I came to the Minho today–the lush, green, northern corner of Portugal–with trepidation. Its famous wine, Vinho Verde, has been one of my faves for decades: the white version is crisp, dry, crackling, low in alcohol, high in acid, ready to fight off rich shellfish or pork like nobody’s business.

My only Vinho Verde problems in the past had been on the American side of the equation: lots of Vinho Verdes in the U.S., over the years, have been either too sweet, or not fresh enough. But, I always carried the conviction that coming home to Portugal would provide the real stuff–and that a smart shopper in the U.S. can usually find it, as well.

Is this all about to change?

The fear began during my prep for this trip. I discovered that, as with most wines in the world, alcohol is on the rise in Vinho Verde. I don’t like that elevation anywhere, but it’s a special crisis for this wine, which has always derived part of its definition from low alcohol in the 8% to 9% range. Today, I discovered before arrival, Vinho Verde alcohol average is creeping up to 10, 11, even 12%. That’s still low, by today’s global standards…..but when does the wine stop being Vinho Verde as I understand and love it?

So here I am. And the first thing I notice is rows and rows of vines that look pretty much like vines anywhere–and not like the high, arching pergolas that I remember so well from my last visit 20 years ago, twelve feet or so above the ground.

“Where are the pergolas?” I ask. “Oh, that’s old Vinho Verde,” I’m told. “Everyone is re -planting in the more normal way.”

And I probe, and I discover that the pergolas shaded the grapes, kept their acids high, their sugars low, producing lightweight, evanescent wines.

“The wine is much better today,” I’m told–a statement I’ve heard around the world, which usually translates as “we’re making richer, thicker wines because that’s what the new wine drinker demands.”

Uh-oh,  amigo. Is this the end of Vinho Verde as I know it?

I went to lunch with representatives of Aveleda, one of the biggest players in the Vinho Verde game. We dined at a beautiful Relais & Chateaux hotel/restaurant, Casa da Calçada, in Amarante, on the eastern edge of the Vinho Verde zone. We were served creative food, with purportedly local/traditional touches, which made me worry that this whole region is going global: octopus terrine with oyster-flavored yogurt; a cappucino of blood sausage with lobster; salt cod with calve’s head terrine and smoked ham powder. But my focus was on the Vinho Verde. I knew we were drinking an upscale one–the Follies, from Aveleda, with specified grape varieties on the label (usually an indication that the wine will be more “serious.”) And I knew it was 11% alcohol, higher than the old average.

Would it hit my precious Vinho Verde spot?

Phew. I’m relieved to say that if all new Vinho Verdes can be like this, I have no worries whatsoever. It was stony. It was crisp. It was dry. It was lightweight. It was gorgeous with appropriate foods, and I daresay could even stand in as an oyster wine. Yes, it had a little more “character” than traditional Vinho Verde–a mineral-y character–but in my judgment this did not de-Vinho-Verde-ize it.

After lunch, the commercial director of Aveleda took me to one of his favorite spots in Amarante, a ham bar with the improbable name Adega Kilowatt. But the wonderful atmosphere was more candelight than light bulbs. This was Portugal! And the hams! And…..the Vinho Verde! Served out of rustic jugs, it was everything I want Vinho Verde to be: insanely fresh, shockingly acidic, as refreshing with food as wine could ever be.

So now I know two important things:

1) Despite modernization of the Vinho Verde industry, there is hope that the modern wines being made for export can still satisfy

2) If you want to be sure to taste the historic Vinho Verde… the Minho is waiting for you, at little bars and taverns, with wide open arms in old-fashioned shirts.

**For more posts about wine, check out the Dean & DeLuca wine blog.

I love poking through Dean & DeLuca’s produce department because I always discover exotic fruits that I’ve never seen or heard of before. Today, I picked up a brownish-purple orb–about the size of a plum–with a hard, thick rind: a mangosteen.

Gerardo, the SoHo produce manager, was quick to educate me about the fruit. He explained that the mangosteen’s hard rind is about ¼ inch thick and inedible. To open the fruit and access its soft, white, edible center, Gerardo used a knife to carefully cut around the fruit’s equator.

The white center has sections like an orange. While the smaller sections are seedless, the larger sections sometimes contain a bitter seed, which is unpalatable unless roasted. The fruit wedges were very slippery between my fingers, so I had to be careful not to drop them. The fruit is so soft and creamy that it seemed to melt in my mouth. The divine flavor is akin to strawberries and cream.

Mangosteens are not widely available within the United States. Native to Indonesia and Malaysia, they were banned from import until 2007 because it was believed that the fruit might harbor pests, which would endanger US crops. The mangosteens at Dean & DeLuca are harvested in Thailand and irradiated before importation. The next time you’re at Dean & DeLuca, I highly recommend you have a mangosteen… or 2 or 3 or 4. No other fruit for me is so luscious with such a precise balance of acid and sugar. The fruit is silky, juicy, sweet… absolute… paradise.

Knowing that annatto seeds, which come from the achiote tree, are popular in Asian, Caribbean and Latin American cuisines, I decided to incorporate them into a grilled shrimp recipe.

Annatto seeds are a beautiful brick-red color and have a mild, earthy scent. To balance the seeds’ earthiness, I combined them with other flavors—fragrant and aromatic—and made a rub. Rubs are an easy way to experiment with herbs and spices, and they can be used with pork, steak, fish, and even vegetables, especially hearty ones.

In a mortar & pestle, I ground the annatto with cumin and a mix of peppercorns and sea salt. Then, I added lime leaves and fresh ginger. Before grilling, I tossed the shrimp in fresh lime juice and olive oil and then in the rub. The result: The shrimp turned a glistening saffron color from the combination of annatto and cumin. And the taste: A tangy blend of aromatic and bold flavors.

This is a dish I’ll make again, and because I love the balance of sweet and spicy, next time I may even serve the shrimp with a dipping sauce like yuzu marmalade.

Annatto rubbed grilled shrimp
Serves 2

Ingredients
1 teaspoon annatto seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
½ teaspoon coarse salt
4 lime leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, finely chopped
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup fresh lime juice
1 lb.  shrimp, cleaned and deveined
Fresh, chopped parsley, as a garnish (optional)

Directions
In a mortar and pestle, grind annatto seeds, cumin seeds, peppercorns and salt until you achieve a powdery “rub” consistency.  Mix in lime leaves and fresh ginger. Toss shrimp in olive oil and lime juice, then toss with rub. Grill for about 2 minutes on each side, careful not to overcook. Garnish with chopped parsley, if desired.

I discovered an amazing espresso-drinking technique recently.

Clearly, I have too much time on my hands… but these are the things I live for!

Stage One of the epiphany occurred when I learned an organoleptic fact: the first taste of an espresso is the most bitter-tasting. Why? That first taste forces the brew to lock down your taste receptors; their ability to perceive bitterness is temporarily diminished once a sip of espresso has washed over them.

The second, third and fourth sips (if it takes you that many to finish your cup) are not without bitterness, but the bitterness seems so much more in balance, so much more pleasurable after the first sip.

Then came Stage Two of my discovery. Trying to minimize that initial bitter blast, I started a new cup by sipping only the crema off the top, in small quantities–which, I noticed, has less bitterness than the black brew below! But would that crema-starter work as a setter-upper, diminishing the bitterness of the rest of the cup?

Yes. Absolutely. My second taste was now balanced, as always… but the first taste was pleasurable too. They say “no pain, no gain”–but in gastronomic situations, I do like to control the pain wherever possible.

At TWG Tea, we are extremely passionate about sharing our knowledge of fine teas and are proud to have become a resource for tea lovers.

Today, tea is no longer just an afternoon staple. The finest teas are savored throughout the day–paired with food or enjoyed on their own–to celebrate a moment, heal the spirit, or indulge in the delicate nuances of a particular variety or blend. The great variety of experiences tea can offer is made more remarkable when you consider that all tea is derived from the same Camellia sinensis tea plant.

Preparing fine teas
To get the best flavor out of your tea, pay attention to the quality of your water (spring water which is low in calcium & sodium is best), the temperature of the water (water should simmer, but never boil), the amount of tea you use, the type of filter, and the infusion time.

Pre-heat your teapot and a 100% cotton tea filter by rinsing them with simmering water. Place a teaspoon of tea (roughly 2.5 g) per cup in the warm filter and let it stand for a few moments, allowing the steam to develop the leaves’ aroma. Pour simmering water on the tea so that all the leaves are covered. Let the tea steep. (See below for steeping instructions according to tea type.) It is then essential to remove the filter containing the leaves. The tea must then be stirred and finally poured.

It is best to drink fine whole leaf teas such as ours after they have cooled for a few moments after steeping, so that your palate can better appreciate their subtle, intricate flavors.

Steeping instructions
Blended specially for Dean & DeLuca, the Dean & DeLuca Tea uses one of the world’s rarest and most expensive teas, white tea, blended with green tea, herbs, fruits and flowers. Because white tea is totally unprocessed, it requires a longer infusion time than other teas, and should steep for 3 to 4 minutes.

Evocative of the sparkling city that never sleeps, our New York Breakfast Tea is a couture masterpiece of inviting whole leaf Assam blended with rich and malty sweetness. Because black tea is fully oxidized, it should steep between 2 to 3 minutes, depending on how strong you like your tea.

Geisha Blossom Tea, transports you. This delightfully fruity tea can be enjoyed at any time of the day and is perfect paired with desserts. Because green teas are not oxidized, they should steep for 3 minutes.

Our 100% naturally theine free red tea blends can be served warm or iced. Red of Africa Tea, for example, combines South Africa red tea with sweet spices and marigold blossoms. Red tea can steep between 3 to 4 minutes and will never become bitter no matter how long it is steeped.

Some friends and I were joking this week: in the wake of one of 2009’s most important trends, still gathering force, we have become… porkatarians!

Everywhere you turn these days, in hip urban centers, restaurateurs and merchants are expressing themselves… in pork! Particularly cured pork.

It’s probably the case that Mario Batali jump-started the trend. Ten years ago or so he started touting, in addition to the usual Italian salumi offerings, a product he cautiously called “white prosciutto”–which is actually cured pork fat, more accurately known as “lardo.” The “white prosciutto” thing… like telling a child that cow’s tongue is actually, er, beef… has gone away. All trendy Mediterranean restaurants now openly offer lardo, and lardo opened the floodgates. “Cripes… if we’re eating cured pork fat… we can eat anything!”

And we do. Stores and restaurants everywhere have bulked up on their salumi offerings, with both imported and domestic products. Spain played its own role in this unfolding drama, with the American discovery that Spanish ham is among the world’s greatest. Even French-style pork specialties– charcuterie –are having their day in the sun, with major French chefs opening pork-oriented establishments.

The only problem concerns the various “health” agencies, who think some of these products are “too much in the sun.” The New York City Department of Health, for example, has put a huge damper on the “house-made” side of this boomlet by forcing stores and restaurants who wish to cure their own pork to keep these products below 41 degrees. Everyone in the biz knows that the flavors of salumi and jamon don’t bloom unless they can age at 60 degrees, as they’ve done forever in Europe.

Oh well. Maybe the next wave will follow the relaxation of the squeaky-clean bureaucrats. For now… the domestic and imported pork products at top stores and restaurants is, following the demand, better than ever.

With March being National Peanut Month, I felt inspired yesterday to bake some of my Grandma Mary’s “peanut butter blossom cookies.” My grandma used to make these cookies for my brother and me every Christmas. But, then baking became difficult for her in her old age. Fortunately, she shared her recipe with me, so I can make her “blossom” cookies myself whenever I have a craving for them.

This recipe is a good one to make with kids because it’s simple and no sharp knives or mixing blades are required. Right when these cookies come out of the oven, my grandma tops each one with a Hershey’s kiss. I decided to substitute more luxurious chocolate and topped my cookies with Valrhona Tanariva 33% milk chocolate.

The peanut butter in the dough makes for a crumbly cookie. Because I like my peanut butter cookies crunchy, I pressed down the cookie dough with a fork after placing it onto a baking sheet. If you like your cookies softer and chewier, simply place the balls of dough on a baking sheet.

“Peanut Butter Blossom Cookies”
48 cookies

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar (Plus 2 tbsp. reserved)
1/2 cup brown sugar (Pack down sugar in measuring cup)
1/2 cup shortening
1/2 cup creamy peanut butter (smooth or chunky will work)
1 egg
2 tbsp. milk
1 tsp. vanilla extract
48 milk chocolate kisses or squares

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine all ingredients (except milk chocolate candy) in a large mixing bowl. Mix by hand until dough forms. Scoop dough using a teaspoon and roll into balls with your hands. Roll balls in reserved granulated sugar. Place on  ungreased cookie sheet. (I pushed down the dough with a fork to give my cookies a crispy, crunchy texture.) Bake at 375 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Immediately top each cookie with a milk chocolate candy. Press the candy down gently to secure it in place. Let cool. Enjoy!

Here’s the skinny on the competitors.

Name: Julia Teylor Smirl
Birthplace: Huntington, West Virginia
Dean & DeLuca location: 1 Rockefeller Plaza Café
Dean & DeLuca barista since: May 2009
Favorite espresso drink: Soy cappuccino with an extra shot
My interest in coffee began when I… started taking classes from the Counter Culture crew. Their knowledge is awesome and infectious.
In addition to making awesome cappuccinos I… write and draw comic books!
Advice to my fellow baristas: In art school, we were always told “your first thousand drawings are your worst ones.” I think the same holds true for latte art, cappuccinos, and everything worth making, really. The point being… intense practice is the only way to immense success… and awesome rosettas. Also, no matter who or how manly you are, 15 shots (of espresso, naturally) in a day is never ever a good idea.

Name: Heidi Anna Heath
Birthplace: Johnson County, KS
Dean & DeLuca location: Leawood, KS
Dean & DeLuca barista since: Sept. 2008
Favorite espresso drink: Soy latte
My interest in coffee began when I… drank my first mocha
Advice for my fellow baristas: Let the process of making espresso drinks transport you; enjoy the experience!

Name: Lizbeth Rocio Mejia
Birthplace: Zacatecas, Mexico
Dean & DeLuca location: St. Helena, CA
Dean & DeLuca barista since: May 24, 2006
Favorite espresso drink: Mocha
My interest in coffee began when I… made my first latte. My interest developed more when we were introduced to Counter Culture Coffee.
In addition to making awesome cappuccinos I… love making latte art.
Advice for my fellow baristas: Every drink should be one you’re proud of.

Name: Adam “danger” Spencer
Birthplace: Kansas City, KS
Dean & DeLuca location: Leawood, KS
Dean & DeLuca barista Since: 2008
Favorite espresso drink: Macchiato
My interest in coffee began in 2005. I was eating dinner on the Plaza with a friend. We ordered a dessert, and she got a cup of coffee. I never liked coffee before, but she offered me a taste, and I fell in love with it instantly. I remember it was The Roasterie 40 Sardines blend. I was hooked from then on.
In addition to making awesome cappuccinos I… sing. I always have a song in my head, and I am not shy about sharing it with everyone.  Opening shifts are the best because I can get in a good hour of singing before the market opens. My co-workers love it… I think.
Advice for my fellow baristas: Eat more bananas.

Name: Maria Chapides
Birthplace: Queens, New York
Dean & DeLuca location: SoHo
Dean & DeLuca barista since: October 2009
Favorite espresso drink: Semi dry cappuccino
My interest in coffee began when I… started working and needed coffee to function. To keep things interesting, I wanted to explore a wide variety of coffee.
In addition to making awesome cappuccinos I… love pulling shots of espresso to see the creme.
Advice for my fellow baristas: Make drinks that you would want to drink. If it doesn’t meet your own drinking standards it won’t meet your customers’.

Name: Irena Cunbow (pronounced Raney)
Birthplace: Seattle, WA
Dean & DeLuca location: New York Times Café (Home court advantage??)
Dean & DeLuca barista since: November 2009
Favorite espresso drink: Macchiatone (Basically a cappuccino, but with less milk.)
My interest in coffee began when I… managed a student coffee house in college.
In addition to making awesome cappuccinos I… work in theater.
Advice for my fellow baristas: Always be proud of what you’re serving and serve with a smile

Instant Szechuan! That’s my response to the general decline of quality in oh-so-many neighborhood Chinese restaurants. Once upon a time, you could order up, say, shredded chicken in garlic sauce, and expect great chew, great flavor, just the right amount of sauce… and plenty of chicken! Nowadays, you have to pick the gristly chicken bits out of the celery shreds, and cope with a serious overdose of oil.

I know, I know… there is quality out there. But not to the extent it was when Szechuan hit the scene, a few decades back.

So my defensive posture is simple. Rather than the “quick” take-out, or the “quick” local restaurant visit… I achieve an even quicker dinner right on my range, that’s also much better.

The secret of Instant Szechuan is this combo, mixed in a bowl:

*one tablespoon hot chili bean sauce (darkish-brown, find in any Chinese grocery)

*one teaspoon hot chili garlic sauce (reddish, find in any Chinese grocery)

*two teaspoons Heinz chili sauce, or ketchup (they really use it in Chinese kitchens!)

Start cooking by sautéeing (in a wok or sauté pan) a tablespoon of finely minced ginger, a tablespoon of finely minced garlic, and a tablespoon of finely minced scallions in a little oil. Chinese chefs often like to cook the proteins in another pan as a texture-enhancer… but for Instant Szechuan, all you need to do is toss about a cup of shredded meat, or fish, or whole small shrimp, in the ginger-garlic-scallion pan over high heat. Cooks quickly. Add the sauce you made, toss again… and you will have one Chinese take-out carton less to deal with!

The word nigella might bring to mind an image of the cookbook author Nigella Lawson, but in fact, nigella is the name of a not-widely-known spice that’s grown in India and Egypt. These triangular, jet-black seeds are often confused with black sesame and onion seeds, but nigella is distinct with its own unique flavor: smoky and mildly bitter.

In my quest to incorporate this unusual spice into a recipe, I followed suit with how it’s frequently used in India and Turkey: sprinkled on flatbread. It’s such a pleasure to have warm, just-grilled bread for nibbling with dips, spreads, cheese and charcuterie: an ideal lunch, in my opinion.

Although this flatbread recipe is simple, making any kind of dough does require time and attention. Therefore, I suggest making it when you have a long stretch of time to keep your eye on the dough. If you want to begin preparing it in the evening, however, you can refrigerate the dough, covered, overnight. And one other tip: roll out the dough so it’s on the thin side, that way it won’t come out too thick and chewy.

Once the dough has risen and you’re ready to cook, have your favorite dips and snack foods ready to serve, so you can enjoy the bread while it’s still warm. I made sweet potato/chickpea purée and tzatziki, a Greek yogurt dip, to enjoy with my nigella seed flatbread.

Flatbread with nigella seeds
Makes 4 pieces

Ingredients
1 ½ cups warm water
½ teaspoon active dry yeast
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon nigella seeds (or as desired)

Make the Bread
Mix water and yeast in a large bowl. Let stand 5 minutes. Gradually pour in 2 cups of the flour and stir to combine. Stir for about 1 minute to form a sponge. Let stand, covered (I use a kitchen towel), for an hour and a half.

Oil a bowl with olive oil. When the hour and a half has passed, place the sponge in the bowl of a stand mixer. Use the dough hook on medium speed. Add the salt and oil, then add the flour, slowly, to form the dough. Remove from bowl and knead together. Place in the oiled bowl and let rise, about 3 hours. Divide dough into 4 balls, let rise again for ½ hour, and then roll out as desired. Grill in a pre-heated griddle pan or cook in a frying pan for about 2-3 minutes on each side. Sprinkle dough with desired amount of nigella seeds.