Recently Discovered - Galapagos Giant Tortoise Species Not Extinct

Chelonoidis elephantopus, a type of giant Galapagos tortoise that was thought to have become extinct over 150 years ago has been “found” in the genome of a similar species that currently lives in the Galapagos Islands.

First recorded in 1853 by Charles Darwin in his famous voyage of The Beagle, Chelonoidis elephantopus was never again seen by visitors or scientists in the Galapagos Islands.  This species was believed to have been wiped out by the mid 1800’s by pirates and whalers who used these animals as a valuable source of food on their ships due to their tolerance of extreme conditions.  A Galapagos tortoise can survive without food or water for up to a year, thus they were a highly prized food source by pirates and whalers who kept them alive on their ships without giving them any care.  Giant Galapagos tortoises can reach almost 6 ft (1.8m) in length and weigh almost 900 lbs (408 kg).

Chelonoidis elephantopus was originally from Floreana Island, the second southernmost island in the Galapagos archipelago and the most frequented by pirates and whalers in the 1800’s.  However, a study of the genome of over 1600 tortoises on Isabela Island (the largest island of the Galapagos Islands land formations and found 200 miles northwest of Floreana Island) revealed the presence of the DNA of Chelonoidis elephantopus on its very close relative, Chelonoidis becki.

The two species of Galapagos giant tortoises have shells of a different shape.  The shells of C. becki are domed-shaped, whereas the shells of C. elephantopus on Floreana Island were saddle-shaped.  Because in 2008 several members of C. becki were observed to have more saddle-shaped shells than dome-shaped, an investigation began to determine the cause of the difference in shell shapes.  A DNA examination of these saddle-shaped variations revealed that they had to have had at least one parent which was a member of C. elephantopus.

Watch the Giant Saddled Backed Tortoise video:

The final study showed that their genes were significantly different from those of other Galapagos tortoises on the Island and although the issue is complicated (and scientists estimate that at least 38 tortoises in their study could be purebred members of C. elephantopus), the conclusion is that the species is not extinct.  Thirty of the tortoises whose DNA contained DNA from C. elephantopus were found to be less than 15 years old. Given that the average lifespan of a Galapagos tortoise is 100 years, researchers say that there is a strong chance that their C. elephantopus parent is still alive on Isabela Island.

Additionally, since scientific findings suggest there may indeed be a few dozen descendants of this Galapagos Island breed still roaming the island, researchers are anxious to locate this group. The task now is to establish a realistic plan to discover their territory and catch these “hybrid tortoises” and incorporate them into the current breeding program or design a new one. This will involve an enormous effort as researchers look in plain sight among other tortoise herds and search for a population that has established its own secluded territory. This is an exciting opportunity for conservationist to learn more about C. elephantopus and possibly discover additional hybrid offspring.

To make matters more interesting, researchers are not sure how C. elephantopus tortoises ended up on Isabela Island, almost 200 miles away from Floreana. As opposed to sea turtles in the Galapagos Islands area, Galapagos tortoises are not good swimmers. Some scientists have posited that these tortoises originally arrived via the Humboldt Current from mainland South America. Based on this premise, there is the possibility that the population or even a single pregnant female “migrated” to Isabela Island as a passive passenger via prevailing currents. The generally accepted best guess is that pirates and whalers hauled them from one island to the other, or that they threw some overboard when passing close to Isabela Island.

A detailed recount of these findings is published in the journal Current Biology. http://www.cell.com/current-biology/

Additional resources:
http://news.yahoo.com/extinct-galapagos-tortoise-reappears-173106567.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galapagos_Giant_Tortoise
http://www.worldwildlife.org/what/wherewework/galapagos/WWFBinaryitem7725.pdf

Earlier this month, Ecuador’s President Rafael Correa announced the end of government fuel subsidies for local airlines. The following fuel surcharges have been announced for Galapagos Flights starting January 1, 2012 (subject to change):

For flights with AeroGal Airlines the supplement will be $100 per person ($50 one-way). For TAME Airlines, there is a $120 per person ($60 one-way) surcharge coming/going from Guayaquil to the Galapagos and a $140 per person ($70 one-way) for flights coming/going to Quito. This fuel surcharge will be applied even to tickets that have already been paid for and/or issued when traveling on January 1 or thereafter (and will also apply to those returning from the Islands after January 1st).

For those whose tickets have already been issued please plan to pay this fee upon checking-in to your Galapagos flight. It is recommended that you pay this fee in cash to avoid any delays or issues at the ticketing counter.

Stand Up Paddling SUP on the Blackfoot River, MT

I first tried Stand Up Paddleboarding, or SUP, in February of this year when I paddled down the Shiripuno River to the Huaorani Ecolodge in Ecuador’s Amazon Basin, and then on a Galapagos Stand Up Paddle Multisport Adventure.  SUP’ing was a great way to experience the Galapagos, and it added one more activity to an already full multisport itinerary, making the Galapagos Stand Up Paddle Multisport Adventure the most active and adventurous trip in the Galapagos Islands.

Since that trip I’ve been exploring SUP’ing here in Montana, and I’m pleased to say that even though we are far from the ocean this sport is awesome here as well. We are surrounded by beautiful lakes and rivers here in central Montana, and SUP’ing is the perfect way to explore our local waterways.

Before I tried SUP, I have to admit, I was a skeptic. It seemed like a manufactured sport, something created just to sell more gear, or just for surfers. It seemed silly, and it also looked like it was too hard to be practical for the average person. Then I tried it. Turns out I was wrong, and SUP is a great activity that almost anyone can do. It is getting lots of press because it is fun, and it is a very practical way to get out on the water.

Stand Up Paddleboarding is an activity that can be enjoyed anywhere there is water, whether on the ocean, in lakes, calm rivers, or even in whitewater rivers.  It can be great exercise, and I’ve really come to prefer it to canoeing or kayaking on lakes and mellow rivers. On the SUP you stand up and can see your surroundings, and down into the water, better than from a canoe or kayak.  The SUP is more comfortable to paddle, and the paddle doesn’t drip water on you with every stroke like in a kayak. There is a sense of freedom on a SUP that is hard to get in other watercraft.

My only complaint about SUP is that every time I take my board out so many people want to try it I don’t get much time on it! Everyone who has tried it loves it, and I can see why it is the fastest growing watersport in the world. It can be whatever you want it to be — surfing in the ocean, flat water racing, running rapids, working out, doing yoga, distance crusing, or just paddling around on a lake or river enjoying the view.  Bottom line is that it is fun! So far my 4 year old son and my 78 year old mother have both tried it, and both like it!

This past weekend we took the family on the Blackfoot River near Missoula, MT, in our raft. We also took our NRS Big Earl inflatable SUP, and my wife and I traded off between the SUP and the raft.  Our 4 year old rode on the SUP between the larger rapids.  What a great way to get on a beautiful river, making for an awesome day! The water was low and we didn’t want to fall off the SUP onto rocks, so we knelt on the board in the bigger rapids, but in the smaller or deeper rapids, and in the flats between the rapids, we stood up and enjoyed the amazing scenery from the SUP.

I’m  a convert. SUP is going to stay. Detour is looking at all sorts of new SUP trips and destinations in South America for 2012. Stay tuned for these cool new adventures!

SUP Stand Up Paddling the Blackfoot River, MT

I’ve been back in Montana for a month now, trying to figure out a new routine in a place I’m grateful to call home for its beauty, the chance to ride or hike for hours from my back door, and a great community of people that extends across an entire state. More importantly, I’m trying to integrate the lessons I learned about the value of living simply, focusing on the moment at hand, and the importance of new (and occasionally scary) experiences during my seven months in Peru. Clearly the most beneficial lesson I learned during my time in Peru wasn’t necessarily about any one place, it was about the value of travel and all it contributes to a life.
Traveling to new places, especially those outside a set comfort zone, is a perfect rapid fire learning event. From the moment the pressurized and polished jet lands on a runway in a place far, far from home in every sense of the word you’re jumping into new geography, new cultures, new language, and new perspectives with both feet. Hopefully, by the time you arrive you’ve managed to hit the hold button on work and other daily distractions so you can fully enjoy how ever long you have to be so far from the familiar. I’ll readily admit: there was definitely an adjustment period learning to live without all the amenities and conveniences of life in the United States when I first arrived in Peru. While you can certainly be guaranteed a hotel that offers the best in the majority of cities you’ll visit during your trip, standards are certainly different when it comes to restroom comfort in most public places…and it might take a while to get used to the relative chaos of Latin American traffic patterns. It also might take a while to get used to the herds of sheep and llamas grazing only a mile or so from the city center, or the breathtakingly beautiful peaks that are visible when the clouds part.
Another lesson I learned when I made an on the spot decision to buy my plane ticket was there is no better time than now. No, really – right now. It would be hard to deny that it can be difficult to find the time and money to make travel happen. It would be harder to deny the pace of the world changing is accelerating. Every day globalization and technology make it easier for us to be in touch with people in far flung corners of the world – it also makes it possible for new generations of ancient cultures to let go of the traditions that have defined their way of life for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. And then there’s the simple fact that ecosystems and landscapes are changing. I’m not saying to make vacation plans on ‘doom and gloom’ either; I’m just saying that if you want to see glaciers on mountain peaks a stone’s throw from the equator, you might want to book your trip to the Sacred Valley or the Cordillera Blanca sooner than later.
And, as I try to figure out my next steps career-wise and life-wise I need to remember the important lesson that more and more people seem to be catching on to all the time: regardless of how much I have in the bank, it’s not new possessions that will bring happiness, it’s the next new place I’ve never seen before, the next new mountain range waiting to be skiied or climbed, it’s the memories and the lessons that can’t be rivaled by any experience other than travel. Check out this NY Times article on consumer spending that does a great job of summarizing what’s become obvious to me: spend your money where your heart wants to be, and you’ll actually get some meaningful experiences in return

After the soul shaking descent from San Antonio pass, a frigid night sleeping in a cow pasture, and a several hour lost backpack search, the rest of the trek was relatively easy. But, what really comes into focus is the simple fact that you don’t really want it to be easy; you’re in the most powerful looking landscape imaginable, having once-in-a-lifetime experiences on a daily basis, and it’s only fitting that you should be challenged. And so you will be. However, if you choose to go with a reputable guide through the Casa de Guias (“house of guides”)in Huaraz, you will be not face the sort of “where do you think the real trail is” moments that became increasingly frequent after we took a turn off the main circuit on day 6.
I really can’t recommend the Huayahuash Circuit enough in terms of being exposed to the full force of Peru’s beauty. Over 10 days you will almost always have a peak in excess of 18,000ft in your view, with blue ice glacier lurching forward, and magnificent waterfalls pounding down off of that. You will definitely be physically challenged by the climbs and altitude, but never to the point that you question whether it’s worth it; the inspiration of the surrounding landscape is enough to confirm that it is. You’ll also meet locals in the small villages you’ll come across that are incredibly kind – although they will almost certainly ask for some kind of user fee, even when it’s unclear exactly what services you’re receiving in exchange.
Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca are several hours from Cusco and the surrounding attractions (i.e. Machu Picchu) that bring legions of visitors to Peru each year – which clearly has its ups and downs. The downside is that it may not be possible to get over to these amazing mountains and take in the centuries-old Inca sites that have become renowned worldwide for their mysticism and endurance. The upside is that you will experience parts of Peru far removed from the tourist-centric restaurants, souvenir shops and persistent vendors. If you have enough time to make it to the Cordillera Blanca during your stay in Peru there are several shorter treks, including the popular Santa Cruz trek, that are equally beautiful and easier to access. If you don’t have enough time in one trip – well, you’ll just have to make a choice this time…and then start planning your return trip for the next go ‘round. The more time I spent in Peru the more certain I became that there more secret stashes of beauty and adventure than can be experienced in a lifetime, never mind one visit.

As of July 15th, the Peruvian government has started enforcing new rules for those wanting to climb Huayna Picchu (the big sugar loaf mountain behind Machu Picchu).

In addition to a limited number of permits available, you must now purchase your permits ahead of time. These permits can only be purchased through the government website www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in the Cusco office of the Direction Regional (which can be done by notifying your tour provider ahead of time). See new rules in blue below:

1: Entrance times are:
Group 1 (G1): 0700 – 0800
Group 2 (G2): 1000 – 1100

2: The  max capacity per group is 200 people

3:  Permits to climb Huayna Picchu can only  be made through www.machupicchu.gob.pe or in the Cusco office of the Direction Regional of Cusco. They cannot be purchased on arrival in Machu Picchu nor in Aguas Calientes. Once sold out, that’s it. You can find availability at the website above.

4: The prices for entrances to Huayna Picchu are different to the standard entrance tickets to Machu Picchu whose price remains the same. It is not possible to swap standard entrance tickets to include Huayna Picchu.

5: Prices  for Machu Picchu – Huayna Picchu – Moon Temple which come into effect as of 15th July (includes entrance to Machu Picchu) are Adults S/150. Students with Valid ISIC cards only S/75. Without entrance fee to Machu Picchu the climb is an additional $10.00 per person.

There are still great non-permitted hikes to do in and around Machu Picchu. Climb Machu Picchu Mountain for a truly impressive view of Machup Picchu, as he condors see it. Hike back along the Inca Trail to the Sun Gate (where those hiking the Inca Trail get their first look at Machu Picchu). Or, walk out to the Inca Bridge for even more amazing views.

No more last minute decisions to wake up early and beat the rush. If you plan to climb Huayna Picchu best to book early as permits are selling quickly.

One really useful tip I can give you if you plan on doing any solo trekking in the Peruvian Andes is if anyone tells you that the trail you’ll be taking isn’t necessarily the most obvious or well-traveled path *STOP* and realize that means: you are going where nobody else wants to, and there’s a reason. This was the real life lesson of Day 6 on the Huayahuash Circuit…that, and ‘don’t get cocky just because things are going smooth so far’.
After a long soak in the hot springs on day 5 we were feeling well rested and relaxed to take on a day of trail that included crossing two 16,500ft mountain passes and a descent down the back of San Antonio mountain that was supposed to be, ahem, a ‘little off the beaten path….and a little scary’. The day started off nicely enough – brilliant sunshine reflecting off the 20,000ft glacial peaks surrounding us made it hard to even worry about the climbs ahead. Early in the day we followed a young Russian solo trekker who made the loose, steep trail seem like a stroll through a meadow and it seemed like once again we would be following guided groups, needing our fading map only for back up. In retrospect: oops.
The first climb was relatively easy, or at least relatively straight forward. After having to back track off a few cow grazing trails we mistook for our route we had a gradual climb to our first pass and basked in the sun for a few minutes, enjoying the stunning beauty that had somehow become almost expected. We didn’t stay at the pass long, knowing we had another big climb followed by a bigger descent waiting for us before we would be done for the day (understatement).
The climb to the second 16,500 ft pass was not so gradual and unfortunately was a straight shot up that was entirely visible from the approach. It was one of those climbs that somehow seems to lengthen as you plod along, the crest somehow moving away from you each time you lift your head to size it up.
When we reached the top I was exhausted, but I was also looking at the most amazing collection of peaks and glacial lakes I’ve ever seen; it was surreal. The peaks across from the pass seemed to fold in on each other and turquoise lakes thousands of feet above the valley floor collected on the crevasses. We sat at the summit of our climb along with an Israeli group and their guide for what seemed like a good long while taking it all in. When the group was about to descend back the way we had just climbed into the valley we wished them farewell…which seemed to take their guide by surprise. When we told him we were planning on descending the opposite side of the pass – a route that was essentially an uninterrupted loose scree pitch – he said a few things in Spanish we didn’t quite understand ( I can now assume they meant “what?! Why?! That’s certain death…”) before showing us the route with a few S-curve hand gestures and some cautionary words about going slow and making sure we knew where we were going. Seemed like no problem – we just had to take it easy on the first scree pitch and then hug the ravine on the left side. And it probably would have been no problem if we didn’t instead decide to follow a set of footprints leading off to the right, thinking that must be the better option. In retrospect: oops. Big oops.
Instead of getting easier to navigate the scree slope only got steeper and looser and those footprints had, of course, long disappeared. Being pulled down by the weight of our packs was no longer an inconvenience but a danger, so we devised a plan where my trekking partner would go ahead to find a passable route while I hefted the backpacks down one at a time. As we climbed further down under the sinking sun the drops became larger, and the route less certain. It seemed like no matter what direction we chose there was a good possibility of being cliffed out. Increasingly there seemed to be a good possibility of having zero luck finding a way off the mountain that night and having to spend a frigid night clinging to tufts of dried out grass on the rocky slope for safety. Not great. At one of the larger drops I realized it would be impossible for me to negotiate the down climb with two packs, so I tossed them down to my partner below. He snagged the strap on the first pack, but the second bounced past him and began a run away train trajectory of terminal velocity down the mountain and into a deep ravine. Watching that pack accelerate at warp speed down the steep slope that we would have to get down didn’t necessarily quell my fears or inspire confidence.
I’ll make this short: we barely made it off the mountain before darkness settled in earnest, but without that second pack. Fortunately, we were alive and uninjured. Unfortunately, that pack had our tent, Alex’s sleeping bag, our cook stove, and most of our food. With post trauma adrenaline racing through our systems we prepared to share one sleeping bag for a very long, very cold night of sleeping out in a cow pasture…thinking it may have been a better idea to follow that group back into the valley after all. In the morning I was awoken by the farmer who owned the land, and he kindly showed me that our actual path would have been to stay left the whole time, avoiding all the cliffs and our ‘adventure’. To sum it up: hire a professional guide for this trip, let the mules carry your gear up the long passes and down the loose descents, and avoid this type of situation. Fortunately, several hours of searching a very steep ravine did produce the pack that next morning – but consequences could easily have been far worse. Turns out, Peru’s landscape is wildly beautiful, and does an amazing job of keeping you humble.

In retrospect, days 3-5 could be called the ‘smooth sailing’ section of the Huayahuash Circuit trek. Not to say the trekking itself is especially easy- there are still plenty of ups and downs at high altitudes- but the trail is well-defined and (although never marked…ever) easy to follow. To firm up our confidence that our map was functional and our novice navigational skills in check, we would meet up with larger, guided groups each evening at camp. And we would have enough day light left in the equatorial days (sun up at 7, down at 6) to envy their cozy looking dining tents and the smell of their guide prepared meals waiting for them while we wrestled with a tangled tent and rain fly.
The ease of the trodden trail let my eyes and mind wander far and wide over the incredible sweeping views of the sky high peaks and abruptly carved glacial valleys, and I found an easy rhythm to hike for hours. Each day started cold and frosty while we made the standard breakfast of coffee and porridge, and instantly warmed to t-shirt weather when the sun finally made it over the last peak standing between us and its fiery rays. When camp was packed and our backpacks loaded on we would begin the steady walk that each day defied the last in the scope of the beauty we were seeing. On day 3 our trail alongside a turquoise glacial lake perfectly reflecting the peaks on the horizon took us to a crew of farmers digging potatoes from their freshly tilled soil. Inspired by a complete lack of enthusiasm for the giant bag of white rice (and if you spend more than a month or so in Peru you will also share a lack of enthusiasm for the ubiquitous white rice), we bought a kilo of the fresh red spuds for 2 soles. That trailside booty made 3 fantastic meals of gourmet camp cooking hodge podgery , and it was a nice reminder that we were hiking in a place where families could still subsist on their own labor – even when the landscape seemed so wild and harsh. Each day ended also roughly ended in the cold – as soon as the sun dipped behind the peaks the temperature noticeably dropped until we were wrapped in our sleeping bags trying to make out the few constellations we could recognize before surrendering to the relative warmth of the tent.
Day 5 wins hands down for providing the lush life experience. Our trail that day was an easy peasy 5 hours of walking on relatively flat terrain and lead to a campsite right next to a hot spring. Yes, a hot spring in the midst of some of the most amazing glacial peak scenery imaginable…and there’s even a smaller pool where you’re allowed to soap up and wash 5 days of trail grime off while your aching muscles unfurl. I can guarantee you that if you make this trek you will be absolutely lost on what you could otherwise be doing at that moment that could even rival the beauty of sitting in that hot water feeling so free and grateful. I can also guarantee that you will have a harder time than you imagine getting out of those hot pools after the temperature makes its nightly plunge. Remember to bring some warm clothes to bundle up in (and save that precious heat) for the walk back to your tent.
Yes, the good life was easy to come by on these days – Peru’s wild beauty had seemingly almost transformed into a backpacker’s resort and we were temporarily hoodwinked into thinking this would be a 10 day leisure cruise of a trek. And we were about to be humbled.

The morning of our departure for 10 days on the Huayahuash Circuit trail we woke up at the inhuman hour of 4AM to catch the 5AM bus out of Huaraz to Chiquian. It was rough, but there’s always something exciting about being up that early for an adventure, especially an adventure that would be so completely new to me. As we hefted on our fully loaded packs I got a clear idea of the challenge it would be to haul our stuff over mountain passes instead of hiring a mule team to carry it for us. I reassured myself by repeating the mantra “it’s only because it’s so early…” Right?
The bus ride was mostly in the dark so I missed out on some of the panoramic views of the Cordilleras Blanca and Negra (beautiful peaks, but without the enormous snow caps that make the Blanca so impressive), but was completely enthralled as soon as the first glimpses of the enormous big mountains came into view. These mountains are so unlike any others I’ve seen before; jagged towering peaks that look like each one was torn independently from the earth. My gratitude for being able to experience them replaced any left over exhaustion from the early start.
Our first stop was the village of Chiquian, a surprisingly bustling place with shop-lined streets and a large local market where you can buy any last minute provisions you might need. Unsure of when the next bus to the much smaller village of Llamac would be leaving we had to forego exploring what seems like a pretty cool little town. The Llamac bus was scheduled to leave at 8:30AM – giving us a 20 minute wait time. Of course, you can’t really expect 100% accuracy on departure time even 50% of the time in Peru so we ended up killing an extra hour in front of the bus station, making wagers on what time the bus would actually arrive.
An extra hour plus one flat tire later we were in Llamac, the self-proclaimed “Gateway to Huayahuash”, and got our first taste of the hodge podge fee system that has baffled many the traveler on the Huayahuash Circuit. Before the bus even gets to the town center a local fee collector boards the bus and charges any tourist 15 soles for the privilege of passing through the village. All said and done at the end of the 10 days we had paid something like 165 soles each of random fees for passing through various parts of the trail and through the occasional village. Be prepared for this and have small denominations of Peruvian soles with you – and be prepared for the fact that it seems completely random. Fee collectors literally seem to appear out of nowhere at times and the fee is almost never the same from place to place, but you should at least receive a semi-official looking ticket in return.
So, now all that was left was to begin the trail…and we began at mid-day with a steady climb of 3,000 or so feet that lasted at least a few hours. Yep, it’s a great way to stretch the legs after a long bus ride. Those first hours are challenging, but quickly become well worth it as you crest the ridge and get your first sweeping views of the glaciated mountains and turquoise glacial lakes on the horizon. For the next few hours you hike directly towards three sentinel peaks behind the lake, and they seem to change completely every time the trail curves slightly. I barely put my camera away for hours.
That night we watched an alpenglow sunset on the mountains as we set up our tent, and experienced the first rapid temperature drop that would clearly define the moments after sunset for the rest of the trip. It was hard to sleep that night surrounded by so much unknown beauty, knowing there was so much waiting for me in the next 9 days.

As almost every one of my posts has mentioned, repeatedly, Peru’s diversity of ecosystems and landscapes is beyond anything I ever imagined when planning my trip and was a constant source of amazement during my time there. To top off seven months of amazing experiences I spent the majority of my last two weeks in Peru checking out the mountaineer’s destination, Huaraz, and trekking the 10 day Huayahuash Circuit in the Cordillera Huayahuash.
Huaraz is the jumping off point for endless technical mountaineering and non-technical, but still challenging, trekking trips in Peru’s largest mountain range, the Cordillera Blanca, and the equally impressive nearby Cordillera Huayahuash. I was determined to get there from the first time I looked at a map of Peru and saw the long necklace of peaks that rival the Himalaya in altitude, located only a few hundred miles from the equator. Towers in the tropics. So, as June approached and work ended I booked a flight to Lima from Cusco (I couldn’t stomach the idea of a 21 hour bus ride that winds through the Andes on a route rumored to give the most seasoned traveler motion sickness). From there it’s a 7-8 hour bus ride to Huaraz with regularly scheduled departures on several bus lines. I took MovilTours for 50 soles and got a clean bus with a bathroom, reclineable seats and no discernible ‘bus falling apart’ noises: good enough! If I had paid a little more for the Cruz del Sur bus I would have had fully reclineable seats and wi-fi…for a longer trip I would definitely recommend going this route.
The route to Huaraz from Lima follows Peru’s almost moonscape desert and coastline, a strange mix of aquamarine waters and beachside snack shacks and miles of untouched dunes and black volcanic rock. In June a thick fog usually hugs the coast so I felt lucky to have views of the beaches I’ll have to visit next time around. A few hours into the ride we turned away from the ocean and began climbing into the mountains, and spent the remainder of the ride gaining altitude and gorgeous sunset views on surrounding rock faces.
We pulled into a dark Huaraz around 9PM, and I was surprised by how big of a town it is. Given its mountainous location I suppose I was imagining an alpine village of sorts; tall pines and small cottages. Nope; Huaraz is full of hustle and bustle and the streets are lined with concrete buildings built almost entirely after a massive earthquake leveled much of the town in 1970. So, with that in mind, be a little forgiving when evaluating Huaraz’s architectural aesthetic…she’s no beauty queen, but she’s got heart. From the bus station I took one of the readily available taxis to Jo’s Place, a hostel run by a husband and wife team (he’s from the UK, she’s from Huaraz) that has done a great job of attracting mountain enthusiasts from all over the world. Immediately upon check-in I could see that I would have no trouble meeting fellow travelers who could recommend good trekking options and/or suggest guides and gear companies – there were several people in the courtyard packing up for their adventures in the peaks and gear covering every free inch of space. I felt right at home, and stoked for an adventure.
Over coffee in the commons area kitchen the next morning I met a guy from Scotland who was also looking to do the 10 day Huayahuash Circuit; a well-known trail in the Cordillera Huayahuash that promised to give glimpses of just how wild, dynamic, and expansive this range is. And, as a bonus, he had already been in Huaraz for some time making good contacts with local guides and mountain enthusiasts we could get reliable information on doing a self-supported backpacking trip from. So, we decided to go for it and set out to get the maps, gear, and 10 days worth of food we would need to complete this mission…oh, and the ticket for the 5AM bus out of Huaraz to ultimately arrive in the (very) small mountain village of Llamac. Love those pre-sunset departure times!
We hit up the local market and bought the essentials: dehydrated soup mixes, quinoa, rice, salami, porridge, and of course instant coffee within an hour. As any backcountry roamer will tell you, trying to decide on several days of provisions for a wilderness trip can be stressful in the super market. At least in a colorful local market of stalls full of overflowing provisions it’s more of a ‘cultural experience’, and you can get everything you could possibly want in the quantity you want. I really can’t emphasize enough how nice that is when every ounce you pack will be hefted up over mountain passes that exceed in 16,000 feet.
Then, on to the gear and map store! If we were looking for a guided trip (which I would suggest…and I will clarify in subsequent posts) we could have headed over to the Casa de Guias (house of guides) to pick from a list of internationally certified trip leaders; a very helpful resource for last minute trips.
We photocopied a 1:45,000 topo map, rented a tent and cook stove and got some route finding advice from a French ex-pat now running a gear rental shop off the Plaza de Armas. We were told the route we were taking would be relatively straightforward…though some sections would be ‘off the beaten path’. Please note: if somebody tells you that you will be going off the beaten path in the mountains of Peru, be prepared for something more along the lines of ’so, is there really supposed to be a path here…?”. But, more on that later.
So, within 24 hours of arriving in Huaraz I had a trekking partner, all the gear and food I would need, and a determined route. Needless to say, I was impressed by the ease of showing up in a new place and finding adventure. If you’ll be traveling in Peru and really want to check out the high peaks I would definitely suggest making your way here for the endless trekking and mountaineering options and great opportunities to meet other people interested in the same type of adventures.