized red onions and balsamico (259 CZK).It lived up to my fond memories. The three pieces of pork were pounded flat and very tender. They were dipped in flour and cooked in wine. Very rich.

I like dishes with sweet notes. This was perfect for me. But V's tastes don't always run in the same direction. As I was raving about how good it was, she teased me.

"It's a cake."

"Oh, come on."

"Flour, butter, sugar, nuts. Cake."

"Let them eat cake."

On the second visit, I thought ordering something I hadn't tried before might be better for you, the reader. But me, the eater, couldn't resist another chance to have the fettine di maiale.But this turned out to be an educational choice for us both because it came out differently than other visits. This time, the chef had a heavier hand with the balsamic, moving it more into the sour camp than the sweet. I preferred the way it was the first time.

Also the vegetables changed on different nights. Both times there were sliced potatoes and carrots. The carrots are some of the best I've ever had.

They were cooked in Marsala wine and have a smokey flavor that I think comes from pancetta. They still had some crunch. Good for the health, but I don't want to know how much butter and olive oil they go through every night in the kitchen.

One time, there was zucchini. Another time there was fennel. You never know what you are going to get. But I appreciate that the vegetables are included in the price of the main course. No extra add ons for side orders.

V ordered a favorite dish from a year ago, the spaghetti alla zingara (139 CZK).This pasta excited her the first time she tried it because of the fresh ginger in the mix, a non-classical but creative idea. Per the name, it has a spicy zing.

This time, she didn't love it. She wished for more sauce, there was too much olive oil, and it was slightly overcooked. That said, the portion was huge. She could only finish half at dinner and took the rest home.

But there have been pastas on the menu that were really terrific. One was on the menu a couple of months ago -- a penne with tomato sauce and Italian sausage.It was perfectly al dente. I had actually planned to save some of it for lunch the next day, but I enjoyed it so much, I finished the whole thing.

And I need to mention another penne dish from a previous menu that I still dream about. It was made with mascarpone cheese, pumpkin, and pancetta. Creamy, savory, and sweet.

"It's dinner and desert," was my enthusiastic assessment after I had cleaned the plate. I can't wait for it to appear again.

I usually drink Pilsner Urquell. They only serve it in .33 liter bottles (35 CZK).Bottles of Mattoni mineral water were 30 CZK each. V had one of the house white table wines (35 CZK per glass).

The wine list is one of the really great things about Osteria da Clara. It is all Italian, the prices are relatively low, and we've had quite a few good ones.

The cheapest on the list was 195 CZK and the most expensive was 595 CZK. But there were also wines by the pitcher -- .2 liter, .5 liter, or 1 liter -- that are even better bargains.

For dessert, we shared a house-made tiramisu (99 CZK). Loved it.The topping was so light, I was doubting that was mascarpone. The savoiardi or lady fingers were soaked in a strong espresso.There were chocolate chips and a drizzling of strawberry syrup.

Above all, it was not too sweet. What was most interesting is V does not like tiramisu. I expected her to take one bite and the rest would be for me. But she thought the flavor and texture were quite special. She ended up consuming her full share.

Not content with one sweet ending, V ordered us two shots of Becherovka as a digestif (60 CZK each).

Even though it is outside the tourist center, I regularly recommend Osteria da Clara. Two well-traveled colleagues raved after I sent them over. A diplomat and his wife loved it. My stepfather seriously wanted to eat there every night. After all my referrals, only one person came back not appreciating it.

Just don't raise expectations to unrealistic levels. As noted above, it is not perfect. Not every dish is a winner. Service can be haphazard. The kitchen is not always consistent. But there is a large share of quality.

It's clear the chef's heart and soul is in his work. I've found nothing else quite like it in the city.

And along with original and often delicious dishes, Osteria da Clara has one more key ingredient -- great value.

It's a place that this writer repeatedly returns to, admiringly, again and again.

Osteria da Clara
Mexicka 7
Prague 10 - Vršovice
Tel. (+420) 271 726 548