How can you create and save presets in Lightroom?

In this article, I’m going to take you through the simple process, step by step. By the time you’re done, you’ll be able to confidently make presets of your own – and I’ll even show you how to make and apply import presets for high-quality, lightning-fast edits.

Let’s dive right in.

When should you create and apply Lightroom presets?

There are mundane edits in Lightroom that you should carry out on almost every photo.

And you can save time by creating presets that perform these jobs automatically upon import. That way, you don’t have to do editing later.

In other words: I highly recommend you apply presets to pretty much every photo you take.

(You can also apply presets during the editing process, but you’ll want to use these more sparingly.)

The fact is that RAW photos need edits to look good. And presets will help you do those edits faster than a standard editing workflow. Look at this unedited RAW file:

And look at it after applying a simple preset:

That’s what I’m going to teach you how to do in the next section:

Create a simple preset that you can apply upon importing. But note that you can use these instructions to create a preset of any type, whether you plan to apply it on import or not.

How to prepare a useful Lightroom preset: step by step

Now let’s take a look at the simple instructions for making a useful Lightroom preset:

Step 1: Open a photo in the Develop module

Start by selecting the photo you plan to use as your preset base. Open it in the Lightroom Develop module.

Hit the Reset button to zero out any existing settings:

(You may find it helpful to make a Virtual Copy of the photo first so you don’t undo any edits you have already made; you can do this by right-clicking on the image, then selecting Create Virtual Copy.)

Step 2: Set your Profile in the Basic panel

Next, you’ll need to pick a Profile. Think of this as a starting point or base layer, on top of which you’ll make all your edits.

So head up to the Basic panel and click to open the Profile fly-out menu:

Lightroom’s default Profile is Adobe Color, and this is where I often leave my photos – but if you’re a frequent landscape photographer, you might try Adobe Landscape, portrait photographers might try Adobe Portrait, and black and white photographers might try Adobe Monochrome. Really, it’s all about experimenting. Test out a few options and see what you like!

Remember that, even if you save a profile as part of a preset, you can always change it after applying the preset if you decide it doesn’t work for a particular shot.

(Also, note that your Profile options may vary depending on your camera, so if you can’t find one of the options I suggested, don’t worry; you probably have other cool Profiles to try out instead.)

If you shoot a number of different genres or in a number of different styles, or if you simply like several profiles, you might consider creating a preset for each one!

Step 3: Apply profile corrections and remove chromatic aberration

Most shots suffer from slight issues due to lens aberrations. The specifics depend on your lens, which is why Lightroom comes with profiles for a huge number of lenses:

So head down to the Lens Corrections panel and check Enable Profile Corrections:

If Lightroom offers a profile matching your lens’s make and model – and it almost certainly will! – the profile corrections will be applied automatically.

I’d also recommend checking Remove Chromatic Aberration, which will get rid of fringing (which you pretty much always want to do!).

Step 4: Make sure the Basic panel is ready to go

Now it’s time to look at the Basic panel. Make sure the white balance is set to As Shot:

And make sure all the other sliders are zeroed:

If you’re a fan of Lightroom’s automatic settings, you can hit the Auto button. This will automatically set the exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks, along with the vibrance and saturation. I don’t do this myself, but if it’s helpful to you, then go ahead and try it!

Also, if you shoot a mix of color and black and white, consider creating one preset for color photos and a second preset for black and white shots. Simply set the Treatment to Black & White:

Creating a preset in Lightroom

Now it’s time to actually make a Lightroom preset. The process is extremely simple:

Step 1: Click the Create Preset option

Make sure you’re in the Develop module, then click the Plus icon next to the Presets panel:

And select Create Preset:

Step 2: Determine which settings should be a part of your preset

The New Develop Preset window should come up:

Give your preset a name and select a folder to save it in:

Then select the settings you’d like to save as your preset. Hitting Check All works fine if you’re creating the preset I discussed above – though if you’ve decided to create a more targeted editing preset, you may want to only check certain boxes.

Step 3: Hit Create

Finally, once you’re ready to save your preset, press Create:

And that’s it! It’s a simple process that doesn’t take very long and can save you a lot of time when importing or editing your photos.

Applying presets upon import

To apply the preset you just created upon importing your photos, launch the Import window:

Then head over to the Apply During Import panel and set the Develop Settings menu to the appropriate preset:

(This is where creating several presets helps saves time, as you can pick the best preset for the photos you are importing.)

Then, when you click the Import button, Lightroom applies the settings from your selected preset!

Adding copyright info

While you’re in the Import window, it’s worth setting up another preset to automatically add copyright information to photo metadata upon import.

So go to the Metadata menu in the Apply During Import panel and select New.

Lightroom will open the New Metadata Preset window, where you can add information such as your name and copyright details:

So give the preset a name, then click the Check Filled button (so the relevant boxes are checked as you go along):

Under IPTC Copyright, set Copyright Status to Copyrighted and fill in the other fields appropriately (my entries are shown below).

Under IPTC Creator, add your name, website, email address, and any other appropriate details. Personally, I leave out my address – I move around a lot so it’s constantly changing (plus identity theft is a risk).

Click Done when you’re finished. Then, when you import photos, simply select the preset from the Metadata menu:

How to create your own Lightroom presets: your turn

Hopefully, you’re now ready to create Lightroom presets of your own (and you have some ideas for useful presets).

That way, you can save time and speed up your workflow!

Now over to you:

What kind of presets do you plan to create? How do you plan to use them on your photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Create Your Own Lightroom Presets (Step By Step) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

Looking to understand the ins and outs of Photoshop’s Overlay blend mode? You’ve come to the right place.

Overlay is a great way to add punch to otherwise flat images, plus it can be used to apply artistic effects such as color tints. It’s a very versatile blend mode, and it’s pretty popular, too – so it pays to understand what it is, how it works, and when you might want to use it in your photo editing.

Below, we offer a thorough guide to this powerful tool. Let’s get started!

What is Overlay blend mode?

Photoshop – and other layer-based editing programs – offer over two dozen blending modes, which determine how different layers interact. The Overlay blend mode belongs to the “Contrast” section of the blending mode menu, which means that it’ll increase the intensity of the blended layers.

Overlay is actually a mix of two other common blend modes: Screen and Multiply. When Overlay is applied to a layer, Photoshop uses the Screen blending mode to handle any tone that’s brighter than 50% gray. And Photoshop uses the Multiply blending mode to handle any tone that’s darker than 50% gray.

So unlike other Contrast blending modes, it takes effect according to the brightness level of the base layer. In other words, it doesn’t apply some distinct operation to the base color of the layer; instead, it Screens or Multiplies.

That said, if the technical underpinnings of Overlay blend mode are making your head spin, don’t worry. The Overlay effect is easy to understand on a visual level: It makes dark tones darker and bright tones brighter. Look at what happens when I take a normal array of gray tones (below the red line), duplicate the image, and apply the Overlay blend mode (above the red line):

The lightest tones (on the left) got even lighter. And the darkest tones (on the right) got even darker.

When should you use Overlay blend mode?

As I mentioned above, the Overlay blend mode is a mix of two other blending modes – Screen and Multiply – so it’s very versatile. You can use it in all sorts of scenarios, though here are a few of the most common:

• When you want to recover the contrast on a faded vintage picture
• When you want to add contrast to a flat picture
• When you want to add a color tint to a photo
• When working on certain composites (e.g., when adding lighting to a sky)
• When applying certain texture overlays

How to use the Overlay blend mode

Using Overlay isn’t especially difficult. Start by opening an image in Photoshop, then add a second layer.

(Why is this necessary? Remember that blending modes tell Photoshop how layers should interact. Changing the blending mode of a single layer doesn’t have any effect; instead, to see a difference in your image, you need a second layer that can interact with the first.)

The type of layer you add doesn’t really matter. It can be a Smart Object, another picture, a solid color, an adjustment layer, etc.

Next, go to the Layers panel, which should be on the right-hand side of the screen. If you can’t see it, select Window>Layers or press F7.

Select the top layer in the layer stack. Then open the blending modes menu by clicking the down arrow next to the current blending mode:

Navigate to the Overlay blend mode. In Photoshop CC, you can see the blend mode’s effect on your image just by hovering over it. In Photoshop CS6, however, you won’t be able to see the effect until you’ve applied it to your image.

That’s it! If you want, you can adjust the layer’s opacity using the slider next to the blend mode menu.

Overlay blend mode: A step-by-step example

As I mentioned, one of the most common reasons photographers and retouchers use the Overlay blending mode is to add contrast. So that’s what I’ll show you in this example.

My sample photo is a bit underexposed and lacks contrast:

So I’ll click on the Create new fill or adjustment layer button and select Levels. (Alternatively, I could select Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Levels in the menu.)

Without ever touching my Levels adjustment, I can simply change the blending mode to Overlay and watch as the contrast is increased:

But if I want to modify the effect, I can use the Levels sliders to adjust the highlights, midtones, and shadows:

If I like the look but feel it’s too strong, I can always decrease the opacity of the Levels layer:

Note: Once you’re done adding contrast via the Levels panel, you can always add more adjustment layers (Curves, Color Balance, Hue/Saturation, etc.) to fine-tune your image, or you can save it as it is.

Overlay blend mode tips

Enjoying the power of Overlay blend mode? Here are a few extra tips so you can really explore its potential!

1. Try adding a tint to your photo

If you’re looking to add a tint, a texture, or some other type of final color grade, Overlay can be very useful.

For this next image, I wanted to add a blue tone to mimic cyanotype printing:

All I did was convert the photo to black and white. Then I added a Solid Color adjustment layer, chose a nice blue color, and changed the blending mode to Overlay. That’s how I got the effect shown above!

2. Don’t forget about the Hard Light blend mode

Photoshop has several commuted blending mode pairs. With a commuted blending mode pair, you get the same result when applying one blend mode to the top layer as when applying the other blend mode to the bottom layer (and reversing the layer order).

Overlay and Hard Light are commuted blending mode pairs, so if you apply the Overlay blend mode to the top layer, your image will look exactly the same as if you applied the Hard Light mode to the underlying layer before switching the layer order. (Just a useful little tidbit to keep in mind!)

3. Add a cool glowing effect

Here’s a fun technique: You can use the Overlay blending mode to add a glowing effect – sometimes called an Orton Effect – to any photo.

Start by duplicating your original layer. You can do this by dragging the layer over the Plus sign at the bottom of the Layers panel.

Then convert your duplicate layer to a Smart Object. (Simply right-click on the layer and choose Convert to Smart Object from the menu. Alternatively, go to Filter>Convert for Smart Filters.)

Technically, the Smart Object conversion step is optional, but it will allow you to go back and adjust your glow effect later on, which can come in handy.

Now select Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur in the menu, which will open a dialog box where you can set the intensity of the blur (this will directly affect the intensity of the glow effect). Note that there’s no correct blur amount; it depends on the photo and your taste, so you’ll have to use the trial-and-error method.

Once you get a result you like, simply change the blending mode to Overlay, adjust the opacity as needed, and check out your image’s beautiful glow!

Overlay blend mode: final words

I hope you found this guide to the Overlay blend mode useful. As you should now be aware, it’s a helpful blend mode that can be applied in plenty of different situations.

And if you’re not sure whether Overlay might work for a certain scenario, just try it! There’s no harm in experimenting.

How do you plan to use Overlay when editing photos? Do you have any tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Overlay Blend Mode: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Lightroom is a fantastic program that’s designed for fast and efficient editing, but if you make all your adjustments using your mouse, you may notice that each little operation starts to add up – until you’ve spent hours upon hours moving your cursor, clicking the mouse, and more.

Fortunately, Adobe built in plenty of handy Lightroom keyboard shortcuts, all of which aim to make life easier for photographers and photo editors. Below, I share a few of the most critical shortcuts, which will allow you to speed up your workflow, improve your editing efficiency, and even access hidden features.

Ready to become a Lightroom shortcut expert? Then let’s dive right in, starting with:

1. Reveal all shortcuts

Lightroom offers dozens of shortcuts, many of which are difficult to remember – especially if you don’t use them often.

Fortunately, you can always tap Ctrl/Cmd+/, and a list will pop up that displays all of the shortcuts available in the current module. Therefore, if you’re working in the Library module, this shortcut will reveal the Library module shortcuts:

And if you’re working in the Develop module, this shortcut will reveal the Develop module shortcuts:

(Once you’re done with this article, I highly recommend you head into Lightroom and read through the shortcuts available for both the Library and Develop modules. You’re practically guaranteed to learn something new!)

When you’ve finished checking out your shortcut options, click anywhere on the list to hide it.

2. Tap “R” to access the crop function

This shortcut is a simple one, but it’s a big timesaver. Whenever you need to crop an image, simply head into the Develop module, then hit the R key. The crop overlay will immediately appear:

And you can get to work cropping your file!

Additionally, if you don’t like the direction of the crop overlay, just tap X, then watch as it’s rotated:

This can be especially useful if you’re trying to crop a portrait image with a landscape aspect ratio and vice versa because Lightroom automatically creates crop overlays that match the orientation of the image file.

3. Use the “/” key to resample the image

Lightroom has several healing modes, all of which can be accessed with the Q key. Each of these modes approaches the healing process – which replaces content from the image by sampling content from elsewhere in the image – differently.

The wonderful thing about the Lightroom Healing tool is that it’s quite good at guessing which part of the image it should sample to create a natural-looking result. It’s a great way to correct dust spots, unwanted facial blemishes, and distracting dirt or rocks on the ground around your subject.

However, despite the Healing tool’s impressive capabilities, it doesn’t do a perfect sampling job all the time. That’s where this shortcut comes in handy!

Start by selecting one of the healing modes and clicking on your image. If you don’t like the sampling choice, just press the / key, and Lightroom will choose a different area of the image to sample. You can repeat this as often as you like until you get a satisfactory result!

For this next (zoomed-in) image, I wanted to get rid of this distracting dark blob in the background:

However, Lightroom’s first guess didn’t really work:

I hit the shortcut key, Lightroom resampled the image, and the result was much better:

Pro tip: If you keep resampling the image and you can’t do any successful healing, you can always sample the file manually by using your cursor (though this does take longer than using the shortcut).

4. Use the “Shift” key to set the white and black points

RAW files often appear a bit flat, and an easy way to add some pop is by carefully setting a white and a black point – that is, by adjusting the Whites slider until the brightest tones stretch to the right side of the histogram, and by adjusting the Blacks slider until the darkest tones stretch to the left side of the histogram.

The process of setting the white and black point can be arduous – unless you know a handy little shortcut!

Normally, if you double-click on the Whites and Blacks sliders in the Basic panel, Lightroom resets them to zero. But if you hold Shift while double-click on these sliders, Lightroom calculates where to position both sliders so that the histogram stretches all the way from the left side of the graph (shadows) to the right (highlights):

This quick fix makes most photos look better right away!

5. Use the apostrophe key to invert a Linear Gradient

Lightroom offers an array of local adjustment tools, including the Brush, the Radial Gradient (formerly known as the Radial filter), and the Linear Gradient (formerly known as the Graduated filter).

The Linear Gradient allows you to apply natural-looking adjustments to a portion of the image, such as the sky or the foreground of a landscape, without modifying the rest of the scene. Normally, you would create a Linear Gradient (you can tap Shift+W to open the Masking panel), then drag it over the foreground or sky of your shot as you see fit.

But what if you want to reverse the direction of the effect? Just press the apostrophe key – ‘ – and the Linear Gradient will flip!

Here’s a great way to use this shortcut:

1. Create a Linear Gradient over the sky of a landscape. Drop the Exposure slider to darken that area.
2. Right-click on the Gradient’s pin. Select Duplicate to create a new Linear Gradient with the same settings as the first.
3. Press the apostrophe key to flip the Gradient. The negative Exposure setting will be applied to the foreground, but you probably don’t want to make the foreground darker; instead, double-click the Exposure slider to return it to zero.
4. Now you’re ready to use this new Linear Gradient to enhance the foreground. Boost the Clarity slider to emphasize foreground texture. You might also subtly darken the foreground by dropping the Exposure slider (which will help retain a sense of drama and depth).

Once you’ve made all the above adjustments, you’ll have a beautiful file modified by two Linear Gradients!

Lightroom keyboard shortcuts: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to head into Lightroom, create some stunning edits, and speed up your workflow with these handy shortcuts.

So what are you waiting for? Get post-processing!

Now over to you:

Which of these keyboard shortcuts do you plan to use? Do you have any favorite shortcuts we missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 5 Lightroom Keyboard Shortcuts Everyone Should Know appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

Photo editing is one of the most effective ways to give your photos a refined, professional look, but desktop editors can be frustratingly inconvenient for photographers (and expensive, too!).

Fortunately, smartphones and tablets now offer access to an impressive range of outstanding editing apps. Many of these tools are powerful, easy for beginners to grasp, and free to download. The best photo-editing apps are wildly convenient, too; you can use them to dramatically improve your shots while riding the bus, flying on a plane, or lounging in front of the couch.

The sheer number of options can be overwhelming, however – and that’s where we come in. Below, introduce you to our 15 favorite editing apps, including options for beginners, advanced users, and everyone in between. We also break down the process of choosing the perfect app for your photo-editing needs.

Ready to enhance your photos with a top-notch editing app? Let’s dive right in!

The best photo-editing apps for general editing

In this section, you’ll discover the best photo-editing apps for general adjustments. With the apps on this list, you can adjust exposure, enhance colors, crop, sharpen, and more.

1. Snapseed

• Our Award: Best free photo-editing app
• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Snapseed is one of the most popular photo-editing apps on the market – and for good reason. It’s very intuitive and easy to use, which makes it perfect for beginners. At the same time, Snapseed offers a lot of control for more skilled users thanks to features such as selective editing, curves, perspective correction, and much more.

You don’t need to pay any fees for using Snapseed, nor are there in-app upgrades; it’s completely free. So if you’re after a beginner-friendly photo editor that can do pretty much anything, Snapseed is a great choice.

2. Lightroom

• Our award: Best paid photo-editing app
• Cost: Free limited version; paid version requires an Adobe subscription ($9.99)
• Availability: iOS and Android

Most photographers have heard of Adobe Lightroom, one of the most popular editing programs in the world. But Adobe also offers Lightroom Mobile, which is a mostly full-featured mobile version of the powerful desktop editor – and as you might expect, it packs quite a punch.

You don’t need to pay to download the app, and the limited free version does allow you to do most basic editing tasks, so if you’re just looking for a basic editor, you may never want – or need – to upgrade.

For more folks hoping to really dive into photo editing, however, we do recommend upgrading to a paid plan. There are several options, all of which offer access to the Lightroom Mobile app, one or more Adobe desktop apps – such as Lightroom or Photoshop – and cloud storage so you can seamlessly edit on several devices.

The paid plan offers a wide variety of additional features, including a healing brush, selective adjustments, geometry tools, batch editing, RAW editing, and perspective corrections. (Note: If you want to use Lightroom Mobile to speed up your workflow, check out this article.)

3. Photoshop Express

• Our Award: Best editing app for beginners
• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Adobe Photoshop is the industry standard for photo editing. Its mobile version is divided into three smaller and specialized apps; the basic editor is Photoshop Express.

Photoshop Express offers one-touch solutions such as an auto-fix option and filters. It also allows you to edit and retouch with total control. And it’s packed with many fun features such as stickers and collages.

You can crop to most platforms’ formats and share directly from the app. While you don’t need an Adobe subscription to use Photoshop Express, you will need a free account.

4. Pixlr

• Our Award: Best advanced editing app
• Cost: Limited version for free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Pixlr is a well-rounded editing app, offering all the post-processing essentials plus tons of presets and features to unleash your creativity.

There’s no need to create an account and you can download Pixlr for free, though you’ll be offered in-app purchases for overlays and stickers.

Pixlr also offers two great browser versions that you can use for free – or you can get a subscription for full access to both browser versions and other useful assets.

Best photo-editing apps for fun and filters

In this section, I’ll share the best photo-editing apps for filters and effects.

(In most cases, these apps also include a camera and some basic adjustment tools.)

5. VSCO

• Our Award: Best filter app
• Cost: Free limited version; $19.99/year for the full version
• Availability: iOS and Android

VSCO works as a general photo editor, but it belongs in the fun and filter category thanks to its artsy, social-media-focused features.

To use VSCO, you will need to create a (free) account. After that, you can continue to use VSCO for free, but most of the filters are sold separately.

Alternatively, you can grab a yearly subscription for $19.99 that includes 200 filters (and you have a 7-day trial to make sure it’s worth it).

Your creations can then be shared with the community, which is like- and comments-free. In other words, the VSCO community is more about the quality of the work. You can also share VSCO creations directly from the app to other social networks such as Instagram or Snapchat.

6. Prisma Photo Editor

• Our Award: Best artistic editing app
• Cost: Free limited version or free 3-day trial. Full version is $29.99/year.
• Availability: iOS and Android

Prisma is designed for art lovers. It’s more than just filters; Prisma uses artificial intelligence to turn your photos into artworks inspired by the greatest artists in history. And unlike other apps, Prisma adds new filters every day.

General editing is also possible (as it is with most filter apps). Though I do miss the rotation tool to correct the horizon if needed.

7. PicsArt Photo Editor

• Our Award: Best all-around editing app
• Cost: 7-day free trial, then $34.99/year.
• Availability: iOS and Android

PicsArt Photo Editor is one of the most versatile editing apps on the market. You have a powerful in-app camera, plus tools and presets to no end. You can do anything with PicsArt, from professional applications like time-lapse photography to fun stickers and drawings.

PicsArt Photo Editor also has social media integration, as well as thematic contests that will spark your creativity.

8. A Color Story

• Our Award: Best app for Instagrammers
• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

A Color Story is the perfect app to manage your Instagram account. You can do some basic editing and apply filters to your images and videos.

New filter collections based on current trends are added often, although most do need to be purchased separately.

You can even plan your Instagram feed with the Grid feature. In fact, you can use this just to see how the feed looks after each picture you add, or you can connect it to your Instagram account for scheduling posts. That’s why A Color Story is great for maintaining a unified Instagram feed – whether you are a photographer, influencer, or community manager.

9. Afterlight Photo Editor

• Our Award: Best app for digital imaging
• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Afterlight boasts 59 filters, 66 textures, and 77 frames for you to transform your images in a single click. Some of these tools are offered for a small fee, but there is also a wide variety of free, high-quality effects to choose from.

Afterlight can also handle basic editing tasks; the app has 15 tools to make most of the adjustments you’ll need.

The Crop tool is also quite versatile; it allows you to straighten, flip, and crop freehand and to many standard ratios.

10. Photo Lab Picture Editor

• Our Award: Best editing effects app
• Cost: 3-day free trial, then $9.99/year or $4.99/month.
• Availability: iOS and Android

Photo Lab is full of filters and effects; you can have fun or do some professional-looking work. You can even turn your photos into cartoons, and you can swap faces and make collages.

Photo Lab is an app designed to give free rein to your creativity. It’s also a social app with a big community of followers that’ll help you stay inspired.

Best apps for specialized editing

If you’re looking for the best photo-editing apps with dedicated features, this is the list for you:

11. Foodie

• Our Award: Best editing app for food photographers
• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Although it has all the standard photo-editing tools, Foodie is designed primarily for food photography.

You can use Foodie’s in-app camera to take pictures (and you’ll get a live view of your selected filter). There are plenty of food filter series, including Fresh, BBQ, Yum, and more.

Once you’ve chosen a filter, you can compose your image using the smart grid. For flat lays, you’ll get a yellow band across the edges of the screen when the camera is perfectly level.

Foodie is only missing one key editing feature, but it’s a big one: a crop tool. You’ll either need to compose well from the beginning or have another photo editor on hand to deal with any cropping.

12. SKRWT

• Our Award: Best app for perspective correction
• Cost: $1.99
• Availability: iOS and Android

If you like photographing architecture, real estate, or urban scenes, then you’re going to love SKRWT.

It’s a dedicated distortion-correction app, plus it has a powerful auto-cropping feature to ensure you get the best results.

And it corrects lens distortion regardless of whether the image was taken with an interchangeable lens camera, a GoPro, or your smartphone.

13. TouchRetouch

• Our Award: Best app for removing objects
• Cost: $2
• Availability: iOS and Android

Removing unwanted objects from a photo is something we all have to deal with, no matter the genre of photography.

With TouchRetouch, you can use brush and lasso tools to select an object for removal. And if you’re removing a line (e.g., telephone wires in the background), you just need to tap; it will automatically be selected and removed.

TouchRetouch also has a clone tool, plus a feature called Quick Fix to remove blemishes. Many apps offer some kind of healing brush, but as a specialized app, TouchRetouch will get you the best results.

14. Motionleap

• Our Award: Best cinemagraph app
• Cost: Free limited version, or one of three paid choices: $3.50/month, $18/year, or a one-time purchase of $55.
• Availability: iOS and Android

Have you seen pictures where everything is motionless – except for the water running or the coffee steam coming out of a cup? They’re called cinemagraphs, and Motionleap lets you create that effect with just a few taps and swipes.

You can also add filters, do some basic adjustments, and apply overlays. Keep in mind that the free version won’t let you export your projects and you won’t have all the tools available, so it’s worth considering a paid subscription.

15. Canva

• Our Award: Best editing app for graphics
• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

If you use your photography for marketing purposes, then Canva is the app for you. It offers enough graphic design templates to fit your every need.

From creating an eye-catching Facebook post to designing an entire menu, Canva is intuitive and easy to use.

Many templates are free, though others must be purchased separately. Canva also has a browser version so you can access your projects on your computer, too.

How to pick the perfect app for editing photos

Editing apps can vary a lot in their tools and features, so before you go downloading or purchasing an editor, make sure that it suits your needs. When choosing an app for post-processing, there are five key factors we recommend you consider:

Ease of use and interface

Photography should be fun, right? That goes for editing, too. It’s crucial that the app you choose has a user-friendly and intuitive interface. If you’re a beginner, this is especially important. There are many simple and enjoyable apps out there, but others can be complicated and convoluted.

Therefore, if you’re not tech-savvy or don’t have experience with photo editors, we really recommend you pick a simple app that offers a basic design. Some come with helpful tutorial sections or walkthroughs; these are great for beginners as they’ll help you navigate the app and use the tools effectively.

If you’re an experienced photo editor, a confusing interface might not be such a hindrance, so you may want to focus less on the app interface and more on its advanced features. But remember: Every app is unique. It’s often worth your time to test out different ones.

Fortunately, most of the apps in this list are free. And even the ones that aren’t free do tend to offer trials or demo versions. So go ahead and get your hands on a few. Take them for a spin. See how comfortable they feel before you make a commitment.

Editing features

Every photo editor is different; each comes with its unique set of features, and it’s important to find one that can do what you want it to.

Are you a hobbyist or a beginner? Then you might be looking for an app that provides basic editing features, such as cropping, rotating, adjusting brightness, contrast, and saturation. Don’t forget filters, either, which can be great fun to experiment with (and can dramatically increase your editing speed).

On the flip side, maybe you’re more of an enthusiast or a pro. In that case, you might want more advanced editing features. You’ll want to look for things like layering, text addition, object removal, and masking.

Also, if you’re looking for an easy-to-use app that’ll speed up your workflow, consider an editing app with AI tools. These apps are designed to automate the editing process and can be a lifesaver if you’re dealing with a lot of photos.

One more thing: If your main goal is to accomplish one form of precision editing, consider a specialist editing app. Several of the apps on our list focus on specific types of edits, such as perspective correction or object removal – and while they can only make one adjustment, they do an excellent job.

Key accessories

The core purpose of an editing app is, well, editing. But you shouldn’t forget about the extras. These are the features that go beyond editing but can be useful for photographers and photo editors.

Some editing apps, for instance, come with built-in cameras. You can use these to shoot and edit all in one place.

And then there’s image organization. It’s not the most exciting part of photography, but it’s important. Some apps let you organize your image library with tools such as folders, ratings, and keywords.

Cloud-storage integration can also be a game-changer, especially if you like to edit on multiple devices. This feature ensures that you can do your main editing on your desktop, then switch to your phone or tablet for editing on the go, then to your laptop for editing on the job, and so on.

And last but not least, let’s discuss exporting and sharing. Some apps let you export in certain handy file formats and share directly to social media platforms, which can be a massive time-saver.

So when you’re choosing your editing app, remember to consider these additional features. They might not be essential, but they just make your life a lot easier.

Compatibility and performance

Most of the best apps for photo editing are available for both iOS and Android devices, but a few are tailored for one type of device. It’s critical to pick an app that’s a match for your smartphone or tablet.

Before you get too excited about a specific app, take a good look at the versions available. And even if the app does have Android and iPhone versions available, keep in mind the features can differ across platforms. So if you’re checking out reviews, be sure they’re for the version you’re planning to download.

Lastly, let’s talk about performance. Some apps can be quite demanding, and whether your smartphone or tablet can run it effectively depends on a variety of factors. Checking out the system requirements beforehand will save you from any unexpected crashes and frustration.

Price

Photo-editing apps range from absolutely free to relatively expensive, and their pricing models vary, too. Some can be purchased with a one-time payment. Others require a subscription.

Generally, more expensive apps come with a wider range of features. But don’t think pricier is always better. Some of the apps listed in this article offer top-notch features and cost nothing at all.

Before making a big purchase, ask yourself if you’re really going to use those advanced features. Maybe a free or less expensive app will do just fine. And don’t forget to check for free trials. It’s always a good idea to test out a paid app before committing to it.

The best photo-editing apps: final words

In the end, the ideal photo-editing app should be a perfect fit for you. It should feel comfortable to use and have everything you need to achieve your vision. Above all, it should take your photos to the next level!

So when picking the best app to edit photos, don’t rush. Explore different apps. Take advantage of those free trials. Experiment with various tools. And if you can’t decide, remember that you don’t need to pick just one; you can use two apps, three apps, or more to improve your editing workflow.

Now over to you:

Do you like any other photo-editing apps? Are there apps that should be added to this list? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The best image-editing apps FAQ

The post 15 Best Photo-Editing Apps in 2024 (+ Buying Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Multiply is one of Photoshop’s most popular blend modes. If you’ve ever followed the steps in a Photoshop editing tutorial, you’ve probably used it yourself, and if you’ve ever watched a Photoshop expert apply edits to their work, you’ve probably seen it in action.

But why is Multiply so common? What makes it such a popular choice among Photoshop artists and photographers? It’s because the Multiply blend mode is very versatile; it can be used to create all sorts of interesting effects.

In this article, I offer a comprehensive overview of Photoshop’s Multiply blend mode. I discuss what it is and how you can use it, plus I offer a step-by-step tutorial so you can see it in action.

Let’s dive right in.

What is Multiply blend mode?

As you probably know, Photoshop allows you to work with layers. And on each layer, you can put different elements: text, an image, an adjustment, and so on.

Now, Photoshop’s blending modes allow you to change how a layer interacts with the layers underneath. The blending modes are divided into categories (you’ll see a line dividing each category in the blending mode menu).

One of these blending mode categories is Darken, which includes the mode featured in this article, Multiply. As the name of the category suggests, by applying a Darken blend mode, you darken the overall file.

In the case of Multiply, the image is darkened by multiplying (hence the name) the color values from one layer by the layers underneath.

Don’t worry about the math, though. Photoshop takes care of that! What you need to know is that multiplying any layer by a black layer will create a black image, and that multiplying any layer by a white layer will cause the white layer to disappear. However, if you multiply a midtone layer by another midtone layer, you’ll end up with a combination of the two layers – but as darker versions of themselves.

When should you use Multiply blend mode?

The answer to this question is very straightforward: You should use Multiply blend mode when you want to darken your image.

What does this mean in practical terms? Here are a few common cases in which you might apply Multiply:

• When you want to recover faded color from vintage photographs
• When you’re fixing an overexposed image
• When you want to include a shadow on a cutout
• When you want to color under a traced drawing so that the lines remain black

Of course, there are plenty of other uses for Multiply, so don’t feel restricted by my list; these are just some scenarios to keep in mind.

How to use Multiply blend mode

The Multiply blend mode is very easy to use! Here’s how it works:

First, open any image in Photoshop. It’ll become the base layer (by default, it’ll appear as a locked layer called “Background”).

Next, add a second layer. The layer type doesn’t matter; just do what works for your file. It can be a text layer, an adjustment layer, etc. I’ve used a raster layer that contains this image:

By default, the layer will completely cover the original layer beneath it.

Next, go to the Layers panel. (If you can’t see this, you’ll need to open it. To do so, simply choose Window>Layers or press the F7 key on your keyboard.)

Toward the top of the Layers panel, you’ll find the blending options. You should see the blend mode on the left and the opacity on the right. By default, any layer will be set to Normal blend mode at 100% – but to use the Multiply blend mode, just click on the arrow next to the word “Normal” to open the drop-down menu:

Find “Multiply” on the list. (Remember, you’ll always find it in the Darken section of the menu.) If you’re using Photoshop CC, you’ll see a preview as you hover over the Multiply option – but in Photoshop CS6, you’ll need to actually click to apply the mode before you can see the effect.

Now click on the arrow next to the percentage value to open the Opacity slider. Simply drag the handle of the slider to adjust the layer opacity. You can also input a value directly:

Note: If these options aren’t enabled, it might be because your layer is blocked. Make sure your layer is selected and visible!

Do keep in mind that you need a layer underneath for the Multiply blend mode to have an effect. If you have a single layer and you change the blend mode from Normal to Multiply, you won’t see any difference. (The same is true if the layer underneath is a pure white background!)

Multiply blend mode: a step-by-step example

As I mentioned above, one of the common uses of Multiply blend mode is to fix an overexposed photograph. That’s what I’ll do for my example image:

I’ve already opened my image on a new layer, so I’ll start by adding a Curves adjustment layer. You can do this by clicking on the “Create a new fill or adjustment layer” button at the bottom of the Layers panel:

Without making any adjustments in the Curves properties panel, I’ll simply change the blending mode to Multiply, and the image will immediately darken:

You can already see the difference, but if you want, you can also make some adjustments to the Curves layer:

After adjusting the curve, it’s clear that the darker areas have become too dark. So I’ll lower the opacity a bit:

In my opinion, the brightest areas are too bright, so I’ll duplicate the Curves layer. (Duplicating a layer preserves its blending mode settings; in this case, my duplicate Curves layer is still in Multiply mode at 90% opacity.)

But I don’t want to darken the entire shot – just the too-bright areas – so I’ll fill the layer mask with black so that the second multiply effect isn’t visible. Then, using a white brush, I’ll paint over the brightest areas to reveal the darkening effect.

Here’s a before and after comparison:

Multiply blend mode tips

Here are a few quick tips so you can fine-tune the Multiply effect according to your needs:

1. Try using Blend If

The Blend If feature allows you to adjust how layers blend according to their content.

For example, let’s say that the shadows of my image turn out too dark due to the Multiply mode. I can use Blend If to tell Photoshop to blend my top layer only with the brightest parts of the base layer. That way, I can darken the highlights without losing details in the shadows.

You can find the Blend If feature inside the Layer Style dialog box. To reach this, go to the Layers panel. Then double-click on the layer that you want to adjust. (Make sure you click in the blank space next to the layer’s name. Otherwise, you’ll open a different menu or feature!)

The Layer Style box will pop up, and you should then find the Blend If section. Here, you’ll see two gradients; the top one refers to the layer on which you’re working, and the bottom one refers to the layer underneath.

Simply click and drag the handles along these gradients to modify the blending effect. Note that each handle has a line in the middle, which allows you to split the handle and create a smoother transition. To do this, simply hold the Alt/Opt key and drag along the handle!

2. Use Multiply with brushes

The Multiply blend mode is not only available for layers; it can also be used with brushes. All you need to do is select the Brush tool, then head to the Options bar at the top of the screen.

Then open the Blend drop-down menu (next to the word “Mode”). Scroll down and click on Multiply:

Then go ahead and paint with your brush! Whatever you paint will interact with the layer underneath by following the Multiply blend mode rules.

Multiply blend mode: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about using the Multiply blend mode, so go ahead and try it out! See what you can create, and have some fun experimenting with different effects.

Note that, while I talked about using the Multiply blend mode in Photoshop, you’ll also find this effect in other editing programs that work with layers. And in most cases, it’ll behave in the exact same way!

How do you plan to use Multiply? Do you have any tips or tricks that I didn’t discuss in the article? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Multiply Blend Mode: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

White balance. It’s a term that’s thrown around a lot in the world of photography, yet it’s unfortunate how many photographers are left scratching their heads when trying to explain or understand it.

Because here’s the thing: if you want to capture a scene as the human eye perceives it, then white balance should be on your radar. Mastering white balance, both during your shoot and in post-processing, can be the key to more natural-looking photos.

Therefore, in this article, I’m going to share everything you ever wanted to know about white balance, including:

• The white balance camera settings you should use for consistently good results
• How white balance can instantly improve your shots
• How you can use white balance for gorgeous creative effects in your photos

I’m also going to explain key related terms, such as color temperature, white balance presets, and more.

And I promise you: by the time you’ve finished this article, you’ll be an absolute WB expert! Let’s get started.

What is white balance in photography?

White balance refers to the process of removing or neutralizing color casts in your images – because at its core, white balance is about ensuring the colors in your photograph appear as they do in real life.

You see, different light sources emit light with various temperatures and/or tints. Ever noticed how a photo taken under fluorescent lighting sometimes has a blueish hue? Or how shots by candlelight can seem overly warm or yellow? That’s the effect of these different light sources on your images.

Since photographers often want to produce images that look natural, white balancing involves carefully adjusting your camera settings or editing tools to counteract these color casts. It’s about taking an image like this, full of distorted, too-blue colors:

And adding warm colors until you balance out the color cast, so you get a final result like this:

You might be wondering: If lights have such strong color casts, how come I never notice them?

It’s a good question with a simple answer: human eyes are pretty good at correcting for color casts in real time, but a camera captures the subject as it looks in life. Sometimes, the subject will have neutral tones, but other times it’ll be very blue (as in the pear photo above) and sometimes very yellow (as in the pear photo below). In both the blue and the yellow cases, white balancing is necessary to create a neutral image.

Here’s a too-yellow pear photo, which requires significant cooling during the white balancing process:

Note that, during white balancing, you’re adjusting the colors along two spectrums:

• The blue-yellow spectrum, also known as the color temperature
• The green-magenta spectrum, also known as the color tint

In general, natural light only requires correction along the blue-yellow spectrum, but certain types of artificial lighting may produce a noticeable color tint, in which case you’ll need to correct for that, too.

Color temperature explained

The bulk of white balancing in photography consists of color temperature correction. You’re correcting for a cast produced by the color temperature of the light, which lies along the blue-yellow spectrum.

Think of it this way: some light sources exude a more yellowish glow, while others lean towards a bluish hue. When we encounter the former, it’s termed a “warm” color temperature. Conversely, the bluish tint signals a “cool” color temperature.

Photographers refer to different color temperatures using the Kelvin scale. Warmer color temperatures, such as those produced by a candle flame or a setting sun, have a low Kelvin value, such as 3000 K. Neutral color temperatures, such as midday sunlight, have a medium Kelvin value – around 5000 K. And cooler color temperatures, produced by clouds or shade, have a high Kelvin value of 6000 K and beyond.

Cooler light has a high Kelvin value? Warmer light has a low Kelvin value?

Yes, you read that right, and it can be confusing, especially if you’ve never encountered the color temperature scale before. But you’ll get used to it over time (and it can help to think of the color temperatures as simply the opposite of what you’d expect).

Why is white balance important?

Color casts cause a couple of problems in photography.

First, they prevent you from capturing accurate, true colors in a scene. If you want to photograph a beautiful red sunset exactly as it appears to your eye, you’ll need to neutralize any color casts; otherwise, your image won’t match the real-life conditions you experienced.

This can also be an issue if you’re doing product photography or real-estate photography, where the goal is to portray the subject as true to life as possible.

Second, color casts tend to look bad. They can mess with portrait skin tones, they can create muddy shadows and sickly highlights, and they can create unwanted moods in your photos.

As I explain later in this article, you can use a color cast for creative effect – but it’s important that you do this carefully and deliberately, rather than as a failure to properly white balance a scene. Make sense?

The two white balancing methods

You can adjust the white balance of your images in two broad ways:

1. In camera, before taking a shot
2. Afterward, in post-processing

Both approaches can work, but there are some important caveats to keep in mind:

In-camera white balancing

Most cameras allow you to adjust your white balance settings before ever taking a photo.

For instance, you can select a white balance preset (such as Tungsten, Flash, Cloudy, etc.), which allows your camera to roughly understand and compensate for the lighting conditions.

Some cameras also allow for a custom white balance. Here, you simply dial in a Kelvin value (remember the color temperature scale I shared above?). A high Kelvin value will balance out cooler light and a low Kelvin value will balance out warmer light.

Your camera may even be capable of white balancing off a gray card. Put the gray card in front of your camera, select the right function in the menu, take a picture, and – voila! – your camera will create an accurate color temperature profile of the scene.

But while these white balance options allow you to handle color casts in the field, they come with some drawbacks:

1. Unless you’re in an enclosed environment, the light will likely change over the course of your shoot. You’ll need to periodically update your white balance preset or redo the gray card process as the sun goes behind clouds, as it sets, etc.
2. White balance presets, while easy to use, are only approximate. They often won’t produce a perfect result.
3. If you’re shooting action from a distance, taking a gray card reading is impossible.

That’s why some photographers prefer a different method of white balancing:

White balancing while editing

White balancing in post-processing is pretty simple:

Just set your camera to its Auto White Balance function when out shooting.

Then, when you get back home, open your photos in your editing program of choice.

Most editors offer a similar process, which involves using the white balance eyedropper to identify a neutral tone and fine-tuning via the Temperature and Tint sliders. (Below, I give a step-by-step process for white balancing photos in Lightroom.)

You can white balance each photo individually, or you can create a white balance adjustment for one (or a handful) of photos, then sync the adjustment across the entire set.

After-the-fact white balancing is nice, but like in-camera white balancing, there are a few points you need to keep in mind.

1. You’ll need to set aside extra time in post-processing to do your white balancing. And while you can save time with batch processing and presets, if you’re capturing lots of images under different lighting conditions, you may prefer the relative ease of in-camera white balancing.
2. Unless you take photos with a gray card in the frame, you may struggle to get a perfect white balance result with editing. In many cases, that’s fine – the color cast may be barely perceptible – but if you’re photographing products, your client may require literally perfect colors.
3. For complete white balancing flexibility in editing, you must shoot in RAW. While JPEGs allow for some white balance adjustments, you’ll be limited an often-unacceptable amount – whereas RAW files let you completely set and reset the white balance.

So while post-processing and in-camera white balancing are both serviceable, you’ll ultimately need to choose the option that works best for you.

How to white balance using in-camera presets

While white balance presets aren’t the most accurate way to color correct, they’re an easy way to get started (and if you’re simply capturing photos to share on social media, they may be all you require).

Simply pull up your in-camera white balance menu. You should see several presets, such as:

• Sunny, which works for mid-morning and mid-afternoon sun
• Shade, which works for scenarios with heavy shade (e.g., portraits under a tree)
• Cloudy, which works for outdoor scenes featuring overcast lighting
• Flash, which works for scenes lit by standard off-camera speedlights and pop-up flashes
• Incandescent, which works for indoor scenes lit by standard warm bulbs
• Fluorescent, which works for indoor scenes lit by fluorescent bulbs

Then pick the preset that most closely matches the lighting conditions you’re experiencing and start taking photos! You will need to pay close attention to the light as you continue shooting; if it changes significantly, you should switch presets to reflect the new conditions.

How to white balance your photos in Lightroom

Lightroom color correction is a quick and painless process.

First, open an image in the Develop module, then find the WB section on the right-hand side:

Next, select the Eyedropper icon:

Then click on a part of your image that should look a neutral gray or white. (Don’t be afraid to click in a few different places, especially if you’re not sure what counts as “neutral.”)

If you can’t find a neutral area to sample, or you don’t like the results, you can always head over to the Temp and Tint sliders:

You probably won’t need to adjust the Tint slider much, but feel free to drag the Temp slider back and forth until you get a neutral image.

How to creatively use white balance for different effects

While it’s always important to start by color correcting your photos, you can sometimes enhance images by deliberately pushing the white balance in the wrong direction. This generally works best when applied in a post-processing program, not in camera (though you can technically do it either way).

The idea here is simple:

By applying a too-cold white balance to your photos, you can create a somber, moody effect.

And by applying a too-warm white balance to your photos, you can create a welcoming, inviting, even nostalgic effect.

I don’t recommend you push the white balance too far – at some point, your photos may look unnatural – but a bit of cool or warm color is often nice when added carefully.

Note that you can also use an “incorrect” white balance to exaggerate the conditions of the scene. Adding cool hues will give images a shady or night effect, while adding warm hues will give images a sunrise or sunset effect. Again, use this technique with care. It’s easy to go overboard and end up with garish, unpleasant results.

White balance in photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to start adjusting the white balance in your photos so you can capture truly lifelike, authentic images.

Remember, however: don’t be confined by the idea of “correctness.” As with many elements in photography, white balance can also be a tool for artistic expression. Explore, experiment, and embrace the power of white balance to transform the mood and atmosphere of your shots.

So go out with your camera. Practice working with white balance. And make your images shine!

Now over to you:

What do you think about white balance in photography? Do you have any tips for improving your results? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

White balance FAQ

The post White Balance in Photography: The Essential Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Do you know how and when to use Screen blend mode in Photoshop to improve your images? While you probably realize that you can change the blending modes of your layers, determining which mode to use each time can be tough.

To make the most of Screen blend mode, it’s important to understand how it works. In this article, I start by explaining what Screen is and what it does to your images; I then share when to use it for the best results, and I give you some practical examples, too. I close with a couple of extra tips to help you master the blend mode and use it to improve your Photoshop editing.

So if you’re ready to become a Screen master, then let’s dive right in!

What is Screen blend mode?

First things first: Photoshop allows you to work with layers of different types (including image layers and adjustment layers). You can make each of your layers interact with one another – and blend modes are the mechanisms that guide this interaction. In other words, by choosing different blend modes, you can ensure that your layers interact in different ways.

Now, Photoshop’s blend modes are divided into categories. Screen belongs to the Lighten category because it lightens images (more about that in a moment!). Technically speaking, Screen inverts, multiplies, and once again inverts the value of the pixels. Let’s see what this means in practice:

As the examples show – in which white, gray, and black layers are blended with my original flower file – Screen generally lightens the original image. However, if you use Screen to blend an image with a black layer, the colors won’t change – and if you use Screen to blend an image with a white layer, you’ll get a pure white result.

When should you use Screen blend mode?

Screen is useful in two main situations: When you want to adjust or correct your image, and when you want to do photo compositing. Let’s take a look at both scenarios in turn:

1. For photo editing

As I mentioned above, Screen blend mode lightens your image – which means it comes in handy when you have underexposed (i.e., too dark) photos.

Simply duplicate your image layer, then change the blend mode to Screen. Your photo will immediately lighten:

It’s also possible to use the Screen blend mode – in combination with the Multiply blend mode – to add contrast.

You see, Screen and Multiply are opposites, so when you have an image that’s dull or flat, you can duplicate the image twice. Then change the blend mode to Screen on one of the duplicates and the blend mode to Multiply on the other!

All you need to do is duplicate the image two times. Change the blend mode to Screen on one of the duplicates and Multiply on the other, and your image will gain a bit of contrast.

2. For photo compositing

In the first section of this article, I showed you how black pixels won’t have any effect on your image when you use the Screen blend mode. And when you’re making a photo composite, this can certainly come in handy!

Why? Because when you paste a subject on a black surface, you won’t need to waste long minutes selecting and masking it. Instead, you can simply change the blend mode to Screen, and the black background will disappear. (Some common examples where this works well is when compositing smoke, lightning, and bokeh.)

How to use Screen blend mode: step by step

Working with Screen is extremely easy, and even Photoshop beginners should be able to grasp the basics.

Start by opening the image you want to edit in Photoshop. Then add a second layer (on which you’ll be using the Screen blend mode). It doesn’t matter if it’s a duplicate of the original file, a new image, or an adjustment layer; Screen is used the same way in each scenario.

For my example, I’m duplicating the Background layer. To do this, you can click on the layer and drag it to the Add New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel, or you can use the Duplicate Layer command in the Layer menu:

Make sure your new layer is selected, then open the blend mode menu (you’ll find it at the top of the Layers panel). Scroll until you find Screen:

If you’re using Photoshop CC, you’ll see a preview of each blend mode’s effect as you hover over it in the menu. However, to apply Screen (or any other blend mode), you’ll need to click on it.

If the result is a little too intense, go ahead and adjust the opacity. You’ll find this option at the top of the Layers panel next to the blend mode menu:

By default, the opacity will be at 100%. To adjust it, click on the arrow next to it to open the slider. Then simply move the slider until you’re happy with the result!

Screen blend mode: A step-by-step example

As I mentioned above, there are many uses for the Screen blend mode. In this example, I show you how it can be used to recover underexposed photographs, then I explain how to combine it with the Multiply blend mode to add contrast.

By the time I’m finished, you’ll see how much detail you can recover from a poorly exposed photograph without losing any information.

Step 1: Duplicate your image layer

You’ll need to start by opening your image; by default, it will appear as a locked Background layer:

Go ahead and duplicate the original image. Remember, you can simply click and drag it to the plus sign at the bottom of the panel (i.e., the Add New Layer icon). Alternatively, you can select Layer>Duplicate Layer in the Photoshop menu.

Step 2: Apply the Screen blend mode

Next, you’ll want to change the blend mode to Screen. As I explained in the previous section, you can do this by opening the drop-down menu at the top of the Layers panel.

Click on Screen, then watch as the image brightens:

Step 3: Adjust the tones

The Screen blend mode did a great job of boosting the exposure of my image, but the highlights – that is, the brightest portions of the sky and the water- are a bit too bright. I want to lower the effect of the blend mode on those areas (and only those areas).

To do this, I’ll add a layer mask. You can create masks by selecting the relevant layer, then clicking the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the panel. Then grab a Brush, set it to black, lower its opacity, and start painting over the lighter areas (while making sure your mask is selected).

The areas over which I’ve painted decrease in brightness, giving a nice result:

I like what I’ve produced, but I want to brighten the shadows further and add some contrast. To do this, I can create a Levels adjustment layer, then change the blend mode to Screen:

Just altering the blend mode will produce an immediate change – though you can fine-tune the effect using the sliders or the presets in the Levels property panel. In my case, I’ve used one of the presets to increase the contrast.

Note: If you think it’s necessary, you can lower the opacity of your Levels adjustment layer. I turned mine down to 50%, but you should always move the slider to choose a value that’s right for your image.

Step 5: Add some extra contrast

At this point, my image has details in shadows and highlights, and it’s definitely an improvement compared to the original. However, it looks rather flat. A dramatic sky would give it the extra oomph it needs.

I’ll merge and copy all the layers into a single new file by pressing Ctrl/Cmd+Shift+Alt/Option+E, then I’ll change the blend mode to Multiply.

Since Multiply is the opposite of Screen, the image will get darker. Unfortunately, while the sky is now exactly what I want, the rest is too dark again. So I’ll create a layer mask to fine-tune where I want the Multiply layer to appear and where I want the Screen layer to shine through:

And that’s it. Just look at the difference:

Screen blend mode: 2 quick tips

Like any other Photoshop tool, there’s more to Screen than meets the eye. Here are a few extra tips to help you out:

1. Apply Screen blend mode to a filter

When you’re working with Smart Objects, the filters you apply become Smart Filters – which allow you to change the blend mode (just as if you were working with layers).

To adjust a filter’s blend mode, double-click on the Adjustments icon next to the filter in the Layers panel. This will open a dialog box; simply open the Mode menu and choose Screen:

2. Use Screen to add a tint to your photos

You can use the Screen blend mode to add a tint or a touch of color to your images. Simply add a Solid Color or Gradient layer, then change the blend mode to Screen:

If the effect is a bit strong, you can always lower the opacity. Note that the result may be very subtle, yet it’s a great way to give your images that extra-polished look.

Screen blend mode: final words

Hopefully, you found this article helpful! Screen isn’t a hugely popular blend mode, but it’s actually very useful and versatile. Whether you’re adding clouds to a landscape, steam to a cup of coffee, or brightening an underexposed photo, Screen will make things so much easier.

So if you haven’t already, head into Photoshop and test it out. Try compositing two images, or see if you can subtly improve a photo by using Screen to alter the exposure.

Now over to you:

How do you plan to use the Screen blend mode? Do you have any additional tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Did you know that you can apply a watercolor effect in Photoshop to any image?

That’s right. You can make any photo look like it was painstakingly painted by hand, which comes in handy if you’re looking to create an abstract effect, or you’re hoping to liven up an otherwise bland image.

In this article, I’ll explain how it works (in simple language that even a Photoshop beginner can understand). I’ll also show you how to use a Photoshop action to create the effect, so you can do it with just a few quick clicks.

Ready to make your photos look like watercolors? Let’s get to it!

What is a Photoshop watercolor effect?

Most of us have done a watercolor painting at some point in our lives. Watercolors are often used by children because, unlike other types of paints, they’re not at risk of being drunk. (Why? Because they’re blocks of pigments bound together by a water-soluble ingredient. This means that the paints are solid – until you rub a wet brush on the pigment block.)

Now, unlike actual watercolor painting, the watercolor effect is done in Photoshop. It’s a post-processing technique that lets you make your photographs look like they were created using watercolor paints.

Not only is it safe, but it’s also easier than painting, and it’s very flexible. You can take full control over the results by proceeding through the steps I share below, or you can use an action, which is basically a preset that lets you automate the process.

When is it useful to create a watercolor effect?

This is an easy question to answer. You should create a watercolor effect whenever you want!

You see, making your photograph look like watercolor paint is a personal choice. Maybe you like watercolors but you don’t know how to paint. Perhaps you simply feel like experimenting with different techniques. Or maybe you just want to create a cool, painterly effect.

In summary, you don’t do the watercolor effect in Photoshop because it’ll help you achieve some other result down the line. You do it because you like how it looks!

How to create a watercolor effect in Photoshop: step by step

There are many ways to create a watercolor effect in Photoshop. For instance, you could go to the Filter Gallery inside Photoshop and choose the Watercolor option.

That’s an easy and quick solution. However, if you want your watercolor effect to look its absolute best, you should probably invest a little more time. The process I explain below is the one I like most. It gives great results, and it’s easy to follow and customize.

Before you start

Before you can create a watercolor effect, you’ll need to download watercolor brushes. For this tutorial, I’ve used the brushes offered by Adobe since they’re included in your Photoshop subscription and they’re easy to use.

To download the relevant brush, activate the Brush tool. Then click on the hamburger menu icon – on the Brush panel – to open the menu. Go ahead and select Get More Brushes…

This will launch the Adobe brushes websites. Click Download on the Watercolor package and save it on your computer. Then go back to Photoshop, open the Brushes panel menu again, and choose Import Brushes.

Then select the file you just downloaded and click OK.

You’ll also need a paper overlay to give your piece that authentic watercolor look. You can download one from many online websites. However, I found it easier to photograph a piece of watercolor paper and use that. Whatever approach you use, have this file ready when you decide to make your Photoshop watercolor effect.

Step 1: Open your photo and duplicate the layer

Start by bringing your photo into Photoshop, then duplicate the layer. This isn’t a step that changes the outcome of the watercolor effect, but I always like to do this so that I have an original version to revert back to if anything goes wrong.

You can do this by tapping Ctrl/Cmd + J. Then, because you’ll be working on the duplicate, turn off the background layer by clicking on the eye icon.

You can duplicate your layer – or revert back to the original layer – at any time. You can also turn the background layer on whenever you want. It won’t affect your work.

Step 2: Convert the layer to a Smart Object

Go ahead and convert the layer into a Smart Object; that way, all the filters you apply to that layer will become Smart Filters, and you can adjust them anytime you like (even once the filter effect has been applied).

To do this, just right-click on the layer and select Convert to Smart Object. Alternatively, you can select Filter in the main menu, then choose Convert for Smart Filters.

Step 3: Add the Dry Brush filter

As I mentioned earlier in this article, you can technically create a watercolor effect by choosing Filters>Filter Gallery>Artistic>Watercolor. But the result won’t look top-notch; instead, I’d recommend using a series of filters, starting with Dry Brush.

So in the menu, select Filters>Filter Gallery>Artistic>Dry Brush. Then move the slider until you like the result. Click OK.

Remember that, because you turned the layer into a Smart Object, you can always go back to adjust the sliders later on. So if you’re not sure you like the look you created, don’t worry!

Step 4: Add (and adjust) the Cutout filter

The next filter you need to apply is called Cutout. To do this, you’ll need to go back to the Filter Gallery, so select Filters>Filter Gallery. Be careful not to click on the first Filter Gallery on the menu:

Now, go to Artistic>Cutout:

Don’t worry if your image looks weird – you’ll need to change the blend mode to get the effect we’re after. So click OK.

Now go to the Layers panel and click on the icon on the right side of the second Filter Gallery effect:

This will open the Blending Options window; use the Mode dropdown menu to select Pin Light.

Now you can double-click the Filter Gallery layer to customize the filter if you want. Unfortunately, you can only see the filter effect without the blend mode in the Filter Gallery window, so adjusting the effect may take some trial and error.

Step 5: Blur the image

Next, you’ll need to create a blur effect. This won’t be found in the Filter gallery; instead, simply go to Filter>Blur>Smart Blur. Adjust the settings in the dialog box, and when you’re satisfied, click OK to apply.

Now change the blending mode to Screen. You’ll be able to open the relevant dialog box just like you did the last time: by clicking the icon next to the filter. Lower the opacity to whatever looks best.

Step 6: Apply the Fine Edge filter

The final filter is called Find Edges, which will mimic pencil traces that show through the watercolor. To apply it, go to Filter>Stylize>Find Edges.

Change the blend mode to Multiply and adjust the opacity to your liking.

Step 7: Add a paper texture

Now you’ll need to add a paper texture to make your watercolor effect more realistic. This is where the photo of the paper comes in handy.

You can add your paper overlay by choosing File>Place>Embedded. Alternatively, you can open the paper on a different tab and select Ctrl/Cmd + C and Ctrl/Cmd + V to copy and paste it into the relevant workspace.

Whichever technique you used, the paper photo should now appear as the top layer of your watercolor image. Be sure to adjust the size of the canvas so that the paper covers the entire image.

Go ahead and change the blend mode to Multiply using the dropdown menu in the Layers panel.

Step 8: Paint on the image

Go back to the layer with your watercolor image. Add a black layer mask (you can do this by clicking on the Add Layer Mask button at the bottom of the layer panel, then hit Ctrl/Cmd + I on your keyboard to fill the mask with black).

At this point, you’ll only see the paper. That’s because the black layer mask is hiding the image. You need to make it visible using white brushstrokes; by doing this right, the image will look painted on the paper.

So grab the Brush tool from the toolbox or enable it by hitting the B key on the keyboard. Go to the Options bar and choose one of the Watercolor brushes you downloaded at the beginning of this tutorial.

Start painting on the layer mask to reveal the image. Make sure you change the brush size often (you can also change the brush tip after a while). This will make the watercolor effect in Photoshop look more real (plus, it’ll look different every time!).

How to create a watercolor effect using Photoshop actions

As I explained above, an action is a way to automate a Photoshop process, very much like a preset. There are already many Watercolor Effect actions available for Photoshop, and they’re very easy to use. Simply download them, import them into Photoshop, and run the action.

Of course, you won’t get much control over the final result. That’s the trade-off; sure, you save time, but you lose customizability.

That said, some Photoshop actions do let you customize the effect slightly. It depends on the action. (And if you like the watercolor effect an action creates, you might not want to customize it!)

In case you want to try creating the effect using an action, I’ll quickly share a step-by-step explanation of how they work. (Note that I’ve already downloaded a cool watercolor action from Adobe.)

First, install the action. To do this, go to the Actions panel. Open the hamburger menu, and choose Load Action. Then, click on the action you downloaded; it should have an ATN file extension.

Once the action is loaded, you’ll find it listed in the Actions panel. If you’re using Adobe’s watercolor action, you’ll see it as a folder because it has two steps. However, if you’re using another action that only has one step, simply click Play and the watercolor effect will appear.

To use the Adobe action, open the folder and select the first step, called Setup. Click on the Play button to start:

Read the instructions and accept:

Select the subject as instructed. I’ll be using the Lasso tool, but feel free to use the tool of your choice. Then click on Watercolor Artist in the Actions panel and click Play:

And that’s it! Your image should now look like a watercolor. Note that the Adobe watercolor action leaves all the layers available for you in case you wish to make adjustments:

How to create a watercolor effect: final words

As you can see, applying a watercolor effect in Photoshop is not very difficult. You can use a filter, a handful of filters, or even an action – and once you’re done, all your favorite photos with look like gorgeous watercolor art.

You can also print the photos on watercolor paper and hang them around the house! So pick a few photos, then test out the watercolor effect. I bet you’ll like the results!

Now over to you:

Do you have any Photoshop tips for achieving amazing watercolor effects? Do you have any images using the technique that you’d like to share? Leave your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Create a Watercolor Effect in Photoshop (Step-By-Step Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

What’s the easiest way to convert to black and white in Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC? And how can you gain extra control over the conversion process so you can create beautiful black and white photos?

In this article, I explain everything you need to know about Lightroom black and white conversions, including:

• A simple, one-click method for quick conversions
• How to tweak your converted images using the B&W panel for pro-level results
• How to batch-convert dozens (or hundreds) of images in seconds

Ready to become a B&W master? Then let’s do this!

How to convert to black and white in Lightroom: the basics

In this section, I offer a quick method of converting your color photos to B&W in both Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC:

Lightroom Classic B&W conversion

Lightroom Classic makes black and white conversions incredibly easy.

Start by opening your file in the Develop module.

Then simply click the Black & White option on the right-hand side, just above the Profile menu:

Your image will turn black and white, and – that’s it! – you’re done. This basic conversion process does a decent job, though I recommend you apply additional edits if you want the best possible results (as I explain below).

Lightroom CC B&W conversion

Black and white conversions in Lightroom CC are similarly simple.

Select a photo, then open the Edit panel.

Tap B&W, and your image will instantly convert. Again, for the best results, you should do further editing, which I explain in the next section.

How to convert to black and white in Lightroom: advanced options

Once you have a black and white image, you’ll need to carefully apply adjustments to really make your file shine.

Exposure and contrast edits

I’d recommend starting in your program’s basic editing panel; here, you can play around with the exposure, the contrast, the highlights, the shadows, and so on. (Note: These Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC edits are essentially identical, so my instructions apply regardless of your software.)

Black and white images often benefit from a major contrast boost, so try increasing the Contrast slider until the different composition elements really pop. You might also try adding some Clarity to enhance the overall crispness – this is especially useful when working with architectural and street images, though you should generally avoid the Clarity slider when editing portraits – and if you want an extreme result, try cranking up the Dehaze slider.

I’d also recommend setting the overall Exposure slider so that your file includes plenty of detail. And move the Blacks, Whites, Shadows, and Highlights sliders back and forth until you get an effect you like. (A common edit is to reduce the Highlights and Blacks while boosting the Shadows and Whites, but it’s really up to you and will vary from image to image!)

At that point, you can call it a day – or you can continue down to the B&W panel (Lightroom CC calls this the B&W Mixer), which lets you do further fine-tuning.

The B&W panel

The B&W panel, also known as the B&W Mixer panel, is located below the basic editing options:

Using the Mixer, you can increase and decrease the brightness of specific colors in an image. By boosting the Orange slider, for instance, you brighten up areas of the black and white image that were previously orange; by dropping the Red slider, you darken down areas of the image that were previously red; and so on. This is pretty powerful, because it offers a ton of flexibility for adjusting image tones.

Now, I’d recommend two simple approaches here:

The first approach – and the most fun – is to simply move the sliders back and forth, one at a time, until you like the result. This is a great way to work as a beginner, and it can be useful for serious photographers, too.

The second approach is to identify areas of the image that should stand out, such as a portrait subject, a tree in the foreground, or a person walking through a street scene. Determine the corresponding color sliders, then brighten up those colors. (You might also darken down the background colors while you’re at it.)

So if you were editing an image of a yellow flower on a green background, you might boost the Yellow slider while decreasing the Green slider. Make sense?

Pro tip: If you want even finer control when working with color channels, you can use the targeted adjustment eyedropper (located next to the color sliders):

Select the dropper, then hover over the portion of your image you want to lighten or darken. If you drag upward, the relevant color channels will lighten – and if you drag downward, the relevant color channels will darken.

You can even see this reflected in the sliders, which you can further modify in the Mixer panel.

Keep in mind, however, that you shouldn’t push the sliders too far. Black and white images can generally handle pretty significant adjustments, but if you add major color shifts, you may introduce unwanted artifacts and halos into your files, like this:

The effect may be subtle, but it does matter, so I recommend you avoid it whenever possible. It’s a bigger problem with JPEGs than RAWs, but it can happen to both types of files. Always keep an eye out for issues, and always be prepared to dial back your edits as required.

How to convert multiple files to black and white

If you’ve taken several (or several hundred) photos you want to convert to black and white, then you have the option to batch-process the files.

Start by converting one file to black and white – you can make exposure, contrast, or even Mixer adjustments, too – then select Edit>Copy.

If you’re working in Lightroom Classic, you’ll see a Copy Settings window, where you’ll need to select all the edits you’d like to apply to your photos. If you only wish to do a simple black-and-white conversion, just check the Treatment & Profile option; if you wish to copy over contrast or B&W Mixer adjustments, check those boxes, too.

If you’re working in Lightroom CC, however, all adjustments from the first image will be copied automatically.

Hold the Ctrl/Cmd key on your keyboard and select the images you’d like to convert.

Finally, choose Edit>Paste, and all the images will convert to B&W!

How to convert to black and white in Lightroom: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to quickly and effectively convert your files to black and white.

So head over to Lightroom. And do some high-quality editing!

What type of images do you plan to convert to black and white? Which adjustments will you make? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Convert to Black and White in Lightroom (Quick Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Andrew S. Gibson.

The Photoshop twirl effect is a cool editing trick that can turn bland images into abstract art. Even if you haven’t heard of it by name, I’m sure you’ve seen it around – it’s very popular among Photoshop lovers.

But how does it work, and how can you apply it to your own photos? In this article, I explain how to create a twirl effect in Photoshop, and I also offer several tips and tricks to ensure you get the best possible results!

Let’s dive right in.

What is the twirl effect?

The twirl effect is a post-production technique that stretches and “twirls” an image, like this:

In this article, I focus on creating the twirl effect in Photoshop, but note that it’s not a PS-exclusive technique; you can apply it using a variety of comprehensive editing programs.

During the process, your image loses all detail and figurative references. First, you turn your photograph into an abstract scene formed by colored lines, which you then warp to create a twirl effect.

When is a twirl effect useful?

The twirl effect is a great way to achieve dreamy, abstract art, no matter the underlying image. I’d recommend using it whenever you’re looking to create some digital artwork; while the result won’t look natural, it’s often quite spectacular!

One of the good things about this technique is that you can apply it to pretty much any photo. You might have a few images lying around that, on their own, are nothing special. Perhaps they aren’t technically correct – for example, they’re blurry. However, by applying the twirl effect, you can create something beautiful.

How to create a twirl effect in Photoshop: step by step

It’s very easy to create the twirl effect, even if you have zero editing experience! Simply follow these steps and experiment with each filter until you get a solid result.

Step 1: Select and open your photo

Start by opening a photo in Photoshop. It doesn’t matter which image you use – the twirl effect can be applied to any subject or composition. And if you’re struggling to decide between a few different shots, why not try them all?

Step 2: Prepare a second layer

Next, you’ll want to duplicate the background layer (i.e., your photo). Drag it to the plus sign at the bottom of the Layers panel or simply choose Layer>Duplicate Layer in the menu.

Then convert the new layer to a Smart Object. You can right-click the layer and choose Convert to Smart Object, or you can choose Filter>Convert for Smart Filters.

That way, you can go back to each filter later on and make adjustments again without having to start over.

Step 3: Add a Mezzotint filter

To create the twirl effect in Photoshop, you need to apply a series of filters to your image. The first one is Mezzotint.

In the main menu, choose Filters>Pixelate>Mezzotint. This will open a dialog box. Beneath the preview window, you can open the Type menu and pick your preferred type.

At this point, choosing between the different types won’t make much sense unless you’ve done the twirl effect before. So don’t worry too much about it. You can also come back and change it once you’ve applied the next filters because you converted the layer into a Smart Object.

In this case, I’m using the Medium Strokes type, but don’t feel that you have to do the same.

Step 4: Apply the Radial Blur filter

The next filter you need to apply is a Radial Blur, so head into the menu and select Filters>Blur>Radial Blur.

In the dialog box, set the Blur Method to Zoom. As for the Quality: You can choose Draft to speed things up, or you can use Good or Best if the file isn’t too big. At this point, you still have to apply more filters, so it’s not a problem to keep the value as Draft.

I’d suggest setting the amount to 100. You can always come back later and experiment with different numbers to see how they influence the final effect.

Then add the Radial Blur filter again. When you open the Filters menu, you’ll find the last filter you used at the top, so go ahead and select it:

The Radial Blur dialog box will open once more, and it should feature the same settings as before. Simply click OK.

Finally, apply the filter a third time, but make sure you change the Quality to Best:

Step 5: Add the Twirl filter

At this point, your photo should be looking pretty abstract, which means it’s time to start the twirling process! In the main menu, select Filter>Distort>Twirl.

In the dialog box, boost the Angle slider to add the twirl effect. There isn’t a magic Angle value that works for every image. Simply move the slider until you like what you see in the preview window, then click OK.

Go ahead and duplicate your twirled layer using the same process discussed in Step 2.

Step 6: Modify the duplicated layer

Identify your duplicate layer in the Layers panel. Note that the duplicate layer will contain all the Smart Filters you’ve applied so far. So double-click on the Twirl filter to open its dialog box:

Drag the Angle slider to the left until you reach the negative of the number you previously chose. I used an initial value of 197, so I’ll use an Angle value of -197.

(Pro tip: To quickly reverse the value, just click inside the value box and type a hyphen before the number.)

Now the twirl should go in the direction opposite that of the first layer. Click OK to apply it.

Step 7: Adjust the layer blend mode

At this point, you should have two layers, each featuring opposite twirls. However, the top layer will be completely blocking the layer underneath, and we need both layers to interact.

Simply open the Blend mode menu on the Layers panel, then pick a mode! Feel free to experiment with different modes to create different effects (and if you’re using Photoshop CC, you can preview the result as you hover over different blending options).

And that’s it; your twirl effect in Photoshop is done!

Tips and tricks to improve your twirl effect images

Once you can create a nice twirl effect, try a few of these tips to improve your workflow and level up your results:

1. Create an action

Making the twirl effect in Photoshop is very easy. However, it does involve a handful of steps. If you want to streamline your workflow and quickly apply the effect to any photo, you can create an Action.

Start by opening the image you want to modify. Then open the Actions panel. At the bottom, you’ll find a Plus symbol; that’s the New Action button.

Choose a name and start recording. Then follow the steps shared above to create the twirl effect. Once you’ve finished, stop the recording.

The next time you want to apply the twirl effect to an image, simply play the Action and Photoshop will automatically follow all the steps.

2. Apply the mirror effect

The twirl effect is nice, but if you want to get even more creative, you can apply the mirror effect to your image. To do this, you flip the image and put it next to the original.

You can even create a variety of different copies of the image, each rotated and cropped, and blend them together. There’s no limit to your creativity!

3. Use a mask to reveal part of the original image

Another creative application of the twirl effect? Combine the twirled file with part of the original image. You’ll need to use a layer mask to cover and reveal the different parts. Here’s how:

Create a new Group with the two layers that have the twirl effect. You can do this by selecting the layers and clicking on the folder icon at the bottom of the Layers panel.

Make sure the Group is selected, then click on the Layer Mask button. You’ll see a blank thumbnail appear next to the folder. Here, anything that you paint in black will be covered up, revealing anything that lies below (on the original background layer).

So use the Brush tool to paint black over the layer mask and reveal the unmodified shot underneath. And if you mess up while painting, don’t worry; you can always switch to a white Brush and paint over the mistake.

How to create the twirl effect: final words

I hope you liked this twirl effect tutorial! It’s a great way to produce plenty of interesting abstract effects – and you can apply them to pretty much any image, no matter their original quality.

So spend some time adding the twirl effect to your photos. Maybe even create an action. Good luck!

Now over to you:

Do you have any twirl effect photos that you’re proud of? Do you have any tips or tricks for better results? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Create a Twirl Effect in Photoshop: A Quick Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.