Destination France 2017

Au Revoir

2017-10-02T05:40:00.000-07:00

Our intention when we came to France this year was to relax, adopt a French lifestyle, and live without goals or expectations. On our 7th extended trip to this beautiful country, and the third time in this particular area, we thought there wasn't much new left to do. We were surprised on all counts.

As it turned out, we experienced many things for the first time: a hot-air balloon ride for our 41st wedding anniversary, a ride on a huge mechanical elephant, and a merry-go-round that was truly fantastical. We visited zoos that are trying desperately to save endangered species and saw white lions looking healthy and content. We walked through an Oriental Garden that was peaceful and regenerating to our inner selves. Of course we learned how to make Crêpe Soufflé and taste tested quite a few during our stay. We enjoyed all those trips to the markets to search for that perfect melon and the sweetest strawberries. We did eat out at restaurants a lot, but still ate well when we prepared something at home. A trip to France is worth it for the food alone! Our schedule turned out to be full and varied, but at a relaxing pace.

When our trip was coming to a close and we had yet to find the information I was seeking about my ancestry, along came a group of people who were the answer to my prayers! Surely my Gobeil and Bilodeau ancestors played a part in leading us to their door. It's exciting to think that this story is ongoing and that we continue to write the family history, even as far away as western Canada.

Those long hours on the Air France flight back to Canada made me reflect on the rich heritage I carry. I am perfectly happy and content to spread my wings in this beautiful Canadian land while being tethered by a bond to France that extends over distance and time. Roots and Wings. It is no wonder I choose to return to France and enjoy all it has to offer, time and time again.

***

"There are two lasting bequests we can give our children.

One is roots. The other is wings."

~ Hodding Carter, Jr.

My Roots: Gobeil - Bilodeau

2017-09-29T13:02:00.000-07:00

"You must be descendants of the Huguenots", Karl's step-father Don said to me over 40 years ago.

"Oh no," I replied. "We have been Catholic forever."

Perhaps that twinkle in his blue eyes indicated a deeper understanding of history than we ever knew.

***

Gobeil is my paternal and Bilodeau is my maternal relation.

GOBEIL

Madame Marguerite Morisson is a retired teacher who has been researching the immigration of the people from les Deux-Sèvres (which includes Niort where my Gobeil ancestors came from) to La Nouvelle-France for over 25 years. At 86 she is a vibrant and intelligent woman who is passionate about her "volunteer work". She is awaiting the publication of her second book on the subject and is a walking encyclopedia of information. I count my lucky stars that my calls and visits to various departments led me to her. I could have sat with her for ages to listen to all the stories, the links and associations between families, the finds in old and ancient documents, and the joie de vivre she brings to the storytelling. This, however, is not a fairytale. It is my story, my history.

We met Madame Morisson at the Departmental Archives of Niort, and we followed her little blue Renault as she sped down familiar roads to "La Ferme de Chey", in the countryside on the outskirts of Niort. This is where Jean Gobeil and Jeanne Guiet lived with their four daughters before leaving for La Nouvelle-France in 1665. Today, this farm is the home of the "Chaleuil dau pays niortais", a cultural centre which is part museum and part opportunity to keep up traditional crafts.

Waiting for us at La Ferme de Chey were Madame Danièle Billaudeau, Monsieur André Triquet and Monsieur Philippe Boireau. Along with Madame Marguerite Morisson, these four volunteers took time from their busy day to welcome us warmly, give us an informative tour of the Chaleuil, and talk about our ancestors, their traditions and way of life.

A chaleuil is a little lamp that was hung in the houses of my ancestors to light the evening. The "Chaleuil dau pays niortais" continues to light the way for those seeking information about their roots and their traditions.

A very old sewing machine, older than the Singer machine found at Mémère Bilodeau's.

Weaving was a big part of what the people from Chey did back in the 17th century.

Danièle Billaudeau, Marguerite Morisson

These are some of the clothes of the era, both for every day and for special occasions.

The bonnets that the women wore have an extremely interesting history.

Round, square, pointed, embroidered, long side ribbons to prove the father was wealthy, and all sorts of subtle differences that carried special messages.

At one time, the women (who were relegated to be seen but not heard) started their own kind of protest by making the peak of their bonnets point forward, in an aggressive fashion, to show that they did not approve of what was happening. Protest through bonnets!

(Rebifiette - signe de rébellion)

La coiffe carrée de Niort - Claque

(Boîte à sucre - Plissée en coeur)

For all you Canadians who may have thought this was some sort of sled, it's not. It is actually put in between the bed sheets and a warming pan is slipped in the middle. The sheets are kept away from the warming pan and have no chance of scorching.

A baby walker and a "jolly jumper" further in the background.

A shower basin. You bathe by pouring water over your head and the water gathers in the pan. The spout is handy to pour the water out.

Karl, snapping photos along the way.

Not just any old shoe. A shoe looking very battered and used. "Moi mes souliers ont beaucoup voyagé." Words from a Québecois song - Felix Leclerc.

Many of the farm tools and implements.

Karl and André talking "old times".

This is a seeder. The blades open the ground, the seeds drop in, and the ground is closed up.

Madame Marguerite Morisson regaling us with wonderful background information. She knows the "sidebar" to everything.

Marguerite Morisson, Marguerite Gobeil, Danièle Billaudeau

We left the area that was the "museum" and walked some of the land of the farm.

Buildings for cows and horses, as well as for people.

There are groups from Québec who have come to learn about their ancestors, and a plaque has been erected to commemorate the visit that occurred in 2008.

The metal pipe coming out of this building is very misleading because the building itself is actually the oldest on the farm.

In another section of the buildings, there are traditional crafts that continue to be taught and produced.

There is the recaning of chairs and the making of various styles of baskets. It is called "vanerie".

André stands next to big baskets that were used to store produce, like big flat white beans that are a specialty of this area.

This basket was used to store fish when going fishing.

Philippe and Karl listen to André explain how rope is made. Four strands are attached to these four hooks. Then they are all attached to the hook an the opposite board where you turn a crank to twist the rope together.

Multiple twists make this an extremely strong rope.

Philippe uses an old vise to demonstrate how to hold a piece of wood that will be honed into a handle for a tool.

André flattens some cane material for the "vanerie".

Peering into the huge communal bread oven.

Looking above my head, I spot the paddle used to load the bread loaves into the oven.

Once the fire has died, the ashes are scraped into this huge vessel. A wet broom-like whisk is used to clean the remnants of any coals before the breads are slipped into the oven. After all, you don't want to find a little piece of coal imbedded in your morning bread!

This is the bread trough where the flour is kept, the bread is mixed and left to rise a first time, and then kneaded. (Under this shiny and modern cover).

All the loaf pans for bread. Many of the breads were round "country loaves" and were put in the oven without a pan.

A cupboard with narrow pull-out shelving where the breads would rise. Perfect for those long baguettes!

One of the Gobeil reunions with a group from Québec.

Our hosts: André Triquet, Danièle Billaudeau, Marguerite Morisson, Philippe Boireau

Marguerite Morisson, Marguerite Gobeil, Danièle Billaudeau - Les Trois Grâces!

A framed painting that Mme Morisson has given to the Chaleuil.

Marguerite Morisson, Karl Trommeshauser, Marguerite Gobeil

André Triquet, Karl Trommeshauser, Marguerite Morisson, Marguerite Gobeil, Danièle Billaudeau

Marguerite, Danièle

Philippe, André

Karl & Marguerite

I was given an incredible amount of information from both the Bilodeau and Gobeil sides of the family. I now know who Jean Gobeil's parents and grand-parents were. I know that the Bioldeau family came from Pioussay, a place in the Deux-Sèvres region. I have a few of the newsletters that the Bilodeau association publishes regularly. I was given a poster of the big event that happened at Chey in 2008. Even a CD of traditional music called "Veillée d'chey nous, Le Chaleuil dau pays niortais." More than all these tangibles, I was made to feel warmly welcomed among family. From 14h 00 to 18h 00, I had a 4-hour history lesson given by "cousins" who were kind and more than generous with their time and knowledge. It is a visit that I will never forget and will cherish forever.

We took time to celebrate the family reconnection with cookies and a generous glass of Pineau, the liqueur which is a specialty of the region.

(I still have many photos of this visit but it is not possible to add all of them to this posting.)

BILODEAU

Danièle Billaudeau is currently the Vice-President of the Genealogical Association. (As an aside, she looks more like a Gobeil than a Bilodeau. I saw a lot of Tante Aline in her features and mannerisms.) She provided me with a detailed file of the Bilodeau family whose spelling changed and morphed over the years.

Jacques Bilodeau, our ancestor, was born around 1636 in Pioussay (Deux-Sèvres) to Antoine Billaudeau and Jeanne Fleury. He arrived in Nouvelle-France in 1652 (earlier than the Gobeil family) on the first ship of the summer season arriving from France that year. He married Geneviève Longchamp in Québec (Notre-Dame), died in 1712 and was buried at St-François, Ile-d'Orléans.

Danièle Billaudeau gave me copies of baptismal and marriage certificates and other precious documents.

BILODEAU - GOBEIL Reunion

As you can see, there have been links between the Bilodeau and Gobeil families since they first immigrated to Nouvelle-France, and even before when they were still in France. The "Association de Famille Billaudeau" has been doing genealogical research for years and has had a few gatherings of all the Bilodeau cousins.

In 2018, there are plans to invite all the cousins with either the Bilodeau or the Gobeil names to come for a big reunion. In my case, that means a double celebration! So far, they anticipate an 11-day affair with 3 days at Chey, then a drive to the Bioldeau area of Pioussay as well. There will be tours of Niort, La Rochelle, St. Malo, Honfleur (think Samuel de Champlain), with meals, song and dance along the way. They hope to be able to billet the group, not just to save money for the travellers, but especially to forge bonds between the cousins, distant as they may be.

They need to reach the critical number of 30 people, from Québec and western Canada, to make this all worthwhile. If for some reason it cannot be organized for 2018, they will attempt to make it happen in 2019.

I mentioned that many of the Bilodeau and Gobeil cousins from western Canada may have lost their spoken French along the way, but they assured me that they would have translators to make sure everybody understands.

It sounds incredibly special and an opportunity that does not happen often in a lifetime. Karl and I have been coming to France for extended stays for years, and this is the first time I have connected with my past so closely. There is a certain resonance that happens when you walk on the land of your ancestors and feel their spirit within you. It's very powerful.

I am not the one who will be organizing the trip for the western cousins, but I will be getting all the information and will gladly pass it on to you. Please advise if you would like to be added to a distribution list. You don't have to have the dual connection of Gobeil and Bilodeau. You can be connected to either of those families and still be welcomed.

***

As we talked about those years back in the 17th century, it felt like the stories were very real and had happened not that long ago. We had but to look around and imagine what it was like to bake bread and look after the children and be worried about the crops and animals. So why did my Gobeil ancestors leave? One possible reason is that the commune was getting crowded. With four girl children, (and girls were not prized as highly as boys), my ancestors may have felt squeezed out. Then there is the matter of religion. The local history of that time, the political climate, as well as the research of baptismal and/or marriage certificates indicate that religious conflicts were at the forefront of their daily lives. Some couples were married at the protestant temple by pastors with biblical names like Abraham, and biblical names were indicative of Protestants at that time. The religious unrest was forcing the people in a large part of France to convert to Catholicism. These poor people must have been torn by their religious beliefs on one hand and their need for survival on the other. If they didn't change allegiance, they were stripped of their rights to work and earn a living, their children were taken away to be brought up in Catholic convents, and the persecution often led to death. Records show that once in Nouvelle-France, confirmations took place to show allegiance to the Catholic Church, but records back in France indicate that these same souls had never been baptized. Many of the Protestant records no longer exist but there is a strong probability that the Gobeil family was caught up in this tumult. I most likely am a descendant of Huguenot ancestors who became Catholic in Nouvelle-France. It was a matter of survival. Now that's food for thought!

***

"We inherit from our ancestors gifts so often taken for granted.

Each of us contains within this inheritance of soul.

We are links between the ages, containing past and present expectations,

sacred memories and future promise."

~ Edward Sellner

Food Finale

2017-09-29T07:43:00.000-07:00

Many of you have really enjoyed reading and looking at the photos of all our food adventures. I can say, however, that eating the food is far more enjoyable than looking at it! One day, perhaps there will be a scratch and sniff and a scratch and taste for a blog! Till then, our food adventures are sadly coming to an end. Here are the last two meals we savoured in restaurants.

Le Moulin de la Sorinière in Neuil les Aubiers was a favourite of ours, and so very close! Around the bend and across from the château on a little country road.

Kir Royale to pique our appetite.

Feuilleté cheese rolls.

We often ordered a sparkling water with our meals although the regular water is free and very good.

The salad was "un genre de salade César". The greens were from the garden and garnished with cucumber, tiny red peppers, chicken slices and some "lardon" which are cooked pork slices, like bacon. A dressing and lots of shredded cheese.

I had the pork tenderloin in a rich and creamy sauce. The sides included sliced carrots, shredded celeriac, and cubed pâtisson (of the pumpkin family). Those tastes together blended extremely well and were delicious!

Karl had the steak in a pepper sauce and the same sides.

We enjoyed a trifle with grapes and peaches. Those crushed wafers are spéculoos.

***

When we went to Niort, we stopped again at Le Grand Café for lunch.

I tried the salmon burger with the fries, a small tossed salad and coleslaw. The fish was very well prepared, moist and tender, not overcooked.

Karl enjoyed potato pancakes with a steak haché in between, and a green salad. We know that not everyone in the Trommeshauser family loves potato pancakes... but Karl has always enjoyed them and thought these were particularly good. As good as the German ones!

We shared a Grand Marnier crêpe, although the flames had gone by the time I snapped the photo.

***

After lunch we headed to meet Madame Marguerite Morisson at "Les Archives départementales de Niort". She was going to bring us to the farm where our Gobeil ancestors came from, so a little gift was in order. We stopped at l'Épicerie, the specialty store where we had bought our candied Angélique and syrup, and figured we'd find an appropriate gift as a token of our appreciation. We bought a "coffre de thé", which is a box filled with a variety of teas. Had we but known what was awaiting us, we would have bought a much more substantial gift, and for four people! Next posting is all about the visit to "La ferme de Chey".

***

"Someone is sitting in the shade today because someone planted a tree a long time ago."

~ Les Brown

Starting our Good-byes

2017-09-25T12:13:00.001-07:00

Today I did some genealogical research in Niort. It's rather difficult to take pictures of meetings and documents, but at least the restaurant makes it into the blog! We do love our food!

We tried a new restaurant (to us) on the main street called La Villa. It was very chic and very delicious.

Rosé wine and spicy chips to start us off.

I had the "travers de porc" which were pork chops cut into thick slices in a bed of rich sauce. More fat than I enjoy, but it's a real delicacy around here. Served with a tiny cast iron pot of rice and veggies.

Karl had the "magret de canard" instead of the "canard confit", which means he ate the breast of the duck rather than the leg. It came with roasted potatoes and beautifully poached peaches.

I had the crème brulée with a Madeleine which is a rather plain and dry cake baked in a tiny little tin.

Karl had a cake-like delicacy with strawberry compote and a mascarpone side.

Karl's grand crème and an Earl Gray for me. The tea came in a Japanese tea pot.

Because we were in Niort where a lot of Angélique is sold, I bought some Angélique confit and some sirop (syrup) for the Soufflé à l'Angélique we hope to make, and a little bag of Angélique tea leaves. It'll be fun to let my friends taste these products since they are new to our taste buds.

***

We also went to Le Trait d'Union for possibly the last time. It was the chef Angélique's birthday, so Vincent was pouring the crémant (champagne) for the restaurant guests. We toasted to our chef's health and happiness!

You know this meal since we've had it before, but it's wonderful to order something that you have tried before and know you will enjoy. The salad was slightly different with a few more yellow tomatoes thrown in the mix, possibly because the melon season is coming to a close.

We both had the quail in the Chateaubriand sauce with the wonderful veggie sides.

Of course we ended with the Soufflé à l'Angélique; as if we could have ordered anything else!

We're not sure when or if we'll be back in this corner of France, so it was sad to say "Au Revoir" to our new found friends. At least we've exchanged email addresses.

***

"The key to knowing joy is being easily pleased."

~ Mark Nepo

The Sea Worlds Merry-Go-Round

2017-09-23T06:07:00.002-07:00

We are back in Nantes (4th time in this city) to visit the incredible Sea Worlds Merry-Go-Round. It is fantasy for adults as well as for children!

A genuine 360 degree theatre, nearly 25m high and 22m in diameter, has been implanted on the banks of the Loire, next to where the big Elephant takes a walk. Its three-tier concrete lace design under a big top is decorated with pediments and guarded by 16 fishermen from every sea in the world.

You climb onto an incredible sculpture where you are a spectator to strange and worrying sea creatures in a colossal 3-tiered cake.

I chose the Sea Dragon for my first ride. (We get two rides for the price of one on Wednesdays!)

Karl chose a little sailboat and tried to keep an even keel.

We witness the sea every which way, from the depths of the bottom, through the abysses, right up to the surface of the sea.

This one is based on a turtle, with exaggerated limbs.

A very odd fish.

That piranha has very scary teeth!!

A colourful crab.

A Killer Whale perhaps?

Here comes the pirate fish.

Wait for it...

It's me riding this menacing creature of the deep!

This must be a French escargot.

It goes down into the deep like a submarine.

This one too goes down and then surfaces before the ride is over.

Perhaps a kind of catfish with all these weird whiskers.

Tiny fish for tiny tykes.

Round and round we go!

Jules Verne?

I think this one reminded Karl of a tandem motorbike because this was his choice for his second ride.

Little did he realize it would be a physical workout to get all those claws moving!

The promoters of the Sea Worlds Merry-Go-Round create a poster every year. They are beautiful works of art in their own right!

***

We are of the opinion that if you are short on time and want to eat well, go back to a restaurant you know so you won't waste time reading every Menu du Jour at every restaurant you come across before making an informed choice. We went back to "Le Bouchon" and were happy we did.

Karl had the salmon rillette which he generously shared with me since I only ordered a Plat du Jour, not the Menu du Jour.

I had a piece of chicken with all sorts of Wok veggies. Because of my nut allergy, they did not add nuts or cook in a nut oil. Whatever they added to it was delicious! Tomatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, sweet potato purée. The "weed salad" was great, despite Karl's frown!

Karl had a beef stir-fry with loads of veggies and peanuts.

Karl finished with the chocolate gâteau which he shared with me. Well, a few bites at least.

***

"Every start upon an untrodden path is a venture

which only in unusual circumstances

seems sensible and likely to be successful."

~ Albert Schweitzer

Les 4 Saisons

2017-09-21T14:22:00.000-07:00

It's the start of Autumn today, so we decided to have our déjeuner at "Les 4 Saisons", (The Four Seasons). Believe it or not, this restaurant is just a few minutes away and we have yet to try it out.

You come in to a bar and then are invited to the dining room in the back. Very lovely with a huge stone fireplace and old medieval walls.

I started with an amazing salad: garden lettuce, quinoa, corn, tomatoes, shredded carrots, tiny red peppers, pork tenderloin pieces and shredded cheese. The vinaigrette was so fresh tasting! When I enquired about the recipe for this vinaigrette, the chef replied through the server that it was apparently just a mayonnaise base "rallongé" with oil, salt, pepper. How can anything so simple taste so good!

Karl had the charcuterie plate, so a mix of pâté, ham and salamis. And a few pickles.

You sometimes wonder how a restaurant in the middle of nowhere can do such a thriving business, but all the workers in the area show up at the local restaurants for their lunch. They may be working on the roads or driving trucks or making farm deliveries. Once a restaurant establishes its reputation for good food at a reasonable price, the workers pour in.

Karl and I both had the duck with French fries. The rosé wine was included in the "Menu du Jour".

The dessert was a pineapple tart that tasted really sunny, like Hawaii.

It's usually Karl's café crème that finishes up the meal, but I had to add this little teapot with my Earl Grey. Not all restaurants carry my favourite tea, so it's a treat when I find it, and especially in such a cute little pot.

We will try to come back, although the countdown to our departure has begun...

***

"Everyone needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in,

where Nature may heal and cheer and give strength to body and soul alike."

~ John Muir

Soufflé à l'Angélique

2017-09-19T07:13:00.000-07:00

Karl and I raved about the Soufflé à l'Angélique served at "Le Trait d'Union Restaurant" in Thouars from the very first spoonful. It is simply exquisite! It is light and airy and heavenly. So when the chef invited us to come for a private cooking class to watch her prepare this food fit for angels, we accepted with the greatest pleasure.

Angélique is both the name of the chef and a type of plant cultivated in the wetlands for centuries and used for anything from liqueur to ice-cream.

Before starting this recipe, make sure you have organised all the necessary ingredients.
Place milk in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
In a mixing bowl, tip the whole eggs and egg yolks, then add the castor sugar and combine with a whisk. It will lighten in colour. Beat vigorously with a whisk until the preparation is pale and fluffy.
Incorporate the corn starch slowly.
Combine well. Make sure there are no lumps.
When the milk starts boiling, pour half of it into the egg mixture and combine well.
Then transfer the entire preparation into the saucepan used to boil the milk, where there is still half the milk remaining.
Cook over medium heat for 4 or 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Make sure the cream does not stick to the bottom of the pan.
Add candied Angélique.
The crème pâtissière is ready when it has a thick consistency.
Transfer into a cold receptacle, preferably a flat one so the preparation will cool evenly and quickly.
To prevent the formation of a crust, place some plastic wrap in direct contact with the surface of the cream.

Soufflé à l'Angélique

The recipe is for one crêpe. Multiply ingredients for the number of crêpes you wish to make. Make up to 8 servings at once, but for more people, make two batches.

Use a weigh scale and be sure to measure accurately.

60g crème pâtissière*

30g egg whites

pinch of salt

1 tsp. icing sugar

A few drops of Angélique liqueur

*(If the crème pâtissière sat in the fridge overnight, you can mix it again, even with a mixer, until it is sleek and homogenous. Bring it to room temperature.)

In a restaurant where this recipe is made often, they use containers of egg whites rather than cracking so many eggs. Use your mixer to whip the egg whites and the pinch of salt, starting at a slow speed. Add the icing sugar and increase the speed of your mixer until the egg whites reach a lovely peak.

Fold half of the egg whites into your crème pâtissière to soften it, then put all of this mixture in the remainder of the egg whites. Continue to fold. Be sure to keep a lot of air in your mixture, so don't fold vigorously. This is the secret: If you mix too much, your soufflé will flatten.

In the classic soufflé, it is baked and presented in a "tête de lion" bowl, a lion's head bowl that is oven-proof. Once buttered and sugared, the soufflé mixture is added until it reaches the level of the lion's head, allowing the soufflé to rise over the bowl to the right height.

For our Soufflé à l'Angélique: liquid egg whites; salt.

Be sure to measure accurately using a weigh scale.

The crème pâtissière has been weighed accurately as well.

The egg whites, beaten to a lovely peak.

Folding egg whites and crème pâtissière, gently.

Angélique demonstrates how you put the crêpe halfway onto your oven-proof plate and spoon your mixture on the crêpe. The mixture must not touch the plate.

The crêpe itself must not touch its other side or fold far enough to touch the plate after it's folded. If so, the soufflé will not have room to rise.

Also, the size of the crêpe makes a difference since if it's too large it will crisp on the edges and get brittle in the baking.

Place in a preheated 180 degree C convection oven for 8 minutes.

While waiting for the soufflés to bake, we tasted the Angélique liqueur. We thought it reminded us of the forest and of Christmas. There was also time for Karl to have a coffee.

The soufflés are ready!

Look at the height, the airy texture!

There are various flavours that you can add at this stage of the presentation. You could have added candied orange peel to your crème pâtissière and at this stage add a sprinkle of Grand Marnier. You could have added a vanilla bean when the milk was boiling and now add some maple syrup. Just ensure that you do not add liquids to change the consistency of the soufflé; use candied fruit instead.

Time to sprinkle them with icing sugar powder and add a scoop of sorbet in a little bowl on the side.

The plate is hot so it is served on another plate.

It is definitely as delicious as all the other times we've tried it!

My stars in heaven!

Angélique, you are a master at this! I wonder if the soufflé was named for the plant or for your namesake. I think it might be both.

You are a generous person to have taken the time to teach us this recipe while managing your staff and preparing the restaurant for the busy lunch crowd.

Please accept our thanks and deep appreciation for this truly special gift. It will definitely rank as a highlight of our trip to France this year!

www.letraitdunion-restaurant.com Vincent and Angélique

***

"Be happy in the moment, that's enough.

Each moment is all we need, not more."

~ Mother Teresa

SAINT-CLÉ s'EXPOSE

2017-09-18T06:56:00.000-07:00

It was Saint-Clémentin's time to have a village fair. The temperature was hovering at 14 degrees and the clouds threatened to burst much of the day, as it had when we woke to a deluge. There must have been some kind angels looking over the village because the weather actually allowed the good town folk to bring out their wares for a "vide grenier" (much like a communal garage sale), exhibit their antique cars, and let the kids have a spin on the merry-go-round. Only then did the rain resume its tempest.

I absolutely love these "vide grenier" events. You never know what kind of treasure lurks in someone's attic or garage - like this very old sewing machine.

A lifetime's passion of collecting key chains.

For your literary pursuits.

Oh my! I hope all the slides have been transferred to digital.

A butane lamp, or what's left of it.

The fair took place in the square next to the church.

This vendor staked his space under the street sign: Rue du Château. I couldn't help but think these were "Les hardes du château", the castoffs from the castle.

Lots of local produce available. Many brought the last of what's in their gardens.

This smiling gent was keen to show us how to use this spade to dig for oysters.

Someone gave up their oil painting career.

These little squash are delicious stuffed with minced meat. In fact, most grocery stores sell minced meat already seasoned for this purpose.

The kids went for a spin, round and round. This was the fastest merry-go-round I've ever seen. Their hair was flying!

For the adults, other pleasures to make their heads spin. The "Buvette" served wine, beer, cider, and other shot glasses of a liquid and colour unfamiliar to me. We ate some fries and they were so good, it's no wonder they are known as "French" fries!

All things honey, including honey beer. Have you ever had honey beer? I should have bought a bottle.

The antique cars display. Very different than those from North America since they deal with European makes and models.

All types of goat cheese.

I was actually more interested in the Paris case used for storing the cash than with the jewelry.

A still working bellows for 3 Euros. What a bargain!

French cookbook for 1 Euro. It looked brand new! Too bad it was so heavy for my suitcase.

The alligator face is still there, in case you don't believe this is pure alligator skin...

I was looking for easels a while back. These looked in really good condition.

Ladders for a trade worker, or for someone washing tall windows.

Galvanized tubs.

When I showed interest in this tea set, the woman opened the box and showed me the entire set which must have served 8! The creamer was still there, but not the sugar bowl.

We eyed this little heater and wondered if it was still working. We could use it in our rental place. Those stone walls are good at keeping things cool in the summer, but keep things mighty cold when the temperature dips. Our thermometer indicates that it's cooler in the house than outside!

Look at this great laser level!

This is the house across from us and we drive by it every time we go somewhere. It was built by the owner, a mason, and looks so beautiful. We just love it.

So went the little Village Fair in St. Clémentin, the town with a sense of humour in its advertising: Saint-Clé s'Expose.

***

"Our walls of division do not rise all the way to heaven."

~ Metropolitan Philaret of Moscow

Nantes - Third Time A Charm

2017-09-16T09:09:00.002-07:00

There are a number of videos in this posting. Unless you are in an internet browser instead of an email browser, you will not be able to see them. Double click on the title, "Nantes - Third Time A Charm" above to get to the proper browser. Be sure to have your volume on.

Many of you have heard of "Les Machines de l'Île". Two of them, the dragon (Long Ma) and the spider (Kumo), were in Ottawa to celebrate the 150th anniversary of our country. When I heard they were there in July, I thought "I come to France to see the Machines and they are back in Canada!" Thank goodness there was still so very much to see here in Nantes.

Located on the site of the former shipyards which closed in 1987, Les Machines de l'Île is part of the Île de Nantes urban renewal project. In the Parc des Chantiers, a former hub for shipbuilding, these machines first came to life in 2007 with the Grand Éléphant and Galerie des Machines.

This spider is very scary! Long spindly legs reach out and propel the spider along when it is walking on the ground, but it gets hoisted up as well, as though it is dangling on its web.

The Galerie is a living space showcasing a veritable bestiary of machines. This one is a caterpillar.

This caterpillar goes up and down with the driver propelling it with hand controls.

Coming in 2021, a huge tree where two mechanical herons will live on its upper branches. This branch that Karl is standing on (20 metric tons and 20 meters long) is the first part of a monumental tree that will have 22 branches in all. This "Arbre aux Hérons" will be a steel tree 50 meters in diameter and 35 meters high. Once complete, you will be able to walk from branch to branch in the amazing hanging gardens, and take a ride under the herons' wings.

This is a prototype of one of the herons. Amazing!

An ant that will be among many, scrambling under the branches of the Heron Tree.

This was a flying machine enclosed in a steel cage, lifted by a little crane.

The Heron Tree that they are building will be filled with plant life that is both real and fantasy. Look at the Venus flytrap with its mechanical teeth!

More bugs and insects that will be part of the Heron Tree. I can only imagine how huge it will be and how jaw dropping it will be to look around and gaze at the creativity.

A grasshopper.

Karl, be careful that this crocodile doesn't turn around and snap at you!

Many ideas have come and gone, and many have made it as sea creatures in the Marine Worlds Carousel, like the Pirate Fish on the left and the Manta Ray below.

A fantastical fish in the deep sea...

The sculptures are built in the workshop of the company La Machine, before the public's eyes. It is a laboratory where the possibilities of mixing culture and urban planning are explored.

A Minotaur taking shape.

Wasn't this the dragon that made it to Ottawa? It's in China right now.

The ride I was looking forward to the most - the Elephant Ride. What a thrill!

This is taken from the inside of the elephant. There are numerous storeys and a circular staircase. On top, a canopied platform.

Being on the back of the Grand Éléphant is like being on the 4th floor of a travelling house, with a breathtaking view of the former shipyards.

Beautiful sculptures and décor everywhere you look.

Once aboard, you see the moving gears that power the legs. The elephant blasts its trunk and sprays gawkers with water.

Can you see the eye of the elephant? Just its eyelashes are larger than a broom and the eye lid opens and closes. I was able to take a peek photo in between the ear flaring out and closing in.

When this majestic animal goes out for a walk, it is like architecture in motion.

Look at the ear. I bet a few cows had to give up their lives to produce enough leather for this!

Definitely a highlight of our trip!

***

"We do not believe in ourselves until someone reveals that something deep inside us is valuable, worth listening to, worthy of our trust, sacred to our touch.

Once we believe in ourselves we can risk curiosity, wonder, spontaneous delight

or any experience that reveals the human spirit."

~ e.e. Cummings

Nantes - second time round

2017-09-13T13:08:00.000-07:00

"The best-laid plans of mice and men..."

We came back to Nantes with three things on our to-do list. We managed one. It's not that we were lost or too slow to get everything done. Rather, we just got distracted easily and poked into stores, browsed little back streets, and wandered quite aimlessly with our eyes looking up at all the grandeur that is Nantes.

The "Passage Pommeraye" is one of the most beautiful shopping malls I've ever seen, a masterpiece of XIXth century architecture. It spans three levels with a monumental staircase at its centre. This is where the concept of "lèche-vitrine" came about, and window shopping became a stylish thing to do. Those dark and dreary enclosed stores opened their wares to the public eye with grand windows that allowed the passers-by to look inside - and dream.

We finally found an electric crêpière which Karl has been wanting for years. It's made of cast iron and once you spread your crêpe batter, you smooth it out with a little wooden paddle and it cooks very evenly. The one we saw was professional grade and cost only 240 euros, about $360! It weighed a ton. Well, at least too heavy to pack in our suitcase. I think we'll continue using our griddle pan.

When you look up on the street lining the "Île Feydeau", you see magnificent examples of the city's architecture. The old shipbuilders' houses are built in tufa stone, decorated with ornamental faces and wrought-iron balconies.

Basilica St. Nicolas.

Having lunch at "La Cigale" is the only thing we accomplished on our to-do list!

The restaurant is a little gem of Art Nouveau décor. People come here for the ambiance, the gold, the mirrors and the ceramics. You look around and feel transported to another era.

I had the gravlax as an entrée.

Karl had a goat cheese mousse with wonderful peppers and spices with a small green salad.

We both enjoyed the duck. At first we thought the duck was sitting on fries, but they were turnips cut in julienne strips.

I had the crème brulée and Karl had the chocolate cake with a caramel interior.

It's a joy to be in this city. I guess we'll have to come back to Nantes at least one more time, maybe more!

***

"Never lose a holy curiosity."

~ Albert Einstein

Friends and Food

2017-09-13T07:26:00.000-07:00

My last posting left off with me looking for chocolate goodies to bring to Aaron and Wayne's house. It was such a lovely evening, shared with old and new friends. We attended a Circle of Missé* writing course back in 2010, where Wayne taught and Aaron cooked. We've stayed in touch ever since.

Helen, who had taken the course with us, was there with her husband Nick, and this is the gorgeous basket of goodies they brought. I do believe a few bottles of wine had already been taken out at this point! The grapes are from their garden.

Aaron started us off with sautéed mushrooms on a crostini rubbed with garlic.

Circle of Missé was starting a new writing course, so there were students and a lead guest writer joining us for dinner. This makes for very lively and interesting conversation.

The kitchen is just so beautifully done. They had a fire in the chimney a few years back which allowed them to undertake some renovations to their space. Walls came down, new appliances and cabinetry came in, and the place is now a chef's dream kitchen. (Did you notice the TWO dishwashers?)

Next course was torn pieces of baguette dipped in balsamic vinegar and oil, then sprinkled with coarse salt.

A delicious "lasagna di carciofi, pinoli e primosale". It usually has roasted pine nuts on top, as the piece below shows, but mine above was done without the nuts. No allergic reaction wanted this evening!

Aaron had dipped some fresh figs in dark chocolate and sprinkled them with salt.

These are the little cakes I bought at the bakery. They were mousse bombs covered with dark or white chocolate, and some had raspberry coulis on top. Little chocolate wafers on each bomb.

The Vouvray champagne was chilling at this point.

We had a delightful evening!

* Link to the Circle of Missé posting I wrote in 2010:
http://france-encore.blogspot.fr/2010/06/circle-of-misse.html

***

The next night, we went out for dinner with the hosts of the cottage we are renting, Brenda and Roger. We introduced them to a restaurant they weren't familiar with: Le Trait d'Union in Thouars. I have to say that they enjoyed it as much as we did! The food is truly above par and consistently so. We have never had a bad meal there.

The salad is a meal in itself, with thinly sliced melon, red and yellow tomatoes, ham wrapped with cream cheese, herbed bocconcini, and a little vinaigrette salad on top.

Three of us enjoyed the quail. It came with puréed yam, mushrooms, mangetout snow peas, zucchini casserole, and roasted potatoes.

One of us went with the fish, a "lieu jaune" in a beurre blanc sauce. There were three different kinds of wine and some Perrier. We feasted!

And the pièce de résistance, what we all came for: the "Soufflé à l'Angélique". Oh my! Such a fluffy soufflé encased in a crêpe and dusted with icing sugar powder. It looks huge, but it is so light and airy that we swallow it up in no time. The raspberry sorbet on the side had intense flavour and was a perfect match to the soufflé.

Believe it or not, when talking to Vincent (the owner), I mentioned how I would love to learn how to make that soufflé, so he invited me to come to the restaurant one morning when they're not too busy, and they will give me the recipe and show me how to make it! A cooking class, no less! You can bet I will not pass up this opportunity.

Another wonderful evening spent with new found friends. Brenda and Roger have such interesting backgrounds and are very comfortable to be with. We had hoped the evening would last longer!

***

"People don't care how much you know until they know how much you care."

~ Mike McKnight

Ramblings

2017-09-10T08:07:00.000-07:00

Instead of visiting museums and castles, it would appear that the last few days were spent just rambling along, chatting with people. How very interesting to hear their thoughts and get their perspective on life in general.

I got my hair cut by Alexandra this week, at the same Salon Eden that Karl went to. When she found out I lived in Canada, she wanted to know how often I got together with my family. When I said that my nearest brother or sister lived 13.5 hours away by car, she was so surprised that I didn't live closer to them. She seemed to think that all families reserve week-ends to get together, and when it isn't just the parents and their children, then it includes grand-parents, aunts and uncles and cousins... Most often, the family gatherings are on Sunday. She seemed to find it a difficult concept to process that we should all live so far apart.

She did cut off a LOT of hair! When I saw my last photo in Nantes with my hair sticking out from under my hat like a clown at a circus, I thought it was time to get rid of some of that mane.

We were in Cholet and witnessed a wedding procession. The cars were decorated, the horns were blaring, and the wedding party was waving from the open windows. Everyone on the street came to a stop and waved back with big smiles. A beautiful way to go from the church to the reception. We do this in Canada too, but I don't think all the people on the street get so excited about waving back, as though the bride and groom are royalty.

We did some shopping in that town, trying to find more of those table napkins that I bought early on in our trip. We came across lots of fashion and shoe stores, but no kitchen linen stores.

Until I came across a woman with a big hat who was standing outside a store, watching all who went by. I decided to approach her to see if she might know where I could find a kitchen store. She did know where, but it took a while to get the name out. She was having trouble remembering and then finally told me her woes. Her house had burnt down with everything in it. Then she had a massive heart attack and now has two stents. She also had a stroke which affected her memory. There was a Sephora store next to us, a store for make-up and perfume. She wanted to tell me what perfume she wears but couldn't remember the name, so we went into the store but she couldn't find the pear-shaped bottle. It was such a source of frustration for her. But although she never did come up with the name of her perfume, she remembered where "Eurodif" was, a store specializing in linens, which turned out to be just what I was looking for! Her instructions were to get to the Merry-Go-Round and it would be kitty-corner to it.

Say Merry-Go-Round and I'm in! I just love the "Manège" and try to ride whenever I can, although Karl never wants to join in.

The gentleman who sold me the ticket asked if it was for a boy or a girl. When I said it was for me, he noticed the accent and asked if I was from Québec. The conversation went from there to us being best friends in very quick order!

He had visited Canada years ago and remembered how welcoming the people from Montréal and Québec City were. He wanted to do something for me in appreciation for all that Canadians had once done for him. So he settled me into my little "carriage" and said he had a surprise for me.

When the music started, it was a song from Québec: "Gens du Pays", the unofficial anthem of Québec written by Gilles Vigneault. When that song finished, he started another, and I continued going round and round, the only one on the carousel!

He talked about how France was changing, that people were not as friendly, sometimes downright rude, and he didn't like the general feel anymore. I haven't noticed that, but then he meets a lot of people in a day, so he has a different perspective.

He noticed Karl taking photos, so he came to shake his hand and invited him to sit next to me for a free spin. So off we went, to yet more music from Québec artists. It seems the sun came out just for us!

He said he would just love to work in Canada, especially in Québec since his English is non-existent. He asked if I could put in a good word with the mayor! When we left, he shook our hands and told us to say hi to Robert and Claude, referring of course to Robert Charlebois and Claude Léveillée, which was the music he had played for us. What a kind man!

Dinner at the Moulin de la Sorinière is always a treat. We started off with a salad filled with small pieces of cucumber, red peppers, and cooked pork. The vinaigrette was so good I had to ask for the recipe: tomato vinegar (never heard of this...), mustard and olive oil.

I had the "lieu noir" (Pollock fish from Norway) in a beurre blanc sauce, with red cabbage, mushroom and carrot sides.

Karl had the steak in a pepper sauce and the same sides.

We both had the Trifle with red berries for dessert, with a sprinkling of ground up speculoos cookies (spiced shortcrust biscuit) and some grated chocolate.

We wanted to attend Mass today, but we hadn't read the schedule right. There aren't enough priests to have services in every church on every Sunday, so they take turns, and today was not for St. Clémentin. Still, we had the church all to ourselves to tour at our leisure and pray in a quiet atmosphere

The birds were circling the steeple; a greeting committee.

We've been invited for dinner at friends this evening and it was suggested that wine and chocolate would be appreciated. Where can you find a Chocolatier opened on Sunday! Off we went to Bressuire. In fact, most stores were closed and the streets were barred so that a Sunday market could spread its wares in the middle of the street.

I am not familiar with Tourteaux. (Gâteau rond du Poitou constitué par une pâte brisée recouverte d'une préparation au fromage de chèvre et à l'œuf qui forme une calotte d'un brun presque noir .) They are goat cheese pies with an egg topping baked to a dark colour, and eaten as dessert. Not what I had in mind for tonight...

Expensive little PJs, but cute with their fuzzy raccoons and bunnies.

On our way back to the car, I saw an elderly gentleman holding a pastry box. I never hesitate to stop and talk with people, so I asked him where he had found some sweets on a Sunday. He told me he had put in an order yesterday for a cake for his grand-daughter who was celebrating her 7th birthday today. He assured me that "Aux délices du Palais" is a quality pastry shop, and he should know because he's been trying various pastry shops for 90 years! He looked good for his age, walking slowly but without a cane, and looking alert and excited to be with his family this afternoon. It was a 20 minute drive from Bressuire and I do believe he was going to be driving himself.

The gentleman was right - this pâtisserie was beautiful and smelled divine! We bought a box (or two) of little cakes so we're all set for tonight. The Vouvray pétillant is chilling. After all, this is an evening when old friends get together again after years of absence, so it's celebratory!

***

"In the silence of listening, you can know yourself in everyone,
the unseen singing softly to itself and to you."

~ Rachel Naomi Remen

Hotellerie St. Jean

2017-09-07T03:39:00.003-07:00

A quiet evening when we didn't feel like cooking. Off we went to "Hotellerie St. Jean" in Thouars where reservations aren't required. This is a hotel with 18 rooms and many business people stop here on their journey. The restaurant is always open.

Curried pickles had quite a kick.

We both had the salad with smoked duck breast slices.

I enjoyed the pork tenderloin with chanterelle mushrooms, roasted potatoes, peas and carrots.

Karl had the lamb shoulder on white beans, carrots and peas. He said it was ok but not fantastic.

We both finished off with a lemon meringue pie which was more sweet than tart.

***

"It is not the answer than enlightens, but the question."

~ Eugène Ionesco

Nantes - for starters

2017-09-06T09:51:00.000-07:00

Nantes, with its population of 288,000, is the sixth largest city in France and has a lot to offer. Regularly quoted in newspapers as being one of the nicest cities in France, Nantes is also renowned for being a rich, lively and innovative city.

We started our tour at its core, the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul. The construction of this imposing building was spread over 457 years. Its twin towers and the flamboyant gothic walls enclose a huge and beautiful place of worship.

The tomb of François II and Marguerite de Foix.

The Cathedral is a stunning Renaissance sculpture masterpiece. We listened to an organ concert in late afternoon. What acoustics!

Remembering Terry and all those relatives and friends who are struggling with health issues.

The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany, and the last castle on the banks of the Loire before the Atlantic ocean. This is the home of the History of Nantes Museum, covering a period of 500 years.

We took a ride on "Le Petit Train" to get a feel for the city and to situate all the sites we want to visit. There is actually a "Green Line" painted on the streets throughout the city that you can follow by foot or by bike to see all the main attractions, but it is about 14 km long. We realized that the city is so large and so full of interesting things, we will have to come back a few times, hence why this post is called "Nantes - for starters".

An overcast day with a bit of a cool breeze, but we were dressed for it. Better than 32 degrees of sweltering heat! The following photos were taken from a moving train on cobblestone streets, so the focus is not always perfect.

Beautiful wrought iron balconies in the apartments above the commercial stores.

Place Royale. The pedestrianized square surrounds the central blue granite fountain. The marble statue representing Nantes armed with a trident dominates the bronze representation of the Loire and the four rivers running into it: Erdre, Sèvre, Cher and Loiret.

The Graslin Quarter, with its central square and Opera House. It is surrounded by semi-pedestrianized streets. As dusk falls, the lights around the fountain in the middle of the square start to play.

It is a very clean city; this is packaging material.

We are enjoying this!

Heading towards the Isle of Nantes. There used to be rivers flowing through more parts of the city than now, but they have been filled and redirected. The former industrial quarter and docks metamorphosed into a top spot for a town centre walk in a stylish urban project.

Next to the bridge (we can't see it from this angle) is The Memorial to the Abolition of Slavery. 2000 commemorative plaques are a reminder of every slave ship that ever left Nantes as well as the main trading posts in Africa and America.

Shipyard Park. This public park covers 13 hectares and is set on the former ship-building yards which closed down in 1987. The two Titan cranes are remnants of the industrial era and rise up above the western part of the Isle. This yellow one was put on site in 1955 to raise boat blocks and enable assembly on the slipway.

Part of "La Fabrique" (artistic laboratory).

The "Île Feydeau". A magnificent example of the city's architecture evoking the extravagant way of life the maritime traders led in the 18th century, when the port of Nantes was the biggest in France and one of the most important in Europe.

The Rue Kervegan evokes the Dutch colony of the time.

Love the name of this shoe store: "Aux pieds des Anges" - At the Feet of Angels, or On the Feet of Angels.

We had our déjeuner at "Le Bouchon", which is off the tourist path and frequented by the locals.

Found the lighting in the restaurant very interesting.

A cold carrot soup with pieces of cheese, chives and bacon bits. The red streak was beet purée and I wish I had used my bread to get every little drop...

Besides two hungry patrons, look at the lighting behind me. They used a spoon to reflect the little light onto the wall, which made it look like candlelight!

I had a large round cod fish egg roll. Can't think of another way to describe it. It was delicious and sat in a spicy tomato purée with a "weed" salad on the side. At least that's what Karl called the greens. With all the bean sprouts and veggies wrapped in that little package, it was very filling.

Karl had a chicken stir fry with green curry which he absolutely loved.

We both had a chocolate gâteau, which I would call fudge it was so rich! A scoop of Chantilly cream decorated with strawberries.

Wanted to show you the saucer to this cup. It has a peg which fits into the bottom of the cup, so the cup is always centered. Very clever!

So much to see and we haven't even gone to the Jules Verne museum, Les Machines, etc. We'll be back soon.

***

"Mountains and oceans have whole worlds of innumerable wondrous features.

We should understand that it is not only our distant surroundings that are like this,

but even what is right here, even a single drop of water."

~ Dogen Zenji

Zoo de la Flèche

2017-09-03T12:41:00.001-07:00

We had a few reasons to want to see another zoo. The "Zoo de la Flèche" is among the top 5 zoos in France. It also has a weekly series on TV with cases that the vets have to solve. Whether it's pulling out an eagle's broken feather or assisting in the birth of one of the animals, it's all very interesting and educational.

The entry fee is steep, but that's because the money goes towards the care of the animals, education, and helping people build a rapport with the animals which leads to a desire to protect them.You can also be "Keeper for the Day" and follow one of the zoo keepers around, feeding the animals and seeing how things are run behind the scenes.

The best reason to want to come to this particular zoo is that there are white lions! And they had two new male cubs in May of this year. We had never seen a white lion, so this was special.

A flamboyance of flamingos.

The zoo is set up so that, most of the time, there is glass between us and the animals. The animals are in open air and it is us who feel like we're on display to the animals! It's no doubt great for the benefit of the animals since they are not distracted by our noise or our smell, but it makes it very difficult for us to take photos through glass!

Ah yes, those beautiful, slinky, slithery, scaly snakes! Came across boas, rattlers, anacondas... Karl didn't enjoy this very much since he finds them creepy.

Lizards and iguanas.

The birds are colourful and loud, but difficult to photograph because they hide in the leaves.

Whoops! Feeling a little tipsy, are we? Must be that over indulgence of seeds...

Did you know that giraffes have purple tongues? The tongue is exposed to the sun a lot when eating on leaves above their heads, so the lack of blood in the tongue may prevent sunburn. Also, because there is no sensation in the tongue, they can eat plants with sharp thistle-like edges and feel no pain.

A lot of the animals are shy and have their backs to us. That, or they can't see us on the other side so don't realize they should be posing for our cameras!

Monkeys with white faces and shawls.

An emu. A face only a mother could love!

Tiger siesta.

Kangaroos. The wallabies are close by.

Those elusive leopards! Came back a couple of times to see them and finally got a few good shots.

Hippos. When I see their short legs and their funny little tails, I swear they are just big pigs. Wonder if they're in the same family... It is said that hippos are one of the most dangerous animals to encounter.

Little meerkats having a snooze.

We attended a bird "spectacle". It was amazing, but those birds are too fast for my camera. I got lots of shots of wing tips and tail feathers!

A pod of pelicans.

There's absolutely no bird or animal to see in this photo; just a beautiful little waterfall.

Chimp pretending it's difficult to balance on a rope.

More monkey business!

Red panda. Maybe had too much rosé... I mean sun.

Rhinos.

Did you know that owls can swivel their necks 280 degrees?

This is a large zoo and a bit confusing to get around. We got lost a few times, and when someone like Karl is having a difficult time following the map, we know that the map is not the greatest or the zoo hasn't been designed all that well. At the Bioparc de Doué la Fontaine, we always turned right, no matter where we were, and we didn't miss a thing.

These birds are standing on one leg, "à la Becky"!

Ooooh! A couple of black panthers roughhousing behind this log.

Probably my favourite animal - the elephant. I find them so regal, so patient, solid as a rock.

I even like their smell, and it is a powerful musky smell.

Karl loves elephants too!

Bless this wonderful animal who has no qualms with her wrinkles or cellulite. She's at peace with herself and knows that the important things in life are more than skin deep.

***

"No matter where life takes you, the place that you stand at any given moment is holy ground.

Love hard. And love wide. And love long. And You will find the goodness in it."

~ Susan Vreeland

Moulin de la Sorinière

2017-09-02T11:27:00.002-07:00

English in la France Profonde? Why not! A romantic dinner out.

Kir Royale with cheese puff pastry spirals.

Quiche with small garden vegetables and goat cheese, plus a little green salad on the side.

I had the chicken in a creamy garlic sauce, accompanied with red cabbage, zucchini and leek mixture, and those wonderful mashed potatoes with lots of butter and cream.

Karl had the same sides but with a steak in a cream sauce which he said was out of this world!

I had a crème brulée with orange liqueur.

Karl had a trifle with small red berries in the bottom,

and some crumbled crunchy cookies for topping.

The coffee is SO good here because the cream arrives hot in a little container so you can add as little or as much as you want.

Le Moulin de la Sorinière is becoming a favourite because it's consistently delicious, the service is impeccable, and since the restaurant is part of a hotel, it's almost always open. Oh, and it's about 13 minutes from here! We love it!

***

"Piglet noticed that even though he had a very small heart,

it could hold a rather large amount of gratitude."

~ A.A. Milne

La Rochelle

2017-09-01T04:39:00.000-07:00

Love this city! It has charm, history, grit, culture and great restaurants! It's also large enough to make it difficult to park downtown, so we parked in one of the suburbs and took the shuttle to the "Centre Ville". With this "cogs and wheels" art display, it's easy to remember where we have to catch our "navette".

La Rochelle is a two-hour drive from Voulmentin, so we arrived just in time for "déjeuner". We've been eating a lot of French food, so we thought we'd shake it up a bit by eating Italian for lunch. Loved the photo of the owner and his sons... "L'Italien" is the name of the restaurant.

Delicious veal parmigiana served with spaghetti. Of course bread, water and wine.

And coffee.

Saw this print and it reminded me of Becky and Florence who both have it in their homes!

La Rochelle is easy to explore on foot, though its cobbled streets and arcades can be congested with tourists.

We walked the city all afternoon and really enjoyed it, despite the sprinkling of rain and the gusty wind coming off the Atlantic. La Rochelle has been a commercial centre and busy port since the 11th century.

I imagined my cousin Richard when we passed this store that was being renovated. "Un metre trois", the boss called out to his co-worker.

No matter where we go in France, there are "boulangerie, pâtisserie" stores everywhere, even in the smallest towns. In a place like La Rochelle, there are some on every block it seems! As prevalent as Starbucks back home.

Porte de La Grosse Horloge. This Big Clock Gate, built in the 14th century, separates the port and the city.

There was a puppet dangling from the gate which attracted much attention.

Can you see the puppet dangling from this side of the Gate?

"L'Académie de la bière", the Beer Academy. This is a bar specializing in all kinds of beers from different origins, appealing to all tastes. They even educate you on the characteristics of each beer while serving you!

We came to La Rochelle specifically to do a bit of genealogical research. I started off by visiting the "Tour de la Chaîne", the round tower on the right. They have a big exhibit there on the people who left this port for La Nouvelle-France (Canada). It deals with all emigration and slavery as well.

The glory of La Rochelle is the old harbour surrounded by stately buildings. The harbour is now the biggest yachting center on France`s Atlantic coast. On either side of the entrance are "Tour de la Chaîne" and "Tour St-Nicolas". A huge chain used to be strung between them to ward off attack from the sea.

The "Tour de la Lanterne" has inner walls covered in graffiti by prisoners, mostly mariners, from the 17th-19th centuries. Ships are the most common motif.

These are the Tour de la Chaîne and Tour St-Nicolas that guard the harbour entrance, but seen from the Atlantic Ocean side. We took a little shuttle boat to cross the harbour.

We made our way to La Médiathèque, a huge building of information. It is like a Bibliothèque, which holds books, but this holds all sorts of media and very few books. You do most of your research on computers but can rent videos, CDs, etc. I spoke with a very helpful woman in the "Patrimoine" section and she gave me a contact in the "Archives départementales". We're getting closer to the confirmation of some of the ancestral information we have.

In this part of the harbour, there are pleasure craft, fishing boats, huge cruisers. It's also where the Maritime Museum and the Aquarium are located.

A big Ferris Wheel in "Place du Commandant de la Motte Rouge". A little too blustery to take a spin.

This is the "Phare", lighthouse. What is interesting with this one is that it is aligned with the "Tour de la Lanterne" so that ships can navigate safely into port.

This door leads into the Phare. I have no idea why there is a star on this door, but I choose to think it is the Star of the North, guiding all sailors.

Inside the church there are replicas of boats. This is a mariner's home and many prayers have been whispered to see the sailors and passengers safely to their destination port.

Our brother-in-law Terry is on a journey of his own. We pray for him.

All that walking gave us an appetite. I had the Crêpe Grand Marnier.

Karl had the Crêpe Normande, which was filled with apples and had Calvados flamed on top.

***

"The future is not some place we are going, but one we are creating. The paths are not to be found, but made. And the activity of making them changes both the maker and their destination."

~ John Schaar

Picnic in Bressuire

2017-08-29T15:12:00.000-07:00

The Château de Bressuire is a ruined castle in the town of Bressuire. This is not the ruined part!

The site has been inhabited continuously since the Celtic epoch. The castle was built on the site of an oppidum (a large fortified Iron Age settlement) of the Gauls and was first documented in 1029, in a charter at Saint-Cyprien de Poitiers. It belonged to the Beaumont-Bressuire family until the start of the 16th century. (Beaumont! My home town!)

The castle is a fine example of medieval military architecture. In 1190, the castle consisted of an enceinte almost 700 metres around, with 38 towers circling the first fortress, itself defended by eight towers.

The visible remains date essentially from the end of the 12th and the start of the 13th century. The fortress included three enceintes (a French term denoting the "main defensive enclosure of a fortification"), of which the outermost has now disappeared. The castle was broken up during the first half of the 18th century.

In 1441, Jacques de Beaumont became Seigneur de Bressuire. He converted the castle into a beautiful residence. From this time date the large building closing off the courtyard, that has mullion windows, splendid granite chimneys in the private rooms and an elegant gallery, all intended to show the refinement of the owner. The castle subsequently belonged to a number of families but its maintenance was ignored. In 1876, the building partly collapsed. The Bernard family bought the castle the same year. In 1880, a neo-Gothic château was built in the castle court, set back in relation to the former building.

It has been listed since 1996 as a monument historique by the French Ministry of Culture. (Wikipedia)

The site invites many artists to practice their creativity. This little garden is whimsical and fun. It leads you to its centre with big pink footprints.

Is this the spider that frightened Miss Muffet away?

"Little Miss Muffet

Sat on a tuffet,

Eating her curds and whey;

Along came a spider

Who sat down beside her

And frightened Miss Muffet away."

An assortment of coloured pencils found throughout the garden.

A sharpener for those coloured pencils!

***

It's a very hot 35 degrees today, so we are seeking shade and keeping our activity levels low.

A very impromptu picnic, taking whatever we could find in the kitchen: olives, cherry tomatoes, baguette, melon, cookies, water and ginger-ale. It was light and tasty and hit the spot.

I made sure to bring my fan to keep cool. Isn't it beautiful? A gift from my sister Val who taught in Japan for a year.

Since we came to France to ameliorate our French, Karl is reading "Le Petit Prince" to me and can ask the meaning of words he doesn't understand. What a great activity!

***

Within the Château, there was an interesting exhibit of all the businesses that existed about 50 years ago in the town of Bressuire.

An old cash register because money is the basis of all business, is it not? The amounts are in francs and centimes.

Scissors from the tailor.

All the various adding machines and calculators.

A General Store.

Imported coffee from Mexico.

Vittel bottled water; different bottles used over the years.

The garden centre sold seeds, what we might call heirloom seeds today.

Local photographer. Old cameras and dated ways of framing photos. I love this style.

The pharmacy.

My doctor has a weigh scale that looks remarkably like this one...

Ledger books.

Pill press. Anyone know what the contraption in the upper left might be?

Chocolate for the "Chocolatier", the chocolate maker.

Women's fashion store with shoes and hats.

Looks like a phone operating system.

Radios held a place of importance in the home.

The hair stylist.

The jeweler.

Not sure if this store made toys or sold them, but this little convertible has pedals for a child to push the car along.

This is a delivery bike.

***

In a part of the grounds, there is a small garden that used to have all the herbs and vegetables from the medieval days, but now it is strictly for flowers.

But the flowers are planted according to the colour wheel.

***

"The grass is not, in fact, always greener on the other side of the fence. No, not at all.

Fences have nothing to do with it. The grass is greenest where it is watered.

When crossing over fences, carry water with you and tend the grass where ever you may be."

~ Robert Fulghum

Time Famine

2017-08-27T04:31:00.001-07:00

"Scientists agree that industrialized societies are experiencing a paradoxical "time famine" - the persistent feeling that we have too much to do, and not enough time to accomplish it - and that this interferes with our ability to savour immaterial experiences. We're doing everything faster, but we don't feel like we have more free time."

There is truth to this, since even as retired folks in Canada, we always seem to have a long to-do list and feel panicked that we won't get it all done on time. While in France, we decided to just take it easy and not plan a lot of "busy"ness in our days.

Today in Richelieu, our day was anything but busy.

A wonderful start having lunch at "L'Auberge Le Cardinal".

I love chickens and roosters and have a gorgeous set on my kitchen counter. This one is particularly handsome, made of metal.

This little setting would be so appropriate for Easter: colourful fabric rolls with half egg shells and pussy willows.

Santé!

For my entrée, I had goat cheese with thinly sliced pears wrapped in philo dough and baked. Served with a small green salad.

Karl had very thinly sliced melon with ham, and a green salad.

We both ordered steak in an onion gravy with the smoothest mashed potatoes ever eaten! There must have been as much butter and cream as potato! A stuffed baked tomato on the side.

For dessert, I had the Île flottante and Karl had the creamy white cheese with rhubarb compote.

Karl's finishing touch: a grand crème. It came with a tiny meringue.

Then it was off to the Parc Richelieu to spend a quiet afternoon out of the sun.

Even the information office was closed and locked. Everyone has decided to rest from the heat, perhaps take a sieste...

***

"Listen to the wind,

It talks.

Listen to the silence,

It speaks.

Listen to your heart,

It knows."

~ Native American Proverb

Pilgrimage to Saint-Généroux

2017-08-26T11:54:00.000-07:00

We started our day with a quick stop at the Thouars market to pick up a few essentials, like Mont St. Michel garlic. The vendor sells the garlic still attached to its very long and dry stalk so that you can braid a few together. Perhaps it is just a ploy to get more money since the garlic is sold by weight. No matter, it's a fun little purchase for very few centimes.

We also bought melons, tomatoes, and of course our wonderful strawberries which seem to be almost out of season...

"Déjeuner", which is lunch, is in order before we head out on our drive, all of 12 km. away! Since we're in Thouars, we of course headed to "Le Trait d'Union", our favourite spot in town. Vincent, the owner, now greets us warmly upon arrival and ensures he invites us to come again when we leave.

Started off with a tomato gazpacho which tasted a bit different than the garden gazpacho from a few weeks ago, but just as refreshing and delicious! Instead of garlic bread crumbs on top, there were small little pieces of soft mozzarella cheese floating in the soup, along with a drizzle of fine olive oil.

We enjoyed rabbit in a beautiful rich sauce, along with lightly fried potatoes and shredded zucchini and kale.

Karl and I both having the Menu du Jour usually means we eat the same meal, although it is possible to have a different entrée, main course or dessert. Karl and I just seem to like the same things. Dessert was a mocha cookie topped with chocolate mousse and topped again with whipped cream and chocolate drizzle. Somewhere on the table was a bottle of Perrier and a pichet of rosé wine.

Then we headed to Saint-Généroux. This small village is important since it was part of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route. My friends Leona and Gina walked part of this route just last year, from the southern part of France to Santiago in Spain. What an adventurous undertaking!

The church is one of the oldest in France. Built in the 9th century, it was a popular resting place for pilgrims.

In the half light, one can almost conjure an image of the pilgrims kneeling at the altar or resting against the base of the pillars.

A baptismal font made of stone.

Well worn stone floors.

Amazing that the pillars are still standing.

There are stones set aside where people are not allowed to walk, but can study, much like an archeological dig. Can you make out the Templar Cross carved in this rock?

Other precious words carved into the rock that have withstood the test of time.

The packhorse bridge in the centre of the village is where pilgrims would have journeyed. It is old cobblestone and difficult to walk on. A great place to twist an ankle if you're not careful!

In my mind's eye, I can see the files of pilgrims, dressed poorly, making their way on this holy journey. Santiago de Compostela is still so far away.

Visiting Saint-Généroux is our own pilgrimage of sorts.

***

The season is changing. Where there were once fields of beautiful yellow sunflowers swaying in the breeze as far as the eye could see, they have now shrivelled and bent their heads in exhaustion.

They faithfully followed the sun from dawn till dusk, absorbed all the nutrients from earth and sky, and have now reached the end of their journey. Their job is done.

They will yield the fruit of their efforts in a variety of ways.

Sunflower seeds are edible and can be eaten raw, cooked, roasted or dried. They are a popular, nutritious snack.
Traditionally, North American Indians ground the seeds to make flour for cakes and breads.
The petals are also edible; they can be cooked and eaten like artichokes.
Humans aren’t the only ones that find sunflowers tasty. The seed heads are also a source of food for birds and animals. Sunflower seeds are a major ingredient in commercial birdseed.
Sunflower leaves are used as feed for livestock.
Sunflower oil is a popular vegetable oil known for its light colour, mild flavour, low levels of saturated fats and ability to withstand high cooking temperatures.
The oil can also be added to soap, lubricants and candles.
Sunflower oil can help relieve skin conditions, hemorrhoids and ulcers.
Sunflower roots can remove radiation from soils and water. They were used to clean up the Chernobyl disaster.
The root of the plant is also used in traditional herbal medicine to treat snakebites and spider bites. The leaves can be made into tea to relieve fevers, lung ailments and diarrhea.
The flowers can be used to make an all natural dye.
The stalks are used to make paper and clothes.

Of course, they are one of the prettiest and sunniest summer flowers to grace your home!

***

"Life is too short to experience everything, but the human heart is big enough to resonate with everything that any other human heart has experienced."

~ Brother David Steindl-Rast

Saint Aignan

2017-08-25T15:22:00.000-07:00

"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward,

for there you have been, and there you long to return."

~ Leonardo da Vinci

On our way home from Touraine, we had hoped to stop and visit the "Zoo Parc de Beauval" in Saint Aignan because there is a baby Giant Panda that was born recently. The Parc was so crowded that we would have had to walk at least 1 km just to get to the entrance. With the heat over 30 degrees F, we decided to postpone our visit till September, when school resumes.

The town itself is delightful, with lots of medieval buildings, twisty narrow roads, and interesting boutiques.

One of the parking lots in the centre of town offered free parking, for as long as you wanted. Many places in other towns have an hour free parking before you get charged, and others have no free parking at all. But the biggest surprise was that they had these power towers to plug in your electric vehicle - for free!

If you want to recharge your car super fast, they have the facilities to do so at two parking stalls, albeit for a fee.

These special parking spots are identified just like handicapped parking. Don't you find this unexpected in such a medieval town?

How whimsical to have these white umbrellas suspended in mid air! They are in preparation for an upcoming festival.

Hey, we got to see the baby panda after all!

In the distance, the Collégiale dating from the XI and XII centuries, with the Crypte.

"La maison à pans de bois". Timber framed house.

We had a wonderful lunch at Le Bacchus, al fresco under parasols.

We shared a huge salad "jardinière" which had cold mushrooms stuffed with cheese. We always bake ours but the cold version is delicious!

Karl had duck again. I think he has started to quack and is growing webbed toes...

I had a second salad as my main course, with noodles, shrimp and Pollack or Surimi. Lots of herbs to really elevate the taste.

The final café cème with a cookie.

Then we were homeward bound, a 2-hour drive away.

***

"Traveler, there is no path.

Paths are made by walking."

~ Antonio Machado

Pure Poetry

2017-08-23T14:04:00.000-07:00

August 21, 1976. The future held so much promise!

Forty-one years later, we find ourselves in France, experiencing a perfect day.

We are in Amboise, and this custom built bike with a V-8 engine captured Karl's attention. Ah, those motorbikes... When we got married, there was a beer strike. It was customary at the time for the wedding couple to serve free beer at weddings, so we had to buy a whole lot of hard liquor to replace those kegs of beer. Karl sold his motorcycle to pay for the hard liquor and reminded me quite frequently about his sacrifice. On our 25th wedding anniversary, he finally got a brand new bike, a Honda VTX, to replace that bike he gave up so many years ago.

We toured the town, a town we know well. I like the wrought iron signage often found at various boutiques.

A beautiful lace boutique. We bought a little souvenir.

This is where Leonardo da Vinci was buried. There is a restaurant right next to the Château where we've eaten before, so we headed back there, even to the same table!

We both had a salmon appetizer with a light salad.

Followed by the duck confit.

Then for this amazing dessert: crêpes with Grand-Marnier, flamed.

Enjoying those last sips of rosé wine.

A perfect meal with all, or some of, our favourite foods!

After touring more of the town, it was time for Karl to stop for ice-cream. After all, it was 30 degrees F and he needed a refreshment!

His café ice-cream came with a meringue.

We drove to Nazelles-Négron, just across the bridge from Amboise, to go on a hot air balloon ride with Touraine Montgolfière. Can you think of a more romantic thing to do than to float above the Loire Valley, overlooking Renaissance Châteaux, in a vessel that was invented in France?

"The hot air balloon is the first successful human-carrying flight technology. The first untethered manned hot air balloon flight was performed by Jean-François Pilâtre de Rozier and François Laurent d'Arlandes on November 21, 1783, in Paris, France, in a balloon created by the Montgolfier brothers." (Wikipedia)

Karl, an aviator through and through, looking forward to our departure.

I am really excited as well!

Crossing the bridge leading to the Château d'Amboise, on our way to a field in Saint-Georges-sur-Cher.

There are different sized baskets, but we were in a large one with four passenger compartments and the middle space reserved for the pilot. We were 14 passengers.

The "panier" is taken off the trailer which was pulled by a 4X4.

Our pilot, Franck Cousin, was very conscientious to check everything. He has 23 years of experience flying balloons and airplanes, including Alpha, Jaguar and others, during his time with l'Armée de l'Air.

Franck is checking the propane burners that will be heating the air inside the balloon.

The balloon is then attached to the panier.

There were five balloons that left from the same field. These three were a little ahead of us. We thought we'd stand in front of them for a photo since it would not be possible to do so with ours.

They were inflated and off they went!

The 4th balloon was the same as ours, with the "Touraine Mongolfière" written in prominence.

It, too, was inflated and left before us. Notice that we are in a farmer's field with hay bales.

Our balloon getting air blown into it.

This is done with huge fans. Isn't the opening large? This crew member is well over 6' tall.

Once the balloon has been filled with air, the propane burners are fired up to heat the air. Hot air is thinner and therefore lighter than the air that it replaces, so that's how our balloon will float.

Those flames are hot!

When the pilot says it's time to get into the basket, we have no time to lose. All 14 of us must be inside within 30 seconds. Our positions have been assigned before hand and we know exactly where to stand. Those little square holes in the side are used as a ladder for us to scramble in.

And we're off! This is the shadow of our balloon, and we see all the support crew on the ground.

Up, up and away!

This is what we saw. Incredibly beautiful area of the Loire Valley, along the Cher River.

We flew over my favourite château, Chenonceau.

Sharpen your vision - there is a small white plane flying below us.

What an incredible bird's eye view! Karl has always said he was a bird in a previous life, and maybe he was.

The vineyards of the Loire. Great wine!

Ballooning is known for the exceptional quiet, except when the propane burners are fired. It's also very smooth, unless you hit vertical air drafts, which we didn't.

There is a lack of feeling of movement, as though we're standing still. No breeze whatsoever since we are following the wind current.

We flew for an hour, but the whole experience took about three.

We are about to land. The pilot asks us to take the brace position, with our knees together, slightly bent, and holding on to the handles.

We had a very smooth landing. The basket lay on its side for a brief moment then righted itself and came to a standstill.

Wow! That was such a wonderful experience!

The balloon is strapped tight at regular intervals, then loaded onto the wagon. All the passengers helped. (Well, except me. I took photos!)

The sun will be setting soon. Our pilot must be tired, and very hot. Those burners radiate a LOT of heat. They recommend we all wear hats.

Remember me buying boots last week? We were told that there was no way of knowing in which field we would land, and many of them have knee high weeds. I was glad to be protected from those thistles. These little boots will forever be known as my "blue balloon boots".

The panier is winched back onto the trailer.

Time for a glass of champagne to celebrate our accomplishment! Of course, they served Vouvray, a "pétillant" from the Loire Valley.

The certificates indicating that we have gone up in a "montgolfière" on this date.

I don't think we could have improved on this anniversary.

"The winds have welcomed you with softness,

The sun has greeted you with its warm hands,

You have flown so high and so well,

That God has joined you in laughter,

And set you back gently into

The loving arms of Mother Earth.

~ Anonymous.

Known as "The Balloonists Prayer", believed to have been adapted from an old Irish sailor's prayer.

***

L'Aérogare called a local restaurant and asked them to stay open a little longer than usual to accommodate some hungry balloonists. Pizzas and salads, wine and beer were fine with us!

***

"I have known today a magnificent intoxication.

I have learnt how it feels to be a bird.

I have flown. Yes, I have flown.

I am still astonished at it, still deeply moved.

~ Le Figaro, 1908

For further information on the Château de Chenonceau, the Château d'Amboise, or the Clos de Lucé, please refer to these links from my previous blogs.

http://france-encore.blogspot.fr/2010/05/chateau-de-chenonceau.html
http://france-encore.blogspot.fr/2010/06/amboise-june-15-part-1.html
http://france-encore.blogspot.fr/2010/06/chateau-du-clos-luce-leonardo-da-vinci.html

Haras de la Vendée

2017-08-20T12:17:00.000-07:00

Haras de la Vendée is a Stud Farm built in 1843 at the request of King Louis Philippe. At that time, most of the stud farms were former monastic buildings converted during the French Revolution. The Haras de la Vendée, however, was meant to be a stud farm from the very beginning.

The right side of this building is where the stallions are housed.

There are 21 National stud farms in France. This one was bought by the Conseil Général de la Vendée in 2006. It has now become the only departmental stud farm in France keeping National Stallions, developing cultural and touristic activities, and taking part in breeding associations. A school for show horses was also created here.

This middle building used to be where the Director was housed. Now we sit in the lobby and watch videos on various subjects regarding the Stud Farm.

This portion of the building houses the mares.

The stud farm was built during the industrial revolution and the aim was to be able to keep as many horses as possible. Hence, the linear architecture.

Our guide, Périne, giving us a 45 minute private tour. We must have arrived before the crowds!

The inside of the building where the mares are housed.

Horses' rations are adapted to their weight and work, from 2/3 to 2 gallons. They are fed with hay twice a day (11 pounds per horse). Horses drink between 11 and 14 gallons of water each day, and the volume can easily double in summer. The stalls are equipped with automatic drinking troughs.

The top window is where the hay is brought in and stored in the loft.

There are 30 full-time year-round staff, with an extra 10 during the summer months.

If I don't move... no one will notice that I've escaped my stall.

So gentle. Taking hay from a little girl's hand.

A wisteria pod definitely feels like this muzzle.

This horse was so funny, we thought he could talk. He kept pointing to the hay bale with his head, nodding vigorously and almost requesting in words that he wanted some! When we didn't respond, he stomped his hooves in a tantrum!

***

We took a little buggy ride throughout the grounds, using a very peaceful and shady lane. The driver (we can only see his arm here) knew Vancouver well. He had worked with Cavalia. He said there was a lot of French spoken with that group (not surprising since it comes from Montreal), but I didn't get the sense he had enjoyed Vancouver that much. Too big of a city and too much noise for someone used to this quiet environment.

***

A large centre displaying very old carriages used throughout the century.

***

We then entered the old forge where the tools used for shoeing horses are still where they were last placed. There must be a working forge elsewhere where the horses are currently being shod because this one is very much like a museum.

An anvil where the blacksmith pounds the hot iron into the shape he wants.

This horseshoe is for a front hoof because it has one elevated edge in the middle. (It's hard to see because it's in shadow, touching our guide's hand.) When there are two, at the "10 and 2 o'clock" positions, that shoe is for a rear hoof.

Various horseshoe sizes.

A horse's hoof is made of horn which continually grows, almost 1" per month. It is very fragile and can easily get damaged or broken if not protected by a horseshoe, which would make the horse lame and therefore unusable.

Where the shoe sits and where the nails are pounded in, that is all horn, like our fingernails. The only sensation the horse feels is in the middle of the hoof.

About every 7 weeks, the farrier takes off the former horseshoe and heats up a new one. Meanwhile, he cuts the excess horn. He then takes the horseshoe which is still hot and puts it under the horse's hoof to know exactly what shape is needed. Finally, he works it with a hammer on an anvil. Once it is done, he plunges it into cold water to harden it and nails it under the horse's hoof, from the bottom up. The blacksmith farrier cuts the ends of the nails which stick out of the top of the hoof and files them so that they cannot hurt the horse when it is moving, or snag anything. He then files the horn to make it smooth. Some horses get the full pedicure, with black polish applied!

.

Different sized nails, depending on the shoe and the size of the horse.

All the tools required to do the job.

This is not a welding mask, but it's used to protect the face from the very hot coal oven forge that can reach 1800 degrees F.

Real bones from a horse. Very interesting anatomy lesson.

For shoeing workhorses, the farrier uses what is called a "work". The leather shackles hold the horse's hooves, and the belt is put under its belly for support in case the horse feels tired being on three legs and needs a little rest. The farrier's hands are free and he can shoe the horse without having to carry its weight, some horses weighing 1900 lbs.

The English way of shoeing a horse is with one person, the farrier, holding the horse's foot between his thighs and working with both his hands.

The French way involves two people, one to hold the horse's foot, and the other to shoe it.

Shoeing four hooves takes about an hour and a half.

***

There is an insemination lab. We visited where the semen is collected in the breeding program although this was not the lab that is being used today. It was interesting to see the "fake mare" with an artificial vagina. It is just the right height but made of wood and padding. There are stairs on one side of this fake mare where the breeder can harvest the semen through piping. The semen is diluted in the lab and is either frozen, refrigerated or used fresh for a mare that is on the premises.

The main advantage of this technique is that it enables stallions to cover from 15 - 65 mares anywhere in the country and to carry on with their show or sport career.

***

This is the Baudet de Poitou, a breed of donkey originating in the Poitou region of France. It is one of the most distinctive donkey breeds and also among the rarest and least known.

It is instantly recognizable because of its shaggy coat, called a "cadanette". It hangs in long cords or shaggy hanks when ungroomed because the hair is longer and softer than that of other breeds of donkeys.

***

There are little demonstrations or information sessions throughout the day. This one was how to saddle a horse. The rider is adjusting her chaps which only go from boot to knee. The western-style chaps that cowboys wear look very different.

She uses a chair to get up on the horse because she does this many times a day and does not want to hurt the horse's spinal cord.

***

We attended two shows that demonstrated the horses performing in shows like Cavalia. The first show was how they are trained.

The horse on a lead.

How it takes a command without even being touched. The horse is never hurt and is trained through positive reinforcement.

The horse is never asked to perform a movement that is not in its nature.

The demonstration show ended with the horse stealing the trainer's hat.

***

The next session we attended was a presentation of the various horse breeds found on this stud farm. We were introduced to their characteristics and what the "stud book" demands when breeding.

We saw Criollo, Spanish or Portuguese; the Barb, developed on the Barbary Coast of North Africa; the Miniature Horse, which are NOT small ponies; Selle Français, France's most important sports horse; Normandy Cob, the Anglo-Norman horse breed developed from the Thoroughbreds and heavy horses from Normandy; Friesian, (also Frisian), a breed originating in the Netherlands; and the Shetland pony, originating in the Shetland Isles, northeast of mainland Scotland.

Not the same black horse as the one above. Look at the legs and the hairy ankles on the first.

***

The final show was a demonstration of well-trained horses that had gone through all the training that we saw in that first demonstration. This was seeing it in action, without so much explanation. It was thrilling to recognize the horse as following orders when at first he looked stubborn or doing things that appeared unexpected.

Ahhh...

THE END

***`

"There is a spirit that pervades everything, that is capable of powerful song and radiant movement, and that moves in and out of the mind.

The colours of this spirit are multitudinous, a glowing, pulsing rainbow."

~ Paula Gunn Allen

Château et Parc de Langeais

2017-08-19T13:37:00.003-07:00

Built starting in 1465 by the King of France, Louis XI, Langeais provides a perfect example of a late medieval castle, complete with parapet walk and drawbridge.

There are actors role playing various scenes, this one the raising and lowering of the drawbridge.

This is the view from the inside of the castle, where Karl was stationed.

The chimney breasts are finely sculpted.

The Château's interior is brought alive by the outstanding quality of its decoration and furnishings.

Each room has different tiling, based on original 15th century patterns.

Look! The shell symbolic of the pilgrimage on the St. James of Compostela Way.

This piece of furniture is particularly interesting. It has 7 tiers, and each compartment holds precious items that are made to impress visitors and demonstrate the great wealth of the owner. They can be separated for easier transportation.

The salons and bedrooms are decked with more than 30 tapestries. Notable among them: Les mille fleurs (the thousand flowers), 15th c. The flowers are so intricate that they appear to be painted rather than woven.

The beds, the chests with their elaborately worked locks, the chairs and sideboards, are all in Flamboyant Gothic style (15th c. to mid 16th c.).

The initials are A and K but look like M and K, don't you think? This must be made for Marguerite and Karl! No one told us this was our château!

In 1491, the Château was the site of the marriage between Charles VIII, the son of Louis XI, King of France, and the young Duchess Anne of Brittany - an event which paved the way for the independent Bretons' eventual union with France.

The highest ranking bishops in the land were in attendance.

As were the notaries to make it all legal. This was an important union politically.

Anne of Britanny

Charles VIII

The marriage is commemorated with a strikingly realistic "son et lumière" in which the Duchess is seen in a representation of the gold robe fabric, edged with 160 sable furs.

Some of the high chairs for babies, and an early "walker" with wheels.

The baby crib was kept close to the fireplace for warmth and close to the parents' bed. Note that the adult bed is set on a wooden platform to avoid the chill of the floor and the humidity.

Unfortunately, babies often died young. Paintings were commissioned to remember them.

There was a video playing in this room that described all the pieces of clothes a woman needed to get dressed. There were 23 pieces! I loved the metal belt that fit around the hips with tiny hooks that allowed the woman to hang all sorts of necessities, including her money purse. She had garters that tied above her knee in a bow, stockings, and "pantouffles", which we call slippers to this day. The head gear had three different parts: a netting to protect her hair from flying out, a cap to keep the dust out, and her hat which was often made of velvet.

The loom where weaving techniques are demonstrated

There is a "moquette" of the cathedral in Cologne, Germany. I'm not sure I understand the link, but this is made so well. What a time-consuming and accurate reproduction.

In the "Saints" room are to be found statues representing the Virgin Mary, Ste. Anne, the Holy Mother and Child, and other saints. This elaborate holder of holy relics has been painstakingly repaired with gold leaf and precious stones.

A knight in shining armour.

Being knighted.

Aurore, which is the dawn of day. You can see her pushing the night away.

The Lion King, or at least a king riding a lion...

In the dining room, this copper basin held fires to warm the room.

Look at the handles on this "portable table". One never knows when a picnic is in order!

More of those locks found throughout the château.

A weighty and significant door knocker.

Foulques Tower, oldest fortress in France. Foulques Nerra, the ferocious Comte d'Anjou, seized Langeais in 994. From there he attacked Tours, held by his rival the Comte de Blois. Within the walls erected by Foulques, a large tower served as his residence. Its lofty bulk still looms over the later château's courtyard.

Since 2008, you can access the windows of this old fortress and discover how it was built, thanks to the genuine reconstruction of the scaffolding as it was used in 994.

A tree house for the kids. Wow!

The bell in the Château.

***

The town of Langeais

This is the restaurant where we ate lunch outside, then returned for coffee inside in late afternoon.

When we stopped for lunch, this Italian gentleman was sitting next to us, rolling his own cigarettes. I asked if I could take his photo because he had an interesting face. He drove a very big and very powerful motorcycle.

This is the sink in the bathroom of the little coffee shop. (No, it is not a urinal.) I thought it looked so elegant and the rose and white is reminiscent of a royal pattern.

We had a cross between a tiramisu and a chocolate mousse, and it was delicious!

An antique doll was standing in the corner of the coffee shop. So beautiful! Made me want to be a little girl again since I always loved playing with dolls.

The "Halles" is where the open market is held.

A small town, very attractive, very clean.

Inside of the church.

"The angel is a dreamer" is the very appropriate name for this delightful boutique.

***

"The important thing is not to think much, but to love much;

and so do that which best stirs you to love."

~ Ste. Thérêse de Lisieux

Domesticated

2017-08-16T13:34:00.001-07:00

The male species of the common genus Homo Sapiens can be found everywhere in its Earth habitat. Most of them are still considered wild and quite untameable to the rigours of house work. Many will never become house trained.

The process of simply keeping wild animals in captivity does not mean the species as a whole has been domesticated, nor does it mean that a specific individual is domesticated. They're merely “tamed” and this is usually done by way of bribery with appealing food that brings on a Pavlovian salivary response. Heineken beer has been found to be particularly enticing.

It's crucial to distinguish between domestication and taming. A single wild animal can be tamed if it is captured at a young age, as in its early twenties, and raised with a lot of careful human nurturing. But this is strictly an acquired trait, and a single taming does not suddenly make the entire species domesticated. Too often, when household tasks are to be undertaken, the male species can be found camouflaged on the living room couch in a comatose state, or wielding a menacing remote control weapon. Some research indicates they can sometimes be found in packs, hiding in the garage huddled around rusty cars. Still others are found tethered to their computers with glazed eyes playing loud and annoying games of Tanks and Warships.

This particular specimen, currently found in the western territory of France but of Germanic origin and now making its home in the wild Canadian habitat, seems to have mastered several house duties such as vacuuming, drying dishes, ironing, hanging out the laundry and even folding said laundry with military precision. More study will be required to see if these traits continue into later life or are just a passing phase.

Domesticated traits are acquired and difficult to master and maintain. For the time being, this particular member of the human species is a rare and much sought-after example that is not available for purchase or exchange.

***

"It was my life - like all lives, mysterious and irrevocable and sacred.

So very close, so very present, so very belonging to me.

How wild it was, to let it be."

~ Cheryl Strayed