Dave's Travels - Both Near and Afar

The Backbone Challenge of 2012

2012-01-10T20:50:00.000-08:00

The Backbone Trail - Santa Monica Mountains
I am a firm believer that Los Angeles' greatest assets are its beaches and the Santa Monica Mountains. I have spend many many hours enjoying both of these great resources, with more and more time over the past 2 years spent hiking and trail running in various parks throughout the mountains.

Constructed in segments since the early 1980's, the Backbone Trail is a series of nearly interconnected (NOTE: NEARLY) trails that traverse 67 miles through the Santa Monica Mountains. Starting at Will Rogers Park in Pacific Palisades, adventurous hikers, runners, cyclists, and horse back riders can cover portions of the trail to their hearts content. I recently came across information about a group of trail runners who will be covering the trail by foot over 4 weekends this Winter, and the National Parks Service offers an 8-week series of guided hikes covering the trail system.

The Challenge:
Over the past year, Tony has been mentioning wanting to put together a run to cover the entire 67 miles of the trail in one day. So when he mentioned it again as a challenge for 2012, I immediately said yes. A few bloggers have detailed their day-long journeys along the trail, and I immediately was attracted to a challenge that so few have completed.

Over the next few months, we will trace the route and build our strength - hiking the trail in segments, preparing ourselves physically and mentally for the day when we will take on the entire trail.

Training Hike #1: Kanan Dume Rd Trailhead to Yerba Buena Trailhead
Fast forward 7 days. January 8th was set for our first training hike. At first we agreed to a 5.5 mile segment that heads West from Kanan Dume Rd. But the idea of an out-and-back hike was unappealing to both of us, so Tony selected a one way hike from Kanan Dume to the Yerba Buena trailhead. Our handy blogger recap of the trail indicated that this segment was "around 13 miles". This section of the trail included segments marked "proposed trail" so we knew some approximation was in order. That's what preview hikes are for, right?

Sunday morning, we hopped in the car. Phil, recovering from a knee surgery, agreed to join in the training as a great way to quickly get back in shape. In no time, the 3 of us were at the Kanan Dume trailhead, camelbaks full, vague instructions in hand, ready to go.

Here are Tony and Phil prior to the embarkation of our adventure. I would have been in the photo, but aside from the numerous cars in the parking lot, there were no other hikers around to take a photo for us.

Off we went, Tony merrily leading the way along the trail. This 5 mile section of the trail was a clearly marked smooth fire road. Soon we warmed up and this January day's mid-60 degree weather could not have been better hiking weather. For miles at a time, it was easy to forget that we were just minutes from town in either direction....

As we approached the Mulholland Road crossing, the path flattened out and sweeping panoramic vistas greeted us. Tony continually joked that it might be dark or raining at this point of the "Big Day" so we better enjoy it now.

Coming up on the Mulholland Road crossing, we reached a fork in the road. Looking down, a makeshift directional sign pointed us to the left fork. Lesson #1: Do we trust our fellow hikers, or do we curse them later on?

The arrow trail led us over a quick hill and down into a fire station and a juvenile detention camp for girls. A friendly fireman pointed us up the road to the real trailhead exit and the main road. At this point, we had completed the first 5 miles of the hike, and after a little fumbling around, we found the trailhead to lead us to Yerba Buena.

The hours passed, we plowed along. This section of the trail was a beautiful wide fire road that went on - and on - and on. At one point, some friendly cyclists let us know that we were 9 miles into the hike. An hour to the car...or so we thought.

Two hours (and little detour caused by some confusion over a segment of "Proposed trail" that happened to cross Yerba Buena miles away from our car), we sighted the parking lot ahead where we had parked a second car to get us home. "Right over there" proved to be another mile or more, but soon we emerged into the parking lot - happily completing our journey in 4 1/2 hours.

Later that evening, as we all retreated to our various states of after hiking rest, Tony forwarded me an email from the trail running group who was covering the Backbone in 4 segments. According to their GPS estimates, we had covered 16.8 miles of the trail! A bit more than 13, but more reinforcement that our challenge is well within reach.

Over the next few months, we will conduct hiking previews of the remaining segments of the trail, while getting ourselves in proper shape to tackle all 67 miles at once. Phil will continue to train with us while deciding to either join us or to call us crazy and crew for us instead. Hopefully other friends will join in the adventure as we go. No matter how you stack it, this journey will be my greatest physical and mental challenge to date, and I can't wait to share it with you all. And we need really cool t-shirts as our reward!

Bring on the Backbone!

Top 11 of 2011 - #5 - #1

2011-12-30T20:43:00.001-08:00

2011 - What a Year! - Continued.
Continuing on with my remembrance of the mad year that was 2011, the top 5

#5 - Take That and Robbie Williams - Live at Wembley, London
March, 1996 - I made my first trip to Europe and discovered two things that I would enjoy to this day - Heathrow Terminal 3 and the group Take That. Since I first picked up my copy of Take That's Greatest Hits, their music along with the music of former group member Robbie Williams have been on my playlist non-stop.

Flash forward 15 years, for the first time, the entire 5 member group was reforming for a summer tour, including 8 nights at Wembley Arena in London. The shows conveniently fell on the 4th of July week, so I cashed in my miles and made a week of it.

This is by far the largest concert I have been to since seeing Wham! and the Pointer Sisters at the Oakland Coliseum way back in high school. Just sitting there watching close to 90,000 fans fill a stadium was a great experience, especially from my seats off in the corner under the awning - helpful given the downpour that greated much of the show.

The highlight was by far the chance to see Robbie Williams live, as he flew through a short set of his hits while flying across the adoring crowds. What a night!

Not familiar with Robbie Williams or Take That? Essential Robbie Williams album: Escapology; Essential Take That album: The Greatest Hits (1996).

#4 - Team Noah's Wish - LA Marathon 2011
In 2010, I ran the LA marathon for the awesome animal disaster services charity Noah's Wish. I was so moved by the idea of running a marathon for charity, that I jumped on board as Co-Coordinator of the Noah's Wish marathon team (aka, joined Catherine to make it a 2-person show). From comp lunches at the Hard Rock Cafe to planning sessions in Catherine's garden, we watched our ideas turn into a great marathon team.

From July to March, we planned and planned and planned, and were greeted by the smiling faces of 20 marathon runners who joined us on the big day for what has now been dubbed the "LA Monsoon 2011." Yet, enthusiasm never flagged, and between our marathon runners and our amazing 24 person 5-k fund raising team, we far surpassed our goal of raising money for Noah's Wish

One highlight was meeting many of our runners for the first time at the LA Marathon expo. Over 2 days, we made new friends and got to chat with runners that we had been virtually encouraging for months.

The dedication and hard work of our marathon and 5-k runners helped us to raise over $28,000 for Noah's Wish and in June we were named the Best Overall Charity of the LA Marathon! Not bad for a small team who's office was Catherine's garden and our inspiration was a constant supply of Malbecs, Zinfandels, and Barbera's.

In July, we kicked off the 2012 Marathon campaign and added the London Marathon to our list of fundraising activities! Can't wait to see how these turn out.

#3 - Vinoteque on Melrose
I was a huge fan of Cheers in college - something having a place to go that feels like home where everyone knows your name. This year, Vinoteque on Melrose became my Cheers. From the first time that Catherine and I met Ginger and Shawn for a marathon meeting, the people, the atmosphere, the great food, and the awesome wine made us never want to leave.

While we did eventually leave, I have been there at least a dozen times in the past 6 months, always confident knowing that a relaxed good time awaited. Whether it was holding our charity meetings, or bringing friends new and old to dinner, Ryan, Erin, and gang are always there with a hug and joke. Or in the case of December, an Ugly Sweater.....

Just when it couldn't get better, came the discovery of Vinoteque trivia night. Spending a Wednesday night in cutthroat competition with other tables to win a bottle of wine and come up with the best team name is the perfect escape from the regular routine.

The trivia team is now a monthly fixture, with the membership changing each month, but know that I am there with competitive Courtney fighting to take home the prize.

My favorite prize winning team name, when we were Lindsay Lohan's probation officers, complete with nametags and stickers courtesy of Catherine!

Vinoteque on Melrose
7469 Melrose Ave
Los Angeles, CA
(310) 860-6060
Open at 5pm Tuesday- Sunday

#2 - Surviving the Challenges of the Year
In between the good moments and memories of each year, life keeps throwing us challenges to make us stronger. This year had its fair share of real bummers. In addition to the way-too-early passing of my friend and co-worker Marianne, some of my friends lost close ones well before their time. And then there are those times when you just don't know how destiny is going to call it. In February, my mom went into the hospital to have a kidney removed, in hopes of finally putting to rest years of ill effects resulting from various medical treatments over the year.

After too many hospital admissions to count, many of them accompanied by my impromptu flights to and from San Jose, by Spring, there was some color in her cheeks for the first time in weeks.

While the road to recovery has not been easy, nor is it necessarily over, a high point in her recovery came at Thanksgiving when she determined to host Thanksgiving dinner for 18 - just because she should. So after running the Torrance Turkey Trot with Mary, I popped into the car, and 5.5 hours later pulled up just as the turkey was coming out of the oven - a surprise visit that made her day. Here's hoping to continued recovery in 2012. My brother and I joke that this little 4'9" woman will be roaming the aisles of WalMart long after we both are admitted to the retirement home.

And there are those whose near brushes really throw us for a loop. In October, Catherine went in for a "simple knee surgery" in hopes of getting into London shape for 2013, 48 hours later a blood clot threw Catherine and everyone around her into a life changing loop. How is that possible, given the impossibly glamorous pre-op photo that Catherine surely commissioned from a Vogue photographer.

Not the time or place for details, but I am thrilled to say on December 30th, I sat on a couch with Catherine and her husband Tony, plotting our adventures for 2012 over a cup of tea.

#1 - Friends
I am the first to admit I am very fortunate. I have a great job that rewards me for my hard work. I live in a wonderful city, and have created a world where I can enjoy what live has to offer, whether it is food, concerts, wine, travel, or my running. But none of these would mean anything without friends to enjoy them with. This year has been a particularly bountiful year, with friendships growing and several significant new friendships blossoming. I have always been selective and sheltered when it comes to making new friends, but the fact that this year I can add the names Courtney, Sharona, Christian, Ryan, Erin, Janae, Ginger, Shawn, Mel, Shannon, Allison, Mary, and several others to my list of people that I am fortunate enough to spend time with makes me the richest man in the world today. And this is in addition to Phil, Mary, Marilyn, Helen, Catherine, Tony, Chris, Katy, and other friends who I have known for years.

I dedicate 2011 to each of you, and look forward to sharing more awesomely great moments of 2012 with you. Happy New Year!

From Top to Bottom: Me, Courtney, Kristin, Sharona, and Christian at Vinoteque Trivia Night - AKA our Brady Bunch pose. Guess that makes me Greg.

Bulldog 25K L to R with Nadine, Ginger, Tony, and Catherine. Did I mention it was 106 that day!

With Ryan, the coolest and funniest guy - at Vinoteque.

At one of the too few dinner parties of 2011 - Humans: Phil, Catherine, Toby, Tony, and me. Canines: Eddie, Buddy, and Sydney. And NO we didn't break into an Adele routine that night, although I think I did promise Tony that I would complete another one of his crazy athletic challenges.

Top 11 of 2011 - #11-6

2011-12-30T20:42:00.000-08:00

2011 - What a Year!
What a year is no way to describe the past 12 months. My blog is just a glimpse into the crazy world that I have created around myself, and I am grateful for the life that I have worked hard to create for myself. I am not usually the reflective type, but this year has been so wildly varied, that I was inspired to create a best of 2011 list of my experiences this year.

#11 - Amalfi Coast
2011 was my first time in Italy since a whirlwind visit in 1996, and at 11 days was 3 times longer than my 1996 visit. To me, the visit really began as the tour bus passed south of Rome and reached a peak in the 3 days spent in Sorrento, Capri, and Amalfi. 3 hours in Amalfi, with its ancient architecture built into a rocky hillside, made me long for a week along the coast to explore the town, the villages, the hills, and this beautiful coast. Something to look forward to in my best of 2020......

#10 - Hampton Court Flower Show
I have been to the Chelsea Flower Show twice - both times were magical days exploring the best garden design that one could only imagine gracing their lottery winning estates. Since reading a Guardian article about the Hampton Court Flower show in 2009, I was eager to visit Chelsea's more relaxed, sprawling country cousin held on the grounds of King Henry VIII.

So this year, what better way to spend the 4th of July week then jet to London using miles and visit the Hampton Court Flower show? Nothing, not even an unseasonal English July downpour, could dampen this horticultural experience.

Wearing shorts and a not-so-waterproof jacket, I enjoyed a day of garden glory, quickly forgetting how wet my underwear were.. :)

And in fine Royal Horticultural Society form, a pitcher of Pimms was cheaper than 2 glasses of Pimms, so I shared my table and sipped my summer cocktail in the rain soaked grounds of England's great 16th century monarch.....

#9 - Plan B and Eliza Doolittle at the El Rey Theater
I love living in LA. Only in LA (or maybe New York) can you got to a small club to see some of the most talented musicians in the world performing to a crowd of 500. I have had the pleasure of seeing some of the most talented musicians of the last 10 years at local clubs, but nothing compares to seeing a hot new talent that you can only hope the world will come to love

One Tuesday, email from Catherine - "Tix to Eliza and Plan B at the El Rey." The El Rey is one of the best small clubs in LA. I had seen Eliza Doolittle on Graham Norton a few weeks before, singing her retro soul pop. A quick You Tube search of Plan B only brought me some rap music, but I said, What the Hey. And off we went.

Thinking we would leave shortly after the Eliza set, we bopped along enjoying the sweet jazz of Eliza Doolittle, sounding much better and fresher than her overproduced single. Then the lights went down on the main act, and were we unprepared for what came next......

Plan B. Blue eyed soul, the voice of Smokey Robinson, packaged with a hardcore rap roughness. Within moments, we were sold and an hour later, fans for life of Plan B.

Essential Track: She Said. Check it out.

#8 - San Francisco Half Marathon
I am a sucker for a good hook. From "No More Words" to "Gangter's Paradise" to "Don't Stop Believing - the Glee Version" - give me a good hook and I have the attention span of a drunk gnat. So after twice running the "Stadium to the Sea" I was ready to "Cross the Golden Gate Bridge" on foot. I wasn't about to sign up for another marathon, so when the San Francisco marathon dangled their 1st half marathon in front of me, I was sold.

So in July, I made my way up to perhaps the best organized major race I have ever experienced. From expert start line management to the Jameson's Irish Coffee at the finish line, I was enamored by the SF Marathon experience. So enamored, I am planning on running the full marathon on July 29th, 2012. If my calendar holds, it will be #10 for me........

#7 - Don Schlitz Live at the Casbah - Durham, NC
January was tough, February sucked, whole watches of winter are a blur. Yet the year moved on, and soon we were planning a major international meeting at work to be held at Duke University in North Carolina.

In the week that we would be in the Raleigh/Durham area, I searched the local clubs for entertainment to add some levity to the "Science of the Future." Then I came across the Casbah and Don Schlitz. Don Schlitz is a songwriter from Durham, NC, most famous for writing Kenny Roger's "The Gambler" immortalized in my Gen X brain from the Muppet Show:

You couldn't say "Kenny Rogers and the Gambler" fast enough and soon I was organizing a trip for a dozen graduate students and postdocs to see a songwriter in concert they had never heard of. Needless to say, Don Schlitz in concert was # 2 of my musical highlight of the year, and not just because we chatted about Gwyneth Paltrow.

The humor and humility in the show was enough to lift my spirits and awaken a whole new generation of music lovers to the gift of the songwriter showcase. It was a night we will never forget, even if we were greeted by a torrential downpour making our way from the show to the pub afterwards!

#6 - Catalina Eco Marathon
March's LA Marathon was my 8th marathon, and I had my eyes on #9 for a while. Catalina had been on my mind for 2 years, with the Eco Marathon tempting me with their lure of a trail marathon and the call of the buffalo. I waivered up until the day I won a free entry into the Catalina marathon. Within 24 hours, my ferry and hotel were booked for a November weekend of running the rustic trails of Catalina Island. Then came the rain, and the floods, and the re-routing, and the doubt.

But did I ever consider not running Catalina? No. So I layered up, and off I went on a cold November morning after 2 inches of rain blasted the trails. So I embarked on a lovely run in the clouds, easily completing the "Second Most Beautiful" marathon I have ever completed - after the 2010 Eden Marathon of course.

The highlight of the run, which took - if memory serves me - 24 oz coffee, 2 benadryls, 4 ibroprofens, 2 red bulls, 1 Sierra Nevada Ale to complete - was posing with the Biebster at mile 23.

I sang Oh Baby Baby Baby Oh - all the way home as I passed dozens of runners on my way to the finish line of #9!

Next Up: Best of 2011 - #5 - #1

Red Rock Canyon - Las Vegas, Nevada

2011-12-08T07:00:00.000-08:00

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area
The highlight of my recent weekend in Vegas was by far my all too brief visit to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

Located about 15 miles outside of Vegas (about 25-30 minutes drive, depending on traffic), the conservation area is a nature lovers heaven. For a small fee of $7 per car, you can enter the park and drive a 13 mile scenic loop that brings you close to the foothills of the sandstone mountains.

It was a clear day, so the red color variations of the rocks stand out both from near and up close. Since the park is located in the high desert, the lowest point is about 3500 feet above sea level, so I wasn't surprised to see remnants from the previous weekend's snow on the ground.

I would have loved to spend a whole day exploring the hiking trails, or doing some very basic climbing along the rocks. There are about 7 or 8 parking zones along the scenic loop from which you can explore. All around the valley, the mountains were full of climbers, and the scenic loop had dozens of cyclists and runners enjoying the route. Since there are few cars and the road is one way, it is easy to navigate the road by foot for those longer training runs.

At the visitor center, there are exhibits about the natural wildlife and fauna of the valley, including information about the local desert turtle. Anticipating my frustration at that evening's half marathon, I admit I took out a teeny bit of anger at the stone turtle. :)

If my travels bring me back to Vegas, I will definitely pack a lunch and my hiking shoes and head off on foot to explore the canyon more closely.

Next time you are in Vegas, step away from the casinos and enjoy this piece of natural beauty.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area
State Route 159
Approximately 15 miles from the Vegas Strip
Automobile Entry Fee $7
Annual Pass $30
Open Daily - Hours vary by season

Rock N Roll Vegas 1/2 Marathon

2011-12-06T09:37:00.001-08:00

Rock N' Roll Vegas 1/2 Marathon
Sunday, December 4

Several friends of mine ran the Rock N Roll Vegas run in 2010, and couldn't stop raving about how fun it was to run a race along the famous Vegas Strip. So this year, the organizers moved the race to nighttime in a bid to up the allure. Well the marketing paid off, and I signed up back in July. This race also marked my friend Ginger's 12th half marathon in 12 months, completing a challenge she had set for herself. Since we ran 5 of those races together, how appropriate to be there when she completed #12!

This was my first trip to Vegas in almost a decade, and I have to admit I had a really fun time, including taking time to visit the stunning Red Rock Canyon (next post). I anticipated a nighttime race on the strip with a projected 44,000 runners for the marathon and half combined meant that logistics would be rough, so I made my way to Mandalay Bay a few hours before the start time - plenty of time to watch the full marathoners leave the start gate.

The marathon diverts from the strip for the first 13 miles, rejoining the half marathon course shortly after the half marathon gun. All I can say is thankfully, I was not running the marathon, because 3 hr marathon runners coming face to ass with thousands and thousands and thousands of runners and walkers is surely a recipe for frustration and disaster.

After the marathon runners headed off, I made may way into the Mandalay Bay convention center to avoid spending any unneeded time in the 40-something degree evening. Aside from the throngs of costumed runners.....

the floor of the convention center looked like a runner's refugee camp.

Seeing how many were remaining in the warmth to the last minute, I decided to brave the cold and head to my corral. With 40+ corrals, I didn't want to miss my chance at getting to my spot in corral 6. 45 minutes was a bit long to wait in the cold, but time passed quickly and soon we were off.

The race went to hell pretty quickly for me. As an LA boy, I haven't had much exposure to cold dry weather this year, and I hadn't prepped my asthmatic prone lungs for the cold. This being an out of town race, of course I forgot to pack a few of my running essentials, such a benadryl to carry. I also opted for not wearing my camelbak thinking that water stations would keep me sufficiently hydrated.

Mile 1, the cold dry air hit my lungs like a ton of bricks and I was hit with an asthma attack like I haven't seen in a long time. I stopped running, pulled to the side and tried to calm my breathing while trying not to cool down too much. I almost considered popping into one of the dozens of drug stores on the Strip, but I kept moving forward. After about 10 minutes of start and stop, I was able to finally relax my breathing and resume running. By mile 5 my body and lungs were finally acclimated and I was able to plow on through the remaining 8 miles. The finish line couldn't come fast enough as I finally rolled across at 2hrs 20 minutes, my worst half marathon time since 1996! But I finished, as if not finishing was ever an option.

There is a ton of negative reaction to this year's race. Just peruse the Rock N Roll Vegas Facebook page if you'd like to share in that negativity. My overall reaction to the race was simply that there were too many runners in too small as space to make it an enjoyable experience. I made sure I was extra early to the run, and I got the hell out of Mandalay Bay as fast as I could after the race ended to try and avoid the crush that apparently hit a few minutes after I finished. Was it a horrible run? No. Would I do it again? No. Would I recommend it? Probably not. I have run so many small and medium sized half marathons that are well organized and provide valuable benefit to local charities, that I would rather focus on these runs instead of running an event that clearly is focused on sheer numbers of participants.

2 days later, my lungs are starting to return to normal. I have a few days to decide if I will run this year's Christmas run. Another of my friends is making this year's Christmas 5k her first run! How exciting. She couldn't have picked a better run for her first - local, well organized, and full of spirit.

My race calendar is now empty. I will let it stay empty for a week or two before I consider what lies ahead in 2012. More running? Oh definitely! As one t-shirt at the expo summed it up: "I run so I don't murder people." :)

Note: Forgive my lack of course pictures, but the nighttime setting with the casino lights just lent itself to crappy pictures. That with the throngs of runners made it hard to pull of for a quick shot, so I gave up shortly after the start line.

Ho Ho Ho - Santa in Training

2011-12-01T07:00:00.000-08:00

UPCOMING RACE:
Santa Monica/Venice Christmas 10K - December 10, 2011

It's nearly Christmas in Los Angeles, as evidenced by the nearly 90 degree temperatures registered in my backyard last Sunday. While we never know what mother nature has in store for us, I do know that it is time for one of my favorite runs - the Santa Monica/Venice Christmas run. This year's run will be held on Saturday, December 10th.

Last year, I joined the costumed masses and dressed up as Running Santa for the 10K. It was pretty darn cold last year, in the mid 40's in the hour leading up to the run, but that didn't slow anyone down. In fact my indecent exposure and the fog helped me to a great finishing time of 51 minutes.

Who knew Santa had such skinny white legs under those red pants of his! I'll be back out again on the 10th rocking the Santa Gear, so if you see me, say Ho! Here are just a few pics from last year to get you in the spirit.

No costume was too subtle, from socks to horns....

To ornaments worn on a running belt.

And who could ever say no to a traditional Christmas sweater.

Run Rudolph, Run.

There is still time to register!

Santa Monica/Venice Christmas Run
Saturday, December 10, 2011
10K - 7:30am; 5K - 9:15am
Startline: Ocean Park Blvd and Barnard Way, Santa Monica
Register at: http://www.christmasrun.com

Race proceeds go to benefit Partners in Malawi and Harvest Home

Italian Extravaganza - The Final Chapter: Saving the Best for Last

2011-11-27T17:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 8: Sorrento, Capri, Amalfi
Normally, as I near the end of a long trip, especially one 10 days or longer, I start to really long for the familiarity of home. But something magical happened in the last few days, we found a portion of Italy where I could truly spend triple the 3 short days that we had here. The last few days included visits to Sorrento, the Isle of Capri, and the Amalfi coast. These could have each been separate posts, but for the sake of wrapping up the journey, I will share enough of the highlights to give you a taste of why truly look forward to returning.

Sorrento
Located about 30 miles from Naples, across the Bay of Naples is the charming village of Sorrento. Before making the trip, I asked an Italian faculty member at work about Italy, and he described Naples as "lawless anarchy." While I am sure it is not that bad, the heart of nearby Sorrento is nothing but charming. Built high into the hillside overlooking the bay, the whole city is perched at the edge of the world.

Having been built primarily in the 1700 and 1800's, it is amazing how the roads are carved out of the limestone and the homes, hotels, and restaurants are built right on top of the bedrock.

The heart of the downtown is a series of winding streets. The main arteries of the pedestrian zone are overwhelmed with the typical tourist junk made in China, but veer down one of the many alleys, and you can find hidden restaurants, shops, and the occasional hanging fruit display.

Down one alley, I stumbled into the courtyard of a Franciscan monastery. This courtyard hosts concerts and art events, but you can also just sit in the peaceful courtyard and contemplate. Upon close examination, you can see that the two halves of this courtyard cloisters were built at different times, one section of the cloisters is constructed in the Gothic style of the 1300s (with pointed arches), while the opposite style was constructed in the later Renaissance neo-Romanesque style (curved arches).

They say that everyone has a twin, and it is very likely that we all had ancestors who looked very much like our modern selves. If that is the case, then my father must have been descendant from a long line of Sorrento winemakers. This figure carved into a public wall holding a wine barrel bears striking resemblance to my father, barrel included. :)

Capri
About 4 miles across the Bay of Naples from Sorrento lies the magical Island of Capri. Once a part of the Italian mainland, inhabitants on the island can be traced back to the time of the Egyptians and Etruscans. It was nothing but a pleasure to spend an all too brief day exploring the island, including it's main cities of Capri and AnaCapri.

The first stop is the town of Anacapri. After a wild bus ride up the "Mama Mia" highway (a ride that would have made Mr. Toad proud), from the center of Anacapri, you can pay 10 euros to take a chairlift up to the highest point of the island. While 3 of the 4 of us in our group were hesitant, we all hopped on our chairs for a 13 minute ascent to the top of the island.

After 10 days with 40 other members of our tour, it was pure heaven to spent 13 of the most peaceful minutes quietly hovering above the ground absorbing the surroundings.

The views from the top of the island were particularly stunning, with the winds bringing fog and clouds in to break the 80 degree weather that accompanied the rest of our trip.

Amongst the views, there is also time to capture a purely meta moment that allows you to see how Rod sees our trips much of the time - through his viewfinder :).

After the quick ride back down the mountain, it is easy to escape the crowds of Anacapri and wander through the center of town that the locals enjoy.

Of course peaking into the occasional courtyard to get a sense of how the locals in town live...

After leaving Anacapri, we made our way to the other main town - Capri. The center of Capri is swarming with tourists, but just a five minute walk out of town and you can take in the far side of the island in all its rocky wonder.

At the end of the 18th century, a wealthy resident of the island financed a stone pathway cut into the side of the mountain that allows locals to walk from the crowded town down to the ocean for a lovely swim.

There are great options for exploring the wonders of the island. If you are staying on the island, you can take to one of the many hiking trails. With less time available, you can opt for a 1 hour boat tour around the island for only 15 euros. Departing from the charming harbor, the boat tour is an awesome way to take in the island's beauty.

Amalfi Coast
Our last day in Italy was spent on a drive along the stunning Amalfi Coast. Although only 19 miles apart, the journey from Sorrento to Amalfi took nearly 2 hours due to the challenging winding roads carved into the hillside. I have never been so terrified and enamored by a view at the same time!

Halfway between Sorrento and Amalfi is the resort town of Positano. While we didn't get to go into town, we had some stunning views from the lookout above town.

I was just amazed at the houses built perched high above the rocky cliffs. There are hiking trails linking the towns together, and often on the main highway, we passed a garage built into the hillside with a trail leading either up or down to the main house.

The town of Amalfi is a hidden little gem that I could have spent several hours (if not more) exploring. The narrow winding streets are built right up against the looming mountains behind, providing a sense of a town nestled into nature.

Wine shops, cheese shops, and little specialty vendors radiate out from the main tiny town square. Follow the main road out of town into the hills to visit the Paper Mill museum - just beware of flash flood rains (I speak from experience).

Each town along the coast has it's own local nativity scene built into one of the town's stone outgrowths. There is a competition each year between towns to the most elaborate nativity scene.

Much like the Sea Bass dinner kicked off the trip, it was a sheer treat to indugle in a fresh catch of the day stew at a local restaurant as our last group meal. The fish was beyond tasty, and the broth had a light spiciness that helped offset the damp from being in the rain.

And so it comes to a close. 12 days in Italy capped off by a 2am wake up call, followed by flights from Naples to Rome, then Rome to LA. Soon it was back to life but I was left with a number of highlights that will stay in my memory for a long time to come. I already have a more direct trip to the Sorrento/Amalfi area mapped out in my head, one that will allow time to truly explore these areas and partake in several days of nature hiking as well.

Arrivederci Italia.

Italian Extravaganza - Part 7: Pompei

2011-11-26T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 7: Pompei
After spending 2.5 days in Rome, a city which is modern in all the wrong ways, I am thrilled to express how much pleasure I found in the next city on the itinerary - the lost city of Pompeii. The chance to spend a few hours exploring truly ancient ruins quickly erased the feeling of a modern city built up around (and often obliviously) to the ruins of the past.

Pompeii as a city dates back to about the 6th century BC, and only became a part of the Roman Empire in 89BC. Between joining the Empire and its burial by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79AD, the city was only part of Rome for just shy of 170 years, but the imprint of Roman life is still clearly present in this town that was home to 20,000 residents.

Covered completely by ash and lava, the city remained a secret until the 1700's when excavations began to uncover a city that was largely preserved in its native state. Over the next 250 years, excavation has continued, uncovering more and more of the city. What was most astounding to me was how large the town within the city walls was. Used to visiting ancient monuments that occupy the site of a modern street corner, in Pompeii you can spend hours walking the streets and still not cover the portion of the town open to visitors.

It's not possible in the space here to highlight all the wonders of a 2,000 year old Roman city. From the paved cobble stone streets that include built in bridges for crossing in floods to the original public fountains that still function to this day, what ancient architects and engineers were able to design simply astound our modern, decidedly more "simple" minds.

The highlight of the day was the exploration of a full size Roman Villa. Upon entering the front door into the inner reception area (complete with an open roof to collect rain water in a fountain/cistern), I felt like I was transported back to the time of Spartacus. Portions of the original plaster murals still grace the walls.

The inner heart of the villa was the courtyard, which was surrounded by rooms to house the bedrooms, living areas, the bathrooms, and the offices. The layout if infinitely more civilized than our modern construction.

The city is in various states of restoration, and it is so much fun to stop and take a peak at a dark alley that most people can walk by without notice. This side street might have led to a row of homes and shops, but today is simply a moss covered stone alley.

Our journey through the city included a visit to a Pompeii brothel. Much less glamorous than a Hollywood ideal of the Chicken Ranch, the brothel was a small inconspicuous building from the outside - albeit one that was located across the street from an ancient hospital that conveniently had a service counter across the street from the brothel entrance. The women who worked in the brothels were all slaves who must have had short and painful careers. What was amazing were the "menus" that adorned the wall in the lobby, allowing for the Pompeii visitor to chose his pleasure of preference from a picture - reducing the complications of pesky language differences.

Our tour guide wisely led us through the town in a roundabout manner, saving our entrance to the main town square as the last portion of our visit. The brilliance of this strategy is to allow us to become absorbed in the reality of living and navigating this city of winding streets before absorbing the reality of the "outside world." The second you enter the large town square, which rivals Moscow's Red Square in size, you cannot help but notice Mount Vesuvius - 5 miles away - looming over the town. This breathtaking vista was what proved to be the mass murder of this entire town's way of life when it erupted in 79AD.

During the excavation of the city, archaeologists discovered hollow indentations in the hardened ash which the learned represent the shapes of the bodies of those who perished from the aftereffects of the eruption. Plaster was piped into the hollow zones, and upon hardening revealed the state of those who were lost at the time of their death. Some amazing plaster casters exist of people in the painful final stages of their life. What struck me most about this collection of artifacts - human and otherwise - is the downright practical way that some of the Pompeiians are stored in their afterlife - on a shelf next to examples of Etruscan potter and decorative support pillars.

Pompeii is located about 30 minutes outside of Naples, and is reachable by train from Naples and Sorrento. If you are spending some time on the Sorrento/Amalfi area, definitely add a day to your itinerary to explore a truly ancient wonder.

Next Stop: Sorrento, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast

Italian Extravaganza - Part 6: Vatican City

2011-11-25T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 6: Vatican City
While completely encircled by the city of Rome, the Vatican truly is a world of its own. Home of the Roman Catholic Church since the late 1300's in 1929, the Vatican City became the world's smallest and least populated independent state.

Spending a day roaming through the museums and St. Peter's Cathedral, you cannot help but see the how centuries of wealth and power have allowed the creation of such an impressive home for the Pope.

The Vatican museums are absolutely huge and it would take hours (if not more) to explore the floors and floors of art through the centuries that has been "acquired" or commissioned by the Vatican. Since this was a group tour, we took the compressed highlights tour. Some of the Greek and Roman statuary on display is quite random. I really enjoyed this statue of a father with child, featuring glass eyeballs inset into the marble carving.

Not to be outdone by Versailles or any of Europes grander palaces, there is plenty of austentatiousness on display as you roam from corridor to corridor, from tapestries to trompe l'oeil to plaster cast ceilings it is hard not to feel small and insignificant at times. You never for a moment forget that in true Dan Brown style, the Vatican was not shy of expressing its wealth within its own city walls.

Any trip to the Vatican should rightly focus on the Basilica of St. Peter's. St. Peter's has the largest interior of any Christian church and still claims the world's tallest dome. The courtyard in front of the basilica still hosts regular public worships led by the pope, where crowds of hundreds of thousands may gather for a service.

The dome, seen here rising above the memorial crypt of St. Peter himself, is equally impressive from inside the basilica. Unlike most of the churches in Italy, photography is allowed indoors because the entire interior decoration consists of millions of mosaic tiles, so there is no fear of pain fading under the light of camera flashes.

Talking a walk through the basilica and is attached underground catacombs, it is fun to see the wide range of burial crypts and coffins used by the pope's through the centuries. Each pope is immortalized with a wax casting at the time of their death. This burial chamber was an open glass coffin, with a wax face and hand casting affixed to the remains so that all future generations can see how this pope looked in life.

It is near impossible for me to visit a tower without itching to climb to the top, so it was a no-brainer decision to wait in line to gain admission to the massive dome. While St. Peter's dome is the largest double dome construction in the world, the staircase leading to the top of the dome was downright modern and civilized, with a distinct 1950s era feel. So despite St. Peter's being taller than the Duomo in Florence, this climb was much cooler and easier to make.

At the base of the dome, you are allowed to walk around the perimeter of the dome to examine the mosiacs and see the basilica from a unique angle. As you can see here, each tile is no more than a 1 inch square piece of glass affixed to the interior walls. The level of detail is amazing when you view from a distance.

My nomination for the cushiest job in Vatican City. Seated at the base of the dome was a security guard reading a book (directly above the cross below). Since the foot traffic in the dome never approach that section, I think he is there to provide a sense of assurance and to react should the urge to launch a paper airplane strikes a dome climber.

While it is hard to get a clear view of any extended portion of the interior of the church below from the catwalk, it is impossible to not amaze at the sheer scope and detail that went into the construction and decoration.

No doubt the highlight of the tower climb is the view from the top of the dome. It was an absolutely perfect day in Rome and you could see for miles in all directions. The Vatican gardens (below) are a beautifully manicured oasis. Unfortunately, I did not know that the daily Vatican garden tours are booked in advance, so if you are planning to visit, be sure to reserve your guided tour admission early.

Looking out over St. Peter's plaza, the road from the basilica leads right to the River Tiber, with the bulk of Central Rome located across the river and to the right. I could only imagine this view an a day when a public service is taking place! To give further sense of the sheer scale of the basilica, note the row of patron saint statues along the ridge of the basilica facing the plaza...

As you exit the dome, you are deposited onto the roof of main chapel and it quickly becomes apparent that these "little" decorative statues are nearly 20 feet tall.

Don't let the perception of the size of the Vatican lead you to think that you can see it in a few hours. We spent from about 8am to 3pm making our way from the museum, through the Sistine Chapel, into the Basilica and up the dome, and I feel like we only got a small taste of what there is to see here.

Next Stop: Pompeii

Italian Extravaganza - Part 5: Rome Then and Now

2011-11-23T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 5: Rome
The second half of the grand tour of Italy was marked by our arrival in Rome. We would have one full day visiting the sites of Rome with a second day spent in at the Vatican City. After arriving the evening before, I took advantage of our hotel's close proximity to the Colosseum to get a few shots of the landmark light up at night.

First stop the next morning was the inside of the Colosseum. In my visit to Rome in 1996, I didn't go inside either the Colosseum or the Forum, so this was the chance to explore something new. As you make your way in through the inner walls, it is amazing just much the concept of the modern sports arena was perfected 2000 years ago and hasn't really changed much, although I can't imagine going to the Staples Center to watch gladiator fights or having pieces of the structure plundered to build other buildings, as happened through the centuries.

Some truly amazing artifacts are on display throughout the Colosseum, like this intact stone mosiac depicting female gladiators facing off against a hungry lion.

While in some ways it is sad that the floor of the Colosseum no longer exists, it does allow for very interesting peaks into the construction of the chambers below the arena floor where the gladiators and the animals were housed on show day. Sections of the arena have been restored to give the impression of what it must have been like at the peak of the empire, such as this wooden stage constructed at one end of the arena. In the modern era, this stage has hosted Elton John and the Three Tenors. Wouldn't it have been fun to watch Elton John fending off a wild animal with his piano and sunglasses!

Just steps from the Colosseum is the Roman Forum. This park-like collection of ruins could almost be called the junkyard of Rome. Over the centuries, government buildings were constructed then plundered over and over again to leave a junkyard of construction dating back 2000 years. After the fall of the Roman Empire, what we know as Rome now was abandoned and in the middle ages was home to sheep, farmers, and barbarians.

This arch, once a grand monument to the emperors was buried 2/3 under ground in the 1800s before restoration of this region began.

Still standing just feet from this arch is the original Senate building. A square simple building, you can walk inside and imagine the Senators of early Rome gathering for official business. The mural below dates back 2000 years and has seen better days!

My friend Phil took a few moments out of exploring the ruins to pose among the ruins of the city. The tall building directly in the distance is the current government offices. When you get closer, you can see the building is built on the foundations of buildings that are over 1000 years old! Mind boggling.

As you leave the Colosseum and the Forum area, the rest of "downtown" Rome is an amalgamation of construction spanning over 2000 years. Next to 19th century townhouses are peaks back to ancient Rome. The Pantheon is the perfect example of this. Built in 126 AD as a temple to the Roman Gods, this imposing building remains in use as a Catholic Church to this day.

Another thing Rome is known for is its fountains. Thanks to a metro strike, our trip to the Spanish Steps was taken by foot which allowed us to see interesting examples of fountains across town, this merman fountain just being one example.

The Trevi fountain is one of the largest fountains in the world. Completed in the late 1700's I couldn't help be unimpressed. Maybe I am not a romantic, but I thought it looked a bit "Disney" and gaudy.

The Spanish Steps are one of Rome's most famous landmarks. Constructed in the early 1700's, the steps link the Villa Medici with the modern shopping district. The Medici's were one of the most powerful families in the Renaissance. Even though it was nearly 80 this fine afternoon, there weren't many people enjoying the steps that afternoon. Just a few steps away from the the Spanish Steps is the home to Italy's first McDonald's restaurant. What I remember most about this McDonald's in 1996 was the elegant marble interior that was worth the visit alone. Sadly, commerce has taken over and the entire marble interior was ripped out to become just another modern European style McDs. The hot fudge sundae tasted the same as the US though :).

If you've traveled through Europe, it is hard not to notice the proliferation of Egyptian obelisks in major European cities. I counted at least 8 Egyptian obelisks in Rome alone. Adding the obelisks I have seen in London, Paris, and even New York, it's amazing that the European conquerors of ancient Egypt left any behind. Imperialism at its best.

My favorite example of the stark contrast between old and new was this group of apartments that were constructed to sandwich one of the old city walls. Maybe it is an American fascination, but anything older than 100 years just makes me go wow at times.

It wouldn't be a trip to Rome without a little Facism, right? Just steps from the forum is none other than Mussolini's balcony. Every great dicatator needs a balcony overlooking a square from which to soak up the adoration of his public. Mussolini built a road directly from the Colosseum to his palace to draw a direct connection from the ancient Roman Empire to his ruling of Italy. Interestingly, I would have built a bigger balcony!

Next Stop: The Vatican

Italian Extravaganza - Part 4: Assisi

2011-11-22T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 4: Assisi
Located about half way between Florence and Rome, nestled in the hillside is the walled city of Assisi. 1000 years of peace in the region has helped this charming town maintain its medieval charm, and I really enjoyed the opportunity to visit, if only for a few hours.

As you approach the city, you can't help but notice the imposing white Cathedral of St. Francis nestled into the hillside. The cathedral dates to the mid-1200's and was built in honor of St. Francis who formed the order of the Franciscan monks.

As you make your way through through the city gates towards the cathedral, there are wonderful views of the largely farming communities that fill the valley below. Modern Assisi has moved into the valley, but the Roman walled city remains intact (albeit filled with souvenir shops and pizza parlors). On the day of our visit, the local Fiat club was passing through on a tour of the countryside, and they parked their colorful Fiat 500's in the plaza for all to enjoy.

The upper level of the cathedral contains murals painted on the walls depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments on one wall, paralleled by scenes from the life of St. Francis. A major earthquake hit Assisi in 1997, severely damaging the interior of cathedral. The murals (no cameras allowed) had clearly seen better days and were in need of severe restoration.

The lower level of the cathedral contains the entrance to the crypt where St. Francis was buried. St. Francis was secretly buried under the construction of the cathedral, and later excavations have revealed the location of the tomb, which remains ensconced in the foundation of the building.

From the entrance of the cathedral, you can see the true scale of the old town.

What I loved most about Assisi was exploring the side streets of the town. Just a few steps away, and you could be away from the throng of tour groups making their way to and from the cathedral. It is hard to get lost, as long as you remember the exit to town is down!

The town is just a beautiful walled city that reminds me of some of the charming villages in France as well. Any damage from the earthquake has been beautifully restored.

The shot below just looks like a perfect puzzle. It is the town's post office just a few steps from the town gates.

If you are visiting Italy, I highly recommend a swing through Assisi. I could have spend a few more hours wandering the streets. The local train station is located at the base of the hill and there are several hotels located within the city walls. Just imagine wandering the streets in the evening after the tour buses go home for the day.

Next Stop: Rome

Italian Extravaganza - Part 3: Firenze

2011-11-21T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 3: Firenze
I was very much looking forward to returning to Florence (or Firenze in Italian). I had such great memories of my all too brief visit in 1996, and I knew this this pass through would be just as short. What I really love about this town is being able to roam down the narrow densely packed streets of the town without fear of getting too lost. On one side is the Arno River, with the medieval Ponte Vecchio spanning its width, and in the Center of town is the Duomo - it's gothic cathedral that looms high above everything else in town.

The Duomo is especially stunning, with a tri-color marble facade of green, red, and white stones. While the cathedral building dates to the 1300 and 1400's, it took until the late 1800's to complete the stone facade.

The Duomo is not the only church in Florence to use a brightly colored marble facade, in fact many of the churches I passed had the same tri-color stone, but only on the front of the buidling, with bricks exposed around the rest of the exterior.

As with many of Europe's oldest cities, as you walk through the center of town, the contrast of new architecture side by side with buildings hundreds of years old is fun to see. Down one alley, we were pointed to the oldest standing tower in Florence, over 1000 years old, which has been incorporated into one of the cities many 5 star hotels.

After nearly a week of travel, I was itching to climb some towers, so after the morning tour of the Academy Gallery to see Michelangelo's David and learn more about the artist's life, it was time to climb to the top of the Duomo. The line was only about 30 minutes long, and then it was up, up, and away through the walls of the cathedral. The Duomo was constructed as a double dome, so after the initial scaling the walls to the base of the dome, you quickly be able to see the interior dome construction.

About half way up the dome, there is an observation deck looking down into the cathedral below. You can see how simple the Florence cathedral interior construction is in contrast to its lavish exterior. Oddly, there was a plexiglass barrier closing off the catwalk, hence the reflective glare of the photo.

What is not simple are the elaborate murals that are painted onto the interior of the dome. From this perspective you can see the artist representation of heaven, purgatory, and hell in great detail.

The climb to the top of the dome was challenging in sections, both in terms of clausterphobia, and the fact that the final flights of stairs share a narrow staircase with oncoming foot traffic. The views from the tower are stunning (see photo at top of page) and is completely worth the climb.

Not far from the Duomo is the Piazza della Signoria in front of the Palazo Vecchio (or "Town Hall") of Florence. The Piazza houses a grand collection of statues, and was the original home to the David until the late 1800's. Today replicas of most of the statues have replaced the originals, which does nothing to diminish their ability to inspire awe.

Interestingly, not every statue in the Piazza is a replica. The Rape of the Sabine Women by the artist Giambologna was finished in 1582 and the original marble statue remains on display in the Piazza to this day.

My favorite statue in the Piazza is a bronze statue of Perseus Holding the Head of Medusa. Not only does this statue bring back childhood memories of the original Clash of the Titans movie, but I really love the depictions of the snakes pouring out of the severed head and neck.

Another spot to get an amazing view of the city, along with the Arno river is from across the river. We were lucky enough to stop for a few minutes just at dusk

And lest you forget that Florence is the city of David, there is yet another statue of David overlooking the city from across the river, this time in Bronze.

We had all to short of a stay in Florence. There was some time to explore the leather shops, but not enough to truly explore the many medieval buildings. Florence remains on my list of towns that I would love to revisit at a more leisurely pace.

Next Stop: Assisi

Persimmon Spice Bundt - National Bundt Day

2011-11-19T11:38:00.001-08:00

National Bundt Day
November 15, 2011

Long before Mary, aka The Food Librarian, was a librarian, or a baker, or a blogger, she was a fellow Bruin during our undergraduate days at UCLA. The fact that we have been friends for over 22 years , and that we didn't become what we used to call "Quarter Friends," is a testiment to how great she truly is.

Now I am a pretty good cook, and I love to entertain, but I am not much of a baker. I have surely never made a bundt cake. I also have never eaten a persimmon, so what better way to celebrate Mary's I Like Big Bundts 3rd annual extravaganza than to make a persimmon spice bundt cake.

A little over a year ago, I bought this really cool stadium shaped Nordic Ware bundt pan that I have been waiting to use. With it feeling like fall in LA (cloudy, grey, cold, and two yellow leaves on the trees), what perfect time for a spice cake.

I admit I freaked out a few times while making this, despite reading the recipe every step of the way. I was surprised at how little batter there was in the finished mix. Did I really put two cups of flour in? I obviously forgot about the whole "raising" concept.

Because of the narrow width of the cake in this pan, my toothpick test indicated the cake was done in 45 minutes, so I cooled it, flipped it, and tried to pretty it up with some powdered sugar. The finished product looks cool, but nothing like the some of Mary's photo book worthy cakes. The recipe I followed can be found here. I actually refrain from calling it a Fuyu Spice cake, because I don't actually know what kind of persimmons I used. I am the first to admit my ignorance on this topic!

Quiz. How to keep 3 little pups pay attention to you for over an hour? Start cooking early morning on a Saturday. They will give you their full attention the entire time! (Eddie: Left; Sydney: Top Right; Buddy: Bottom Right).

I look forward to serving the cake tonight to a group of friends who actually know how to eat a persimmon. I will be sure to post a comment update.

Check out some of Mary's amazing creations on her blog. You can spend hours just "eating" the pictures.

Italian Extravaganza - Part 2: Pisa

2011-11-18T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 2: Pisa
The city of Pisa is located about 60 miles west of Florence. Known for it's famous "Leaning Tower of Pisa," how could any respectable tour not make a stop there? We took a very short diversion on the way from Venice to Florence and stopped for about an hour to take in the Pisa Cathedral Square and it's famous leaning bell tower.

I had hoped to climb the bell tower, but alas, the tickets on sale required a two hour wait, and we would have missed our tour bus by then, so I settled for getting an espresso and taking a once around the square. I had never noticed before that the cathedrals in Italy have a very distinct architectural layout. Unlike the French and English cathedrals which are one large building, the Italian cathedrals are broken into three separate buildings - the baptistry, the basilica, and the bell tower. As explained to us by a local tour guide, this layout ensures that you can be baptised before first entering the basilica for worship. The Pisa complex is a stunning example of this design, and the park-like setting allows you to fully appreciate the components.

Of course the key question that everyone asks is "Why does the tower lean?" You can believe the technical explanations about the foundations shifting and slowly sinking, but I think that the tower leaning is really the result of an elaborate game of control played by the ancient married giants who inhabited the countryside outside of Pisa. When there was an argument to settle, they would make their way to the square and whoever could push the tower the furthest to the opponent's side would win the argument. So believe the sinking foundations explanation all you like, but I think the tower truly leans to the direction of the husband giant indicating it was his turn to take out the trash.

Next Stop: Florence

Italian Extravaganza - Part 1: Venice

2011-11-17T07:00:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Part 1: Venice
After the briefest of visits to Amsterdam, it was a short flight from there to Venice. Flying into Venice on a clear day is absolutely stunning as you cross the Pyrenees Mountains you can see the villages dotted through the hillsides. From the airport in Venice it was a short walk to the water taxi stand where a cool boat was waiting to whisk us to our hotel. As you approach the city by water, it's hard not to get caught up the beauty of building a city on water.

Entering town through a small canal is almost like arriving at a restaurant through the backdoor. The boat drivers all greet each other cheerfully and you get your first peak at the nooks and crannies waiting to be explored.

Our hotel was located on the Grand Canal just across from the train station which proved to be a great location to navigate from, whether on foot, or by water bus.

The highlight of the very brief tour of the city had to be the Doge's Palace. This complex was the center of the Republic of Venice and the home to the most senior official of the Republic. It was interesting to learn that the Doge was elected for life and never allowed to leave the Palace unaccompanied. Doges were the main figurehead of Venice up until the invasion of Napoleon at the end of the 1700's.

Right around the corner from the Doge's Palace is San Marco Square and Basilica.

That morning, the Square flooded, making it necessary to use makeshift catwalks to enter the Basilica. Photos were not allowed in any of the Basilica's in Italy. What made San Marco so interesting was how worn the marble floors were after nearly 1000 years of operation.

The real joy in Venice lay in the exploration of the countless alleys and shopping streets of the City. In true Where's Waldo fashion, if you look closely you can find my shiny head absorbing the sites and sounds. There are sections of town that are dedicated to what can only nicely be called "tourist goods," but if you hit the right street, you can wander into a local cheese shop, wine shop, or handmade goods shop to imagine what it would be like to gather your daily wares on your way home from work.

Rod (a.k.a. Dad) and Kris were keen to enjoy a gondola ride through the canals, and over the course of 40 minutes, they learned a great deal about the boat drivers, life in the city, and neat perspectives on Venice that the typical tourist may not ever hear.

What will stay with me most of Venice, and for the entire trip, is the amazing dinner I had on the second night in Venice. A few alleys away from our hotel was a wonderful little restaurant that we decided to eat at based on the food on the customers plates as we passed the windows outside. I ordered a grilled sea bass, which arrived whole on a platter. The waiter proceeded to de-bone the sea bass at the table and make the lemon caper sauce using the remnant fat, bones, and head of the fish for flavoring.

The fish was amazing and nicely complemented by a platter of grilled vegetables. Yum!

Soon it was time to leave Venice. Any amount of time in the city should be spent with no agenda and no fixed direction set. How else could you stumble across such stunning pieces of art such as this mosiac on the wall of hidden monastery.....

Or one of the many wall carvings that served as "official mailboxes" where you could lodge anonymous complaints against your neighbors.

Next Stop: Pisa

Italian Extravaganza - A Flash of Amsterdam

2011-11-16T15:49:00.000-08:00

Grand Tour of Italy - October 2011

Introduction: Getting there - Pit Stop in Amsterdam.

I get a lot of joy out of planning vacations. The excitement of seeing new and exciting places gives me much to look forward to on those days when work and life get a little routine. I originally visited Italy in 1996 as part of a 3 week whirlwind backpacking trip, and I have flashes of memories of Florence, Venice, and Rome. Since the last group trip to Ireland in 2009, Italy floated to the top of the pack for "next in line." Given how busy the past year has been, I opted to not plan a trip from scratch, but to browse a selection of package tour options this go round. I ended up booking a tour with Gate 1 Travel by way of Virgin Vacations.

The itinerary I booked included a 6-7 hour layover in Amsterdam. Type "6 hour layover in Amsterdam" into Google and you will be astounded by the number of pages that will offer you advice on getting into town from the airport and what to see in the short time you are there.

Due to a flight delay, we ended up having a 5 hour window, in which it is still very easy to get into the city using the express train at the airport. My only additional recommendation that was not included on the advice websites is to be sure to have Euros in cash for the train tickets. For some reason in Amsterdam the train station at the airport only accepts "chip and pin" credit cards, leaving us Americans in a lurch. No where else in Europe have I experienced not being able to swipe my credit card. A jaunt to the ATM took precious minutes away from an already tight schedule.

Upon arriving at the Central Train Station in Amsterdam, we were just a few steps away from the canal tour boats. For 10 euros, we purchased a one hour boat tour. The tour included a selection of commentaries to help you follow along the sites.

I admit I was a bit tired from the long flight from Los Angeles, and used the time to simply absorb the sites. It was nice to have the boat take us along the main river as well as through canals of varying age. The weather could not have been more perfect, with temperatures in the mid 70's in late September!

I was struck by two things in that quick hour. 1) I was amazed by how many of the older canal buildings were painted black. I seemed to have memories from my last visit in 1996 of a range of colorful facades. 2) The influx of new modern architecture in the city was astounding and it was great to see the old and new side by side. This pub/suspension bridge dated back to the 1700's!

By the end of the canal trip, there wasn't enough time left to wander by foot, so it was time to catch the bullet train back to the airport. A very short visit indeed, but great fun to marvel at a city that was built on the water over 400 years ago and continues to thrive. I look forward to a longer visit next time.

Next stop: Venice

Catalina Eco Marathon - aka - A Run in the Clouds

2011-11-13T18:06:00.001-08:00

November 12, 2012
Catalina Eco Marathon, Avalon, CA

I originally started training for Catalina back in April, but after a fitful summer of training, I never pulled the trigger on committing to the race until about 8 weeks ago. Thankfully, my yoga practice and race schedule kept me moving, so I was able to pick up the pace and get ready for what would surely be one of the toughest marathons I would ever complete.

The goverment holiday gods must love this race, because it falls on a Saturday and the Friday is a State holiday, meaning no time needed off work to make a nice weekend getaway to the island. No 6 am ferry on race day for me!

After watching the weather intently all weekend, Friday's journey from Long Beach to Avalon was near perfection. Calm seas and temperatures in the low 70's. The light clouds over Avalon's harbor on arrival just added to the cheer of the welcome.

What a difference a day can make! After some evening sprinkles, at about midnight, the rain started to fall. And fall, and fall. One uniformed estimate was that nearly 2 inches of rain fell on parts of the island between midnight and 6am. I begrudgingly dressed myself in head to toe black ready to take on the muddy trails that were sure to await! After chatting with my hotel neighbor about whether he was going to race or not, a group of us started to make our way down to the start line. The rain had stopped leaving a nice cool overcast. The first surprise of the day: the starting line had moved back to the Center of town. As we made our way into town (luckily Avalon is a VERY small place), we directed other runners to the new start line. The first thing I noticed upon reaching the beach was how yesterday's calm seas had transformed overnight into a raging beast. Again, I was thrilled to have not taken the morning ferry.

A pre-race announcement let us know that portions of the trails had been washed out in the rains or weren't safe to access, so at 2am, the course officials redirected the course. No longer would we conquer the Catalina Crush or pass the lake, and our chances of buffalo sighting were now lower. Instead the course would now be an out and back course to the Airport. The first 12 or so miles were still the same as the original course, and about 8 or so miles of the course were still fire trails with plenty of hills to keep us busy.

The group of 195 who set out from the start were some of the friendliest runners I have ever encountered. There wasn't an ounce of negativity about the course change or the weather - it was all smiles and chatter as we set off.

The course made its way out of town to the Wrigley Memorial Gardens and Monument, which is typically the highest elevation that many a Catalina visitor will see. Yet at the foot of the monument, we turned right and began to make our way up the mud drenched fire roads. How mud drenched? Does this give you any idea?

At about mile 3, the fire road plateaued along a ridge of the island where you can stand and see the ocean on both sides of the island. This point of the morning was the clearest the skies got all day, and soon the views were immersed in fog. At about Mile 6, we hit the paved airport road that would be our course for about 14 miles, so I could relax and just enjoy the sites of the island.

The fog really got dense as I reached the airport turn around. Unlike most races, the aid stations became spots for the runners to stop for a few minutes, chat, get their bearings, and just relax a bit before heading into the next leg. There were no shortage of photo opportunities as well. Two nice ladies asked me if I had time to stop and take their picture against the airport backdrop, to which I responded, "would you believe me if I said I was in a hurry?"

At the halfway aid station (very vaguely seen to the left of the photo below), the true goodies started to appear. Pretzels, red bulls, cokes, and extra encouragement. I am sure I could never compete internationally when I consider that over the course of today's run, I consumed 6 Advils, 2 Benedryls, 2 Red Bulls, and 1 Sierra Nevada on top of my electrolytes, water, and chews.

Among the many friendly people I encountered along the way was Yolanda Holder. Yolanda completed her 300th lifetime marathon. Check our her blog "The Road to Guinness." She had the largest smile on her face when I passed her and she was thrilled to pose for this picture. Her feat is only more impressive when you consider that after the run she got on the ferry and completed the Malibu marathon the next day! Makes me feel lazy!

I felt surprisingly strong all throughout the run. My training in the Santa Monica mountains really helped the initial 3 mile stretch of trails, and I quickly combated the cramps that tried to grab on to my thighs at Mile 19 but powering down a whole pack of margarita flavored Cliff Shots. I had prepped extra Gu's and electrolytes in case it got too cold or the rain started to fall, and I never passed a single of the aid stations.

I like to think the preparedness paid off, because I knew that shortly after the 20 mile mark, it would be back on the muddy trails and that the final 3 miles would be down hill, often quite steep. Luckily, the Mile 21 aid station was like a gift from the heavens. Greeting the runners was a life size Justin Bieber, not looking fazed at all by the mist and drizzle. After a quick photo with him, it was to the station offering not only Red Bulls, but Sierra Nevada Ale and buffalo burgers. I passed on the buffalo but thoroughly enjoyed my 5 ounces of Sierra Nevada before committing myself to the final stretch.

The mud was more packed and less slippery at this point thanks to the lack of any additional rain. And just past the mile 23 marker, the trail down to to town appeared in sight. If you just squint at the photo below, you can see a steep ridge trail that takes you back down to the Wrigley Memorial. As I reached this point, a nice guy running next to me said, "you know we are going to break 5 1/2 hours?" I took that incentive to turn on my turbo boost and give it all I had the last 3 miles.

I took those last 3 miles in just under 30 minutes, quite a comparison to the very slow walking ascent I made early in the morning, crossing the finish line with an official time of 5:15:45. Marathon #9 successfully in the books.

While I didn't get to run the "real course" or conquer the Catalina Crush hill at Mile 19, nothing can take the smile off my face as I look at my buffalo medal. I earned this one, as did each and every one of the other 195 runners out there today.

After a quick shower, it was time to celebrate. How better than a flight of red wine and a cheese plate!

The rain returned shortly after I finished running, so it was an early night in, but I awoke on Sunday to a beautiful and peaceful Catalina morning. The sky could not be clearer and the seas were calm for the boat ride back to LA. I'll be back next year!

I haven't planned my next adventure yet. In December I am doing the Rock and Roll Vegas half marathon, followed the next week by the Santa Monica Venice Christmas run. But after that my race schedule is as vast and open as the Pacific Ocean. Knowing my personality that will change very quickly.

LA Cancer Challenge 5/10K

2011-10-30T17:26:00.000-07:00

October 30, 2011
VA Compound, West Los Angeles

It's 2 weeks until the Catalina Eco Marathon and last weekend was my 20 mile run. I felt suprisingly great during and after the run, so I turned my attention to my planning my shorter runs for this week and next. A Halloween weekend tradition in which I have never partaken is the Cancer Challenge Halloween run. I lined up my friend Mary (AKA The Food Librarian) for the 5k, and decided I would run both the 5 and 10K - giving me a nice 9.3 mile run.

On Friday night, I hit the garage and pulled out my most running friendly costume - everyone has a costume box in their garage, right? For some reason this was the only costume that wasn't made of wool, which turned out to be a good thing, because it was HOT today. So Fred Flinstone strapped on the running shoes and trecked to the VA compound.

The 10K was surpsingly small with just over 500 runners. I can't help but wonder if the new Rock N Roll Los Angeles half marathon cannibalized the run just a bit. The scene below was from the much larger 5k cohort, which started 30 minutes after I crossed the 10k finish line.

I should have known better, but I wasn't expecting the hills. At least 4 good hills were spread evenly across the 3 mile loop, which meant that by the time I finished, I had climbed 12 hills! Good training for Catalina, or so I tell myself.

I was so glad Mary was by my side on the 3rd loop. The last 3 miles went psychologically much faster. Mary did an awesome job, completing her 3rd 5k in the past 11 months. We will wrap up her "running year" by repeating the Torrance Turkey Trot on Thanksgiving morning.

I didn't really snap that many photos today. My mind was elsewhere, and most of the costumes appeared in the very crowded 5k. I wasn't out there for the time today, but finished the 10K in a very decent 61 minutes and the 5k in 38 minutes.

Next week, it's off to Camarillo for a work retreat, so hopefully I can get my last long run in amongst the strawberry fields.

Next Stop: Catalina Eco Marathon

2011-09-18T14:00:00.000-07:00

Next Marathon: Catalina Eco Marathon
November 12, 2011
I have been considering running the Catalina Eco Marathon (i.e. waivering) for two years now. I had it on and off my 2011 calendar more times that I can count, yet my training mileage has dropped and the heat of Bulldog sapped a little of my enthusiasm. But nothing can stop the call of running the trails of this gorgeous island 22 miles of the coast from my ears.

Then a few weeks ago the fine folks at Spectrum Sports announce a little Facebook contest. "Like us by Friday, and be entered to win an entry into the Catalina Eco-Marathon." I rarely enter these contests, but the second I clicked "like" I had a feeling that I would win. The following Monday, while working away, I was notified by Twitter, Facebook, and email all at once that I had WON!!!!! I actually pumped my fists in the air and shouted YES in my small little office, but no one noticed. Then it dawned on me.....

Oh, crap - now I can't waiver anymore, I have to actually run - and not just run half assed. If I am going to conquer the Catalina Crush at mile 19, I better get my act together. So out comes my shoes. I have put in two moderate runs 6 miles last week and 8.5 miles today - both at the beach. Last Sunday, my friend Terance was at the end of my 6 mile run to capture this action shot - I love how well he captured the beauty of the beach on a cloudy Sunday morning.

Tomorrow I begin my 8 week training program. 3 moderate/short runs during the week (Mon/Wed/Fri) followed by varying lengths of long runs on Sunday. On Tuesday/Thursday it is yoga. Then on the 7th day, I rest! Ambitious, yes. A bit crazy, aren't I always? Am I loving it, hell ya! Bring on marathon #9!

Race:
Catalina Eco Marathon
Saturday, November 12, 2011

Space still available for both the Marathon and the 10K. Marathon begins at 8am, so you can either stay on the island overnight or take the early boat from Long Beach in time to run and return the same day.

The Bulldog Was Mad - 25K Recap

2011-08-31T20:55:00.000-07:00

Preview Day: August 13, 2011
I have been training in the Santa Monica mountains for nearly 20 years now, but only in the past 3 years I have really begun to explore the truly exceptional Southern California trails - not only known for their beauty but their beastliness as well. After one 25K in Malibu Creek in 2009, I developed a sense of awe and respect for the the Bulldog - a course that you can know but never master.

My friend Ginger has set a goal of running 12 half marathons in 12 months in 2011. When her ambitious goal was hampered by a lack of an August race, I offered up the 25K of Bulldog (15.7 miles) as an option. Knowing that Bulldog is not a race you face blind, my friends Phil, Tony, and I took Ginger on a preview a few weeks ago.

I knew we were in for a day when the night before the run, Ginger asked "how much of the run are we previewing" to which I responded - "all 15.7 miles!" Stunned, she showed up ready for the longest run she had done in a long time.

The preview started with a wonderful fog and haze hanging over the valley. Most people wrongly think that Malibu Creek is in Malibu - a beachside community along the coast. But Malibu Creek is a good 2,000 feet uphill in the nook of the Santa Monica Mountains.

Taking a slow preview means you have time to enjoy the sights without the pressure of time or the general push of the crowds. Before heading up the 3 mile Bulldog climb, we stopped to admire the fresh paint job of the MASH jeep set out to landmark the home of TV's Korean War.

And 8 miles in, we stopped at the top of the mountain to explore the man-made stone circle maze. These sight seeing side trips did nothing to take away from Ginger's pre-run education, and she left our preview with a respect of the challenge that lie ahead on race day.

Flash Forward: 14 days - August 27, 2011
4:30am - the alarm went off and I rolled out of bed. In 3 hrs, Phil, Tony, Ginger, and I would be setting off from the parking lot to join almost 400 others on today's 25K - another 100+ braver souls set off an hour early to conquer the mountain TWICE. I stepped outside at pre-dawn and noted the 67 degree temperature. Today was going to be HOT. No fog, no cloud cover, no hope for an easy ride.

Shortly after arriving at the park, the sun peeked over the mountains revealing the splendor of our Southern California mountains. All we could do was cross our fingers, focus our minds, and set off on our individual challenge to complete the race with integrity. The first 2-3 miles swam along in a lovely fashion. We all refrained from our usual "start too fast" mentality and settled into a nice rhythm. Phil pulled ahead as is normal from the excitement of the day, but I hung with Tony and Ginger until we started to make our way uphill around mile 3.

By the time I reached the first aid station at Mile 4, while ready for a cold Coke and some pretzels, I was optimistic. I was feeling good and my Benadryl at the starting line was holding off my typical dust induced wheezing that I have felt on previous runs. From Mile 4 to 7 is an uphill hike that only true ultra marathon machines and little Asian women can handle without walking, so I settled into my usual power walking stride.

About 6 miles in, another mile or so to go to the true summit of the day, I stopped and took a look down at my path behind me. Folks were plowing up the hill, but more and more I noticed that the rare patches of shade were dotted with racers stopping and taking a standing break. I kept making my way up the hill, feeling the heat growing outside and within me. A few times, I had to stop in the shade and will my heart rate to slow down just a touch. But as long as I was still sweating and taking in my watered down mix of Vitalyte, I figured I would be fine. At just shy of mile 7 I looked at my phone and noticed that at current pace I would reach the top at 1.5 hrs, putting me on par with my best finishes. But 100 yards and another hill ahead, I realized that I wasn't sweating. No moisture on the brow. My arms were dry. Not a good sign. I soon came upon a group utilizing one of the larger patches of shade. An experienced runner was helping her running mates gauge their temperature and giving them tips to cool down to ensure that they could complete the run.

So I sat down. Joined a dozen of my compatriots as we re-adjusted our strategies and focused on finishing. A good 5 minutes of light hearted banter and consuming gu's and chew's past and then I set off for the last mile to the top of the mountain. Finally reaching the top, I made my way the mile downhilll to the second aid station when I noticed that no one - not a single runner - was running down hill. The heat had taken over and conquered our middle of the packers "finish in the top half" mentality. Officially none of us cared and just wanted to finish.

The aid station at Corral Canyon was heaven. I spent 5 minutes getting sponge baths, chatting, eating, and refilling my 70oz Camelbak. Once I knew that I was ok, I set off for the next segment - the downhill, but uphill crawl along the ridge. The ocean taunted us from the West and a breeze helped to cool us down as we made our way. 2 weeks ago, I noted that the "bullfrog rock" was our final uphill - at mile 10, so I happily pointed out our turning point to any runner I saw along the route - especially those who thought they couldn't make it.

From here it was 3 miles downhill to aid station #3. Due to some unexplained rules of the race, Catherine - the best race crew on earth - was not allowed at second aid station, so I plowed downhill until I reached the bottom with a smiling Catherine who plied me with cold water and scones to get me through the last 2.5 miles of the run.

After passing the last aid station there is a single track "up and over" hill that to a typical SM mountains runner is usually a little fun hill. But after 3.5 hours and no shade, this hill was harsh and felt much harder than the mile that it was. But I knew that the home stretch was in sight, so I sucked it up, took my last Gu and plowed up and over the hill until I hit the road to the finished.

I had never been so happy to cross a finish line. 4 hours and 10 minutes after starting, I soon found out that the temperature had reached over 106 degrees on the trail this morning. Yet despite the heat, every one of us quickly adjusted our focus and all did what it takes to finish. Time flew out the window and not a person I passed on the trails cared about our time - we just cared about finishing.

After I crossed the line, freed my feet from my shoes and replenished my blood alcohol levels, I saw a vision in pink pass my view. There making her way to the finish line, over 5 hours after starting, was my buddy Ginger. She ran that finish 1/4 mile like there is no tomorrow!

Bulldog 2011 is a day I will never forget. I watched as a very reasonable 15.7 mile run with a 4,000 foot climb turned into the hardest thing I had ever experienced in my 40 years on this earth. Like everyone around me, we focused, breathed, and conquered. Much like the 2011 LA Marathon will go down on as the wettest marathon in history, Bulldog 2011 will go down as one of the most challenging trail runs in Southern California.

We earned our medals today. Here I am with Nadine, Ginger, Tony, and Catherine. Phil (not pictured) completed the run ahead of all of us, despite his knee injury. Typically after a day like this, we stop and reflect what is next. Almost immediately after the run, I found out that I have won a free entry to the Catalina Eco Marathon on November 12, 2011. I have circled this race with interest, and now that I have a guaranteed admission, I now know what my next marathon (#9) will be! Yikes. At least they "promise" me that it won't be 106 degrees in November!

Duke University Chapel

2011-08-20T07:48:00.000-07:00

Durham, NC - May 2011
Having traveled through various parts of Europe and Latin America, one constant of all my trips is a visit to the local cathedrals and churches. I enjoy exploring the different styles of architecture and am always amazed to walk in buildings that often date back 1000 years. Back in May, I spent a few days at a conference hosted by Duke University, and was thrilled to have a free morning to explore the campus grounds. Me and my fellow explorers made our way straight to the Duke Chapel

Walking up to this gothic style building, I instantly felt like I was in England, which is no surprise since the bell tower of the chapel is modeled after Canterbury Cathedral (a building with origins dating back 1,100 years).

Yet, while the style of architecture is traditional, there are some distinct nods to the chapels foundations in the American South. For instance, enter the portico of the chapel, and take a good look at the saints carved into the archway - right next to Moses is none other than civil war "saint" Robert E. Lee!

Inside the chapel, the cavernous vaulted ceilings and stained glass windows greet you.

The stained glass look more in the style of Eastern European catholic churches of the middle ages.

It would be easy to visit the chapel and feel like you had walked through a landmark dating back 500 or 600 years, but then you would have to wonder how such a building could have been built in a time when cotton farming was the way of life of the early American settlers. Yet a peak a few buildings away and you are quickly reminded that Duke University was founded in 1924! The chapel construction began in 1930 and opened in 1935!

A wonderful place to stay when visiting the Duke campus is the Washington Duke Inn - located just adjacent to the campus, this country club has a wonderful hotel and it's own 18 hole golf course. Because the hotel had large meeting facilities, our entire two day meeting was contained within these lovely grounds.

The hotel is surrounded by it's own 5k nature trail, and each morning I took advantage of the trail to get my exercise in, often passing other conference attendees on their morning run.

Bordering the campus is downtown Durham. A former industrial center, the town has been turned into a center of social life with an influx of restaurants, bars, and cafes filling in the old warehouses of town. But you can never walk more than a few steps without being reminded that Durham and Duke University were built on the tobacco industry.... as witnessed by this plaque gracing one of the wonderful art deco factories in town.

While I only had a few hours free to explore, I look forward to a return visit to Duke. The campus is home to a large botanical garden and a lemur research center that offers tours to the public. Two items that are definitely on my list for the next trip!

Free Day to Explore Seattle

2011-08-17T09:45:00.000-07:00

June 2011
Back in June, I organized a conference in Seattle for work. When booking my travel, I made sure that I left myself half a day before the conference to throw in some sight seeing. I have been to Seattle a few times before, but still hadn't visited to the Space Needle, which was #1 on my list.

The above photo was taken from the lobby of the Space Needle - you pose in front of a green screen and select your background and they email you the photo. Much easier than standing on a platform in the middle of the city at dusk to try and get this view!

The flight to Seattle was great - I flew on Virgin America, and paid $39 at check in to upgrade my seat to the extra legroom row, which included free movies, food, and wine. I took advantange of all 3....

I rarely sit in the window seats on the plane, because I find it too uncomfortable on my legs, but since I had the extra legroom, I had a nice window view of the West Coast, including this amazing view of Crater Lake in Oregon.

A short train ride from the airport and you are in downtown. While making my way to my hotel, the Space Needle beckoned me from many a street corner, so I dropped my bags off and made my way to the tower. Built for the 1962 World's Fair, the tower is definitely a monument to the Jetson's era of the 1960's.

The elevator ride to the top was less than a minute, and despite the partially open views from the elevator, not nearly as terror inducing as I had imagined. The views of the city from the observation deck were amazing, and you can sit in the comfort of a glass enclosed cafe to enjoy the views while sampling a few of the local beers.

Located right next door to the Space Needle is the EMP Museum (also knows as the Experience Music Project). Opened in 2000, this Frank Gehry designed museum is very much the more colorful cousin of the Disney Concert Hall in downtown Los Angeles.

The amorphous shapes of the exterior extend in to the exterior of the building, giving the interior an oddly alien organic feel. Even if you aren't too keen to visit the rock & roll or science fiction museums housed in the building, you can't miss a journey into the lobby and gift shop just for the views.

After exploring Space Needle, I was ready to head to Pike's Market for some lunch, so I hopped on the monorail for the quick (less than 5 minutes) and cheap ($2) trip to downtown, followed by a short walk to the market.

I arrived at the market mid afternoon, when the fresh fish markets were wrapping up their day and the arts and craft vendors were starting to put away their goods.

But luckily for me, Beecher's Handmade Cheese Shop was still open so I could sit at the observation window watching the daily batches of homemade cheddar being made. Of course I celebrated the view with a grilled cheese and lobster panini!

It was a great afternoon wandering around Seattle. I had hoped to visit Pioneer Square to take the underground tunnels tour that I had heard so much about, but it was time to get back to the hotel and get ready for the next day's conference, so I will have to save that tour for another trip.

Charity Kickoff - Team Noah's Wish 2012 Honda LA Marathon Campaign

2011-08-09T15:40:00.000-07:00

Sunday, August 14, 2011 - 4-6pm

I am hosting the Team Noah's Wish 2012 Honda LA Marathon Campaign Kick-off - I hope many of you can join us. Here is the original announcement that appeared on our marathon blog:
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Join Catherine and Dave on Sunday, August 14!

Thinking of running the LA Marathon?
Supporter of a friend or family member who runs?
Lover of animals?
Lover of fine wine and conversation?

You are invited! Join us on Sunday, August 14th from 4-6pm as we officially launch our 2012 Honda LA Marathon Charity campaign. This year, we are seeking to raise over $30,000 to support Noah's Wish as it continues to provide vital animal rescue services in the United States and Canada.

All are invited to come and hang out with us, learn more about our charity, and help us celebrate our award as the 2011 Honda LA Marathon Best Overall Charity.

Where: Vinoteque on Melrose

7469 Melrose Avenue

Los Angeles, CA 90046

When: Sunday, August 14, 4-6pm

Admission: $25 at the door*

RSVP: noahswishteam@gmail.com

Parking: Valet or street parking available (obey all posted signs)

*Admission includes passed appetizers, one glass of Sangria (virgin available), and a $10 donation to Team Noah's Wish. A cash bar offering a selection of wines by the glass for $5 each is available.

Team Noah's Wish Runners: Any member of Team Noah's Wish who attends or brings a guest will have their 2012 fundraising campaign credited $10 for each referred admission at the door.

Across the Golden Gates

2011-08-05T18:23:00.000-07:00

San Francisco 1/2 Marathon - July 31, 2011
I grew up in San Jose, just 45 miles south of San Francisco, but have spent very little time in the "City by the Day." My last visit to SF was a short 4 hours at the California Academy of Sciences in 2009, so when I found out that several of my friends had signed up to run various configurations of the San Francisco Marathon (1st half, 2nd half, full), I decided to jump on board and sign up for the first half and make a tourist weekend of it.

The entire weekend was public transportation based - ditching the rental car in favor of exploring the city by foot, trolly, and bus. The Bay Bridge (part of which collapsed in the "Big One" Earthquake of 1989) was an almost constant fixture from the race start line, the ferry building, and my hotel in the Embarcadero.

After arriving on Friday evening and enjoying an awesome oyster dinner at the Ferry Building, I woke up Saturday morning and joined the Lululemon sponsored "shake out run" - a 3 mile run from the ferry building to AT&T park. When I last lived in the bay area, the Giants played at Candlestick Stadium outside the city. I couldn't pass up a chance to visit the new park on foot.

Saturday morning was perfect for a quick run, and the 50 or so runners represented the east coast, central US, west coast and international territories. Interestingly, no midwestern runners joined our fun that morning. I was pleasantly shocked to here my name called out and to get a chance to greet Adria, my marathon extraordinaire running friend from New York, who was in San Francisco to complete marathon # 57!.

AT&T Park is gorgeous and I can't wait to return for a game. I love that the stadium blends into the surrounding warehouses rather than sticking out like a modern industrial sore thumb. At the end of the 3 mile run, the ferry building was hosting it's weekly farmer's market - a market to rival some of the best LA Farmer's Markets, only with less unwashed celebrities.

My day of sight seeing on Saturday included lunch in Chinatown and some shopping in Haight-Ashbury. I was so busy spending several hours salary on a pair of shorts that I forgot to take pictures, but one accidental wander down an alley in Chinatorwn brought me to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. This blink and you miss it storefront is the home to the original fortune cookie - a decidedly American invention.

An early evening pizza and salad dinner, and I was off to bed by 8pm, to allow for some sleep before my 4am wakeup call. My wave was due to depart the ferry building start line at 5:42am, the brutally early start to allow the Golden Gate to reopen by 10am.

I made my way the whopping 100 yards from my hotel to the start line and enjoyed a relaxed 30 minutes of warm up and stretching time, before my wave gun went off just as the sky began to brighten.

I took way less pictures than usual, because I was just so enamored by the view. Running along the wharves to Fort Dixon where the first glimpses of the Golden Gate emerged - above - I was taking in all the sites and smells and sounds. The hill around mile 5 was a steep reminder that we were in San Francisco, but soon enough we were on the bridge crossing the bay.

The Golden Gate is actually a wonderfully designed bridge, the ascent and descent were very gradual. The crowds were tight at times and more than 6 faceplants were witnessed during the 4 mile across and back crossing. The sun wasn't quite up yet so I didn't get very good views of the city in the distance, but the temperature was perfect for a morning run. I finally warmed up around mile 6 at which point I sped up and maintained my pace the remainder of the race.

The photographers were conveniently stationed along the course to catch me in my typical unhappy face - but this shot shows off some impressive leg musculature if I must say so myself :)

Those of us who didn't review the map before the run mistakenly thought that after the bridge the hills were over. Well, after mile 9 we hit a steep uphill to mile 10, followed by a long winding descent back into the city. The views of the ocean coves were breathtaking. Then at mile 11, the unthinkable happened - uphill again! through mile 12.5. But soon enough, we were entering into the park, saying goodbye the marathon runners, and soon enough, crossing the finish line into the half marathon recovery zone.

After a needed change - it was not even 8am and the overcast was thickening - I happily visited the Irish Coffee table to celebrate the Irish side of me (Cheers Grampa Rod) and warm up for the short bus ride back to the start line and a hot shower and breakfast before the trip to the airport home.

It was a wonderful experience that I will remember for years. Next year, I will complete the second half so I can have my "Half It All" marathon medal. I doubt the second half will be as pretty, but I look forward to beating my decidedly average finish time of 2 hrs 6 minutes.

Next stop - time to revisit my race schedule. I need to add a few runs, take out one or two - something big is coming this Spring - I need to be ready!

Hampton Court Flower Show

2011-07-20T09:00:00.000-07:00

Hampton Court Palace- July 7, 2011
The Royal Horticultural Society's Hampton Court Palace Flower Show kicked off it's public days on Thursday, July 7th. I was very much looking forward to exploring this show and comparing it to the two Chelsea Flower Shows I had attended previously. Hampton Court is advertised as the younger brother of Chelsea, more spread out and more informal that the very tightly packed Chelsea grounds.

Hampton Court palace is a short 30 minute train ride from Waterloo (Zone 6 with your Oyster Card) followed by a short walk. It could not have been easier to get to the grounds. The only big question of the day was how much rain would the predicted forecast of "Showers" bring and how would that impact exploring the gardens. What my photos from the day don't betray is just how much it did rain. From shortly after arrival at 10am through about 3pm, the gardens were lovely watered with light mist, followed by drowned in torrential downpour, before finally the skies cleared up and the sun began to dry the flowers.

There were about 2 dozen show gardens of various sizes, from these huge garden layouts down to small urban garden vignettes. Some of the level of detail is amazing when you realize that everything in the gardens are constructed from scratch for the show - this rustic driveway with a crumbling retaining wall (you can't see the house they built for this garden) all "new".

Sometimes I am surprised by what works in a garden. This courtyard garden is very nice, but who would have thought that shocking pink walls would work?

Some of the smaller gardens (just a few feet across really) are more whimsical ideas....

Or cute modern representations of natures life..

I was impressed by this garden's use of cut tree trunks to make a river path through the garden.

This peaceful garden below was designed as a contemplative garden and was going to be relocated to the grounds of a hospice after the show for enjoyment by its patients.

The flower show is also a chance to see rare or new varieties of plants. The hospice garden featured a climbing trellis of "Princess Diana Clematis." In the cloudy wet day, the colors of this new variety of clematis really caught everyone's eye.

It would be an outdoor summer event in England without a spot of Pimm's. In fact Chelsea a few years ago was the first time I discovered my love for Pimm's. This liqueur is mixed with sparking lemonade and fresh fruit and mint to make a refreshing treat. Had it been a hot summer say, nothing would have been more refreshing. I will admit by lunch, I was completely soaked to the bone and my clothes were on the verge of never drying, but I still enjoyed my Pimm's nonetheless.

Some of the smaller "urban" gardens were very ingenious in using their limited space to create a true outdoor room feeling.

I really loved this stacked log wall.....

And my favorite garden of the day is one that I couldn't take a good photo of, unfortunately - although by the time I reached this garden, the sun had finally come out and the muddy fields of the show grounds started to dry up a bit. This garden made use of the space available by digging down and creating a tri-level garden with planting beds and a sunken dining area. I could easily have sat here with my Pimms and watched the world go by.

I am very glad to have had the opportunity to visit the Hampton Court Flower Show. I was disappointed that the larger show size didn't include more gardens. There were some great show tents highlighting special varieties of plants, flowers, and vegetables, but the bulk of the added space was turned over to commercial vendors. A large number of local residents were buying up plants in large quantities despite the weather. But on reflection, I still prefer the Chelsea flower show in terms of quality of the show gardens - there are usually 3-4 really "WOW" gardens at that show, and that wasn't the case here.

The other downside to traveling out to Hampton Court is that the show is so large, there was no time left to visit Hampton Court Palace and explore Henry VIII's castle or get lost in the hedge maze on the grounds. I now have a new item for my next visit's to do list!