Clearly Helena

Tunisian Crochet - Terminlogy (basic)

2026-04-14T13:43:00.003+10:00

Because I only do Tunisian crochet non-regularly, I tend to forget some of the terminology and abbreviations.

This page serves more as a reminder for me and others like me. It is not a full fledged tutorial.

Tunisian Abbreviations

fwPass - forward pass
rtnPass - return pass
Trs * - Tunisian reverse stitch (Insert hook in back vertical bar, yo, pull up a loop.) --{Used in Tunisian Waffle Stitch}
NB. DOEST NOT CURL ✅
tss - Tunisian Simple Stitch
fpdc - Front Post Double Crochet
XLfpdc * - Extra Long Front Post dc (yarn over, insert hook under the front and back vertical bars of the stitch 3 rows down, yarn over, pull up a loop, chain 1, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook)
bpdc - Back Post dc
Lts - Last Tunisian Stitch
Tslst * - Tunisian Slip Stitch (Bring up a loop in the back vertical bar, pull through loop on hook as for slip stitch)
xx
xx
xx
xx
xx

Interlocking Crochet - Basics

2025-12-18T13:10:00.003+11:00

What is Interlocking Crochet?

"Interlocking crochet is a colorwork technique where two separate mesh layers are worked alternately and interlocked to create a single, reversible fabric. It involves working with two different colors, one per layer, without carrying or mixing yarns, resulting in a fabric that appears to weave the colors together. This technique creates different patterns on each side of the fabric, often a mirrored image. "

(Src: Google Search Result)

Sample of Interlocking Crochet with dcf 1:1

In other words, it is like having 2 pieces of crocheted fabric, interwoven through each other, but not into each other.
You will be working with 2 colours at a time.
Each colour is ONLY worked into its own same colour.
The crochet fabric of each colour is worked in some form of filet crochet which forms open grid-like fabric. Filet crochet is like creating "windows" in the fabric.
It is through these "windows" that you will be working through.

The best way to understand the logic and idea of this technique is by walking through some Interlocking Crochet basics.

Note: while people tend to have their own terminology and way of doing things, I am showing you mine so that ..

you can more easily follow and understand my patterns, and
I hope to explain the underlying logic of the technique. I believe that once you get that, it is much easier to explore more complex variations based on the same logic and technique.

So let's start with making a sample using the very basic logic and stitches.

Most tutorials on interlocking crochet will start with 2 rows of dc filet, one in each colour, that are interlocked or interwoven through each other but that are in no other way attached to each other - viz each colour is never worked into the other colour.

I tend to start slightly differently so that both the colours are worked into one bottom most/foundation row. I not only find it easier but it gives a much neater edge/hem to all my designs.

Sample: Most Basic Interlocking Crochet Exercise

To fully get this, please do follow along.

Prelim

Interlocking Crochet makes use of Filet Crochet stitches as its basis as Filet Crochet creates grids or "windows" through which the interlocking of colours are done.

Filet Crochet comprises of any number of a particular stitch (usually a dc), interspaced with a number of chains. And this is repeated in some fashion across the row.

Here, at its very simplest, we will work with dcf 1:1 (double crochet filet with a repeat of 1 dc, 1 ch).

As you can see, the dcf 1:1 is comprised of a repeat {1ch, 1dc}. Because I will only be using this dc-ch combination in our exercise, for simplicity I shall just refer to this as dcf.

In Interlocking Crochet, we work with 2 colours to form a Row. Hence I tend to add an "a" or a "b" suffix to my row counts. The "a" suffix means to work in one colour; and "b" suffix means to work in the other colour.

Hence Row 1 in colour #1 will be denoted as R1a: and
Row 1 in colour #2 will be denoted as R1b: etc

Interlocking Crochet - Sample Exercise (video)

For a flat piece, we will need an odd number of stitches.

Wire Straightener

2025-10-29T14:38:00.000+11:00

I bought this wire straightener gadget some time ago and was pleasantly surprised how well they worked.

This is but one of the various gadgets to straighten wire. It is not very expensive (I paid less then AUD10 for it).

(Img src: Temu)

They seem to be offered in either stainless steel or plastic.

How to use Wire Straightener gadget

(Img src: Temu)

Just be aware that you are also work-hardening the wire, even with this gadget.

Crescent Moon Shawl "Night Lights" (CH0548)

2025-10-23T14:42:00.000+11:00

Delight and fascination with the Crescent shaped shawls continues for me. This time a joyously colourful combination of #Patons Sierra 8ply with Funky Fluffy trimming and embedded night-black, and silver sequins crocheted in with Inset DC Filet crochet.

While I don't go out partying after dark (anymore), I am definitely keeping this one because one never knows when one gets an opportunity to still sparkle after the sun sets and yet be warm & cozy.

Crescent Moon Shawl "Night Lights" (CH0548)

Fuller details, workings, patterns, and even how-to images can be found in the (similar) Crescent Moon shawl CH0545.

Here, I will just note down the basics and offer some photos.

FEATURES	TECHNICAL FEATURES
natural and organic drape around neck and shoulders a delight to wear comfortable and stays on much better than normal, rectangular scarves or shawls	easy to make accomodates different yarns (be it weight/texture/colours) works up very quickly

================================= IMG GALLERY =================================

================================= MATERIALS =================================

Materials & Specifications

Approx. Size:	Free Size
🧶 Yarn:	• main: Patons Sierra 8 ply (Nevada) (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool> • inset/contrast yarn: Vera Moda, Ballroom - Silver; Midnight Black(54% Sequins, 46% Acrylic) • Sirdar, Funky Fur Magic (100% Polyester)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	mainly "inset dc filet crochet"
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Beginner - Intermediate (only because I don’t explain how-to do common crochet stitches, sewing up, weaving in, etc. I provide mini videos/tuts where I can but you will be expected to know how to do most of the common stitches.)
🪝 Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	4mm
🪝 Hooks Used:	5mm (Note: the recommeded hook size for the 8ply Sierra is 4mm. However I used the 5mm as the work needed more ease from using an additional inset yarn.)
Number of Colours:	2 or more
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	200 - 270 g (depending on yarn used)
Work Time (approx.; excl. prep & graphing):	1-2 days
Care:	Recommended gentle machine or hand wash. Squeeze (do not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat in shade. Dry cleanable.

GAUGE (approx.)	[14 sts x 8 rows] ≡ 10x10 cm square in "inset dc filet crochet"

Status: n/a N0 ℋunsold, 2eby i think

===================== WHERE TO BUY PATTERN =====================

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

There is no pattern for this specific shawl. However a similar Crescent Moon Shawl (CH0545) pattern is available at my Ravelry store.

Or you can read the blog post on CH0545.

㊙

Crescent Moon Shawl in Sierra Glacier Lake (CH0547)

2025-10-22T15:50:00.003+11:00

The crescent moon shape has become one of my favourite shaping for shawls because of how they seem to organically drape so beautifully around the neck and shoulders. This is yet another example.

Crescent Moon Shawl in Sierra, Glacier Lake (CH0547)

Fuller details, workings, patterns, and even how-to images can be found in the (similar) Crescent Moon shawl CH0545.

Here, I will just note down the basics and offer some photos.

FEATURES	TECHNICAL FEATURES
natural and organic drape around neck and shoulders a delight to wear comfortable and stays on much better than normal, rectangular scarves or shawls	easy to make accomodates different yarns (be it weight/texture/colours) works up very quickly

================================= IMG GALLERY =================================

================================= MATERIALS =================================

Materials & Specifications

Approx. Size:	Free Size
🧶 Yarn:	• main: Patons Sierra 8 ply (Glacier Lake) (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool> • inset/contrast yarn: Vera Moda, Ballroom (54% Sequins, 46% Acrylic)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	mainly "inset dc filet crochet"
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Beginner - Intermediate (only because I don’t explain how-to do common crochet stitches, sewing up, weaving in, etc. I provide mini videos/tuts where I can but you will be expected to know how to do most of the common stitches.)
🪝 Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	4mm
🪝 Hooks Used:	5mm (Note: the recommeded hook size for the 8ply Sierra is 4mm. However I used the 5mm as the work needed more ease from using an additional inset yarn.)
Number of Colours:	2 or more
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	200 - 270 g (depending on yarn used)
Work Time (approx.; excl. prep & graphing):	1-2 days
Care:	Recommended gentle machine or hand wash. Squeeze (do not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat in shade. Dry cleanable.

GAUGE (approx.)	[14 sts x 8 rows] ≡ 10x10 cm square in "inset dc filet crochet"

Status: n/a N0 ℋunsold, 2eby i think

===================== WHERE TO BUY PATTERN =====================

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

There is no pattern for this specific shawl. However a similar Crescent Moon Shawl (CH0545) pattern is available at my Ravelry store.

Or you can read the blog post on CH0545.

㊙

CH0546 Crescent Moon Shawl with Dangly Pearls

2025-10-22T13:43:00.000+11:00

This Crescent Moon Shawl was made in early 2018; I think around the time when I first came across this lovely shawl shaping. It is so fun to make and so versatile and delicious to wear that I have made quite a few over the years. With many a long year in-between I must admit.

Crescent Moon Shawl CH0546

This was gifted to a friend (JK) and I hope she liked. Never heard back. It was made with really lovely, expensive yarns. And I made each of the many pearl dangles by hand ... and crocheted them directly into the fringed trimming.

FEATURES	TECHNICAL FEATURES
luxurious feeling drapes extremely well very versatile	fun and easy to make lends itself to many styles

================================= IMG GALLERY =================================

================================= MATERIALS =================================

Materials & Specifications

Approx. Size:	Free Size
🧶 Yarn:	• Malabrigo 'Silky Merino' (51% Silk, 49% Merino) • Lang yarns, 'Asia' (70% Silk, 30% Yak)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	--
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Beginner to Intermediate
🪝 Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	?
🪝 Hooks Used:	3mm
Care:	Recommended cold/warm gentle hand wash. Squeeze (do not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat.

Status: n/a ℋ(Jenny Kwon)

===================== WHERE TO BUY PATTERN =====================

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

There is no pattern for this specific shawl. However a similar Crescent Moon Shawl (CH0545) pattern is available at my Ravelry store.

Or you can read the blog post on CH0545.

㊙

Behind the Scenes..

Some of the delicious, luxurious yarns used. Very soft and very warm.

Some of the crochet diagrams I based my work on. (from Pinterest)

Just chained the requisite number of stitches to start. This is definitely before I started using my now preferred MM Cast-on method to begin almost all my crochet work.

Each of fresh water pearls were individually wire-wrapped and then crocheted in with the triangular trimming.

Close up oh the dangles, crocheted into the trimming.

The crescent moon shaped shawl.

Crescent Moon Shawl CH0545 📒

2025-10-19T15:28:00.003+11:00

I have been fascinated with crocheting the "crescent shawls" which drape very well due to their unique crescent shaping. I made a couple some many years ago but I really couldn't remember how I did it! (ah! Just found it again! - CH0494!! 🤭) This winter just gone, I finally used it and I really loved the drape and shape of it. So as a result, I wanted to redo the crescent type shawls and this time, I was determined to document and write up the pattern so that it can be easily accessed in the future.

It is very easy to make! And fun! I used a special stitch for this shawl which I call "inset dc filet crochet". I don't know if it has a 'real' name.

Crescent Moon Shawl (CH0545)

In truth, once you grasp the basic shape of these crescent shawls, you can reproduce it with any combination of stitches and colours you like. Actually this version is but one of the many ways to produce the delectable, drapable crescent shaping. It is it's shaping that creates a fabric form and structure that seems to want to curve, organically & naturally, around the neck and shoulders.

Below is a very rough rendition of how this shape is created.

FEATURES	TECHNICAL FEATURES
natural and organic drape around neck and shoulders a delight to wear comfortable and stays on much better than normal, rectangular scarves or shawls	easy to make accomodates different yarns (be it weight/texture/colours) works up very quickly

================================= IMG GALLERY =================================

================================= MATERIALS =================================

Materials & Specifications

Approx. Size:	Free Size
🧶 Yarn:	• main: Patons Sierra 8 ply (Nevada) (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool> • inset/contrast yarn: fine & silky rayon-viscose (Rich Cerise)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	mainly "inset dc filet crochet"
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Beginner - Intermediate (only because I don’t explain how-to do common crochet stitches, sewing up, weaving in, etc. I provide mini videos/tuts where I can but you will be expected to know how to do most of the common stitches.)
🪝 Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	4mm
🪝 Hooks Used:	5mm (Note: the recommeded hook size for the 8ply Sierra is 4mm. However I used the 5mm as the work needed more ease from using an additional inset yarn.)
Number of Colours:	2 or more
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	200 - 270 g (depending on yarn used)
Work Time (approx.; excl. prep & graphing):	1-2 days
Care:	Recommended gentle machine or hand wash. Squeeze (do not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat in shade. Dry cleanable.

GAUGE (approx.)	[14 sts x 8 rows] ≡ 10x10 cm square in "inset dc filet crochet"

Status: n/a N0 ℋunsold, 2eby i think

===================== WHERE TO BUY PATTERN =====================

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

• CH0545 Crescent Moon Shawl – PDF pattern on Ravelry

㊙

Inset dc Filet Crochet

2025-10-02T11:50:00.001+10:00

"Inset dc filet crochet" is my name for the stitch. I don't know if it has a 'real', established name. I first leart this stitch in a fully Japanese crochet book without a word of English. It's a lovely and versatile stitch but to me, nameless.

'inset dc filet crochet' requires an odd number of stitches

It makes use of 2 yarns - one for the "inset" part and the main working yarn is exactly like double crochet filet crochet -- hence my name "inset dc filet crochet".

Here is my shortie, quickie video tut on how to work the "inset dc filet crochet" stitch.

Cropped Bomber Jacket (CH0543) 📒

2025-09-25T15:20:00.007+10:00

A warm, chunky funky, colourful, thick, cropped bomber jacket made in 10ply Aran yarn. Endless possibilities to change colours around when making your own. Large secure wooden painted buttons with inside pocket to keep hands fiddle-free and snuggly.

Cropped Bomber Jacket (CH0543)

This works up quick and easy... and it's a lot of fun to make. And wear!!! 😁

FEATURES	TECHNICAL FEATURES
thick and warm chunky & funky 2 hand-warming, inside pockets	quick to work up open to one or many colours thick yarn (10ply/Aran)

================================= IMG GALLERY =================================

================================= MATERIALS =================================

Materials & Specifications

Approx. Size:	Sm - Large (Note: approximately (Aust) Size 8-14) for a loose to semi-loose fit (refer to diagram for more specific measurements)
Yarn:	• any 10ply / Aran (e.g. 4Seasons SpotSaver) • any 8ply / DK (for inside pockets) I used: • 4 Seasons, Spot Saver, 10ply/Aran (100% Acrylic) and • Stylecraft, Special DK (100% Acrylic)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	Basic Crochet and Tunisian Crochet, fss (fat slip stitch), Romanian Cord, sc blo, sc flo, twisted sc, modified TSS (Tunisian Simple stitch) (the specific, customised stitches like fss, Romanian Cord, modified TSS ... links to short vido tutorials are included in the paid pattern.
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Intermediate (only because I don’t explain how-to do common crochet stitches, sewing up, weaving in, etc. I provide mini videos/tuts where I can but you will be expected to know how to do most of the common stitches.)
Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	5mm
Hooks Used:	5mm, 4mm (for edging, etc.), 4mm Tunisian crochet hook
Number of Colours:	I used 5 but you can use just 1 to any number you like!
Final Size:
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	770g
Care:	Gentle, warm machine wash. Squeeze (not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat.

GAUGE (approx.)	[12.4 stitches x 13.9 rows] = [10x10 cm square]

Status: n/a RLO ℋ

===================== WHERE TO BUY PATTERN =====================

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

• (CH0543) Cropped Bomber Jacket – PDF pattern on Ravelry

㊙️

lessons

Lessons Learnt

For a non-cropped version, I might lengthened the length to 54cm (rather than 50cm) ==> start with apprx 67sts (cf. 62sts)

Sierra Spring Top (CH0541) 📝

2025-09-09T13:04:00.000+10:00

Recently I fell into a crazy love-fest for Sierra balls! viz. Paton's Sierra 8ply (and just so you know, Chunkys too 😍). And mixed with the emotions of desiring to do some Tunisian crochet, some Mosaic Crochet, and dealing with the general rise in temperatures as our winter moves into spring ... this is how and why "Sierra Spring Top" came into being.

Sierra Spring Top (CH0541)

FEATURES

TECHNICAL FEATURES

short cropped, short sleeved top
comfy wear for cooler days

Tunisian Crochet "Easy Rib"
TSS (Tunisian Simple Stitch) in 3 colours (yoke)
a bit of Mosaic Crochet
a play with my Sierra balls!
Level: easy

There isn't a pattern for this as I was as usual, winging it. The photos below may be somewhat helpful though. I must say there was quite a bit of frogging ... but then again, all par for the course. 🙂

================================= IMG GALLERY =================================

================================= MATERIALS =================================

Materials & Specifications (See "Lessons Learnt" below for future modifications)

Approx. Size:	Sm (AU size 8 / UK 8 / US 4/ EU 34)
Yarn:	Any DK/8 ply (• Patons Sierra "Nevada"; • Stylecraft 8 ply; • King Cole, Drifter, For Baby; •Dazzle, Heirloom, 8ply)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	• Tunisian crochet 'Easy Rib (YouTube by "Knitting My Hobby")' - Mul.of 2 (for in the round) • TSS (Tunisian Simple St) - using 3 colours • Mosaic Crochet
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Intermediate ~ familiar with basic Tunisian crochet, Mosaic Crochet, reading Mosaic Crochet charts
Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	4mm
Hooks Used:	• Tunisian Crochet hook: 5mm • Crochet Hook: 4mm
Number of Colours:	3 (A,B,C)
Graph sizes (in squares):	(please refer to graphs below)
Final Size:	as above
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	- -
Care:	Gentle machine wash. Squeeze (not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat.

GAUGE (approx.)	[10×10 sq] = [-- cm ]

Status: n/a ℋ(not sure. Auc?)

How-To Notes and Steps

Started with this rough draft.

This is the sequence I worked.
• 1) Tunsian 'Easy Rib'. Requires mul of 2 sts.
(see YT video by Knitting My Hobby).
• 2) pick up and work Mosaic Crochet
• 3) yoke in TSS (* because the Tunisian 'Easy Rib' for the main body is worked in round), using 3 yarns (so no cutting and messing tails after every row)
• 4) Sleeves, worked separately. Tunisian 'Easy Rib', same as main body. Worked in round.
• 5) Mosaic Crochet - sleeves band
• Collar: pick up. Worked in round in Tunisian 'Easy Rib'
• join sleeves. Neaten

Colour combos I considered for the main body.

Note: The Tunisian Easy Rib does not have to worked only in the round; it can also be generally worked in the flat. But it is definitely only in the round that I can work continuously (without the hassle of cutting and dealing with messy tails) and still get the ribbed effect I was going for.
I used the double ended Tunisian hook/cable so that the fwd pass uses one colour; and the return pass uses another. However that was not possible to work the "yoke" in this stitch for the same effect, without having to endure the endless cuts & tails.

⓵ Body (tube)

R0/A: MM Caston 140 sts. Join to start.
R1 a+b: normal tunisian foundation (A: fwd pass; B: rtn pass)
R2, etc,: in Tunisian 'Easy Rib'... up to 20 or 22 cm

Put the work on hold; ensuring you don't drop any stitches.

Optional: at this stage, one can continue straight to the ⓷ yoke before doing the hem-border.

⓶ Hem Border

Using this graph for the Mosaic Crochet on the Hem

(This was from another of my designs where it was used for the collar.)

To make the Hem Border (in Mosaic Crochet), with 4mm hook, pick up and crochet from the body's foundation row.

{1sc blo, 1 fpdc (around "raised v-rib")}*

To finish off the edging of the Hem Border, work a final round of Twisted SC .

yoke

⓷ Yoke

This area is worked flat (not in the round): TSS (Tunisian Simple Stitch) using 3 colours.
This consecutive 3-colours means that I don't have messy cut ends and tails to deal it.
And it also creates an interesting look for the fabric.

The 3 colours used for the yoke:
• this King Cole
• a pale pink yarn (bamboo or acrylic)
• the Sierra "Nevada"

R'ber: "a" and "b" suffix to Row notation indicated fwd pass, and rtn pass respectively in my Tunisian crochet

R25 a&b: 17 TSS
R26a (fwd pass): 17 TSS;
36 stitches (on stitch holder);
other shoulder: 17 TSS

Then you will be working each should separately.
R26b (rtn pass): 17 TSS (rtn) on each shoulder

R14a: 17 TSS, dec (2 sts tog), 2TSS, 28 slst, 2TSS, dec, 17TSS. =>70 sts

Right Shoulder
R14b: 20 (rtn pass)
R15a: 2TSS, dec, 16TSS
R16a: 2TSS, dec, 15TSS
R16b: 18 (rtn pass)
R17a: 2TSS, dec, 14TSS
R17b: 17 (rtn pass); slst + castoff
R18-24: TSS

Showing front and pieces done. They need to be joined before we can proceed with collar band.

⓸ (SHORT) SLEEVES

• worked in the round. 66 sts / 44cm.
• Tunisian 'Easy Rib'
• cols: Sierry "Nevada", + Pale Pink

4mm Hook, MM caston 66 sts.
R0: std. Tunisian foundation set up (fwd + rtn pass)
R1-17: Tunisian 'Easy Rib' in the round
(apprx. 12-14cm)

Cut the contrast col (pale pink).
66 slst in MC (main col)

⓹ Sleeve Border in Mosaic Crochet

• cols: Sierra "Nevada", + Dazzle Heirloom, Dk Red

Foundation Row to start the Mosaic Crochet for the Sleeve Border.

In MC (main col. - Sierra): {1scblo, 1 fpdc}*
(fpdc around the "v" rib of the sleeve)

Then work the Mosaic Crochet as per graph.

Finish Sleeve Edging with
• round of sc blo
• round of twisted sc

Both sleeves done.

Joining Pieces, Collar Band, and Finishing Garment

Neaten/weave in all loose ends/tails.
Shoulder Seams: flat sl st to join shoulder seams.

Neckline
Top chain all round neckline as base for start of banded neckline.

Use Tunisian hook. Pick up stitches around neckline.
Note: may have to decrease, esp. at 'corners' to ensure a more fitting collar band that will sit flat.

Tunisian 'Easy Rib' for banded collar. (apprx. 4cm)

Then Tunisian cast off with slst.

For a more professional edging, work a round of (non-Tunisian) {1scblo, 1fpdc}*

Then a round of slst (relaxed hand) to finish off the collar band.

Next, we will be ready to attach sleeves to body.

Sew Sleeves to Body

Here I have sewn with the invisible join/seam.

Showing Sleeves neatly sewn to body.

Close-ups

lessons

Lessons Learnt

I didn't quite like the fit of this top. Not for me anyway. I think it would suit a AU size 8 very well. (What I once used to be. Sigh! 🥲)

So if I ever made this again, this are the measurements I will go for ...see the major modification measurements in pink.

CH0541 - maybe a larger & longer size?

Brioche Crochet Beanie (CH0540) 📒

2025-09-06T18:00:00.007+10:00

After clarifying for myself as to the difference between Brioche Crochet vs Short Row Crochet, I had the urge to work on some simple brioche crochet stitches. So this here are the results of three beanies, using different yarns, and colours.

FEATURES

TECHNICAL FEATURES

thick, stretchy, & cushy
fully reversible
can be worn with or without a fold-over brim

simple form of Brioche Crochet
any DK/8ply yarns
minimum of 2 colours

rough draft for Sm-Med sizing

So far, I have made three versions:
• two in Medium to Large;
• one in Large.

All using DK/8ply yarns. Each using different brands of yarn.

Let's look at some photos of beanies #1-3.

Brioche Crochet Beanie 1

Brioche Crochet Beanie 1 (CH0540) Sz: Sm-Med

Status: 135g n/a ℋ gifted to Pete, Aug 2025

More Details on Beanie 1

I will just have a bit more to say about this one as this was the first cab off the rank. And I like it most especially.

I trialled this with oddments and scraps of leftover yarns. The little balls are mostly acrylics (Stylecraft, Dazzle, Paintbox, etc.)

This multi-hued, variegated yarn however is 100% wool. Which is wonderful for warmth and it does have rich, warm colours. However, I must remember to add a "Hand wash only" label to this beanie. I don't know where though as it is reversible!!!

My copper curved metal label sits very nicely on the beanie. It is always a pleasure when it sits well!

I just love the texture, feel, and look of this Brioche Crochet fabric.

It is however done in the round. I must have more experiments so that I can do this on the flat as well.

I am actually a bit more enamoured with the look on the other side.

I will have to design something in future using this look!

Actually, the lines running vertical is what I like best.

More future experiements!!!

Note to Self: Brioche Crochet is very much like interlocking crochet. They pretty much start the same way. The biggest difference is that with Brioche Crochet, we are making use of Front Post dc rather than plain dc.

This easy method of clinching the top works. But I must admit I am not enamoured with it.

More future experiments!!!

Materials & Specifications (These apply to all three beanies.)

Approx. Size:	Small to Medium: fits head circumference of 53-57cm (My pattern: 78 stitches) Large: fits head circumference of 57-62cm (My pattern: 84 stitches) Note: Number of stitches needed to get the required lengths/circumferences will depend on the crocheter's tension, yarn used.
Yarn:	any DK / 8ply yarn
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	Brioche Crochet
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Intermediate to Advanced ... Only because I provide a listed pattern; not tutorial (though there are helpful links to some techniques). I assume that person making this will know basic, common crochet stitches and/or know how to look them up.
Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	4mm
Hooks Used:	4mm
Number of Colours:	2 (or more)
Graph sizes (in squares):	(n/a)
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	120-160g (depending on size made and yarns used)
Care:	Refer to yarn's care instructions

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

• Brioche Crochet Beanie (CH0540) – PDF pattern, graph pattern on Ravelry

㊙️

Brioche Crochet Beanie 2

Brioche Crochet Beanie-2 (CH0540) Sz: Sm-Med

Status: ℋ eby?

This should be very warm as it is made from Bendigo Woolen Mill's 100% wool. And the added bonus is that it is machine washable so no fear of felting and shrinkage! 😁

Brioche Crochet Beanie 3

Brioche Crochet Beanie 3 (CH0540) Sz: Lge

Status: ℋ CL? EBY?

Summary Steps

These are highly truncated steps. They are mainly a reminder, (mostly so I don't need to resort to the full pdf ㊙️), of the core steps.

After foundation row (usually MM Cast-on), 1 round of filet crochet.

(Very much like the start of my Interlocking Crochet).

Then with second col, another round of filet crochet, working dc into ch-spaces of prev. row

Thereafter, working in found of filet crochet with FPDCs.

• Always leave inactive yart at Front of work.
• Always end each round by starting a standing FPDC in readiness ...

Useful Links

CH YT = ClearlyHelena YouTube

CH YT: MM Cast-on into Round
CH YT: How to - Stacked dc, & Standing dc
CH YT: CH0540 Brioche Crochet Beanie: Ending and Starting FPDC rounds
CH YT: CH0540 Brioche Crochet Beanie. Another how-to End and Start FPDC rounds

Stacked dc and Standing dc

2025-08-31T16:20:00.001+10:00

How to start a row with dc (double crochet)? Traditionally it was with the 'turning chains' - viz. 3 chain stitches to represent one starting dc.

These days, whether working in rows or in the rounds, my preferred method of starting a dc row (or even a treble, etc.) is with either:
• a stacked dc, or
• a standing dc

Mnemonics Tip
• stacked dc - because it is like 2 sc stacked on top of each other
• standing dc - becasue we use a long loop to help make the starting dc stitch stand up.

A quick, rough video to show you how to start a row/round using a stacked dc, and a standing dc.

I am so sorry my video is a bit non-professional. Just trying to come to grips with how to even make vid-tutorials. I am sorry that some of the times, what I am showing is not even in the frame. But I am leaving the video as is because I think the main essential parts are still covered. And if I keep fiddling, I will never get round to all the many other things I need to do.

Stacked dc

Standing dc

How to Join the MM Caston into a Round

2025-08-31T14:10:00.000+10:00

My preferred crochet cast on, or starting foundation row is an MM Caston. And while it is superior in feel and looks to the standard chain-foundation, when it comes to joining the end and start stitches to form a round, it can be just a tat tricky.

But there will be lots of occasions when you will want to use the MM Caston and you will want to work in the round. So how do we joing the MM Caston into a Round in the neatest way possible?

How to Join a MM Cast-on into a Round

I have here a short tutorial to show how I do it. I am sure there are many other ways out there and over time, I may have improvements on this method. But as of now, this is how I join the MM Caston, end to start stitch, to be able to work in rounds (rather than rows).

I apologize for the amateurish quality of my video. I am still fumbling around to learn to do this better. So many people have requested videos of one kind or another, so I thought I better try even if it is not perfect.

Sometimes the work is out of the frame. That is because I have to crochet looking via a camera screen and sometimes, instinct takes over and I look at the actual work itself while crocheting and then whammo, it is not properly centered on screen.

And lastly, my left hand can look a bit disabled. That is because some of the hand muscles have antrophied. Sad but grateful they still work!!!

Just for illustrative purposes, the following show what the work looks like when ...

.. the MM Cast-on is first joined into a round.

.. what the work looks like with one row of sc, after joining the MM Cast-on into a round

The next questions are:
• how to end off a round neatly?
• how to begin the next round neatly?

What is Short Row Crochet? vs Brioche Crochet

2025-08-29T16:00:00.012+10:00

What is brioche crochet? I don't really know.

To me, there seems to be 2 distinct techniques.

According to some (like Lilla Bjorn Crochet, and Catherine Crochets from YouTube) - their Brioche Crochet is a combination of Interlocking (or InterMesh) Crochet combined with predominantly, FPDC (front post dc) stitches to form raised lines used to create patterns/images that resembles Brioche Knitting.

Then there is the other valid group for which Brioche Crochet (which is also commonly called, "Short Row crochet") which relies predominantly on short rows of sc or slipsticthes to from pattern/images that resembles Brioche Knitting.

The biggest similarity between the two distinct techniques is that the end result is something that closely resembles Brioche Knitting

So to me, the way the term "Brioche Crochet" is used refers more to the LOOK of the resultant work rather than a definitive indication of the how-to technique used.

Which will make, using the term "Brioche Crochet" a bit problematic when trying to indicate a crochet method or technique.

But nevermind, we shall shoulder on!

How will I use the term "Brioche Crochet"?

For purposes of clarity here on my site (and not as a matter of dispute with any esteemed crocheters in this field),

I will use "Brioche Crochet" term to mean that technique that uses the methodolgy of Interlocking Crochet combined predominantly with FPDC.

As seen in Lilla Bjorn's "Brioche crochet: masterclass" and also in Catherie Crochets YT "Brioche Crochet Tutorial".

Short Row Crochet

As for the other technique that also produces a Brioche Knitted look, I will just use the term, "Short Row Crochet" to better differeciate the two disparate techniqes. And also because this name better describes the Technique - which is always helpful to a crafter.

What is the "Hitch" or "H" in Short Row Crochet?

I use the term, "Hitch" or "H" in my notes and patterns (dealing with Short Row Crochet). However, it is not a universal crochet term. When I was first learning how to Short Row Crochet, one of the tutorial videos must have introduced that term and I have stuck with it ever since. You will find that other crocheters call it something else, if they call it anything at all.

But as you will likely come across this "Hitch" term here and/or in my patterns, and also because you may find it useful anyway, below is a short explantory tutorial to clariy what it is, and how it is dealt with.

How to Use the Hex Anvil - UPDATED!

2025-07-31T13:34:00.002+10:00

Hex Anvil

When I first looked into how to use the Hex Anvil (sometime in 2015), there was a marvelous pictorial tutorial by FusionBeads, "Basic Riveting with Anvil" [discontinued]. However (as I noted in my earlier post, "How to Use the Hex Anvil", the link to that great tutorial was no longer available. Because FusionBeads was no longer available.

But through the wonders and magic of WayBackMachine (https://archive.org/web/), I found that FusionBeads tutorial again. In this post, I am just going to capture the images and steps as laid out, once upon a time, by the wonderful FusionBeads.com

So all credit for this useful info goes to FusionBeads, wherever they are now.

Basic Riveting using the Hex Anvil
(a historial pictorial tutorial by FusionBeads.com ... I think was from 2012)

Step 1
Select your stamping blanks or sheet metal.

Step 2
Position the blanks in a design you like. With the Sharpie, mark where you want the rivet to be on the top blank.

Step 3
Use a Pro Polish Pad to avoid marring the metal. Place the polishing pad under the metal. The pad will cushion the punch while allowing you to clearly see the mark where the hole is intended. Position the lower jaw of the pliers (the side with the hole) over the mark and make the punch.

Step 4
Layout the blanks again and with a Sharpie, mark the placement for the hole in the botttom blank using the hole you just made in step 3.

Step 5
Use a Pro Polish Pad to avoid marring the metal. Place the polishing pad under the metal. The pad will cushion the punch while allowing you to clearly see the mark where the hole is intended. Position the lower jaw of the pliers (the side with the hole) over the mark and make the punch.

Step 6
You now have holes in both of the blanks.

Step 7
To begin making your rivet place the hexagonal anvil on the bench block. You will use the anvil to make one end of the rivet.

Step 8
Flush cut one

Step 9
Insert the wire into a hole that it fits snugly into on the hexagonal anvil. Flush cut the other end of the wire leaving about 1/8"-1/16" above the anvil.

Step 10
The wire that is sticking up above the anvil is what will become your rivet head.

Step 11
Using the chisel-shaped end of your riveting hammer lightly tapping across the rivet.

Step 12
Turn the anvil 90 degrees and continue lightly tapping across the rivet. You will start to see a small head forming on the rivet.

Step 13
Turn the anvil 90 degrees and continue lightly tapping across the rivet. Repeat steps 11-13 several times until you have a nice mushroom head formed.

Step 14
Once your rivet has mushroomed out nicely, use the flat side of the riveting hammer to make a few final strikes to the rivet. This will flatten out the rivet head and give it a nice smooth surface.

Step 15
Pull out the wire rivet from the anvil. If the rivet is difficult to pull out, use another piece of wire to push it out from the bottom.

Step 16
Insert your cut wire or rivet into both of the pieces to be riveted together. Flush cut the wire or rivet leaving about 1/8"-1/16".

Step 17
Stack all of the pieces to be riveted on the bench block. Use the chisel-shaped end of your riveting hammer to lightly tap across the rivet.

Step 18
Turn your piece 90 degrees and continue lightly tapping across the rivet. You will start to see a small head forming on the rivet.

Step 19
Turn your piece 90 degrees and continue lightly tapping across the rivet.

Step 20
Turn your piece 90 degrees and continue lightly tapping across the rivet. Repeat steps 17-20 several times until you have a nice mushroom head formed.

Step 21
Once your rivet has mushroomed out nicely, then use the flat side of the riveting hammer to make a few final strikes to the rivet. This will flatten out the rivet head and give it a nice smooth surface. Take care in hammering as you don't want to mar the metal blanks with the edge of the hammer.

Step 22
Congratulations! You have completed your riveted piece.

Fabric Twine - How-to

2024-11-16T18:20:00.000+11:00

Making fabric twine is a good way to make use of scraps of fabric.

Just a ball for Fabric Twine from random fabric scraps

I often forget how to do something if it is something I don't do often. Maybe you are the same?

And I don't like long videos where the person rambles on for no good reason. So this video is one of the shortest video I have found. The instructions are still very clear and is ideal either for a concise tutorial or for a quick refresher.

Samples of Creations from Fabric Twine

This is just a quick show of some things I have made with fabric twine. I will add more, if and when, and if I remember to do so!!!

One is a woven chair. Was my MIL's that she no longer needed. The other was a camping bed we picked up from the roadside. Another weaving project.

Crochet Stitch - Waistcoat Stitch, How to

2024-01-20T17:13:00.131+11:00

I used to call the Waistcoat Stitch the Knit Single Crochet (ksc) but Knit Single Crochet Stitch is properly known as the Waistcoat Stitch.

Oops! Sorry – I didn’t know that when I thought I “invented” it!!! 😂😂😂

Waistcoat Stitch aka Knit SC Stitch

Note: This stitch is best suited for working in the rounds. Hence it is ideal for tapestry crochet bags and amigurumi projects.

I called this stitch the “ksc stitch” (knit single crochet stitch). AKA vsc because we work the sc into the “v” of the stitch below. I came upon it in experimentations. I call it “Knit single crochet” (or ksc for short) because it looks like a stockinnette knit stitch, doesn’t it?

For me, this is the ideal stitch for use in crochet amigurumi doorstops and for tapestry crochet bags. The Waistcoat stitch produces a very strong fabric (almost like woven canvas) and is so dense that it is prevents weighted amigurumi small stuffing from falling out.

Common Crochet Stitch used in Amigurumi dolls

On asking Google and Pinterest and even from amigurumi patterns, I can see that the most commonly used crochet stitch is the standard sc (single crochet). However I found that no matter how tightly I crocheted, the resultant holes (spaces between stitches) were too large for my liking.

In this first amigurumi project, I was making an amigurumi doorstop. I was using glass beads for the required weight. The beads kept seeping out, bit by bit, through the holes. So this first creation was later hacked and cut up to rescue the precious heavy beads! (Good stuffing materials are expensive!)

Here is a close up of the crocheted fabric using single crochet stitch (sc). See how large the holes are. (You can even see the orange stuffing of recycled materials within.)

Not only can small pellets/beads fall out, but it is a bit unsightly (to me) to be able to see the stuffing especially as most stuffing is white in colour. That really shows up if you are using dark yarn for your amigurumi crochet.

So I went searching for a better stitch. One that would produce a strong and dense fabric.

Common Crochet Stitch used in Tapestry Crochet and Wayuu Bags

In the meantime, I was also trying out tapestry crochet. The Wayuu bags are a good example of tapestry crochet. They looked very enticing to me so I decided to do some research.

Some crocheters use the standard sc stitch in tapestry crochet and in their wayuu bags. However I find that that produces a fabric that is too ‘holey’ and not quite strong enough to ensure durability in the face of possible rough, daily usage.

If I was going to make these kinds of bags, I wanted a resultant fabric that felt and was in fact, very strong to ensure that the bags would be sturdy and long-lasting.

There are lots of videos on Wayuu bags and on tapestry crochet on youtube. Most crocheters seem to use a stitch which they call “modified single crochet” in the making of Wayuu type bags. As I said above, if you look around, there is more than one version of “modified single crochet” around. The video below is an example of the most popular type of ‘modified sc’ used in wayuu bags.

This video, by All Tapestry Crochet, is particularly clear and instructive. As she says, she is using “modified single crochet”.

This version of “modified sc” seems to be the most commonly used sc stitch for tapestry bags and for Wayuu bags in particular. It’s main advantage is that it produces stitches that are stacked on top of each other (ideal of creating “pictures” in your crochet with minimal distortion or slanting stitches).

It also produces a horizontal ridge in your crocheted fabric. This can be very useful and decorative when used effectively.

I tried out this modified sc and while I like it, it does not produce as strong a fabric as does my ksc stitch (knit single crochet stitch).

Note: For a long while, I thought that there was just one single crochet (sc). Then recently I paid more attention to a stitch called “Modified single crochet”. But shortly after that, I found that there was no one definitive type of ‘modified sc’. In fact, there are various ‘modified single crochet’ stitches so that the name by and of itself is not very helpful nor definitive.

The Waistcoat Stitch

Once again, I apologize for not being able to make a how-to video for you. I just don’t know how even though I have tried and tried. I only produce shockers.

The advantages of waistcoat stitch:

very very strong and dense fabric (perfect for bags and amigurumi stuffed creations)
stitches stack up vertically (which is important when crocheting 'images')

The waistcoat stitch is a very easy variation of the single crochet stitch.

Instead of putting the hook through the top 2 loops, insert the hook into the “v” of the previous row. Then do as you would a normal sc: yarn over, pull through, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on hook.

Tip: if you are doing tapestry crochet and are using multiple colours, you don’t need to float the unused yarn behind. In fact, you don’t want to do that. Rather, catch the strands of unused yarn as you work.

Here are a couple of WIP (work in progress) photos. They illustrate the use of waistcoat crochet stitch. The waistcoat stitch is currently my favourite crochet stitch for amigurumi projects for its tough sturdiness, its ideal suitability for creating un-skewed images, and for its densely packed stitches.

Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag - Muted Hues of Myth & Fauna

2024-01-15T23:04:00.003+11:00

As with the Cat & Fishes tapestry crochet bag, this Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag is also a one-time, one of a kind design. A large bag suitable for daily use, for packing some gear for a weekend away, or for the hopeful shopping trips.

DRAWSTRING TAPESTRY CROCHET BAG – MYTH & FAUNA (CH0418 – SOLD)

This drawstring tapestry crochet bag is worked like the traditional Wayuu bags, but in a firmer, stronger crochet stitch for extra durability. It features the ever popular retro colours. The all round patterned designs are individually unique – ranging from little quirky animals to mystical Kokopelli.

Specifications & Features

base diamater: approx. 24.5cm / 9.6in
height: 36cm / 14.2in
very strong and sturdy large holdall bag
can be worn over shoulder or across body
bag strap with adjustable length
classy, secure metal grommets for drawstring
hand-crocheted matching drawstring with hand beaded, semi-precious stopper bead
fully lined with internal pockets
magnetic button on pocket
strong hardware for strap buckle
reinforced round mandala crocheted base

Core Materials

strong acrylic yarn
Czech beads, cat's eyes gemstone beads, Delica and Japanese seed beads
metal buckle
metal grommets & eyelets
strong lining

status: g755 ML0 et {}(gifted to Cindy; Christmas 2018)

Techniques

Body: tapestry crochet with knit single-crochet (aka waistcoat stitch) as the main stitch
Base: overlay crochet adapted from “Spanish Mandala” design byTatsiana Kupryianchyk from LillaBjornCrochet
Shoulder strap: using strong, non-stretchy strap-sc stitch (aka Thermal Stitch)
Drawstring Cord: Duo Sided Crochet Cord
Beaded Bead (drawstring stopper): from Sidonia's Beaded Bead tutorial on youTube

I have included grommets for the drawstring to offer strong, better looking, and easier opening and closing. The drawstring cord is hand crocheted in strong cording method. The stop bead on the drawstring is a hand beaded large bead made from Czech beads, cat’s eyes semi-precious gemstones, and Japanese seed beads.

This bag can be worn over the shoulder or across body. Bag strap has a metal buckle with metal eyelets, making it conveniently adjustable in length. The strap itself sports round, charming rivets.

Bag is fully lined and comes with an inner pocket and a magnetic closure.

Even the base of the bag is an attraction in itself - worked in overlay crochet to produce a colourful, reinforced mandala. ( Spanish Mandala design from LillaBjornCrochet pattern).

The colours are muted, retro with a gentle touch of ethnicity.

Bag has been protected with a water-shield treatment, making the surface water and stain repellant.

Sources of Inspiration & WIP Notes

Graph Pattern for Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag

I graphed this over 160×70 (stitches x rows). I was using yarn suitable for 4mm knitting needles. Crocheted with 2.5mm hook. Note: The 160stitches is determined firstly by the size of the circular base (number of stitches along ending circumference). So crochet base first, then graph pattern, then crochet body.

Credit for the components that made up the design: (all obtained from Pinterest):

Doggie: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651132254/
Bunny: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651132251/
Cat: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131735/
Panda: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131811/
Kokopelli: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131650/
Row of Figures:
https://au.pinterest.com/pin/79516749651131504/

And for a completeness, I will just leave some WIP photos here. I often find them very useful over time.

Rivets for Bag Strap

In this instance, the rivets are more for show than for riveting strength. The strap is invisibly and strongly sewn onto bag after the rivets.

Note that washers are used on both the right and wrong sides of the strap. The washers will prevent any possibility of the rivets falling thorough the crocheted fabric.

Making the Drawstring Cord

Note that it is not necessary to have the yarn coming out of the grommet hole. However it is advisable to have the stop bead larger than the grommet hole. The metal bead shown here is only used as a core bead, which I will bead over later.

BagFeet & Bag Lining

While bag feet hardware are optional, if you have them, they should be done before the lining. (Don’t forget the stiffener for the base of the bag.)

Important: The photo shows the pocket a bit lower than the final result. I made a mistake in the photo. The pocket should be a bit higher up. Normally about 6-7cm from opening or in this instance, from the drawstring line.

Ladder Stitch, Beading How To

2024-01-15T16:05:00.107+11:00

The Ladder Stitch is generally used as a foundation (start) stitch for Brick Stitch and Herringbone stitch. This stitch can be done with either one (traditional way) or 2-needle approach.

This image will serve as reminder for those who already know how to weave the Ladder Stitch.

BEADING: LADDER STITCH
IMAGE SOURCE: HANDMADE-JEWELRY-CLUB.COM

Ladder Stitch: How To

Recommended: This first YouTube video, by Fire Mountain Gems, is very clear, fast. They also have easy, illustrated tutorial on the ladder stitch.

These next videos are also worth watching if you want a full refresher or have never done a Ladder Stitch.

DIY Easy Beading Stitches - The Ladder Stitch (by EvaEvaEva923)

Basic tutorial on ladder stitch, using 1 needle.

How to create a Ladder Stitch – Beading (from JewelrySupply.com)

In this video, 3 beads are used together for the depth of the ladder stitch.

Ladder Stitch Beadweaving Instructions (by Potomac Bead Company)

Good tip. Shows how to use a 2-needle approach as well as how to quicken the ladder stitch weaving (by picking up more than one stitch, a side, at a time)

Using the Ladder Stitch as More than a Foundation Row

This ladder beaded stitch can also be more than just a foundation beaded row.

The thing to remember about making a swatch of ladder stitch is that you use the previous row as anchor for the current one (as shown in images below).

S-Method How to get Thicker Yarn from Thin

2022-01-18T13:43:00.008+11:00

I call this the S-Method because that is what it was referred to when I first heard about this handy trick of getting a thicker yarn (3x thicker) from thin yarn. And I continue to call this the S-Method because it serves as a useful reminder for how we start this process.

This is one handy and short video (by Briana K / YouTube)

Wassily01A Boxy Japanese Jacket XL Extra Large (CH0526A)

2021-08-20T02:14:00.153+10:00

When I gifted the first of this original Wassily01 Boxy Japanese Jacket to my friend last year as a belated birthday present, it was too small for her. So this year, I have used exactly the same pattern but with different yarns and hook sizes to create this Extra Large and roomy Japanese Boxy Jacket. I hope this time, we have a successful fit.

Wassily01A Japanese Boxy Jacket XL (CH0526A)

Pattern Availability

Where to Buy this Pattern

• Wassily01 Jacket pattern on Ravelry

Materials & Specifications

Size:	Loose Fit. XL (Extra Large). This should comfortably fit AU sz 16 and above.
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Yarn:	2 yarns worked together: 1) 8ply acrylic (mix of Paintbox, Stylecraft, Heirloom Dazzle) and 2) superfine/fingering alpaca blend yarn (ICE Caress Baby Alpaca 30% alpaca, 31% extrafine merino, 36% Polyamide, 3% elastan)
Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	DK yarns – 4mm Superfine/Fingering yarn – 2 or 3mm
Hooks Used:	4mm (used 3mm in original Wassily01 Jacket)
Number of Colours:	2 or more
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	Linked C2C (Normal C2C can also be employed but expect some size difference)
Level:	Intermediate to Advance or anyone familiar with Need to be comfortable working off charted/graphed patterns
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	1.25kg
Work Time (approx.; excl. prep & graphing):	3 weeks

Status: n/a 2021, Gift to Christine in XL size◊

Brief Summary of Changes

What follows is only a brief summary; more to remind myself than anything else. Please refer to the original Wassily01 Japanese Boxy Jacket blog for full photos and steps.

I followed the graph and pattern as per Wassily01 Boxy jacket.

To make this bigger XL size, I worked the stated 2 yarns weights together for each colour.

Note: I deliberately chose the fine yarn to have a good alpaca content. Not only is alpaca yarn very warm but almost as importantly, it is a very light yarn (due to its hollow structure, I believe). I wanted to minimize the final weight of the garment as it can get pretty heavy if I just used any old thicker yarn to achieve the larger size.

Fingering weight (4ply)

I used a larger hook (4mm instead of 3mm) for most of the body.

As you can see, I changed the colours.

Tip: print out the original legend. And stick in the yarns wrt the new colour palette. This helps a lot, believe me!

The front and neck border is worked in CMC (Clean Mosaic Crochet) using a different mosaic crochet pattern from Barbara Walker’s book of (mosaic knitting) patterns. I also used a thicker yarn (Aran wt; Creative Corner) but still with 4mm hook for the border.

Comparison of Sizes

This Wassily01A in XL to the original Wassily01 Jacket.

Oversize Top in Clean Mosaic Crochet (CMC) • pattern (CH0534)

2021-07-29T22:44:00.493+10:00

A warm, easy, oversize top in CMC: It is winter, I am feeling fat but cold. I wanted an easy to put on top/vest that I can wear anywhere. Something that would hide my fatty bits while hopefully, look a bit flattering. All I can say is that I was so pleased with this pattern that (so far), I have made three 😀

Oversize Top in Clean Mosaic Crochet (CMC) • pattern (CH0534)

And for a bonus, it is reversible! (Just as long as your joining seams are pretty neat).

collection of oversized tops

Right side, Front

Right side, Back

Inside Out, Front

Inside Out, Back

Pattern Availability

WHERE TO BUY/DOWNLOAD THIS PATTERN

Oversize Top/Vest in CMC – PDF download, graph pattern (ClearlyHelena store)
Oversize Top/Vest in CMC – PDF pattern, graph pattern on Ravelry

Basic Pattern Info

Size: Loose Fit. Australian Sz 8-12. (Please see FAQ below for suggestions on other sizes)
Crochet Terminology: American and/or pictorial crochet symbols
Yarn: DK (Double Knit) / 8ply – from a variety of brands incl. • Paintbox Simply DK • ICE Dora • Dazzle Heirloom 8ply • Patons Sierra
Manufacturer’s Recommended Needle Size: 3-4mm
Hook(s) Used: • 2.2mm (for opt. Crab Stitch edging)
• 3mm (for MM foundation row, and opt. Top-chaining)
• 4mm (MAIN. For body)
No. of Cols: 4 colours.
5 colours if using different contrast colour for Collar (opt)
Crochet Technique(s): CMC (Clean Mosaic Crochet)
Final Nett Wt (approx): 0.5 – 0.6 kg
Work Time: (lost count!)
Level: Intermediate to Advanced, Or anyone familiar with Mosaic Crochet, specifically CMC. Need to be comfortable working off charted/graphed patterns.

Status: n/a (mine).

Gauge

Yarn: any DK yarn
Hook: 4mm hook
Technique: CMC (Clean Mosaic Crochet)
GAUGE: 10x10cm == 16.9 sts x 21.1 R i.e. 22 sts x 19 R == 13 x 9 cm

MEASUREMENTS

FAQ

Q. Size – this is too small for me. How do I make a bigger size?

Ans. I am sorry that I have not made additional graphs in larger sizes. However you can still make larger sizes just by doing any of the following: • use large hook sizes &/or • use thicker yarns (I suggest DK weight for sizes that might fit Au Sz8 – 16)

Important that you make samples to check your gauge. Many people don’t bother making a gauge sample but, while it only gives you an approximation, it will still give you the best guess as to whether you are going to end up with something that is way too small, way too large, or just right … ask Goldilocks!!!

Q. Techniques – can I use other Mosaic Crochet techniques with the graphs?

Ans. Yes, indeed you can. That will invariably result in different sizing ( hence, sample gauges are so important) and you may have other aspects to deal with (e.g. lots of cut tails), but if you are ok with that, then I would say, “Go for it”.

While I do not show how to here, it is definitely possible to semi-redesign these tops to be worked mostly in the round (with whatever MC technique you want to use). That would be one way to solve the cut tails issue.

Behind The Scenes

The oversize top looks so simple now that it is done, but it took me days to play around with the colours because it just would not work!! But all bad things come to an end! 😀

Status: n/a (mine)

CMC Oversize Top – WIP Photos

Some of these photos will be of especial interests to anyone who gets the pattern – especially as an additional visual confirmation of their work progress. Additionally, while I don’t dictate how the pieces are to be joined in the pattern, I do show how I did it here in the photos below.

Sequence of Work

This is just a guide to how I did it. It is not essential that you do it in the same sequence.

Front
Back
Top-chain around 3 sides (excl. bottom) – preparing for joining and collar
Join shoulder seams
Make neckband / collar (worked in the round)
Side seams – sew/crochet up to armholes
Finish/Neaten armholes (how, is up to you but some pics of how I chose to do mine are included below)

The Pattern

The front and back are all worked off the graphs in the paid pattern.

The graph for the collar is also included. The collar is optional. You can forego it and neaten off edges. Or you can make other collars/neckbands, as you desire.

Differing Colors – Different Tops/Samples

I ended up making 3 of these tops (so far). The photos I use here depict WIP (work in progress) of parts of these 3 tops – which is why the colours may vary.

Note: you may notice that the colours in the photos below do not always correspond to the finished tops. That is because I had to do so many trial runs with various yarns that some of the photos here reflect this fact. However the method/technique/step is identical so it is for that reason that they are included here, despite the colour differences.

Concentrate on the techniques/notes in the photos; not the inconsistent colours.

For my first top, you can see that the front vs the back is quite different. However both are worked with the same graphed pattern, except for the neckline.

Note: I primarily worked the back here with just the cream yarn because I wanted to see how it would look. The paid graphed-patterns will be utitilising the 3-yarn technique, as per the front.

Right side, Front

Right side, Back

For both front and back, I used only one colour of yarn for the background (represented by white squares in the graph). That happened to be this gradient/ombre yarn: Patons Sierra 8ply.

For the front, I had 3 different shades of yarn (dk gray, med gray, cream) as contrast yarn, to create the light-to-dark look. How and where to change yarn colours are all noted in the charted graphed patterns.

Start Work – Front or Back

Begin with either Front or Back and work from graph.

How to Start: Rows 0 – 1

👩🏻‍🏫 Mini-Tutorial: Diagonal Lines in CMC When Working from the Back

There are quite a number of diagonal lines in this pattern. While I have already explained the basics of working CMC slanted/diagonal lines in the CMC Tutorial, I will add a bit more details here – specifically when you have to work diagonal lines from the WS (Wrong Side) of your work.

Let’s say you are working on R95 with the WS facing you. I have indicated the specific diagonal stitches in green in the photo.

We will be making a dc2tog to create the diagonal lines indicated, from the WS of the work. This is illustrated in the photos below.

INSERT HOOK INTO DC FROM 2 ROWS DOWN AND 2 STITCHES BACK (AS PER GRAPH)

YO AND PULL THROUGH =>3 LOOPS ON HOOK

YO AND PULL THROUGH 2 => 2 LOOPS ON HOOK

YO, HOOK INTO DC 2 ROWS DOWN AND 2 STITCHES FWD, AS PER GRAPH

YO, PULL THROUGH. => 4 LOOPS ON HOOK.

YO, PULL THROUGH 2 => 3 LOOPS ON HOOK

YO, PULL THROUGH 2 => 2 LOOPS ON HOOK

YO, PULL THRU 2 => 1 LOOP ON HOOK

Collar / Neckband (opt)

For this pattern, you can finish the neckline however you want to; with or without collar. For myself, I made a tapered collar (more description below).

I chose to use this pattern sample from Barbara Walker’s “Mosaic Knitting”, a fabulous library of patterns.

You can see that it is a repeated pattern comprising of a multiple of 10 stitches. You can ignore the 3 stitches for edges because we will be working in the round; not a flat piece.

To that end, I picked up 100 stitches around the neckline (which of course, is a multiple of 10).

Preparing and Neatening Front & Back

While each of us have our own preferred way of picking up stitches, I will illustrate how I did mine here:

It is a good idea to prepare the neckline before we do the mosaic crochet (MC) pattern. In this instance, I have actually prepared all the edges of both Front & Back (excluding the hem) with top-chaining.

Again I stress that how you neaten edges, join the seams, work the collar is up to you. This is just my preferred way as it gives me clean, neat edges and clear stitches to work with.

LEAVE/REAPPLY THE MARKERS FOR THE ARMHOLES

R0: SC ALL ROUND

R0 DONE. 100 SC ALL ROUND

COLLAR / NECKBAND

The top-chaining makes joining up so much neater and easier. Join the shoulder seams so you can work the collar in the round. Once you have joined the shoulder seams, you can create the tapered collar.

To create the taper in the Collar, change hook sizes as shown in the graph.

Finishing up the Armholes

How the armholes are finished is also a matter of preference. Here is how I did mine.

Join up the side seams, up to the armhole markers.

(From another top)

Finished Gallery of Oversize Top in CMC

Glowing Miracle-Bead Crochet Bag - Beaded Crochet

2021-01-07T00:16:00.010+11:00

This Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag is also a one-time, one of a kind design. This bag is crocheted with the super-intriguing Miracle Beads, aka Magic Beads. The 'magic' of these beads is that they will glow under natural light. So at the most unexpected, delightful occasion, your bag will seem to burst forth with an inner glow. Furthermore, they have the mesmerising illusion of a bead within a bead. This 'magic' has to be seen to fully appreciated.

Glowing Miracle-Bead Crochet Bag (CH0419)

This drawstring tapestry crochet bag is worked like the traditional Wayuu bags, but in a firmer, stronger crochet stitch for extra durability.

Specifications & Features

• base diamater: approx. 23 cm / 9 in
• height: 24.5 cm / 9.6 in
• very strong and sturdy bag
• can be worn over shoulder or across body
• bag strap with adjustable length
• classy, secure metal grommets for drawstring
• hand-crocheted matching drawstring with hand beaded stopper bead
• fully lined with internal pockets
• strong hardware for strap buckle
• reinforced round mandala crocheted base

Core Materials

• strong acrylic yarn
• galvanised silver drops, cut crystal beads, luminous clear seed beads, faceted rondelle beads, miracle beads
• metal buckle
• metal grommets, rivets, & eyelets
• strong lining

status: g510 NML n/l

Techniques

Body: tapestry crochet with knit single-crochet (aka waistcoat stitch) as the main stitch
Base: overlay crochet adapted from “Dandelion Mandala” design byTatsiana Kupryianchyk from LillaBjornCrochet
Shoulder strap: using strong, non-stretchy strap-sc stitch (aka Thermal Stitch)
Drawstring Cord: Duo Sided Crochet Cord
Beaded Bead (drawstring stopper): from Sidonia's Beaded Bead tutorial on youTube

The Grommets!

I have included grommets for the drawstring. The grommets allow for easier opening and closing as the drawstring passes easily through the metal grommets. Not only do the grommets add to its good looks, but it also makes for a stronger bag. The drawstring is hand crocheted in strong cording method.

This bag can be worn over the shoulder or across body. Bag strap has a metal buckle which allows it’s length to be conveniently adjusted.

The Stop Beads

The stop beads on the drawstring are hand beaded large beads made from galvanised silver drops, cut crystal beads, luminous clear seed beads, faceted rondelle beads, and 6mm miracle beads.

Lining

Bag is fully lined and comes with an 2 inner pocket – suitable for phones and the usual and necessary miscellaneous objects.

Base of Bag

Even the base of the bag is an attraction in itself – worked in overlay crochet to produce a colourful, reinforced mandala. (Dandelion Mandala design, a LillaBjornCrochet pattern).

The colours of yarn and beads used here are boldly and happily bright, colourful, and filled with va-va-voom life!! Suitable for daily wear, party wear, travel, and for fun journeys.

WIP Notes and Photos

And for completeness, I will just leave some WIP photos here. I often find them very useful over time.

For fuller detailed, how-to steps, please refer to How to Make Tapestry Crochet Bags.

Chart: Pillow Cushion Sizes Info

2021-01-01T13:20:00.007+11:00

Another quickie article for convenient referencing only.

Note: as with so many other sizing info, there is no one universal agreed sizing. So use these measurements only as good approximations for your projects.

Chinese Box Top in Clean Mosaic Crochet (CH0352) 📒

2020-12-01T15:19:00.519+11:00

Chinese Box Top is made for charm and comfort with a dash of stylised Chinese characters. This was made using the Clean Mosaic Crochet method, featuring a loose, comfortable shaping that I really appreciate.

Chinese Box Top in Clean Mosaic Crochet (CH0352) (pattern listed)

The Chinese Box Top features stylized Chinese characters. While I cannot read all the characters (and some might have been stylized out of their original meaning!), I did make the Mosaic Crochet hem with a stylised “double happiness” character. Who could possibly say no to a dose of double happiness!

This top is ideal for the cooler climes of autumn and spring by using, as I have, cool yarns like cotton, viscose, bamboo. It can also be made in other yarns to make a warm and toasty winter top. I have made this particular one using a beautifully luxuriant and soft yarn comprising of 50% bamboo & 50% viscose.

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

• Chinese Box Top in CMC – PDF download, graph pattern on ClearlyHelena store

• Chinese Box Top in CMC – PDF pattern, graph pattern on Ravelry

㊙

Materials & Specifications

Approx. Size:	Loose Fit. Australian Sz 8-12 (Please see FAQ below for suggestions on other sizes.)
Yarn:	ICE YARN. 50% Bamboo, 50% Viscose (or any Fine {aka Sport-weight / Baby / 4ply} yarn)
Crochet Technique/Stitch:	CMC (Clean Mosaic Crochet)
Crochet Terminology:	American & Crochet Symbols
Level:	Intermediate to Advanced or anyone familiar with Mosaic Crochet; preferably CMC. Need to be comfortable working off charted/graphed patterns
Manufacturer's Recommended Needle/Hook Size:	3-4 MM
Hooks Used:	2.2mm (body); 2mm (bands)
Number of Colours:	2 (or more)
Final Nett Wt (approx.):	950g
Work Time (approx.; excl. prep & graphing):	(lost count!)
Care:	Recommended cold/warm gentle hand wash. Squeeze (not wring) out water. Roll in dry towel to absorb more moisture. Dry flat.

GAUGE (approx.)	[10×10 cm] = 21.8x20 (stitches x rows) (2.2mm hook, sample worked in CMC technique)

Status: n/a ℋmine

Just a working draft to firt imagine how it might look.

Chinese Box Top: Measurements

FAQ

Q. Size – this is too small for me. How do I make a bigger size?

Ans.
I am sorry that I have not made additional graphs in larger sizes. However you can still make larger sizes just by doing any of the following:

• use large hook sizes &/or

• use thicker yarns (I suggest DK weight for sizes that might fit Au Sz12 – 16)

Important that you make samples to check your gauge. Many people don’t bother making a gauge sample but, while it only gives you an approximation, it will still give you the best guess as to whether you are going to end up with something that is way too small, way too large, or just right … ask Goldilocks!!!

Q. Mosaic Crochet method – Can I use other Mosaic Crochet methods?

Ans.
This is ideally suited to CMC because you do not have cut ends and you do not have to do “redundant” rows which adds to the length of the pieces – something you might not want. I haven’t and won’t make this project in other Mosaic Crochet methods but I would think it is possible to use any of the Mosaic Crochet methods, be it the Chain-Space (aka Inset) method or the flat Overlay Mosaic Crochet method.

If using Overlay Mosaic Crochet (with cut ends) method, you will just have to find a way to deal with the numerous yarn ends on each side of the pieces.

With the Chain-Space method (aka inset method), you will have to keep an eye on the length of the pieces, making sure that neither the body nor the sleeves is not too long!

(Please refer to Mosaic Crochet Overview - the Different Methods, for explanation of the different methods just mentioned.)

Q. Your Yarn – I like your yarn. Where can I find it?

Ans.
I LOVE LOVE LOVE this yarn too. It is cool, with good drape, not too thin, great to crochet with, and feels very quality-luxuriant.

However, I am so sorry to say it has been discontinued. I have searched and searched for this yarn or something with the identical composition. But the suppliers (Ice Yarns) have for some incomprehensible reason, discontinued this yarn.
(This top was made from my precious hoard. Quite reluctantly, truth be told. But I sternly told myself that I must use what I have because… honestly, I am just about out of storage space!)

My best suggestion if to just find a comparable Fine/Sports-weight yarn. There are quite a lot of bamboo/cotton; bamboo/linen; cotton/viscose combinations out there. Or go the more traditional route of wool, alpaca, cashmere for a warmer and more winter appropriate top. I am sure it would be wonderful for winter gear with warmer yarns. I may even make another winter-appropriate one for myself! Next winter …😃

Behind the Scenes

The pattern for this top was inspired by Chinese/Asian characters. I have more or less, stylised them – with a bias more towards artistic appeal than to the meaning of the characters.

I have however deliberately graphed the “Double Happiness” character for the hem. I love the meaning behind that and wish the same blessing for anyone who decides to make this top. ❤❤ … or even if you don’t!

Chinese Box Top – WIP Photos

Some of these photos will be of especial interests for anyone who buys the pattern – especially as an additional visual confirmation of their work progress. Additionally, while I don’t dictate how the pieces are to be joined in the pattern, I do show how I did it here in the photos below.

Sequence of Work
All the bands are worked in the round. It is always bulky and awkward to keep turning a large piece of garment when working in the round. So to minimise this bulk, I have worked the Chinese top in the following sequence.

Front
Back
Sleeves (2)
Sleeve seams – sew up/crochet join
Sleeve bands
Shoulder Seams - sew up/crochet join
Neck Band
Side Seams - sew up/crochet join; up to be excluding armholes
Hem Band
Join sleeves to body
Neaten where necessary

The pieces are all worked, in CMC, from the graphs which are included in the paid pattern.

For what it is worth, here are a sequence of wip photos for the front’s neckline.

SLEEVES: Sleeves, Seams, Bands

I used the Crochet Join: Raised Chains Join for the seams. You can use any method that works for you.

Shoulder, Neckband

The shoulder seams are joined and then the neckband can be worked in the round.

Shoulder Seam
I used Crochet Raised Chains Join for the shoulder seam but you can use any method you like.

Neckband
Once the shoulders joins are done, we can work around the neckband.

Detailed instructions for making the neckband (worked in mosaic crochet, in the round) are to be found in the Chinese Box Top pattern (.pdf, paid pattern). Below are some WIP photos for the neckband.

Credit for the neckband's Mosaic Pattern: based on Barbara Walker’s Fig.90/Band 47 in her book “Mosaic Knitting“.

Side Seams

Optional: I top-chained up along the side edges before I joined the front and back pieces together. This gave me a neater edge from which to work the joins. You can choose to omit this step.

And you can choose any method to make the side seams. I top-stitched along the edges for the side seams; up to but not excluding the armholes (of course!)

Hem Band

The hem features a stylised Double Happiness (Chinese character).

I discovered that I had made an error here re. the Chinese character after I finished this garment. So what you see here is not what is offered in the finished graphed pattern.

The corrected Mosaic Crochet chart for “Double Happiness” is available in the (paid) pdf pattern.

Join Sleeves to Body

I don’t have photos of how to join the sleeves. I know you know how to do that your way.

Finished Gallery of Chinese Box Top

Personal Note

re. my logo

Clearly Helena

Tunisian Crochet - Terminlogy (basic)

Tunisian Abbreviations

Interlocking Crochet - Basics

What is Interlocking Crochet?

Sample: Most Basic Interlocking Crochet Exercise

Prelim

Interlocking Crochet - Sample Exercise (video)

Wire Straightener

How to use Wire Straightener gadget

Crescent Moon Shawl "Night Lights" (CH0548)

Materials & Specifications

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

Crescent Moon Shawl in Sierra Glacier Lake (CH0547)

Materials & Specifications

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

CH0546 Crescent Moon Shawl with Dangly Pearls

Materials & Specifications

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

Behind the Scenes..

Crescent Moon Shawl CH0545 📒

Materials & Specifications

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

Inset dc Filet Crochet

Cropped Bomber Jacket (CH0543) 📒

Materials & Specifications

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

Lessons Learnt

Sierra Spring Top (CH0541) 📝

Materials & Specifications (See "Lessons Learnt" below for future modifications)

How-To Notes and Steps

⓵ Body (tube)

⓶ Hem Border

⓷ Yoke

⓸ (SHORT) SLEEVES

⓹ Sleeve Border in Mosaic Crochet

Joining Pieces, Collar Band, and Finishing Garment

Sew Sleeves to Body

Close-ups

Lessons Learnt

Brioche Crochet Beanie (CH0540) 📒

Brioche Crochet Beanie 1

More Details on Beanie 1

Materials & Specifications (These apply to all three beanies.)

WHERE TO BUY THIS PATTERN

Brioche Crochet Beanie 2

Brioche Crochet Beanie 3

Summary Steps

Useful Links

Stacked dc and Standing dc

How to Join the MM Caston into a Round

What is Short Row Crochet? vs Brioche Crochet

How will I use the term "Brioche Crochet"?

Short Row Crochet

What is the "Hitch" or "H" in Short Row Crochet?

How to Use the Hex Anvil - UPDATED!

Basic Riveting using the Hex Anvil (a historial pictorial tutorial by FusionBeads.com ... I think was from 2012)

Fabric Twine - How-to

Samples of Creations from Fabric Twine

Crochet Stitch - Waistcoat Stitch, How to

Common Crochet Stitch used in Amigurumi dolls

Common Crochet Stitch used in Tapestry Crochet and Wayuu Bags

The Waistcoat Stitch

Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag - Muted Hues of Myth & Fauna

Specifications & Features

Core Materials

Techniques

Sources of Inspiration & WIP Notes

Graph Pattern for Drawstring Tapestry Crochet Bag

Rivets for Bag Strap

Making the Drawstring Cord

BagFeet & Bag Lining

Ladder Stitch, Beading How To

Ladder Stitch: How To

DIY Easy Beading Stitches - The Ladder Stitch (by EvaEvaEva923)

How to create a Ladder Stitch – Beading (from JewelrySupply.com)

Ladder Stitch Beadweaving Instructions (by Potomac Bead Company)

Using the Ladder Stitch as More than a Foundation Row

S-Method How to get Thicker Yarn from Thin

Wassily01A Boxy Japanese Jacket XL Extra Large (CH0526A)

Basic Riveting using the Hex Anvil
(a historial pictorial tutorial by FusionBeads.com ... I think was from 2012)