Czech Please

Da Emanuel

2009-06-30T04:05:00.007+02:00

“It is high time that the ideal of success should be replaced by the ideal of service.” Albert Einstein

I get tips on restaurants to try from a lot of different sources: word of mouth, the internet, email. I can't act on a lot of them.

But when Jersey Girl tells me to check out a place, I listen. She's not just a fellow foodie, but a killer cook as well.

On her advice, we went for Sunday lunch at Da Emanuel, an Italian eatery in Prague 6.The weather was running hot and cold, but we got a table outside in the small space in front of the restaurant. It's on a relatively quiet residential street.

As the sun moved in and out of the clouds, our sweaters were on and off several times during the meal.

The inside dining area was also quite small, but looked nice and intimate, with a vaulted brick ceiling. Maybe too intimate. The tables were quite close together.The waiter brought a bread basket with a variety of nice slices, including good focaccia. There were tasty green and black olives.We were given a bottle of olive oil.

But no plates. And no napkins. And no knives or forks. These all came much later, after we asked the waiter if we could have some.

We ordered a big bottle of mineral water. It was San Pellegrino (95 CZK each). I always find it strange that they ask you if you want it with bubbles or not, but you never know what brand you are going to get.

Later, we ordered a second bottle, but it did not come until V reminded the waiter.

V had a glass of prosecco (85 CZK each).

Later, she ordered a second glass, but it did not come until she reminded the waiter.

A familiar routine.

We put our food order in just before a table of regulars who got welcome kisses from the waiter. The kitchen was not moving too quickly, and V was really steamed when their food came out 10 minutes before ours.

For a starter, V got the grilled calamari (250 CZK). It was excellent.The small squid were super-fresh and cooked just right -- not too long -- so it was very tender.

It also had a light char from the grill that added to the flavor. It was great with just a little lemon and olive oil.

I ordered the Caprese salad (200 CZK). I was in the mood for it, but felt guilty I wasn't trying something more adventurous. However, I was surprised how much I liked it.The bufala mozzarella ball had an amazingly creamy interior, with a fresh, clean tang to it. The tomatoes, which in Prague are often a watery, flavorless disaster, actually tasted like tomatoes.

I added only the smallest splash of balsamic on the side, but it really didn't need it.

For a main course, I had a dish that I try at almost every Italian-Mediterranean restaurant: risotto frutti di mare (280 CZK). It included chunks of quality shrimp, calamari, mussels and clams. Very fresh.I thought it was OK but on the bland side. I added salt and asked for extra lemon to get it closer to where I wanted it to be.

V had the linguine with shrimp and zucchini (250 CZK). She declared it to be the best version of this dish in Prague. And she's had many.Why so good? The flavor of the large shrimp was perfect. It tasted like it had just come out of its shell, not a freezer bag.

In addition to the big crustacean on top, there were good-sized chunks mixed into the pasta along with tomatoes. The pasta itself had also absorbed plenty of the shrimp flavor.

We debated whether the shrimp were overcooked. I found them a little on the tough side and said yes. V thought they were just right and said no.

End of debate.

For dessert, I had the house-made tiramisu (110 CZK).It hit all the right tiramisu notes, and I liked it, but I wouldn't use any superlatives to describe it. V had an espresso with milk (45 CZK).

We thought the food was great, and we definitely plan to return for more. I saw a tagliatelle dish with Italian sausage go by to another table that I really want to try.

The bill for our lunch was 1495 CZK. Expensive, but not bad for top notch food and considering how many things we ordered. And there was a small savings. I didn't tip as much as I usually do.We were annoyed with our waiter and his forgetfulness, but for some reason, we also felt a little sorry for him. He seemed like a nice guy, but he wasn't firing on all cylinders.

I suspect the high times of a Saturday night gave way to the lows of a Sunday afternoon.

If there was just a higher ideal of service in addition to the good cooking and fresh ingredients, I'd consider Da Emanuel the ideal of success.

Da Emanuel
Charlese de Gaulla 4
Prague 6
Tel. (+420) 224 312 934

Le Cornichon

2009-06-23T04:33:00.034+02:00

"Wit is the salt of conversation, not the food." William Hazlitt

I'd been thinking about trying Le Cornichon since I first heard about it more than a year ago. We finally got around to having dinner at this French restaurant in Old Town.

The interior is a modern art piece. Lots of acute angles, funky fixtures, and clashing colors.Brown and beige walls stand in stark contrast to red chairs and white table cloths.And then there are the light fixtures. The shades are made from steel wool. We sat down in the back. Just a few tables were occupied. Immediately, we noticed the music.

V calls it "Doots! Doots! Doots!" music (That's as close as I can get to her verbalization of the techno style tracks).

We receive a bread basket filled with fresh baguette slices.Then came an amuse bouche. It was a partially cooked cucumber topped with something like cream cheese, and a few caviar eggs.Both of us found the texture of the soft, watery cucumber rather unpleasant. There wasn't much flavor to it, either.

V took one small taste and pushed it away. I ate it, but only because I was hungry. I know it was a gift, but still, it's hard to imagine who would appreciate such an offering.

For an appetizer, I wanted something I hadn't tried before. I ordered the oeufs en meurettes (190 CZK).That's a poached egg on bread, smothered in a wine sauce.

It was really delicious -- everything I hoped it would be. I enjoyed every bite of the tangy, buttery sauce.

When my fork broke the soft egg, the yolk ran into the sauce and made it even richer. There was bacon on top. I cleaned the plate with pieces of bread.

V ordered the Cornichon Salad with scallop and pleurotte mushrooms (260 CZK).It came with three good-sized scallops. They were fresh and properly cooked.

But V found the oily dressing boring and the whole thing fairly bland and uninspired.

We ordered a bottle of wine with our meal. I asked our waiter to recommend one of three possibilities from the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

They were all similarly priced, but I was impressed that he suggested the cheapest one - the Corbieres Domaine Castelmaure (460 CZK).It was an uncomplicated wine, but we liked it more and more with each pour.

We asked for a large bottle of water and got San Benedetto still water (160 CZK). I much prefer cheaper bottles of Mattoni, but that's me.

For a main course, V got the Corsican squid (295 CZK). The somewhat thick chunks of squid were fresh and tender, not overcooked or chewy.V loved the bed of mixed wild rice. But that was her favorite part. She said she liked it, but might not get it again.

The dish failed to inspire desire. It tasted of the sea -- of seafood and salt -- but not much else was going on with it. Simplicity can sometimes lead to greatness, but I thought this was just too simple.

I ordered the coq au vin with tagliatelle (295 CZK). It was a very ample portion.The meat had been cooked a long time and was tender, though not terribly moist.

I thought it was too salty and V agreed with me at first. She decided to mention it to the waiter.

He expressed dismay and insisted on going to the kitchen himself. He returned with a knowing look.

"It is not too much salt. Our chef uses very little salt. It is the dry wine he cooks with."

"Ah," V said. "And do you use chicken or do you really get roosters?" She thought ours was a rooster, but she wanted to be 100% sure.

"We regularly get old roosters delivered from Moravia," he replied. After the waiter left, she tried some more of my coq au vin.

"I don't think it's too salty," she said.

"There's your pro-Moravian bias again, I teased. "If it was a Bohemian rooster, you wouldn't be so forgiving."

"No, it's not too salty." I backed off. No need for a cockfight in the middle of dinner.

Mixing the sauce and meat well with the tagliatelle did make it better, cutting the salinity (or dry wine) level.

And there was so much meat, we took some home and made another light meal out of it the next day. I did enjoy it more at home for some reason.

For dessert, I ordered the fondant (160 CZK).This was not the liquid chocolate center cake that also goes by the same name.

Le Cornichon's version was intensely chocolately, but also intensely sweet. It was too sweet for me, and I am a chocolate fanatic with a sweet tooth.

We both felt the rustic-oriented cuisine clashed with the fashionable, modern interior. It's just a subjective feeling, but the food didn't feel like it belonged there.

The only choice that really grabbed me was the egg dish. V liked it, too, and she's not a big egg person. We'd both order it again.

For a stylish place in the center, the prices were not over the top. But our bill, in part because of the wine, was 1790 CZK before tip. Not a cheap country dinner.

Le Cornichon was not bad, but nothing special for either of us. I'd try it again if someone else suggested it, but won't be rushing back on my own account.

If forced to choose, I prefer wit over salt. So I enjoyed the conversation more than food.

Le Cornichon
Betlémská 9
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 222 211 766

Latest Post

2009-06-18T11:02:00.001+02:00

My latest post is up on Expats.cz. We checked out an Old Town French restaurant, Le Cornichon (click to view).

Czech Please on Twitter

2009-06-18T09:34:00.000+02:00

"Brevity is the soul of wit." William Shakespeare

You can find my Twitter updates about stuff that doesn't make it to the blog @CzechPlease.

Beer Factory - Revisited

2009-06-16T03:23:00.003+02:00

"Ah, beer. The cause of and the solution to all of life's problems." Homer Simpson

It was the weekend of the Prague Post Heavy Hitter's tournament. G-Man called me up saying he need a place to take 12 people -- players and families.

"Short notice on a Friday night? Could be tough." I said. Then it came to me. "Try Beer Factory."It's a subterranean restaurant on Wenceslas Square with beer taps on the table.

Now, if you read my post on Beer Factory from two years ago, you'd know I hated the place. So why recommend it?

First, I had a feeling (correct, it would turn out) that they'd have space for a big group at the last minute. Second, it was central. Third, some people get a kick out of pouring their own beer, even if they do it badly.I had to descend on their spiral glass staircase once again to check it out for myself.My original Beer Factory post got tons of hits from Google searches. At first, this mystified me. Then, it started making more sense as I read the blog comments. A number came from what I believe were 20-something male tourists telling me I was an idiot.

For example, "Aron Hungary" wrote to say, "Cold & good Pilsner, drinking contest, party from about 10.30 with 20 years old girls from all around the world... best place in Prague!"

The main drinking and dining area isn't much to look at. Very industrial. Concrete floors with exposed duct work exposed on the ceiling. The bar area has only a little more going on visually.I arrived late, joined the group, and poured myself a Pilsner Urquell. It was 45 CZK for a half-liter, which isn't a great price, but not over the top for the center of Prague.I still didn't think it tasted particularly good, but it was far better than the nasty tasting brew I had on my last visit.

A little meter on top of the tap keeps track of the amount you've poured.There is also a projection on the wall that tabulates how many beers each table has had. They also show sports.Thus, they combine our innate competitive drive with the acquired desire to drink ourselves senseless. Genius.

I got a look and a few tastes of what other people ordered. Everyone said they liked the onion rings (115 CZK). They were similar to those from Burger King.However, these rings were bigger and crunchier -- sort of like fried breadcrumb rings, with not too much onion flavor. I was sorry they decided to pour sweet chili sauce over the top instead of putting it on the side.

It wasn't a very large portion so I thought the price was high. I should also note now that, as if this writing, their internet menu prices were low by around 20 CZK.

A guy at the table got the Thai chicken salad (185 CZK).I didn't know him well enough to ask for a bite.

"What do you think?" I asked.

"It's pretty good."

"I don't know. That chicken looks pretty dried out." I said.

"Yeah, it's not so good," he confessed. A quick flip under light interrogation. He liked the dressing, but otherwise it looked pretty boring to me.

G-Man and another guy got the spicy beef fajitas (180 CZK).It was really a burrito, with a few red beans, onion, tomato, and even chopped zucchini inside.

Both described it with words like "dull" and "bland" and "mediocre."

Spicy? Not so much.

Another person had the chicken with Parma ham and goat cheese along with bacon onion potatoes (265 CZK)."Nice idea, poor execution," the guy told me. The flavor was lacking.

For myself, I decided to try their Argentinian beef steak. The 200 gram version is 310 CZK, but I got the 300 gram cut for 400 CZK.It was heavily seasoned with salt and pepper. I thought it tasted pretty good. G-Man tried it and liked it as well. There was a ratatouille-like side of eggplant, peppers, and onions. Pretty good.

However, they didn't asked me how I wanted it cooked, and it came out well done.It was a shame because it would have been so much better and more tender if had been cooked to medium or medium rare. Overcooking made it less juicy than it should have been.

The new potatoes on the side were not good. They were overcooked -- mushy and watery.

As for the general atmosphere, it was a very noisy place. A table of football fans rose up regularly for rounds of chanting and clapping.They looked like they were having a great time. I wasn't following their game, so it just served to shut down our conversation.

At the stroke of 10 p.m., all conversation ceased anyway. Thumping dance club music began. I've heard from commenters that it can be quite a party there sometimes. It just wasn't our thing, so we left soon after.

I still have big problems with Beer Factory. But what do I know?

G-Man's out-of-towners seemed happy enough at the end. They'd never seen beer taps on tables before. They really enjoyed that.

As Homer might say, "Woohoo!"

As for me, I'd say that on this particular night, Beer Factory was both the cause of and solution to everyone's problems.

Beer Factory
Václavské náměstí 58
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 234 101 117

Prague Food Festival 2009

2009-06-09T01:37:00.000+02:00

“Life is a festival only to the wise.” Ralph Waldo Emerson

This was my second year at the Prague Food Festival. It was in a new location, at the foot of the Charles Bridge and the embankment below on the Old Town side.I paid the 350 CZK entry fee. Included in the price were ten food coupons worth 25 CZK each.The coupons are called Grands because the festival is organized by Pavel Maurer, who produces the Grand Restaurant guide.

I entered near the bridge by the St. Salvator church and saw the tent for Le Terroir, which was awarded the Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide.I'd always been curious about this place, but to be honest, the high prices put me off.

For four Grands (100 CZK), I had the warm ham off the bone with Savoy cabbage and a potato dumpling. It was OK, but given the restaurant's reputation, I was not impressed.The ham was tender, but quite salty and not very distinctive in taste. The cabbage was relatively bland. So was the dumpling, which had a little chunk of ham in the middle. I've had more pedestrian pub versions of this dish that I've enjoyed more.

I wandered around and realized there weren't very many tents. I asked a staffer where the rest of the festival was.

"You have to take a boat further down the river. They leave regularly from below the Charles Bridge."

"Can't I walk? It's like 200 meters. I can't go out and and come in at the other entrance?"

"I'm afraid not."

Fearing the worst, I made my way down to the water. My fears were unjustified.It was very well organized. A sailor played an accordion to keep me entertained. They had many boats constantly moving through. I got right on and it was only a minute before we were underway.

It was a charming little trip with spectacular views of the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle. We came ashore, and I was attracted to the Corinthia Hotel's tent by the water.They were doing Asian fare.

I had the seared, pepper-crusted tuna with banana chutney and wasabi mayo (100 CZK). I loved this.Tuna, which can be bland on its own, was well-boosted by the crust. The chutney was very sweet and mixed with a little cilantro. Yum! The tangy mayo had a nice kick. I didn't even need the lemon.

I'll jump ahead and tell you I went back at the end to try their dessert. It was fried vanilla and aloe vera ice cream with a mango chili coulis (75 CZK).This invention was interesting but less successful than their tuna. It deep fried to order. The crunchy shell was the best part. The coulis -- let's call it sauce -- was good, but I could hardly detect any chili, let alone heat.I couldn't really taste vanilla. The aloe gave the ice cream a fruity flavor. The biggest problem was it was more like a sorbet -- ice crystals all the way through and not creamy at all. Too bad.

I walked up to the main festival area. It was super crowded.It seemed there was less space than the previous year. I also wrote about the 2008 festival on what is known to many as Žofín Island, close to the National Theater. I don't know how the attendance compares -- I was there during Sunday lunch both times -- but the pathways were certainly wider.

This year, the lines were longer, though they usually moved along relatively well.But it was really hard to move without getting stuck behind masses of people. It did thin out somewhat after 4 p.m.

I went to Aromi's tent and got their potato gnocchi with shellfish (175 CZK). It was a reasonable portion, but one of the more expensive dishes.There were clams, calamari, and part of an overcooked shrimp in mine.

The gnocchi were delicate, but some bordered on mushy. They put bread crumbs on top that were extremely salty and upset the balance for me.The sauce tasted of the sea, but the long-stewed seafood was more about texture than flavor. I hate to say it, but my favorite part was the fresh parsley.

It warmed me up on a cool, gray day, but that's about it.

Next, I went to the tent representing V Zátiší and Bellevue. Zátiší was one of my favorites last year and so it was again this year.

I had the crispy scallop with barley risotto and garlic sauce. (100 CZK).The scallop was huge, and I had the pleasure of watching it cooked in a pan. The flesh was extremely delicate and just the right level of salt.

The barley was pleasantly chewy, a very unique accompaniment with the aroma of shiitake mushroom in the mix. There was one tell-tale slice visible. The man eating the same thing next to me clearly enjoyed it as well.

Next up was the Švejk Restaurant Malostranská Pivnice.I saw lots of people with their little smoked pork ribs and wanted to try them.

They were small, but I got six bones for just 50 CZK, perhaps the best bargain of the day. It came with Czech-style sweet barbecue sauce and horseradish.Unfortunately, they were disappointing. One set of three bones was way too salty. The salinity level of the other set was fine, but those were dry.

Going to Cloud 9 cocktail bar at the Hilton Hotel is on my "to do" list. At their tent, I watched them roughly mixing cocktails in plastic cups with spoons, but felt no thirst. I need it in a glass.

I ordered one of their peppered beef satay skewers (50 CZK). It was served in a little paper cone.The beef was marinated in soy sauce and had sesame mayo. It was probably much better when it was fresh off the grill, but by the time it got to me, it was barely warm and a little dry.

I was running out of stomach space -- fast. But I almost always seem to have room for dessert. Especially free dessert.

Apetit magazine was giving away really good mini chocolate desserts.There's probably a fancy French name for it -- I didn't ask. I will call it a cupcake. It had a lovely, tart, berry... uh... sauce in the center.

There was lots of wine and champagne available. But I had beer. I stood on the long line and had a .3 liter glass of Pilsner Urquell (25 CZK).

I also had .4 liter glass of Master 18° dark beer (50 CZK) from the same brewery.It's pretty strong, but I like it. It has a slight coffee flavor to it.

Overall, I'd say I didn't enjoy the festival as much this year as last year. The weather was certainly a factor -- there were beautiful spring days in 2008. And V wasn't with me this time.

I didn't like this year's food as much. I did want to try the offerings from the Radisson SAS Alcron and Alchymist hotels, but I was too full.

Some good restaurants didn't participate on Sunday. Maybe I made some poor choices and missed some good stuff. I'm sure others may have eaten better than I did.

What was positive? The scallop and the tuna, certainly. The boat ride was fun and the views were better.In total, I paid 850 CZK and got to sample the cuisine of several high-end establishments without having to spend much more than that at each place.

I know more and more people have been discovering this festival. That could mean greater demand for good quality restaurants, and that's a good thing. However, I really have to underline this: the crowds, lines, and tight confines seriously got on my nerves.

If the festival organizers are lucky, the weather will be better next year. And if they are wise, they'll move it to a place with more space.

Giardino - enoteca con cucina - Revisited

2009-06-02T05:49:00.001+02:00

Take care of your garden
And keep out the weeds
Fill it with sunshine
Kind words and kind deeds
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

As the weather turns warm, now is a good time to talk again about one of the more pleasant gardens for dining in Prague.

I'm talking about the one behind Giardino in Vinohrady.It can be a relaxing place to spend a sunny spring afternoon or a warm summer evening.Do not confuse it with Il Giardino at the Mövenpick Hotel, a place I have not visited.

In Giardino's garden, they have blankets in case the temperature drops.The garden is shaded by trees, so there is not a lot of direct sunlight during the day to warm things up.

The interior is nice enough, but I think we only ate inside once.In fact, this picture is from last year. It's not necessarily rational, but this restaurant is tightly associated in my mind with eating outside. We tend not to go in the winter.

On two different gorgeous spring days, we headed straight for the back.The waiter, another Kogo exile, remembered us. Like Mirellie, Giardino's menu is also quite similar to Kogo's. Both have staffs drawn mainly from the Balkans.

Their bread basked came. It was a small, sliced loaf. Good quality, it is usually served warm.The olive oil on the table was fairly bland, though.

For drinks, I had a .3 liter glass of Pilsner Urquell (45 CZK). V started of with a Cinzano martini (90 CZK) and then switched to wine.We had some pleasing starters.

Our favorite is the grilled octopus (150 CZK). Really well prepared. Crisp and crunchy on the outside, delicate and tender on the inside. Delicious.It came with silky, saucy white beans, a little rucola, and lemon on the side. The beans had a sour tang that hit my taste buds the right way. The whole dish was a bargain. V has ordered it on almost every visit. I'm crazy about it now, too.

I had the beef carpaccio (165 CZK). Let me tell you why I liked Giardino's version more than the usual iterations.It came with the standard olive oil, pepper, and lemon. But the raw beef filet was cut slightly thicker than standard. It felt more substantial. The meat also had a deep ruby color, rather than the bright scarlet you might see elsewhere.

In addition to the rucola on top, there was a generous portion of Parmesan shavings, rather than the finely grated stuff. It did need salt.

For a main course, I had the grilled calamari (240 CZK). The squid rested on a big pool of olive oil and came in a variety of sizes.I liked the small ones best. They were fresh and tender, with a hint of sweetness. The two larger ones weren't as enjoyable. They were much thicker, a little tough, and had a slightly bitter aftertaste.

I squeezed all the lemon on top, but overall, the flavor wasn't balanced enough for my taste. It also needed salt, which was not on the table.

V had the dorade, AKA sea bream, baked in salt (380 CZK). She absolutely loved it, saying it was the best fish she'd had "in a very, very long time."She told the waiter how fresh it tasted. He said it had just come in the day before, on Saturday.

V went on about how moist it was after cooking in the salt, as opposed to grilled ones she'd had recently. No joke, she discussed her deep feelings about this fish for days afterward.

For dessert, I had what they call "chocolate soufflé" with vanilla ice cream (95 CZK). It was not a soufflé. It was a fondant.I'm 98% sure it wasn't baked on the premises. It tasted remarkably like a "Melting Middle Chocolate Pudding" from Marks & Spencer.

Nothing for fondant fanatics to write home about. That said, I confess to liking this possibly packaged treat.

We were happy and satisfied after the first two visits this year. I hadn't planned on a third trip, but somewhat spontaneously, we ended up there one more time for a dinner with three friends.

SPOILER ALERT: The third meal had an unfortunate twist. I hate unhappy endings. If you feel the same, then read no further.

For the rest of you, I can report that things started relatively well. Everyone raved about the grilled octopus I recommended.

But I was annoyed by the pop music blaring from the flat-screen TV they have outside.

Jersey Girl had a radicchio salad (165 CZK).It had a large lump of mozzarella on top, which the waiter said was burrata. There were cherry tomatoes. Jersey Girl said the cheese was good, but the chopped radicchio was oversalted.

We had some lovely wine, a 2006 Vranac from Montenegro's Plantaže. Everyone commented on how much they enjoyed it.Very smooth, low in tanins, and an inviting perfume rising out of the glass. We ordered two bottles. Great for just 490 CZK each.

Now comes the disappointing part.

Lady J ordered the sea bass baked in salt (380 CZK). She said it tasted odd. She had a cold so her nose was stuffed and couldn't smell it. She had several more bites (which is why it is pretty torn up in the photo) commenting on the strangeness of the flavor.This is roughly the conversation that ensued.

"I think there's something wrong with my fish," she said. Her husband, who had ordered the exact same dish, took a forkful of hers.

"Oh no, that's really bad!" It was spoiled. V and Jersey Girl said they could smell the rotten odor from across the table. I could see the flesh was desiccated and falling apart. Her husband's looked fine and firm.

I cannot understand how such a bad fish got cooked, let alone served, without the staff noticing.

V summoned the waiter and gave him a stern summary of what had happened and how bad it was. He was very apologetic. He swiftly removed the offending plate and said that desserts and another bottle of wine would be on the house.

Lady J ordered a replacement dish of pappardelle with tuna (190 CZK), which they did charge her for.She said the pasta was underdone, perhaps because it was rushed out. But she said the tuna was overcooked.

For dessert, we just ordered two "chocolate soufflés" for the table. There was more proof that the kitchen was in a hurry and off their game. The fondants have always come out warm or hot. This time, they were cold. The chocolate in the middle was not melted.

When the waiter came out at the end to ask if everything was OK, V calmly but directly let him have it again about the dessert. He was a sorry, defeated man.

I had plenty of kind words for Giardino after the first two visits.

And despite the unpleasant experience, we may give it another chance on a summer evening. I sincerely hope their piscine problem was a one-time issue.

If they don't learn to weed out major mistakes like that, they'll have a nice garden with no customers to fill it up.

Giardino - enoteca con cucina
Záhřebská 24
Prague 2 - Vinohrady
Tel. (+420) 222 513 427

Osteria da Clara Revisited

2009-05-26T06:04:00.040+02:00

"Few things are more tempting to a writer than to repeat, admiringly, what he has said before." John Kenneth Galbraith

Hard to believe, but it has been more than a year since we first visited Osteria da Clara in Vršovice. That was shortly after it opened.

It's a small, Tuscan-inspired place just around the corner from our flat.The British chef and owner, Glen Svarc, used to live and cook in Florence. But he has Czech roots.

We've eaten there many times over the past year, but the menu changes every few months, so it always stays interesting. Some things we didn't love. But there have been a number of dishes that I have severely missed after they were taken off the menu.

So, when I saw the menu once again had a couple of our favorites from when the restaurant opened, we headed over.

And we were turned away. This restaurant, with more or less eight tables, is quite often full now.It wasn't that way in the beginning when I first wrote about it, but it has gotten a lot of positive press, including from the very popular Czech food blog, Cuketka.cz.

I wouldn't advise showing up without a reservation, especially on the weekend.However, we did turn up without one on another night. We were lucky and scored the last free table.

Soon, the breadbasket arrived. It contained wonderful warm focaccia and some sliced quality bread.The focaccia, lightly sprinkled with salt and rosemary, came with an assertive olive oil.

This was not available on our very first visit. I find it irresistible and have a hard time not ruining my appetite by consuming too many slices while waiting for food.

Which leads me to another thing you need to be aware of. When the restaurant is busy, the kitchen and the service can really slow down. Patience is required.We started by sharing a bowl of the soup of the day, tomato bread soup (85 CZK). It was a large portion, and they thoughtfully split it into two bowls for us.It was creamy and the flavors were very balanced. Just the right amount of salt brought up the essence of the tomatoes nicely, along with the basil. The little pieces of soaked bread gave it a pleasant texture and substantial heft. It was almost a meal in itself.

On a second visit, I tried prosciutto, scamorza, pere e noci, otherwise known as Parma ham, smoked cheese, pear, walnuts, rucola, and radicchio with lemon and olive oil (115 CZK).Fantastic. The Parma ham was fresh, moist, and tender. It was a very generous portion. The buttery slices melted in my mouth. The warm, gooey mozzarella-like cheese was a decadently delicious companion.

Perhaps it was luck, but the pear was the sweetest I can remember. My biggest regret was that there were only four slices. I cut it into small pieces and rationed them out so I could have some with each bite.

On that visit, V had zuppa di cozze -- mussel soup (139 CZK). She said the mussels themselves were just OK.They were clean, but some were on the small side, perhaps because the season had passed. No "r" in the month of May.

However, she really enjoyed the tomato-based both under the shells. It was strong, very garlicky, and spicy. The soup had the flavor of the mussels and the sea. There was a slice of bread soaking at the bottom of the bowl.

For a main course, I had one of my all-time favorite dishes, the fettine di maiale in saor -- pork fillets with pine nuts, raisins, caramelized red onions and balsamico (259 CZK).It lived up to my fond memories. The three pieces of pork were pounded flat and very tender. They were dipped in flour and cooked in wine. Very rich.

I like dishes with sweet notes. This was perfect for me. But V's tastes don't always run in the same direction. As I was raving about how good it was, she teased me.

"It's a cake."

"Oh, come on."

"Flour, butter, sugar, nuts. Cake."

"Let them eat cake."

On the second visit, I thought ordering something I hadn't tried before might be better for you, the reader. But me, the eater, couldn't resist another chance to have the fettine di maiale.But this turned out to be an educational choice for us both because it came out differently than other visits. This time, the chef had a heavier hand with the balsamic, moving it more into the sour camp than the sweet. I preferred the way it was the first time.

Also the vegetables changed on different nights. Both times there were sliced potatoes and carrots. The carrots are some of the best I've ever had.

They were cooked in Marsala wine and have a smokey flavor that I think comes from pancetta. They still had some crunch. Good for the health, but I don't want to know how much butter and olive oil they go through every night in the kitchen.

One time, there was zucchini. Another time there was fennel. You never know what you are going to get. But I appreciate that the vegetables are included in the price of the main course. No extra add ons for side orders.

V ordered a favorite dish from a year ago, the spaghetti alla zingara (139 CZK).This pasta excited her the first time she tried it because of the fresh ginger in the mix, a non-classical but creative idea. Per the name, it has a spicy zing.

This time, she didn't love it. She wished for more sauce, there was too much olive oil, and it was slightly overcooked. That said, the portion was huge. She could only finish half at dinner and took the rest home.

But there have been pastas on the menu that were really terrific. One was on the menu a couple of months ago -- a penne with tomato sauce and Italian sausage.It was perfectly al dente. I had actually planned to save some of it for lunch the next day, but I enjoyed it so much, I finished the whole thing.

And I need to mention another penne dish from a previous menu that I still dream about. It was made with mascarpone cheese, pumpkin, and pancetta. Creamy, savory, and sweet.

"It's dinner and desert," was my enthusiastic assessment after I had cleaned the plate. I can't wait for it to appear again.

I usually drink Pilsner Urquell. They only serve it in .33 liter bottles (35 CZK).Bottles of Mattoni mineral water were 30 CZK each. V had one of the house white table wines (35 CZK per glass).

The wine list is one of the really great things about Osteria da Clara. It is all Italian, the prices are relatively low, and we've had quite a few good ones.

The cheapest on the list was 195 CZK and the most expensive was 595 CZK. But there were also wines by the pitcher -- .2 liter, .5 liter, or 1 liter -- that are even better bargains.

For dessert, we shared a house-made tiramisu (99 CZK). Loved it.The topping was so light, I was doubting that was mascarpone. The savoiardi or lady fingers were soaked in a strong espresso.There were chocolate chips and a drizzling of strawberry syrup.

Above all, it was not too sweet. What was most interesting is V does not like tiramisu. I expected her to take one bite and the rest would be for me. But she thought the flavor and texture were quite special. She ended up consuming her full share.

Not content with one sweet ending, V ordered us two shots of Becherovka as a digestif (60 CZK each).

Even though it is outside the tourist center, I regularly recommend Osteria da Clara. Two well-traveled colleagues raved after I sent them over. A diplomat and his wife loved it. My stepfather seriously wanted to eat there every night. After all my referrals, only one person came back not appreciating it.

Just don't raise expectations to unrealistic levels. As noted above, it is not perfect. Not every dish is a winner. Service can be haphazard. The kitchen is not always consistent. But there is a large share of quality.

It's clear the chef's heart and soul is in his work. I've found nothing else quite like it in the city.

And along with original and often delicious dishes, Osteria da Clara has one more key ingredient -- great value.

It's a place that this writer repeatedly returns to, admiringly, again and again.

Osteria da Clara
Mexicka 7
Prague 10 - Vršovice
Tel. (+420) 271 726 548

Sbarro Pizza at Flora Mall

2009-05-19T05:54:00.011+02:00

“You better cut the pizza in four slices because I'm not hungry enough to eat six.” Yogi Berra

I just got back from Naples, where I had a truly amazing Pizza Margherita from the famed restaurant, Da Michele. I wrote about it on my blog -- it was so simple, and yet really something special.

That said, I grew up eating New York-style pizzas. And while I can respect and, occasionally, enjoy something different, I'll never love another pizza as I do my home slice.

Much has been written about pizzas in this town. The Prague Post used to have annual best pizza contests. So, I was surprised to find little has been said about Sbarro, which has been in Prague for a few years now.I'm not really sure why I'd never been to the one in Prague before. This was a natural for me -- a chain that started in New York and makes New York-style pizza.

I went to the food court at Palac Flora to check it out.The mall also has McDonald's, KFC, and a variety of quasi-Asian options. It's worth a trip to the bottom level to check out the French patisserie, Paul.Sbarro's serves a number of other kinds of food besides pizza such as pasta, meats, and vegetables. But I had no interest in those.They didn't look nearly as appetizing as what you'd find at an American Sbarro.

They did have a pizza man working out front for the customers to watch.But he's not always out there. A good number of regular pies had already been pre-made and awaited reheating.They also had a number of thick-crust and "stuffed" pizzas filled with meat or vegetables, with a crust folded over the top.I had a specific mission in mind. I told the girl behind the counter I wanted a whole pizza to take back to my office. Her eyes grew wide.

"A whole one?" she asked. "I have to ask." It seemed this had never been done before.

Permission was secured and a large box was found. It was 29 CZK per cheese slice and 39 CZK per pepperoni slice. I got two pepperoni for myself because they didn't have enough cheese slices prepared.The total was 252 CZK.

Back at the office, the response was generally positive. But in the 15 minutes it took me to get there, the pizza had lost almost all of its warmth.

One person liked the generous amount of cheese. Another, an American, admitted being a huge Sbarro fan and said he went as soon as they opened. He still goes regularly.One colleague compared it Domino's.

Here's my take.

This pizza had potential, the sauce and cheese were pretty good, but it suffered on one major count. I've tried it a few times now, and the crust has always been stale from sitting too long. That really killed it for me.

If freshly made, it could be so much better, but I've never had that. In fact, they always seemed to have been sitting around a long time.

Before leaving, I asked the manager if I could have their telephone number so I could call ahead and place an order for pick up.

"No, that's not possible," I was informed. Another strange and unusual request, it seemed.

On another visit, I tried a slice of the stuffed pizza with meat (77 CZK).I liked this the best. It was full of tomato sauce, sausage, pepperoni, and very bready sliced meatballs. Tasty, substantial, and filling.

My last time there, I tried their thick-crust pizza with ham and mushroom (62 CZK).I also stole a somewhat blurry shot of someone else's tray with a thick-crust spinach and mushroom pizza.Maybe it is the closest thing to pan pizza in this town.

I didn't really like mine. The toppings, cheese, and sauce were fine, but the counter girl failed to heat it properly. It was hot on the outer edges and cold in the middle.

Also, the crust was just too thick and bread-like and the topping didn't penetrate down into it. Proper heating might have done the trick, but it just didn't happen.

Call me crazy, but my favorite and most New York-like pizza in Prague is from Pizza Grosso, the small hole-in-the-wall in the nasty passage behind the National Museum. Only 30 CZK for a quarter of a pizza, with often a great, crispy crust on reheating and a well-seasoned sauce.

From some night owls, I've heard claims that Pizza Roma at I.P. Pavlova is better. But I don't buy it.

Places like Rugantino's can be OK, but it's just too European for me. My brain was imprinted from an early age to fly in New York pizza formation. There's little I can do about it now.

My feeling about the Sbarro at Flora is one of great disappointment.

With proper preparation and attention to detail, it could be quite good. But after watching the careless way they run it, I have a strong feeling it will never live up to its potential.

So, next time I'm at Flora, maybe I'll be hungry enough for just one slice. Just in case they've figured out how to do it right.

Sbarro Pizza
Flora Mall
Vinohradská 151
Prague 3

Ego Restaurant

2009-05-11T01:56:00.003+02:00

“The ego is not master in its own house.” Sigmund Freud

I've been eating in a lot of fancy restaurants lately. But it's not all champagne wishes and caviar dreams for me.

Sometimes, we just want to go somewhere close to home that offers a few things outside the usual hospoda fare. One place that fits the bill is called Ego.It's a little spot across the street from the Bohemians 1905 football stadium in Vršovice.

There aren't so many tables, and sometimes they are full. You take your chances when showing up unannounced.There's just one long room below street level with brick walls and uncomfortable chairs and benches.The prices are pretty reasonable. Yet, despite my earlier claim to common tastes, I must confess my favorite thing there is also among the most expensive items on the menu.

I really like the "bull steak" with jalapeno pepper (360 CZK). It comes with a whole jalapeno jammed right in the middle of the filet.

On the last visit, I ordered it medium, but they undercooked it, perhaps because it was such a thick cut. It was very rare.The meat was quite tender. Warning: this thing will set your mouth aflame.

The steak sat on top of a sweet and spicy pool of barbecue-style sauce. But it is their own mixture that didn't come from a bottle. Not directly, anyway.

Unfortunately, the price does not include side items. Last time, I got it with "American potatoes."They offer a wide variety of fried and baked spuds for around 40 CZK. These were pretty greasy and cut too fat for my taste.

There's an online menu, but it was not up to date when I checked it.

V wanted to go healthier and ordered a whole trout with cream sauce (120 CZK).She was very impressed with the freshness and quality of the fish. She was not so happy with the sour cream-based concoction on the side. After one taste, she just avoided it.

She got some regular fries.They were a bit underdone.

Ego is a Pilsner restaurant -- it says so on the wall outside -- so that's what I drank.They also have Gambrinus.

I went again more recently and decided to try their "sweet ribs" (155 CZK). They were served in a metal enamel tray.These were big-boned ribs, so it looked pretty massive. The meat was first smoked before it was finished in the oven, giving it a redish color. But it was also on the dry side.

As the name says, it comes with a sweet sauce, but it is not very sweet and used sparingly. On the side, there was also mustard, chopped onion, and horseradish.I didn't use much of this -- it didn't work well with the sauce. The ribs also come "Buffalo style" but I haven't tried that.

On the side, I had potato rosti.This ain't haute cuisine. But I just love those crispy, crunchy things.

I'm not sure if it is fair to mention, but more than a year ago, I did try the ginger, honey, and lime wings. I throw this out there because I still have the picture.Despite the promise of the delicious-sounding preparation, they were lacking much of the hoped for flavors. And they left the tips on the wings, which is a turn off for American wing purists. If they've changed they way they do them, I'd love to hear about it.

I'd say this restaurant is nothing so special that you should go out of your way to try it.

Sure, a little Ego can be a good thing now and then. But I wouldn't call us regulars.

For that to happen, the proprietors would have to be better masters of their own house.

Ego Restaurant
Oblouková 25
Prague 10 Vršovice
Tel. (+420) 271 720 997

Naples, Ischia, and Capri, Italy

2009-05-06T06:07:00.033+02:00

“Traveling is a fool's paradise... I pack my trunk, embrace my friends, embark on the sea and at last wake up in Naples, and there besides me is the stern fact, the sad self, unrelenting, identical, that I fled from.” Ralph Waldo Emerson

Naples is a city that is a pretty ugly, dirty, and chaotic on the outside.Hidden away on the inside, it is pretty, history-laden, and bursting with charm and flavor and art from the Renaissance to Roman times.It's a place where three 11-year old girls piled on a careening scooter will come close to taking your life, forcing you back onto a filth-strewn, construction-blocked sidewalk. The driver will give you a chirpy horn toot after the fact to remind you who is capo di tutti capi.

Naples is also where you will taste magnificently simple but wonderful food and see gorgeous church interiors.Basically, you go to Naples for something completely different.Which was what we wanted.

Lucky for us, a Neapolitan native was on the plane and gave us a ton of good advice. I'll give you a brief rundown on the food.

For pizza, we went to the famous Da Michele. People line up for a table at all hours. They only make two kinds -- margherita and marinara.

I discovered the wait for a table at this modest-looking spot was quite long. You take a number and wait outside for it to be called.However, you can put a takeaway order in straight away and get it in about 10 minutes.

We got ours and went to a pastry cafe across the street where they let us eat our pizza and order a few beers to go with it.

After all the hype about this pie -- it was in our guide book and a magazine article, as well -- I thought it should be great. And it was. Simple genius.I searched for a way to describe the flavors and the word that came to my mind was "bright."

The San Marzano tomato sauce really jumped out. The mozzarella, made from cow milk, not buffalo, had a clean, cream-like taste. The airy, almost fluffy crust had a char and smokiness picked up from about 90 seconds in the superhot oven. They say they've been doing it this way since 1870.

And this great pizza cost just €4.50 (a little more when you factor in airfare and hotel).

Not far away, just around the street from the Duomo, was another recommended place, which was our favorite.

Antica Osteria Pisano di Ippolito Anna had only eight tables, an open kitchen, and a great, cheap home-style cooking.I had the rigatoni a l'amatriciana for €5.Just Parmesan, pork, and tomato sauce with fresh tomatoes, but it didn't need more.

Their seafood pasta (I don't have a picture) was just terrific. The clams and mussels were the sweetest and freshest I can remember, and the pasta, which had absorbed the flavor of the sea, was perfectly salted.

Four dishes, plus house wine and mineral water came to €36.

We also tried the touristy Gran Caffe Gambrinus. It has a lovely interior.But the expensive cappuccino was nothing special.

The sfogliatelle, a beautiful filo-like pastry stuffed with orange-flavored ricotta was not so fresh -- a little too chewy.We had a beer, two glasses of wine, a coffee, an orange sorbet, and the sfogliatelle and the bill was €35.

Finally, we took a ferry ride out to Ischia.It took an hour and cost €16 per person each way. I rented a 125cc scooter (€30 for eight hours), put V on the back, and we circumnavigated the island.Apparently, according to EU law, you now need a proper motorcycle license to rent a bike like this. Which I don't have.

But as V said, "It's Italy, baby. Anything is possible." And it was. I just had to convince the woman I knew what I was doing.

Anyway, we stopped at a very nice beach in Forno, near the thermal baths on the side of the island opposite from the port.It's a place we'd like to return to someday.

We had lunch at La Sirena del Mare.It looked like a simple beach restaurant, but the food was better than expected. With the roaring sea in front of us, we had a very lemony plate of marinated anchovies (€7.50).I had a seafood risotto (€11), which was basic and just OK, a little gritty.The mixed salad (€4) didn't look like much, but it had fantastic tomatoes.They had the perfume of a fully seasoned tomato sauce all by themselves. It's just so rare to find that in tomatoes elsewhere.

Near the end of the ride, we stopped at the Castello Aragonese.But they wanted €10 to go inside, so we just admired the outside.

We also went to Capri.We enjoyed lying in the sun for a few hours on the stony beach at the harbor. But otherwise, it was way too touristy and crowded.There were lines for boat tours, lines for the funicular up to the town, lines for the funicular tickets, and lines for gelato.We had a bad, overpriced, tourist-trap lunch.

This was our second time on Capri, and we decided there was no need to return again.

Would I recommend a visit to Naples? I don't know. It's not for everyone. There's a lot not to like.

I'd just say that it is something of a fool's paradise. The stern fact is that you should expect the worst. But then you just might enjoy what's best.

Czech Please on Washington Post and Slate

2009-05-05T14:45:00.005+02:00

"The press is the best instrument for enlightening the mind of man, and improving him as a rational, moral and social being." Thomas Jefferson

That genius Jefferson forgot to mention that it is good for finding out about where to eat and drink.

Speaking of which, I was following the press this morning, The Washington Post to be specific, and I came upon this column by Anne Applebaum. It is about the expansion of Starbucks into Central Europe.

And where she mentions the move of the coffee empire into Prague, there is a link to my post on the subject. The article is also posted on Slate.

I'm not sure how Ms. Applebaum came to be a reader, but I'm glad to welcome hers here.

Perpetuum - Prague Duck Restaurant

2009-05-04T13:59:00.012+02:00

"Be like a duck. Calm on the surface, but always paddling like the dickens underneath." Michael Caine

I was among several friends who have been wanting to try Perpetuum for a long time.We'd all heard good things about this upscale place specializing in duck in Dejvice.

We wanted to make a group visit. But it wasn't until recently that the stars aligned and our schedules collided.

V and I got there first and walked down the steps by the bar into the dining room.There were six of us, and we were given our own room.The restaurant was pretty quiet that night. Only two other tables were occupied.Eventually, our group was assembled. It was quite dark there, and some had trouble reading the menus.

I held mine up to the light and had to read the offerings out loud for the table.

We were given a breadbasket.It had some decent rolls, but I was partial to the bread sticks.

On the side was something pretty unique. There was a little dish filled with cold duck fat, mixed with slivers of duck meat and vegetables.I thought it was delicious, putting all thoughts of the cardiovascular implications out of my mind. It was an interesting twist on the Czech tradition of serving pork fat before meals.

The beer on tap was Budvar 12 degree.It was 40 CZK for a half-liter.

Others ordered a bottle of wine, a 2007 Malbec from Doña Paula Estate (790 CZK).Everyone was happy with it. There were a few wines in the sub 1000 CZK category, but many that were higher. We wished for a few more economically priced options.

For a starter, V had the duck carpaccio (140 CZK).The delicate, thin red slices vanished quickly off her plate. But perhaps the most interesting was the apple-celery salad in the middle. Really lovely flavor, with a very light, extremely creamy texture.

I had the duck breast marinated in a Madeira reduction (150 CZK). It came with a tartare of plums, served with pineapple cooked in aged aceto balsamico. The meat was very flavorful, and the fresh pineapple was a nice touch. But I did like V's better.

Four of our group had the sweet and sour tomato salad with spring onions and chopped chives (60 CZK).It is listed as a side order, but the restaurant was happy to serve it as an appetizer. The consensus was that it was quite sweet, but that was to be expected, given the menu description.

For a main course, three people ordered the half home-bred duck with stuffing, apple–white cabbage marmalade, and a sage sauce (380 CZK).You can also get just a quarter duck (280 CZK).

J said it was "beautifully cooked," crispy on the outside, moist and tender inside.

"It's amazing how such a tradition dish can shine in the hands of a bright chef," he said. "The combination of the apple and sauerkraut with the stuffing really helped make it special.

This dish was on "The Chef Recommends" section of the menu. Everyone who ordered it also agreed they'd recommend it, as well. V loved it.

L had a quarter of a roasted duck with vegetable pancakes and mushroom juice (280 CZK).I didn't try it, but it looked good, and she said she liked it.

I ordered the grilled Barbarie duck breast on mashed potatoes with smoked onion, stir-fried spinach and a caramelized apple (360 CZK).The meat was served medium rare. The breast was not so tender, so a sharper knife would have helped. It was fresh, but somewhat bland by itself. But that issue was solved when I combined it with the apple, which I cut up into small, bite-sized pieces.

There was also a pitcher of thick, rich duck gravy that I added to make it even better.

I thought the wilted spinach was cooked just right. It was warm, but still had some crunch to it. It said the dish came with pancetta, but it looked more like a slice of bacon. I enjoyed the dish, but I think I'd go with what V and the others had next time.

The tab for the six of us was 4260 CZK. We thought it was a good value and a fair price. That included several after dinner drinks, coffee, and tea. Including tip, it worked out to 800 CZK per person.

Everyone loved the food and the style of the place. The service was efficient, friendly, and unobtrusive. There was no sense of impatience, even though we lingered quite late, engaging in a friendly, but pointed political debate over the coffees.In a place like Perpetuum, one must realize that somewhere close by the placid domain of the dining room, a few people must be working pretty hard behind the scenes to make it such a pleasant and flavorful experience.

Very duck-like.

Perpetuum - Prague Duck Restaurant
Na Hutích 9
Prague 6
Tel. (+420) 233 323 429

Hard Rock Cafe - Prague

2009-04-28T04:31:00.002+02:00

"Any problem you can't solve with a good guitar is either unsolvable or isn't a problem." Unknown

Perhaps it will hurt my expat street cred, but I confess my interest was immediately tweaked when I heard a Hard Rock Cafe was opening in Prague.After all, I am an American guitar player with a penchant for good hamburgers. I fall into a very specific demographic niche.

Just days after Prague's Hard Rock started doing business, I went to the restaurant on Malé náměstí, just off Old Town Square. They converted the old V.J.Rott building, with its neo-Renaissance façade, into the familiar, music-themed restaurant.Within the establishment's 1900 square meters are three levels and two bars. The platform behind the downstairs bar can be turned into a stage for live acts.This location is considered the largest Hard Rock Cafe in Europe.

When I arrived, I was directed up the stairs, past old wood paneling and a painting from the building's past life.V was not interested in joining me, so I was dining solo. Sometimes, when you eat by yourself, you get the feeling you aren't a valued customer.Unfortunately, this was one of those times. The place was barely half full, and they directed me to one of the worst tables in the house.

It was next to the swinging doors of the kitchen. So, I can report they have white-tiled walls in there. This area also turned out to be a rather hectic meeting spot for the many servers.

In the opposite direction, the table did have a good view of the five meter-long guitar-shaped chandelier and the bar on the floor below."Are you eating alone?" the smiling waitress asked.

"Yes, just me."

"Awww." She made a sad face. "Really?"

"Just me. You can join me if you want," I said. So, she did. Cute.

We talked for a minute about where I was from and whether I was enjoying Prague.

"So far, it's been pretty good," I said.

Her name was Tereza, and I was her first customer. She was very nice and not in a scripted, corporate way. Refreshing.

It's understandable she thought I was a visitor. After a good look at the prices, I realized tourists are probably the target customer rather than long-term expats. I'd also note that I couldn't find a Czech language version of the restaurant's website.

Our enjoyable tête-à-tête concluded after I ordered a bacon cheeseburger (280 CZK) and a chocolate shake (120 CZK).

Now, I've studied the burgers all over Prague. This one was excellent.I'd call it the second best in the city (I'll tell you my favorite in a moment).

The top-quality meat was flame-grilled. This is key in my book. There was American-style bacon and cheese, plus lettuce, tomato, pickles and onion. The bun was perfectly toasted.

The fries came with a little skin on them. But they were just barely warm.

For the record, I'd say the best bacon cheeseburger in Prague is at Bohemia Bagel in Holešovice. It is very large, flame-grilled, with more bacon and a slightly better bun. It edges out the win for my affections even before you add the fact that it is only 155 CZK, fries included.

Then, it's no contest.

The Hard Rock's chocolate shake, topped with whipped cream, was extremely thick.The generous amount of chocolate ice cream was nice, but it wasn't mixed well. It was too thick to drink.

You can quote me on this: I sucked really hard. The flimsy straw failed to maintain structural integrity and collapsed. I had to wait a while for the ice cream to melt before I could partake.

Over the loud music, Tereza told me that ice water was free. I like the bubbly stuff, so I ordered soda water, thinking for some reason that would be free, too.My mistake, but it cost 60 CZK. That's more than a half-liter of Staropramen, which is only 50 CZK.

So, the bill for this trip was 460 CZK. It was a good, classic American meal, with a fun and fast waitress. I was quite full. But I considered it a steep price to pay for a burger, shake, fries, and water.

My curiosity levels about other offerings was still high, so I went back the next night. By myself. And they tried to give me the exact same table again. Which I refused.

It felt like that scene from "Animal House," where the rich fraternity boys repeatedly direct the two misfit pledges, the hapless Larry Kroger and Kent Dorfman, to the room for social outcasts.

On this second visit, I ordered their famous Hickory-smoked Pulled Pork Sandwich (250 CZK).It came with fries, baked beans, and coleslaw.

I had a pretty young-looking guy as a waiter this time. He told me the pulled pork came with a choice of barbecue or a vinegar sauce. The latter sounded more unusual and intriguing. I asked for that.

When I took the first bite, two things happened.

First, half the pork fell out of the bun onto the plate. It was a huge amount of meat. Plan on using a knife and fork at some point.

Second, the super sour vinegar and slaw hit the back of my throat, and I had to stifle a serious cough.

Man, that was strong stuff. I made sure there was much less of it in each bite.

The pork itself was shredded and tender. I love smoked meat, but I couldn't detect much in the way of smoke flavor.

The beans were quite sweet. I ended up pouring them on top of the pork. Maybe I'd have been happier with the barbecue sauce.

The fries were properly cooked and delivered much hotter than those on the first visit. The little ramekin of coleslaw was nothing special.

The Hard Rock Cafe has a cocktail menu with lots of pretty pictures. I decided to try a couple.

First, I had a Golden Rita, AKA a margarita (180 CZK). It was made with Jose Cuervo Gold Tequila, Triple Sec, and Hard Rock Margarita mix.It came in a classic margarita glass and was strong. However, for the money, I was expecting something a little more... impressive. I wished the glass was filled a little higher.

I prefer my margaritas on the sour side. This one was too bland for my taste, even after I squeezed in all the juice from a thick lime slice. I suppose it could appeal to more middle of the road tastes.

I asked the waiter for extra ice. It never came. In fact, he disappeared for a long time. When I wanted a second cocktail, a waitress noticed my forlorn look and took my order.

I went for the Mojito (130 CZK).Bartenders tell me this is the most popular cocktail in Prague, by far. And I've had more than my share for comparison.

I thought this one was just bad. It was intensely sweet, almost syrup-like.

I usually find mojitos refreshing, but this candy-like cocktail really dragged me down. I'd urge them to change their recipe.

Suffice it to say, I was in no mood for dessert.

The bill for this second visit totaled 560 CZK. The majority of the tab was for the two drinks.

I felt I had to return one more time. There was one more thing I wanted to try. I went for an early lunch right after they opened at 11:30 AM.

This time, the greeter asked me if I'd like to sit at the downstairs bar. I said no, so he then told me to pick any table I wanted.

I had a very earnest and friendly waiter named Kevin from Sweden. Then, I saw my old friend, Tereza, and we had a good chat about life in the restaurant business. Since there were few other customers, they both kept me company and made sure I had everything I needed.

I ordered the Hickory-Smoked Bar-B-Que Ribs (390 CZK). They came with fries, baked beans, and coleslaw.The rack had a number of positives going for it. The meat had some char to it along with the smoky flavor I'd been looking for. It was also quite lean. I liked their sauce. It was not too sweet and had a nice tang.

However, there is a downside to lean ribs. They were not as tender as I expected. The menu says the meat falls off the bone, but I had to use a knife and pull pretty hard to get them apart.

I also thought they should have been hotter. Like many restaurant ribs, these had to be cooked mostly in advance. That's how they can come out 10 minutes after you put in your order. It was a lot to eat and the ribs lost a lot of their warmth by the end of the meal.

Now, there is a strain of thought that restaurants shouldn't be reviewed until they've been opened a while. But I reject that.

I know the realities of new operations, but my feeling is that I'm paying the same prices that people will pay six months from now. They should be firing on all cylinders from the start.In the end, I concluded I did not really belong in the Hard Rock Cafe's target demographic.

On my way out, I browsed past the restaurant's guitar collection. Instruments used by REO Speedwagon, Seether, and Asia didn't do too much for me.

But I must admit I was awed by what is probably the most prized item. On the stairway was Bob Dylan's well-worn Gibson acoustic/electric guitar, along with a hand-written set list written by the man himself.I stared into the display case and, for a long moment, I forgot about my problems with issues like the prices, the mojito, and the waiter who forgot about me.

It's amazing what a good guitar can do.

Hard Rock Cafe
Dům U Rotta
Malé náměstí 3
Prague 1
Tel. (+420) 224 229 529

Céleste Restaurant and Bar

2009-04-21T08:42:00.001+02:00

"Dancing is a perpendicular expression of a horizontal desire." George Bernard Shaw

It's a famously original building with a few different names and lots of interesting angles.This architectural landmark is known as the "Dancing House." And "Fred and Ginger." And the Nationale-Nederlanden building after the bank that commissioned it.I'd always been curious about the restaurant that once lived atop the Frank Gehry/Vlado Milunić creation. But the menu and the prices of La Perle de Prague left me uninspired.

We never went.

When I heard La Perle had closed and was replaced by a new restaurant, I found the online menu of Céleste. And there I found inspiration for a visit.

The prices were a bit lower, but not cheap by any means. Just reading the menu on the web, I had trouble deciding what I would order on a visit. We headed over on Good Friday to test my decision-making skills.

We crossed the busy intersection in front of the building, pausing look back and take in the early evening view of Prague Castle across the river.We entered the small street-level bar , called Bar Céleste. The server there approached us with an officious tone.

"Yes, hello. Can I help you?"

"We're here for dinner."

"Do you have a reservation?" He move quickly toward us, and there was something like suspicion in his voice.

"Yes."

"May I suggest a drink at the bar before you start?" I considered it for a moment, but just then, a noisy car went through the intersection outside the open door and convinced me otherwise.

"We'll go up to the restaurant." He called the elevator.

The man gave us both an unpleasant feeling. But I want to be fair. I did walk in with my little camera out, thinking I'd take a picture of the bar.

The building attracts plenty of tourists, and several were snapping pictures outside. I'm sure pushy shutterbugs have to be fended off on occasion if they wander inside.

When the elevator door opened on the top floor, we had a very different experience.We immediately recognized the host, and he recognized us. He used to run the restaurant Atelier in Vrsovice. We were regulars there until it was sold and went downhill. It closed down a while ago.

We looked around the modern-art inspired dining room.It is divided into a larger, circular area, and a smaller, thumb-like section. The host said we could choose one of two tables in the different sections.Most have great views across the river, but he saw us looking longingly at an unoffered two-top with the best direct view of Prague Castle.

"You're the first ones here. You can take that one." We've lived in Prague for many years and see the castle all the time, but V was still thrilled.Each table had a purple tulip, in keeping with the room's purple accents.

Before the meal, I took a walk out onto the building's terrace.There were no tables out there, but it'd be a nice place for some when the weather stays warmer at night.

A waitress brought a bread basket and asked us to choose the type we wanted. Maybe it's just me, but I prefer to have the basket on the table.

V got rosemary bread, and I had an onion roll.V's was slightly warm. Mine wasn't and I wished it was. But still, this was good stuff, fresh, moist, and a little sweet. There was fresh butter with fleur de sel.

I took note of the music. It was barely audible, and nondescript, with some drum beats bleeding through. We both thought something more stylish and soothing and at a proper level would add to the atmosphere.

Then came the amuse bouche, a duck foie gras mousse. I'd say it was one of the best pre-meal offerings I've ever had.It was served in a small espresso cup or demitasse, but it was substantial.

Underneath a creamy foam was the smoothest, lightest, cleanest-tasting pate I can recall. It had a hint of sweetness along with a subtle, nutty flavor. With its cool, ice cream-like consistency, it was something I could imagine having for dessert.

And here, perhaps, is the highest praise of all. V cannot stand duck or goose liver. She had a taste and actually took a second bite, clearly impressed. I'd never seen that before. Still, she gave me the rest of hers, which I gladly consumed.

Before the amuse bouche came, I almost ordered the duck foie gras terrine starter. I was glad I didn't -- that would be too much, even for me.

I was very curious about the ravioli main course. The host said it would be no problem to get a half order as an appetizer (188 CZK).It rested on a pool of perfectly melted butter. Assertive Parmesan cheese shavings and sage sat on top. The small ravioli held a generous amount of ricotta, which I have fondness for.

I'd say the dish was competent, but simple, with no big wow factors. One of the reasons I ordered the ravioli was because I love sage. We even grow it at home. So, I wished it came with more than just a few small leaves.

V got the half Atlantic lobster (495 CZK). On the side was beetroot and jus perfumed with star anise.She was in heaven. The cold lobster meat, most of a claw and half a tail, had been properly prepared -- delicate and sweet. In this town, we've had our share of mediocre, over-cooked, over-priced lobsters.

The beets had a clean flavor, without much of the earthy taste I usually associate with that root vegetable. When we finished it, I asked V for her opinion.

"Any comments?"

"Can I have more?"

"Enough said."

V was drinking wine by the glass, a Grüner Veltliner, I believe. (150 CZK each). We also shared two .7 liter bottles of Mattoni (110 CZK each). I was glad they offered Czech mineral water, unlike some places that only pour fancier Italian stuff.

As I mentioned, I had trouble deciding what I would order. I was torn between the Moravian lamb chops and the Moravian veal tenderloin. In the end, I went for the veal (525 CZK). It came with "marbled Marsala juice," Corrinthian raisins, and a creamy polenta.Sorry about the soft focus on the photo -- I was in too much of hurry to get a taste and didn't check it carefully.

On the plate was a tender cut of meat, not very large, sliced into four smaller pieces. It could have used a touch more salt, but it was close to perfectly seasoned.

The rich sauce was lightly sweet, and the raisins provided bursts of greater sweetness. I do tend to enjoy sweet dishes and favor anything Moravian (V is both). I'd probably get it again -- after I tried the lamb chops.

The polenta deserves special mention. It was fantastic. Spiked with rosemary, it was impossibly creamy. We were fighting over the three dollops of it on the plate.

I used to hear people rave about Gordon Ramsay's creamy mashed potatoes, and I have to say, he should take creamy lessons from this polenta.

V got the scallops (600 CZK). They had a morel crust and came with asparagus.We both felt disappointed.

First, three of the four scallops were very small. Second, those three were also slightly overcooked. There was too much toughness to the flesh. The fourth one was larger and, perhaps because of its size, was cooked correctly. It was much more delicate and tender.

V is a big asparagus fan, more so than me, but she thought that, despite the fancy presentation and the addition of "green marmalade" it was fairly ordinary. We didn't really figure out what the "marmalade" was, aside from diced asparagus. I'd have to say the morel crust was my favorite part -- very buttery.

For dessert, I ordered the chocolate lingot (195 CZK).Essentially, it was a chocolate mousse, on top of a long, thin cookie, with a strip of dark chocolate in the middle, and covered with dark chocolate.

On the side was an intensely sweet and sour orange syrup. The flavor reminded me of an orange lollipop. In a good way.

If you are into intense cocoa experiences, this is for you. I'm one of those people, and I liked it on that level. But I agreed with V's assessment that there wasn't much that was original or extra special about it.

Perhaps our host sensed V's need for the exotic, and he suggested a special dessert. Usually, we share just one, but she decided to get the strawberries with Reisling jelly and fresh thyme (195 CZK)."It's different and weird. Like me," she said. I agreed. The thyme was a great touch.

V finished with an espresso (65 CZK).

She asked for milk with it, which came heated in a tiny pitcher.

The thought the odd lumps of sugar were cute.

The total bill came to 2933 CZK without tip. That's a lot for a dinner. The servings were fairly small. But I did feel full afterward.

Was it worth the money?

The scallops weren't. And perhaps not the ravioli. The lobster, veal, and strawberries were.

It was something of a split decision. I asked V if she would want to return to the Dancing House for dinner.

"Yes," she said, flashing an expression of horizontal desire. "For that view. And to try the lamb."

And so we shall.

Céleste Restaurant
Tančící dům (Dancing House)
Rašínovo nábřeží 80
Prague 2
Tel. (+420) 221 98 41 60

Restaurace Zvonařka

2009-04-20T05:19:00.005+02:00

That all-softening, overpowering knell
The tocsin of the soul - the dinner-bell
Lord Byron

It was a beautiful spring evening, and my boss asked me to suggest a place for a farewell drink for a departing colleague.

He had two conditions: We should be able to sit outside to enjoy the warm weather and it should be relatively close to Wenceslas Square.

A colleague had already called Restaurace Mušketýr, and it was booked. I knew Bredovský dvůr would be, as well. I thought Riegrovy sady beer garden wasn't appropriate.

In the end, I came up with Restaurace Zvonařka.The place is known for its large terrace, if not for its food. And I was correct in my assumption that the terrace would not be full. It's a nice spot, but often overlooked.In past summers, they fired up a grill outside, but it was too early in the season for that.

The word "zvonařka" is somewhat hard to define in modern usage. I was told by someone with a degree in Czech linguistics that it means something like "bell foundry" or a place for bells.

The restaurant sits on the edge of a hill. On one side, there is a view of the rich villas of Vinohrady.And on the other side, there is a view of the train tracks of Vršovice and the lesser environs of Nusle.When the leaves really come out, you see a lot less.

I had a half-liter of Gambrinus (29 CZK).Someone else drank Kozel dark (35 CZK).Pilsner Urquell is also available (35 CZK).

We ordered a round of cheese nachos (90 CZK) for the table. These were quite bad.The very ordinary chips were covered with melted cheese that quickly cooled and hardened. Trying to pick up one chip often resulted in picking up 13 others that were stuck together. You had to peel the chips apart from the cheese. Very awkward.

The salsa was some sweet stuff from a jar. Pretty standard in Prague.

We ordered a few rounds of the large plate of 16 chicken wings with Buffalo sauce (150 CZK). These were very good.They were large, cooked just right, and I liked the sauce. It was sweeter than a classic American Buffalo sauce, but still had a nice tang. I ate many of these.

Later, we ordered a round with barbecue sauce, but the sauce was exactly the same. We weren't sure if we had gotten the wrong sauce the first time or the second time.

We didn't bother to ask because the service was not very good on the terrace, and we had a hard enough time just getting an order in.

There are two large rooms inside. I had a big birthday party there a few years ago.

They were very cool about giving me one of the rooms, without guaranteed minimum charge for the house. I just ordered a modest amount of food in advance and brought a lot of thirsty people, and they were happy. I don't know whether that deal is still available.

On this visit, we also ordered a few spicy klobasy or sausages (75 CZK each).They were quite popular at the table, so I had a hard time getting a picture before they had succumbed to knives and forks. They came with bread, mustard and horseradish. I thought they were a bit on the dry side, but not too fatty and quite tasty.

So, if you are looking for a place to hang out in good weather, maybe have some good wings, and can't think of where to go, perhaps Zvonařka will ring a bell.

Restaurace Zvonařka
Šafaříkova 1
Praha 2 Vinohrady
Tel:224 251 990

Czech Please on Expats.cz

2009-04-15T00:10:00.009+02:00

A new Czech Please development to report. I've partnered up with the website, Expats.cz.

The deal is this: They get first-run of a blog post.

I get some support for my rather excessive food and drink habit.

That's it.

Otherwise, everything else is the same as before. I remain editorially independent. The blog follows my life and not vice versa. No one tells me where to go or what to do.

Posts that appear on Expats.cz will go up on this site a week later. For a debut, we did something special. We tried out the new French place on top of the "Dancing House," Céleste Restaurant and Bar.

If you have any questions or comments, I'll do my best to answer them.

Pâtisserie St. Tropez

2009-04-06T05:54:00.007+02:00

"There is nothing better than a friend, unless it is a friend with chocolate." Charles Dickens

Passion Chocolat was like an old friend. And I missed it when it was gone.

The pâtisserie and cafe on Italska was on my way to work.I used to stop by at the stroke of 8:00 a.m. a couple of times a week and pick up a warm pain au chocolate, fresh from the oven. Or a croissant filled with vanilla cream. Or a chocolate cookie. Or all of them.

It was in a bright and modern store-front space in a beautifully constructed building.But as the sweet proprietor, Nadine Musso, told me, things weren't working out there.

Five months later, Nadine and her husband Jean-Francois have opened a new place, Pâtisserie St. Tropez.It is just off Wenceslas Square, in Lucerna's Dům U Nováků.The easiest way to find it is from the entrance on Vodičkova. From that side, you can see the cafe's Art Deco exterior.The good news is that all the French-style cakes and pastries are just the same as they were before.Personally, I'm partial for anything with chocolate. Or creams. Or custards.They have whole cakes, as well. They really are edible works of art.Things can get a little nutty - I've heard a few people raving about these sweets.Getting back to chocolate, they still make their own special bon bons.They also do special holiday chocolates -- I saw specially designed eggs for Easter. Some of the creations have plenty of kid appeal -- as if the chocolate alone is not enough.Speaking of kid appeal, M. Musso makes the chocolates on the premises and you can see him at work through the glass walls.He wasn't producing any while I was there, but I'm sure it's fun to watch.

I like these people, I like their desserts, and I like the look of their new shop.I think the new, central location, with a lot of foot traffic, will work out much better for them.

What I don't like is that it is not on my way to work anymore. But it's often worthwhile to go out of your way to see a friend. Especially a friend with chocolate.

Pâtisserie St. Tropez
Palac Lucerna - Dům U Nováků
Vodičkova 30
Tel. (+420) 222 524 333
Mobile (+420) 724 547 565

Fosil Mexican Bar and Kitchen

2009-03-25T07:02:00.044+01:00

"Any authentic creation is a gift to the future." Albert Camus

I was in a bar a few nights ago and, as I often do, I was talking about food.

I was lamenting the lack of good Mexican restaurants in Prague and recounting my recent disappointing visit to Cantina.

I also mentioned the failings of the city's other Mexican places like Amigos (spoiled beef quesadillas!), Sonora (bland chimichanga), Buffalo Bill's (not what it used to be), and Žlutá pumpa (OK, but not it).

I came to drink with G-Man. But it was my karmic good fortune that he was with three very nice and interesting people who hailed from Mexico, one of whom lives in Prague. This good man did not just listen sympathetically to my complaints. He also gave me advice.

"Go to Fosil," he said. "It is the only real Mexican in Prague."He is a friend of the owner and told me to mention his name if I went. That's not my style -- I like to keep a low profile. But I went the very next night.

It was a Friday. There are only five tables. I was alone, so I was happy to sit at the bar.I started with a margarita (95 CZK). Very good. The chef came out of the kitchen to make it.He squeezed limes in his fists over a blender, threw in tequila, triple sec, and Cinzano Limetto. That's all. There were a few ice cubes, but not enough to make it slushy. Then, he blended it, and poured it all into a martini glass.

It took quite a while, but it was worth it. Quite tart, not too sweet. Nice kick. It did make me wonder how he could keep up with the cooking. It made me hesitate to order a second one, while waiting for my food. But I liked it too much and went for it.

As an appetizer, I got guacamole and chips (90 CZK). It was the best I've had in Prague.The avocados were blended to a creamy state, and mixed with cilantro, tomatoes, green chilies, and a lot of chopped, raw onion.

It was quite spicy, especially when I got a piece of hot pepper caught in the back of my throat. A swig from my margarita cleared that up nicely.

It looked like a small portion in the dish, but it lasted through many chips. I really enjoyed it.

For a main course, I ordered the tacos de bistek (180 CZK).Out came three steaming hot tacos filled with beef, fried onion, and refried black beans, covered with melted cheese. The most pleasant surprise was that they were made with soft, warm corn tortillas.

I had never seen soft corn tortillas anywhere in Prague before. A few days later, I saw a package of them in Tesco Eden, but Fosil's were far superior with a much stronger corn flavor.

However, the beef was a disappointment. It didn't have a lot of flavor, and it was very tough. I also wished the black bean refrito had more seasoning. But I'll tell you, those tortillas made me forgive a lot of sins.

And there was another reason for absolution. It came with four different bottled Mexican chili sauces -- red and green habanero sauces, chile arbol sauce, and chipotle pepper sauce.I tried them all, and loved them all. I couldn't make up my mind which one I liked best.

They really saved the day and the dish. I enjoyed it in the end.

I was pretty excited about the place, so I took V the next night, calling ahead to make sure we got a table. Good thing because it was full except for that table when we arrived.I should add that I wanted to go another night with friends after work, but no one answered repeated calls, so we didn't go because we didn't want to risk being turned away.On this visit, V had the margarita and loved it, too. In fact, she had three. She did ask for no salt and it came with salt on the rim, but she was easy going about it and didn't send it back.

I tried the pina colada (100 CZK).Extremely basic, not very good. It was very foamy from the blender. The pineapple juice quickly separated from the cream and foam.

Then, I went for the coco loco (100 CZK). I didn't realize it would come in a coconut, and I can't remember the last time I had a drink with an unbrella in it.The bar guy made a hole with a cork screw and poured in the alcohol. Then, he had a difficult time getting two straws in the little hole.

I forgot what was in it, but it tasted a lot like a pina colada. I wouldn't recommend it, either. It was gone in four sucks on the straw.

When we started eating, I switched to beer. I had a half-liter of Pilsner Urquell (33 CZK).They also had Gambrinus on tap.

V tried the guacamole and also thought it was great. Later, she decided to pick something that sounded exotic and she'd never tried before, so she got the Plato Azteca (195 CZK).There was a shredded chicken in a sweet mole. The real deal. Yum.

There were nopales (prickly pear), black beans rice, cheese, and a corn tortilla taco -- I guess that was the part called alambre on the menu. It may have been chicken with onions, and peppers. But I couldn't really tell you exactly what is under all that cheese. It was dark.

V tends to be more adventurous than me, and loves new and different things. So, I was a disappointed when she said the flavors were too strange for her, and she didn't like her dinner. Especially because I enjoyed it all.

The Mexican gentleman I met had recommended I try the Al Pastor (170 CZK). So, this time, I did. And I was very happy.There was marinated pork, cilantro, diced raw onions, and fresh pineapple. Lime wedges sat on the side.

On paper, this combination did not look so appealing to me. But on the palate, I loved it. I didn't even add any hot sauces to this one. It was just right as it was. There was only one defect. On this night, the corn tortillas were a bit al dente and chewy at the edges.

The service on the first night I went was pretty good, and I was in and out in about an hour.On the second night, it was busier. I'd heard things moved slowly there, so I wasn't surprised it took almost 45 minutes to get our guacamole. The whole meal took over two hours, but we were drinking a lot and not starving, so it didn't bother us that much.

One table ordered a big platter for four -- the waiter let me get a look at it.There were "pigs in blankets," quesadillas, and black beans, among other things.

Also, I saw something I'd never seen before -- the waiter was taking pictures of the food, himself. So, he didn't think too much about my penchant for food photography.

The waiter brought us a gift of a small piece of house-made lemon cake he carved out of a tupperware container.It was delicious -- a good combination of sweet and sour.

The final tab that night was 1041 CZK, which was more than fair because we had six cocktails, two beers, and a bottle of Mattoni mineral water.

I will return to Fosil. I want the al pastor, the guacamole, and the margaritas again. And that mole, too. If someone asks me my favorite Mexican restaurant in Prague, I will now say "Fosil."

Sure, the service was slow, some cocktails were misfires, and the beef tacos needed work.

But it is run by Mexicans, and there is a feeling and a taste of authenticity that I've never found anywhere else in the city.

This ain't Czech-Mex, muchachos.

I look forward to having some of those authentic creations in the future.

Fosil Mexican Bar and Kitchen
Bělehradská 66
Prague 2
Tel. (+420) 737 502 824

Cantina

2009-03-25T01:06:00.006+01:00

“What the United States does best is to understand itself. What it does worst is understand others.” Carlos Fuentes

There is no consensus on the best Mexican restaurant in Prague. But more often than not, you'll hear the name Cantina.

The place has been around for a long time and has a good location near the heart of Malá Strana.The combination of location plus reputation means it is almost always full.

Showing up without a reservation at this relatively small place often means you will be turned away.So, I was surprised when we were able to snag a table for lunch on a weekend afternoon.For a long time, I'd been wanting to see why some people like it so much. I ate there once many years ago and wasn't terribly impressed.

When the waiter came over, V ordered a bottle of Corona with lime, and I reflexively said to make it two.

I know she ordered this beer for nostalgic reasons, but I felt regret as soon as the waiter left.

First, it was way overpriced (85 CZK). Second, it is not good beer.

It's like drinking a club soda with lime, which is pleasant enough, but not worth the money. Still, it reminded us of old times back in the USA, and that's worth something.

For a starter, I had the Sopa Azteca (50 CZK). It is described as a traditional Indian soup with beans, corn, tomatoes, nachos, and cheese.Disappointing.

It was seriously bland. I ended up doing the seasoning myself, first adding salt, and then throwing in plenty of the hot sauce on the table. It was OK after that.

The finely shredded white cheese was pretty to look at, but very annoying to eat. It melted into the soup, and when you tried to eat it, it left strings of gooey cheese on your chin with every bite. I need to use a knife with my soup?

I ordered a frozen margarita (120 CZK). Terrible.

There was almost no flavor.

It was desperately lacking in lime and even sweetness. It just tasted like a tequila slushee.

At least there was plenty of alcohol in there to help me forget.

For a main course, I had the quesadilla lomitas (230 CZK). A fried flour tortilla was filled with cheese, pork tenderloin, green onion, cilantro, and jalapenos.Another disappointment.

I thought the pork was cut too thick, and I really didn't taste any marination or seasoning beside salt. There was hardly any cilantro. The green onions were overcooked and lost their flavor.

The whole thing just bored me. If it wasn't for the jalapenos, I would have fallen asleep.

V ordered the mixed chicken and beef fajitas (289 CZK). It came out on an iron skillet. It was hot, but lacked the spectacle of a full sizzle.On the side, they served little dishes of refried black beans, sour cream, and red rice with a few sad corn niblets thrown in.

There was also a small amount of unremarkable guacamole.

The meat picked up a lot of flavor from heavy seasoning, but we wished it got more from charring in the pan. There was a ton of onions and peppers.

The whole thing came with two large flour tortillas, but we had order one extra to eat it all. Overall, it was pretty good, but nothing special.

The brightest spot of the lunch was the service. Very friendly, attentive, and efficient. I'll admit, in a place so popular and busy, I expected less. A pleasant surprise.I can now check Cantina off my "to do" list. There's nothing there that would make me go out of my way to return.

Personally, I've never really had good Mexican food in Prague, so there's not a lot of competition.

Why do some people think Cantina is the best Mexican in Prague?

Don't ask me. I can't understand them.

Cantina
Ujezd 38
Prague 1 - Malá Strana
Tel. (+420) 257 317 173

Argument Restaurant-Cafe

2009-03-21T09:51:00.042+01:00

"I argue very well. Ask any of my remaining friends." Dave Barry

What made me want to try Argument?

Two things: I liked the name, and I heard they had really nice lamb chops. Sometimes, that's all it takes.

We went for an early dinner.The restaurant was only about a five minute walk from the Hradčanská metro station.

The interior reminded me of my grandmother's place. That was actually a good thing.My grandmother was a very stylish, Dutch-born woman, who surrounded herself with modern art, bright colors, and clean lines.

The banquettes looked just like my Oma's couches. She liked orange chairs, too, but maybe that's a Dutch thing.I felt very at home in this restaurant. That's said, this style can be polarizing. V thought the fabrics were too bright and rough.

The waitress brought out bread. They charge 20 CZK for that. It was cold baguette slices, no butter or olive oil.

For a starter, I had the tuna tartare (160 CZK). It was shaped into a cube and was a generous amount for the price.There were bits of avocado mixed in, but unfortunately, they were not ripe. The tuna itself was fairly salty and didn't need the extra soy sauce on the side.

I didn't like it so much at the beginning. But then I discovered that the rucola underneath had a very sweet dressing. When the salad and tuna were combined on the fork, the flavor balanced out, and I enjoyed it.

V had the Burgundy snails (135 CZK). Six of them were covered with plenty of butter and garlic.The snails themselves were OK, but didn't impress. They had more of that garden flavor than those you'd find at Cafe Savoy, her favorite snail source.

I had a .3 liter glass of Pilsner Urquell (38 CZK each).V had a couple of Mattoni mineral waters (35 CZK) and a shot of Jägermeister (55 CZK).

Yeah, I thought it was an odd choice, but she said she had a taste for it. To me, it tastes like medicine.

For a main course, I gave V the honor of ordering the lamb chops in a honey crust (355 CZK). They were all I'd hoped and dreamed.There were two double chops and one triple on the plate. They were cooked perfectly as requested, medium rare. They were oh so tender.

The delicate lamb sat on a lovely sauce that tasted of plums and wine, but we weren't exactly sure of its composition. We wished there was more sauce. We wiped the plate clean.

There was also rucola with cherry tomatoes. Even the crust was just right.I can easily imagine a big name restaurant in the center charging double the price.

I was in the mood for a steak. The menu has them divided by tenderloin versions, called svíčková, or a more ordinary cut called roštěná.

I went for the beef tenderloin, topped with bacon, and a thyme demi-glace. (360 CZK).There was grilled corn on the side.

I got a separate order of fries to go with it (45 CZK).I asked for some ketchup and was surprised when they told me they had none in the restaurant.

I was even more surprised when I tasted the house-made frites and discovered they were the best I'd had in a long time. They were terrific all by themselves, which is pretty rare in my book.

However, the steak itself was disappointing. It wasn't bad, just very unremarkable. It wasn't tough, but not too tender. They did cook it to my requested medium-rare.There was no stand out flavor. The demi-glace was dominated by too much salt, with the other flavors hiding too far in the background.

I'm sorry to invoke Cafe Savoy again, but they used to do a demi-glace for their entrecote that inspired love in my heart. They don't make it anymore, and this one didn't come close to requiting that lost love.

The bacon on top was a total disaster. I'm not sure how they cooked it, but it had the consistency of plastic. It was like eating a smoked credit card.

On the plus side, the grilled corn was good. We enjoyed passing it back and forth to nibble on the niblets.

We ordered the chocolate fondant for dessert (95 CZK).It was pretty average and could have used a more intense chocolate.

Don't get me wrong -- even an average fondant is still enjoyable for me. But it didn't impress like the one at Buddha Bar or Maze (R.I.P.).

I should add that the menu says it comes with ice cream, the receipt mentions ice cream, but when you examine the photo, you will not see ice cream. We weren't in a complaining mood, so we let it slide.

The bill came to 1371 CZK. Not a cheap dinner. And for that money, I wouldn't go out of my way to go back for most of it.

However, I'm the type of person who can fall in love with one dish, become obsessed with it, and have to go back just for that.

And that's what those little lamb chops have done to me.

I'd argue, as I often do about restaurants, that Argument is worth trying just for those alone.

I'd even recommend them to my remaining friends.

Argument Restaurant-Cafe
Bubenečská 19
Prague 6
Tel. (+420) 220 510 427

Sami Grill

2009-03-04T04:33:00.030+01:00

"I shall make that trip. I shall go to Korea." Dwight Eisenhower

I've never been to Korea. I've rarely even eaten Korean food. One of the few times was at Hanil in Prague, which we usually go to for sushi.

So I barely know kimchi from bibimbap.

Still, I was intrigued when I saw that Sami Grill opened up in the Vinohrady space formerly occupied by the Thai restaurant, Tiger Tiger.The interior was changed with new lighting and a white and light green color scheme. It was too bright for us.They have special tables with built-in gas grills imported from Korea.

There was another unique feature. The tables have buttons you can push to call the waitress. Push it and you hear an electronic "ding-dong" in the other room.We had two half-liters of Krušovice (40 CZK each) and a .33 liter bottle of Mattoni mineral water (40 CZK).The menu had no real appetizer section to speak of so we went straight to the main event.

We really wanted to try out the grill. I took a peek under the protective stainless steel cover.There were a few pieces of charcoal, with flames fueled by a built-in gas can with a control knob.

V asked for the duck, but was told it was not available. She didn't want the pork, so she ended up ordering the pricey grilled rib eye (390 CZK).

The unmarinated meat was well-marbled. The waitress cooked it on the grill along with mushrooms, onions, and garlic.It was a somewhat awkward procedure.

We were given side dishes. There was a dish with bean sprouts, kimchi, another kind of pickled cabbage, and a little seaweed salad.There was another little dish with sesame oil and a very salty soy sauce-flavored paste.And there was a salad with a lot of onions and what tasted like a rice vinegar dressing. The waitress said there was wasabi in it, but I didn't really taste it.The beef itself? I'd be hard-pressed to identify it as rib eye in a taste test. It wasn't tough, but it wasn't rib eye tender, either.

The flavor was pretty unremarkable. Disappointing. I dipped it in the salty soy sauce paste or the sesame oil to keep it interesting. The vegetables were only lightly fried and had nothing special going on.

When they said it was grilled over charcoal, I was really looking forward to that smoky taste. It wasn't there.

When the food was removed later, I saw that the charcoal under the grill had barely burned at all. The food was mostly cooked by the gas flame and the heated ceramic blocks.

I ordered the bulgogi (280 CZK), which a table next to us recommended. I had, in fact, heard of this dish before. I have a friend from L.A. who has spoken of his love for it.

It was brought to the table raw.There were onions, carrots, mushrooms, and sesame seeds mixed in with marinated beef.

The waitress/chef threw it all into the wok at the table and fried it up. The beef was not the highest quality, but it was pounded hard and shredded to the point that it achieved a certain tenderness.It tasted pretty good, but perhaps it was a little too sweet. As I was eating and thinking this, I realized it would have been much better with rice. It did not come with any, and none was suggested.

Halfway through. I ordered a side of rice (35 CZK), and it really helped. However, it brought the price of this course up to 315 CZK, which was really more than I thought it was worth.

Whether it was a good iteration of this dish, I don't know. I have nothing to compare it to. Perhaps a Korean foodie can say. It was nice, but didn't excite me enough that I'd dreaming of having it again.

The service was friendly, but chaotic. The waitress/chefs were moving in and out of the rooms, alternately stirring the food in a wok, clearing plates from another table, running out, coming back, taking an order, and then stirring some more.

The cooking was not getting the attention it deserved. I also had trouble getting clear descriptions of the food from the waitresses.

There was also a humorous moment.

A couple in the same small room as us didn't like the bright lighting, either. They realized they were sitting next to the dimmer switch and turned it down to a more romantic level.

They looked over at us, wondering if it was OK, and we encouraged them to leave it low.

We all had a little laugh.

A short while later, the waitress came in, took care of some things, and walking by the dimmer on her way out, pushed the lighting all the way back up again.

We all had a big laugh.

Our final bill was 825 CZK without tip.

They bring some complimentary pealed apple slices with it.

One could certainly eat more cheaply by avoiding the rib eye (which I would).

But it wasn't so cheap for basically two courses, a couple of beers, and a water.

There are several other places that combine Japanese and Korean cuisine. A real Korean food expert will have to tell you how Sami Grill compares.

The Prague Post critic brought one for a meal there, and the review had a more positive perspective on the place.

We were on our own. I can relate our experience as Korean food novices.

Sami Grill wasn't bad, but nothing special for us.

I shall probably not make that trip again.

Sami Grill
Anny Letenské 5
Prague 2
Tel. (+420) 222 524 666

Cheesy

2009-03-03T08:33:00.005+01:00

"The early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese."

My father was born in Amsterdam, so I have an inbred need for cheese.

Quality cheese. The kind you won't find at Tesco.

Getting the good stuff recently got a little easier for us since a Cheesy shop opened up near Náměstí Míru.V's known about it for a few months and took me the other day.

It's a little hard to find because the place is not well-marked. It's at Jugoslávská 23. This Cheesy is connected to the shop of the same name at Letenské náměstí 6 in Prague 6.

The Anglická location is also a relatively small place, with big wheels along the wall.A lot of it is Dutch. There was also Italian, Swiss, Spanish, and Balkan.Some of it is well-aged. If you are interested, the shop assistant might offer you a sample.

There were display cases full of cheeses blended with herbs and spices.We tried a cilantro-flavored cheese that was quite good. There was also a very green pesto cheese that V liked and I did not.

There were a number of goat cheeses. They even have goat and sheep yogurt.Cheesy was selling a variety of Trappist beers, but be warned - it wasn't cheap. Some .375 liter bottles were around 90 CZK. There were a few in larger bottles that are 150-230 CZK.They also had fruit flavored beer. We bought a bottle of cherry for a friend who likes it.

They also have a French wines from Gérard Depardieu and Pierre Richard.Anyway, I just thought I'd share the find with the cheese lovers out there who didn't yet know about the addition to the neighborhood.

I thought about finishing with some kind of contrived joke about the all second mice out there who should check it out.

But in the end, I decided against it.

I hate that kind of cheese.

Cheesy
Jugoslávská 23
Prague 2
Mon-Fri 0900-2000
Sat 1000-1500
Closed Sunday

Bukowski's Bar

2009-02-28T09:59:00.016+01:00

"I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there." Charles Bukowski

I was supposed to meet G-Man for a drink. He texted me that some of his Czech colleagues wanted to go out. And they wanted to hit their favorite cocktail bar.

So, we ended up at Bukowski's in Prague's Žižkov neighborhood.It was pretty empty at 8:00 pm on a Friday. We scored a table near the bar.It's a cozy drinking establishment with some interesting style points: fold-down chairs from a theater, a chandelier and other light fixtures made from bottles, and something a little unusual for a cocktail bar in this town -- carpeting.

There's a bigger main room in front and a small space in the back.That turned into a clubhouse for a couple of groups later in the evening.

For my first drink, I had my usual -- a gin gimlet. A pretty good version with a lime twist.G-Man's colleagues tried it and liked it enough that they were ordering them later in the evening.

Don't ask me what this drink or any other cost. Bukowski's has no website, the tab was written by hand at the end of the evening with drinks counted by hash marks, and I didn't look carefully at the menu. It's safe to assume the cocktails cost less than in the center.

I sampled G-Man's drink, something I'd never heard of before. It was a Jamaica Mule.It is made with rum, lime juice, ginger or ginger beer and sugar or syrup. He liked it. I thought it was tasty and interesting. I'd order it again.

Someone had a Cosmopolitan. A good version.The drink is still as popular as Sex and the City reruns on TV.

There was also some kind of chocolate-flavored martini on the table.I expected it to be completely horrible. That said, it wasn't that bad, perhaps benefiting from low expectations. There was just a very slight hint of chocolate to it. However, it is not something I'd ever order.

G-Man hadn't eaten, was really hungry and needed something to soak up the alcohol. However, Bukowski's has little food to speak of. Just some spicy nacho chips from a bag. We had three rounds of those.

By 9:30 pm, the place was really getting packed. I'd say it was mostly expats in the mid-20s to early 30s range.The cute waitresses still got to our table to take our orders. But the crush caused something of a meltdown behind the bar. Quality declined rapidly.

I ordered a mojito.It was the worst I've had in a long time. It had one positive aspect -- plenty of rum. Otherwise, it tasted like alcoholic ice water with a hint of lime. The sugar rested at the bottom, mostly unmixed.

Feeling tired, I ordered a Cuba Libre for a sugar and caffeine boost.Yes, it is a boring and simple drink. But I've enjoyed it more at places like Tretter's, where they juice it up with an extra infusion of lime. But Tretter's is often a crowded, yuppie meat-market, and I haven't been there for ages.

Bukowski's Cuba Libre had just a couple of squeezes of tiny lime slices and was little more than rum and slightly flat Coke.

G-Man ordered a Whisky Sour. I don't think I'd heard of anyone ordering this drink for 20 years. I don't know what a good one is supposed to taste like. If you like lots of whiskey and little sour, this is for you.

Someone ordered a Mai Tai.It was quite sweet. Sort of a Hawaiian Punch with rum.

Toward the end of the evening, we ordered a round of Gimlets for our table. We were sitting next to the bar, and the bartender asked me to pick them up, since the waitresses were so busy.

The drinks were in lowball glasses filled with ice cubes. I was confused.

"Are these Gimlets," I asked.

"We ran out of martini glasses so I had to put them in something else," he said.

"Why are they full of ice cubes?"

He just gave me a half-smile, a shrug, and turned to other pressing matters. At this point in the evening, the cocktail's finer points didn't seem all that important, anyway. Explaining the situation and relating the conversation did get a laugh back at the table.

Finally, even the waitresses started to snap under the strain. G-Man ordered a final Jamaica Mule and was very unhappy with it.

"This doesn't taste like a Jamaica Mule," he told the waitress.

"You ordered it!" she shouted above the din.

"Yeah, I know, I just wanted to be sure it was what I ordered."

She told him it was. He figured in the end that she was right, and that it was just poorly made.

Here's the thing about Bukowski's. It really did have a cool, lived-in neighborhood bar style. If you like hanging with expats with some Czechs mixed in, it could be a blast. There was a real house party atmosphere.

But if you go there on a packed out Friday night looking for precision mixologists who will consistently blend you the perfect cocktail, you're in the wrong kind of bar.

Bukowski's
Bořivojova 86
Prague 3-Žižkov
Tel. (+420) 774 530 689

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Mirellie Mediterranean Restaurant

2009-02-24T07:27:00.013+01:00

"Originality is nothing but judicious imitation. The most original writers borrowed one from another." Voltaire

Kogo in Slovanský dům was once one of our favorite restaurants. Eight years ago, we were there just about every week.

We still like it once in a while, but these days, it's just too expensive to be a regular habit. Our current favorite is Osteria da Clara.

Last week, a colleague told me about a new Mediterranean place in Dejvice, called Mirellie.The guy lived in Italy for many years. Now, he lives across the street from the restaurant. He's happy with his new neighbor.

As if this information wasn't enough to entice me, he added that former Kogo people were working there. And it was not expensive. We invited a couple of friends to join us -- Jersey Girl and J.

Mirellie took over the space vacated by Monsoon, an Asian restaurant I always wanted to try but never did. To be honest, the high prices put me off.

The style of Mirellie's two dining areas reminded me a little of Kogo's café in Slovanský dům and their other restaurant, L'Angolo by Kogo.The rooms are filled with browns and beiges, familiar cylindrical lamp shades, and dark wood floors.Some of the furniture was held over from Monsoon -- but it was nice stuff. Very comfortable chairs.A former Kogo waiter knew us as regulars from back in the day. We got a big smile. Or maybe V did. She asked him if there was a connection between the restaurants, but he said no. They were on their own.

We started with a few of beers. They don't have the greatest options.

We had .3 liter glasses of Krušovice Mušketýr (30 CZK).

The stemmed, gold-rimmed glasses were classy, but like Kogo, they don't have larger ones.

The only other beers offered are Heineken (40 CZK) and Claustahler (45 CZK).

We got a basket of focaccia -- actually pizza bread with olive oil, salt, and herbs -- fresh from the oven.It was nice. If you want really heavenly, warm focaccia before a meal, try Osteria's.

For a starter, I had the chef's tuna tartare (165 CZK). For the money, there was a serious mound of fish.It was cut into small cubes, which sat on rucola leaves. The tuna was very nicely marinated in olive oil and lemon, with cracked pepper and capers. The cherry tomatoes were bursting with flavor. Excellent.

V ordered the octopus salad with parsley potatoes (155 CZK). The sliced-up suckers were cold and fresh.The potatoes, mixed with raw onion, rucola, and tomatoes, had a light soaking in vinegar for added flavor. V thought the potatoes could have been cooked a little more.

Jersey Girl went for the rucola and artichoke salad (130 CZK).Pretty basic. Great if you are into artichokes. Not a lot more I can say.

J got a bowl of the fish soup (90 CZK).He called it "hearty" and "well-stocked with fish." There were also a few mussels thrown in. He said he liked it, but thought it could use a little more pepper.

The other soups were only 50-60 CZK. D, an Internet foodie friend wrote me to say that he really liked the Minestrone. He added that he thought they should use a better bread for the bruschetta. But overall, he was pleased with the place.

We decided to share some red wine and ordered a bottle of 2005 Rinaldone dell'Osa, a Morellino de Scansano, which comes from southern Tuscany (460 CZK).

Yes, we had red with seafood.

It was a dry, crisp little wine. Nothing to write home about, but we all enjoyed it.

For a main course, V got her Kogo favorite -- linguine with half a lobster, shrimp, mussels and zucchini (245 CZK).She liked it just as much as the Kogo version. The biggest difference? Kogo's costs 490 CZK.

The linguine was quite flavorful. On the other hand, I had a bite of the lobster's claw and thought it was over-cooked -- a problem often found in Kogo's lobster. V assured me the tail, which she did not share, was much better.

I did something similar to V -- ordering my Kogo favorite -- risotto ai frutti di mare (185 CZK).It was a big, filling portion. It looked very similar to the one from across town. But I have to say Kogo's (295 CZK) is usually much better.

Mirellie's didn't have the right, chewy consistency of proper risotto. Unfortunately, the bands of calamari were too chewy, and the shrimp were on the tough side. Overcooked.

The mussel shells were a reasonable size, but the meat within was microscopic. I wished for more fresh parsely. In summary, I'll try something else next time.

Jersey Girl had a Margherita pizza (99 CZK).She liked it, but said a recent trip to Naples lowered her opinion of every other pizza on the planet. She was dreaming of the thinner, crispier, more ethereal crusts.

I had a slice toward the end of the meal. For me, sauce is a key factor in pizza appreciation, and this one was good. And there was lots of it. Well-seasoned, if a bit salty.

Unfortunately, after sitting a while on the table, the slice had lost all crispness. JG assured me it was much better right after it arrived fresh from the oven.

J ordered the tagliatelle alla matriciana (145 CZK). He enjoyed it but was surprised by its spicy kick.The menu does say it has chili peppers. According to my research, black or chili pepper is not part of the classic recipe, but can be added according to personal taste.

We were all too full for dessert. The meal ended coffee and then complimentary glasses of limoncello came to our table.

A sweet enough finish.

Service was impeccable throughout. Very friendly. Very efficient.

It may well have been because the waiter knew us. It did feel like seeing an old friend. So, I can't say if others will have the same experience, service-wise.

The meal wasn't perfect, but on the value for money side, it's hard to beat.

J even said he's going to replace Aromi with Mirellie as his favorite Italian dining spot.

That's quite an endorsement, considering he lives walking distance to Aromi.

We'll be back, as well. V is in Prague 6 quite often, and it would be a great place to stop for lunch.

Yes, Mirellie appears to judiciously borrow quite a lot from Kogo in terms of modern style, and Mediterranean cooking. But Mirellie's prices are more like Kogo's circa 2001.

Imitating all that in 2009 makes this restaurant something of an original.

Mirellie Mediterranean Restaurant
V.P. Čkalova 14
Prague 6 - Dejvice
Tel. +420 222 959 999

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