DESCOSIDO

Modern Weekly AW17 Special Mens Style Issue

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 14 Jan 2018 23:57:00 +0000

Harlem Renaissance, Magic Libraries

By Robb Young & Graciela Martin

Rangers, Female travel adventurers - Modern Weekly Style Special Issue AW 17

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 14 Jan 2018 23:50:00 +0000

Modern Weekly Style AW17 Special Style Issue

Modern Weekly AW Special Style Issue

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sun, 14 Jan 2018 23:48:00 +0000

Speed Junkies - Modern Weekly Style
By Robb Young & Graciela Martin

‘Dominican Power’ on the Catwalk

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 10 Mar 2017 10:03:00 +0000

‘Dominican Power’ on the Catwalk

A wave of new models from the Dominican Republic are scoring major campaigns and runway gigs at fashion week. But what — or who — is really behind their unstoppable ascent?

By Graciela Martin for The Business of Fashion

Entrevista Jacopo Janniello Ravagnan de CARAVANA

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 12 Jul 2016 22:07:00 +0000

El Efecto Balements - Luster Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 29 Mar 2016 10:38:00 +0000

Originalmente publicado en Lustermagazine

¿Será la velocidad con la cual se mueve el mundo actual?, ¿el abominable culto al selfie? ¿o el nuevo individualismo que, por encima, pareciera no seguir los fenómenos de las masas? Tan diversos fueron los mensajes entregados durante la semana de la moda de París, que atrás quedó aquello clasificar a una firma dentro de la estética del lujo austero de Céline o dentro de la abundancia decorativa y nostálgica que caracteriza a Prada.

Ahora bien, si hubo un mensaje que se sobrepuso a todo el ruido fue el de Demna Gvasalia, el creador de Vêtements y el nuevo diseñador de Balenciaga: “streetwear es el nuevo couture”, o algo por esas líneas. Sin embargo, aun al evocar los volúmenes del maestro Cristóbal, resulta difícil digerir la colección como Balenciaga. Desde luego, queda claro el alto potencial comercial de la muestra y que se beneficiará del bombo actual que goza el reciclaje “margielista” de su nuevo director.

Lógicamente, Gvasalia proviene de la famosa escuela de Antwerp y de las filas de Martin Margiela y Louis Vuitton. No en vano su retoño, Vêtements, no es más que una recreación de la estética deconstructiva y urbana de Margiela en sus inicios. Evidentemente, la hazaña de Gvasaglia no radica en reinterpretar al diseñador belga, sino en haber logrado conectar con el público joven como nadie lo ha hecho recientemente.

Como consecuencia, el efecto Vêtements no solo ha llegado a Balenciaga, sino que se ha colado tanto en marcas debutantes (Off White) como veteranas (Kenzo y Miu Miu). Centrarse en el producto y divorciase de cualquier concepto pretencioso ha sido la bandera y éxito de Vêtements, pero ello no implica que funcione para todos. Sin embargo, deja en el aire la pregunta de si es momento de simplificar el mensaje a la hora de vender.

La realidad es que Balenciaga o ‘Balements’, según sea su preferencia, hará sonar las cajas registradoras y pondrá una sonrisa en la cara de François Henri-Pinault, actual presidente del conglomerado Kering, anteriormente llamado PPR (Pinault-Printemps-Redoute). Mientras tanto, Martin Margiela observa como hacen fortunas con su legado y como John Galliano utiliza su nombre para dar rienda suelta a su circo de fantasías frustradas.

Luca Larenza’s Street Art Inspired Menswear

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:43:00 +0000

Originally published in The Business of Fashion

Luca Larenza Autumn / Winter 2015| Source: Luca Larenza

MILAN, Italy — "I focus on the fabrics first — and then on the colours. In my collections colour is very important," said 31 year-old Italian, menswear designer Luca Larenza. Now in its eighth season, Larenza’s namesake brand blends traditional Italian craftsmanship with eye-catching chromatic juxtapositions and innovative modern detailing.

For Autumn/Winter 2015, Larenza took cues from New York's late 1970s/early 1980s street art scene. He was previously himself a graffiti artist — for a period of about 13 years — which led directly to his interest in fashion. "During that time, I started to develop some ideas, playing with shapes. I began to concentrate on a small menswear capsule collection, centered on knitwear."

Today, that collection includes an oversized, deconstructed, pimp-style camel coat, influenced by the aesthetics of early hip-hop, and sophisticated jumpers with 3-D stitches, rubber effects and bold lines, evocative of subway graffiti and the brush-strokes of Jean-Michel Basquiat. Re-worked menswear staples such asherringbone, checks and tartans complete what Larenza calls a wardrobe for the "modern dandy."

Larenza did not formally train in design. In fact, following high school, he chose to study law with the intention of entering the field. "But when I finished studying law, I understood that what I really liked for my life was to work with art and fashion.”

Knowing he wanted to start his own business, Larenza completed a master's degree in fashion management at ISEM (International School of Economics and Management) in Madrid. Next was a stint as a fashion buyer for Amazon BuyVip in Italy, during which time he began working as as a consultant for Italian menswear designer Angelo Fusco. The experience gave Larenza the confidence he needed to venture out on his own and, in 2008, he founded his label in Milan.

"In the beginning, I was only able to do small collections, because of the costs, so I preferred to focus on small, detailed collections," said Larenza. Starting small allowed the designer to experiment with little risk and focus closely on the craftsmanship and detailing that has become a signature of his brand.

In 2011, Larenza was a finalist in “Who is on Next? Uomo,” the emerging menswear talent competition hosted by Pitti Immagine Uomo, Alta Roma and Uomo Vogue. "This helped a lot for the positioning of my brand, also for the press attention. After years, I got into important department stores like BeamsInternational Gallery in Tokyo and Andreas Murkudis in Berlin."

Larenza has since expanded his distribution across Italy, where his products are sold via The Store, Paleari, Mario & Sons, Gigi Tropea, Chirico Uomo and others. The label currently has a total of ten global stockists and Larenza is keen to grow a serious presence in Asia and expand his European distribution network, with a focus on department stores.

In September 2014, Larenza signed a five-year licensing deal with Milanese luxury knitwear specialist AM [Andrea Monteverdi] Srl and the designer is currently working on the second season of the partnership (Spring/Summer 2016). Larenza hopes this deal will provide the kind of economic stability that will allow him to continue to grow his business, whilst maintaining the “Made-in-Italy” craftsmanship that has characterised his work from the start.

For this month’s Spotlight, Luca Larenza has designed a custom BoF logo that evokes his street artist origins. "This pattern I have done has also been used for the paintings and the set design at my Autumn/Winter 2015 presentation during the men’s shows in Milan," he explained.

Although Larenza’s primary focus is menswear, he has also started to develop accessories, incorporating a small number of these products into his Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. A capsule collection for women may also be in the cards.

Comment: Can 'Carbon Funds' Help Fashion Brands Tackle Their Environmental Impact? by BoF

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 25 Nov 2015 11:51:00 +0000

SOURCE: LOUIS VUITTON MALLETIER / MAZEN SAGGAR

Link to Article on The Business of Fashion

Interesting article. "Fashion is the world's second most polluting industry, exceeded only by oil." Yikes!

However, "taxing" companies for producing carbon is not the solution. The solution or at least something that would alleviate the problem goes completely against the nature of the business itself (which is to churn out new clothes every second) and it involves, obviously, all participants of the chain: from the governments, to the designers, companies, producers, manufacturers, suppliers and of course the consumer.
Yes, it is a positive step. It’s at least some form of acknowledging the environmental impact of the company and creating funds to help reduce their own emissions. It’s more than most companies are willing to do. But as the article says, it needs to be a much wider set of initiatives.

And back to the consumer, the only real “solution” (or a huge part of it) lies in each and every human being becoming more conscious of what they buy and how much they buy. How much do we really need? Nobody needs to renovate their wardrobe every season (despite of what magazines tell you). It’s a problem deeply rooted in education and culture, the praise of the new. The culture of conspicuous consumption, shop! shop! you need this!, you need that! (specially Christmas and every commercial holiday of this nature).

Companies produce what people want to buy. That’s why you keep seeing those Louis Vuitton monogram bags and their imitations. Unfortunately, furs are more popular than ever, yet again, because the demand from the final consumer has risen considerably in the past years. If people don’t buy it, companies won’t produce it. No one wants to have unsold merchandise in their shops. As simple as that.

Ahh!, but buying less, consuming less, investing on good quality, lasting garments that weren’t made by a kid in a poverty stricken 3rd world country, goes completely against their profitability. It doesn't matter on which end of the spectrum you shop, whether it’s high end or high street. Like I said, it’s unnatural for an industry that is based on “newness”, and change. The “must- haves”, the “it” bag, the “trends”...

The truth is, the only way to be truly sustainable would be to never, ever buy a piece of clothing again. And obviously this is unrealistic (doable, but unrealistic). However, we can be more conscious, of what we buy, how we produce, etc. What is the point of creating if it implies so much destruction? This involves of course, a different mindset with much broader and true holistic view of us as a society, as whole planet. And we’re not just talking about clothes here anymore.

We are in times that need profound reflection and redefinition on every level. We are at the verge of disastrous climate change, and the fashion industry, as one of the most powerful and influential on earth, has not only the potential but the responsibility to create and promote sustainable change. Creation and newness has to be geared towards embracing all these environmental, social and ethical issues. If all these brilliant creative minds and forces came together to do this, combined with our individual awareness, imagine the magic.

Marni's Leading Lady, Consuelo Castiglioni — DASH Magazine SS2015

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 08 Apr 2015 14:03:00 +0000

FADE by Cicci Feinstein for Institute Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 08 Apr 2015 14:00:00 +0000

Photography: Cicci Feinstein Instagram: ciccifeinstein - Styling: Graciela Martin @descosido_

Makeup: Virginia Bertolani @virginiamua - Hair: TomomiFukud

Model:Phoebe O'Hanlon @ Premier London

Not So Plain Jane for #NOFILTER Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 27 Oct 2014 09:39:00 +0000

Photography: Laura Cammarata @Laura_Cammarata - Styling: Graciela Martin @descosido_

Makeup: Virginia Bertolani @virginiamua - Hair: Shouichi Nakamichi

Model: Sophia Goslitski at Elite Models London - Photographic assistance: Claudia Guariglia -

Styling assistance: Flavia Souza, Viviana Attard

#NOFILTER is a London based magazine by a team of young creatives who believe that the magazine market is inundated with publications that perpetuate an image and understanding of women that we no longer identify with.

#NOFILTER is a publication that works to remove the expectations that surround us on how we should act as women, but rather is aimed at empowering women to be happy with who they are now.

3000 Copies were distributed all over the English capital at prominent locations like Oxford Circus, Portobello Market, Brick Lane, Picadilly Circus, Regent Street, Dalston and Notting Hill.

#NOFILTER celebrates women as they are and not how they are perceived to be.

Follow all updates through Social Media

https://www.facebook.com/nofiltermagazin

https://twitter.com/nofiltermagazin

http://instagram.com/nofiltermagazin

Liz Black for River Island

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 01 Jul 2014 11:08:00 +0000

River Island, la cadena de high street fashion inglesa , apuntó a la diseñadora de origen venezolano Liz Black como su proxima colaboradora.

La muestra de nueve piezas ideada por Black - que incluye vestidos, piezas separadas, abrigos y accesorios - está inspirada en la Familia Imperial Rusa, con manguitos y detalles evocativos de los huevos Fabergé.
El lanzamiento de la colección se llevará a cabo durante el próximo London Fashion Week en septiembre de este año y estará disponible tanto en las tiendas River Island como en la plataforma online.

UK high street retailer River Island enlists Venezuelan-born Liz Black as their next guest designer.

The nine piece capsule collection - comprising dresses, outerwear, separates and accessories - was inspired by Russia's last Imperial family, with Russian muffs and Fabergé egg cut-out detailing alongside her signature moody prints.

The collection will launch during London Fashion Week's Fashion Film event, and will arrive instores and online at www.riverisland.com in September 2014 with prices ranging from £30 to £100.

Words of Widsdom: Louise Wilson

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 19 May 2014 22:19:00 +0000

Professor Louise Wilson passed away last Saturday May 17. She was a mentor to Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Christopher Kane and all of the great talents that have emerged from the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion course over the past 22 years. Wilson was appointed OBE in 2008 for services to education and the fashion industry, she was considered one of the most influential figures of fashion.

I never met her formally, but I consider myself very lucky just to have heard this advice directly from her at the recent Vogue Festival Fashion Masterclass:

Photo: Chris Brooks. Vogue.co.uk

Louise Wilson's top five tips on how to get ahead in fashion:

Think long-term, not short-term, hence:
1. Have at least one skill and develop it.
2. Understand what manners are and deploy them.
3. Take risks. Failure is OK, you can learn from failure!
4. Be interested in the industry and its breadth - it's surprising how many people are not.
5. Work hard - absorb knowledge and give knowledge.

Piensa a largo plazo, no a corto plazo, por lo tanto:
1. Ten al menos una habilidad y desarróllala.
2. Entiende lo que son los buenos modales y empléalos.
3. Toma riesgos. Está bien fracasar, ¡puedes aprender del fracaso!
4. Interésate por la industria y toda su extensión - la cantidad de personas que no se interesan por ella es sorprendente.
5. Trabaja duro - absorbe conocimiento y da conocimiento.

Descosido on Style.com/Print Issue 06 - Fall/Winter 2014

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Apr 2014 11:32:00 +0000

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE FEATURE ON STYLE.COM

5 Razones Para Amar La Colección Otoño/Invierno 2014 de Chanel

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 02 Apr 2014 09:33:00 +0000

@descosido_ para lightthelove.com

Ningún desfile causó tanto furor esta temporada como el suntuoso centro de compras @CHANEL. Aquí hay cinco poderosas razones por las cuales no podemos dejar de comentarlo:

Foto: @descosido_

1) NOS PUSO A PENSAR
En el año 2014 la vida se ha vuelto un supermercado: todo está a la venta, todo es un bien consumible y desechable que tiene fecha de expiración. ¿Una sátira de la vida moderna? ¿un guiño al consumismo contemporáneo? ¿un intento dadaísta de sacarnos de la anestesia de la cotidianidad? Una imagen de lo mundano puede valer millones, literalmente; sino pregúntenle a Andreas Gursky: su foto 99 Cent II Diptychon, de un supermercado de productos 99 centavos, fue vendida en 2007 por 3.34 millones de dólares, una de las más caras de la historia.

Foto: @descosido_

2) VOLVIMOS A SER NIÑOS
Como si fuera un experimento social, todos los invitados —sin importar quiénes fuesen— se convirtieron en niños en Disneylandia ante la maravilla de aquellos lujosos anaqueles. Inclusive, al final, las más encopetadas y acaudaladas doñas, como si del fin del mundo se tratase, dieron rienda suelta a su deseo de arrasar con todo lo que ahí había (para luego ser detenidas por los guardias seguridad).

Foto: @descosido_

3) LOS ZAPATOS DEPORTIVOS SON OFICIALMENTE ELEGANTES
Algunos lo consideran monstruoso, pero hasta el Lagerfeld sabe que es ridículo ir de compras en tacones de aguja. Además, la misma Cocó Chanel siempre estuvo a favor de la comodidad, no en vano fue ella una de las primeras en poner a las mujeres en pantalones.

Fotos: Cortesía Chanel. A la derecha el primer look desfilado por Cara Delevingne

4) OTOÑO COLORIDO
El mundo se hace cada vez más pequeño y la línea entre las temporadas se hace cada vez más delgada. Ahora es necesario llegar a muchos lugares del mundo donde los climas no son los mismos. Por ello, en Chanel no faltó abundante rosa y naranja para alegrar los usuales tonos oscuros típicos de la temporada.

Foto: @descosido_

5) HAY ALGO PARA TODAS
En un supermercado puedes conseguir todo tipo de mujeres. Lagerfeld se aseguró que eso se tradujera en la colección. Desde el primer look, apto para una veinteañera irreverente, hasta un taller clásico para la que prefiera los códigos tradicionales de la casa.

Foto: @descosido_

EME, Hasta Pronto

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 20 Mar 2014 11:41:00 +0000

"Las revistas son una fuente indispensable de historia cultural, que brindan un vívido y compacto retrato del Zeitgeist (espíritu del momento). "

Horst Moser - Diseñador gráfico, autor y director de arte reconocido mundialmente.

Entre las páginas blanco y negro de El Nacional, se asoma cada jueves una revista colorida que recuerda que en Venezuela no todo es política, malandros y desgracias. Que también hay gente talentosa haciendo cosas maravillosas, recetas deliciosas por probar, consejos útiles para una mamá o una pasarela internacional que te invita a soñar. EME ha llegado a todos los rincones del país; bien sea porque siempre compran el periódico en casa o porque termina en alguna remota sala de espera. Todas hemos visto EME, al menos una vez.

El fin de EME implica mucho más que dejar de ver moda, tips de belleza y estilachos; significa que le han arrancado las páginas al talento nacional que ahí se reseñaba: fotografos, artístas, escritores, músicos, atletas, diseñadores... Se le cierra la ventana a los que ayudan a construir el momento cultural de un país y a los lectores que forman parte de ese proceso. Tal vez, este instante sea una página en blanco; o mejor dicho, una página negra. Pero solo eso, porque existen voces imposibles de silenciar, que solo toman aire para gritar con más fuerza. Venezuela te reencontrará a la vuelta de este largo y profundo suspiro.

Gracias por haberme permitido tener una voz entre tus páginas.

Hasta pronto,

@descosido_

DASH Magazine: Chalayan Master of Transformation

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 26 Feb 2014 15:37:00 +0000

Chalayan Master of Transformation
By Graciela Martin.
DASH Magazine Spring Summer 2014 Issue out now!
Go to http://www.dashmagazine.net to order your copy

Moda Masculina Para Empezar el Año

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 21 Jan 2014 20:32:00 +0000

SBA Report Magazine - Enero

Sexto Sentido: Club Magazine

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 10 Dec 2013 14:15:00 +0000

Club Magazine 67
Sexto Sentido by Graciela Martin

Ashish Celebrates 10 Years at London Fashion Week. And Yes, He's Still Doing Sequins

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 21 Nov 2013 15:28:00 +0000

Ashish Spring Summer 2014 (Style.com)

www.ashish.co.uk

El Día Que Los Fashion Bloggers Le Vendieron El Alma Al Diablo

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 30 Oct 2013 19:51:00 +0000

Artículo de la más reciente edición de la revista NOS.3 por @descosido_
Búscala en la App Store y síguelos en Twitter @RevistaNos3

Altas Siluetas - Club Magazine 66

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 17 Oct 2013 23:34:00 +0000

By @descosido_

www.issuu.com/clubmagazine

Tendencias Que Podrás Usar Por Mucho Tiempo

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 03 Oct 2013 20:14:00 +0000

3 Tendencias Que Podrás Usar Por Mucho Tiempo
por @descosido_
Revista EME de El Nacional. Edición 12 de Septiembre

Enlace al artículo de El Nacional digital AQUÍ

Prada Spring Summer 2014: In Your Face

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 20 Sep 2013 00:09:00 +0000

Prada Spring Summer 2014 backstage. Photo: Prada Instagram

I was actually more drawn to the beautiful murals than the show itself, I am not too sure that is a good thing. So, to me, the pieces that carried some of this work seemed the most interesting. As for the rest, very beautiful and commercial, very Prada with the embellishments and the sporty elements; I can already picture dozens of those pieces and accessories everywhere in the months to come. However, this was not one of those knock-your-socks-off Prada game changers. Sure, no one does it quite like Miuccia, still, the sporty colorblock heel has been done before: of the top of my head I can remember a Ghesquière collection for Balenciaga (I think it was fall 2007) and the embellished rubber flats remind me of the ones Christopher Kane did for SS2012. Hasn't Simons done some face plastering already? Don't get me wrong it's a great collection, I just thought taking cues from the others was more of a Proenza thing.
@descosido_

For more images visit Showstudio.com

My Comment on Balenciaga in STYLE.COM/PRINT Fall 2013

noreply@blogger.com (Anonymous) — Thu, 05 Sep 2013 15:01:00 +0000

Even though I leave comments practically on every show during fashion season on Style.com, it is not every day your words actually get published on a magazine like STYLE.COM/PRINT. I had had the mag for two months before realizing my comment on Wang's debut for Balenciaga was there! So thank you editors at Style.com you have made my entire season.