Thank you to those of you who reached out about “A Love Letter to My Dutch Oven” in the New York Times last week. (That’s a gift link if you missed it and would like to read.) The essay, about how my 5 1/2-quart enameled-steel Le Creuset watched me grow up, was a lot of fun to write, but even better were all the texts and emails I received from long-lost friends. And since apparently a 1000-word essay doesn’t seem to be sufficient, I have continued the Dutch oven conversation about over on my Substack newsletter, which is the main place you’ll find me these days. Earlier this week, I shared my Top 10 favorite Dutch oven recipes as well as the somewhat out-of-nowhere epiphany that inspired the essay. Please swing by — and if you like what you read, join the community by subscribing. Thanks so much.

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A week ago, Andy and I were both packing for separate trips — me to Seattle for fun, and him to Boston for work — when the subject of dinner came up, as it tends to do. Should we just do takeout? He asked. It was tempting. I had a lot to do before my 4:45 am wake-up the next day and I didn’t want to deal with cooking and cleaning, and the agedashi tofu and spinach goma-ae from our favorite Japanese spot was calling my name. But, so too were several ingredients in the fridge that would probably go to waste if I didn’t use them before my trip. Plus we had chicken sausage in the freezer, and when that’s the case, dinner is already 80% made. In other words: Why spend money on takeout when I could just dump a few links into a baking dish, surround them with tomatoes, red onions, thyme, and a half a block of feta and bake for under a half hour? And so that’s what I did.

A very simple salad came together while it was in the oven, and the whole thing was so good and satisfying, especially when I stirred the feta into the cooked-down tomatoes, à la the viral circa-2020 pasta, to make a creamy sauce. I wish I took a photo of my plate with the green salad because the final dinner was gorgeous and somehow tasted better than the sum of its parts. Maybe that’s because it came with some virtue baked right into it. You can head over to my Substack for the How-To.

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I know what you might be thinking: Bolognese is not a sheet-pan dinner. Bolognese is not a simple dinner, a shortcut dinner, a dinner conducive to the very American instinct of under-30-minute-ing. If you’ve ever made Marcella Hazan’s famous recipe for Bolognese from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking — the one where you and your pot sit patiently while the meat first absorbs a whole cup of wine, then a whole cup of milk, then two cups of juicy tomatoes — then you know what she says is “essential” for achieving optimum results: “The sauce must cook at the merest simmer for a long, long time. The minimum is 3 1/2 hours; 5 is better.”

Time! That’s what she’s talking about. But you know what else she’s talking about? MEAT. And even though her Bolognese is legit one of the main reasons I am not a full-fledged vegetarian, I also really crave the meaty depth of Bolognese that can sorta kinda be approximated by mushrooms and a strategically deployed supporting cast of ingredients. (As they say in therapy world, “Both things can be true!”) And maybe I can even enjoy it on a weeknight, when I do not have five hours to simmer and daydream.

Enter: Sheet-Pan Mushroom Bolognese with Gnocchi. It’s vegetarian, it’s fast, it’s one-pan. The gnocchi is roasted and crisped on the sheet pan right along with the sauce, which gets an assist from umami-rich tomato paste, dried herbs, wine if you happen to have it, and a very Marcella-esque pinch of nutmeg.

Please head over to my Substack for the recipe.

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When it comes to restaurants, the Upper West Side of Manhattan is famously casual and family-friendly…and a little slim on destination spots, but that does not mean we haven’t found our go-tos since we moved to the neighborhood from the suburbs last year. Here’s a run-down of places we patronize regularly for coffee, specialty shopping, casual breakfasts and lunches, takeout, pre-theater, cocktails, and, of course, dinner. If you live in the neighborhood (or even if you don’t), particularly in the west 90s or 100s, please feel free to add your own recommendations in the comments. I’m still new here and learning everyday. P.S. Similar to my Where I Eat in Westchester List, this will be a post I plan to regularly update, so feel free to keep checking in.

Shown above, clockwise from top left: Orwashers, Dagon, Mast Market, Sugarfish (credit: Grubstreet), Barney Greengrass, Pastrami Queen, Owl’s Tail, Sal & Carmine, me at Cafe Luxembourg.

Barney Greengrass (Amsterdam/87th) I’ll start with the destination spots right up top, like this legendary Jewish Deli known for its iconic smoked fish (“The Sturgeon King”), bagels, and old-school New York deli atmosphere, including the old grumpy waiters who emerge from the back room asking if anyone wants one of the freshly fried latkes he’s carrying. I take out-of-towners here, I meet my brother for French toast here, I take my daughter here when she comes home from college, I pick up a bagel with lox and walk to park from here. I am so grateful to be within walking distance. Cash only, naturally.
Good for: Destination dining, out-of-towners, breakfast, lunch, old-New York lovers, takeout for Central Park picnics

Cafe Luxembourg (70th/Bway) To me, it’s the quintessential Upper West Side restaurant with its idyllic honey-golden light, its distinct New York energy that’s somehow both neighborhoody and special occasion-y, and its perfectly executed crowdpleaser menu. (Think: Shrimp Cocktail, Burgers, Profiteroles, Sticky Toffee Pudding.) The place is an institution and we’ve been there many times over the decades, as longtime readers surely know already. Also, ideally situated for a pre-show meal if you’re heading to Lincoln Center or the Beacon, and even Broadway.
Good for: Destination dining, celebrations, regulars, out-of-towners, brunch, dinner, pre-theater

Shinbashi (72nd/Bway) We rely on this tiny bustling market on West 72nd street for its classic Japanese comfort foods — like katsu, ramen, and made-fresh onigiri — but I also appreciate their well-curated market when I’m in search of specialty Japanese staples and snacks. Think: soy sauce, rice, miso paste, Pocky sticks, shrimp chips, wasabi peas. No sit-down, just takeaway. (Photo credit: Beyond My Door.)
Good for: Speciality shopping, takeout, no dining in

Kossar’s (72nd/ West End) The legendary Lower East Side bagel and bialy shop opened up this UWS branch less than a year ago, and yet already I have no idea how we lived without it. Their bagels are my ideal: crispy, compact (i.e. not huge, the worst!), just the tiniest bit sweet, and — thanks to a steady stream of traffic — usually warm. My go-to order is changing all the time but currently it’s a plain bagel with horseradish-pickle cream cheese or egg-and-cheese on a toasted buttered onion bialy. I always grab a chocolate babka, too, especially if I’m visiting friends or family or going to someone’s house for dinner, or thanking the dog-walker, or….you get the idea.
Good for: Destination eating, authentic New York bagels, breakfast, lunch, coffee

Sal & Carmine (101st/Bway) It’s true that in New York, the best slice of pizza is most often the one at your corner pizzeria. We are so spoiled with how many options abound for world-class pizza! But when it’s time to order in a classic cheese pie — with just the right ratio of sturdy crust, melty cheese, and a slightly-sweet tomato sauce — it’s usually from this no-frills classic New York-style spot on Broadway.
Good for: Authentic New York pizza, dinner takeout, super casual pizzeria lunch or dinner

Tarallucci e Vino (Columbus/83rd) A pressed-tin ceiling, a marble espresso bar, gorgeous charcuterie plates, a tight menu of classic pastas (spaghetti pommodoro, rigatoni ragu, orecchiette with sausage and broccoli rabe, etc) the occasional Kyra Sedgwick-Kevin Bacon sighting, I love this place for a latte on a Sunday morning or Cacio e Pepe and a glass of Gavi on a Friday night. It’s especially charming and New York-feeling to eat outside on a spring or summer evening. Bonus: Nine times out of ten you can snag a same-day dinner reservation.
Good for: Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and meeting friends for drinks or dinner

Pappardella (Columbus/75th) Is their pasta Misi– or Via Carota-level? No. But with its murals of the Ponte Vecchio on the wall, a seriously red-sauce Italian-American menu dripping with cheese, and waiters who pronounce prosciutto “pro-ZHOO,” there’s a comfort level that we appreciate as old-schoolers. I always order their Eggplant Parm, Phoebe goes for the Chicken Milanese, and Andy likes the Brick oven pizzas.
Good for: Casual dinner, kids

Daily Provisions (Amsterdam/78th) Even though there are many of these throughout the city now, they still somehow manage to feel neighborhoody and intimate. Turns out Danny Meyer knows what he is doing! Everything on the casual salad/soup/sandwich menu is solid, but to me, the stand-outs are the egg-and-cheese (perfect egg-to-bread ratio), the custardy crullers (maple or cinnamon), and the baked-fresh caramel chocolate chunk cookie.
Good for: Breakfast, lunch, and/or takeout for Central Park picnic, meeting someone for coffee or lunch

Covacha (Columbus/77th) Covacha translates to “hole in the wall,” but this Michelin-starred Mexican spot, with its modern-rustic look and its location across the street from the Museum of Natural History feels like anything but. I love the Jalisco/western Mexican menu — we’ve only been a few times, but had great luck with the bright fish tacos, above, chicken quesabirrias, tomato bash (a chilled tomato salad served in a sweet-peppery sauce), and the refried beans with cotija. Next time I am ordering the flautas, because: can you believe how pretty? The restaurant is part of the mini-UWS empire that also includes the popular El Mitote, Ella Social, and Café Frida, which was the previous iteration of Covacha, and closed during the pandemic.
Good for: Dinner with friends, kids, before or after Museum Nat. History, before a show at the Beacon

Miriam (Amsterdam/73rd) There are a few of these Mediterranean spots in New York — the original is in Park Slope — and if you order correctly (the chicken shawarma, the dipping plates, the pomegranate glazed meatballs when they’re on the menu), it’s a solid option for meeting a friend for casual dinner. Would I get on a subway and come here from another neighborhood? I don’t think so. But the dining room is well-designed, the lighting golden and soft, and it is always always busy, which is not nothing. PS: We are not brunch people, but word on the street is that they have a great one.
Good for: Dinner, brunch, meeting friends

Mast Market (Columbus/77th) I love its calming, white-oak aesthetic and especially love their provisions fridge in the back which is packed with farm-market meat and produce and, importantly, Yellow Bell Farm eggs, so it feels like I have a mini-farmer’s market every day of the week. They also sell pre-made salads and artisanal local pantry items like jams, vinegar, honey, olive oils, heirloom grains; and two destination snacks: White Moustache yogurt and Nightingale Ice Cream Sandwiches. This is where I often meet people for work meetings or take out-of-town friends for coffee and a pastry or an afternoon hot chocolate with the girls.
Good for: Coffee and pastries, meeting friends for breakfast or coffee, bougie provisions shopping

Rosetta (Broadway/64th) There are a few of them in New York (and Miami, where I first discovered it ages ago) but the one across from Lincoln Center is my go-to for excellent, if somewhat overpriced Italian sandwiches and pastries. It’s a good place to meet someone for a casual breakfast or lunch — it’s counter service with a very large sit-down area that usually feels like a giant party. It’s loud and high-ceilinged and you can almost always find a table.
Good for: Breakfast, lunch, coffee, takeout for a Central Park picnic, quick sandwich or bite before Lincoln Center

Bar Boulud (Broadway/63rd) Yes, the interior could use an update — it feels a bit stuck in the early aughts — but the French bistro menu is very Boulud, which is to say dependably first-rate. Eating at the bar is a good 11th-hour move if you haven’t planned ahead before a concert at Lincoln Center. So is the grapefruit Negroni. JUNE 2025 UPDATE: Daniel Boulud is closing his Lincoln Center trio of eateries (including Bar Boulud), and opening one large brasserie in fall 2025. This is very exciting — more details here.
Good for: Dinner, drinks, pre-Lincoln Center

Sushi Yasaka (72nd/West End) We’ve probably been here more than any other restaurant on this list and though I wouldn’t call it a destination restaurant, it’s a longtime favorite among locals (including Ruth Reichl), beloved for its reasonably priced, high-quality sushi. I’m also a fan of their agedashi tofu, spinach goma-ae, and fried oyster appetizer.
Good for: Lunch, dinner, takeout, kids

The Hoptimist (Amsterdam/80th) We love this brewery for its devotion to New York State-made beers and ciders (Flagship, Doc’s, Equilibrium), but also because you can cozy up in the winter and sit outside in the summer. Plus, it’s actively dog-friendly — there’s an entire wall devoted to polaroids of its canine customers, including Bean. They don’t serve food, but on the weekends they let you order from the 7th Street Burger next door.
Good for: Neighborhood vibes, lunch, dinner, outdoor drinks, meeting friends for drink, or for a post-Central Park beer on a nice night

Two Wheels (Amsterdam/80th) When the Bánh Mì craving hits, you’ll find us here. (It’s a door or two away from The Hoptimist.) It’s counter-service casual with a crowd-pleaser menu of pho, bánh mì, and, my favorite, the coconut and rice flour crepes you can order with pork, shrimp, tofu, or chicken.
Good for: Lunch, dinner takeout, casual counter-service dining

New Cottage Chinese (Broadway/78th) In the former space of beloved Le Caridad (RIP), this Szechuan spot appeared on my radar when Alex Delaney, who has exceptional taste in all things New York food, posted about how much he loved their dumplings. We’ve since hit them up for every kind of dumpling as well as some addictive moo shu chicken and sesame noodles.
Good for: Takeout, verrryy casual dining (atmosphere is hilariously nonexistent)

Dagon (Broadway/91st) Like many restaurants on the UWS, this place is ginormous — which usually turns me off — but Dagon is always filled and hoppin’ probably because the Middle Eastern fare they serve here is the best in the neighborhood. The mezze sampler with the chicken liver mousse is worth the price of admission alone. Bonus: Also has a beautiful bar.
Good for: Destination dining, meeting friends, lunch, dinner, drinks

Lilly’s (72nd/Columbus) A string-lighted, exposed-brick cozy little spot, half a block from Central Park. The food is mediocre, but it’s got good neighborhood-spot energy and a small, intimate space, something of a rarity on the UWS, making it ideal for a glass of wine or cocktail with friends.
Good for: Drinks and light bites, especially on a cold night

Zabar’s (Broadway/81st) Do you need me to tell you to go to Zabar’s? Probably not. But I’m doing it anyway. It’s the original gourmet market — with its bagels-and-babka bakery, prepared foods, absurdly bountiful cheese and “appetizers” selection, plus of course the legendary smoked fish, and if you’re swinging through town as a visitor, this is the place to grab New York food souvenirs for friends at home. P.S. Don’t forget to go to the kitchen and supply market upstairs. It’s one of those dusty mish-mash situations where you can find Zabar’s merch plus pots, pans, cake sprinkles, Mason Jars, cookie sheets, aprons, dish towels, you get the idea. I’ll say it again: Legendary!
Good for: Destination shopping, market shopping, authentic old-school New York, takeout bagels, coffee, baked goods

Hudson & Charles Meats (Amsterdam/87th) We go here when we want high-quality pork chops, sausages or steak. There’s a provisions shelf and fridge, too, packed with things like bone broths and Rancho Gordo beans and artisanal pickles. Apparently they have an amazing roast beef sandwich with warm au jus for dipping — my brother, a fan, has been trying to get me there for lunch to see for myself.
Good for: Market shopping, sandwiches/lunch

Orwashers (Amsterdam/81st) A cozy, artisanal bakery known for its fresh, hand-crafted breads and pastries. The space has a warm, rustic feel and it always feels a bit chaotic on the (usually long) line. Their breakfast sandwiches are great, as are the signature sourdough and babka, and I beg you not to leave with out a piped-to-order jelly-stuffed donut, specifically the sour cherry.
Good for: Takeout breakfast or lunch

Old John’s Diner (67th/Amsterdam) A reliable spot that feels neighborhoody and serves no-frills diner food — pancakes, waffles, burgers, BLTs, tuna melts — in a cozy retro-y setting. It’s a good place to know about if you want to grab something before Lincoln Center or a Museum of Natural History visit with kids. Always crowded, so try to make reservations.
Good for: Kids, diner-casual breakfast, lunch, dinner

Thai Market (107th/Amsterdam) Packed with Columbia students (and everyone else), my daughters like to take friends to this bustling authentic spot when they visit New York. Definitely get reservations. P.S. Love the pad see ew and larb gai.
Good for: Students, cheap eats, casual lunch and dinner

Patsy’s Pizza (74th/Columbus) Confession: I haven’t actually been here since we moved to New York in 2023, but when the kids were young and we were visiting the area for an afternoon, we inevitably stopped at Patsy’s for top-notch classic thin-crust New York pies. (It’s an offshoot of the legendary ca-1933 Patsy’s in Harlem…I hope I have that right — NY pizza politics are complicated with all the John’s and Patsy’s.) There are pastas and salads, too, but you go for the pizza.
Good for: Large groups, kids, family-style eating, pre- or post-museum visits

Motorino (85th/Columbus) Another great sit-down pizza option for the kids. We’ve only ordered takeout, but every time I walk by the space I think It looks so cozy and welcoming in there. It’s Neapolitan wood-fired pizza and they have all the basic pies, plus some more artisanal options like clam pizzas, Brussels sprouts pizzas and the spicy-hot Soppresata Picante which seems to be everyone’s favorite.

Charles Pan-Fried (72nd/Columbus) For take-out barbecue when friends are coming over to watch the game or when I just don’t feel like cooking for people. (Hey, it happens!) I love their pulled pork on sandwiches, their barbecue chicken, and their classic sides like mac & cheese, slaw, black-eyed peas, collards, cornbread, etc. I still have not had the titular pan-fried chicken, but I’m guessing that is damn good, too.
Good for: Lunch, dinner, takeout only

Sugarfish (75th Amsterdam/Bway) I keep waiting for my obsession with this place to wane, but five years after I first ordered from their “Trust Me” menu, the fire still burns hot. There is a lot of extraordinary Japanese food in New York, but I simply cannot imagine any of them having better sushi and hand rolls than Sugarfish. Warm rice, the freshest fish, flaky nori, every component is perfect times a million. It’s the kind of food where your mouth is still kind of remembering and enjoying it an hour later, I’m not kidding. I dream about the crab roll. There are multiple locations in New York and LA, and when one opened up last spring three blocks away from my apartment I nearly fainted with excitement. Bonus: Warm, elegant ambiance.
Good for: Lunch or dinner, not necessarily pre-theater even though it’s steps away from the Beacon — they don’t take reservations which I think is too big a gamble before a show

Owl’s Tail (75th Amsterdam/Bway) We like it for small plates and cocktails and pretty much only go when we’re meeting people before a show at the Beacon. They do take reservations, unlike Sugarfish, right next door.
Good for: Dinner or drinks, pre-theater

QUICK SWEETS AND TREATS ROUND-UP: This little sidebar is dedicated to my Bronx-born Dad, who, no matter what New York neighborhood he found himself in, always knew exactly where to go to get himself some kind of chocolate treat. I’ve expanded beyond chocolate, but not by much: At William Greenberg (Amsterdam/73rd) they sell a classic Seven-Layer Cake (shown) by the slice, which has proven to be dangerous knowledge; both the cinnamon and the chocolate babka at Kossar’s (72nd/West End) are bring-home-to-friends worthy, but I have to say (sorry Dad!) the cinnamon might have the edge; Two notable beauties at Daily Provisions (78th/Amsterdam) the Salted Caramel Chocolate Cookie and the somewhat famous Maple Cruller, all burnt-in-the-best-way and custardy; The expert provisions curators at Mast (77th/Columbus) are now smart enough to stock the Chocolate Chess Pie from Four & Twenty Blackbirds if you don’t have time to head to the Brooklyn spot yourself; the chocolate rugelach, at Bread’s, all buttery and delicate, works so far beyond its job description as rugelach, it’s more like what rugelach would be if it married a croissant. Up near St. John the Divine, there is the insane Dobos (Hungary’s 7-layer cake, with chocolate, sponge cake and a caramel topping) at the old-school, legendary Hungarian Pastry Shop (111th/Amsterdam) but also the strudels and the linzer tartes and the regular writers and students who make the place feel so local and welcoming.

QUICK COFFEE TO GO ROUND UP: Black Press (73rd/Columbus), Joe (two locations, 68th/Columbus and 85th/Columbus), Solid State (71st/Columbus), Mast (77th/Columbus), Sote Roasters (75th/Amsterdam)

What am I missing? Please feel free to share your own local favorites.

Reminder: All the fun stuff these days happens in the Dinner: A Love Story newsletter on Substack, which is consistently in the Top 10 most-read food newsletters on the entire platform. You can subscribe here.

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Greetings eaters and readers. Today, I’d like to get back to basics a bit, and present a recipe for my Potato Salad with Green Goodies. It’s one of those why-didn’t-I-think-of-this-before kind of dishes that I accidentally discovered after leftover potato salad and leftover spring vegetables ended up getting along famously in the same Tupperware container.

Here are the kind of people who will like it:

*People who appreciate streamlining: Why make two separate dressings for two separate salads?

*People who don’t like mayo-based potato salads

*People who are in charge of bringing a side dish to the cookout or potluck

*People who like pretty things (I mean, look how pretty!)

*People who want a fresh, veg-forward dish to go alongside a grilled meaty main such as Sausage Rolls with Onions and Peppers, Spiced Yogurt-Marinated Chicken, BBQ Ribs, or Pork Tenderloin with Peaches. Or, if you’re not grilling, alongside the Crispy Fish Sandwiches with Viet Pickle shown in this photo.

Are you one of these people? Head over to Substack for the recipe.

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A few months ago, during the holidays, when my whole family was under the same roof at the same time — a somewhat miraculous feat these days — I told the girls to save the next night for dinner at home. It was December in New York, so we were all being pulled in different directions, and I wanted to make sure we carved out some time to sit down together, eat good homemade food, and be, you know, intentionalabout it. That morning, I pulled up the mega-popular Oven-Roasted Shawarma recipe on my NYT Cooking app, threw some chicken thighs into the two-minute marinade, and went about my day.

Then the texts started coming in. “Mom, is it ok if Frankie comes for dinner too?” Yes of course, I texted back. Remembering that Frankie was gluten-free and dairy-free, I did some shawarma calculations. Yup, she can have the chicken, but not the pita or the yogurt-based tzatziki-inspired salad I was planning to make alongside. I’ll just do rice instead. And maybe I’ll separate the cucumbers out from the yogurt sauce? Yes. Easy. A few hours later, another text arrived while I was running in the park. “Mommmmmmm! Sydney is coming, too.” OK! On the way home I picked up another few chicken thighs, and wedged them into the marinade. But I also had this thought: There are chickpeas at home, and I could very easily chuck those on the baking sheet with the chicken and just go vegetarian myself. I quick-pickled an onion, then didn’t really think about cooking again until close to dinner time.

The meal was a success — owing mostly to the sparkling presence of our guests — but also because it’s impossible for me not to see recipes through my Dinner-A-Love-Story goggles, and as I piled my plate high with goodies, I realized I was in the presence of a spread that checked every box on the Ideal DALS Dinner Party Menu:

• Easy to execute, i.e. does not eat up my entire day
• Flexible for all diets including vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, dairy-free 
• Mostly make-ahead
• Visually beautiful, look at those colors! 
• Comforting, not fussy 
• Unbelievably high ROI in the flavor department, i.e. stunningly DELICIOUS
  

Since that night, I have served some version of this dinner to friends at least a half dozen times, rounding out the chicken with my now solidified rotation of salads and toppings based on who is coming over, what they eat and what they don’t eat. All the recipes are included in a downloadable PDF over on Substack, which reminds me of those mix-and-match “Seven Pieces, Endless Outfits” fashion features that use to run in magazines. You can pretty much find a combination that suits anyone for any occasion.

Head over to Substack to subscribe and continue reading…

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Happy Near Year, Readers and Eaters!

Just wanted to let you know that I’m heading up a 2025 Weekday Vegetarian challenge over on Substack this month. The first week’s meal plan went out just after the new year, but you can start any time you want all year long. Every Friday in January, subscribers will receive a meal plan with five hand-picked-by-me nourishing vegetarian dinners that you can cook the following week (like that Smoky Black Bean Bowl with Tomato Rice shown above). Plus shopping list! Maybe you’ll only make four of them each week…or maybe you’ll only make one. Either way, congratulations! You’ve won the first battle: Deciding to start. This is all I ever hoped to accomplish with my Weekday Vegetarians book series: Meeting people where they are and dispensing zero judgment.

Here’s What to Expect

You’ll find a range of recipes in each week’s dispatch — I’ll never give you three straight nights of pastas or beans. There will be a healthy mix of everything: egg-based and tofu-based dishes, sandwiches, tacos, robust dinner salads and soups, and “large format” recipes like casseroles, enchiladas, and lasagnas. There will also be recipe cameos from my favorite food people, like Meera Sodha, Ali Stafford, and Yasmin Fahr.

I wish I could say that every single one of these recipes will be an under-30-minute, no-fuss, one-pot, crowd-pleasing undertaking. Many will be like that — so easy you’ll wonder why you even need an official recipe for it — but the truth is, some will require a little advance planning and maybe even breaking out a blender on a weeknight. I’ll always be upfront about this, just check the “degree of annoyance” rating on each recipe as you plan.

Shopping List FYI

Like all of my previous Substack meal plans, I’ve included your shopping list, but unlike previous meal plans, I’ve organized the shopping list by recipe (instead of by aisle, produce, pantry, etc) so if you decide to make, say, three of the five, it will be easy to figure out which ingredients you need and which ones you don’t.

Some of the recipes will call for a salad on the side or a hunk of crusty bread. You’ll find suggestions for those side dishes in a separate attached PDF called Simple Sides. Your weekly shopping list will not include ingredients for those side dishes. You’ll have to decide what you want and add to your shopping list accordingly.

Lastly

Don’t get too hung-up on the Monday-to-Friday “weekday” thing — just aim for more vegetarian dinners than not over the course of seven days, whether they happen on Tuesday or Sunday or whenever. And if you want a little crash course on vegetarian family dinners, here are a few tips.

Sample Recipe

Smoky Black Beans with Tomato Rice and Limey Avocado Chunks
Degree of Annoyance: Medium-Low (easy to make, but involves a bunch of pots)
Suggested Sides: None

1 1/2 cups vegetable broth or water
3 tablespoons tomato paste, divided
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 cup white or jasmine rice, rinsed under cold water
3 tablespoons neutral oil (or olive oil in a pinch)
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
pinch of cayenne
3 cups cooked black beans (1/2 cup cooking liquid reserved) or 2 (15-ounce) cans, drained and rinsed
2 cups shredded red cabbage (about 5 ounces)
2 avocados, chunked
juice from one fresh lime

Suggested Toppings: Sour cream, shredded cheddar, cilantro

Make Rice: Whisk together broth (or water), 2 tablespoons tomato paste, and oregano. In a medium saucepan combine tomato-broth and rice and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer, then cover and cook 15-20 minutes (or according to package directions).

Meanwhile, make beans: In a medium pot, combine the oil, onion, salt and pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring until the onion is soft, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, remaining 1 tablespoon tomato paste, smoked paprika, cumin, and cayenne, stirring everything together and allowing the tomato paste to sizzle and toast for about a minute. Toss in the beans and reserved bean cooking liquid (or 1/4 cup water if using canned beans) and heat until everything has warmed through and the beans have soaked in the spices, about 5 to 10 minutes. (The beans should be slightly stewy; if they aren’t add a little more water to loosen them up.)

Make vegetables: In a medium serving bowl, combine avocado and cabbage and gently toss with lime juice and salt. (You can also toss in separate bowls if you think your diners will want one and not the other. Just divide the lime juice between the two bowls if so.)

Divide the rice and beans among four bowls and top with avocado-cabbage and any desired toppings.

See how easy? Ready to start the challenge?

Head over to Substack to subscribe and get the Meal Plan for Week 1, Week 2, and Week 3.

See you there!

Jenny

For more simple vegetarian recipes, check out my New York Times bestselling book The Weekday Vegetarians or the follow-up: The Weekday Vegetarians: Get Simple.

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Hello faithful blog readers. Can I tell you how much I love that you are still here, almost 15 years after I wrote my first post ever on the Dinner: A Love Story blog? Honestly, sometimes I can’t believe it myself. But then I think about my dinner table and how much it has evolved over the course of that period — from feeding my little grade schoolers to being an empty nester to taking care of our aging parents to pulling up a chair for our kids’ grown-up friends — and it makes sense. Dinner, no matter what form it takes, no matter who I am feeding, will always be my love language.

And just the way dinner evolves, so does the way I write about it. As we head into the holidays, I wanted to remind you that my recipes and essays are almost entirely appearing on Substack these days. I’ll post a recipe here on the blog every now and then, but if you subscribe to my newsletter, you’ll get access to recipe indexes, vacation itineraries (including New York, Lisbon, Kiawah Island, Maine), dispatches on my move from the suburbs to the city, complete menu plans for entertaining, not to mention bonus recipes like the coziest Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie I make all winter long, My Big Giant Reset Dinner, plus the occasional Monday-to-Friday meal plan and Zoom Talk with bestselling authors.

I’m proud to say that the Dinner: A Love Story newsletter is consistently ranked one of the Top 10 food newsletters on ALL of Substack.

You can explore all membership plans (including the free one) here, and if you know someone who is interested in eating and living well, perhaps consider giving my newsletter as a gift. You can do that right here.

I have so much excellent bonus content planned for 2025 that I do not want you to miss — including a fun challenge involving my Weekday Vegetarians book series! I hope to see you on Substack.

Thanks, as always for the support.

Jenny

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Maybe it’s because I’ve been wearing my Operation Connect Goggles all the time lately, but when I flipped through Luisa Weiss’s new book Classic German Cooking last week, my first impulse was to invite someone over for dinner and serve them a pot of Linsensuppe Mit Pflaumen (Lentil Soup with Sausage and Prunes) or Wiener Servietteenknödel Mit Pilzgulasch (Bread Dumplings with Mushroom Goulash) or Käsespätzle (Swabian Noodles with Mountain Cheese and Caramelized Onions), then maybe spoon up some Bratäpfel Bit Vanillesobe (Almond-Stuffed Baked Apples with Vanilla Sauce) for dessert. Every photo, every recipe, seemed to shout “Make this for someone who needs to be taken care of…”

It turns out, when it comes to German food, my instinct was not that unusual. As Luisa writes in the introduction, “German food doesn’t hold the same romantic allure as Italian or French food…and yet, to so many, German food is the purest kind of comfort food. It is simple and hearty, the kind of cooking one turns to in the depths of winter to warm the very soul, the type of cooking that might not ever win a beauty award, but that will more than make up for it in terms of its power to nourish and comfort.” 

Classic German Cooking is a collection of “the essential everyday recipes of Germany and Austria” and it is every bit as approachable and well-written as its 2016 companion, Luisa’s Classic German Baking. (Think Apfelkuchen and Pfeffernüsse; Sachertortes and Linzertortes! Am I killing you here?) It just so happens that Luisa, who lives in Berlin, was in town last night promoting the book and not that she needs anyone to mother her, but who better to invite over for one of those cozy dinners than the author herself, in the middle of a thousand-mile book tour?

Not that I needed much of an excuse to invite her over — anyone who reads her wonderful newsletter knows how much fun it is to hear what she’s cooking and reading — remember that time she shared every single book she read in 2022? I decided to make her Erbseneintopf, or Thick Pea Stew, with leeks, bacon, split peas, marjoram, and Wiener Würstchen, and end with the Almond-Stuffed Apples. When Luisa left she thanked me for making her childrens’ most requested dinner, which I count as a win.

Thick Pea Stew (Erbseneintoph)
From Classic German Cooking, by Luisa Weiss
Serves 4

From Luisa: This is my mother-in-law’s Erbsensuppe recipe, a classic German Eintopf if you ever saw one. It’s thick and satisfying; all you need with this is a crusty roll to clean the plate. While pea soups abound all over the world, in Germany they are usually associated with Berlin, historically a working-class city where thrifty but filling meals have always been essential. Aschinger’s, an institution at Berlin’s Zoo Station for decades, was famous for its cheap pea soup and free Brötchen.

Traditional Berlin pea soup used to be made with Eisbein (salted pork knuckle), but nowadays a bit of Schinkenspeck or even a thick slice of Kassler (cured, smoked pork loin, available at German butchers) will do (if you use Kassler, add it with the broth, then take it out at the end of cooking, shred it, and return it to the pot and mix well). In Germany, you use Suppengrün, that bundle of leek, carrots, and celery root sold at every grocery store, as the backbone of the soup. Marjoram is the classic herb to use; I think of it as the oregano of the north. It pairs beautifully with the rich porky flavor of the Schinkenspeck and the savory aromas of the Suppengrün.

If you happen to have some raw Sauerkraut on hand, try serving the pea soup with a forkful of it on top. The sour, crunchy cabbage is a great counterpoint to the creamy, hearty soup. Serve with crusty rolls.

3 Tbsp olive oil or vegetable oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1/3 cup / 50g minced Speck or lean bacon
1 leek, root and dark green part trimmed, chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and diced
1-inch / 2.5cm thick slice of celery root, peeled and cut into small dice
2 tsp dried marjoram
1 tsp salt, plus more as needed
Freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups / 300g dried split green peas
5 to 6 cups / 1.1 to 1.4L vegetable or chicken broth
3 medium waxy potatoes, like Yukon Gold, peeled and diced
4 Wiener Würstchen or hot dogs, cut into bite-size rounds

Place the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion and Speck and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5minutes. Add the leek and stir well. Cook for another 5 minutes. Add the carrot and celery root and stir well. Cook for another 5 minutes. Add the marjoram, salt, and pepper.

Pour in the peas and the broth. Stir well and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.

Add the potatoes and stir well. Cook for another 20 minutes. The peas and potatoes should be soft and tender. Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

4 When the soup is ready, take it off the heat and stir in the Würstchen. Let sit for a few minutes, until the Würstchen are warmed through, then serve.

P.S. Remember Luisa’s German Marble Cake?

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I have such a crush on Carolina Gelen. And I have ever since my daughter forwarded me her hugely popular instagram account during the pandemic a few years ago, writing only “omg you will love her.” My daughter knows me very well.

Carolina grew up in Transylvania, cooking by her mother’s side, and following a very tracked career path in computer science until a passion for cooking derailed her plans and led her to various restaurant jobs in the US. She gained an enormous following during the pandemic thanks to her charming, sun-filled reels, swooshing fresh breads through runny eggs, shoving spoonfuls of creamy soups and chocolate-drizzled desserts straight into the camera, twisting her lips and widening her eyeballs, and in general creating an energy one might call addictive. Now, lucky us, Carolina has a book out, called Pass the Plate, and she was nice enough to let me share one of the recipes, this Butter Beans Alla Vodka. The beans are signature Carolina: comforting, familiar, and clever without being cute. I love this book.

Butter Beans alla Vodka
From Pass the Plate, by Carolina Gelen
From Carolina: Who doesn’t love an easy meal you can whip up after a long day with ingredients you already have in your kitchen? This saucy, comforting bean dish stew is just that. In a world where beans become brownies, pastas, and burgers, serving them whole with a pasta sauce feels rebellious. And don’t skip the garlic-rubbed toast! It really ties everything together. Whether you’re sharing this or not, I love making a whole batch. The simmered leftovers topped with a fried egg are really something to look forward to the next day.
Serves 4 | Prep Time: 15 minutes | Cook Time: 25 minutes | Total Time: 40 minutes

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium shallots, finely chopped
2 heaping tablespoons tomato paste
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon red chile flakes
2 tablespoons vodka or water
2 (15-ounce) cans butter beans or lima beans, drained and rinsed (see Note)
1 cup heavy cream or full-fat coconut milk
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
4 tablespoons unsalted butter (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For Serving

Sliced crusty bread, such as ciabatta, sourdough bread, or any country loaf
1 garlic clove, halved
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Grated Parmesan cheese
Red chile flakes
Chopped fresh parsley leaves (optional)

In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until translucent and softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and darkened to a burgundy color, another 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to mediumlow and add the garlic and chile flakes. Cook, stirring constantly, until the garlic is softened and fragrant, just a minute or so. Add the vodka and stir, letting the liquid help you scrape up any bits from the bottom of the pan.

Add the beans, cream, and 1/2 cup water. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a healthy simmer, about medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced and looks smooth and glossy, 15 to 20 minutes. Add a splash or two of water to thin the sauce if desired.

Stir in the Parmesan, butter (if using), and a hefty pinch of salt and pepper. Remove the pot from the heat.

To serve: Toast the bread as desired and rub all over with the cut side of the garlic clove. Serve the beans hot with a drizzle of olive oil. Top with more grated Parmesan, chile flakes, and parsley (if using). Serve the garlicky toast on the side.

Note: If you can’t get your hands on butter (or lima) beans, garbanzo or Great Northern beans will work just as well.

Photo by Nico Schinco.

Reminder: All the fun stuff these days happens in the Dinner: A Love Story newsletter on Substack, which is consistently in the Top 10 most-read food newsletters on the entire platform. You can subscribe here.

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