Gemstones Inc.

What Makes Women Want Diamond Rings ?

2009-01-07T23:33:00.000-08:00

A woman’s eternal desire to feel special, gives rise to her desire for diamond rings. It is indeed strange, isn’t it? How women throughout the globe, irrespective of their nationalities, religions, traditions, family and educational backgrounds, occupations and temperaments, crave for diamond rings? And, how strangely similar their smiles and expressions become when they have a diamond ring slid around their finger!

It is an age-old belief and pattern of thinking firmly entrenched in a woman’s mind that a diamond ring is special. Since childhood she has seen a diamond ring around her mother’s finger. She had loved to play with it. She has grown up listening to the story of how her father proposed to her mother and what that diamond ring meant. Thus are sown the first seeds of desire in the sub-conscious mind of a woman. Then she gradually sees the other engagements and weddings that happen around her as she grows up. Though she understands that an engagement ring need not necessarily be a diamond ring, and engagement only requires true love and commitment, she also notices the high value that the world tends to put on a man who gives a diamond ring to her fiancée. The man’s love for his lady seems to get proclaimed loudly with the glitter of the diamond. And, thus, like a woman’s eternal wish of making the world jealous with her choice of a fiancée or husband, increases her secret desire for a diamond ring.

This is strongly reinforced by romantic novels, movies, albums, greeting cards, posters etc., where a diamond ring is projected as the only emblem of intense love and adoration. The television commercials and other forms of advertisements created by the different diamond companies also attempt consciously to contribute to this belief and desire.

History tells that diamond rings started holding a special value back in the Roman Age. During those times, a man was required to barter for his bride. The idea was to offer the engagement as a security for his commitment to marry. If, later, the man failed on his betrothal, the engagement ring was kept by, the bride, as her financial security. Thus rose the need of offering diamond engagement rings as they had high financial value and their sale would provide good financial security to the scorned bride. Thus the concept, that diamond rings are the most special of all rings, originated from a cause that was only financial and far from anything emotional or romantic.

In the medieval age though, diamond rings began to have a romantic connotation, when the Italians associated diamonds with the flames of love.

The most modern reason happens to be that diamond is the hardest gemstone. This property and the fact that it can have the most versatile setting increases the worth of a diamond ring in the minds of today’s women. The traditional value of it, for being recognized as a symbol of pure and true emotions, also refuses to go from their minds.

If women started to free themselves from their weaknesses towards things like diamond rings, flowers, soft toys and chocolates, women will not be women any more. So, it is better to leave them as they are and pamper them as and when the hour comes.

[source]

Meet the Press

2009-01-07T10:49:00.000-08:00

A reporter’s request for an interview provides an opportunity to put your store in the spotlight-but you need to be prepared.

Even if you’re right at home talking to a customer over the counter, you may freeze up or start babbling the moment someone says “press.” But a press interview is an opportunity to put your company in the public eye, says Caroline Stanley, president and chief executive officer of Red Jewel Inc, Redondo Beach, Calif, a marketing and communications company specializing in the jewellery industry. “It reinforces the image of you as an expert in your field.” An interview does not mean free advertising. “The press is looking for a story,” says Ellen Fruchtman, president of Fruchtman Marketing, in Toledo, Ohio. Writers want something newsworthy to write about or interesting information for their readers. “Don’t make [the interview] sound like a commercial,” says Daylle Deanna Schwartz, author of Straight Talk With Gay Guys. “The people who get the most good press are those who focus on giving quality suggestions or making interesting statements.”

Be sure you can discuss the subject intelligently, says Stanley. “If you’re not comfortable with the topic, or don’t know enough about it, it’s best to say no.” Suggest topics you feel comfortable with and offer to help at another time, she says. You can also send a press kit. If you decline an interview, do it graciously. “No comment,” says Fruchtman, “is the worst thing you can say.” She recommends doing the interview, if at all possible. “Turning [the press] down looks like you’re not educated [on the topic] or you’re guilty of something.” This doesn’t mean you have to go into an interview cold. “The story has a slant and a focus,” says Tampa, Fla., freelance writer Stephen Morrill. “Ask what those are.” Some writers will e-mail a list of questions or topics they plan to cover so you can prepare. Ask about length, recommends Tarrytown, N.Y., freelance writer Caitlin Kelly, author of Blown Away: American Women and Guns. “Even knowing it’s a 500 word brief and not a 5,000-word opus can help you decide the most important thing to focus on in an interview.”

“A lot of times you can ask for an hour or a day so you have time to gather and organize your thoughts,” says Stanley, though this might not be possible if the writer is on deadline. There’s no reason to be nervous about talking to the press, says Morrill. “A reporter is usually not out to get you.” At the same time, you should not see your interview as a road to stardom. “[Do] not be flattered by a reporter’s request for an interview,” warns Alice Shane, adjunct professor of journalism at New York University. “This can lead to ego inflation, which can generate foolish, self-serving comments you might regret.” When talking to the press, don’t say “anything you don’t want to see in print,” says Stanley. “You should be willing to see it in print the next day and not be embarrassed by it—or wrong.” “When speaking with a reporter, everything you say can be quoted and printed—so be careful,” says Doug Rossi, editorial director of Rossi & Co., in New York, and a former newspaper editor. Unless you’ve agreed at the beginning to be quoted as an unnamed source, avoid saying anything negative. “People won’t trust you with juicy information if they think it will appear in print.” Conducting yourself in an interview with the press is not unlike a job interview—or meeting your prospective in-laws for the first time. Think about the image you want to maintain, says Schwartz. Don’t use turns of phrase, slang, or other language you don’t want attributed to you.

“Remember that you are the expert in this field, and your job is to help the interviewer convey accurate information,” says Joan Price, author of Better Than I EverExpected: Straight Talk About Sex After Sixty. That includes the basics: Give the writer your full title, the correct spelling of your name, any special spellings of the company name, and the Web site address. Be sure she has contact information—phone number or e-mail address—in case of later questions. “Be as specific as possible with numbers,” says Morrill. “If you don’t know the specific answer to a question, go get it, or have someone get it, or promise to have that information phoned or e-mailed by the close of business.” Be quotable. The writer wants to make the article entertaining as well as informative for the reader. But don’t entertain at the expense of accuracy and information. If you’re not clever or funny, be clear and correct.

“Don’t bluff. If you don’t know an answer, or you’re not the right person to address a particular question, say so,” says Price. “Don’t lie,” says Rossi. “If you’re caught in one, your credibility is gone.” Good reporters will have done their homework and may already know the answer to the question. “Most people feel intimidated by being interviewed because they feel an odd mix of power and powerlessness,” says Austria-based freelance writer Patti McCracken. “They are in the spotlight; yet do not have final say regarding how they’re represented.” Try to make sure you’re quoted correctly. “Think about what you want to say before you say it,” says Chelsea Lowe, an essayist and former news reporter from Brookline, Mass.
“But you shouldn’t overthink what you’re going to say. People can be overcautious.” Speak clearly and “in full sentences,” says Schwartz. “It sounds better for you and has something substantial [for the reader].” “Avoid jargon,” says Lowe. “Use clear language.” “Make the main point succinctly first, then explain/define/ amplify—rather than getting at the point in a roundabout way,” says Price. “Realize that just a phrase might be quoted, so make every phrase as clear and powerful as possible.” If you’ve wandered a bit, or you think you may have been misunderstood, ask the writer to paraphrase what you’ve said, or to read back what he’s written down. Correct any misstatements or misunderstandings immediately.

It’s important to get it right the first time, because once an interview is done, it’s done. You can ask to see your quotes before the article goes to press, but the publication may have a policy prohibiting that. And most writers won’t want to release their drafts. Because you want to get it right, “every company should designate a spokesperson,” says Fruchtman. “Make sure they’re the person most intelligent about the industry, and who presents himself or herself well.” Be honest. This person may not be the owner of the company, but the owner’s spouse, a manager, or a son or daughter coming into the business. “Choose someone who is comfortable and knowledgeable and will represent the firm well,” says Stanley.
The spokesperson should be “fairly well educated about your business, and the jewellery business,” says Fruchtman. “You need to be prepared to answer difficult questions. Be aware of what’s happening that affects the industry. Be up on what the consumer press is saying. Know what the chatter is about the industry.” Whoever your spokesperson is, says Fruchtman, work with a public relations or marketing company to get media training. “And don’t take it lightly,” she says. Once you’ve appointed and trained a spokesperson, no one else should speak to the press, she adds. A successful interview offers the reader an interesting story and gives your business positive exposure.

Making Up a Press Kit

A press kit outlines your company’s background and focus, says Caroline Stanley, president and CEO of Red Jewel Inc., Redondo Beach, Calif. It can include a description of the company’s history, with profiles of founders or current owners. Add information about your products and services, including brochures and copies of print ads. Details of your business philosophy, mission statement, and areas of expertise are excellent. Other press clippings serve as a third-party endorsement. Remember to include contact information, especially if the company spokesperson is different from the company owner. Put it all in a neat folder, imprinted with your company name and logo. Use the kit to introduce your company to the press, or to a designer whose line you want to carry. Kits need not be identical. Add and subtract information to suit the situation—for a writer, you may or may not include print ads, but you’ll want to include your areas of expertise and some background information. Keep a few press kits ready at all times.

Need of the hour: Hallmarking

2009-01-07T10:31:00.000-08:00

The Indian government postponed the implementation of the Gold Hallmarking Act, which was scheduled to come into effect from 1 January 2008, due to apprehensions by jewelers, led by the All India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF), officially representing about three lakh retailers across India. The hallmarking act would have made mandatory for all gold jewellery to be certified for purity at centers spread across the country.

According to GJF, licensing is the major issue which will hamper the growth of the jewelry industry. The BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards) licensing, which reminded jewellers of the ‘Gold Control Act’, is applicable only on the jewelry industry, echoing the times of the ‘Licensing Raj’. “We’ve seen the draconian effect of Gold Control Act, and we’re not ready for that experience again. The paperwork and procedure should be simple and transparent with the absence of taxation and rigidity in licensing system,” commented Atul Jain, director of AR Diamond Gem Grading Services. Some of the other objections raised included insufficient infrastructure and the precondition for a jeweler to have a license for selling hallmarked jewellery. Jain also mentioned that the license charges should be made affordable for the small jewelers, rather than catering to just the bigger players.

SL Palkar, regional coordinator, BIS-western region told JCK India, “Earlier the charges for licenses were Rs25,000 per year, but we are now charging the same amount for three years.” It was also necessary for BIS officials to visit the showroom prior to approval, but now the BIS requires jewelers to submit a photograph of the showroom with a declaration that they will not stock cadmium jewelry. “We issue licenses within two hours of the submission of required documents,” Palkar claimed.

Out of the 35 states and union territories in India, currently there are 106 hallmarking centres in 14 states, which have close to 5,000 licensee jewelers, according to the Indian Association of Hallmarking Centres (AIHC). An additional 12 states have more than 500 licensee jewelers, but no hallmarking centres. The remaining nine states and union territories have neither licensee jewelers nor hallmarking centres.

The four metropolitan cities of New Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Chennai currently have 41 hallmarking centres. The AIHC is adding 17 to take this number up to 58 by the first week of January 2009. Industry experts say this is still a fraction of the estimated infrastructure requirement of 500 centres for the successful infrastructure implementation of compulsory hallmarking.

Remarking on the weak infrastructure issue Uday Kumar Vummidi, secretary, Gems and Jewellery India International Exhibition (GJIIE) commented, “Hallmarking will definitely facilitate the growth of the industry, but it should be made mandatory only with adequate arrangement of proper infrastructure. It should be convenient, comfortable and accessible to every jeweller.”

However, BIS deputy director general P Sengupta finds the demand for more centres baseless, as even most of the existing ones are underutilised. “Despite this, the government is providing huge financial incentives for new centres, offering subsidy of Rs1-1.5 crore on each centre.

According to Indian Association of Hallmarking Centres’ Secretary, James Jose, only around 10 percent of the 106 existing hallmarking centres are working at full capacity. “There are huge unutilised capacities in the hallmarking centres - the average capacity of a hallmarking centre is roughly 2,500 pieces or 35 kilograms per day, which works out to 10 tonnes per annum.” Thus, the 106 centres across the country can hallmark more than 1,000 tonnes of jewellery every year, versus the actual hallmarking happening of less than 200 tonnes.

India’s annual consumption of gold jewelry went up from an estimated 65 tonnes in 1982 to 620 tonnes in 2000. However, there was no hallmarking of jewelry done in this period. For the first time, a mere two tonnes of jewelry was hallmarked in 2001, when jewelry consumption touched 615 tonnes. By 2007, India hallmarked 180 tonnes of jewelry against a consumption of nearly 560 tonnes.

Anticipating mandatory hallmarking, which was to be implemented in January 2008, many new centres sprang up in small towns as well as in the metros, irrespective of the volume of jewelry that can be hallmarked in these places. Commenting on low capacity utilisation, Jose said: “For instance, though the existing volume of hallmarked jewelry in Mysore is not sufficient even for a single centre, it has four hallmarking centres. The same is applicable for Kollam in Kerala, where daily hallmarking volumes are hardly five percent of installed capacity. Of all the licensee jewelers, only around 25 percent go for 100 percent hallmarking.”

The act also calls for jewelr y below five grams to be hallmarked, though it will not have enough space to be stamped. Jewelers demanded exemption of such jewelry from the act. They believed “the onus of lower purity of hallmarked jewelry should lie on the hallmarking centres and not jewellers,” and are demanding this aspect be clearly stated in the amended act. Also, hallmarking done by manufacturers should be acceptable and need not be double-checked by the retailer.

Despite supporting the government’s stance on hallmarking, most jewellers want to see serious measures taken on the issues like certain kinds of jewellery, like meenakari, kundan and polki type handcrafted jewelry, being exempt from hallmarking. Speaking in favour of hallmarking, Tumal Jain, secretary, Delhi Jewellers Association said, “Hallmarking is always better for the trade. It is going to help to win consumer confidence.” But he also believed jewelry having less than five percent metal elements (which is worth Rs20 lakh, but comprises precious metals worth Rs5,000) should be exempted.”

Vivek Kala, president of Jaipur Jewellers Association agreed with Tumal Jain. “There should be a proper declaration of the clauses mentioned in the act. Jewelers like us who deal with colored stone or diamond-studded jewellery, need to certify the diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. The government should also take into account special cases like customised designs. If a customer goes for his choice of designer ring, the already hallmarked pieces will remain unsold.”

“Jewelers should be allowed to keep both certified and non-certified jeweller y. The customer is well educated; he has a clear idea of what he is buying. If the customer himself starts demanding hallmarked jewelry, jewelers will have to stock it,” Atul Jain said.

Interestingly, a 2006 government survey of 16 cities found that of 162 samples, more than 90 percent failed in terms of purity. This means a customer who bought gold jewelry labelled 22k could have in reality been cheated by being sold 18k jewelry.

Commenting on errors in karat declaration, BIS’ Sengupta commented: “We have found many such cases, where the customer is fooled by the jeweler. The jewelry is actually 22k; but the jeweller sells it as 24k jewellery, which in today’s scenario could cost an additional Rs1,200- 1,300.”

In 1998-99, World Gold Council (WGC) and the Reserve Bank of India (RBI) together introduced hallmarking in India on the back of the RBI Precious Metal Committee’s report stating the need of quality control in jewelry to safeguard the consumers’ rights. After the inception of the first hallmarking centre in April 2000, the committee conducted surveys in 2001 and 2006, and both times the findings were uninspiring. Also, as per a recent BIS survey around 87 percent of the gold jewelery sold in India is below the stated karatage level. All these reports were more than enough to force the government to make it compulsory for the jewelry industry to hallmarking the jewelry, officials explained.

The government is now reforming the act, the bill for which is pending in parliament, considering the issues raised by the jewelers. Representing jewelers’ optimism, GJF chairman, Ashok Minawala, told JCK India, “We showed loopholes in the bill, which would have acted as big hurdles in activation otherwise. The government has promised us that it is going to make amendments considering our demands.” The government has also assured the industry of a sixty-day-preparatory period before the act is finally implemented.

“Among the recent developments in the Hallmarking Act was the inclusion of a new karat introduced in the industry, namely the 17 karat (with a fineness 708), so that the items rejected on 18 karat fineness can also be put up for sale with a marking of lower karatage,” Jose said, adding: “Marking to next lower fineness or karatage is possible in 22 karat and 18 karat too, and jewelry below two grams and nine karat is exempt from hallmarking. The hallmarking technology too has improved as the centres can now hallmark up to 99.9 against 99.5 earlier.”

Kala believed hallmarking will work as a catalyst for jewelry trade, but should be a voluntary process. “Jewelers who stock hallmarked jewelry can promote themselves through extensive media campaigns. It will create awareness among consumers, which in turn will further push the demand for hallmarked jewellery. Those who will deny hallmarking will suffer losses and will have to opt for hallmarking. Therefore consumers’ education is the best means to implement hallmarking.”

An interesting point was raised by Gaurav Anand, owner of Indore-based Punjab Jewellers, who said that hallmarking should be implemented at the manufacturing level, so damages can be cleaned up before the jewelry reaches the retailer. “There is only one hallmarking centre in Indore and it is sufficient to cater to the needs of Indore jewelers.”

Though India is home to various types of handcrafted jewelry, exports are limited only to cut and polished diamonds. According to industry experts, mandatory hallmarking along with the Vienna Convention will create new avenues for jewelry export. “It will make Indian jewelry acceptable anywhere in the world without any further quality checks,” Jose said.

(click on image to enlarge)

International Gemstone Trends

2009-01-07T10:26:00.000-08:00

With the emerging popularity of gemstones, many consumers who are beginning to form a part of the market for gemstones are looking for answers to various questions with regards to color, cut, price and jewelry styles that are fashionable and trendy.

The fact of the matter is that the gemstone industry is so large and varied that there are various international trends running in at the same time. Additionally, there are many people who tend to have different reasons for purchasing gemstones other than just fashion trends. Some buy gemstones due to superstitious beliefs and the mystical powers that some of the gemstones are believed to possess. The alexandrite, for example, is known to increase the intuitive powers of the wearer and is believed to help during times of crisis. The aquamarine brings forth youth and joy, the coral is effective during financial troubles, jade has healing powers, iolite opens the inner eye and increases wisdom, the garnet brings prosperity, cat’s eye helps in warding away bad fortune and much more. The popularity of certain gemstones is impacted significantly due to these beliefs. The blue sapphire is one such example where people believed that it can either be extremely positive for the wearer or extremely negative, causing accidents and threats to life in some cases. Since the preference for specific gemstones is based more on individual requirements as against a fashion trend, many of these gems have their own niche customers who require it for various purposes.

There are also people who prefer to choose their gemstones on the basis of the colors that they fancy. Given that the awareness of gemstones is increasing there is knowledge about the fact that there are various kinds of gemstones. Till a few years back, women thought and talked only about the diamond when gemstones were discussed. While the diamond has carved (no pun intended) an elite niche of itself, other precious gemstones like the ruby, emerald, garnets and more have moved in. With additional knowledge also came an understanding of the fact that each gemstone could be available in various colors and that each color has its own uniqueness. People therefore chose their gemstones based on their favorite colors and the dress for the occasion (especially for the not-so-expensive gemstones). From saturated shades of green to vibrant red, blue sapphires, dazzling yellow and even mauve, each one can have their pick from rubies, emeralds, sapphires, garnets, tourmalines, amethyst, tanzanite, corals and more.

In spite of the increasing popularity of gemstones, they are not readily available in all markets. And therefore the more adventurous and innovative gemstone wearers tend to buy what is available in the market. But the connoisseurs, experts and those who have been buying gemstones for some time tend to collect gemstones based on their uniqueness and rarity.
But internationally, gemstone trends and fashions tend to follow haute couture. When the release of fall winter collections brings forth dark earthy shades of brown as the trend for the season, experts offer expert advice to match these with designer gemstones like the ‘champagne’ diamond, tiger’s eye, fire opal or the yellow brown topaz. Summer time brings about lighter and more pastel hues that can be accentuated by bright transparent pink tourmalines or sapphires to light blue sapphires and mauve amethysts.

When it comes to the cut, standard cuts and classic styles have made way for fancy cuts like the briolette teardrop and checkerboard facets. These are being used in necklaces and other jewellery items like earrings and even bracelets and rings. Arguably, the standard round, oval and more recent rectangular cuts may never die, fancy cuts are preferred these days since they are uncommon and stylish. The brilliance of these cuts is unmatched and far superior to the classic cuts that were popular in the yesteryears.

Even though availability of the product locally may be an issue, those who are mesmerized by the beauty of gemstones and their variety can source these from the Internet if they are not available locally. Even manufacturers and marketers who are involved with the industry and want to source roughs need to just access the Internet to find various providers across the world be it in South Africa, Tanzania, Europe, Sri Lanka or the Indian subcontinent.

What Is Enamelling Or Surface Ornamentation ?

2009-01-07T10:18:00.001-08:00

Enamelling or surface ornamentation is not merely an art; it is the expression of an artist which he tries to depict through his art.

The art of decorating metal with enamelling or Meenakari was alien to India, until the Mughals—the true lovers of art—introduced it. Raja Man Singh of Amber brought meenakari to Rajasthan at the turn of the 16th century. He brought skillful meenakars from the Mughal palace at Lahore and established them in Jaipur, which became the center of meenakari. Enamelling here is done in the champleve technique, which means that the surface of gold or silver is hollowed out so that the cavity can be filled with a mineral.

The art flourished and spread to many parts of India. This was the common decorative link between Muslim and Hindu art. The synthesis of these two cultures produced a period of grandeur and brilliance that dazzled the world.

Today this art is restricted to the state of Rajasthan, some parts of Chamba in Himachal Pradesh and Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. Just one family is involved in pink enamelling of Varanasi as of today.

In Rajasthan, traditional designers are the experts who draw the motifs directly on the metal. This art requires specialist craftsmanship calling for both high accuracy and predictably, style. The Jaipur enamellists have a special engraving pattern, which depends on transparent and opaque colors. Panchrangi Mina is a technique where five colors are used namely, transparent dark blue, transparent green, transparent red, opaque light blue and opaque white. Jaipur is also famous for reverse side enamelling. In this style, the visible front usually displays gemstones and enameling is done on the reverse, to protect the gold from abrasion and in the process increasing the value of the gold used.

The other way is when the piece to be enameled is fixed on lac and designs are traced out. The metal is pushed with an engraver and a wall is made out of the metal. The wall is made to hold the colors within its boundary, while engravings are made in the grooves to heighten the beauty of the jewel. The surface is completely burnished by agate; then the enamel colors are filled in a painstaking manner similar to how miniature paintings are made. (There are artisans who still make miniature portraits of kings, gods and goddesses). The piece is baked on a high fire range on a mica plate to keep it off the fire. Colors are applied in order of their hardness, those requiring more heat first and those requiring less heat later.

More than one craftsman was often involved in the making of a single piece of jewellery. The chiterias made the design, the ghaarias did the engraving, the enameller did meenakari and the sunar was the goldsmith. These craftsmen received patronage from the nobles and the kings and therefore, they did not have to compromise their art for the sake of popular taste.

Reviving the Art

The government can retrieve this dying art in the form of art camps, by providing permanent space (for example, Delhi has Delhi haat) free of avoidable costs like taxes, etc, organize fairs or craft bazaars, where stalls are free and even by way of honors and awards (mostly monetary).

Here is a list of reasons why this art is dying. Very few art lovers really appreciate art in the right spirit and are ready to pay the price. The cost of basic raw materials like, gem stone powder, has risen drastically, artisans have started using colored glass as a substitute, affecting the art’s authenticity, which is truly a matter of concern. The elaborate technique of firing at different temperatures to get the right color gets cumbersome. Thus the easy availability of low cost synthetic enamelling material that does not require the tedious procedure of firing and which is easy to apply, does not chip off easily and lasts longer. But this is killing the original art form. The jeweler/manufacturer also charges the client a huge amount for this art, but does not share profits with the almost underpaid artisan.

There is another side to the coin that we must understand. Surface ornamentation is not merely an art; it is the expression of an artist, which he tries to depict through his art. The design or the inspiration drawn is from nature and life. Thus, each piece has its own unique style and identity with a concept behind the creation.

Export firms are trying to develop this technique, but facing a crucial problem in consistency of color and shade for a large order. They are facing tough competition from Italy in the world market. Many jewelry designing schools and fine art colleges are teaching enamelling, but none of them are able to give effective results. There have to be combined efforts from the government, jewelers and students to revive and respect this art and the artisans.

Devinder Layal is the designer and Head, Jasani Department of Jewellery Design and Manufacture, PV Polytechnic, SNDT Women’s University.

A Report On What Brides Want

2009-01-07T10:05:00.000-08:00

“Weddings are not just about two people getting married; it is about two families uniting.” This adage is tailor made to fit the Indian weddings. Above everything else, it is an occasion for everyone to go shopping. And when we talk weddings, one of the first shopping destinations has to be a jewelry store.

Jewelry is one of the most important items on a bride’s shopping list. But the trends and the demands may differ from one year to the other. So what is the trend this year? “Traditional but with a twist,” answers Koshy Cherian, regional business executive of Tanishq. “The last few years saw an upsurge in the demand for contemporary designs. But people are now demanding a healthy mix of the contemporary and the traditional with a bend towards the latter.”

This is the reason that Tanishq is launching three new ranges for this bridal season based on the themes of the temple jewelry and the Rajputana style with a touch of kundan. Other jewelry designers and manufacturers are making similar attempts who believe that kundan can never go out of fashion, especially when talking of wedding jewelry.

People are supporting the fuller look. For the various wedding related ceremonies like the mehendi, sangeet or haldi, girls favor a minimalist look. Yet for the big day, they prefer an elegant set that gives a full look. The metal of the jewelry and the stones used to enhance the look play an important role here. Gold remains the ruler, whether yellow or white. “People usually go for yellow gold studded with diamonds.

But those who are ready to experiment prefer white gold. The white look is in this season,” claims jewelry designer, Roopa Vohra. Along with white gold, other preferred metals for this wedding season are silver, pewter (Malaysian silver) and matt gold for classic jewelry, informs fashion designer Lina Tipnis, who is witnessing many brides matching their wedding trousseaus with these metals.

Colors of Tradition

Diamonds can never go out of fashion as will be evident in this bridal season too. Alongside diamonds, a number of precious and semi-precious colored stones are ruling the market. “Emeralds and rubies are attracting a huge number of brides this season,” points out Shalin Vora, jewelry designer and proprietor of Dia Amour.

This view is supported by Vohra who explains that green is the color this season not only for India but also on the global scale, making emerald a major choice for people. This makes green and red the colors of this season, a view that is being endorsed by both jewelry designers and fashion designers. Blue, especially turquoise, comes in second after green and red. It is, however, being reserved for smaller sets that are worn on other marriage ceremonies.

Industry experts firmly believe that even if the metals and the stones are all put together at the right time as per the market demand, what sells are the designs. Whether modern or traditional jewelry, the floral pattern remains truly evergreen. But that too has evolved over the years. They are no longer complicated, intricate designs.More of geometric designs work for the modern consumers.

They are looking for a healthy mix between the modern and the traditional. For example, a ring or a necklace set in prong setting, with straight lines, studded with diamonds and rubies would attract more customers than a chunky round piece with an intricate design and that is heavy to carry. This proves that they want simple, straight, uncomplicated designs.

India Speaks

Industry insiders are quick to point out that choices differ according to the bride’s cultural background. A bride from North India will have a different taste from that of a South Indian bride. Similarly, East Indian girls would demand different jewelry from West Indian girls. This observation is true to some extent but the lines are blurring out with each passing generation.

North India proves to be the best place for experimentation. Delhi is fast becoming the fashion hub because of it being a major jewelry retail market. People in North India are very conscious about the look of the product, making craftsmanship of immense value to them. Simple, geometric designs grab the major market but with a touch of traditionalism. According to Vijay Khanna of Khanna Jewelers, “diamonds, especially uncut diamonds, provide huge business along with rhodium plating.”

The formula for North is exclusivity. They want to own designs that will not be worn by anyone else. Jewelers are ready with their stocks by the beginning of August. Eye catching designs teamed with precious and semi-precious stones like emeralds, rubies, onyxes and turquoise are hot sellers for this wedding season. This makes red and green the color for North India with a touch of blue to enhance the look of the jewelry pieces.

“In the South, bulky jewelry is totally out for this bridal season,” declares K. Srinavasan, managing director, Emerald Jewel (Coimbatore). Modern, light weight jewelry studded with diamonds is in demand. South India is moving towards the sleek and elegant look. “Earlier, the brides preferred jewelry of around 150-300 gm but now the weight has come down to just 50-60 gm,” says Srinivasan.

Modern-day brides prefer around two to three jewelry sets that would match their clothes and accessories. The demand for yellow gold exists but has considerably gone down. Diamonds studded jewelry provides maximum business. Floral continues to weave its magic supported by bird-inspired motifs like the peacock and geometric designs.

The popularity of enameled jewelry in green and red is proving that these two colors are going to rule this bridal season. A touch of purple is making South India stand out on the wedding circuit.

South India witnesses maximum movement in the bridal market during September to December and February to May in terms of stocking, manufacturing and selling bridal jewelry. August is considered an inauspicious month and January too provides little business.

Majority of heavy bridal jewelry comes to South India from Kolkata, Mumbai, Delhi and Rajkot. Coimbatore and Trichur form the hub for lightweight jewelry. Some of the major retailers for bridal jewelry in South India are GRT and Sarwanas Jewellers from Chennai, Thangamayal from Madurai, Allukas from Coimbatore and AVR and ANS Jewellers from Salem.

In East India, according to MP Jewellers (Kolkata), bridal jewelry sales mostly take place in the first and the last quarter of the year, making it a seasonal business. But contrary to popular belief, East Indian brides prefer wearable, affordable and light weight jewelry. They are looking out for ethno-contemporary jewelry with a lot of filigree and wirework.

The designs are mostly geometric patterns with a lot of hexagons, triangles, rounds and octagons. With the rise in the number of educated women, the tastes of East Indian women are changing faster than women in other metros. They are favoring big diamonds, both uncut and full cut, and platinum jewelry as opposed to the traditional yellow gold jewelry.

This trend is supported by a recent DTC survey that claimed a 19 percent increase in the diamond jewelry sector. Brides are moving towards modern trends keeping their traditions in place. This can be seen in jewelry shops where red, green and blue are the colors in vogue but ivory white and maroon are two colors that are witnessing an equivalent demand.

In the West, Mumbai is a trendsetter but not a hasty buyer, explains jewelry designer and proprietor of Dia Amour, Shalin Vora. Being the hub of glamour and fashion, it generally is ready for experimentation and adopting new ideas. But they want value for money. They do not purchase products simply because it suits their fancy, which is usually seen in Delhi and Kolkata.

“A ring that looks expensive and beautiful, irrespective of the stones and the metals, will immediately sell in Delhi. But Mumbai people will also ensure themselves regarding the quality of the stones and the metal used. They will make sure that they are paying exactly for what they are buying,” elucidates jewelry designer, Varuna D Jani.

This is because they want to be sure of both the quality and the look of the product. Pune comes second after Mumbai as the trends usually seep through to the city that is slowly becoming fashion conscious.

Except these two cities, others cities in Maharashtra and Gujarat prefer to stay with their traditional roots. Yellow gold with diamonds or an occasional colored stone forms an important part of their wedding trousseau. Yet over a period, a considerable amount of change has been noticed in the tastes of these cities. Although still traditionally inclined, the youth of these cities are fast adapting to the changing trends of fusion jewelry.

A comparison of the four corners of India proves that unity in diversity rules. Whether from North, South, East or West none of the brides wants to look like a decked up jewelry stores on their big day. This is the reason that they demand jewelry that would compliment their entire wedding trousseau and are ready to experiment for that purpose. Jewelry has to adorn the bride and not burden her.

This desire is giving way to the trend for detachable jewelry. “Brides today do not want jewelry that they can only wear on their wedding day and then never bring it out of their bank lockers till their children’s wedding day. They want pieces that can be worn on various occasions. That is why detachable jewelry is a good option. This gives them the alternative of wearing the various components of a particular jewelry as different jewelry pieces on diverse occasions,” says jewelry designer, Varuna D Jani.

The Big Bucks

Weddings form an important business opportunity for any jeweler. But how big is this market in India? “800 billion,” says Rohit Moona, business coordinator of the Celebrating Vivah Exposition, a wedding exhibition hosted by the Celebrated Vivah magazine. “And it is growing by at least 25 percent per annum,” he adds.

Supporting this view is Shehzad Jhaveri, managing director of Minawala Jewellers who believes that about 70 percent of the total jewelry market belongs to bridal jewelry. According to a recent World Gold Council report, jewelry demand saw a 89 percent rise in the second quarter of the year, largely due to the onset of the wedding season and a lot more muhurats (auspicious days for weddings) being declared this quarter than the previous quarter.

In India, the wedding cycle begins around the months of April and May. These are the months when production begins for the wedding season. By September, jewelers are ready with their products. The wedding season begins around October and continues up to February.

Considering the fact that, contrary to popular belief, wedding is a round the year process, why is it that the returns are not equivalent to the investment for jewelers? Claims jewelry designer Shalin Vora, “Our investment is around a crore for any particular bridal line but the returns are only 8 percent of the investment.” He explains the growing competitive market to be a reason behind this phenomenon.

“With the huge number of big and small players entering the market, the level of competition is going up everyday. This is making it difficult for one particular player to rule the market,” he exclaims. But this return on investment ratio is only limited to the stocked products. The profits made on customized products are much higher. He agrees that it is a positive trend because there is no monopoly but it reduces individual returns.

The future of the bridal jewelry market lies in fusion and colors. Choices are fast changing. This is being supported by factors like growing ways of income, the booming economy and the rising real estate prices, leading to the high purchasing power of the people.

This growth in money can be cashed in on by the jewelry industry, especially during the wedding season. People are no longer rigid about their preferences and are ready to pay for the best. The coming wedding season is expected to witness a positive growth in the bridal jewelry sector because this season all that glitters can be anything from gold to diamond to emeralds and rubies.

The Magic of Detachable Jewelry

India has been accustomed to jewelry since times immemorial. And when it comes to bridal jewelry, it has always been traditional to wear heavy sets that provide a full look. This ‘tradition’ led to a phase where wedding jewelry was only worn on the day of the marriage and then kept in lockers. They would only come out of the lockers when the next member of the family was ready for marriage. Till then it was simply a piece of investment.
But times are changing. Although bridal jewelry is still considered investment to some extent, women are demanding jewelry that will not end up in their bank lockers. This demand has given birth to detachable jewelry. By definition detachable jewelry is any piece whose components can be separated and worn as individual pieces of jewelry. The concept of detachable jewelry is fast gaining popularity as it gives women the option of buying jewelry once and teaming it up with different attires.

Special Page: NRI Love

When 25 year old, UK based, Sruti Khanna decided to marry her long time beau, Shayan Khatri, she chose India as her wedding shopping destination. “I wanted my wedding to be a family affair. So I decided to go back to my family in India for my wedding. Along side this gave me the opportunity to go shopping for authentic Indian jewelry,” reveals Sruti.

Sruti’s is not a one of case. According to the Hindu calendar, the Indian sub-continent has 12 seasons. But for Indians, whether in the sub-continent or abroad, there exists a thirteenth season—the wedding season. This season witnesses a lot of home coming of non-resident Indians (NRIs).

NRIs provide the majority of business to the bridal jewelry market. A huge amount of jewelry is exported to foreign lands but a higher amount is sold within the sub-continent. Majority of people come back during marriages and do all their shopping with their families.

Jewelers and jewelry designers give a similar reason as Sruti for this phenomenon. “It gives them a sense of home coming,” says Rohit Moona, the business coordinator of the Celebrating Vivaha exposition and jewelry designer, Shalin Vora. “It is also an opportunity to choose from a large variety of products at a lower cost,” adds Koshy Cherian, regional business executive of Tanishq.

But are their demands the same as those of the girls from the Indian sub-continent? “Yes,” says Vijay Khanna of Khanna Jewellers. “If they wanted products that are available in their respective countries they would never come to India. The very fact that they are coming to India proves that they want the products that are made in India,” he explains.

A similar trend is observed by other industry professionals too. There is not much difference in the products that an Indian bride and a NRI bride would purchase. A major reason for this is that marriages are family affairs. Even if a bride would like to go for a minimal look for her big day, she ends up buying a heavy set because that is the ‘Indian tradition.’

Majority of the NRI brides are opting for the ‘white look.’ Diamonds set in white gold or white gold studded with colored stones is in high demand. Their love for colored stones is not limited to only emeralds and rubies. They are open to experimentation with other precious and semi precious stones too.

A noteworthy factor is that NRI brides are breaking the grounds of superstition and opting for stones like the blue sapphire which is otherwise avoided in the Indian mainland, unless astrologically advised.

Besides that the brides also want to own a piece of tradition. This is leading to the high sales of light weight jewelry with traditional designs. They do not want complicates pieces or designs, making the geometric and nature inspired designs a hit.

A significant influence of the west is visible in the sale of rings among NRIs. Fashion designer, Lina Tipnis informs that 8 out of 10 women purchase rings. This is a trend that has been on a rise in the recent years. The fascination of the west with the engagement ring has made it a rage amongst the NRI brides, especially the ones with sweet nothings engraved on them. This is increasing the market for big solitaires set in white gold or, occasionally, platinum rings.
It is evident from these trends that whether a girl stays in the Indian sub-continent or abroad, their jewelry choice for the final day is not very different. Traditional bridal sets continue to be the main attraction along with a touch of the west. Her jewelry speaks volumes about her personality, expressing the fact that she maybe living in any part of the world but she will always be rooted to her motherland.

Meet The New Consumer

2009-01-07T10:03:00.000-08:00

The changing face of the Indian customer means business opportunities for jewelers. But how to identify these consumers and their demands? JCK India tries to figure it out. Not so long ago people earned and saved enough for seven generations to live happily ever after. People lived frugally and bought land and gold so that their progeny was secure. All this is changing. Forget seven generations, people now don’t even want to think of tomorrow.

Live life king size here and now, that’s the motto. They still buy land and gold but the motives are different. No longer are girls adorning themselves because of religious dictates or societal pressures of the suhagan with the mangalsutra and a wrist laden with bangles. Slowly but surely winds of change are wafting in from distant lands.

The shrinking of the world has widened the choices in fashion accessories of which jewelry is an integral part not just for women but for men too. Concepts of muted, chic, everyday jewelry can be seen in work places, like banks and corporate offices, which now have a fair sprinkling of the fairer sex. Also, sheer or solid gold, with its 24k value tag, is giving way to stones, precious and semi-precious, with little concern for its resale value.

Geeta Ram, mother of Ashwati who works for Infosys in Chennai said, “What stridhan can I give my daughter when she herself is earning a fat salary? She is her own stridhan.” Ashwati is getting married in December this year. Her trousseau shopping included couture jewelry of diamonds and colored stones. Geeta bowed down to her daughter’s wishes and traditional jewelry shopping just did not happen.

While the love for gold in India is as old as the Gods themselves, the reasons for buying ornaments are changing. The traditional reasons remain a marriage in the family or festive buying like Diwali and Dussehra. But newer urges and impulses are emerging as winners. There is a large appetite for adventure and willingness to experiment. It is more about wearing jewelry for its non-tangible value of innate satisfaction rather than the calculating financial implications.

New Interest in Jewelry

So why and how is the new Indian shopping for jewelry? The galloping wealth among urbanites and more so among people around 25, has spawned homogeneity in lifestyles. Therefore the struggle to make a statement or stand out in a crowd is even more intense, discrete and strategic. This was the consistent and imperative message one got from consumers of all shades. There are vestiges of a hangover from the past only with the older generation.

These can be seen in their unbroken links with the family jeweler (sunar) and their buying gold on religious occasions, be it bits or in chunks. But these residues from the past may soon be wiped out with the new trends of buying to satisfy the deep rooted sense of individual aesthetics and having something that is unique, rare and exclusive.

The only way to stand out is to flaunt an exclusive brand name or a design so rare that it takes your breath away. No one is merely impressed with just a lot of gold or diamonds to flaunt wealth. The search is on for that exclusive piece and the longing for that beyond the reach nametag.

And so Vijaya Aney one day bundled all her gold jewelry, which was lying in the bank and took it to the jewelers to melt. She sold it to acquire one and a half karat super deluxe diamond solitaire earrings, another pair of earrings with a circle of rubies and a single diamond at the centre and a diamond pendant. She has never regretted her decision. “I know in my lifetime I would never need to sell my gold for any financial crisis,” says Vijaya who teaches law at K. C. College and is the wife of a successful senior lawyer, Srihari Aney.

In fact, that one act has freed her from the psychological burden of hoarding jewelry as investment or security. She now indulges in adventurous jewelry shopping. She bought a blue beryl dangling earring which was basically stones in their natural state swinging from a gold hook and one earring of a different shape from the one on the other ear.

A pick from Nalini Designs of Chennai, Vijaya said she was astounded to see the kind of daredevil designs with new age stones that Nalini Panday, the designer and the proprietor, was creating in the supposedly conservative gold market of Chennai. She said although she bought the blue beryl earrings with trepidation, it is a piece which never fails to get the wows, in spite of the mad concept of each ear having a different shape.

She was thrilled to see a hundred year old kundan maang tikka, which Nalini Panday had strung in red silicon based Japanese wire with a sprinkling of gold beads and pearls, a bold marriage between the ancient and the avant garde. “The piece looked both classy and contemporary,” Vijaya said.

Fearless Experimentation

Another symbol of this fearless experimentation visible among women is 80-year-old Mukta Deshpande of Nagpur. Always perfectly groomed even at her age, clothes and accessory have always been a passion with her. Fond of wearing jhumkas and dangling earrings she could not indulge in this passion because her husband never approved of it. After her husband passed away a couple of years back, she dived headlong into buying jhumkas.

Not only that, during her recent visit to Mumbai she bought eight pairs of artificial earrings, bold and fancy in their look. She recalled with a chuckle how two decades back she had scolded her daughter-in-law for restyling gold jewelry but today she herself did not bat an eyelid while buying junk jewelry for Rs 4,000.

Sejal Parekh, Interior Decorator, in her own right and wife of Oncologist Dr Deepak Parekh, has all the resources to buy solitaires and the high-end jewelry which money can buy. But, her heart is in junk jewelry. For years now she has bought ‘rubbish’ and ‘junk,’ as she calls it, from Jamini Alhuwalia on Carmichael road.

Although junk, she says, she pays as much as Rs 2,000 plus for Jamini’s innovative ideas. She loves Jamini’s penchant for mixing material like leather, glass, etc. What about the trousseau for her two daughters? There is enough of heirloom family jewels which she has allocated for them. But, even her daughters value her ‘junk’ and very often fight over allocation of this jewelry more than the real stuff.

Neena Gupta, actor, likes to shop for a mix of junk and the real stuff. In the real stuff she would rather go for kundan or sheer gold, which she buys from her source in Delhi. The only showroom she trusts implicitly is Tanishq because of the Tata name attached to it. This is an often-expressed sentiment among many buyers. She buys most of her semi-precious stuff from Amrapali in the Oberoi’s.

Cherished Possessions

Nothing is more satisfying than getting that silent, sly glance of a jealous admirer. So when Savitri, 22, went with her mother to Dubai ten years ago, gold was also on their shopping list like so many Indians who visit Dubai. There were, of course, all those shops in the souk, which sold the regular chunky gold stuff for the prudent Indian buyer. But, Savitri, chanced upon a D’damas store.

She couldn’t take her eyes off the jewelry with its gauze and intricate work done with gold. She bought a necklace of Japanese workmanship. It was a filigreed chain in yellow and white gold in which the white shone like diamonds. She paid for the workmanship and the design as much as she did for the gold in it which made her mother wince. This pain, her mother now admits, has turned into pleasure because the chain invariably gets admiring inquiries. “Resale value, nil, but satisfaction of possession immense,” she says.

Sathya Saran, Editor “Me”, who was associated with the Miss India Beauty Pageant during its best years, is an epitome of the hugely successful workingwoman with her femininity, grace and eloquence not ravaged by the vagaries of a demanding profession. Whether in a sari, slacks or salwar kameez, chic and sometimes chunky pieces of jewelry complete her ensemble to work every day. She loves buying colored stones be it precious or semi-precious.

She finds experimenting with precious stones through high heat and chemicals exciting. Now one has multicolored sapphires, diamonds, pearls. Speaking from not just personal preferences but also from the information that she has access to as a journalist, she is amazed to see the kind of work Indian designers like Farah Khan, Neelam Kothari and Neeta Bhosale are achieving with unlettered goldsmiths.

Changing Trends

Keeping up with the times and what’s in is an integral part of fashion and therefore uniformity in the market is a natural fallout of this phenomenon. It is not surprising to see the new trends in all the major metros and in smaller but upcoming towns. Therefore it is not only orthodox Chennai which is patronizing contemporary jewelry but Marxist Calcutta too is not far behind. So, Meeta Banerjee is completing her daughter’s trousseau shopping in Fort Knox, the new landmark for the ultimate in jewelry.

Nowhere are jewelry and new trends more visible than in Delhi. A city most acutely conscious of social status and keeping up with the Joneses, the whole range from chunky kundans to trinkets in diamonds are pursued. But the younger lot pit jewelry last on their priority list of owning a car, house, gadgets and traveling. Sure, jewelry is chased but if cash is low then anything cheap would do to adorn oneself.

Sanjaya Khanilkar, who hails from Delhi, is an avid shopper and surveyor of the market. She too is enamored of the new stones visible in the market. She, however, feels that some kind of certification and evaluation of these stones would greatly enhance confidence among buyers who are fence sitters like her. She has had a bad experience with stone buying.

Advised by her astrologer, she bought a topaz for Rs 30,000. Now, she says, she has found other gemologists assessing its value from Rs 3,000 to 20,000. This is disheartening, she says. If only this business of evaluating stones is systematized, women who buy for both aspiration and investment, will not hesitate to buy diamonds or even other stones.

Thus, it can be said that the new Indian buyer is “stoned”! Whatever be the base metal, gold, platinum, silver or even the newcomer, titanium, stones are the aspiration and fascination of the new buyer.

Fine jewellery purchases low in 2008; JCOC

2009-01-07T09:53:00.000-08:00

The Jewelry Consumer Opinion Council (JCOC) conducted a survey to understand the holiday purchase pattern of 2008. Purchases, overall, including jewellery seem to have gone down.
According to the survey, the percentage of consumers who spent between "$100 and $200" on fine jewellery has decreased to 19% from the earlier 31% last year.

Observing a slight change in the shopping pattern as compared to 2007, the report revealed that there was an increase in the percentage of respondents who shopped at mass discount stores and at department stores.

JCOC founded in 2001, provides the gem and jewellery industries with fast, efficient, effective, and powerful business and market intelligence about jewellery products and their respective end-use consumers.

Green bench practices reduces environmental impact

2009-01-07T09:43:00.000-08:00

As recently as 2004, the environmental impact from making jewelry was rarely mentioned. But awareness has grown quickly, and today a Google search for the term eco jewelry provides millions of results.
The green movement is exploding as the media focus attention on the environment and global warming, spurred by Al Gore’s film, An Inconvenient Truth, released in 2006. But the words green and sustainable are overused and have largely become marketing hype. So let’s define them: The green movement interweaves environmental goals with a sense of personal and social responsibility. Sustainable practices use resources without depleting them or permanently damaging the environment that yields them.

For jewelers, sustainable business practices begin with analyzing their supply chain. When placing orders, ask questions about suppliers’ products and practices before purchasing. Where do they come from? Is the metal recycled? Are the gemstones responsibly sourced and processed without using child or sweatshop labor? How have they lessened the environmental impact of their packing materials and shipping procedures?

Ask to see copies of their fair-trade, social, and environmental policies and ask which of their products are produced accordingly. If no policies exist, encourage them to develop responsible practices and abide by them in their sourcing. “Be sure you bring up your concerns, and if they don’t give you the answer you’re looking for, seek alternative [sources],” says Eric Alulis, vice president of product development for Superfit Inc.

“Buy from companies that are earnestly trying to make a difference,” advises Gabriel Craig, green consultant for the Society of North American Goldsmiths. “Request that they carry eco-friendly products, or inform them that you would be interested in purchasing eco-friendly products if they were to be carried.”

When possible, choose local suppliers to minimize shipping costs and carbon footprint.

Metal refining is also potentially damaging to the environment, says Alulis. “When choosing a refiner to partner with, be sure to understand how their operations are run,” he advises.

Refiner Hoover & Strong is working to minimize its environmental impact and improve the efficiency of its operations. “Our new refining process uses 80 percent fewer chemicals and saves two days of refining time,” says company president Torry Hoover.

More suppliers are shifting to recycled metals. All precious metals purchased from Hoover & Strong are 100 percent recycled. At Rio Grande, sterling casting grain and sterling jewelry products cast in-house are 100 percent recycled.
Using recycled precious metals reduces the need for mining, lessening its environmental impact.

Tracing the supply chain of gemstones is more difficult. Considerations include the treatment of miners, stonecutters, and polishers in addition to the environmental impact of gem mining and manufacturing. The Madison Dialogue was established in 2006 to promote communication among groups that want to encourage the development of responsible sources of gemstones and precious metals.

Some retail jewelers are partnering with small-scale miners who can assure them of ethical practices. Others are partnering with wholesalers who oversee each step of the supply chain.
More information on this can be found in the April 2008 issue of JCK (The Green Issue).

Capture and reclaim all precious metals. You can download tips for improving your returns from the Hoover & Strong Web site. These include separating metal scrap, installing a sink trap, capturing dust in floor mats or carpets, and vacuuming frequently with a dedicated vacuum. Collect anything used in precious-metal manufacturing in a special bin to be turned in for refining. Aprons, rags, buffs, brushes, emery paper, and polishing dust also may be refined.
Jewelers can use a wet paper towel (made from recycled paper) to clean their hands before washing at the sink. Workers should reuse their own paper towel throughout the day to reduce waste. Collect the towels in the bin to be refined in order to capture particles usually washed away. The refiner assures us this practice is worth the effort, expense, and resources, stating,
“You would be surprised at how many small particles go into the sewer otherwise.” Hang a cloth towel by the sink to dry hands after washing.

James Binnion Metal Arts recommends using a fully enclosed polishing hood like the Quatro Clearview. “It makes a significant difference in how much dust you capture, which is a sustainable environmental health practice and saves you money,” says James Binnion. He also recommends using cartridge or bag-type dust collectors instead of benchtop units, which allow much of the dust, including precious metals, to be blown out of the back of the unit. Clean the unit and change the bag or cartridge regularly to keep the system running at optimum efficiency, and send dust and collector to the refiner.

Encourage customers to recycle their precious metals. America’s jewelry boxes contain an incredible supply of precious metals. Everyone has broken, outdated, or rarely worn jewelry that could be brought back into the supply chain, significantly reducing the need for mining. Encourage people to trade their old jewelry for store credit, and educate those who do about the environmental and monetary benefits. Hoover & Strong offers a formula and estimation chart to help jewelers calculate how much to offer for old jewelry. As more people seek environmentally sustainable products, this will help ensure the future of your business.
Conserve energy, water, and fuels. Use compact fluorescent and standard fluorescent light bulbs. Fix drafts to reduce heating and cooling bills. Turn things off when not in use.
Marc Choyt, president of Reflective Images and author of The Ethical Jewelry Handbook, recommends working with organizations that can help you compensate for the carbon you generate. He explains, “You can do this through a number of ways, from tree planting to purchasing carbon offsets.”

Designer Toby Pomeroy, Corvallis, Ore., who pioneered the idea of using precious metals from reclaimed sources, has the option to purchase sustainably generated electricity from Pacific Power. He and Choyt encourage their employees to bike to work, and Pomeroy offers a $25 per month bike-shop credit. Similar incentives could encourage employees to take public transportation.

Control water usage. Never let water run when not in use. Consider keeping a wash bucket in the sink or near your bench instead of running water down the drain to wash each item. If you replace the solution in your ultrasonic cleaner frequently, implement a system with two units. Use the first for pieces straight from the buffer and the second for final cleaning. When the dirty water needs to be changed, replace it with the cleaner water from the second machine. Starting only one new bath will save water and use fewer cleaning agents, said manufacturer Aron Suna to the MJSA Journal.

Reduce toxics and chemical use. Many jewelers have switched to cadmium-free solders and fluoride-free fluxes and are seeking other less toxic alternatives to traditional studio practices. Citric pickle solution, for example, is healthier for the jeweler and the environment than standard pickle solution, although most jewelers report that it works more slowly. “We have been selling quite a bit of citric acid pickle lately,” says Steve Frei of Otto Frei.

Jeweler, author, and educator Charles Lewton-Brain says the simplest thing jewelers can do to lessen their environmental impact is “change practices to reduce chemical loads.” His book, The Jewelry Workshop Safety Report, includes sample chemical inventory and chemical profile sheets as well as a procedure evaluation form and a substitution checklist.

Lewton-Brain recommends analyzing all studio practices, implementing health and safety precautions, and substituting alternatives to reduce risks. He says jewelers should “avoid bombing, reduce cyanide use, and reduce or eliminate solvents.” If solvents are necessary, he recommends ethyl, benzyl, and isopropyl alcohols, as well as acetone, as the safest. “There is no such thing as nontoxic,” Lewton-Brain says. “Toxicity is often dose dependent.”

With all less toxic alternatives, be sure to read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) and use proper ventilation, safety, and disposal procedures. Hazardous waste disposal procedures vary by region. Check with local government and sanitation agencies for information. Reducing chemical use not only saves the environment but also can offer cost savings. Experts suggest jewelers look to other industries to find innovative environmental solutions regarding chemical use and substitution.
Alulis says his company has achieved significant savings by using a cleaner manufacturing process with its newest high speed CNC machines. “We are able to run all of our CNC operations using 100 percent ethanol as a coolant/lubricant,” he explains. Substituting ethanol for the commonly used petroleum lubricants reduces the disposal and refining costs associated with petroleum-based lubricants, plus it evaporates cleanly, eliminating a secondary degreasing step. This less toxic substitution saves the company approximately $10,000 annually.

Reduce and recycle packaging. Reduce the Reduce and recycle packaging. Reduce the size of your packaging, choose recycled packaging products, and ask your suppliers to do the same. Hoover & Strong encourages customers to recycle their boxes by using them for shipping back scrap for refining. Choyt says his company saves money by reusing boxes, including FedEx boxes, and shredding paper for packing. “At first, we had some concern because we imagined that customers might not like to receive jewelry in a used box, so we had a stamp made that says in green ink ‘All Shipping Products Are Recycled.’” Reuse plastic peanuts and other non recyclable packing materials or take them to a retail mailing service such as Mailboxes Etc.

Make it easy for employees to recycle by having the recycling bins easily accessible. For example, put aluminum and plastic bins in the lunchroom and a paper bin by the copier. Many companies purchase recycled paper and reuse the second side of paper for interoffice copies.

Educate yourself and others. Do everything you can to educate yourself on environmental and ethical issues associated with the jewelry industry, as well as the impact of your studio procedures. Use what you learn to educate your customers about ethical and sustainable values and practices.

“The eco movement in the jewelry industry is in its infancy but is growing at an astonishing rate,” says Toby Pomeroy. He estimates that awareness of and interest in eco jewelry at the 2008 JCK Show in Las Vegas was approximately 50 times greater than it was last year. That should be a wake-up call. And it’s very likely that consumers are out in front of the industry on environmental and humanitarian issues. As consumer awareness increases, your efforts to help the planet will also help your business.

deJonghe wins design award

2009-01-03T22:07:00.000-08:00

A pendant designed by Dennis deJonghe, owner of deJonghe Original Jewelry at 470 Broadway, has been named a consumer’s choice for evening wear in a competition sponsored by the American Gem Trade Association together with the Jewelry Consumer Opinion Council.

deJonghe’s design is a platinum pendant set with a 17.06-carat natural Aquamarine, an Iolite and diamonds. It hangs from a strand of freshwater pearls.

According to a report from the opinion council, deJonghe’s piece was one of 120 entries in the evening wear category and evaluated by at least 287 consumers, who liked the pendant the best.

deJonghe will collect his award at a ceremony in Tucson in February.

Happy New Year!!!

2008-12-31T05:59:00.001-08:00

Happy New Year! Thanks to supporters like you, 2008 was a very successful year for us. We were able to exceed our goals and expand our services to our visitors. [You may wish back in the comments box.] Thank you so much!

We wish you a new year filled with peace, joy, and meaning.

With Regards
From Our Team

Subodh Gupta, Damien Hirst and others craft jewellery for a cause

2008-12-29T02:40:00.000-08:00

What would prompt Subodh Gupta, the reigning prince of Indian art, to design jewellery? A good cause—in this case, raising money for the National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children (NSPCC), a UK-based organization dedicated to the welfare of children who have suffered abuse. Participating along with him are Indian-born British sculptor Anish Kapoor, the famous Damien Hirst and a clutch of artists and jewellery designers. Sotheby’s London will be auctioning 10 articles of jewellery, including a ruby and diamond pendant designed by Gupta, a gold enamel ring designed by Kapoor and a silver charm bracelet by Hirst, on 17 December in London. Other lots include earrings, a watch and a pendant from jewellers such as David Morris, Chopard and Theo Fennell.

Sparkler: A diamond and ruby pendant by Subodh Gupta.

According to Joanna Hardy, senior specialist and head of jewellery for the auction house, designing jewellery may be a first for Gupta but it is an old trend among artists—those who have done it earlier include Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali and Georges Braque. “Artists have lent their skill and talent to jewellery making,” she says. “It is a challenge for the artist to make something that stands out, and is also recognizable as their work, and is also wearable.”

The 22-carat gold with enamel ring designed by Kapoor, called Water Ring1, (estimated price £15,000-20,000; around Rs11-15lakh) is similar to the piece he has designed earlier for a London jeweller, and Gupta’s ruby, diamond and black diamond pendant (estimated price £20,000-25,000) like many of his artworks, derives inspiration from an utensil of everyday use in India. According to the auction house’s description, it “recreates the shape of a stainless steel pan in white gold and contrasts it with precious gems, the gems working to elevate this basic cooking utensil to an object of adornment”.
The pieces up for auction are expected to fetch £100,000 and buyers of some of the pieces will also be treated to add-ons such as champagne lunches by the jeweller or a tour of the artists’ studios. The buyers of the Hirst silver charm bracelet, “edition 38 of just 50 (pieces)”, (estimated price £15,000-20,000) will get to tour one of the artist’s London studios.
The artists were approached by the NSPCC for the project. “NSPCC has special relationship with the artists,” says Hardy. “Everyone has been so generous with their time.” For the benefit of potential buyers from India, Hardy points out that the pieces go well with traditional jewellery.

For details on how to bid, visit www.sothebys.com

$1 Million reward for information about Paris jewel theft

2008-12-23T04:17:00.000-08:00

A reward of $1Million (700,000 euro) is being offered to the first person who can provide any lead that aids recovery of jewellery stolen from Harry Winston, Paris.
The reward will be given by insurer Lloyd's of London to the first person, who can provide information leading to the recovery of jewels worth 85 million euros', said a report.

The police are of the opinion that they are dealing with professional jewellery thieves who had meticulously planned their crime and knew the boutique's lay-out well.

Investigators were also trying to figure out whether there are any links between the present theft and the heist on the same shop in October last year.

A group of four thieves - two of them disguised as women- had stolen nearly all the jewels on display at the Harry Winston boutique in Paris earlier this month.

New Shopping Method By DiamondsOnWeb

2008-12-23T04:10:00.000-08:00

To boost the confidence of online shoppers, Diamonds on Web has come with 'Don't pay before you see' option.

In this scheme the customer has to pay for the product once they are satisfied after seeing, touching and inspecting the merchandise. After receiving the product, the customer will have ten days to decide whether they want to purchase the merchandise or return it. The return shipping will be paid for by DiamondsOnWeb.com.

For this plan, the customer only has to have an authorized credit card. The shipping of goods will be taken care of by DiamondsOnWeb.com.

Diamond Facts

2008-09-25T00:39:00.000-07:00

Fact #1:
An estimated 5 million people have access to appropriate healthcare globally thanks to revenues from diamonds.

Fact #2:
Conflict diamonds have been reduced from approximately 4% to considerably less than 1% since the implementation of the Kimberley Process in 2003.

Fact #3:
An estimated 10 million people globally are directly or indirectly supported by the diamond industry.

Fact #4:
The diamond mining industry generates over 40% of Namibia's annual export earnings.

Fact #5:
Diamond revenues enable every child in Botswana to receive free education up to the age of 13.

Fact #6:
In July 2000, the global diamond industry announced its zero-tolerance policy towards conflict diamonds and continues to drive this policy.

Fact #7:
Sierra Leone is now at peace and exported approximately $125 million diamonds in 2006.

Fact #8:
Approximately one million people are employed by the diamond industry in India.

Fact #9:
Approximately $8.5 billion worth of diamonds a year come from African countries.

Fact #10:
More than 99% of diamonds are now from conflict free sources and traded under the UN-mandated Kimberley Process.

Fact #11:
The Diamond Development Initiative was established to improve the working conditions of artisanal miners.

Fact #12:
The revenue from diamonds is instrumental in the fight against the HIV/AIDS pandemic.

Fact #13:
Under the Kimberley Process, rough diamonds can only be exported and imported when accompanied by a certificate from the exporting country.

Fact #14:
The charity Jewelers for Children funds a community based care program for orphaned children in South Africa.

Fact #15:
An estimated 65% of the world's diamonds come from African countries.

Fact #16:
Today, 74 governments and the legitimate diamond industry are all committed and legally bound to eradicating conflict diamonds.

Fact #17:
The diamond industry has introduced a system to help give greater assurances to retailers and to provide consumers with the reassurance that their diamond is from a conflict free source.

Fact #18:
Diamonds account for 33% of the GDP (approximately $3.3 billion) of Botswana. Since independence in 1966, the year before diamonds were discovered in Botswana, GDP annual growth rate averaged 7%.

Fact #19:
Major world leaders - including Nelson Mandela - have cited the importance of diamonds to the lives of African people.

Fact #20:
It is estimated that one million people work in the informal (astisanal) alluvial diamond digging sector.

Fact #21:
Some diamond producing countries are not Kimberley Process compliant.

Fact #22:
In November 2007, 74 governments, leading NGOs, and the World Diamond Council agreed on measures to further strengthen the Kimberley Process.

Fact #23:
At the 2007 Kimberley Process Plenary, the industry committed funds and resources to address challenges faced by countries with a high prevalence of artisanal alluvial mining.

Fact #24:
In August 2007, Turkey was welcomed as a participant in the Kimberley Process.
redi

What Is The DTC or The Diamond Trading Company ?

2008-09-21T21:17:00.000-07:00

The Diamond Trading Company (DTC), part of the De Beers family of companies, is the World’s largest and most effective distributor of rough diamonds.

They sort, value and sell around 40% (by value) of all the uncut diamonds in the World through our offices in London and Kimberley in South Africa and at our Government joint venture operations in Botswana and Namibia.

They are also committed to helping to support the establishment of a sustainable, integrated diamond industry within producer countries where we operate and to further the wider economic goals of the Governments in those countries. Activities include skills development, promotion of producer countries abroad and assistance with diversification initiatives beyond diamonds.

The DTC is also the world’s leading developer and producer of diamond technology and operates a dedicated Research and Development facility.

WHAT IS A KIMBERLEY PROCESS ?

2008-09-19T22:06:00.000-07:00

To prevent diamonds from areas of conflict entering into the legitimate diamond supply chain, diamonds are monitored at every point of the diamond pipeline, from mining through to retail. These monitoring processes are called the Kimberley Process and System of Warranties. The Kimberley Process is a UN mandated system, and today over 99% of all diamonds are certified through the Kimberley Process to be from conflict free sources. Read on to learn more about the Kimberley Process, the System of Warranties and how the diamond industry, governments and NGOs are continuing to work to eliminate conflict diamonds.

Ensuring a Conflict Free Diamond Industry (THE PROCESS)

MINING: After rough diamonds are mined, they are transported to Government Diamond Offices.
EXPORT (KIMBERLEY PROCESS): After arriving at the Government Diamond Offices, the source of the diamonds is checked to ensure it is conflict free. The diamonds are then sealed and placed into tamper resistant containers and issued a government-validated Kimberley Process Certificate, each bearing a unique serial number. There are 74 countries that have implemented the principles of the Kimberley Process and have it enshrined in their national law. Only these countries may legitimately export rough diamonds.
IMPORT (KIMBERLEY PROCESS): Diamonds can only legally be imported into one of the 74 Kimberley process countries. Once diamonds are imported, the government customs office, in conformance with its national procedures, checks the certificate and seals on the container. Any rough diamonds without a government-validated Kimberley Certificate or that are unsealed are turned back or impounded by Customs.
MANUFACTURING/TRADING (SYSTEM OF WARRANTIES): Once a diamond has been legitimately imported it is ready to be traded, cut and polished and set into jewelry. Several companies may be involved in this process. Each time the diamond changes hands it must be accompanied by a warranty on invoices stating that the diamond is not from a conflict source. This is called the System of Warranties. Manufacturers/traders are required to audit these System of Warranties statements on their invoices as part of their annual audit process and to keep records for 5 years.
RETAIL (SYSTEM OF WARRANTIES): Retailers are responsible for ensuring that the diamonds they stock and sell carry a warranty that they are conflict free. Retailers are required to audit these Systems of Warranties statements on their invoices as part of their annual audit process and to keep records for 5 years. The System of Warranties does not require the warranty to appear on the consumer's receipt. But by implementing measures for greater supervision, compliance and accountability, through the System of Warranties, within the diamond trade, consumers can be assured that the diamonds they buy are from sources that are free from conflict. Consumers can ask for assurances from their retailers that their diamond is from sources free from conflict.

The Kimberley Process
Conflict diamonds came to the attention of the world media during the extremely brutal conflict in Sierra Leone in the 1990s. The UN, governments, the diamond industry and non-governmental organizations (such as Global Witness, Amnesty International and Partnership Africa Canada), recognized the need for a global system to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain and thus helping to fund conflict.
They developed an agreement called the Kimberley Process, which requires participating governments to ensure that each shipment of rough diamonds be exported/imported in a secure container, accompanied by a uniquely numbered, government-validated certificate stating that the diamonds are from sources free of conflict

VIEW AN EXAMPLE OF KIMBERLEY PROCESS CERTIFICATE

Under the Kimberley Process, diamond shipments can only be exported and imported within co-participant countries in the Kimberley Process. No uncertified shipments of rough diamonds will be permitted to enter or leave a participant's country. This ring-fences conflict diamonds and as such ensures they are unable to enter the legitimate diamond supply chain and thus, cannot be used for illegitimate purposes.

In November 2002, 52 governments ratified and adopted the Kimberley Process Certification System, which was fully implemented in August of 2003.

Today, 74 governments, in partnership with the diamond industry and NGOs, are committed and legally bound to the UN-mandated process. Kimberley Process participants currently account for well over 99% of the global production of rough diamonds.

Kimberley Process participants undergo periodic reviews, along with peer monitoring to ensure compliance. Furthermore, all rough diamond sales are independently audited, and are also subject to separate governmental regulations. Any country that is found not to be in compliance can be sanctioned by the Kimberley Process.

Kimberley Process Requirements

Each shipment of rough diamonds crossing an international border must be:

Transported in a tamper-resistant container
Accompanied by a government-validated Kimberley Process Certificate

Each certificate must be resistant to forgery, uniquely numbered and describe the shipment's contents
The shipment can only be exported to another Kimberley Process participant country
It is illegal for uncertified shipments of rough diamonds to either be imported or exported by a Kimberley Process participant country
Failure to comply with these procedures can lead to confiscation or rejection of parcels and/or criminal sanctions
If any concerns arise regarding a country's adherence to the Kimberley Process, they are investigated and dealt with at an intergovernmental level

System of Warranties
Under this system, which has been endorsed by all Kimberley Process participants, all buyers and sellers of both rough and polished diamonds must make the following affirmative statement on all invoices:

"The diamonds herein invoiced have been purchased from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations Resolutions. The undersigned hereby guarantees that these diamonds are conflict free, based on personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by the supplier of these diamonds."All members of the trade who provide such assurances should keep records of both their customer warranties and their System of Warranties statements from their suppliers. This flow of warranties in and out must be audited and reconciled on an annual basis by the company's own auditors. If asked for by a duly authorized government agency, these records must be able to prove that the supplier is in compliance with the Kimberley Process.

Failure to abide by the aforementioned principles exposes the member to expulsion from industry organizations. Under the terms of the Kimberley Process, it will be considered a violation to issue a warranty declaration on a sales invoice unless it can be corroborated by warranty invoices received for purchases. Failure to adhere to these principles will prompt investigation and could result in expulsion from the various diamond industry institutions.
View an example of an invoice with a System of Warranties statement. Click here to view example.

Looking Ahead
The Kimberley Process is constantly being reviewed for improvements. This review is currently being undertaken by the international governments who are members of the Process, with input from NGOs, diamond industry experts and other interested parties. The system is continuously reviewed and improvements adopted. A report of these actions are then presented to the United Nations the following month.

In addition to the Kimberley Process and System of Warranties, the diamond industry - along with governments and non-governmental organizations (NGOs) - is taking additional actions to eradicate conflict diamonds. For example, the Diamond Development Initiative aims to find sustainable methods of ensuring that diamonds are mined and distributed for the benefit of local communities and local governments.

WHY ARE CONFLICT DIAMONDS SO FAMOUS ...? THE BEHIND STORY

2008-09-19T21:42:00.000-07:00

Conflict diamonds captured the world's attention during the extremely brutal conflict in Sierra Leone in the late 1990s. During this time, conflict diamonds represented approximately 4% of the world's diamond production. Illicit rough diamonds have also been used by rebels to fund conflicts in Angola, Liberia, Ivory Coast, the Democratic Republic of Congo and the Republic of Congo (also known as Congo Brazzaville).

Following are African diamond producing countries where rebels have used diamonds to fund conflict in the past. These countries are now at peace - with rebels no longer trading in conflict diamonds - and are participants of the Kimberley Process. Scroll down to learn more about its past conflicts and present-day status.

Angola
Democratic Republic of Congo
Liberia
Republic of Congo (also known as Congo Brazzaville)
Sierra Leone

Although the flow of conflict diamonds has been reduced to less than 1%, there is still one African diamond-producing country — Ivory Coast — that is under UN Security Council Resolution to prohibit the extraction and trade in diamonds. This country produces a very low percentage of the world's diamond supply. Scroll down to learn more about the Ivory Coast's situation and current status.

Angola
BACKGROUND :- Angola is situated on southern Africa's Atlantic coast, bordering Namibia, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Zambia. A former colony of Portugal, with a current population of 12.3 million, Angola gained independence in 1975.
Portuguese is the official language of Angola. Average life expectancy is 37 years and the country has a high prevalence of infectious diseases including HIV/AIDS, typhoid, malaria and hepatitis. A particular issue for the country is land mines, laid during the civil war, which continue to blight the countryside and threaten the livelihoods of thousands of inhabitants.
Diamonds were first discovered in Angola in 1912. For the next 40 years, the industry was exclusively based on alluvial diamond mining (mining that extracts diamonds from deposits of sand, gravel and clay, which have been naturally transported by water erosion and deposited along either the banks of a river, the shoreline or on the bed of the ocean). In addition to diamonds, Angola has a range of other natural resources including petroleum, iron ore, phosphates, copper, feldspar, gold, bauxite and uranium. Oil production and its supporting activities contribute about half of Angola's GDP and 90% of exports.

CIVIL WARS AND DIAMONDS :- The country failed to find stability following independence and was thrown into several civil wars between two opposing factions - UNITA and MPLA - for the next 27 years. The conflicts, which cost up to 1.5 million lives, started in 1975 and ended in 2002. During the civil wars in Angola, rebel groups traded diamonds to fund armed conflict (known as conflict diamonds). In response, the UN applied sanctions to ban the rebels' trade in conflict diamonds in 1999.

PRESENT-DAY ANGOLA :- Much of Angola's infrastructure was damaged during the civil war and remains so today, with subsistence agriculture providing the main livelihood for half of the population.

Angola is making significant progress towards long-anticipated elections. Today, conflict diamonds are no longer traded in Angola. Angola is a participant of the Kimberley Process and currently produces approximately 9% of the world's diamonds.

Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC)
BACKGROUND:- The Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) is situated in central Africa, northeast of Angola.

The official language of the Democratic Republic of Congo is French. Average life expectancy is 57 years and the country has a high prevalence of infectious diseases including HIV/AIDS, typhoid, malaria and hepatitis. Natural resources include diamonds, copper, crude oil, coffee and cobalt.

Artisanal mining (small-scale digging by individuals, families and communities using basic equipment, such as sieves and pans) has prevailed in the DRC, encouraged by new laws in 1981 that forced the Société Miniére du Bakwanga (MIBA) to open up the majority of its diamond fields to artisanal diggers.

CIVIL WAR AND DIAMONDS:- A former colony of Belgium with a population of 65.8 million, the DRC gained independence in 1960. Within weeks of independence, the country fell into civil war with Colonel Joseph Mobutu seizing power and proclaiming himself the president. He nationalised the economy and changed the country's name to Zaire.
President Mobutu was overthrown in a subsequent civil war in 1997, in which four million people died, and the country was reverted back to being called the Democratic Republic of Congo. The civil war ended when the warring factions involved signed the Lusaka Accord in 1999. A new constitution was then adopted by the National Assembly in 2005.
During the civil war in the DRC, rebel groups traded diamonds to fund armed conflict. In response, the UN applied sanctions to ban the rebels' trade in conflict diamonds.

PRESENT-DAY DRC:- Elections to form a new government took place in July 2006. This election was the first fully democratic vote in the country in more than 40 years. The economy is expected to improve following the installation of the new government.
Today, international monitoring has demonstrated that diamonds are no longer being used to fund conflict in the DRC. The end of the war in 1999 led to a resurgence of the mining industry, which accounts for most of the Democratic Republic of Congo's exports. The DRC is a participant of the Kimberley Process and currently produces approximately 8% of the world's diamonds.

Liberia
BACKGROUND:- Liberia is situated in western Africa, bordering the North Atlantic Ocean, between the Ivory Coast and Sierra Leone. It has a population of three million. English is the official language of Liberia, but there are 20 other ethnic group languages. Average life expectancy is 39 years, with a 6% AIDS/HIV prevalence. Artisanal mining (small-scale digging by individuals, families and communities using basic equipment, such as sieves and pans) has been used to source diamonds in the Kpo Range of Liberia since the 1950s. In addition to diamonds, the country's resources include iron ore, timber, gold and hydropower.

CIVIL WAR AND DIAMONDS:- The country was embroiled in civil war from 1989 to 2003, destroying much of its economy.

In 2000, the UN officially accused Charles Taylor, president of Liberia, of backing the insurgency in neighboring Sierra Leone by providing arms and training to the Revolutionary United Front (RUF) in exchange for diamonds. In 2001 UN sanctions were imposed on Liberia. Taylor stepped down as Liberian president in August 2003 as part of an internationally brokered peace deal to end the civil war. Taylor went into exile in Nigeria in 2003 and was ultimately transferred to the Netherlands to stand trial in The Hague international criminal court.
Charles Taylor pleaded not guilty to 11 charges of war crimes and crimes against humanity during his first appearance at The Hague on July 21, 2006.

PRESENT-DAY LIBERIA:- Liberia is now at peace. A new president was elected in 2005 with support provided by the UN Mission in Liberia (Ellen Johnson Sirleaf made history as Africa's first elected female head of state). Some of the businessmen who fled the country during the conflict have now returned to set up new ventures, helping to stimulate the economy of this suffering country.

In April, 2007, Liberia was admitted into the Kimberley Process, a unique joint initiative by government, the diamond industry and non-governmental organizations to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain.

Republic of Congo (a. k. a. Congo Brazzaville)
BACKGROUND:- The Republic of Congo is situated in western Africa on the South Atlantic Ocean, bordering Angola, Cameroon, Central African Republic, the Democratic Republic of Congo and Gabon. The official language in the Republic of Congo is French, but others include Lingala and Monokutuba. The current population is 3.8 million, with 70% living in and around the capital, Brazzaville. Average life expectancy in the Republic of Congo is 53 years old and there is a high prevalence of infectious diseases such as malaria, hepatitis A and typhoid.
The economy in the Republic of Congo is based mainly on oil, but export levels were damaged by the civil war. The country's other natural resources include diamonds, petroleum, uranium, copper, gold and natural gas.

CIVIL WAR AND DIAMONDS:- A former colony of France, the Republic of Congo gained independence in 1960. A period of Marxism followed until a democratically elected multi-party government took control in 1992. The Marxists regained power after a civil war in 1997, leading to instability in the nation until rebel groups signed a peace agreement in 2003. The war displaced many people and created a humanitarian crisis, which is still a problem today.

PRESENT-DAY REPUBLIC OF CONGO:- The Republic of Congo was recently investigated by the Kimberley Process - the process developed to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain. The Kimberley Process found that the Republic of Congo had met standards necessary to be re-admitted to the Kimberley Process. It is hoped that through the legitimate trade in the country's diamond resources, benefication to local communities will soon follow.

Sierra Leone
BACKGROUND:- Sierra Leone is situated in western Africa, bordering the North Atlantic Ocean, between Guinea and Liberia. A former British colony with a current population of 6.1 million, Sierra Leone gained independence in 1961.

The economic and social infrastructure of Sierra Leone is not well developed. Nearly half of the population survive by subsistence agriculture, although alluvial diamond mining (mining that extracts diamonds from deposits of sand, gravel and clay, which have been naturally transported by water erosion and deposited along either the banks of a river, the shoreline or on the bed of the ocean) accounts for nearly half of the country's exports and is the most significant source of hard currency earnings.

English is the official language of Sierra Leone but only 35% of its citizens are literate. The average life expectancy is 40 years and AIDS/HIV affects 7% of the population.
Diamonds were first discovered in Sierra Leone in 1930. In addition to diamonds, the country also has several other natural resources - titanium ore, bauxite, iron ore, gold and chromite.

CIVIL WAR AND DIAMONDS:- Between 1991 and 2002, the country suffered a brutal, ten-year civil war during which the Revolutionary United Front (RUF) committed horrendous atrocities, terrorizing the population and gaining control of the country's diamond mines.

Eight years of protracted war left tens of thousands of people displaced and unknown numbers dead or mutilated. Half a million of Sierra Leone's people were forced to flee the country. The UN Security Council established the Mission in Sierra Leone (UNAMSIL) in October 1999 to help restore peace. At its height, UNAMSIL had 17,000 troops and was the biggest UN peacekeeping operation in the world. The Abuja Agreement in 2001 finally led to a reduction of hostilities and by early 2002, tens of thousands of ex-combatants had been disarmed and demobilized. By January of 2002, the civil war was over and Sierra Leone became a democratic country.

In 2000, the UN officially accused Charles Taylor, then president of neighboring Liberia, of backing the insurgency by providing arms and training to the RUF in exchange for diamonds. Taylor stepped down as Liberian President in August 2003 as part of an internationally brokered peace deal to end the civil war in Liberia. Taylor went into exile in Nigeria in 2003 and was ultimately transferred to the Netherlands to stand trial in The Hague international criminal court.( A nice case study)

In 2000, the United Nations Security Council banned both direct and indirect imports of rough diamonds from Sierra Leone to member states in an effort to help stabilize the country and reduce the rebel's access to foreign currency and arms.

Since the end of the civil war in 2002, the diamond industry has provided technical assistance and training to Sierra Leone's Ministry of Mines in setting up the Government Diamond Office - an important step to being part of the Kimberley Process. In 2003 Sierra Leone joined the Kimberley Process, the international agreement developed to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain and provides an assurance that diamonds are from conflict free sources.

PRESENT-DAY SIERRA LEONE:- Sierra Leone is now at peace. Ernest Bai Koroma became president following elections in September, 2007. Today, diamonds represent a resource of crucial importance to the future development of the country. Sierra Leone continues to be a participant of the Kimberley Process and exported approximately $125 million worth of diamonds (approximately 3% of the world's diamonds) in 2006. Revenues from diamond exports are making a positive contribution to the rebuilding of its infrastructure, health services and education systems.

Ivory Coast (also known as Cote d'Ivoire)
BACKGROUND :- Ivory Coast is located in western Africa, bordering the North Atlantic Ocean, between Ghana and Liberia. Ivory Coast was a French colony until it obtained independence in 1960.

The official language of Ivory Coast is French and it has a population of over 17.6 million. Average life expectancy is 48 years. Ivory Coast is among the world's largest producers and exporters of coffee, cocoa beans, and palm oil. Roughly 68% of the population is dependent on agriculture.

CIVIL WAR AND DIAMONDS:- In December 1999, a military coup overthrew the government and since then civil war has plagued the country. The central government still has no control over northern regions and tensions remain high.

During the 1990s following a drop in the price of cocoa the government decided to focus on the mining sector. The new interest in diamond mining coincided with the wars in Liberia and Sierra Leone and affected Ivory Coast's diamond exports, which rose exponentially. Foreign investment companies withdrew due to the political situation.

PRESENT-DAY IVORY COAST:- There is currently a small scale conflict tacking place in the informal diamond digging areas in the north east of the Ivory Coast. There is no official/formal diamond exploration or mining being carried out in Ivory Coast.
Ivory Coast remains under a UN Security Council Resolution (renewed on October 31, 2007) prohibiting the import and export of diamonds. The country is a member of the Kimberley Process but the Government, in alignment with the UNSC Resolution, has itself suspended all official exports of rough diamonds to help support its efforts to restore social stability and ensure systems are in place to met the KP requirements. The Kimberley Process is the process developed to prevent conflict diamonds from entering the legitimate diamond supply chain and provides an assurance that diamonds are from conflict free sources. The Government of Ivory Coast is working closely with the Kimberley Process Secretariat and the UN to successfully overcome various challenges and establish a positive solution.

What Are Conflict Diamonds ?

2008-09-19T21:30:00.000-07:00

Conflict diamonds are diamonds illegally traded to fund conflict in war-torn areas, particularly in central and western Africa. The United Nations (UN) defines conflict diamonds as "...diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, or in contravention of the decisions of the Security Council." These diamonds are sometimes referred to as "blood diamonds."

Today, the flow of conflict diamonds has been reduced to considerably less than 1%.

More than 99% of Diamonds are now from conflict free sources and traded under the united nations mandated- kimberley process.

Clarity Explained

2007-09-05T03:29:00.000-07:00

For the new gem buyer, terms like “VSI” and “eye clean” may at first be somewhat confusing. Below is a list of generally used definitions to describe 'clarity' in gemstones:

Clean – Stones that are free from inclusions.

Eye Clean – Stones that are clean to the naked eye.

Crystal Transparent – These stones are transparent and have excellent brilliance. They might have some minor inclusions, common to that particular gem type, but these do not deter from the rarity and beauty of the stone. The word “crystal” is commonly used in all major global gemstone sources.

VSI (very slight inclusions) - While these stones have some small inclusions, they will not diminish the brilliance and beauty of the stone when set.

SI (slight inclusions) - These stones have some inclusions visible to the naked eye but not to the extent of affecting the brilliance of the stone.

Included/PK (Pique) - These stones have some larger and/or many minor inclusions, somewhat diminishing the brilliance of the stone.

Transparent - Transparent stones allow light to pass through them without diffusing (scattering) the light.

Translucent - Translucent stones allow light to pass through them, but the light is somewhat diffused (scattered).

Links :
FUNNY
WALLPAPER
VIDEOS
TECHNOLOGY

LEAVE YOUR COMMENTS BELOW!!

Gem Care---Looking After Your Gemstone And Jewellery

2007-09-05T03:16:00.000-07:00

Are you paying enough attention to the care of your precious gemstones and jewelry? Unfortunately, most people overlook proper care of their jewelry, resulting in unnecessary devaluation. While specific cleaning techniques exist for different gemstone varieties, some basic tips include:

For its protection, always remove your jewelry when engaging in activities where there is a risk of impact or exposure to chemicals (e.g. sports or housework). If you cannot remove your rings when using strong cleaning products (i.e. Ammonia based), protect your jewelry (and your skin) by wearing rubber gloves. While rings and bracelets are most affected by daily wear, earrings, necklaces and even pendants are subject to chemical damage, especially if worn while make-up, fragrances and hair products are applied.

* If you own pearl or bead necklaces, you should have a jeweler restring them at least every two years (or annually if you wear them frequently).

* Try not to remove your jewelry by pulling on their gemstones. Apart from exposing the stones to sweat, oil and dirt, you also risk loosening the gemstones in their settings.

* Always check for loose gemstones and clasps before wearing your jewelry.

* To avoid your gemstones and metal jewelry scratching each other, never store your jewelry in piles. Alternatively, store them in separate sections of a jewelry box or wrap them separately in velvet, paper or silk.

While some specific cleaning tips for the more common gem varieties are listed below, the safest method of cleaning most jewelry is to use a mild warm soapy water solution and a soft brush, patting dry with a soft cloth.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alexandrite: Clean with soapy water, alcohol or commercially available products. Mechanical cleaners are also acceptable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Aquamarine: Never use chemical cleaners. Avoid heat and overtly frequent cleaning at all costs. Simply use soapy water.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Diamond: While mechanical and chemical cleaners are generally safe, avoid these if your stone is fracture filled or has fractures. Always rinse and dry well when using soapy water.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Emerald: Never use chemical or mechanical cleaners as these methods dissolve the oils used during processing to fill inclusions. Clean with soapy water and have your jeweler re-oil your emeralds annually.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Garnet: The safest method is to simply use a soapy water solution.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jade: While a soapy water solution is the easiest and safest cleaning solution, mechanical cleaners are also safe. Avoid chemical cleaners at all costs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Opal: Wipe after use with a soft dry or slightly damp cloth. Never wash or scrub your opals.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pearl: Wipe after use with a soft dry or damp cloth. Using a soapy water solution is also acceptable.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Peridot: Never use mechanical or chemical cleaners. Simply use a soapy water solution.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ruby: Use soapy water solutions or commercially available cleaning solvents. While mechanical cleaners are generally safe, avoid these if your stone is heavily
included.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sapphire: Use soapy water solutions or commercially available cleaning solvents. While mechanical cleaners are generally safe, avoid these if your stone is heavily included.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Spinel: Use soapy water solutions or commercially available cleaning solvents. While mechanical cleaners are generally safe, avoid these if your stone is heavily included.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tanzanite: Never use mechanical or chemical cleaners. Simply use a soapy water solution.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Topaz: Never use mechanical or chemical cleaners. Simply use a soapy water solution.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tourmaline: Never use mechanical or chemical cleaners. Simply use a soapy water solution.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Links :
FUNNY
WALLPAPER
VIDEOS
TECHNOLOGY

LEAVE YOUR COMMENTS BELOW!!

Get Lucky----Know Your Birthstone

2007-09-05T02:04:00.000-07:00

Birthstones are a fascinating aspect of the gem and jewelry world, and are derived from early beliefs regarding the one’s time of birth and its relationship to the planets. Wearing a certain stone as protection against illness and misfortune, or another gem for good luck, eventually developed into the birthstone systems of today.

Modern Birthstones
(From these early systems, comes the modern birthstone system. )1

Month--------------20th & 21st Centuries------------------------18th to 19th Centuries

January-------------Garnet ---------------------------------------------Garnet
February------------Amethyst -----------------------------------------Amethyst or hyacinth
March---------------Aquamarine or bloodstone ---------------------Jasper or bloodstone
April-----------------Diamond -------------------------------------------Diamond or sapphire
May------------------Emerald --------------------------------------------Emerald or agate
June------------------Pearl, moonstone or alexandrite---------------Pearl,moonstone or alexandrite
July------------------Ruby ------------------------------------------------Turquoise or onyx
August---------------Peridot or sardonyx-----------------------------Sardonyx
September-----------Sapphire ------------------------------------------Peridot
October---------------Opal or tourmaline ------------------------------Beryl or opal
November------------Topaz or citrine ---------------------------------Topaz or pearl
December-------------Turquoise, zircon, lapis lazuli or blue topaz----- Ruby

The Western birthstone system originates from the writings of Jesephus (1st century AD) and St. Jerome (5th century AD). Both trace the custom to the gems of the Hebrew High Priest’s Breastplate. Over time, the birthstone custom died, only to be revived again in 18th-century Poland.

Zodiac Gems

Long before the modern 12-month calendar was invented, astrologers assigned certain gemstones to the 12 signs of the zodiac based on the symbolism and metaphysical powers each stone was believed to possess.

Sign------------------------------------------Zodiac Stone

Capricorn-------------------------------------Ruby
Dec. 22–Jan. 20
Aquarius--------------------------------------Garnet
Jan. 21–Feb. 21
Cancer----------------------------------------Emerald
June 22–July 22
Leo-------------------------------------------Onyx
July 23–August 22
Pisces----------------------------------------Amethyst
Feb. 22–March 21
Virgo-----------------------------------------Carnelian
August 23–Sept. 22
Aries----------------------------------------Bloodstone
March 22–April 20
Libra----------------------------------------Peridot
Sept. 23–Oct. 23
Taurus--------------------------------------Sapphire
April 21–May 21
Scorpio-------------------------------------Beryl
Oct. 24–Nov. 21
Gemini--------------------------------------Agate
May 22–June 21

Indian Planetary Gemology

In ancient India, beliefs regarding the planets and their relationships with stones also is found. This has developed into what some today refer to as “planetary gemology”. In such systems, there are nine planets and nine gems, as shown below. Sometimes jewelry is made using one each of these gems and are termed navaratna jewels (nava = nine; ratna = jewel).

Planet-------------------Hindu Planetary Stone
Sun------------------------------------Ruby
Moon-----------------------------------Pearl
Mars-----------------------------------Coral
Mercury--------------------------------Emerald
Jupiter--------------------------------Yellow Sapphire
Venus----------------------------------Diamond
Saturn---------------------------------Blue Sapphire
Rahu(moon’s north node)----------------Hessonite Garnet
Ketu(moon’s south node)----------------Cat’s Eye

Birthstones for days of the week

Most Latin-based languages connect each day of the week with one of the seven “planets”: Sun, Moon, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. The French, for example, uses the following:

English-------French--------Planet------------Gem

Monday--------Lundi---------Moon--------------Pearl
Tuesday-------Mardi---------Mars--------------Ruby
Wednesday-----Mercredi------Mercury-----------Amethyst
Thursday------Jeudi---------Jupiter-----------Sapphire
Friday--------Vendredi------Venus-------------Carnelian
Saturday------Saturn--------Saturn------------Turquoise
Sunday--------Dimanche------Sun---------------Topaz

Gems for all seasons

Season----------Gem

Spring----------Emerald
Summer----------Ruby
Fall------------Sapphire
Winter----------Diamond

Choosing a birthstone

If nothing else, the above should make clear that there are a bewildering variety of birthstone choices, depending on nationality, culture, religion, etc. Which one is right for you? We suggest that, if none of the above birthstones strikes your fancy, you simply choose a personal gemstone that symbolizes a special time for you. Choose a personal gemstone based on your zodiac sign, the day of the week on which you were born or the color designated for your birth month.

Links :
FUNNY
WALLPAPER
VIDEOS
TECHNOLOGY

LEAVE YOUR COMMENTS BELOW!!