When I started this blog, I swore that I shall never post anything that risk besmirching the image of my hometown, Davao, and the rest of Mindanao.  The purpose of this blog, I resolved, was to promote tourism, discuss news and developments, exhibit photos, and mark important events in Davao and the Mindanao beyonds.

I surmise that it is time for me to get real, down and dirty in the face of a shocking UNdevelopment.

Yesterday evening, getting home from a whole day of pounding in a government office in Taft Avenue, Manila, I found a mouth-rending news story on GMA.  It was about TV journalist Cez Drilon’s alleged kidnapping in Sulu.

Sulu, of course, is a sub-archipelago in southwestern Mindanao. Now, there’s the rub — the mere mention of “Mindanao” would most certainly act as an invocation of the ugly specters of terrorism and unrest. This would likely happen to the uninformed or to those who have not set foot on Mindanao. It’s a sorry cycle that’s hard to undo in the non-Mindanawon psyche.  Well, that includes foreigners who would normally feel hesitation whenever met with the prospect of getting to Mindanao.

The foreigners i’ve seen in Davao have a lot to tell their brethren (is this term in any way gender-insenstive?) on what they had been missing for not coming over.  Hopefully, that would elicit non-visitor regret for ever believing in generalist anti-Mindanao travel advisories.  Because, after all, Mindanao is not all about kidnappings, skirmishes, rebellions, insurgency and unrest.  For instance, tourists who have been to Davao can attest to the peace and security, not to mention the wonders and tourist attractions which abound from its islands to its highlands.

Indeed, the UNdevelopment in Sulu will set off a viral outbreak engulfing the “innocent” regions in Mindanao, a domino effect of sorts that would topple the painstakingly built images of the regions, provinces and cities which over the years have tried to make a good name for themselves in the effort to attract investors, tourists and relocators. This contagion or outbreak, spawned by generalized or sensationalized reports of events and anomalies occurring in a single point in Mindanao (Sulu, for instance), and which create public impression that such events or anomalies pervade or exist throughout the whole island, is the so-called Mindanao Stigma.

With such unsettling news, I can’t help but be defensive. Knowing the “generalist” media, I expect that in no time, the broadcast and print platforms will be awash with unfair, nay scurrilous, articles, accounts and news items on Mindanao. Not to generalize, though, but it can be observed that many media practioners still breathe life into the smelly nostrils of the notorious Mindanao stigma.  Such are the yellow curtains of an  unfair, unbalanced and sensationalist brand of reportage that lends a myopic but glaringly uninformed view of Mindanao.

With that, please treat this post as an appeal: Let the trouble in Sulu remain in Sulu.  Avoid using general terms like “Mindanao” or “Southern Philippines” when referring to the locus of this incident. After all, the media never uses “Visayas” to refer to such Provinces or Cities as Cebu, Iloilo or Bacolod.  Neither does media use “Luzon” when referring to Albay, Bicol or Ilocos. 

It’s about time, perhaps that the media collectively take on the responsibility of finally eradicating the “Mindanao stigma” and its destructive effects.  I admit that this task would be long and hard, but starting now will do a lot in safeguarding not only the good image but also the potentials of the other provinces, cities or regions where none of these evils occur but which are too unlucky to slip into the “Mindanao” branding trap. This applies to Bloggers and the Web media, as well.

I arrived in Manila last night at around 11:30 PM after a much delayed flight.  It didn’t really bother me that much because I was not in any need of haste.  Oh, by the way, the controversial Senator Jamby Madrigal was in 1F, that’s  4 seats in front of me on flight PR 816.  Which brought me to ask (internally), had she been checking out Davao’s attractions lately?  A stroll at the People’s Park maybe?  I noticed she had a slight tan.  So was it Pearl Farm? Malipano? Buenavista Island of the Davao Ayalas (vis-a-vis the Makati Ayalas)? Uhmm maybe not, it looked pretty much like her natural skin tone.  Then, was she taking a little break from Senatorial hubbub or was she taking time off from the row on her aunt’s estate (allegedly worth more than the ZTE deal)?  I doubt it.  It was a pretty smooth flight though, but a little rough on the landing.  So, okay, now to my story. 

My mom know quite a number of people at PAL, for regularly “flying Philippine Airlines,” and being rather friendly to the staff.  Sometimes I wonder why attendants at the Mabuhay Lounge (in Manila) would serve her food and stuff.  I mean, isn’t the Mabuhay Lounge a self-service area?  Must be the privilege of being a Mabuhay Premier Elite member.  So, it was not the least surprising that when I went to the Philippine Airlines ticketing office at the Davao International Airport to pay for my unplanned flight, one of the ladies handed a shiny, crisp copy of Mabuhay Magazine.  Apparently, my mom had told them about my story having made it to the Mag.  It was rather flattering, although a little awkward, but at least I wouldn’t have to steal a copy from the Business class seats in the plane!

So, that over, I went to the parking area supposedly to take off and finish packing.  But then something familiar figured in my periphery, something so familiar but which I haven’t gotten the chance to see up close.  So I grabbed my Nokia and treaded closer to a silhouette of a structure that even the dumbest brain surgeon would recognize as, none other than, a Durian.  A pretty huge one to be exact.   So huge in fact that six people can fit in a fifth of it. 

I went over and clicked away.  But I was immensely frustrated with the results because the glare from the early afternoon sun was getting to my phone’s camera lens thereby obliterating the “face” of the sculpture.  All i was getting was a dark silhouette, so I relented on the fifth take.

A while ago, thinking I should post the pic on this Blog as planned, I was a great deal worried about how my readers would take it.  I mean, I feared reactions like, “thanks for posting that spiny shadow,” and similar forms of mockery.  So, with a gleam of hope and lots of desperation, I opened Photoshop and tested my crude skills at editing pictures.  So I worked on the picture, duplicating layers, working on levels, as well as adjusting saturation and using the eraser tool (thanks to the help files and online forums).  It took me a good three hours on my laptop. 

The final product? To my unskilled eye, it looked good enough because it lent a better view of the sculpture’s details:  Six people, men and women, presumably native, arranged in two vertical columns, like durian pulp when one of the seed chambers of a real fruit is opened.  Curiously, and I noticed this when I was shooting it, a tiny plant has taken root in the exact center of sculpture’s face.  Click on the pic to see the larger image.

The Durian sculpture at the Davao International Aiport was created by Davao’s very own Kublai Millan.  Kublai also did the awesome sculptures at downtown Davao’s brand new People’s Park.

I also took few other pictures: the roof details of the Davao International Airport as well as the Welcome sign on the sloping lawn on the way out of the Airport compound.  Go check them out and tell me what you think.  Hope you like ‘em.

I promised in a previous post on my Island Hopping escapades that I will be providing Island-hopping information, tips, reminders, maps and costing guides—things that aren’t easy to find on the Web.  Good thing I’ve had ample time today to make good that promise, and cook up this “helpful” post based on my family’s time-tested Island-hopping recipe.  I hope this could be of help to readers or their friends who are planning to embark on an adventure cruise in and around the Davao Gulf.  I am open to suggestions, additions, corrections and criticism.  Drop me a comment or send me an email via the About page.

Commercial Island-Hopping Packages.  For a maximum of convenience, contact any of Davao and Samal’s Travel and Tour Agencies, Resorts and Hotels for offerings.  Standard Island-Hopping tours already include full-day (8-hour) boat rentals, a tour guide, individually packed lunch, complimentary bottled water, the standard 5 sets of snorkeling gears, and one kayak or banca (oar-driven mini-boat).  These packages take you to at least three major stopover points and normally cruise on the Western Davao Gulf area—the part closer to Davao City.  Rates usually start at Php 15,000 (USD 366) for 20 persons.  Prices can go up or down depending on the number of passengers.

Customized Island-Hopping Package.  Island-hopping doesn’t have to be costly.  The budget-conscious can do away with the kayak and the tour guide.  After all, the boat captain and crew know every nook and cranny of the Davao Gulf like any seasoned Tour guide.  And, most of the larger boats come equipped with a banca or mini-boat so that pretty much steps in for the kayak.  Head over to the Sta. Ana wharf beside the Magsaysay Park in Downtown Davao and make a selection among the many boats docked thereat.  Plan your route and destinations (click the map on the right to see Samal and Talikud’s attractions, taken from The Official Igacos Website). Also, plan your meals ahead of time.  Here are the things to consider in customizing your Island-hopping experience:

Boat Rentals.  The Sta. Ana wharf is host to Davao’s island-hopping boats.  Go to the wharf at most one day before the scheduled tour date and take your pick among the launches docked in the area and make arrangements with the boat owners or crew. A 30 to 40-capacity boat will cost you around Php 4,000 to Php 6,000 (USD 98 to USD 147).  A 90-seater will cost around Php 9,000 (USD 220).  Make sure you set everything straight with the people you’re dealing with, including the price and the amenities included.  I would suggest you take a boat with a lot of breathing space for everyone.  So, If there are 20 of you coming aboard, rent a 30 or 40-seater so you don’t get crammed in.  Remember that you would be bringing food, bags, equipment and what-have-yous.  Now, you wouldn’t want to go around in your two-piece suits with uncanny bag dents on your legs, would you?

Choosing the Right Boat. Making the perfect boat choice depends on the kind of activities you want to do on your Island cruise.  If you intend to bring a banquet or buffet-style lunch on board, a boat with the seats trailing the sides of the boat and with a long table running in the middle would be great.  Built-in amenities and facilities can also count toward your choice.  Some boats come equipped with a dressing room, toilet, view deck, kitchen, and barbecue grills for on-board barbecues.  Some even have karaoke machines installed.  Yet, others have little bedrooms for resting.  The larger boats come equipped with a kayak or banca (mini-boat with oars).  Snorkelling sets may be available for rent, or may come free, depending on the arrangements.  SCUBA gears can be brought aboard, but they entail separate arrangements from diving shops in Sta. Ana wharf.

Maritime Safety Compliance.  Safety and seaworthiness should be on top of island-hoppers’ priorities.  Make sure that the boat and its crew comply with rules and regulation on maritime safety, including but not limited to having the requisite licenses and permits.  All boats must have life vests and fire extinguishers on board.  Larger boats must have a small “rescue ship” in the form of bancas or mini-boats.  It is very important to ensure that you are taking a boat with capacity more than the number of persons joining the tour.  This adds not only safety, but also comfort to your Davao Gulf experience.

Food and Drinks.  Plan ahead on the kind of food you will be bringing aboard.  You can go the cheap but limiting packed lunch fare, or go overboard (ahem) with a grand Davao-style banquet.  Also, be sure to bring lots of ice-cold drinks in ice boxes or coolers. The food and drinks choice depends on your budget and dietary restrictions, but here is my rather generous selection (but didn’t I say “grand Davao-style banquet?”)  with conservative price estimates for 20 passengers:

Food – Est. Total: Php 5,300 / USD 130 (a grand banquet for 20 persons)
Lechon (roasted whole pig)
Kinilaw (tuna or blue marlin cubes in vinegar)
Grilled Panga (jaw of tuna grilled on board or on one of the beach stops)
Lechon Manok (roasted chicken)
Pancit Satemi (spicy sauted noodles)
Puso Rice (leaf-wrapped steamed rice)
Kakanin (native desserts like suman) 
Fruit Basket (a selection of Pomelos and other citrus fruits, Bananas, Pineapples, Lanzones, Rambutan, etc.)

Drinks – Est. Total: Php 700 / USD 17 (more than enough for 20 persons)
Mineral/Bottled Water
Soda
Fruit Juices7
Sparkling Wines

Grand Total for Food and Drinks:  Php 6,000 / USD 147

Route, Destination and Timing.  A full day on a boat sailing aimlessly on the vast Davao Gulf would be like walking the Louvre in a blindfold. Without a well-defined route, you will only be missing the treasures that Davao Gulf holds.  To avoid a misfortune of this sort, discuss your plans ahead with the boat crew, touching on the route, stop overs or destinations, with a mental note on the kind of activities you would want to do at each point.  Be sure to set the details straight, whether you head for Talikud in the morning then trail Samal Island’s west coast up to the Malipano islets in the afternoon, or go a different route sailing past Samal’s northern tip to the Ligid islands or up to Canibad (Aundanao) on the other (eastern) side of Samal and back.  Make ready reference to the time of day you will be reaching each point on the tour.  For instance, if you opt for the western route and head off first to Talikud, Lunch may be had on the boat at Coral Garden or you can partake of your meals on board beached in Babusanta (you can also take your lunch in one of the large, open cottages on the beach), so on and so forth. Remember that the full-day cruise lasts 8 hours, so plan all your destinations and activities well within this time frame.  You can also solicit suggestions from the crew.  They probably know more about the Gulf than we urban heads ever will.

Tips, Food for the Captain and Crew.  Perhaps on a humanitarian note, it would be advisable to give minimal tips to the boat crew.  You may also provide food for them because they can’t risk leaving the passengers in the middle of the Gulf to get lunch at Jollibee or McDonald’s.  Well, to prevent that from happening, you may bring packed lunch for them from, uhh,  Jollibee or McDonald’s. 

Reminder.  Everyone knows that littering not only contaminates the surroundings, but also harms nature and damages ecosystems.  The Davao Gulf in particular, rich as it is in marine resources, providing food, and livelihood, as well as tourism to the Davao Region, must be kept clean and  guarded from the harmful effects of littering and pollution.  Hence, all of us, be we tourists or locals, must take on the responsibility of properly disposing our garbage. To island-hoppers, it is advisable to keep plastic bags where they could keep their garbage.  In the case of small or dry garbage items like candy wrappers, they may be kept in one’s bags or pockets for later disposal into the garbage bins in the city.

Enjoy!  Island-hopping is all about fun and adventure.  It takes you away from the struggles of urban existence and allows you to drift off to experience the beauty and wonders of nature.  That’s the tried and tested relief that Dabawenyos are lucky to live so close to.

Thanks to Blogie of Blogie Blog, I got wind of an entry by Jai on Blog, Oh Blog (B.O.B.) announcing a contest honoring WordPress’ Fifth year anniversary where one gets to blog on THE contest.  Okay, it’s like this:  it is a contest that requires participants to blog about the contest. I know I’m being circuitous here, but just read B.O.B. to get a clear grasp of the mechanics. 

The B.O.B. contest outcome:  Five winners of Five premium WordPress or B. O. B. Themes for their blogs. Plus: One lucky winner will have the rare privilege of having their blog reviewed on B.O.B.—a US$300 value you may get for free just by blogging about the contest.  Good deal, isn’t it? 

Nay, it’s irresistable!  For someone who has been maintaining a free blog space on a free WordPress theme, who has been (silently) complaining about the limited possibilities of being CSS-deprived, a chance at having a paid-for PREMIUM theme is something definitely worth vying for.  Well, not that I’m a pro at CSS codes; I usually learn the codes as needed.  But anyway, the good thing about having a premium theme is to be able to modify your blog according to one’s own whim. And that’s a sure-fire way to take my blogging experience a notch or two higher than the current lackadaisical.  If I should win, I will certainly consider purchasing a premium space on WordPress.  It’s about time, perhaps, that this blog gets the much needed facelift it deserves. LOL.

So, there goes my ticket!

The first beach wedding I attended took place on Sunday, May 25, 2008, at the breathtaking Isla Malipano, a short boat ride from The Pearl Farm Resort. Isla Malipano is the “luxury island” of The Pearl Farm, hosting the resort’s luxurious villas, and is a 10-minute boat ride from the Pearl Farm “mainland” on Samal Island.

The couple, Ben a young and renowned Photographer in Davao City, and Arden of the Lim Family of Toril and a photography enthusiast herself, made the wonderful choice of holding their vow reaffirmation at the picturesque tropical island. Having been wed first in February 2008, the couple renewed their vows in a grand wedding ceremony I have previously seen only in movies.

The wedding took place at the island’s bermuda helipad, replete with a tulle-clad altar shed that had dangling lanterns and crystal embellisments. Sprays of yellow orchids and red composite flowers with brown vine and verdant leaf accents adorned the altar shed as well as the petal-carpeted aisle. The entourage, sponsors and guests witnessed the wonderfully solemn event seated in clothed chairs, which came equipped with complimentary buri fans. The outdoor spectacle unfolded slowly and beautifully with the lovely vocals of Voice Box, a group composed of Ateneo glee club members, serenading the congregation as the afternoon sun approached Davao’s horizon.

The groom, Benjamin Young III, unleashed his movie star appeal in a beige coat over a white undershirt, beige pants, amber-toned Burberry shades and leather sandals.  His bride, the beautiful Arden Lim, looked immaculate in her flowing white tube dress sprinkled with crystals and capped by a fluid veil that tailed a meter or so behind her on the petal-covered ground.

After the classic Kiss that concludes every wedding ceremony, everyone headed to the reception area just a short walk from the helipad.  Set on the white sand beach of Malipano within view from the island’s villas, the “party area” hosted a tulle-festooned gazebo for the couple adorned with dangling crystals and the familiar yellow-and-red flower ensemble on its crest and on the surrounding sand.  Overhead throughout the place were pendant spherical Japanese lanterns set on wires, and elsewhere were capiz lamps set on bamboo poles.  The guests’ and sponsors’ tables were covered with white cloth then topped by shimmering organza and lit by yellow bulbs from underneath.  All tables were decorated with centerpieces of yellow orchids, red composites, roses, and woody vines, aptly interspersed with seashells, sand and white pebbles.  The very long banquet table, as well as the wet bar and serving stations, were covered in white cloth and decorated with tropical flowers, and lighted from above by capiz lanterns on bamboo poles.  The table bearing the three-tiered fondant cake sported a pleated gold cloth.  Apart from flaming torches, flags and banners, the dancing lights, multi-colored spotlights and two huge projector screens added visual oomph and pizzazz to the seaside affair. 

The food was splendid and abundant, pushed down by a variety of sparkling wines, Blue Label whiskey, soda, and fruit juices.  During the banquet and throughout the program, the wonderful vocals by the group Voice Box intoned familiar love tunes, alternating with lively beats by a hired drum ensemble mixing percussions with techno and trance.  The bride awed everyone with her beautiful voice when she sang for her husband during the program.  I learned later from Mr. Jeremie Sarmiento of Voice Box that Arden was a compatriot of his in the Ateneo Glee Club.  The party reached a fitting climax with a glorious display of fireworks.

The festivities rolled deep into the night, with nary a raindrop falling from the clear sky.  The techno-and-percussion numbers by the “band of drummers” heightened in an effort to rouse the beach people into a dance frenzy.  I found myself dancing with my sister and cousin, as well as with the Best Man, Mr. Leo Geraldo, and my “kulit” nephew, Boogs.  A few flutes of Chamdor and a shot-and-a-half of Blue Label later, I was a little woozy but carried on with my “subdued” dancing style. 

At around 10 PM, Realizing that most of the guests have departed for Davao City, or to their nests in “mainland” Pearl Farm, I signaled to Leo that it was probably time to call it a night.  I was a little hesitant, though, because the “band of drummers” was still at the beating.  Anyway, we approached the groom, Ben, near the bar to bid our farewell before I retire to my family’s villa and Leo to his casita in Pearl Farm.  To our delight, Ben handed over a shining bottle of Blue Label and two cans of coca-cola, which we more than willingly accepted.  We headed to Villa No. 6 and emptied our loot with some help from my dad and my brother.  Leo then bade good night after summoning the 24-hour boat service that would take him back to Pearl Farm.

My first beach wedding was made for the movies, and that lasting impression etched on me as a sort of standard that all beach weddings after it will have to measure up against.  This one would be tough to beat. Congratulations, Ben and Arden!

I received confirmation Tuesday, 13 May 2008, that a story on the origins of the Waling-waling which I wrote will be featured in the June 2008 issue of Mabuhay Magazine, the inflight travel and leisure publication of Philippine Airlines.  Miss Ira of Eastgate Publishing, the official publisher of Mabuhay, told me on Tuesday via E-mail that the June 2008 issue of the magazine is already being printed in Hong Kong and will be ready for release on the first day of June.  That piece of good news got me all giddy and excited not so much because of the check (which will contain something nowhere near substantial) but because I have never thought that I will find my name in a magazine of which my family and I have been avid collectors for years. 

The June 2008 issue of Mabuhay Magazine will center on Davao as its main feature, and knowing that my story is part of it makes me feel incredibly thankful and blessed.

The story, “The Legend of the Queen Orchid” (alternatively, “The Legend of the Waling-Waling” or plainly, “Waling”), an original legend I wrote in 1998, is part of a collection of writings which I uploaded to my websites some 10 years ago.  I remember back in my college days, way before “blogging” made its way to Netizen parlance, I created  websites on Geocities and Fortunecity (with versions in English and Bisaya), which were free web-hosting sites that provided free web space (something like 15MB—you got that right!—back in the day) and TONS of ads.  

Like a true novice, I crammed everything in my pages as I saw fit: lots of multi-colored text, gif files, jpeg and (the still novel and crude) CSS, photos of my watercolor paintings, song lyrics and midi files, my college essays, project papers, and published articles (SunStar Davao). The result: pure, untrameled clutter!  Now that these websites are old, dried up, fried and forgotten, I never really, REMOTELY, thought anyone would still be looking at them after ten full years of dereliction.  In fact, I thought they have already been deleted for reasons like sheer outmodedness and lack of taste!

Luckily, an executive from Eastgate Publishing found one of these websites (I didn’t really ask which one they found, but I am making a very safe assumption here), and found “Waling.”  There must be a real lack of literature on Philippine orchid folklore because to date I have never read or heard of any “official” Lumad legend on the Waling-waling (Vanda sanderiana), the Queen of Orchids and one of the symbols of Davao City.

Again, safely assuming that the executive made another Google search, this time on my name, she found my mobile number in a Travel Agency ad or Call Center website (presumably).  Thanks to The Almighty I haven’t changed numbers since 2004! 

So, Ms. Ira called me up, much to my matutinal (that is, early morning) suprise and told me of her discovery, offering to publish the story in Mabuhay Magazine for a fee.  I replied with something like an enthusiastic “OK.”  Then she told me further to cut the verbosity of my work to the vicinity of 400 words. I paused a bit, but couldn’t refuse the true honor of having my name printed in precious Mabuhay ink, so I said “OK,” careful to mask any hint of hesitation.

After two days and smoky hours on my laptop laboring to reduce a 3,873-word epic down to a stupendously measly 400 words (while genuinely risking loss of thought and storyline), I finally e-mailed the text to Ms. Ira, who replied the next day without any complaints (thankfully!).  She however additionally requested for a third-person, 30-word blurb about me, which I promptly accomplished the day after.

I was told there would be illustrations on the story (which, as I requested, should be in the Lumad Bagobo flair), but that remains to be seen (Well, I can always e-mail Ms. Ira about that, but I don’t want to be such a pain.  You see, now that I have hit first base, I’m seeking further exposure by becoming a regular freelance contributor to Mabuhay! Ha!).  Whatever. The important thing is that I will find my story in THE Mabuhay Magazine, in ALL Philippine Airlines planes, on ALL Mabuhay Class seats, on ALL domestic and international flights this June!

I don’t know if it’s brag-worthy, but hey, my name will soon fly all around the world!   

It’s summer once more and the quintessential getaway this time of year consists of sun, sand and a sparkling shore. To those who may have had a fill of full-day stays at resorts and beaches, a little variety couldn’t hurt.  To make things a tad more interesting, add up a boat, lifevests, and perhaps ice-cold drinks and Lechon, some snorkelling or scuba gears or an optional kayak, and you are on your way to extreme summertime bliss.

 (Click Here for Info, Tips, Maps and Costing Guides)

In a place like Davao, located on the shores of the Davao Gulf and in close proximity to the many islands thereof, the tropical blessings of sun, sea, sand and shore are within an arm’s length away.  It is hence doubtless why island hopping is a staple summertime activity of many a Davao folk for ages.  What, with the many delights the Davao Gulf and its islands hold:  Pristine white-sand beaches, picturesque islets, ubiquitous coral reefs, marvelous limestone cliffs and caves, turquoise, emerald and sapphire waters, and friendly fishermen willing to give discounts on their day’s catch. Island-hopping, is a perfect way to discover these wonderful vistas in Davao’s lovely seascape.

It doesn’t cost a fortune to embark on an island hopping escapade in Davao.  For instance, basic island-hopping packages for 20 persons start at around Php 15,000 (USD 370 at USD 1 = Php 41)—so that’s around Php 750 (USD 18.50) per person—and already includes full-day boat rentals, packed lunch, five snorkelling sets, a kayak or mini-boat (banca), and complimentary bottled water for everyone.  For starters, this isn’t bad at all, cheap even, because you can always bring additional food and drinks on board to your liking.  Of course, you can always add some variety, still without losing a fortune.  An interesting (and I would say, sumptuous) addition would be a Davao-style banquet on board: Lechon, pansit, grilled fare of bangus, panga, tuna, pork and chicken, puso rice,  fruit basket of pineapples, mangoes, pomelos, bananas, lanzones and rambutan, and lots of ice-cold drinks.  Hey, that sounds like a lot, but in a place like Davao, that hardly burns a hole in your pocket! 

But there’s really no stopping you from foregoing commercial Island Hopping package rates and making your own Davao Gulf package for your group to save you money.  So, If you have some time, you can go straight to Santa Ana wharf and find boats available for rent and make arrangements. You can then prepare your full-day itinerary while making a trip to the market for the meals on board.  There’s a lot of moolah saved this way, maybe Php 5,000 off the commercial tag price for 20 persons.

You can also opt for more luxury for a little extra cost.  Our family on March 22, 2008 rented a 90-capacity boat (with only 20 of us coming aboard) for Php 9,000.  This monster boat came with a mini-boat and snorkeling gears.  We brought our Davao-style banquet on board along with lots of ice-cold beverages and some wine, and took off to our full-day cruise-like island getaway from Santa Ana wharf.

The slideshow above contains a selection of photos taken on our island-hopping adventure in Davao Gulf.  You may view the Island-hopping photo set by clicking here or the first picture on this post.

From Santa Ana wharf, at around 8 AM, we cruised straight toward Samal Island’s little neighbor, Talikud Island where the famous Coral Garden is situated. Arriving at around 9 AM, We snorkeled and swam in the sparkling waters of Coral Garden, delighting in acres upon acres of rich coral reef and spectating on the beautiful sea creatures that abound therein. 

In Coral Garden, we spotted a fisherman in his boat.  We summoned the fisherman and asked what bounty he has brought the hungry “boat people.”  He politely pointed to his early morning haul contained in a wooden box.  Inside were several jiggling parrot fish indicating that they have just been pulled from the bountiful sea nearby. “Tag pila, Noy?” (“How much?”), asked one of our boat’s crew to which the fisherman responded beyond my hearing range.  Negotiations ensued and apparently the fisherman was amenable to a discounted purchase of his catch.

Fish grilling in the back of the boat, we headed to nearby Babusanta Beach, with its beautifully ruined pier, then partaking of our early lunch (around 10 AM) on board the boat.  Babusanta is a 15-minute cruise from the Coral Garden. There, we rented one of the cottages lining the beach for only Php 200 where we lounged and lazed about after taking our lunch in the boat.  There’s a good deal of people on Babusanta, it being the favored “lunch beach” of island-hopping vacationers.

After Babusanta, our next stop was to be Isla Reta Dos on the southern tip of Talikud Island.  This beach is known for its huge limestone cave and forested cliffs, apart from its beautiful white pebble beach and coral-laden environs.  On the way south on the coast of Talikud, we trailed past several kilometers of limestone cliffs, some with little caves, a beach with a very wide and long stretch of white sand, and then a small, albeit lonely lighthouse which was the only man-made structure on that part of the island. In all 20 minutes of travel, the Talikud coast was lined by coral reefs of varying density. Oh, that’s the paradise called Talikud Island. We reached Isla Reta Dos and spent a good deal of time thereon, it being my Dad’s favorite spot on Talikud.  There, we took time to snorkel some more, swam, went boating a fair distance, and explored the cliffs and the famous cave.

Our next destination was the islet called Wishing Island near the world-famous Pearl Farm Beach Resort and the luxurious Malipano Island: a first-class island resort frequented by the well-to-do, as well as by local and international celebrities.

Leaving Isla Reta Dos, we found the Samal Casino Resort, which is rumored to re-open after years of closure.  I remember visiting the place three times during its heyday, staying in one of the floating bungalows which were reminiscent of the casitas on El Nido in Coron Island, Palawan. 

Heading northward on Samal Island’s Eastern coast, we stopped by at Kaputian, a town in Samal Island with one of the most beautiful public beaches on the Island.  It has a wide, white-sand concave beach, which looks as good in pictures as it does in real life.  There is also a woodcraft and antique shop a short walk from the beach which is popular among tourists and vacationers who would like to cash out on unique souvenirs and crafts.

Moving on, we sailed past two resorts not far away from Kaputian’s beach.  First up was Kembali Coast, a resort subdivision being developed by Filinvest, one of the country’s largest real estate developers. Second was Samal Dream Resort, a Balinese-themed resort just beside Kembali Coast.  It looks like a lot of developments are being undertaken in Samal Island.   Now, I can find no reason why Samal Casino shouldn’t re-open anytime soon.

We inched further northward along Samal’s coast and found high, forest-topped seaside cliffs.  We found people diving 20 to 40 feet from the the lower cliffs onto the emerald water, which I believe is some feat reserved for the experienced diver or the death-defying novice.

Further, we found floating fishcages scattered near the Samal coast.  That moment I knew we were already in the Fish Sanctuary of Samal, where the Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR) maintains its fishcages for fish culture and studies.  This is a testament to the fact of rich marine diversity in the Davao Gulf.  It is therefore of paramount importance that the ecological balance of the Davao Gulf must be protected and maintained.

Not very far from the fishcages of BFAR (wow, it rhymes!), we found a group of nice buildings set on a rolling slope on Samal Island. Excited to approach its umbrella-lined beach, the boat captain complained saying the water was too shallow for our 90-capacity boat, and the we should use the mini-wharf a little distance back south.  Looking at the mini-wharf, my Dad was quick to change heart, thinking us and my small nephews had to walk the narrow, rail-less wharf catwalk hundreds of meters to the resort.  Instead, we asked one of the crew members to go ashore via mini-boat (banca) to get brochures of the resort.  We found out the name of the resort as Hof Gorei – a relatively new resort owned by a Filipina-Austrian. From the brochure pictures, it looked good.

From the waters off Hof Gorei, we could see the World-famous Pearl Farm Beach Resort and the Malipano Island (known officially “Isla Malipano,” perhaps to make it sound appropriately expensive).

After trailing past the Pearl Farm and Isla Malipano, we found our last destination: Wishing Island – a rock islet crowned by mangrove (?) trees and surrounded by a rich growth of corals.  There were around two other boats when we reached Wishing Island: one was filled with either Koreans or Japanese, and the other one hosted a Pinoy family.  “Samal Island and Davao Gulf developments spurred by international patronage,” went a phrase from my thoughts.

We reached Wishing Island at around 4 PM where we swam, snorkeled, dove some more.  Basking in all the excitement that the day had brought us, it was with much reluctance that we had to set sail back to Sta. Ana Wharf.  Arriving at the wharf at around 5 PM, we concluded our Full-day Full-quality island-hopping experience in Davao Gulf.  

Looking back now, a map of Davao Gulf in hand, it is only too clear that one full day of island hopping isn’t enough to unravel all of the pulchritude scattered throughout the wonderful Davao Gulf. 

See My Island-hopping Info, Tips, Reminders, Maps and Costing Guides

Yesterday’s experience can be summed up as
WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!

Monday, 17 March 2008, was declared a local holiday in Davao City (Araw ng Dabaw), so I and two of my friends plus one driver went on an adventure to a mountain resort in Kapatagan, Davao del Sur.

Nestled in the mountains 3,900 feet (around 1,200 meters) above sea level is Camp Sabros, a mountain eco-adventure spot that has been featured on national outdoor and adventure show, Sports Unlimited, and noted for having two of the country’s longest and craziest zip lines : 380 meters and 400 meters.

We parked our vehicle at the outpost guarding the Mt. Apo National Park and the Mt. Apo Mountaineering Trail before hiking uphill to Camp Sabros. Vehicles may be brought all the way up to Camp Sabros, but we opted that out. Trekking to the Camp is laborious but fun. It affords you ample time to enjoy the marvelous scenery on the way up. It’s a good exercise, too!

The trail we walked was a steep dirt track so that when we finally reached the entrance arch to the camp, we were all panting and sweating. But it was all worth it because the moment we stepped on the camp’s wide grounds, we knew that we were just inches from our Superman Adventure!

Another Entrance Arch

Pine trees dominate the landscape of Camp Sabros, giving it a Baguio-esque feel. This is another entrance to the camp.

Zip Lines and Cable Car

Marc Nelson and Dyan Castillejo of Sports Unlimited fame were here!

The safety of Zip Line riders is on top of Camp Sabros’ priorities. A system of harnesses and locks ensures a worry-free zip to the other mountain.
My friends take off to an exhilarating zip line ride – à la Superman (…err, Supergirls?) I and Don, the driver, followed shortly. Weeeee!!!

ZIPPEE!!!

The 380-meter zip line takes you from the Camp Sabros terminal and glides you 20 storeys high (around 200 feet) over a densely forested ravine/valley down to the terminal on the “other mountain.” A Cable Car brings you from the “other mountain” back to Camp Sabros. You have the option to “zip” back to the camp via the the longest zip line in the Philippines (400 meters long) but it travels at twice the speed. We opted to take the Cable Car instead.

Relax, Unwind in the Diner

Vintage decors and mementos adorn the walls of the diner. After the zip line and cable car adventure, we stayed at the deli to have some meals. We then had a little fun playing billiards and just hung around and lazed about.

Awesome Place

When one looks outside from the billiard hall at the diner, the scene looks like an American or European postcard.

I swear, the Camp Sabros climate was colder than Baguio’s! The scene looked almost surreal with thick fog enveloping the areas in and around Camp Sabros.

~o0o~

Helpful Info and Tips on Camp Sabros:

1. Travel Time. From Downtown Davao, around two hours.

* 45 mins to 1 hour from Downtown Davao to the junction of the National Highway and the road to Kapatagan.

* 45 mins to 1 hour from the National Highway uphill on the Kapatagan road to the Mt. Apo National Park Checkpoint.

2. Suggested Transportation.
* If you want to go all the way up to Camp Sabros, a 4-wheel drive vehicle/suv is recommended.
* You may bring any vehicle if you are willing to trek 1 km uphill to Camp Sabros. Just park your vehicle at the Mt. Apo National Park Checkpoint.

3. Location and Directions. Camp Sabros is at Kapatagan, Digos, Davao del Sur, Philippines, in the mountains 1200 meters/3900 feet above sea level. From Davao City, travel south on the National Highway en-route to Digos City. Upon reaching Barangay Cogon in Digos, you will see a Y-Road that leads you to either General Santos City or Kidapawan. Follow the Kidapawan Route (slow down from this point on and look to the right of the road). Before reaching the DASURECO (Davao del Sur Electric Company) compound, you will see a road on the right side of the highway with a sign saying “THIS WAY TO KAPATAGAN.” Turn right and from then on just follow the road to Kapatagan. When you reach the checkpoint to the Mt. Apo National Park / Mt. Apo Mountaineering Trail, the road to Camp Sabros is to the right and uphill. (I’ll make a road map and post it here soon.)

The road to Kapatagan consists of alternating segments of concrete and dirt roads of varying widths. Generally, the road is good and manageable, sometimes a little steep in parts. Sedans and small cars may be brought to Kapatagan but not up to Camp Sabros, which would require a 4-wheel drive vehicle. You can always park your vehicle at the Mt. Apo checkpoint and go on foot to Camp Sabros – a one-kilometer uphill hike. (tiring but fun!)

4. Suggested Clothing. The climate at Camp Sabros is cool and sometimes wet and rainy (at times colder than Baguio). A good, warm jacket or sweater is essential. Rubber shoes are a must especially on rainy days (and moreso if you decide to hike up and down Camp Sabros).

5. Overnight Stay. Fireplace-equipped Log Cabins that can accommodate 4 to 10 persons are available for rent.

* Php1,200 per night (good for 4 persons),

* Php2,000 per night (good for 10 persons)

6. Food and Drinks, etc.. You may bring food and drinks to Camp Sabros. The deli at Camp Sabros also serves food at affordable prices (P20-P50 per order!). The mini-store at the deli also sells instant food, chichirya (junk food) and other foodstuff, coffee and ice-cold beverages. Alcoholic beverages and cigarettes are also available for sale at the deli. Personal hygiene items are available at the deli store (sanitary napkins, soap, toothpaste, etc.).

7. Adventure, Entertainment, Amenities, etc. Zip Lines (380 meters and 400 meters – the two longest in the Philippines), Cable Car, Hiking trail. Picnic Tables, Wide Open Grounds, Cable TV, Billiard Hall, Deli/Diner, Bar, Bonfire, Souvenir Shop. Clean toilets, Running Water.

8. Communications, Electricity. Major cellphone carriers have good signals at Camp Sabros. My Globe phone was on full signal bars when I was there. There is electricity on Camp Sabros, with occasional but brief power interruptions.

9. Admission and Fees. No entrance fees, no corkage fees. Zip Line rides range from 150 to 300 Pesos per head. To sign up and pay for the “superman” rides, approach the lady behind the counter in the diner. You can even approach one of the owners, Mr. Edwin Sacdalan, who is very friendly and accommodating, and always ready to strike up a chat. I would suggest that you line up for the rides once you get to Camp Sabros. Queues can get real long on weekends and “peak” days.

*380 meters (zip 380 meters to the other mountain, then ride a cable car back to Camp Sabros)

(a) in pairs – Php150 per head
(b) solo – Php200 per head

*400 meters(zip 380 meters to the other mountain, then zip 400 meters at DOUBLE SPEED back to Camp Sabros)

(a) solo only – Php300 per head(THE LONGEST AND CRAZIEST ZIP LINE RIDE IN THE ENTIRE PHILIPPINES!)

10. Contact Number, Reservations, Times Open. @Kaspersky was too kind to supply the contact number of Camp Sabros. It’s 0920-875-0015 (+639208750015). Camp Sabros is open to day tourists from 8:00 A.M. to 5:30 P.M. daily.

If you have a story to share of your experience(s) in Camp Sabros, or if you would like to give your reactions, valuable contributions, corrections, suggestions, criticisms (keep ‘em constructive, pls.), et cetera, please feel free to post a comment or send me an email at the address below. Thanks!

~ by Brian Dexter Medija (bridex@yahoo.com)

~o0o~

I thought I had to share the wonderful pictures on my trip on Sunday,  February 24, 2008, to Bongabong, a town in Compostela Valley in the Philippines. 

Bongabong is blessed with (yellowish) white sand beaches, lush mangrove forests, and an idyllic and peaceful atmosphere. It is 2 to 2 and a half hours’ drive from Davao City, and is just on the road going to Central Pantukan, ComVal and Mati, Davao Oriental.

There are no established or developed resorts in Bongabong. The beaches are still undeveloped and are filled with spiny corals in parts, so it wouldn’t be advisable to walk barefoot in the water. If developed, the place would be as spectacular as any beach in Samal Island because, like Samal Island, Bongabong’s coast is lined with a yellowish-sand beach.

Enjoy!

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Bongabong’s Mangrove Forest

1. Mangrove Forest along Bongabong’s Coast

2.

3.

4. A small stream cuts through this part of the Mangrove forest.

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The Beach and views of Samal Island across the Davao Gulf.

5. The Northwest tip of Samal Island can be seen from Bongabong

6.

7. My sister poses on one of the rocks jutting from the beach.

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Bongabong’s Yellowish-sand beach is similar to those on Samal Island.

 
8.  Driftwood can be seen beached on Bongabong’s coast.  This one would cost a fortune when sold at the furniture shops in the City.

9.

10.

11.

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Fisherfolk “park” their bancas and launches on the Beach

12.

13.

14. “Swaki” (spelling?), a species of sea urchin, is eaten raw by local folk, and is a known delicacy in coastal regions. This sea creature is an easy find in Bongabong’s beach and coral rocks, especially at low tide.

by Brian Dexter M. Medija (bridex@yahoo.com)

Since my first post would coincide with the Kadayawan season in the Davao Region, Philippines, i thought it would be fitting to post a Legend which I wrote in 1998, published in Philippine Star in 2000 (they edited it too, shame), and published in the Philippine Orchid Society’s quarterly publication also in 2000.  To the uninitiated, the Waling-waling orchid (Vanda sanderiana) is one of the symbols of the Davao Region, having been discovered in the foothills of Mount Apo by a scientific team commissioned by Sanders in 1882 (hence the scientific name Vanda sanderiana).  I have reproduced the story in its entire, unadulterated, unedited glory, so pardon the grammatical errors and the prevalent cheesiness.

 WALING
The legend of the Waling-Waling Orchid (Vanda sanderiana)
by Brian Dexter M. Medija

The origins of the Waling-waling elude memory, yet its beauty continues to dazzle those that behold its splendid blossoms, even inspiring awe and wonder as to how such pulchritude came to be. The beautiful Waling-Waling abounds in Davao–on the lush slopes of Mount Apo, the grandfather of mountains.

On the banks of the upper Daba-daba, whose waters meander from the northwest bukids, a people headed by brawny Datu Musukul have set up village, called Dayaw. Musukul’s wife, Waling, gave brightness and beauty to the village.

The sun bled the Apo’s swollen brow, ducking silently behind the old mountain. Little children chased each other while the women shared laughs under the trees. The village’s men gathered for tuba to welcome the closing of another day of hardwork, having tied their kabaws or having brought home the day’s catch. Joyful sounds filled the air in the peaceful balangay.

Then suddenly, like thunder to a sunny day, a man’s loud shriek reechoed in the fields, and the laughs died into silence. A baffling scene greeted their eyes: a rushing horse driven by a man who went out hunting but brought with him not a baboy-halas or usa, but a man hanging limply on his horse.

A strange frenzy caught the village like a fever.

“Mighty Datu! Mighty Datu! A terrible thing has befallen on Ambungan!” cried the visibly shaken man, stumbling as he alighted from his horse. He knelt, breathing rapidly, his blooded hands staining the base of the ladder to the village chief’s house. He had been Ambungan’s mentor and hunting partner since the young man’s childhood.

Staying calm, though arrested by the assistant’s ominous words, the Datu came on his door to investigate. But before he could ask, he saw the man on the horse’s back. Lifeless. Unmistakable sorrow filled the chieftain’s face.

The dead man was his only brother.

“What is it, Hantik, what has happened to my brother?” His eyes stuck on the blood running down the horse’s brown hide–the same blood that filled his veins. It is the blood of their forefathers. A generation lost upon every drop that fell on the dust. Anger filled him.

The chieftain eyed the assistant’s blood-stained hands and chest and he clutched the golden necklace that Ambungan made and gave him for a present. Waling stood worried beside the Datu.

The assistant’s words drowned in his grief. “We were hunting usa near the foot of the Apo when a man attacked Ambungan!” Gasping as if drowning in his own tears, “I had gone down the stream to drink water and I was so far away I was unable to chase after the man.”

Then, looking up at the Datu, whose eyes have gone red in grief and anger, he added, “but I saw clearly… he was wearing a red band around his head… he took the catch and went deep into the woods of the Apo… and he was wearing a red band!” as if to make up for not being able to save the Datu’s only brother.

“Then, he is one of Makalisang’s men!” exclaimed the ever-composed Datu, whose eyes were sobbing, yet his noble stance never wavering. The Queen gasped at the realization. Makalisang’s men are known to wear bands doused in the blood of the people they have murdered.

“Makalisang, time and again you have betrayed me, you have repeatedly infringed into my territory, and now you have killed my only brother!” Musukul muttered to himself. He and Makalisang had agreed that the Apo be divided equally among them, the East side to Musukul and the West side–the other side, to Makalisang. “I have been forgiving to you and your men, but this blow is too much to bear. I shall never allow you to go scot-free this time!”

His left clasp tightened on the golden necklace until it bled, as his right grabbed his shining sundang, and he swore, “Makalisang, you shall pay with your own blood the life of Ambungan!” A bead of blood kissed the bamboo floor.

The people gathered outside the Datu’s balay were stirred. They had known of Makalisang’s reputation as a bloodthirsty warrior who knew no mercy in killing men, women, even children and razing whole villages to the ground. Women embraced their husbands, brothers, or sons–whose lives they will risk in their quest for Musukul’s vengeance. But they were not entirely against Musukul’s plans as they had their own stories to say of the savageness of Makalisang and his men. Many of them have grieved the loss of relatives and family members to this greedy people, and they have lost horses, livestock and valuables, too. And they grieve for Ambungan, whom they admired as a good gentleman who would sometimes help them tend the kabaws and even to daro on the fields or feed the manok when he wasn’t hunting or doing metalwork. The day had gone in grieving too, as the sun sank into the rugged horizon and darkness spilled all over the land.

Meanwhile, Ambungan had been lain on a wooden bed. Then, with a fiery torch, the chieftain lit the dead twigs packed under the bed. Not long after, fire licked the dead man’s body, and dark smoke carried his soul to the heavens.

Moving back into his high abode, the mighty Datu called for Admanun, the village sage and his most trusted adviser, and ordered that a hundred of his men prepare for their attack.

But Admanun shook his head, “Datu, you cannot force yourself to attack Makalisang’s camp, they can easily outnumber you, and you know how fierce they are to rival armies.” Admanun, as with the others, silently recalled the news long ago of heads being cut and placed on spears around bonfires as Makalisang’s tribe chanted all night long to their god, dipping cloth in a large tadyaw filled with the blood of their ill-fated enemies and wearing them around their heads.

Musukul answered, “Even I do not worry about my life. They have violated our pact and now killed my dear brother. I will make sure they pay with their lives for taking away my brother’s–and I will do that even if I had to die!” The fire outside his window burned further, as though it was his fuming rage.

“But it is too much of a risk, Datu. We haven’t had wars for so long and we are ill-prepared for another… and…,” glancing at the beauteous Queen who was silently sobbing, “and what about the Queen? And your children?” Admanun turned to Musukul, “will you be leaving them without the assurance of your return?”

The Queen embraced her husband, “Musukul, my love, I cannot bear to see you go and place your own life on the blades of death!” her beautiful eyes overflowed with tears.

“I have to fight for principles, Waling, I have to assert myself lest they continue to spread tragedy and gloom” Musukul said gently, embracing back the weeping Queen. “Besides, this is for the future, of our children and our people. If I must die, at least I have caused them enough injury to disable their army and thwart their evil scheme.”

The Queen was speechless, tears still pouring from her eyes, but she is filled with admiration for her husband’s heroic stance. Yet his loss continues to worry her. “You know Datu Makalisang is known for slaying whoever trespasses into their territory, and he does so without mercy! Please do not go, Musukul!” she begs.

“I know that. But they have repeatedly overstepped our borders, and stole our horses, our kabaws and manoks, they even killed Ambungan, along with many of our hunters and farmers.

If I had been as fierce, they would have long been banished from the world of the buhi into the realm of kamatayun.”

“Admanun, I entrust my wife and children to you, look after them while I am away,” Musukul told the old man, the latter showing his assent. “Musukul!” Waling could only cry.

His eyes looked far into the darkness, unmoving, as the fiery embers cracked in his ears, “I am fighting back, Waling, and there is nothing that would stop me from upholding what is right. Just wait, my Queen, with Bathala’s aid, I shall return. That is a promise.”

Musukul descended from the balay and joined the men, preparing for the journey to battle.

The moon had flown midway across the raven sky when Musukul and a hundred of his men marched into the thick forests on the way to the other side of the great mountain. The Queen sat by her window, watching tearfully as their torches faded gradually in the darkness, blending with the stars in the heavens. The trek to bloodshed would take five days.

But countless somber days have passed and no sign of victory or defeat has arrived in Dayaw. The Queen was intensely bothered and unable sleep as she had been since the Datu left. “At this time they should already have arrived from the battle,” she said impatiently to Admanun.

“My Queen, lose not hope, the Datu and the rest shall return,” he retorted, “let us wait a little bit more.” The wise man showed no worries, but inside, he feared the fate of the brave chief and his men.

And so did Waling. “I should find Musukul myself no matter what! Right now! I am infinitely worried about him. He could be sick in the forest from days of battle, he would need food and clothing. He would need the dahun for his wounds.” “Kugihana,” she called her young servant, “prepare some clothes, food and dahun, we shall go into the forest to find our Datu.”

“In honor of my promise to the Datu, I cannot allow you to leave, My Queen. You yourself have heard the words from the Datu’s mouth that I should never leave you and your children until his return,” Admanun defended his orders.

Waling acceded, and waited for her husband’s return. But all had been in vain. Two moons have now passed and still no word from her husband. Worry heightened throughout the peaceful balangay of Dayaw as it had been so long since the battle and many a life had been risked in the mission.

The Queen was sewing fine horsehair into a headdress, like the ones her husband wore, when a coal-winged creature landed on the garment, attracted by its beads, colorful like the flowers outside. Her attention swept aside from the work to the perplexing spectacle, she accidentally stung herself with the needle. The garment fell on the floor and the ebony creature flapped its way out the window. Waling glanced at her hurting finger and blood oozed from the wound. She eyed the dark creature, the forests in the background, and then the sobbing sky. She had made an important decision.

One cold evening, the queen had put one of her children to sleep, and, while the aging Datu Admanun lay in deep slumber, she crept down the balay and woke Kugihana. They quickly packed some food, clothes and dahun in a huge cloth, along with other things they needed, and tiptoed into the edge of the village. Then, taking a torch, they crept into the thick underbrush of the forest.

They snaked through the forest for days but they could not see any traces of the Datu or the army. But the Queen persevered. She and her trusted servant went deeper into the moist, dark forest, stopping only to rest.

In the peace of the forest, Waling could feel her emotions bursting from inside her. Tears rained down from her eyes as she moved around the forest shouting “Musukul! My love, answer me, where are you!”

They came upon a wide section of the forest, almost like a clearing. A small stream flowed nearby, boulders covered with velvety green moss were scattered on its banks, and a tall white-stemmed tree with lianas spiraling on its trunk towered way above the canopy, as if to command a view of the forest below. She gazed up to the tree’s body, and climbed it to have a better view of the forest, and hopefully to heighten the chances of finding her lost love. This terrified the young Kugihana, who could barely look as the Queen shakily clang to the giant vines embracing the tree. The top spread seemed to be a perfect place for viewing and so she nestled there where it was shady, moist and windy. She tied herself to the massive branches with ropes to keep her in place and to avoid falling. She sat there for a whole day, her eyes prowling through the lush canopy, her ears attentive for every rustle on the floor or among the trees. She was ever diligent in her mission to bring her husband back into her hands.

That noon, they have almost ran out of food and so Waling called from the treetop, “Kugihana, go and search for food. We cannot continue our search if we do not have food to keep us strong. Go to the bank of the Daba-daba, I like the mangoes there.”

“But, my Queen, the Daba-daba is so far away it would take me long to come back here. I cannot leave you that long!” the servant worriedly complained.

“Speak no more. Go and do as I say. I have enough here to stay on until the morning. By then you should already be here,” the beautiful Queen said.

And so the servant traced back the route to the river. She is baffled by the words of the Queen. There seems to be something strange going on, she thought. Why mangoes? Why that far? True, the Queen favors the mangoes grown on trees by the Daba-daba, in fact she eats them all the time. But she also eats other fruits like the bayabas or kapayas, even the lomboy and the pungent duryan–and they are plentiful in the forest nearby.

But she could not defy her master. “The Queen has her reasons, she is a smart woman and everything she does bears a purpose,” the servant told herself to dismiss the thought and walked on.

While the faithful servant was away, Waling prayed to Bathala like she had never prayed before. She closed her eyes, now blackened by her sorrow, as tears formed rivulets on her cheeks, and prayed. “Almighty Bathala, bring back my beloved Musukul. Guide his path into my arms so he will fulfill his promise and make my life complete again. I will never be at ease until I see him. On these branches I shall nestle, all my life if need be–and beyond, until I see him trudge towards my arms. Let not my efforts be put to waste.” She went on praying through the twilight.

Meanwhile, it was almost dark and Kugihana had gathered mangoes from the trees on the banks of the upper Daba-daba. But she had grown weary from the long trek downhill from the forest and sore after many a fall from the huge mango trees. Stumbling under one of the trees, and, lulled by the cool breeze, her own weariness conquered her and she succumbed to sleep.

At dawn, the Queen’s mournful sorrow reverberated through the forests of the Apo while sooty clouds gathered overhead, as if to join the aggrieved woman. The sky turned gray, concealing the rising sun, the cold wind blew as thunderclaps crackled in the heavens scaring the raindrops from the clouds, as though they were Bathala’s voice.

A lone raindrop kissed Kugihana’s eye, prompting her to awake. But when she opened her eyes, she saw that it was already dawn–the male fowls have intoned their matutinal chorus, as the leaves above her seemed to clap in rave. But it was no time to laze about, as she realized she had fallen asleep when she should have returned to where her master was. She quickly rose, gathering the golden fruits she had reaped the afternoon before, and braved the intensifying rain as she penetrated the forest’s thick undergrowth.

“How foolish of me! How could I!” she scolded herself as she cut through the bamboo grove. “The Queen is short of food and there I was sleeping! Forgive me, Bathala. Forgive me, Queen Waling!”

The rain had grown furious, and the winds had gone harsh. The forest, proud and impenetrable, shuddered at the sudden wild weather. The heavens burst in thunderbolts, and lightning flashes overwhelmed the sun, already choked by the somber clouds.

“Now, even Bathala is mad at me,” Kugihana whispered in fear, trembling under the leaking roof of the forest. “Oh Queen, scourge me, punish me. I deserve your blows. But cast me not away, I shall desire to be with you in your quest and to be of service to you, both as recompense and conviction” she muttered to herself.

The young servant did not realize the speed she went through the forest; neither did she sense exhaustion. It seemed her guilt caused her sinews to numb from weariness. Her speeding legs brought her to where the giant, white-stemmed emergent stood. Then suddenly, the storm ceased, the winds were silenced, the lightning vanished and the quaking canopy lay still. And the sun emerged from behind the clouds, casting rays through the canopy.

Kugihana sensed that she had reached the place and stopped at the very foot of the tree. It it was still cold and dark. A steady, cool current brushed against her face, and, as soon as she directed her eyes skyward, she could all but drop the cloth in which the fragrant fruits were placed. Speech refused to escape her mouth. It was for what she was beholding.

The Queen was not there but her eyes beheld something as lovely as the missing queen–a strange plant in full bloom.

“So beautiful… splendid,” Kugihana was captivated by the strange plant. It had huge, radiant flowers clothed in the color of the Queen’s garments, and it had dark lower corollas, like the Queen’s mourning eyes. The blossoms were firm and sturdy, watchful and unwavering like the Queen. And it had roots that look like they had been tied to the tree trunk, much like the ropes of the missing queen. Kugihana was staring motionless for a long time. It was as if she was beholding the Queen herself.

The great bird’s moan resonated through the cavernous section of the forest to awaken her from the trance. And, as soon as the creature perched beside the unusual blooms, talons bearing a struggling creature that a while ago nibbled on her mangoes, blood rushed into the lady’s veins arousing her into frenzy.

“Oh! The Queen!… I must find her!” Kugihana inched farther from the tree, but still glancing at the beauty perched on its highest spread. Looking away, she searched the bushes and rocks and trees, while shouting, “Waling, my Queen! Answer me, where are you!”

Kugihana searched for two days but she could not find her Queen. Her guilt fueled her aching muscles to search through the treacherous thickets and scurry around the littered floor. And in her search, she kept returning to the giant, liana-hugged tree and could not resist the temptation to look above at the glorious sight. Each time the resplendent

blooms crossed her sight, her guilt would fade away and she is taken into a trance until yhat bird yells to awaken her.

One morning, shaken off anew by the great bird from the trance, she decided to seek help from the village.

With amazing speed she traveled through the dense rainforest reaching the village in two days in a trip that would normally take three or four. Stumbling upon the village entrance of Dayaw, Kugihana called wearily unto the village elder. “Datu Admanun! I have come to seek help! The Queen is missing, please help me find her.”

Her anguished moan reverberated through the fields. Frenzy caught the village like a fever.

Distraught and laden with guilt, the servant kept blaming herself, “I am to blame for the queen’s loss! I left her atop that tree, all alone and short of food!”

The medicinal herbs pierced deep into her bleeding wounds, onto her swollen flesh, yet this pain pales to that which throve inside her heart. “This is all my fault!” These words kept gushing out of her lips like a prayer-chant, and the pain that was in her heart engulfed the entire village.

When she was better, the village sage, face wrinkled by age and sorrow, approached the pained maiden. “Kugihana, we have searched for many days in the forests around the village but we could not find you and the Queen. We are deficient in means and in strength, and I am burdened by age, so I ordered to stop the search.” Only a few men were left in the village and these men were the weaker, older ones, since the ablest hundred have taken off with Musukul.

Shaking his head, he quipped in mourning, “Now, it seems, my wisdom fell off with my hair.” Then tears begin to gather in his weary eyes. “Had I not ordered a halt, we might have found you, and saved the queen from loss.” Tears spilled down the old man’s crumpled cheeks. Infectious grief filled the room.

The frail servant says, “Datu Admanun, let us not lie here wailing. Let us seek out into the jungle, I remember the very spot where I had left the Queen. It is a white-barked tree, the tallest I have seen, and on its highest spray, on which the queen had been sitting, a strange bloom nestles–and it had the most beautiful flowers I have seen.”

Nodding, while inching to prepare, the sage ordered all the able men of Dayaw to ready themselves for the search. Shortly after, they had begun the trek to Waling’s nest, led by Kugihana.

A few days passed and they reached the place. Kugihana pointed at the unusually large tree hugged by sinewy vines, “That is the tree! The tree where the queen perched!”

And they all looked, awed by its sheer size, and, tracing the snaking vines skyward, they were awed the more. Something so strange yet so beautifu greeted their eyes. They beheld the flowers which Kugihana had seen the morning of Waling’s loss.

Their faces brightened, as though they had seen the queen at last. But the great bird moaned at its mate and took off from among the trees, and the people’s faces awakened to the reality. The queen was not there. And their eyes roamed to the neighboring trees. They were astonished.

On almost every tree was the same plant, abloom. It looked like some unseen hand had deliberately placed them on those steep branches. Eyes blackened by grief, their heads ever attentive, it seemed the flowers were looking for something.

This led Admanun to force words out of his stubborn mouth, “What spectacle! What beauty!”

His wisdom returning, he added, “We will never find the queen. But these flowers remind us of her, aggrieved by the loss of her husband and searching untiringly for him.”

“We shall name these flowers Waling-Waling, for they remind us of the queen.”

And so it came to pass and nothing was heard again of Musukul and his troops, nor of Makalisang and his fabled savageness. And the flower, named after the queen, flourished in the forests, just as peace flourished in Dayaw.

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Glossary

baboy-halas – a wild boar
balangay – a baranggay or village
balay – a house, usually on stilts (or on trees) with walls and floor of bamboo and roof of cogon or palm.
Bathala – God, the Supreme Being
bayabas – guava
buhi – the living
bukid(s) – mountain(s)
dahun – leaf of a plant believed to have medicinal powers
daro – tilling the wet soil using wooden ploughs dragged by buffalo
duryan – a spiny pungent fruit whose seeds yield sweet pulp.
kabaw(s) – carabao, or native buffalo
kamatayun – death
kapayas – papaya
lomboy – duhat in Tagalog (not sure about its English translation)
manok – a fowl, chicken
sundang – a knifelike metal weapon with handles made from buffalo horns
tadyaw – a huge earthen jar used as receptacle
tuba – a strong native beverage from fermented coconut sap
usa – deer
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