Recommendations & Design Suggestions for any Type of Landscape

Hydrangeas are must-have garden plants that are hard to miss and even harder to resist! These substantial, shrubby plants feature large heads composed of many smaller flowers and come in a wide range of colors and styles. Even though Hydrangeas lose their leaves in the Fall, they provide lots of peak season interest as they begin blooming in early Summer with massive flowers that stick around until the frost.

Though commonly grown in wet shady gardens, the beauty of Hydrangeas isn’t confined to any one style of landscape. Thanks to the diversity found within this exceptional group of plants, there are Hydrangeas that are well-suited to any condition and aesthetic of landscape. We’ve put together collections of Hydrangeas that are perfectly suited to the Pacific Northwest’s most common types of landscapes. No matter what your design style is, your level of gardening expertise, or the conditions of your garden, there truly is a Hydrangea out there for you!

1. Sunny Garden Hydrangeas
   
2. Wet, Shady Garden Hydrangeas
3. Naturalistic Woodland Garden Hydrangeas
4. Hedging or Traditional Garden Hydrangeas
   
5. Container Garden Hydrangeas
   
6. Cutting Garden Hydrangeas

Best Hydrangeas for Sunny Gardens

Hydrangeas might not be the first plant that comes to mind when selecting a blooming shrub for an exposed and sunny garden. However, most varieties of Panicle Hydrangea are well-suited to growing in full sun environments, provided they are well-watered leading into heat waves.

Panicle Hydrangeas have smaller leaves and sport humongous, cone-shaped clusters of flowers that emerge green and then transform from white to shades of mauvy pink, depending on the variety. We adore the classic Limelight Hydrangea for its grand size and dominating appearance, especially when planted en masse as a hedge. But if a smaller Hydrangea is more your speed, look no further than Little Hottie, a new introduction bred to handle the hottest of climates with grace.

Our Bohemian Design Guide uses Panicle Hydrangeas to add structure and height to an otherwise relaxed landscape, full of soft, sweeping grasses and pastel Summer-blooming perennials like Agastache, Scabiosa, and Guara.

Best Hydrangeas for Wet, Shady Gardens

Many types of Hydrangeas are perfect for the wet shade conditions found in dark, low-laying areas of the garden or north-facing beds. In fact, their water-loving nature is built right there in the name: Hydra = water!

To make sure you’re selecting a Hydrangea that will thrive in darker, wetter areas, select large-leaved types like Mophead Hydrangeas or Smooth Hydrangeas. Mopheads area a huge group that encompasses the perpetually popular Endless Summer Series, prized for their consistent reblooming. The latest shade and water-loving Hydrangea that has caught our eye is Pop Star, a dwarf introduction with dozens of color-changing blooms that respond to the pH of your soil! And everyone loves the larger-than-life flowers of Annabelle, a stellar Smooth Hydrangea.

For a winning combination that will look phenomenal during the Spring, Summer and Fall, co-plant Mophead and Smooth Hydrangeas with Hostas, Lady Ferns, and Japanese Forest Grass.

Best Hydrangeas for Naturalistic Woodland Gardens

Woodland gardens set beneath towering Doug Firs can be challenging areas to landscape with the bodacious colors of water-loving Mophead Hydrangeas. Fortunately, even spaces that are better suited to a less-manicured aesthetic can benefit from the beauty of Hydrangeas.

Oakleaf Hydrangeas are our favorite recommendation for anyone who wants to add interesting, textured foliage, beautifully elegant flowers, and stunning fall color to their woodland gardens. In particular, we like the sturdy nature of Jetstream, a larger variety of Hydrangea quercifolia. And for an easy-care, compact option, Pee Wee Oakleaf Hydrangea simply can’t be beat!

Take inspiration from our Pacific Northwest Design Guide and plant Oakleaf Hydrangeas alongside other favorites from our Composed Color Palette, including Pink Frost Hellebore, Deer Fern, and Blue Mouse Ears Hosta.

Best Hydrangeas for Hedging or Traditional Gardens

Often when people think of classic Hydrangea gardens, it’s the large, bluey purple mopheads planted in neat lines that first spring to mind. Traditional gardens make excellent use of these generous, blooming shrubs as a hedging plant hemmed in by evergreen shrubs like boxwood or boxwood alternatives.

While any Hydrangea can be planted in rows for a beautiful, high-impact flowering hedge, we love the saturated pinks and purples and shorter stature that Summer Crush, our best-selling reblooming Hydrangea, brings to formal landscapes. If your tastes lean more towards cooler tones, consider BloomStruck, which grows to a similar compact size and will rebloom in blues and purples.

To further emphasize a Jewel-toned plant palette, complete the look with selections from our Traditional Design Guide, including The President Clematis on obelisks or trellises, a neat low hedge of Boxleaf Euonymus, and a low carpet of annual color like Crystal Palace Lobelia.

Best Hydrangeas for Container Gardens

Hydrangeas aren’t typically the go-to choice for container gardens, as they often have watering demands that are better suited to in-ground plantings. However, newer introductions of Hydrangeas make stunning and unexpected feature plants in container gardens!

Our hearts have been captured by the pretty pretty pink blooms of Mini Mauvette Hydrangea, which is a new Smooth Hydrangea that was bred to bring color and compact size to this incredibly popular group of Hydrangeas. And for someone looking for a chic and striking centerpiece to an elevated container, Fairytrail Bride Cascase Hydrangea, a white, trailing variety, is sure to delight.

When coplanting Hydrangeas in containers, we prefer to keep it simple, selecting trailing, shade-loving plants like Licorice Plant or Silver Falls Dichondra and adding a Heuchera or two to accentuate the color palette.

Best Hydrangeas for Cutting Gardens

While many cutting gardens focus on single-season annuals and a few classic plants like Roses, we think that every cut flower garden should include a Hydrangea! Not only do the fresh, large flowers make dramatic and elegant arrangements, the dried flower heads are also incredibly versatile and useful in displays year-round!

Though many Hydrangeas can be used in floral arrangements, our favorite flowers to work with are from the paniculata, or Panicle group of Hydrangeas. These plants are better able to withstand sunny garden conditions, tolerate cutting well, and have a long vase life without blooming. Quick Fire Panicle Hydrangeas combine the delicate emergence of Lacecap Hydrangeas with the sturdiness and stunning ombre color palette common in the Panicle group. And for classic Panicle look on a smaller plant, consider using Little Lime Hydrangea in your garden.

Hydrangeas make great cut flowers and were our shrub of choice in our 7 Best Cut Flowers for Long-Season Blooms blog. Plant them alongside other cut flower favorites like Roses, Honeysuckle, and Cosmos for a landscape bed that looks complete and cohesive, and provides you with weeks and weeks of flowers all Summer long!

No matter the size, style, or conditions of your garden, there is a Hydrangea out there for you! This surprisingly versatile group of plants are easy to grow and will reward you with an incredibly long season of beautiful blooms. Learn more about Hydrangea varieties and maintenance on our blog, and visit Dennis’ 7 Dees Garden Centers to browse our selection of new arrivals and tried and true favorites. We can’t wait to help you find the Hydrangea that is perfect for your garden!

Hydrangeas offer masses of blooms all summer long and are among some of the hardiest low-maintenance shrubs for Pacific Northwest gardens.

With many species and cultivars, these deciduous shrubs start blooming in summer and continue up to the frost. This large group of plants includes different flower forms, climbing varieties, dwarf cultivars, plants with great fall color, and even selections with tolerance for sun and drought. The long-lasting blooms of hydrangeas even attract bees and butterflies! Hydrangeas are gorgeous in fresh flower arrangements, and the flowers can be dried to last for years to come.

• Bigleaf Hydrangeas
• Panicle Hydrangeas
• Oakleaf Hydrangeas
• Climbing Hydrangeas
• Smooth Hydrangeas
• Hydrangea Pruning
• Hydrangea Planting & Care

Mophead Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

Perhaps the most iconic hydrangeas, mophead hydrangeas are also known as bigleaf or lacecap hydrangeas and are fast-growing, rounded shrubs that begin blooming in early Summer with large flower clusters frequently lasting until Fall. Mature size varies by cultivar and can range from 2-3 feet up to 6-8 feet tall and wide. Hydrangea macrophylla prefers dappled sun or partial shade and thrives with regular moisture—you might say these put the “hydra” in Hydrangea!

Classic Mophead Hydrangeas are known for their ability to change color based on the pH of the soil (acid soil = blue flowers; alkaline soil = pink flowers; white flowers tend to remain white), though some new varieties can stay true to color. Old-fashioned varieties of H. macrophylla flower on previous year’s growth, making them sometimes tricky to prune, but next generation cultivars like the ‘Endless Summer’ series bloom on both old and new wood, extending the bloom season.

Below are some garden-worthy old-fashioned and new introductions of Hydrangea macrophylla:

• 'Endless Summer' Hydrangea – This cultivar was the first to offer reliable, repeating mophead blooms in light blue-violet coloration with sturdy stems; 3-4 feet tall by 4-5 feet wide.
• 'BloomStruck' Hydrangea – Prized for its repeat-blooming rose-pink to blue-violet mophead flowers, sturdy stems, disease resistance, and heat tolerance; features red-purple stems and great Fall color; 3–4 fet tall by 4–5 ft wide.
• 'Blushing Bride' Hydrangea – Has big, round, pure white semi-double flowers that mature to blush pink or soft blue; compact shrub with stronger stems; grows to 3–6 feet tall and wide.
• 'Nikko Blue' Hydrangea – One of the most popular and widely recognized varieties of bigleaf hydrangea; produces large, rounded flower clusters in intense blue color (prefers acidic soil conditions); rapidly grows to at least 6 feet tall and wide.
• 'Summer Crush' Hydrangea – A smaller mophead variety suitable for containers; grows 18–36 inches tall and wide; profusion of big raspberry red or neon purple blooms.

Summer Crush Hydrangea

Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

Panicle hydrangeas are low-maintenance and fast-growing large deciduous shrubs that are hardy from Zones 3 to 8. They feature elongated, cone-shaped blooms in white or ivory that last from mid-Summer into Fall and often change colors with age, usually finishing with shades of pink. Panicle hydrangeas are generally more tolerant of sun and heat compared to other species, and recent introductions have focused on drought-tolerance.

Panicle Hydrangeas are gorgeous when used in mass plantings like borders or hedges. Tree-form standards can be used in landscapes or pots to provide height and structure. Single plants or small groups are lovely when paired with grasses, lavender, or summer perennials, especially in Cottage Gardens. Panicle Hydrangeas also make striking cut flowers!

Here are some of our favorite Panicle Hydrangea varieties:

• 'Limelight' Hydrangea – Highly regarded for large, cone-shaped flower heads that emerge lime green in mid-Summer and gradually turn creamy white and then blush pink as they mature until frost; known for strong stems and large stature, growing 6–8 feet tall and wide. A compact version of 'Limelight', 'Little Lime' Hydrangea grows to 3–5 feet tall by 3–5 feet wide and is perfect for smaller gardens or containers.
• 'Diamond Rouge' Hydrangea – A relatively new introduction, 'Diamond Rouge' boasts striking red stems and large, elongated flower clusters that start white and age to a rich, deep pinkish-red; grows 4–5 feet tall by 3–4 feet wide.
• 'Vanilla Strawberry' Hydrangea – Enormous, cone-shaped flower clusters start creamy white, gradually changing to blush pink and finally to deep strawberry red. New blooms emerge as older blooms change color, giving the plant a multicolored effect in late Summer and early Fall; grows 6–7 feet tall by 4–5 feet wide. For smaller spaces, try 'Strawberry Sundae' Hydrangea which grows 4–5 feet tall by 3–4 feet wide.
• 'Quick Fire' Hydrangea – Blooms about a month before other panicle hydrangea varieties and flowers every year! Flowers open white then turn pink as summer progresses. This super hardy shrub grows to about 6–8 feet tall and wide. For smaller gardens, try 'Little Quick Fire' Hydrangea, which grows 3–5 feet tall and wide.

Quick Fire Hydrangea

Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

Oakleaf hydrangeas are upright, coarsely textured, large shrubs known for their oak leaf-shaped foliage. Later-blooming than macrophylla types, flowers tend to be cone-shaped and creamy white as they emerge in mid-Summer, slowly aging to shades of pink into Fall. The leaves have a colorful display in the Fall and turn orange, red, and burgundy in Autumn, and the bark peels with maturity, adding seasonal interest. These shrubs grow best in dappled or partial sun, but can tolerate full sun if given plenty of water.

These are some of the best Oakleaf Hydrangea varieties for your garden:

• 'Jetstream' Hydrangea – Dense, compact shrub, growing to 5–6 feet tall by 4–5 feet wide; shiny dark green foliage is resistant to leaf spot and turns orange-red in Fall; white flowers on sturdy stems bloom in early Summer and age to pink; tawny-brown bark adds winter interest.
• 'Pee Wee' Hydrangea – A compact dwarf cultivar ideal for smaller gardens or containers, growing to 3–4 feet tall and wide; feature large, showy flower clusters that start white and mature to soft pink; excellent fall foliage color.
• 'Munchkin' Hydrangea – Compact and well-suited for smaller landscapes at 3–4 feet tall and wide; enjoy a profusion of robust flower clusters that open white and age to pink on sturdy, upright stems; foliage turns brilliant mahogany in fall.
• 'Ruby Slippers' Hydrangea – This variety stands out for its compact size and vibrant flower color; cone-shaped flower clusters open white and gradually turn deep pink, resembling ruby-colored slippers; foliage turns a stunning burgundy in the fall.

Oakleaf Hydrangea

Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris)

For shady, narrow areas with some vertical space, Climbing Hydrangeas are a perfect fit.  Climbing Hydrangeas are self-clinging vines that can climb up walls, fences, or other structures. Slow to get established, this unique vine can eventually scale heights of 60–80 feet but can be maintained at smaller sizes with regular pruning.

Climbing hydrangeas offer fragrant, lace-cap style flowers in late Spring or early Summer, as well as attractive foliage, providing vertical interest and a distinct charm. Older stems develop a peeling texture and a cinnamon color. These hydrangeas can grow in partial sun or shade with adequate moisture, and do best on surfaces with east or north exposures.

Here are the top Climbing Hydrangea varieties that we prefer:

• 'Miranda' Hydrangea – Known for its variegated foliage with yellow to creamy white margins, this vigorous vine clings to walls and can also be used as a groundcover; showy, fragrant, white blooms in late Spring to early Summer; features reddish brown bark for winter interest.
• 'Pétiolaris' Hydrangea – This is the species variety, often simply referred to as climbing hydrangea or Hydrangea petiolaris; features showy white flower clusters, heart-shaped dark green leaves, and exfoliating bark, adding winter interest to the vine.

Climbing Hydrangea

Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)

Smooth Hydrangea is a rounded shrub featuring enormous white flowers (up to 12 inches across) blooming June through September on new wood. Hydrangea arborescens grows 3–5 feet tall and wide and is best cut back in late Fall or early Spring. Smooth hydrangeas love water and grow best in dappled sun or part shade, but will take more sun with sufficient moisture. This Hydrangea is native to the eastern United States.

We recommend this variety of Smooth Hydrangea:

• 'Annabelle' Hydrangea – One of the most well-known smooth hydrangea varieties; features exceptionally large, rounded flower heads composed of numerous white florets; known for its ability to produce abundant blooms and has sturdy stems that prevent the flowers from flopping over; resistant to slug and snail damage.

How to Prune Hydrangeas

Faded flowers on hydrangeas are best removed in Fall when the plant is done blooming, and it’s okay to remove some of the oldest twiggy branches to the ground each year or two or prune lightly to retain overall shape. To improve the structure on very old and overly leggy classic Mophead Hydrangeas, up to one third of the old stems can be cut back to the ground.

Heavy, aggressive pruning can ruin the flowering for the following year in many varieties. (‘Annabelle’ is the exception and can be cut to the ground in late Winter or early Spring). Consult an experienced pruner or seek local, expert advice before attempting substantial pruning.

Before major pruning is done, it's important to know the three ways in which hydrangeas flower:

1. Hydrangeas that flower on old wood (branches that have been on the plant since the Summer before current growing season)
2. Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood (branches that develop during current growing season)
3. Hydrangeas that flower on new and old wood (require little to no pruning!)

Method 1

For hydrangeas that bloom on old wood – Prune only in the Summer before late August (before buds are set for next year). These hydrangeas produce flower buds in late August, September, or October for the following Summer’s blooms. If those stems are removed in Fall, Winter, or Spring, the bloom buds will be removed and there may be little or no flowers the following Summer. Includes: Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Nikko Blue’ or ‘Glowing Embers’, Hydrangea quercifolia

Method 2

For hydrangeas that flower on new wood – Prune in late Summer or Fall after blooming or in Winter when dormant. Reduce growth as needed, remove the smallest branches, and prune to address both the size and shape of the plant. These shrubs should not be pruned in the Spring once new growth begins flower because you will cut off the flower buds. Includes: Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’, Hydrangea paniculata

Method 3

For hydrangeas that flower on both new and old wood – Prune only if they’re getting too large for the space or to remove old flowers. The best time to prune is after they flower in late Summer. If you prune beyond late August, you will risk removing flower buds that are developing on current branches. Includes: Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Endless Summer’

How to Plant & Care for Hydrangeas

Hydrangea Sun Exposure

Most species of hydrangea are tolerant of full sun if given adequate moisture, but they are not suggested for areas with reflective heat such as against a sunny wall or on a hot deck or patio. The best exposure is east-facing in morning sun with dappled, late day sun or afternoon shade. Hydrangeas will grow in total shade, but often only flower lightly, if at all. Hydrangea macrophylla cultivars are generally most sensitive to hot sun, while Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ and varieties of Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea quercifolia are more tolerant of sun and heat.

Hydrangea Soil Needs

Hydrangeas grow best in rich, well-draining soil—they do not like standing water or heavy clay soil conditions. They thrive in cool, coastal conditions, but if grown in sandy soil, watering may need to be done more frequently to avoid leaf scorch. Add organic soil amendments at planting time such as compost, peat moss, or decomposed manure to improve soil and create the rich, moist, well-draining conditions preferred. Mulch to keep roots cool and reduce water evaporation from soil surface—G&B Soil Building Conditioner makes a great mulch!

Flower color is affected by the pH of surrounding soil. Our native soil tends to be acidic; use a pH Soil Tester kit to check your native soil pH. Changing the color of hydrangea blooms can often take a few years to accomplish with more than one application necessary.

To change the pH of the soil, one must begin a full season or two before seeing desired results:

• Add lime to make soil more alkaline for pink blooms.
• Add aluminum sulphate (Hydrangea Blueing Formula) to make soil acidic for blue flowers.
• White flowers tend to remain white regardless of soil pH.

Hydrangea Water Requirements

Newly planted hydrangeas need regular watering until established (2–3 years)—water two to three times per week if planted in the ground and water daily if in containers. Established plants will grow best and flower more prolifically if given adequate moisture through the flowering period.

Supplemental watering done weekly during the hottest, driest months will keep plants looking their best. Plants exposed to hot, afternoon sun or reflective heat may show a partial wilt during mid-day sun, but this may not be an indication that they need water (I wilt in hot sun too!). Always check soil moisture levels before watering to avoid overwatering or causing disease problems.

Planting & Maintaining Hydrangeas

Ideal planting times for hydrangeas are Spring or Fall to give plants adequate time to establish healthy roots before the hot and dry conditions of Summer. It is best to fertilize hydrangeas at least twice per year—once in early Spring as new growth begins and again in late May or early June as flower buds appear and bloom cycle begins. A slow-release organic fertilizer such as G&B All Purpose Fertilizer is preferred over a synthetic such as 10-10-10, which often causes rapid growth and can lead to weak stems and floppy flowers.

Hydrangea Hardiness

Winter hardiness and cold tolerance of hydrangeas varies by species and cultivar. Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ (USDA Zones 3-9) is widely planted throughout the United States due to its ability to tolerate temperatures below 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Most macrophylla types are hardy in Zones 6–9, while panicle and oakleaf varieties are slightly more cold-tolerant.

Hydrangea Pests & Diseases

Hydrangeas are relatively insect and disease resistant but can be prone to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew or leaf spot if grown in poor conditions. Some newer varieties have been bred for increased disease resistance. Aphids, spider mites, and caterpillars are the main pests and can all be easily handled with a basic insecticidal soap or with Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew.

Long-blooming, easy-care, late-season color awaits you—stop in our garden centers to see these beauties for yourself!

Tropical plants infuse flamboyant drama and excitement into Pacific Northwest landscapes and container gardens. Available as Spring ends and Summer begins, Tropical plants arrive in our Portland-area nurseries from local Oregon growers looking full, fabulous, and ready for planting!

Tropical plants are at their best when they are used to add show-stopping height and unmatched lushness to your landscape, especially when used in tropical container gardens. With the right container combination, you can enclose your patio with their dramatic leaves and exotic flowers to create the perfect Summer getaway right in your own backyard!

For inspiration on how to use tropical plants in the garden, download our Tropical Landscape Design Guide. From foundational concepts to plant layouts and color palettes, our Landscape Design Guides will teach you everything you need to know to successfully design your own tropical escape, right here in the Pacific Northwest.

Not sure if the financial investment in short-season plants is worth the payoff of a high-impact tropical garden? Below, we share all our tips on how to make the most of these spectacular plants this season and how to care for them so that they come back next year.

1. Red Banana – Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’

With larger-than-life leaves, Red Bananas are the ultimate tropical thriller plant for containers. Each leaf is rich and green with burgundy red coloration along the outer edges and midvein, which makes them look equally elegant mixed with hot, splashy Summer annuals or cool-toned colors. Red Bananas are vigorous, fast-growing plants and can reach 6–8’ in a single Summer!

Typically grown as an annual and replanted each year, it is possible to overwinter Red Bananas with a bit of care, effort, and pre-planning. Either bring their container indoors to a bright, indoor space to live as a glorified houseplant for the season, or cut all foliage back, dig the plant up, wrap it in plastic, and store it in a cool, dark space like a basement, checking periodically to make sure it doesn’t completely dry out.

2. Hibiscus – Hibiscus rosa-sinensis 

Huge, dazzling flowers are the Summer-long feature of this iconic tropical plant. With a bloom that is often the emblem of a tropical getaway, the Hibiscus flower is showy and loud in blazing sunset colors from peach to orange to red with bicolor variants in between. Plant Hibiscus in containers or in the ground for a splashy, showy tribute to the tropics. Depending on the variety, a tropical Hibiscus will grow to a height of 2–5’ in a season.

To overwinter your tropical Hibiscus, you can bring the plant inside and treat it like a houseplant, albeit a higher-needs houseplant than most. Provide extra humidity, take care not to overwater the plant, and stay vigilant for insect pests like spider mites.

3. Bougainvillea – Bougainvillea glabra

Papery, angular blossoms in electric pinks, purples, and oranges smother Bougainvillea plants all Summer long. This woody, climbing vine grows quickly over trellises and arbors, or spill over the edges of large statement containers. Use Bougainvillea to infuse your outdoor living space with rich, brilliant color!

Bougainvillea is low-maintenance and fuss-free to grow in Pacific Northwest Summers, but does require some effort to overwinter in our climate. To overwinter, containerize your Bougainvillea and encourage it to go dormant by placing it in a cool location like a garage, shed, or basement with a window. Prune it back to reduce the volume of the plant and reduce water. Wait until Spring and start watering more regularly to encourage the plant to break dormancy and wake up again.

4. Elephant Ear – Colocasia fontanesii or Colocasia esculenta

Grown for its impressive, moody leaves, Colocasia is a fantastic tropical plant for foliage-forward landscapes and containers. Large, heart-shaped deep green, black, or variegated leaves often feature dark veining and stems that all come from ground level and hang suspended above companion plants. Elephant Ear is an ideal addition to a container garden or a landscape bed if your goal is to create rich, tropically-inspired drama.

Colocasia is a tuberous plant that should be overwintered in its dormant state. In the Fall, remove the plant from its position in the ground or container, cut off its leaves and rinse all dirt from the tubers. Let the tubers dry out for a few days before storing them in a used nursery container and covering with old, dry potting soil. Replant the tubers in Spring and water to encourage growth.

5. Canna Lily – Canna indica

Cannas offer gardeners seeking a tropical aesthetic the best of both worlds when it comes to foliage and flowers. With large, leathery leaves in a myriad of colors from green to bronze with some that have striking pinstripe variegation, Cannas instantly add a tropical feeling to a landscape bed or container. The flowers of Cannas are just as exciting as their leaves and provide Summer-long blooms in bright colors of yellow, orange, or red.

Arguably the hardiest of our favorite tropical plants, Cannas often overwinter in Pacific Northwest beds and containers without any additional help, though with our increasingly cold and harsh Winters, added protection is recommended. To reliably overwinter Cannas, wait until the first frost and cut them back to 8” above the soil, and either move the containers into a garage or dig them up and remove the bulk of the soil before repotting into dry, old potting soil for storage. Replant in containers or the ground in the Spring as soil temperatures rise.

6. Foxtail Asparagus Fern – Asparagus densiflorus ‘Meyeri’

Feathery, fine-cut foliage is the hallmark of this textural tropical plant. Foxtail Asparagus Fern has an upright form with soft texture and grass-green coloration that perfectly complements the bolder tropical textures of Bananas, Cannas, or Elephant Ear—it pairs beautifully with flowering plants in general. Grow in a pot alone to soften the base of statement containers, or as part of a larger tropical scheme in a bed or border.

Asparagus Ferns are often sold as houseplants and can be treated as such during winter months in the Pacific Northwest. Make sure your Asparagus Fern is potted in an attractive container with good drainage and high-quality potting soil. Provide humidity, bright indirect light, and regular water to avoid the fern yellowing and dropping leaves in the Winter. In the Spring, transition the Asparagus fern outdoors slowly and repot to help revive it for Summer patio-living.

7. Mandevilla – Mandevilla spp.

The twining, vining stems of Mandevilla produce beautiful blooms in white, peach, pink, or red. Perfect for bringing a touch of romance to your tropically-inspired planting, Mandevilla grows well in containers or in the ground with an obelisk, post, or trellis for support. Repeat blooms and easy care make this a must-grow tropical plant for softening hard edges or screening unwanted views.

To overwinter Mandevillas in the Pacific Northwest, they must be planted in containers and allowed to go dormant in a well-lit garage or basement. Once the leaves have dropped, you can cut the plant back to 12” above the soil line and provide occasional water to keep it from drying out completely. As the weather warms, bring your Mandevilla into a warmer, brighter location on a porch and water regularly to promote new growth.

Tropical plants add unmatched richness and interest to outdoor living spaces in the Summer. Come visit our Garden Centers in person to experience the luxurious leaf textures, colors, and stunning flowers for yourself! We’ll help you find the perfect plant to transform your space into a true tropical oasis this Summer. Download our Tropical Landscape Design Guide for even more ideas for how to use tropical plants in your garden.

Tropical landscapes and container gardens use big, bold foliage and dramatic flowers to create lush, immersive experiences and add excitement to any outdoor living area.

For gardeners in the Pacific Northwest, tropical container gardens are an ideal way to bring the look of a tropical getaway right into your patio or seating area. Even if your landscape has been set up in another garden design style, you can still experience all the larger-than-life fun of a tropical landscape through the use of oversized, tropical container gardens. And container gardens are a perfect fit for small gardens and patios because they grow quickly and can fill in the space in a manner of months!

Dennis’ 7 Dees just released its new Tropical Landscape Design Guide, full of tips for achieving this bold, maximalist style in the Pacific Northwest. Whether you garden in ground or in containers, our Tropical Design Guide can help you find inspiration with color palettes and comprehensive planting lists for achieving this iconic look.

To learn more about how to translate a tropical aesthetic into a container planting, we asked Jennifer Williams, our Vancouver Store Manager and lead Container Designer for her tips and tricks for designing a tropical container garden!

When you’re designing a tropical container garden, what is your approach?

Tropical container gardens should be big, bold, and colorful! You'll want to plant into a container that is large enough for the fast-growing tropical plants to have some room to impress. If the container is too small they won't grow as quickly or as large and you'll spend more time watering.

For it to really look like a tropical container garden, be sure to include large leaves and colorful foliage to break up all the green. Color coordinate floral and foliage elements within the container to avoid the confetti approach and make sure it looks cohesive and intentional.

What are your go-to plants for creating a tropical look?

What are your color considerations when creating a palette for a tropical container garden?

You can take a few different directions with color palettes, but I like to keep it vibrant no matter what. I typically you can't go wrong with really bright, warm tones like orange, hot pink, yellow, red—essentially the Exotic Plant Palette in the new Tropical Design Guide.

How can people with other styles of landscapes make the most of the tropical aesthetic using containers?

You can tailor the tropical feel to blend well with other aesthetics by adjusting color palette and the number of plant varieties. For example, a tropical container set into a modern landscape could have bold foliage without a lot of color (Colocasia, Potato Vine, bright green Coleus) with fewer varieties and repeated elements. But on the other hand, for a cottage garden I'd do a tropical container with an eclectic mix of colorful tropicals like Canna, Salvia, Coleus, and Lantana, with the addition of Heliotrope for fragrance!

What do you like best about tropical container gardens?

My favorite thing about tropical container gardens is that tropicals really put on a big outstanding show in a single season and it’s very freeing to not worry beyond the Summer as far as long-term compatibility of plants. It’s your chance to experiment without any real consequences of things not really working well together in the long run. If the plant combos or approach you took doesn’t work out, try something else next time!

Dennis' 7 Dee's Garden Centers stock stunning tropical plants from Spring till Fall. You can come visit to find inspiration from our in-store container plantings along with exciting new varieties to plant in your own garden!

Immerse your senses in the heady fragrance of blooming plants! Fragrant plants are essential to creating a welcoming Summer garden. Introducing spicy, sweet, or woody floral scents into the garden adds a new dimension to your outdoor space.

We’ve selected a list of seven must-have fragrant Summer-blooming plants for growing in the Pacific Northwest. From herbs and perennials to vines and evergreen shrubs, these fantastic plants are guaranteed to make your patio and garden your favorite destination as their memorable fragrance perfumes the air. Create an unforgettable atmosphere through the power of scent!

Want to harness the power of scent during each season of the year? Check out OUR CHART BELOW for year-round fragrance in the garden!

1. Star Jasmine – Trachelospermum jasminoides

Hundreds upon hundreds of starry white flowers blanket Star Jasmine from May into September. With a fragrance that is both sweet and floral with a slight woody undertone, Jasmine’s flowers perfume the air and are especially strong-smelling during the heat of the day.

Star Jasmine is an evergreen plant with twining, vining stems that get woody as they mature. Grow Star Jasmine in full to part sun on a trellis near an entryway or patio to create a luxurious welcome.

2. Honeysuckle – Lonicera sp.

Honeysuckle bursts into bloom in May as weather warms, offering a feast for the senses and for visiting pollinators like bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and moths. Nectar-rich flowers are clustered all over this hardy, semi-evergreen vine and change colors as they age from white to pink in ‘Peaches and Cream’ or ‘Goldflame’ and white to yellow in ‘Hall’s Honeysuckle’. The sweetly floral fragrance of Honeysuckle becomes increasingly intense as evening fades into night, and any branches brought indoors will give off their powerful perfume throughout the house.

Plant Honeysuckle where it will receive full sun and good airflow—a south-facing or west-facing location near an evening sitting area is the perfect location for a Honeysuckle vine.

3. Summer Daphne – Daphne x transatlantica

Though this small evergreen shrub may be classy, chic, and understated, the fragrance from Summer Daphne is absolutely arresting. With tiny clusters of dainty white and light pink flowers, Daphne's fragrance is dazzlingly sweet and floral with a hint of powdery, woody undernotes.

Blooming on and off from May into October, varieties like 'Eternal Fragrance' or variegated 'Summer Ice' offer gardeners an exceptionally easy, low-maintenance plant. Summer Daphne thrives in well-draining soil in full to part sun, and is an ideal plant for placing near walkways to greet guests.

4. Gardenia – Gardenia jasminoides

Intoxicating, warm floral fragrance emanates from each of the ivory white blooms of a Gardenia. A single flower is enough to perfume a room when brought indoors and floated in water. This small, broadleaf evergreen shrub boasts several excellent cultivars for Pacific Northwest gardens, including the profuse, single flowered ‘Kleim’s Hardy’ as well as the showier, larger blooms produced by ‘Frost Proof’ or ‘Sweet Star’.

Plant Gardenias in the ground where they will receive regular Summer water and in full sun near walkways or patios so the heat can intensify the fragrance during the day.

5. Rose – Rosa sp.

Classic Rose fragrance is timeless, elegant, and the best feature of many fabulous Rose varieties, both new and old. Ranging from spicy and woody through to floral or light, Roses possess a depth of aroma beyond any other plant group.

We particularly love the intense, iconic fragrance of Rugosa Roses and their related cultivars like ‘Snow Pavement’, along with the range of perfumes produced by the Hybrid Teas, English Roses, and Floribundas featured on our Best Roses of 2024 list and our Rose For Every Garden blog. Plant Roses wherever you can for maximum enjoyment—some varieties are well-suited to exposed slopes, cool shade, or even containers.

6. Lavender – Lavandula sp.

Lavender is beloved for the calming, soothing oil produced by both the leaves and flowers of this fantastic herb. Sturdy, drought-tolerant perennial subshrubs produce gorgeous wants of light purple flowers that bees adore. The fragrance of lavender is balanced between spicy and sweet, with a woody backbone that makes it grounding and a must-have for anyone seeking a little extra self-care from their garden.

Lavender likes to grow in hot, sunny environments where it receives good drainage. Plant lavender near a walkway where passersby will agitate it to produce more of its lovely scent.

7. Hummingbird Mint – Agastache sp.

Agastache is an herbaceous perennial that no fragrant garden should be without. With sweet, minty fragrance given off by both the grey-green leaves and the thousands of stunning tubular blooms, this edible plant is fantastic for attracting pollinators and garnishing salads, desserts, or Summer drinks.

One of the best features of long-blooming Agastache is the countless colors and tones that the flowers come in. For fans of soft, warm hues, weave ‘Pink Pearl’ or ‘Kudo’s Ambrosia’ into perennial borders. And for someone looking for a more dramatic punch, plants like Agastache ‘Sangria' or ‘Blue Fortune’ are fantastic in sunny containers or gardens alike.

Fragrant flowers don’t have to stop when Summer ends! You can achieve a gloriously fragrant garden all year long in the Pacific Northwest. Download our fragrant plant chart for aromatic plant suggestions during every month of the year.

Our Garden Centers are open all year round and we can help you find a fabulous new fragrant plant for Summer, Autumn, Winter, or Spring!

Lavender has an evocative fragrance that creates a feeling of calm and a sense of possibility.

Lavender has so many fantastic attributes to recommend it. It is a tough evergreen perennial that stands up to the hardship of drought and intense Summer sun better than many other garden plants. This sturdy, low-maintenance plant is also resistant to predatory pests, deer, and rabbits. Not to mention the iconic fragrance, which earned it a spot as one of our 7 Best Fragrant Plants for Summer Gardens.

Best of all, Lavender is a hardy evergreen that is equally at home in the Pacific Northwest as it is in its native Mediterranean. We think that every sunny garden deserves a Lavender plant!

How to Choose the Right Lavender Variety

Our Garden Centers stock dozens of excellent garden-worthy Lavender plants that are well suited to growing in sunny Oregon and Washington gardens. Though all Lavenders are evergreen, fragrant, and pest-resistant, some are better suited to culinary uses or extreme environments, so follow our guide to select the perfect Lavender for you!

1. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

English Lavender has a strong, sweet fragrance and is the preferred type for all edible and culinary uses thanks to its herbal, floral flavor. Plants are looser and long-blooming, and it works well in mixed garden borders.

• Best for: Cold Winters, strong fragrance, culinary use, co-planting with other perennials
• Hardy to: Zone 5
• Bloom time: June–July and reblooms September–October
• Form: Bushy plant with compact habit has sparse, narrow foliage; short, deeply fragrant flowers
• Suitable for: Borders and containers

Popular English Lavender Varieties:

• ‘Hidcote’ Lavender – Deep purple, compact (18–24")
• ‘Munstead’ Lavender – Pale lavender, early (12–18")
• ‘Platinum Blonde’ Lavender – Variegated foliage, compact habit (18–24”)

2. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia)

Lavandin has a rich, floral fragrance that holds very well long after the flowers have been cut and dried. This is the best type of lavender for cut flowers and crafts, and the attractive and very dense form makes it ideal for mass plantings.

• Best for: Long stems, dried bouquets, mass plantings, cut/dried flowers, oils
• Hardy to: Zone 6
• Bloom time: June–August
• Form: Larger, vigorous plants have larger foliage and a dense, busy habit; tall, deeply fragrant flower stalks carry a strong scent
• Best Lavender for: Crafting and cut flowers

Popular Lavandin Varieties:

• ‘Grosso’ Lavender – Heavy blooms, strong fragrance, dark indigo-purple color
• ‘Provence’ Lavender – Graceful habit, soft color, classic
• ‘Phenomenal’ Lavender – Cold-hardy and mildew-resistant

3. Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Spanish Lavender has a unique appearance that lends it to use in mass plantings or containers where the look can be enjoyed up close. Flowers and foliage are fragrant but are better suited to the landscape than for usage in crafts or culinary applications.

• Best for: Ornamental use, mass plantings, co-planting with other perennials, unique flower form
• Hardy to: Zone 7–8 only
• Bloom time: April–August
• Form: Dense, narrow foliage with an open habit; long-lasting, unusual flowers have distinctive “rabbit ear” bracts
• Suitable for: Containers

Popular Spanish Lavender Varieties:

• ‘Boysenberry Ruffles’ Lavender – Vivid pink-toned color with a compact form
• ‘Anouk’ Series Lavender – Compact and neat, each Anouk variant has different colors of flowerings including white flowers on ‘Silver Anouk'
• ‘Wings of Night’ Lavender – Long bloom season and exaggerated upper bracts

4. Fernleaf & Specialty Types (L. multifida, L. dentata)

Though less hardy and less common than English, Lavandin, or Spanish Lavender, specialty Lavender make a wonderful feature to a container or tea garden. As tender perennials hardy to Zone 9+, they are not cold-hardy and should be overwintered indoors or grown as annuals in cooler climates. The lacy foliage of Fernleaf and French Lavender, combined with the nearly continuous bloom in warm months, make them a welcome addition to a collector's garden, particularly when grown in containers.

The best lavender variety for your needs really depends on your personal garden goals!

• Cold-hardy and dependable - English Lavender
• Fragrant dried bouquets - Lavandin
• Showy container display - Spanish Lavender
• Culinary herb - English Lavender
• Large landscape impact - Lavandin
• Hot, protected corner - Spanish Lavender

Tips for Planting Lavender

In general, the lifespan of Lavender is fairly short—expect to replace plants about every 5–7 years. Lavender performs much better in the ground than in containers but can be grown for one to two seasons in a large container before being replanted in the landscape. Lavender achieves its drought-tolerant nature by establishing a large root network which will quickly fill containers, making it a short-lived container plant but an excellent choice for hot sunny, in-ground beds.

Lavender is best planted in late Spring to early Summer once soil is warm and dry. The site should have full sun (at least 6 hours per day) so west and south-facing locations are ideal.

Lavender prefers soils that have good drainage—heavy clay soils will require amending with gravel or pumice to loosen soil. Do not amend soils with compost or nitrogen-rich soil blends, as this can cause Lavender to get long and spindly. For dense, fragrant Lavender plants, be sure soils do not hold on to excess water.

Plant slightly above grade to prevent crown rot. Because of its preference for good drainage, Lavender is an excellent plant for sunny slopes. Avoid excessive use of bark or compost as a top-dressing, and mulch instead with gravel or small stones.

Companion Plants for Lavender

Lavender pairs beautifully with other drought-tolerant, sun-loving plants, but some of the most attractive combinations are with the following hardy perennials, herbs, and grasses:

• Companion Herbs: Rosemary, Thyme
• Companion Perennials: Agastache, Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Yarrow, Sedums & Succulents
• Companion Grasses: Panicum, Pennisetum

Lavender Care Tips

Watering Lavender

Lavender is an excellent drought-tolerant plant with low water needs once established. Water in-ground Lavender plants deeply but infrequently—allow soil to dry between waterings. Container-grown plants will need to be watered more frequently than those planted in the ground, especially during periods of extreme heat, but be sure to avoid standing water or overly wet soils. When watering Lavender, avoid overhead watering to reduce fungal risk.

Fertilizing Lavender

Lavender requires minimal fertilizer and organic inputs. Too much nitrogen can cause excessive growth of weak, spindly foliage, fewer blooms, and less intense fragrance, so high-nitrogen products should be avoided. To promote healthy growth, use a low-nitrogen organic fertilizer, such as a starter or bloom fertilizer, in early Spring if desired.

Pruning Lavender

As a general rule, Lavender should be pruned once per year after bloom or in January, however to maintain a tidy appearance or promote a second flush of blooms, plan to prune twice a year. When pruning Lavender, trim back about 1/3 of growth, but do not cut into woody stems. Regular pruning keeps plants full, dense, and extends lifespan.

Lavender Pruning Tips by Type:

• English: Deadhead regularly in Summer, cut back foliage by one third in January to keep plants from looking spindly.
• Lavandin: Harvest flowers in Summer. Shear foliage by 1/3 in January for fresh, even regrowth.
• Spanish: Deadhead for Summer rebloom and tidy foliage in January as needed.

Lavender makes a stunning addition to any sunny garden bed or patio container. The fragrance of the soft evergreen foliage make this an attractive plant even when it isn’t in bloom, but the flowers add a special magic to any edible or tea garden. Come run your hands through our fantastic selection of Lavender and find the perfect plant for you!

Pollinators provide so many benefits to the landscape and help make our gardens more productive and meaningful!

Whether you’re integrating more pollinator plants into your existing landscape or planning your garden from scratch, you can establish a more productive and diverse ecosystem right in your own backyard with beautiful, blooming plants for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Here are some guidelines and simple steps you can take, from the plants you select to the ways you clean up your space in the Fall, that will make your garden to make it more attractive to pollinators. Plus, we include ways to make each pollinator-friendly option elevated and design-forward to keep your garden in line with your visual goals for your space.

Why Pollinators Are Essential for a Beautiful Garden

From blooming wildflowers to edible plants, pollinators play an irreplaceable role in maintaining biodiversity, food security, and ecological balance. Pollinators are critically important in ensuring edible plants produce fruit and vegetables. These important insects create balance and are part of a thriving ecosystem when they work in tandem with other beneficial bugs in the garden.

Beyond their ecological value, there's something undeniably poetic about seeing a butterfly flutter by on a sunny afternoon, or a hummingbird zoom past in search of a sweet treat, or to see a bee nestled in its favorite flower overnight. Pollinators are some of the essential players in a garden that work hand-in-hand with the plants, structure, and style to help create a sense of place.

Pacific Northwest Pollinators

The most charismatic pollinators in Pacific Northwest gardens are bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. These beloved pollinators visit flowers to consume the sweet floral nectar for energy and in the process, collect pollen which is then transferred to the next flower they visit.

Bees

Honeybees, Bumblebees, Native Bees, Mason Bees

Bees, the primary pollinator for so many of our food crops and garden plants, are the tiny heroes of our ecosystem! From blooming wildflowers to edible plants, bees play an irreplaceable role in maintaining biodiversity, food security, and ecological balance. Bees are particularly drawn to pollen-rich flowers that have exposed anthers or clusters of tiny flowers and are highly attracted to the color yellow.

Butterflies

Swallowtail, Admiral, Duskywing, Monarch Butterfly

Butterflies are equally beautiful and beneficial pollinating insects. As caterpillars they may munch selectively on some leaves, but as flying butterflies they make up for any damage with their attractive form and helpful pollination. While it might be tempting to spray for caterpillars, just remember that butterflies come from caterpillars! Butterflies love fragrant and nectar-rich flowers that are made up of many small clusters of tube-like flowers.

Hummingbirds

Anna’s, Rufous, Costa’s, Allen’s Hummingbird

Hummingbirds are like little flying jewels that love visiting flowers to drink nectar, and in the process help spread pollen from flower to flower. These territorial birds will return to your garden year after year to pollinate plants, and some may even take up year-round residency! Hummingbirds love tubular flowers in a range of colors, with a special preference for red, peach, pink, and salmon. For some excellent, garden-friendly options, check out our blog on the 7 Best Hummingbird Plants for the Garden and our blog on Gardening to Attract Hummingbirds.

Other Important PNW Pollinators

Beyond the “big three” pollinators in the Pacific Northwest, other insects and even mammals can act as pollinators. Ants act as slow and steady pollinators of nectar-rich plants. Moths visit white, fragrant flowers at night to feast on nectar and provide pollination. Flies, especially hoverflies, are phenomenal pollinators of flat, umbel flowers like Yarrow and Fennel, and also act as excellent predators of aphids.

Remember, bugs in the garden serve a purpose and “issues” only tend to arise when the balance is off, so seeing some flies, wasps, moths, ants, beetles, even bats is a good thing. Find more information about attracting and using beneficial bugs in your garden on our blog!

Easy, Guaranteed Ways to Attract More Pollinators

By creating a pollinator garden, you can provide a welcoming habitat for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, ensuring their survival while enjoying the beauty of a thriving garden. It’s easy to “bee” a part of the solution and help attract pollinators to your garden with these simple steps!

1. Flower Power: Make sure something is always blooming.

Flowers are food for pollinators, so the best way to encourage them to visit your garden is to provide for them all year long.

While it does make sense to focus most of your pollinator planting efforts on the months that pollinators are awake and active, bear in mind that hummingbirds are year-round residents, and bees wake up earlier each year. In our changing climate, flowers are essential for pollinators to survive the colder season.

Choose a variety of flowering plants that bloom at different times throughout the year to provide a consistent food source. Check out our blog on Supporting Pollinators in Fall & Winter for more tips.

Design-Forward Tip: Take inspiration from our Landscape Design Guides. Each Landscape Style Guide has comprehensive plant palettes for creating a stylish garden start to finish. Follow those planting suggestions for a landscape that looks good year-round!

2. Play the Hits: Include high-performing, long-blooming perennials.

When it comes to planting for pollinators, you can’t beat these long-blooming, hardy perennials.

Design-Forward Tip: Use these plants in a specific color palette and repeated patterns throughout the garden and let them be the thread that stitches everything together since they are long-blooming.

Perennial plants that attract all three major pollinators:

• Bee Balm – Monarda: With its showy clusters of red, pink, or purple flowers, Bee Balm is highly attractive to bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
• Lavender – Lavendula: Fragrant and evergreen, this loved herb produces fragrant flower wands with clusters of purple, pink, or white flowers that attract bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.

Perennials for attracting bees:

• Avens – Geum: Delicate, cupped petals surround fuzzy centers on Geum flowers which bloom early and often and attract bees and hoverflies.
• Catmint – Nepeta: Low-growing, fragrant Catmint foliage is topped by spikes of lavender, purple, or blue flowers that are highly attractive to bees and butterflies.
• Foxglove – Digitalis: Tall, elegant spires of bell-shaped flowers on Foxgloves provide nectar to bees and hummingbirds alike.
• Tickseed – Coreopsis: Flat yellow daisy-like flowers are a magnet for bees – some Coreposis even have dark markings to guide bees towards the center of the flower.
• Yarrow – Achillea: Flat clusters of tiny flowers in bright pops of color are a hallmark of drought-tolerant Yarrow and a favorite of native bees and hoverflies.

Perennials for attracting butterflies:

• Coneflower – Echinacea: Pointed orange cones are surrounded by petals in every imaginable color on Echinacea flowers that bees and butterflies (and a host of other pollinators) adore.
• Pincushion Flower – Scabiosa: Flat clusters of Scabiosa flowers in white, blue or pink top graceful stems on this long-blooming perennial that attracts bees, butterflies and hoverflies.

Perennials for attracting hummingbirds:

• Cape Fuchsia – Phygelius: Long, fluted flowers in sunset tones are borne on Cape Fuchsia’s sturdy foliage and are a favorite of hummingbirds.
• Hyssop – Agastache: Aromatic foliage of Hyssop gives rise to wands of fragrant, colorful flowers in a rainbow of colors that attract bees and hummingbirds.
• Sage – Salvia: The nectar-rich flowers and many species of Salvia in every color imaginable entice a host of pollinators including hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

3. More is More: Plant in layers with a diversity of flowers.

Make the best use of your space by planting low-growing plants, perennials, climbers, and shrubs with a diversity of flower shapes and sizes.

Bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies are attracted to a wide range of flower shapes, colors, and scents. Incorporate a variety of flower types including tubular, bell-shaped, flat, and clustered flowers to accommodate various pollinators. Planting flowering plants in clusters or “pollinator targets” helps pollinators locate and efficiently collect nectar and pollen. Plus grouping several of the same plant species together will also create a stronger visual impact and attract more bees to your garden.

Don’t forget to make use of vertical space against houses and fences for pollinator friendly climbing plants like Honeysuckle, Trumpet Vine, and Climbing Roses. Plus, the ground beneath perennial pollinators is prime for planting up with flowering groundcovers like Thyme and Kinnikinnick.

Design-Forward Tip: Stay true to a color palette. Thanks to modern plant breeding, many favorite pollinator flowers are available in a wide range of colors making it easier to stick to a tighter color palette while still attracting a range of pollinators. Each of our Landscape Design Guides illustrates two unique, cohesive color palettes to provide straightforward options for creating cohesive and attractive gardens.

4. Think Locally: Plant native plants.

Native plants are a perfect fit when it comes to supporting and encouraging visits from pollinators, especially when it comes to local PNW pollinator species.

Native plants are well-adapted to the local climate and provide the best resources for local bee, butterfly, and moth species. While native plants are an excellent choice no matter the goals of your garden (our 7 Best Native Plants are rounded up here!), there are some that outperform the rest when it comes to pollinator support.

Yarrow is a long-blooming, attractive native plant (with lots of colorful nativar options) that attracts lots of bee species and helpful hoverflies as well. Oregon Grape blooms in the late Winter or early Spring and acts as a critical food source for local bee species that are waking up from hibernation. And nothing heralds Springtime like Ribes, which is a veritable hummingbird magnet with its bright pink, pendulous flower clusters!

Design-Forward Tip: Incorporate the native plants you choose into your overall design. Think of them as key plants rather than an afterthought, or worse, something that gets relegated to its own forgotten corner. Even if your aesthetic veers away from the classic PNW look, you can still repeat chosen native plants throughout your garden for an elevated look.

5. Just Add Water: Water features and birdbaths refresh pollinators, too!

Water features and birdbaths provide drinking water for thirsty pollinators.

When creating a pollinator garden, the importance of water cannot be understated. Floral nectar is sugary and energizing, but even bugs and birds need to hydrate and restore their fluids before building nests.

To make sure pollinators can access the water in your garden, your water feature has to have areas with less movement and shallow depth. Low-laying birdbaths and water fountains act as areas that pollinators can drink from. Fill a shallow dish or birdbath with fresh water and add some rocks or floating plants for the bees and butterflies to land on while drinking and provide mist or a shower to visiting hummingbirds!

Even if you have a water feature that has a lot of turbulence, you can create a pocket of shallow, still water by using river rocks or other larger stones or pavers.

Design-Forward Tip: Have a water feature custom-made to match the aesthetic of your garden. Our Design Build Residential Landscape team is incredible at creating bespoke water features that fit the look and feel of your garden while providing for wildlife. Visit the portfolio!

6. Take It Easy: Leave perennial stems up in Winter to act as nesting sites.

When it comes to boosting pollinator populations, a little untidiness goes a long way.

Bees and butterflies require suitable nesting sites to raise their young, and the hollow stems of spent perennial flowers are ideal. Though you may be tempted to cut back perennial stems and leaves after they dry up and turn brown in the Fall, its better for pollinators if you leave them in place. Solitary bees, like Mason bees, love to fill the hollow spaces in Lily and Hosta stems, so don’t discard them into the compost until temperatures have warmed and new growth emerges. You can even install bee houses specifically designed for solitary bees.

It’s also a great idea to leave some areas of bare soil or provide small piles of twigs in corners of the garden. And of course, leave your leaves! These areas are perfect Winter homes for butterflies and bees.

Design-Forward Tip: Consider the shape that plants have as a year-round feature and not just something to be enjoyed when they are green or in bloom. The attractive architecture offered by brown grasses and the artistic appearance of seedheads invites a Bohemian aesthetic that works very well in most gardens, especially in the Winter months. After all, its better to look out on something other than bare dirt!

7. Things that Kill, Kill: Avoid pesticide usage.

Pesticides are harmful to bees, caterpillars (which make butterflies), and other pollinators.

While the temptation to battle unwanted insect pests with pesticides and insecticides is strong (we get it!) consider the fact they will also kill pollinator populations and explore alternatives. Instead of using pesticides, your best line of defense is to create a healthy garden ecosystem by practicing organic gardening methods. By focusing on healthy plants and soils and utilizing companion planting to deter pests, you’ll promote natural pest control and beneficial insect populations.

If issues do arise, knock back unwanted bug populations by introducing beneficials insects or spraying them off with water. To resolve fungal issues, consider why they are there in the first place, and then prune to introduce airflow, give it more water, or move it to a more advantageous spot in the garden.

Design-Forward Tip: A beautiful garden is a healthy garden, and vice versa. To minimize stress from underwatering, weeds, or soil infertility, add a thick layer of mulch to your garden beds each Spring and Fall. This immediately improves the look of a garden bed, making it more finished and refined, while helping to reduce plant stress—the number one cause of pests!

Dennis’ 7 Dees Garden Centers have beautiful, blooming pollinator plants all year round. Our team of plant experts can help you build a garden that feels as good for pollinators as it does for people!

We love making special time to celebrate our favorite gardeners and life-givers every year. This Spring, show your mama how much you care with one of our unique and thoughtful Mother’s Day gift ideas!

Whether you use Mother’s Day to honor the person who brought you into this world or to recognize those who have been your strongest allies and chosen family, this is the perfect opportunity to gift your special someone with a meaningful gift that they will enjoy for years to come. We know that many of you make an annual visit to the garden center with your mom to spend quality time together, and we love being a part of your family tradition!

Here are 7 clever Mother’s Day gifts you’ll find at our garden centers and indoor plant shops!

1. Living Bouquet for the Budding Florist
2. Edible Plants for Culinary Delights
3. Elegant & Fragrant Container Garden
4. Something Sentimental Just for Her
5. An Outdoor Retreat to Boost Her Well-Being
6. Luscious Houseplants for an Indoor Haven
7. Self-Care Package for Proper Pampering

1. Living Bouquet for the Budding Florist

With their glorious, abundant blooms, perennials like Foxgloves, Lupines, Peonies, and of course, Roses, are like living bouquets in the garden and act as the perfect alternative to a traditional flower arrangement.

These stunning plants make fantastic cut flowers that your mama can bring indoors and arrange in her own artful way. Plus, our blog on the 7 Best Long-Flowering Plants for Growing Cut Flowers and color palette recommendations will make it easy to for her to create floral arrangements that will look great in the landscape or inside in a vase (P.S., vases make great gifts, too!). We always have a fabulous selection of long-blooming cutting garden favorites, and the adorable vases to accompany them, at our garden centers for Mother’s Day.

2. Edible Plants for Culinary Delights

Homegrown fruits, veggies, and herbs are a delight for the senses—their flavor, color, and aroma will rival anything that she will find in the grocery store.

Create a custom edible container planting for your mom, or pick up a selection of tasty plants and a gorgeous pot and plant them together! Whether its backyard berries to add to her famous desserts, fresh herbs to spruce up a cocktail, or a mix of heirloom tomatoes to impress her dinner guests, we have a phenomenal selection of locally sourced, organic edible plants that will add pizzazz to all her culinary exploits!

3. Elegant & Fragrant Container Garden

Fragrance is key to creating memorable moments in the garden, which is why giving the gift of a scented plant is one of our favorite things to do!

When it comes to creating an impactful, fragrant container planting, keep it simple with a classic ceramic pot and let one of our 7 Best Fragrant Plants take center stage. Or if you want something fuller, fill in the spaces around the aromatic all-star with one of our stunning container garden palettes and voila! You’ve created something that your mom will enjoy and make her think of you every time she steps outside.

4. Something Sentimental Just for Her

Mothers adore nostalgia, and even a bit of romance, and the right plant can help evoke both!

Whether it’s something to spark a memory from a recent trip, remind her of her childhood, or say “I love you”, it’s easy and fun to show affection with a plant! Take inspiration from our popular blogs on gifting memorable, nostalgic plants:

• Classic Flowering Shrubs for a Modern Garden – Perfect for caregivers who have fond associations with plants from their past and want to create those for the next generation.
• 7 Romantic Plants for Garden Lovers – Perfect for sending a message, loud and clear, to your Mama that you love her!
• Anniversary & Valentine’s Day Gifts Inspired by your Love Story – Ideal for helping your matriarch relive the golden memories you’ve shared.

5. An Outdoor Retreat to Boost Her Well-Being

Help create a chic and serene space for your mother to unwind with our tasteful selection of outdoor furniture and outdoor living accessories.

When creating a relaxing setting for your mama, you can go big with a new patio set, or add comfort and class to her existing patio with new cushions and pillows. But our favorite way to cultivate calm is by gifting a firepit or water fountain to really elevate her outdoor space. Whether she is spending time outside solo or with her loves, our garden centers have everything you need to deck her deck for outdoor Summer living.

6. Luscious Houseplants for an Indoor Haven

Plants make our homes feel calm and serene and can help your mom connect to nature, no matter where she lives. After all, the right plant and pottery has the power to transform a space, just like our favorite mamas.

If you know that your want to give a houseplant for Mother’s Day, check out our perfect pottery and plant pairing recommendations to help you come up with a fresh combination and our complete guide to Success with Statement Houseplants for large indoor plant design inspiration. Our houseplant selection is revived every week, and we are proud to carry a broad selection of indoor pottery, included pieces from local Pacific Northwest makers. When you find the right plant and planter for your mama, she’ll remember your thoughtful attention every time she walks past the plant in her home!

7. Self-Care Package for Proper Pampering

When in doubt, pamper Mom with a custom gift basket! All our garden centers and plant shops have a gift shop with an array of thoughtful gifts.

You'll find fun items like flower presses, artsy seed collections, botanical jewelry, plant accessories, stylish pruning shears, and more—perfect gifts for plant lovers and nature enthusiasts alike. We also have locally-made candles from Sea of Roses, with earthy, clean, and floral scents that are perfectly balanced. And because we know what our Moms love most is quality time, pick up a new puzzle for the two of you to do together!

Classic Mother's Day Gifts

When in doubt, play the hits! These options are classics for a reason, and moms love to receive them just as much as you love to give them.

Hanging Basket

For the mom who still adores the iconic garden center gift, a hanging basket, we’ve got you covered with a host of gorgeous new combos to choose from! Download and print our Hanging Basket Care Sheet so she can enjoy her blooming basket all season long.

Garden Center Gift Card

If your mama loves to garden, but you can’t decide what to get her, “leaf” the decision to her! Pick up a Dennis’ 7 Dees gift card, grab a cute card, and take her on an epic shopping spree. For those who are far away from loved ones this Mother’s Day, digital gift cards are available online and can be emailed instantly for quick but thoughtful gifting.

Find gorgeous plants and lovely, stylish gifts at any of our local garden centers, either for the moms in your life or anyone on your list—including you!

Peonies have gorgeous, voluptuous blooms at the peak of Spring that bring a stunning floral display to the garden and vase!

Peonies have so much to offer the home gardener! These hardy perennial plants are long-lived, low-maintenance, and relatively fast-growing in full sun or light shade. Peonies are prized by florists as one of the most beautiful Spring florals, and one of my florist friends cheekily refers to them “your girlfriend’s favorite flower”!

Ultimately Peonies make phenomenal cut flowers for anyone who wants to bring their own garden flowers indoors. They are fragrant, lasting, and fabulously flamboyant and feminine flowers. On top of all that, Peonies attract butterflies and have the added bonus of being deer and rabbit resistant!

The Best Garden Peonies to Grow for Cut Flowers

Peonies for homegrown cut flowers fall into two main categories—Herbaceous Peonies and Itoh Peonies. Tree Peonies are larger, woodier, and rarer, and if you happen to inherit one with a garden, consider yourself extremely lucky!

When harvesting Peonies for cut flowers, cut their stems down at the base or at a leaf node. Harvest them when the buds have cracked open and the petals are visible—if you give them a light squeeze, they should feel a bit like a squishy marshmallow! If harvested too soon, the buds may fail to open, and harvesting too late just means you won’t be able to enjoy them in the vase quite as long. For more tips about growing your own cut flowers, check out our Backyard Bouquets blog!

Herbaceous and Itoh Peonies are fantastic in Traditional, Cottage, and Bohemian Landscapes and look great when co-planted with other Springtime perennials, Roses, or evergreen shrubs. The best selection of Itoh and Herbaceous Peonies at garden centers can be found in April and May before and during their bloom season.

Herbaceous Peonies

Herbaceous Peonies have been adored by gardeners for generations, and no wonder! These phenomenally easy garden plants are hardy from Zones 3–8, and they go completely dormant and die back to the ground in the Fall and Winter. In Spring, rich burgundy colored foliage emerges from bare ground and looks almost otherworldly, like hands coming up out of the soil. Peony plants grow quickly each Spring to about 2–3 feet tall with large, showy flowers at the ends of almost every stem, often blooming near Mother’s Day.

Herbaceous Peony flowers may be frilly doubles, semi-double, or singles, and come in a range of colors from cool, buttery white to coral and through to intense magenta depending on the cultivar. Best of all, many varieties of herbaceous peonies are also very fragrant! Though herbaceous peonies have a relatively short flowering time, they are unmatched for their glorious display.

Herbaceous Peony blossoms can be heavy and may weigh down the stems so it is best to provide a peony cage, ring, or other support. Be sure to get supports in place early in Spring, as soon as new growth emerges, before stems have a chance to flop. This way, the plant grows up through the support naturally, concealing the support beneath the foliage.

Our Favorite Herbaceous Peonies

1. Alertie – Fluffy, baby pink double flowers appear ruffled with a raspberry-colored eye in the center and possess a sweet fragrance.
2. Coral Charm Peony – Large, semi-double, flowers with a slight fragrance emerge true pink and fade to coral-cream as they gracefully age.
3. Gardenia Peony – Abundant white blooms are double and frilly with a faint hint of blush pink and carry a lovely sweet fragrance.
4. Karl Rosenfield Peony – Classic, enormous magenta-red flowers are heavily ruffled and have a sweet fragrance.
5. Red Charm Peony – Deep, rich red blooms are full and heavily ruffled with a lush, double form and a light, sweet fragrance.
6. Sarah Bernhardt Peony – Very fragrant, large double flowers bloom in pastel pink on a dependable plant.
7. Shirley Temple – Ivory white to blush pink, ruffled double blooms are charming and fragrant.

Itoh Peonies

Itoh or “Intersectional” peonies are a more recent introduction—a cross between herbaceous peonies and tree peonies. They were the result of a lifetime of work done by Japanese botanist Dr. Toichi to create a magnificent, fast-growing plant with huge flowers held on strong stems with attractive foliage. They generally do not require staking or support and are resistant to blight!

Mature Itoh plants grow to about 2.5 feet tall by around 3.5 feet wide and usually begin to bloom in early June, just as herbaceous peonies are finishing their floral display. Hardy to Zones 4–8, Itoh peonies do well in full sun or partial shade and die back in winter, leaving a short, woody stem above ground. Mature plants can have up to 50+ flowers in one season, and flowers may grow to dinner plate size! Plants can often produce a light, second flowering if deadheaded. Though they can be grown for a few years in a container, Itoh peonies are ultimately best grown in the ground.

Although originally bred to produce yellow flowers, Itoh peonies are now available in a wide range of colors including peach, purple, and white.

Our Favorite Itoh Peonies

1. Bartzella Itoh Peony – Lemon yellow, semi-double flowers are sweetly fragrant and borne on symmetrical plants.
2. Cora Louise Itoh Peony – Soft lavender petals are offset by intense magenta interiors and bear a slight fragrance. 
3. Julia Rose Itoh Peony – Semi-double flowers have a spicy scent and bloom in an multidimensional ombre from pale peach through to rich coral and dusty rose.
4. Keiko Itoh Peony – Semi-double bright lavender-pink flowers fade to soft, dusky rose tone and are complemented by the bright yellow stamens in the center.
5. Peach-A-Licious Itoh Peony – True peach flowers are the prize on this sturdy, attractive plant.
6. Pineapple Fizz Itoh Peony – Soft, butter yellow blooms are a shimmering display all over this compact plant.
7. Strawberry Swirl Itoh Peony – True, bubblegum pink flowers are borne on compact and easy-care plants.

Planting Peonies in Your Garden

Peonies can be planted in the Spring or Fall. In Spring, the selection of herbaceous and Itoh peonies is best and most diverse. However, plants that go into garden beds during Fall have an added advantage of root establishment during the wet Winter months. If needed, you can keep a newly purchased plant in its pot through Spring and Summer and protect it from damage by sinking the container into the ground until ideal Fall planting time arrives!

Plant peonies in full sun or light shade with rich, well-draining soil, ideally directly into the garden or a raised bed. Be watchful of the planting level; ensure that the buds or “eyes” are no more than 2 inches below the top soil level when planted—Peonies may fail to bloom if buried too deeply.

How to Care for Peonies

Peony Fertilizing Tips

In general, established Herbaceous Peonies are relatively low maintenance and can be given a top dressing of granular, organic, all-purpose fertilizer (4-4-4) each Spring as new growth begins. Itoh peonies, however, are sensitive to nitrogen, so they should be given a fertilizer that has a low first number on the label such as E.B. Stone Rose & Flower Food 5-6-3. or E.B. Stone Tomato & Vegetable Food 4-5-3 to promote blooming without pushing too much green growth.

Peony Pruning Tips

Both herbaceous and Itoh peonies will die back during Winter and should have old foliage removed annually to avoid spreading disease. Herbaceous peonies can be cut to the ground as the foliage turns brown in late Fall. Itoh peonies should be pruned back to leave a 4 to 5-inch woody stem above ground in late Fall; may need to be lightly pruned the following spring as new growth emerges. Tree peonies are generally not pruned at all. 

Dividing and transplanting peonies is best done in Fall so that roots can settle during the rainy months and plants can grow strongly on in Spring.

Troubleshooting Peony Issues

Although they are mostly free of insect pests, peonies may experience fungal diseases such as Botrytis and blight. Copper fungicide applied in Spring can be effective in treating and preventing diseases, and plants grown in full sun with good air circulation are less likely to have trouble.

Failure to bloom may be the result of planting too deep or not enough sun exposure. If your peonies have weak stems and floppy flowers that fall over, be sure to provide a peony cage or a “grow-through” support. If possible, harvest flowers for bouquets prior to rainstorms to make the most of the blooms without sacrificing their fluffy flowerheads to damp, wet conditions.

Why Are Ants Attracted to Peony Buds?

As peony buds mature, they secrete a sweet, sticky substance that attracts ants. Gardening folklore claims the ants help the flowers open by “tickling” the buds and removing the sap—but that’s not quite right. The ants aren’t doing any harm, but the flower would open just fine without them. What they do offer is a kind of natural pest control, defending the Peony plant against pests while helping themselves to the bud’s sugary secretions—a fair trade for both parties!

To avoid bringing ants inside on cut peony flowers, cut blooms in early morning while plants are covered with dew and ants are not yet present, or turn cut flowers upside down and gently tap them with your fingers to dislodge unwanted “guests” before bringing them indoors. Cut flowers can also be quickly submerged into a bowl of water to remove hidden insects from inside blooms.

Visit our Garden Centers in Spring to marvel at the majesty of Peonies and find the perfect Peony for your garden’s color palette and aesthetic. With so many colors and styles, it’s impossible not to fall in love with these stunning, reliable plants!

Hanging baskets full of flowers are just the right thing to add instant color, fun, and personality to your home and garden!

Hanging baskets are one of the fastest and best ways to add color to your porch, patio, or entry, but they’re also one of the easiest to struggle with. If your hanging baskets have ever dried out, stopped blooming, or started looking tired halfway through Summer, you’re not alone. The good news is that by following a few simple steps, you can keep your hanging baskets looking full, vibrant, and healthy for months on end.

Here are our expert care tips for making sure your hanging baskets thrive this season!

1. Choose the right basket for your space!

We offer a gorgeous selection of locally grown hanging baskets for sun, shade, and everything in between!

Hanging Basket Container Selection

• Size matters—the bigger the basket, the easier it is to care for and keep hydrated. Larger baskets (at least 12") will be more resilient, less prone to drying out quickly, and boast more blooms than smaller options!
• The type of container  makes a difference. Plastic pots hold water best, while wire frames with moss or coco liners tend to dry out more quickly.
• Be sure to install strong hooks for heavy hanging baskets!

Hanging Basket Light Requirements

Pay attention to the amount of sun your basket will receive in its designated area, especially for baskets placed under eaves. Shade baskets in full sun will burn and look bleached, and sun baskets in too much shade will look leggy and stop blooming.

• Plant combinations for full sun need at least 6 hours. (Petunias and Geraniums)
• Plant combinations for partial sun require 4–6 hours. (Million Bells)
• Shade combos need less than 4 hours of sun per day (Fuchsias and Begonias)

Some areas in full sun also receive radiant heat from fences, decks, or siding, so pay special attention and increase watering if your basket is in particularly hot-dry conditions.

2. Watering hanging baskets frequently is essential.

A consistent watering schedule is key to healthy hanging baskets. Hanging baskets are thirsty plants, especially once temperatures rise. Because they are fully containerized, suspended plants, they are especially susceptible to the elements, and limited soil volume means there isn’t a lot of water-holding capacity. Water needs will increase as your plants grow and the weather warms up. By mid-Summer, most baskets will require daily watering, if not more. Check the weight of the basket to determine if it needs watering.

How Often to Water Hanging Baskets

In peak Summer, most baskets need water once a day, and during heat waves, sometimes twice daily. Here's what to look for:

• Light, dry soil = needs water
• Wilting in the morning = already stressed
• Water running straight through = soil has dried out too much

How to Water Hanging Baskets

Water slowly and thoroughly until water drains from the bottom. A quick splash on top isn’t sufficient to water your basket. The goal when watering is to fully saturate the root ball, and using a watering wand extension on your hose will help tremendously!

Our Pro Tip: If your basket feels bone dry and water is running right through, soak it in a bucket or tub for 10–15 minutes to fully rehydrate the soil.

3. Fertilizing hanging baskets is the secret to bigger, fuller blooms.

If you want that lush, overflowing look all season long, feeding your baskets regularly is key. Hanging baskets are essentially “high performance” containers and as such, they burn through nutrients quickly. In fact, lack of fertilizer is the most common reason baskets stop blooming. Look for a fertilizer with a high middle number (Phosphorus on N-P-K label) to encourage and promote flower production!

Fertilizer Product & Application Recommendations

For more consistent blooms, richer color, and fuller, more vigorous growth, we recommend a combination of:

• Liquid fertilizer applied every 1–2 weeks during the growing season. Our favorite products are Alaska Morbloom Organic Fertilizer and Scotts Super Bloom Fertilizer.
• Slow-release bloom-boosting fertilizer for steady feeding applied monthly. Our favorites are E.B. Stone Organics Rose & Flower Food and Osmocote Flower & Vegetable Fertilizer.

If your basket looks healthy but isn’t blooming much, it might be getting too much shade, might need to be deadheaded, or might need a bloom-specific fertilizer.

4. A little hanging basket maintenance goes a long way.

Avoid the "set it and forget it" mindset. Watering and feeding are the foundation, but a little maintenance goes a long way towards keeping hanging baskets blooming all season. Do this regularly for thriving baskets:

• Deadhead spent blooms weekly to encourage new flowers
• Trim back leggy growth if plants start to stretch or thin out
• Rotate baskets occasionally so all sides get even light

Our Pro Tip: Don’t be afraid to give your basket a light haircut mid-season. A quick trim followed by a liquid fertilizer feed can reset growth and bring it back fuller than ever in just a couple of weeks!

Pest Control Tips

Pests can become an issue, especially if your hanging basket becomes stressed from heat or lack of watering. Protect hanging baskets against pests like bud worms and caterpillars with Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew. Spray when you see a small white moth or butterfly on or near your flowers. Monitor for other pests like aphids—if present, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Going on Vacation?

Hanging baskets don’t love being left alone, but a little planning helps! Here's what to do with your hanging basket before you leave for a vacation:

• Move baskets to a shadier, more protected area
• Water deeply right before leaving
• Ask a neighbor or friend to check in if possible

Our Pro Tip: Grouping baskets together and placing them on the ground can help create a more humid microclimate and slow drying.

Hanging Basket Success, Simplified

If you remember just a few things, make it these three things below. This is the same approach our team uses to keep baskets looking their best all season!

1. Water consistently (daily in Summer): Use a watering wand for thorough, gentle watering

2. Feed regularly for continuous blooms: Slow-release fertilizer applied monthly; liquid bloom booster applied weekly

3. Don’t be afraid to trim and refresh.

A little attention goes a long way and once you get the rhythm down, hanging baskets become one of the most rewarding and beautiful parts of your garden. If you’re not sure where to start, stop by one of our Garden Centers. Our team is always happy to help you choose the right basket, troubleshoot issues, or get you set up for success!

Hanging Basket FAQs

How often should I water hanging baskets?

Water hanging baskets daily in Summer, sometimes twice a day during extreme heat. Once they dry out completely, they’re hard to recover.

Can you overwater hanging baskets?

It’s less common, but possible if the drainage is poor or if temperatures are still cool early in the season. Most issues with hanging baskets are due to underwatering.

What fertilizer is best for hanging baskets?

A combination of slow-release and liquid fertilizer provides the best results for hanging baskets.