diploconcierge

Tips for a Visit to Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City

2017-04-02T09:27:00.000-04:00

Saigon, or Ho Chi Minh City?

Both. Ho Chi Minh City is the official name of the city previously officially known as Sai Gon, or Saigon, and it seems most locals continue to refer to their city as Sai Gon. I'm told by a reliable source that the central business district of the city is still officially called Sai Gon. It may be best, though, for visitors to err on the side of formality and refer to the city as Ho Chi Minh City.

Here's a link to a short article on the topic, which may be of interest:

https://www.tripsavvy.com/where-is-saigon-1458405

Visa requirements

Americans need a visa in order to enter Việt Nam, or Vietnam (the Vietnamese refer to their country as Việt Nam, but it seems the preferred way to write the name of their country in English is Vietnam. For more on this, check out: https://www.quora.com/Is-it-Vietnam-or-Viet-Nam).

E-visas and visas on arrival are options, as well as the old-fashioned way of obtaining a visa via one of Vietnam's embassies or consulates.

Americans may wish to consult the following sites for further details about entry requirements for Vietnam:

https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/vietnam.html

https://www.immigration.gov.vn/

https://vn.usembassy.gov/u-s-citizen-traveling-vietnam/

Do I need vaccinations?

It seems the main health concerns for travelers here are mosquito-borne ailments, including malaria and dengue, so travelers may wish to bring their favorite mosquito-repellent. However, here's a link to what the experts recommend in terms of vaccinations:

http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/vietnam

May I bring prescription medication with me?

Here's a link to comprehensive expert advice for Americans traveling to Vietnam, which seems to indicate no problem for bringing personal prescription medication to Vietnam:

https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/vietnam.html

What's the weather like?

It's usually hot and humid, tropical. The rainy season is usually from May/June to November.

Getting to and around town

When you arrive at Tan Son Nhat Airport, it shouldn't be a problem getting a taxi from the taxi stand. You should assume that the taxi will only take cash for payment, although many may accept credit and debit cards. Best to get some cash from the ATM before you get in the taxi. It shouldn't cost more than about VND 200,000, or about $10 to get from the airport to Districts 1, 2, or 3.

You might also try booking airport transfers and other local/ground transportation via your hotel.

In general, in terms of getting around HCMC I've been happy with Grab.

And among the more reliable taxi companies I've used here are  Vinasun and Mai Linh - both of which have apps.

What to do

Shop - Among my favorite brands here are Mekong Quilts, Marou chocolate (see below, where to eat), and Minh Long porcelain gifts;

Visit a museum - There are many museums in HCMC worth visiting, maybe none more important than the War Remnants Museum. Brace yourself, because the tragedy and horror of war on display is overwhelming, and I visited after they had removed the actual deformed fetuses preserved in jars and only showed photos of them and other awful reminders of the cost of war.

Check out the historic, beaux arts Saigon Post Office

See a show - You might want to catch an A&O acrobatic, cultural show at the beautiful Opera House, in the center of town.

Where to Eat

There are many good restaurants, cafes, and bakeries around. Here are some special favorites in Districts 1 and 2.

District 1:

Marou Chocolate - Artisanal chocolate, not to be missed. An exquisite blend of Vietnam, where the cacao is sourced, and the West, which inspired the chocolate-making technique Marou uses.

Ngoc Chau Garden - Comfortable (indoor, tables and chairs of the height and size that Westerners are accustomed to, and air conditioned) Vietnamese restaurant, offering a wide assortment of delicious, filling dishes. Soft shell crab, fried rice, and sauteed morning glory are among my spouse's and my favorites. Centrally located, near the Bitexco Tower.

Vietnam House - Luxury Vietnamese restaurant near the Opera House.

Here are a couple favorite restaurants for Western dishes:

Pasteur Street Brewery - Cozy, relaxed comfort food pub, highlighting craft beer.

Chanh Bistro Rooftop - Delicious Western food, friendly service, comfortable, if a bit industrial design. Across from the Bitexco Tower. The set menus are good value - there are a couple different set menus, though: one that is very good value and seems geared toward the portion sizes locals and I prefer, and one that is still good value if quite a bit pricier and that seems geared toward the portion sizes many Westerners might prefer.

District 2:

Although located across the river and a bit of a ways from D1, here are some favorite places that are worth a visit even if you'll be based in D1. If you'll be staying in D2, all the better to try these places out.

Sweet + Sour - Best bakery I know of in Vietnam, and maybe anywhere. It's not just the buttery sweet aroma you encounter when you enter the shop, but the decor and all the baked goods are cheerful, beautiful, and appetizing. Perhaps my most happy place in HCMC. In addition to the mini- and regular-size cupcakes, there are mini-cakes, full cakes, wonderful little tartlets, cinnamon rolls, banana bread loaves, and many cookies and candies. And there are espresso-based beverages, as well as champagne, to wash it all down with!

Trois Gourmands - A good place for special occasions, and worth the visit to D2 even if staying in D1 or farther afield. As the name suggests, this is a French restaurant whose owner/operators have a passion for food. The restaurant is the main floor of a stately home on a relatively quiet lane in Thao Dien. The presentation and taste of the food and wine my spouse and I ordered were pleasing. Service was friendly, even sophisticated. The cheese plate is very generous! Prices are high, in my view, but all-around good value for the whole experience.

Gardenia - Especially if travelling with small kids, this is a great family spot with a playground, good food and drinks, and friendly service. There's also seating away from the playground, for those who want a quieter space. The menu features Italian cuisine, and includes Vietnamese dishes.

Where to stay

District 1, the center of town:

Hotel des Arts:  My favorite place to stay in HCMC.  Beautiful, Accor-managed boutique hotel with a lovely blend of Vietnamese and Western design.  Even if you don't stay here, the restaurant is worth a visit, if you're looking for Western comfort food in casually upscale surroundings, and the rooftop bar is renowned.

Caravelle - Where I stayed on my first visit to Ho Chi Minh City, in the late 2000s. Comfortable, reasonably-priced spot in the center of town, across from the Opera House, but the thing that stands out most for me is the perfection of the danishes here, at breakfast. Sublime.

Park Hyatt - Luxury, true five-star major-brand property in the center of town, and, like the Caravelle, across the street from the Opera House. Even if you decide not to stay here, afternoon or anytime tea is worth trying in the luxuriously cozy lobby.

Intercontinental Hotel - Tasteful, Asian inspired classically modern design. Good executive club - friendly staff, good food and drink, spacious rooms. If you don't stay here but want a delicious, reasonably priced Vietnamese lunch in comfortable surroundings, pop in for lunch in the lobby bar.

District 2, the 'burbs:

Riverside - If you're travelling with small kids, this is a great place to stay. Good food at the on-site restaurant, a playground, pool, and daily housekeeping service, as well as a laundry room that guests can use, and a weight room help make this a comfortable place to stay for a family.

Villa Song - Haven't yet stayed here, but heard its beautiful and was going to be one of the places I checked out, but fell in love with Hotel des Arts and didn't want to stay elsewhere, until I traveled with my small kids, in which case Riverside was the better option, since Villa Song seems more geared toward couples.

Farther afield

Some ideas for excursions/side-trips outside of Ho Chi Minh City:

Phu Quoc - Reminds me of Thailand's Phuket - resort island, beaches, relax. The JW Marriott is luxurious and Alice in Wonder-ish, which may appeal to some. There are also Accor properties on the island and properties not affiliated with an international brand. Phu Quoc is a short flight away from Ho Chi Minh City.

Con Dao - Six Senses - I've heard from reliable sources that this is the best resort in all of Vietnam. I hope to find out, myself, one of these days. It's a short flight away from Ho Chi Minh City.

Phan Thiet - Another resort town, this one's about a three-hour drive away from Ho Chi Minh City, I'm told. I believe there's also train service to get you there and back.

Da Lat - Charming, French hill station, a short flight away from Ho Chi Minh City. I've enjoyed staying at the cozy Dalat Palace Hotel, overlooking the lake in the center of town, and at the Ana Mandara, a comfortable, rustic property on the outskirts of town.

Tour operators/travel agencies

Here are some tour operators/travel agencies that may be able to assist you in planning your visit to Vietnam and around:

Terraverde

Journeys to the East

Blue Sky

Ninh Binh - Tam Coc

2016-04-07T01:57:00.002-04:00

Often referred to as the inland Ha Long Bay, Tam Coc - a short drive from Ninh Binh - provides an opportunity for visitors to marvel at the imposing limestone karsts in about half the time that it takes to get from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay by car (Ninh Binh is under two hours by car from Hanoi).

After searching Trip Advisor, we booked at the Vancouver Hotel, a family-run establishment in Ninh Binh, rated #1. The hotel's customer service executive, as his card reads, explained that the family just picked the name because it is easy for most people to say. I asked again, thinking maybe he or one of his family members might have studied in or otherwise visited Vancouver, but no. I thought better to leave it than to inquire further.

The establishment's entrance is down an alley, so easy to miss from the main road. But once you step into the compact hotel, you see that it appears to have been recently, thoughtfully renovated (and perhaps repurposed, as the frame appears to be of a typical narrow Vietnamese home with several floors). It is clean, bright, and orderly inside. The wifi, included in the room rate and available throughout the hotel, worked fine. The rooms were comfortable if a bit bland - a picture or two on the walls would add warmth. The ceiling's crown moldings were beautiful, tasteful.

Vancouver Hotel
No 01/75 Luong Van Tuy
Ninh Binh
+84 030 3893270
thevancouverhotel@gmail.com
www.thevancouverhotel.com

For lunch, the hotel recommended Dat Set restaurant, which, we were told, is familiar with Western tourists and offers the delicious local specialty Com Chay, which turns out to be savory sheets of puffed rice, served hot, accompanying a bowl of lamb stew. You break the rice sheets into smaller pieces and dip in the stew. The restaurant was a very casual establishment, with ample flies and litter strewn about. We were the only westerners. The server seemed to barely understand English. But she and the restaurant in general were friendly.

Dat Set restaurant
Pho 11 - P. Dong Thanh
0303 891 468
030 357 9222

After lunch, we set out on a tour of Tam Coc, which we had heard described as a sort of Disneyland attraction. And while the experience did have elements of a ride - a queue for small boats that guide you through a planned route in a loop, under three large karsts and back to the dock in about an hour or so. The journey is memorable. The somewhat narrow, shallow water way is bordered on either side by rice fields and, beyond them, more limestone formations. It's pretty, verdant scenery. I understood that those paddling the many boats - sometimes by their feet - are local villagers who, when not paddling around tourists are tending rice and embroidering.

Ninh Binh Local Tours
+84 912 984 935
ninhbinhlocaltours@gmail.com
ninhbinhlocaltours@yahoo.com

For dinner, also at the hotel's recommendation, we went to Chookie's, which we were told was owned by an Aussie and her Vietnamese spouse. We liked the cheerful vibe of the restaurant, which very much appears to cater to western expats, who seemed to make up the restaurant's entire clientele that evening. Various quotations extolling the virtues of travel, adventure adorn the neat, well maintained walls. The restaurant was nice and tidy. While the menu offered both western and Vietnamese specialties, I found the Vietnamese dishes (bun cha and fried spring rolls) a bit too westernized for my taste. The hamburger was delicious, as were the french fries. The chickpea burger - not so much.

Chookie's
17 Luong Van Tuy
Ninh Binh
+84 94 834 6026

Some other special places to stay near Ninh Binh include:

Tam Coc Garden

and

Emeralda Resort

Ha Long Bay

2015-10-01T21:29:00.000-04:00

This World Heritage Site, about three hours away from Hanoi by car, or a short, 45-minute flight from Hanoi by seaplane, is worth a visit.

We booked with Bhaya Cruises, and were not disappointed. One of the reasons we chose Bhaya was because of its reputation as being a leader in helping to preserve (or improve) the environmental quality of the bay. We've also heard good things about Emeraude Cruises, among many other companies from which you can choose.

I'd recommend visiting in the early spring or in the fall, to avoid the sticky heat of late spring or summer.

Our itinerary included a visit to a fishing village, in a small, uncovered boat; and to a large, very popular cave (lots of steps to climb to access the cave, and then hordes of other tourists to maneuver around inside).

It is true what I had heard about how the boats don't really go very far, and cluster around each other. But there was enough distance between our boat and the others that in the evenings, we could still relax and enjoy conversation on deck, with pleasant breezes, admiring the unusual limestone formations surrounding us.

Hoi An

2015-05-04T23:59:00.002-04:00

About a 30-minute car ride from Danang's airport, Hoi An reminds me of Ubud, Bali, in many charming ways. The center of Hoi An is laid-back, cozy even, with plenty of good restaurants, cafes, and shops to wander among.

Like Ubud, Hoi An is not far from the beach, so you could easily stay at one of the many beachfront properties in Danang, such as the Furama, Hyatt, Pullman, or others, and make a day trip (or day trips) to Hoi An.

On one visit, we stayed at a friendly place in Hoi An, sort of on the periphery of the center of that town. Alma Courtyard had just opened a few months before, and while they are still getting the staff trained up, there was much that the hotel was already getting right. The lobby of the spa was perfectly peaceful. I'm not so much in to spa treatments, and even though I tried a massage that was part of our rate package, I found that just sitting in the lobby was calming. The rooms were spacious, clean, and soothingly decorated, as was in fact the entire property. The food and beverage from each of the property's kitchens were delicious and presented well. Service was friendly and would have been even better if I spoke Vietnamese or if the staff spoke better English.

On another visit, we stayed at the tasteful, luxurious Nam Hai, right on the beach.

Among the restaurants we liked in Hoi An was the Cargo Club. I have to admit, the hotels were so comfortable that we didn't dine out very much.

Dining virtuously - STREETS, located at 17 Le Loi, is a wonderful restaurant in the heart of Hoi An, offering cheerful, attractive decor, delicious food, and reasonable prices. And by supporting STREETS, you are contributing to a great cause. The restaurant is a non-profit organization that aims to teach underprivileged kids skills in hospitality. Many of the servers and those working in the kitchen are kids from the street who might otherwise not have a way up. Many of the staff go on to high-end hotels and restaurants, making room for the next cohort.

Hoi An has a reputation for being a great place for tailoring, so my spouse and I set about getting suits made. There are certainly a number of tailors in town, so perhaps our experience was not indicative of tailoring there in general, but I think we found that as fast a turnaround time as our tailor offered, and as attractive as the price for the suits we ordered was, the quality just wasn't worth it in my view. I would urge caution.

Enchanting Hue

2015-02-23T03:22:00.001-05:00

The ancient imperial capital Hue, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is not to be missed. Vietnam Airlines has direct flights from Hanoi to Hue. A lovely place to stay there is the Accor-managed La Residence hotel. The property has the most beautifully presented art deco design I've ever seen. La Residence is comfortable base from which to explore the complex of Hue monuments, a short drive away from the hotel.

Some photos from our visit:

A gate to the Imperial City

View from the Queen Mother's veranda

Thien Mu Pagoda

An image from the Thien Mu Pagoda complex

Tips for a Visit to Hanoi

2015-02-02T03:00:00.000-05:00

Visa requirements

Americans need a visa in order to enter Vietnam. Americans may wish to consult this site for further details about entry requirements for Vietnam: https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/vietnam.html

E-visas are available for travel to Vietnam. Instructions and applications are available online, via https://www.immigration.gov.vn/ There are other e-visa services available, but they may be less reliable and more costly than going directly with the Government of Vietnam's process.

Nationals of other countries may wish to check with the Vietnamese embassy or consulate nearest to them for entry and exit requirements for Vietnam.

Do I need any vaccinations?

It seems the main health concerns for travelers here are mosquito-borne ailments, including malaria and dengue, so travelers may wish to bring their favorite mosquito-repellent. However, here's a link to what the experts recommend in terms of vaccinations:

http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/vietnam

May I bring prescription medication with me?

Here's a link to comprehensive expert advice for Americans traveling to Vietnam, which seems to indicate no problem for bringing personal prescription medication to Vietnam: https://travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/country/vietnam.html

What's the weather like?

Travelers may wish to consult their favorite weather site for up-to-date information about and forecasts for the weather in Hanoi. One such site might include this one:
http://www.timeanddate.com/weather/vietnam/hanoi

Getting to town and around

If arriving from an international flight, you'll arrive at the fairly new Noi Bai Airport, about 35 -45 minutes away from the Hoan Kiem Lake area.

Grab a taxi from the stand outside of the arrivals hall; should cost about VD 400,000, or about $20, to get to the Hoan Kiem Lake area, where the Metropole and the Hanoi Opera House are also landmarks.

Uber operates here, sometimes making getting around town comfortable and affordable. Many of the Uber vehicles I've been in have been Toyota Camrys, but there are also Kias and Honda CRVs serving as Uber black vehicles. UberX is also here. But don't get your hopes up too much. I've had enough disappointments with Uber that I'd just as soon hail a taxi from the street. Taxis are plentiful and very reasonably priced - just make sure the meter's on and keep an eye on it to make sure it's working right.

Hanoi Taxi Group is great, and they have an app that I have found to be much more reliable than Uber.

House guests have told me that Hanoi Transfer Service is very good. You can book online, and rates appear to be very reasonable.

Where to stay

The legendary Metropole Hotel, near scenic Hoan Kiem Lake and the old quarter. Doesn't get better than this for luxurious accommodations in Hanoi.

Hilton Opera House, also near Hoan Kiem Lake, and adjacent to the Opera House.

The award-winning JW Marriott, a bit of a trek from the city center, but worth the journey. Designed by an American architect who sought to evoke the Vietnamese legend of the dragon and the fairy, and I believe succeeded.

There are a number of budget, but (I've heard) still comfortable, hotels around, including The Conifer, near Hoan Kiem Lake, and the various Essence Hotels around the Old Quarter.

What to do

Take a tour. You may wish to consider:

- Sophie's Art Tour

- Electric Cart Tour of Hanoi's Old Quarter

- Hanoi Street Food Tour

- Day Tours Hanoi

Relax at Anam QT Spa, in the Old Quarter (42 Hang Trong)

Stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake

Visit the Old Quarter

Check out Art Vietnam, a modern art gallery near the cathedral, steps away from Hang Gai Street, one of the main expat shopping streets in the old quarter.

Explore the Museum of Ethnology. This is a bit of a trek from Hoan Kiem Lake, but worth a visit. The museum has two main buildings - the older one, designed to resemble a drum, focuses specifically on Vietnam and its people. The newer building houses a collection of art from throughout Southeast Asia. You can also wander around the extensive grounds of the property and discover examples of ancient Vietnamese housing structures and medicinal plants. Plus, at certain times, you can watch water puppet shows. There is a stand-alone cafe on the premises.

The Women's Museum is a beautifully maintained museum, conveniently located in Central Hanoi. Worth a visit.

Visit the Temple of Literature, an ancient complex dedicated to learning, knowledge.

Try egg coffee, a delightful concoction that tastes kind of like tiramisu.

Take in a water puppet show.

Experience Thanh Chuong's Viet Palace, a wonderland of Vietnamese art and traditional design on the outskirts of Hanoi.

Where to shop

I'd recommend spending an hour or two strolling down Hang Gai Street, near Hoan Kiem Lake. You'll come across three lovely stores: Khai Silk, Tan My Design, and Hanoi Moment - each of which offers handsomely presented and packaged higher-end products from Vietnam, in attractive spaces. You'll find scarves and ties at Khai Silk, all kinds of home wares, clothing, and gifts at Tan My Design, and home wares and gifts at Hanoi Moment. Across the street from Tan My Design is Tan My's embroidery shop, featuring beautiful clothing and accessories, as well as bed linens, napkins, and related items, at very good value.

Shopping virtuously:

Mekong Quilts - A non-profit organization that helps women bring their beautiful crafts to market.

Craft Link - Another non-profit organization that helps women bring their beautiful crafts to market. These crafts include scarves, beads, greeting cards, home decor items, iPad covers, purses, and the like.

Where to eat

Home (near Ho Tay/West Lake), Ngon Villa, Ly Club (near the Opera House), and Madame Hien (Old Quarter) offer Vietnamese fare in casually elegant surroundings, as do Wild Rice, Club Opera, and Club de l'Oriental, among others. There are also any number of much more casual local restaurants and cafes around the capital, including Cha Ca La Vong, featuring the famous fish cutlets fried at your table. A new favorite of mine is La Verticale, where you can savor excellent French cuisine in an attractive French colonial space at very reasonable prices.

Metropole - Their French restaurant, Le Beaulieu, is charming. They have an ample, decadent weekend brunch. Spices Garden offers delicious Vietnamese-French cuisine. Angelina, the upscale Italian restaurant and bar (yes, named, I understand, after Ms. Jolie) is much improved from my earlier visit - I understand there's a new chef. I love their risottos, especially the pumpkin risotto.

Casa Italia - Great little neighborhood restaurant/cultural center. The predominant theme of the place is the Vespa. The fare is delicious and not exorbitantly priced. The pizzas are all right, the daily specials are often interesting and delicious, and the desserts are pretty good. They're open most days (including Sundays and most holidays), from 9am - 9pm.

Speaking of Italian cuisine, my new favorite spot is Mamma Mia, also in the Hoan Kiem district, near the Old Quarter. World-class, unpretentious dining experience, from start to finish.

French Grill - Located in the beautiful JW Marriott, a bit of a hike from central Hanoi (maybe 40 minutes away from Hoan Kiem), French Grille is extraordinarily good. Their set menu showcases the best of French cuisine, artfully presented.

Farther afield

Ha Long Bay, about a three hour's drive from Ha Noi, is worth a visit. Altogether, it's about a two-day trip - you leave Ha Noi in the morning, explore the bay in the afternoon, overnight on a boat, explore a bit more in the morning, and then you're back in Ha Noi later that afternoon. More information about visiting the World Heritage Site is available here.

Alternatively, there's Tam Coc - the inland Ha Long Bay, just a two-hour drive from Hanoi.

Hue and Hoi An are also worth a visit, if you have the time. Each city is about an hour's flight from Ha Noi. For more information about visiting Hue, click here. For more information about Hoi An, click here.

Tour operators/Travel agencies

You may wish to consider any of the following tour operators/travel agencies to assist in making your travel plans and booking tours:

Haivenu Tours

Journeys to the East

EXO Travel

Buffalo Tours

Beijing: Notes From a First-Time Visitor

2014-10-06T22:05:00.002-04:00

Check it out!
http://www.amazon.com/Beijing-Notes-From-First-Time-Visitor/dp/147810936X

Architect of Icons

2012-06-20T03:02:00.001-04:00

My earliest memories of Apple computers were of beige consoles with green screens. My classmates and I would go to our school's computer lab for scheduled time to become acquainted with the technology. We practiced limited programming with Logo, or at least I think that was the name of the software. We learned to make shapes on the screen by typing in certain commands. Forward 10, Left 20, and so on. Several of us tried rendering our school's house-shape logo in pixels. Little did we know then the impact that computers in general and Apple and its ubiquitous products in particular would have on our lives and the world.

Walter Isaacson's biography of Steve Jobs, the enigmatic personality behind the company that gave us the iconic iPods, iPads and other revolutionary products and experiences is insightful, fair and elegantly written. Isaacson's prose and descriptions are accessible to those of us more experienced as consumers as opposed to innovators of technology. And he is fair to the protagonist - a complicated person, to put it mildly. Jobs and his spouse made it clear, Isaacson reveals, that they didn't want the biographer to sugarcoat anything. The author reports that as Jobs lay dying during their last interview, Jobs suspected that there would be parts of the book that he wouldn't like, and Isaacson, whom Jobs specifically asked to be his biographer, agreed. In that scene, one imagines a wise, loving father being honest with a son he respects too much to engage in dissembling, even as the latter has one foot in the grave.

It is not hard to see why some people hated Jobs. As is described and repeated to a nearly comical extent by the end of the story, Jobs's first reaction to a new idea was often "this is shit" (did he suffer from Asperger's, one wonders?). He didn't tolerate "B-team" players, actively ensuring that he had the smartest, most dedicated people working for him. Those who were not A-team were summarily shown the door. He initially abandoned his eldest daughter - when he was the same age that his parents were when they put him up for adoption. He maintained, as Isaacson and others described, a "reality distortion field," selectively refusing to accept things as they were, and instead willing them with the full force of his personality to be as he wanted them to be. "It can't be done" was never an acceptable reply. Some people were intimidated, others motivated, by Jobs's style.

But where his ability to bend reality to his will was effective in his professional life, it likely caused Jobs's early death from cancer. When the disease was first discovered in his body, by chance, immediate surgery to remove the tumor might have saved his life. But over the pleas of his doctors and spouse, he waited many months, preferring to try more homeopathic, non-invasive therapies, convinced he could beat the disease on his terms. By the time he decided on surgery, the cancer had metastasized.

Jobs wasn't sure what happened after death - whether there was a spiritual afterlife, or whether life and consciousness were like an on-off switch, which he asserts might have been a reason for his veto of such buttons on Apple's products. Given his intimate involvement in the creation of his company's iconic devices, I, and I suspect other readers of Isaacson's work, can't help but admire the architect.

The Road Less Traveled

2012-05-02T03:57:00.000-04:00

For my last evening in London, I was torn about what I should see - something familiar or something new? A well-known European opera at Covent Garden or a lesser-known play at the National Theater? I boarded the underground train in the morning, hoping to purchase a reduced-priced ticket for a show later that evening. I headed in the general direction of the two venues, still undecided.

As I weighed the pros and cons of each prospect, I resolved to try something new. By that time, I had alighted at the Covent Garden station and walked somewhat longingly by the Royal Opera House - a beloved venue I frequented often as a student in the UK. It was where I developed an appreciation for opera and ballet. But I kept on, to the National Theater.

Londoner friends told me about Moon On a Rainbow Shawl, which they hadn't yet seen, but about which they had heard positive reviews. The play was about Trinidadians - a people I know relatively little about, but with whom I suspected I had something in common as a fellow person of African descent. I was curious and bought a ticket.

When I returned to the theater that evening, I kept looking around for the Cottesloe Theater - one of three theaters that comprise the National Theater complex - where the play would be performed. I asked an usher, who directed me outside of the main building, to the right and then another right. Why did the play about black folks have to be around the way, in the back? I'm sure they had their reasons, which probably had nothing to do with race, but still, the optics weren't good.

It was an intimate space, and the set was evocative of a poor, dreary neighborhood in the developing world. There might as well have been chickens running around. The play centered around four main characters who live in the same compound: a middle-age prostitute bon vivant who likes to entertain yankee soldiers in the evening, flirt with male neighbors, and antagonize female neighbors; a thirtysomething man who drives a trolley and is set on immigrating to the UK; his girlfriend, who loves him and who somewhat naively leads her boss on, provoking jealousy from her boyfriend; and an upright, hardscrabble matron who more or less presides over the group, trying but failing to keep everyone together, except for the woman of the night whom she wants to remove from the compound.

The premise of the play reminded me of A Raisin in the Sun, or Good Times: hard-working poor folks trying to make a better life for themselves and their children, but seemingly stymied at every turn. The trolley driver persists with his plan to move to the UK, to get out of the impoverished and impoverishing ghetto, forsaking his friends, lover and their unborn child. What will become of him? And if he finds success, whatever that means for him, will the price have been worth it? The characters live such a precarious existence, with apparently such little control over their destiny, that breaking away, as awful as it may be in terms of relationship costs, might be the only way to a better future.

The production is on through the beginning of June at the National Theater
National Theatre, South Bank, London. SE1 9PX
Box Office 020 7452 3000
http://www.nationaltheatre.org.uk/?lid=68377

Downton Revisited

2012-04-22T23:52:00.002-04:00

Posted on the entrance gate, before entering the gravel walkway that leads to Highclere Castle, was an invitation from The Today Show for Americans visiting the home made famous by the Downton Abbey television series to get in touch. I gave it a thought and decided I wasn't interested. After all, what would I say? Why was I - a black guy from Detroit - interested in Downton? Would they think I was "taking the piss," putting them on?

As the palatial abode came into view, it looked every bit as I expected it would from my earlier, virtual visits - from the outside at least. The structure, designed by Charles Barry, the same architect responsible for the iconic Houses of Parliament, in London, was remarkable, with its spires, intricate stonework carvings and other details.

Inside, the home seemed smaller and much less plush. The stone work, old books, paintings and tapestries on the ground floor were impressive. But along the balustrades, on the second floor, there was common-looking furniture, the surfaces of which resembled the faux wood paneling popularly used in basements in the 1970s and 80s, placed as a barrier between visitors and the railing. In the bedrooms, the silk wall coverings have frayed, and other furnishings appeared worn, shabby. There were paperback books stacked here and there - one, I noticed, was Tom Wolfe's A Man in Full. The photographs, some including the Queen over the years, were in frames that you might find at Target (or in my home). As a British friend reminded me, these estates are incredibly expensive to maintain.

Jackdaw's Castle

It was the grounds to which I was most attracted, in the end. Extensive lawns surround the stately home, and offer quiet walks, during which one can encounter Jackdaw's Castle - a petite structure with Corinthian columns, constructed in the 18th century, perched on a small hill. You can also hear the medium-pitched baa of sheep, which are plentiful in the outer perimeter of the estate. And there are various gardens, one of which boasts an ancient aqueduct-looking structure as though from Roman times. I soaked it all up for over an hour.

baa

With two hours left before my train, I walked back to the Today Show sign and contacted the producer. What the heck? She told me where to meet, and I began trying to prep myself for what I imagined might be an interview. Who are the characters I most like? What is the name of that maid who is Bates's wife? Why did I watch the show? At the appointed time, there was a small group of perhaps 20 people assembled. I watched them from a bit of a distance, not entirely sure I wanted to join. Nah. I retreated to the pastoral grounds, treated myself to tea and began to reflect on the day so far.

Planning your visit

The castle is not open year-round. Check out www.highclerecastle.co.uk for details. You can book your tickets online. Just bring the printout confirmation, which contains a bar code that an attendant will scan at the outer entrance gate.

From London's Paddington Station, First Great Western offers service to Newbury Station. The journey takes about 50 minutes. From Newbury, the taxi costs about $20 each way and takes about 15 minutes to reach Highclere. John Burke, reachable via +44 7900 648 008 or jburke040@hotmail.com is a safe, cheerful, reliable and very helpful driver.

There are ample dining and toilet facilities on the grounds of the estate. The tea rooms in the basement of the house appear old and crusty. I opted for the outside tented facility, which was more like what you would find at a state fair than on the grounds of an elegant home. Here, and elsewhere, I thought that the Carnarvon Family might take a page from the Vanderbilts' Asheville, NC Biltmore House, a true first-class experience throughout.

Notes from West Sumatra

2012-03-22T06:00:00.001-04:00

Ted and I were invited by a CEO friend whose family is originally from this part of Indonesia, where, as another friend noted, the locals are innately good at business. But West Sumatra is, sadly, better known in recent years as the site of a terrible earthquake that claimed many lives and businesses in September 2009.

As in much of Indonesia, natural beauty abounds here in the form of lush vegetation and dramatic geological formations. Lake Maninjau has particular appeal. About an hour and a half drive up steep, curvy, narrow roads from Padang, the province's largest city, the setting in a way resembled Switzerland, though a much less commercially developed version. But a short, 15-minute drive away and you're very much in Southeast Asia, with carefully managed, verdant rice terraces.

We stayed at the Nuansa Maninjau Resort, a sprawling property that is modest in appearance. Its spartan rooms have the feel of cabins. The resort resembled a mid-market lodge in one of many hill stations in India, where we lived previously. It is a peaceful refuge from the more densely-populated metropolis where we live.

Bukittinggi is the closest town, about an hour away. En route, we found several examples of Minangkabau architecture, with its distinctive upturned parabolic lines, like an exaggerated smile. Among the sights not to miss are Jirek Hill, formerly the site of Fort de Kock, now a large park area featuring exotic birds; and the Jam Gadang, or big clock tower, once adorned at the top with a Dutch design, then a Japanese design. A Minangkabau crown now caps the landmark's apogee. Across the street from the clock tower lies a bust of "Bung Hatta," the republic's first vice president, who happened to be from these parts. Jakarta's commercial airport is partially named after him.

Another highlight was a stop at a kerupuk (crisp fried snacks) shop. The one we visited (Nitta) was a large, somewhat open-air market offering an ample selection of sweet and savory morsels. I happened to try one that was made from onions. It was delicious, reminding me of a funyon in terms of taste and a fri-to in terms of texture.

Our CEO friend asked us to help encourage more tourism to Padang. It is a pleasant and unique part of Indonesia.

Melbourne By Bike

2012-02-26T05:31:00.000-05:00

When my spouse and I decided to visit Melbourne and were trying to figure out what to do there, I consulted TripAdvisor and came across Melbourne by Bike tours. The uniformly excellent reviews made me suspicious - were the reviewers friends or relatives of the tour company? Still, I went ahead and booked the tour and it turned out to be the best decision about our trip that I made.

At about $100 per person, the tour is not cheap, but it's certainly worth the money. Michelle, the propietor and guide, loves her beautiful city and is enthusiastic about sharing it with you.

The tour normally lasts about four hours, but she was ready to spend more time showing us around. Michelle knows the city so well that she easily adjusts the tour to accommodate her customers' schedules and preferences.

And after covering much ground during our tour, she followed up by email with very helpful recommendations for what we might do and see on our own during the rest of our stay. Such is her concern that customers leave with the best possible impression of Melbourne.

I recommend you take a Melbourne by Bike tour on your first full day in the city, as an overview, and to get your bearings for the rest of your visit.

Just wear comfortable clothing and bring water. Michelle provides helmets and bikes, and a very thorough safety overview, particularly for those of us not familiar with local customs like hook turns.

Ambiente

2012-02-05T23:13:00.000-05:00

Upon noticing an ad in the paper for its lunch specials, I ventured into one of the Aryaduta Hotel's signature restaurants, Ambiente, which I learned later was, in 1991, the first Italian restaurant in Jakarta. Since then, competition has grown, so much so that this erstwhile culinary landmark seems somewhat vanquished.

I arrived at about 1pm on a Monday, and the sophisticated-looking, tastefully decorated dining room was empty. A Sade album (Stronger than Pride) was playing in the background.

The head server presented the oversized menu, but there were no pizzas listed. I inquired. He said there were four available: Margherita, Tuna, Seafood and Beef; I opted for the Margherita.

As I waited, a small loaf of warm, fresh bread arrived, with lovely red pepper tapenade. It was so good I didn't bother with the olive oil, which appeared to be extra virgin, infused with lavender.

The pizza arrived not so long after, piping hot. It had very good flavor and texture, with a cracker-thin, crispy crust.

Leaving room for dessert, I chose the panna cotta, among the best I've had so far. It was the perfect balance of light and sturdy. The accompanying blueberry compote was a good match (though the berries were small, perhaps from a can), and the S-shaped cookie that ran the length of the large plate added textural balance and further visual appeal.

The service was friendly and very attentive. But then again I was their only guest. They meant well, but their English was not excellent. When I asked about WiFi, they heard white wine. When I ordered panna cotta, they heard pistachio tart. It's a good thing they repeat the order.

Planning your visit:

Mezzanine Level

Hotel Aryaduta Jakarta

Prapatan 44-48

+62 21 2352 1234
info.jakarta@aryaduta.com
http://www.aryaduta.com/jakarta_dining_entertainment_h.php

An Exquisite Brunch at the Ritz

2012-01-05T06:57:00.000-05:00

As we stepped out of the elevator, it felt like we had reached an oasis of tasteful luxury. The three-piece jazz ensemble belted out Christmas tunes in flawless, unaccented English. They were pitch-perfect; the sound quality was thoroughly superb. Combined with the plush carpet, restrained seasonal decor, panoramic views of the city from the nearly floor to ceiling windows, and the calming browns walls and plush, green carpet, the Ritz Carlton’s Pacific Restaurant and Lounge achieved an upscale, sophisticated ambience.

Several of our party had run in a 5k charity race in South Jakarta earlier that morning and could better afford to consume the many thousands of calories that a brunch such as the Ritz's offers. Others of us were more slothful sybarites. One whom shall remain nameless (ahem) had to sample almost every dessert on the buffet, to judge which of the sweet temptations were most worth consuming, concluding that the mille-feuille, almond tart and poppy seed cinnamon roll were among the top.

But we're getting a bit ahead of ourselves. The champagne (or was it sparkling wine?) was very good, though the servers weren't as generous with it as some of us might have hoped.

Several fresh juices were on offer. The strawberry was just right: lightly sweet and just a bit pulpy, enough to remind you that this was the real thing. Pineapple, orange and kiwi were also available. All were invitingly displayed in one-serving, individual carafes nestled among crushed ice in large silver coolers.

The choice of food was appropriately varied, from Chinese pork belly and duck, to traditional Indonesian rendang, to sushi and traditional western cuisine. My favorites were the flat crab cakes, a sort of fusion of a latke and a crab cake, elegantly presented a la Japonaise with a mayonnaise sauce finely criss-crossing the dish, topped with small strips of seaweed and Katsuobushi shavings (or bonito flakes) that seemed to be alive, writhing, I later learned, in response to the heat of the dish.

The de-shelled shrimp coated with an egg-based sauce and lightly fried, and the rendang were less visually interesting favorites.

It was hard for me to imagine a more pleasant brunch in the capital. As soon as I said that, the true foodie among us mentioned that, in her opinion, Orient8 in the Mulia rivals the Ritz as the best brunch in town. I can't wait to see if she's right.

Planning your visit:
Pacific Restaurant and Lounge, Sixth Floor
The Ritz Carlton Jakarta, Pacific PlaceJl. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53
Phone: (62) 21 2550 1888 http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/JakartaPacificPlace/Dining/Pacific_Place/Default.htm

Bistro Boulevard: All About the Duck

2012-01-05T06:51:00.000-05:00

One of central Jakarta's newest restaurants, Bistro Boulevard offers a casually sophisticated dining experience at a reasonable price. The menu and ambience here remind me of Cashion’s, one of our favorite neighborhood places in Washington.

If you've been in Jakarta for over one year already, you probably know this place from its earlier incarnation as Buddha Bar. And if you visit on a Friday night as my spouse and I did recently, you can still hear the thump of club music throbbing from the partially enclosed bar/lounge area. Twice I asked restaurant staff to turn down the music (something I wouldn't have dared or needed to request had it been later in the evening and crowded).

The dining area is cavernous, with vaulted ceilings from which hang imposing black chandeliers and over-size lamp shades bearing black S-shape designs. The cream-colored walls host black and white photos. The lighting is intimate, though not so dark that you can't see across to the other side of the vast hall, where we happened to notice some friends from the embassy. Like a café, the restaurant has hard wooden seats. Cushions would add to guests’ comfort.

For appetizers, try the salmon or duck pate, or the pumpkin gnocchi. The crispy duck is a must for the entree. Alex, the chef de cuisine, explained that it takes four days to make the dish. It took us just a few minutes to devour it. While the skin is indeed crispy, the meat is tender and flavorful, among the best I've ever had. Alex normally prepares the crispy duck with oranges and orange jus, but for a limited time you can also have it with scallops.

The black cod is also good, though it arrived not quite done. I showed the still-raw inner portion of the filet to our server and, a short time later, the fish returned to the table fully cooked, still flaky and tender. The manager and Alex stopped by our table to apologize. I assured them that I was not troubled in the least; some people prefer their fish a bit raw.

For dessert, try the strawberry tart with champagne ice cream. The combination of textures and flavors is satisfying, and the presentation is artful. Other options for sweet endings include the raspberry trio of sorbet, mousse and jelly with yoghurt foam; chocolate mousse; and 15 different kinds of ice cream. Among the more exotic flavors on offer were tomato and coriander. Who knew?

Planning your visit:Jl. Teuku Umar No. 1
Menteng - Jakarta Pusat
Ph: 021 3900 899
Fax: 021 3900 898

Hours: Monday to Thursday, 11:00 – 01:00; Friday to Sunday, 11:00 – 02:00
http://bistro-boulevard.com/

Gluttons in the Tiffin Room

2011-12-10T09:46:00.000-05:00

Our taxi pulled up to the front door and we emerged onto the gravel driveway. Hesitantly, we approached the entrance, disregarding the polite sign indicating the route we desired was for hotel guests only. Still, we were warmly greeted upon entering the original, historic Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

We came here for brunch, because we wanted European cuisine, which our hotel in Chinatown did not offer, and we wanted to take my mother, visiting from half a world away, someplace special.

A professionally attired and composed young lady discreetly checked if it were possible to accommodate our request. In short order she was informed that we could be shown to the Tiffin Room. Along the way, we drank in the hotel lobby’s splendor: its beautiful tapestry, elegant woodwork, and lustrous marble, all in quiet repose.

Upon entering the Tiffin Room, we marveled at the crisp, mint-colored tablecloths and the selection of antique tiffins on display behind the ample buffet. From a previous posting on the subcontinent, we knew the important role these containers play in feeding millions of Indians their lunch each day. We had read about the marvelous efficiency with which bicyclists pick up millions of tiffins each day from homes around Mumbai, transport them to downtown offices, then return them home, with an astonishing 99 percent success rate.

Besides fresh honey, danishes, cheeses and other enticing items, we found plump blueberries, quite rare in this part of the world, where the fruit more often than not comes in the form of jelly or in a can.

A la carte items were also available. My spouse ordered french toast, which was the best I ever tasted - lightly crispy on the outside and fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth-delicious on the inside, topped with real maple syrup.

The service and presentation were exquisite. Our server anticipated our every wish, promptly pulling out the chair for us whenever we returned from the buffet tables. The fine bone china and sterling silver service added an appropriately elegant touch to the affair.

Sublimely sated, we walked over to St. Andrew's Cathedral, to burn calories and to seek forgiveness for our gluttony.

Casual Italian Perfection in Jakarta

2011-10-19T05:51:00.000-04:00

I knew this would be good.

Upon entering the cafe, on the second floor of the Italian Cultural Center, at 117 Jl. Cokroaminoto, in Jakarta's tony Menteng neighborhood, I noticed rolled dough on a red plastic tablecloth covering a round table on my right. A cooking class was underway in the opposite corner of the cozy dining area.

No fuss has been made with the decor. Cigarette burns pocked the vinyl sofa upholstery. There are black and white photos on the wall, evoking Italy of the 1950s and 60s - Sophia Loren, Fellini, La Dolce Vita. I felt relaxed, resolved that I had found a new favorite place to eat and hang out.

The menu is, thankfully, not extensive (who wants to pore over endless options that might or might not actually be available?), though there were more than sufficient choices to allow one to return many times, never having the same meal twice.

The cafe offers salads, appetizers, pastas, osso bucco, and pizzas. I chose the grilled vegetable pizza, which was delicious. It had just the right amount of salt; the flavor of the vegetables and olive oil came through. The thin crust was just a tad chewy in parts, but mostly crispy and light.

There are two sizes of pizzas from which to choose. Despite the name, the kid's size is ample enough for an adult.

It's just not right to end a meal without dessert. There were three options; almond parfait, soft brownie, and carrot cake. Surprisingly, no tiramisu. I like it when the waiter has a recommendation, and he was emphatic about the parfait, which was delightful. Creamy, chilled, with a soft biscuit base. Not too sweet.

I finished the meal with an americano coffee, which was robust and perfect.

The cafe is open for lunch and dinner.
Contact information is as follows:
Italian Institute of Culture Jakarta JL. Hos Cokroaminoto, 117
Menteng, 10350 Jakarta - Indonesia
telephone: +62 21 3927531 - +62 21 3927532

Going Rogue: Ashland and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival

2011-08-30T02:54:00.000-04:00

The Oregon Shakespeare Festival, America’s largest repertory theater, is the reason we now make an annual pilgrimage to Ashland, though there are other reasons to visit – such as the crisp, cool summer weather; pastoral, almost picture-book vistas; and progressive spirit of the town and its people.

But the theater is truly world class and not to be missed. Under the leadership of Artistic Director Bill Rauch, the line-up of productions each year is inspired, creative and extraordinary.

Last year, we saw Hamlet, which was compelling and insightful like no other Hamlet we’ve seen. The actors handled the text in a way that made Shakespearean prose understandable even for a novice such as myself. And there were hip hop choreography, modern military fatigues and other surprising features woven in to make the play more exciting for all audiences and more accessible for younger patrons. What’s more, as is not uncommon now at OSF, there was a deaf actor, who signed his lines in concert with other actors who both spoke and signed, helping to unite us all. It worked.

This year’s line-up was no less impressive and diverse. Moliere’s 17^th century play The Imaginary Invalid was set in 1960s Paris, with costumes evoking the era, including its sartorial far-out, as in outer-space-like, reaches. Making the story über-relevant were references to “the public option” and other aspects of the contemporary health care debate in the United States.

Further information about the Oregon Shakespeare Festival is available at http://www.osfashland.org.

How to get there

Ashland, set in scenic Rogue Valley, is a quick 15-minute highway drive from the Medford, Oregon airport. Delta, United, and Frontier offer service between Medford and Salt Lake City, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Denver. If possible, avoid connecting through San Francisco, where, in our experience, weather and other factors often delay or cancel flights.

Where to Stay

Ashland Springs Hotel

http://www.ashlandspringshotel.com/

212 East Main Street

Ashland, Oregon 97520

This is perhaps the most elegant and convenient place in Ashland to stay. The hotel is within two blocks of the theaters.

Yellow predominates in the bright, but not glaring, décor. The avian interest of the owners is also apparent throughout the hotel, nowhere more so than in its signature restaurant, Larks, which offers sophisticated comfort food in a relaxed but upscale setting.

I love breakfast and the hotel's continental spread (included in the room rate), featuring mini scones and cinnamon rolls, doesn't disappoint. Hard-boiled eggs, fresh fruit, homemade yoghurt with fresh, local marionberries, and oatmeal are also on offer, as are great Noble coffee and a selection of premium caffeinated and decaffeinated teas.

To learn more about the local area, book the walking tour offered through the hotel, for about $7 per person. This is a tour at your own pace, via an individual audio player. The circuit is about an hour and a half around the center of town and bucolic Lithia Park.

Where to Eat

Larks Restaurant, in the historic Ashland Springs Hotel, offers a casually elegant atmosphere and a sophisticated take on comfort food. They do a fabulous cheese plate featuring an artisanal variety locally sourced from the Rogue Valley. Their fried chicken breast is a standard favorite. One of the highlights for dessert is a blueberry tart with homemade blueberry lavender ice cream.

Pasta Piatti

www.pastapiatti.com

358 E. Main St.

Tel. 541-488-5493

Pasta Piatti was a new find for us this year. Don't let the casual décor fool you. This place has among the best Italian fare we've had anywhere. Service is friendly and attentive.

Grilla Bites

http://www.grillabites.com/html/locations/ashland.htm

47 N. Main Street
(541) 488-0889

Our regular place for lunch. Lots of vegetarian options, reliable wifi, near the theaters.

Noble Coffee

http://www.noblecoffeeroasting.com/

46 East Main Street (541) 488-8811 ∙ 281 Fourth Street (541) 488-3288

Coffee doesn’t get better than this. They have a kiosk on Main Street, a block away from the theaters. But their larger location – a 15 to 20 minute walk away, in the railroad district – is worth a visit. Bare-bones décor; it’s all about the exceptional coffee.

Where to eat in Detroit

2011-05-02T22:47:00.000-04:00

There are many great places to eat in the Detroit area. Here are some I want to highlight.

1917 American Bistro

19416 Livernois Ave.

Detroit, MI 48221

313-863-1917

Dad I dropped by for lunch – my first time at 1917 American Bistro, a casually elegant, upscale neighborhood restaurant on northwest Detroit’s Avenue of Fashion. The soothing music of Fourplay set a relaxed atmosphere, while we took in colorful photos displayed on the wall of happy children in Cuba, as well as iconic scenes of 1950s-era Detroit-made vehicles still running in that island nation. The dining room is further decorated in calming cream and brown hues.

Service is friendly, though housekeeping is somewhat imperfect. We noticed crumbs on our table and on our seats where our hostess invited us to sit down. The turkey club, on a croissant, was substantial – far more than enough for just one person. Conversely, the sweet potato pie was a bit small, though delicious. There is a full drink menu; the Stranana Tini and Blue Print were among some of the libations that caught my eye, as well as Zion’s Orange Blush and Jungle Happiness.

Andiamo

6676 Telegraph Rd.

Bloomfield Township, MI 48301

248-865-9300

www.andiamoitalia.com

I met my mentor, John, at this establishment that, in addition to being a very elegant Italian restaurant, happens to be the last place Jimmy Hoffa was seen before he disappeared. John is a regular here, and it wasn’t long before the warm, gracious owner, Jerry Vitale, checked on us. His very high standard of customer service trickled down to the valet attendant, who helpfully offered to park my car and didn’t make me feel like a schmuck for asking how much valet service costs (it’s free; tips are accepted). Self-parking spaces around the restaurant are very few, still fewer when hosting a snow bank.

Avalon Bakery

422 W. Willis, off of Cass

Detroit, MI 48201

313-832-0008

It is not unexpected for Detroiters randomly to speak to anyone who might or might not be listening (the author is certainly no exception). Such was the case when I visited this popular bakery. My dad staked out one of the three small tables while I waited in the growing line. The lady in front of me began to share her thoughts on bread: she can’t eat the regular variety from the supermarket; it’s too soft. She needs the hearty bread like Avalon has. But, she said, “it’s so expensive, so I come here after 5pm, when it’s half-price.” She was disappointed at the fly she noticed on one piece of bread in the display case in which she was now no longer interested. She selected a different type, with which she was satisfied. Dad and I enjoyed our coffee and peanut-butter-and-chocolate-chip cookie.

Beans and Cornbread

29508 Northwestern Hwy.

Southfield, MI 48034

248-208-1680

An upscale soul food restaurant, where well-heeled blacks and the occasional white person can be seen enjoying any number of Southern dishes, like fried catfish or pork chops, in an elegant setting. The sweet potato muffins are uniquely delectable.

Beverly Hills Grill

31471 Southfield Rd.

Beverly Hills, MI 48025

248-642-2355

www.beverlyhillsgrill.com

When it comes to sophisticated dining in the Detroit metropolitan area, it doesn’t get any better than this. Casually elegant décor, inspired American cuisine and outstanding service make this a place you don’t want to miss. Their berry crumble a la mode is sublime.

Los Galanes

3362 Bagley St.

Detroit, MI 48216

313-554-4444

www.galanesdetroit.com

galanesj@yahoo.com

Dad and I have a sort of tradition of having a meal at this restaurant in Mexicantown each time I visit. There are many other similar establishments within a two- to three-block radius, but we especially like this one. It is somewhat less crowded and better-lighted, and offers great, authentic Mexican fare (the wet burrito is delicious and sizable enough for two people to share) at reasonable prices, with friendly service. For dessert, try their fried ice cream, which, thankfully, isn’t actually fried. It’s rolled in a mixture of smashed corn flakes, cinnamon and sugar. If that’s not your thing, head over to La Gloria, almost across the street, for a wider selection of desserts, which could double as breakfast items for the following morning.

Panaderia La Gloria

3345 Bagley Ave.

Detroit, MI 48216

313-842-5722

Jacquie Steingold, a family friend and inveterate Detroit booster, introduced me to this bakery at the foot of the new Bagley Street Mexicantown Pedestrian Bridge. She wanted to show me some examples of how Detroit is coming back, and this was certainly one.

Around the corner from Los Galanes, I had never before noticed it, though the bakery has the comfortable look of having been established there long ago. It is the real thing. Just like you would find in Latin America. When you walk in, grab a pair of tongs, a piece of wax paper to put on your tray, and then go to town. Everything’s good, and the prices are very reasonable. Special favorites are the pumpkin turnovers and the M&M cookies.

Good Girls Go to Paris

Park Shelton Building

15 E. Kirby, Suite 115

Detroit, MI 48202

1-877-PARIS-CREPES

http://www.goodgirlsgotopariscrepes.com/

goodgirlsgotopariscrepes@gmail.com

Conveniently located in mid-town Detroit, across from the famed Detroit Institute of Arts, this place has gotten a lot of buzz over the past couple of years, so I had to check it out. The colorfully-attired, artsy owner, Torya Blanchard, took our order: the “Claire,” consisting of broccoli, chicken and cotswold cheese. Upon tasting it, I think I would have rather it been prepared with cheddar. Mom let me have a bite of her delightful “Melinda (key lime pie)” crepe. Sadly, there is no wi-fi available in the dining area.

Detroit Seafood Market

1435 Randolph Street

Detroit, MI 48226

(313) 962-4180

www.dsmnow.com

Apparently, this is one of the places in downtown Detroit to see and be seen. When Dad and I came here for dinner, we saw a local newspaper publisher, GM executive, the school board president, and probably several other movers and shakers. They all seemed to know each other. Though seated at different tables, they all gave each other a friendly greeting at one point or another.

The large scale murals of fish (it was previously the Detroit Fish Market restaurant) and soaring ceiling gave this place a grand feel. The service was outstanding – friendly and efficient, with just the right balance of attentiveness. Being in Michigan, I had to try to the white fish, which was good. The key lime pie was bizarre. Initially, I was intrigued by this ample mass, which resembled a wedge of cheesecake or a very sturdy flan (our waiter warned us that this was “not your average key lime pie”) and tasted like, well…I don’t know. I think I’m more of a key lime purist than I realized.

Slows

2138 Michigan Avenue
Detroit, MI 48216
(313) 962-9828

http://slowsbarbq.com/

In the shadow of the imposing old train station (when will its billionaire owner finally do something about his derelict, once magnificent property?). Or, maybe the train station is, figuratively, more in the shadow of this busy, hip restaurant, which has won glowing reviews from the New York Times, among others. We tried to go there for dinner, but, there being a one-hour wait, we decided to return for lunch the next day. We had their soup du jure, a delicious white bean soup. The lentils could have been cooked longer, but the pork was succulent; just right. The cornbread we ordered would have been better were it served warm. Service was o.k. We had to ask for napkins for our laps and knives in order to spread the butter onto our cornbread. I’m game to return, when my appetite can accommodate their pulled pork sandwich, a signature dish.

Supino Pizzeria

2457 Russell Street
Detroit, MI 48207

(313) 567-7879

http://www.supinopizza.com/

Hands down, this place has the best thin-crust pizza in Detroit, possibly anywhere, even Italy. As far as décor, it’s bare bones casual; it’s all about the pizza. No hot drinks. They’re working on getting a liquor license.

Turkey Grille

8290 Woodward Avenue
Detroit, MI 48202-2532
(313) 872-4624

http://www.turkeygrilldetroit.com/

The best turkey burgers ever. Great peach cobbler. I hear they also do fantastic deep-fried turkey, as well as mac and cheese. Just get it all to go. The immediate neighborhood gives an unsafe feeling.

Vicente’s Cuban Cuisine

1250 Library

Detroit, MI 48201

313-962-8800

www.vicente.us

This is another one of Jacquie’s excellent recommendations. It’s right down the street from the magnificently restored Skillman Branch library. The Sangria is outstanding.

Where to Eat in Lombok

2011-04-16T04:56:00.000-04:00

Hotel Tugu Lombok

Sire Beach, Sigar Penjalin Village

Tanjung, Lombok

+62 370 620 111; +62 81 937 995 566, 937 995 577, 937 995-588

Lombok@tuguhotels.com

The restaurant at this heritage property is truly stunning. You’ll never forget the dramatic design and lovingly-done heritage décor. It’s worth a visit just for the scenery. And the food is spectacular. Try the fish in curry sauce, cooked in banana leaf. The brown rice is wonderful, as is the eggplant and goat cheese salad. The dark chocolate crème brulée is extraordinary. The staff is friendly, and mostly efficient and discreet.

The Oberoi Hotel

Medana Beach, Tanjung

+62 370 6138 444

Reservation.Toli@oberoihotels.com

The Oberoi: Worth it just for the view

We dined in the casual, open air restaurant on the vast, green lawn, where we took in the view of the otherwise secluded, magnificent beach nearby. Our lunch was an epicurean delight. The prosciutto, artichoke and mushroom pizza was the highlight, with its perfect flavor and crispy, thin-crust texture. We concluded, respectively, with deep (sic) chocolate ice cream, and pistachio and cardamom ice cream.

The service was initially extraordinary. Our glasses were kept full with the complimentary filtered water, and our chairs were promptly pulled out for us when we arrived at the table and, later, when we returned from a short look around. Then, perhaps due to shift change, we had different servers and experienced a different quality of service.

Square Restaurant and Lounge

Jl. Raya Senggigi km. 8

Senggigi Square Blok B-10

Senggigi, Lombok

+62 370 693 688 or 664 4888

The pan fried mahi-mahi is just right. The fish was flavorful and flaky. Perfectly cooked. Also noteworthy was the pumpkin pie with coconut sorbet. Lovely. An epicure we encountered in Lombok warned us off of the triple chocolate cheesecake. Service could be more attentive and efficient.

Asmara Restaurant and German Bakery

Jl. Raya Senggigi

Senggigi Beach, Lombok
Tel.: +62 - 370 - 693 619

info.contact@asmara-group.com

This is where to go for cheesecake and other American/European baked goods.

Where to Stay in Lombok

2011-04-16T00:12:00.000-04:00

Qunci Villas

Jl. Raya Mangsit

Senggigi, Lombok

+62 370 693 800

stay@quncivillas.com

A close friend (thanks, John) told us about Qunci, adding to the list of reasons we are grateful to him. This is, in our view, the best all around value place to stay in Lombok. It’s beautiful here. Tasteful, soothing, chic, Qunci Villas is really three small hotels – two are beachfront almost next door to each other, save for the small guest house owned by someone else. But it’s a quick, easy walk on the beach to get between the two properties. Even the least expensive garden view room in Qunci Hotel is charming. It’s worth it to spend a little bit more and stay at the almost-adjoining, more upscale Pool Villas Hotel. The third property is perched on a nearby hill, offering stunning views of the surrounding area. It is the most exclusive of the three properties.

(A pool villas room featuring paintings by the Dutch artist Symon)

One of the best things about Qunci is their breakfasts, which can be served on your verandah – a feature of all of the rooms. The selection of American/European and Indonesian options is great and improves all the time. On our last visit, we loved their pancakes – an elegant version of the McGriddle, involving two proper American pancakes served with a layer of beef bacon, thin slices of apples, and cheese tucked in between, and finished with a light dressing of maple (sadly, maple-flavored, rather than the real thing) syrup.

If you seek quiet solitude, avoid a room near the restaurant, where each evening beginning at about 4pm, there is somewhat loud club music emanating from the ample speakers, reverberating to nearby guest rooms.

Also in this category of hotels is Jeeva Klui:

+62 370 693035

reservations@jeevaklui.com

If you want to splurge, try the Hotel Tugu Lombok, constructed as a heritage property:

Sire Beach, Sigar Penjalin Village

Tanjung, Lombok

+62 370 620 111; +62 81 937 995 566, 937 995 577, 937 995-588

Lombok@tuguhotels.com

The Oberoi

Medana Beach, Tanjung

+62 370 6138 444

Reservation.Toli@oberoihotels.com

Where to Eat in Jakarta

2011-02-18T04:18:00.003-05:00

Among our favorite places in Jakarta are:

(Indonesian)

Lara Djonggrang

Jl. Teuku Cik Di Tiro 4 Menteng ∙ Jakarta Pusat ∙ Indonesia
Tel. +62 21 315 3252, 316 0288

Lara Djonggrang is a creation of the Tugu Group, whose restaurants and hotels in the archipelago celebrate Indonesian heritage. If you’re visiting Jakarta for the first time and want to try Indonesian food, this is your place. We’ve enjoyed everything we’ve had here, especially the soft-shell crab, and the brown rice, which is presented in the shape of an elephant.

We’ve heard that Dapur Babah, another Tugu restaurant, is even better. They’re at:

Jalan Veteran I / 18 - 19 Jakarta Pusat ∙ Indonesia
Phone : +62 21 7060 2256, 385 5653
Fax : +62 21 385 3040

E-mail : dapurbabah@tuguhotels.com

Oasis
Raden Saleh Raya No. 47

Jakarta Pusat

DKI Jakarta - Indonesia

PH 1: (021)315-0646

Oasis has rijsttafel, an Indo-Dutch leftover from the colonial era. It involves 12-15 dishes presented in ceremonial fashion over a couple of hours. It’s fun, but there is no “light” option.

Another possibility for Indonesian food is Seribu Rasa, near the Mandarin. In truth, it's maybe more pan-Asian than Indonesian per se, but very good, and the ambience is modern and cozy in terms of the lighting and decor, if not necessarily the seating. They're at:

Jl. Haji Agus Salim 128
Menteng
Jakarta Pusat
rsvp : +6221 392 8892

(French)

Cassis
Pavillion Apartment - Retail Arcade
Jl. KH. Mas Mansyur Kav. 24 Jakarta 10220
T 021 5794 1733
http://www.cassis-gourmand.com/

My favorite French restaurant in Jakarta. Extraordinarly good food, presentation, service and ambience. Intimate, plush dining room. Reasonable prices, though the menu also offers opportunities to splurge. Everything's good here, but don't miss the creme brulee trio. Divine.

Bistro Baron

Plaza Indonesia Extension Level 1 Unit E20-E21
Jl. MH Thamrin Kav 28-30 ∙ Jakarta
Tel. (62 21) 2992 3505

This is our all-time favorite restaurant in Jakarta. Bistro Baron closely approximates a Parisian bistro. Great décor, friendly staff, delicious food – whether breakfast, lunch or dinner, you can’t do better than Bistro Baron. It’s located on the ground floor of Plaza Indonesia Extension, fittingly next to Louis Vuitton.

Riva

Jalan Casablanca Kav. 18
Jakarta 12870, Indonesia
tel: (62-21) 828 2000

riva@parklanejakarta.com

Ted loves this high-end restaurant located in the Park Lane Hotel. I like it, too, although I find it a bit too dark and perhaps a bit gloomy in the way of décor. The combination made me a little bit sad. We went there for dinner and it’s possible they just hadn’t got the lighting right that evening. Anyway, in my opinion, the prices are pretty high for what you get. But the service is exceptional.

Lyon

Mandarin Oriental Hotel

Jl. Mh Thamrin
+62 (0)21 3983 8888
mojkt-dine@mohg.com

The Mandarin Hotel does it right, and their restaurant, Lyon, doesn’t disappoint. Its warm, indirect lighting and plush, yet restrained, décor make for a cozy, though not claustrophobic, experience. In my view, the food isn’t over-the-moon, but it is very good. The service is friendly and efficient.

(Indian)

Queen’s Tandoor

Permata Plaza, Jl. MH Thamrin Kav. 57

Central Jakarta – 10350

+62 21 3903287-88

info@queenstandoor.com

We’ve enjoyed the North Indian cuisine here. Butter chicken, chicken tikka, an assortment of dhal, saag paneer, and garlic naan are but a few of our many favorites at Queen’s Tandoor. If you go, book a table in advance for the non-smoking area. They also deliver.

Ganesha

Center Park, Gedung BRI II
Jl Jend Sudirman Kav 44-46. Jakarta
phone : +62 21 5719415, 5713567

and

Kemang Square Lt 2
Jl Kemang Raya No 5. Jakarta
phone : +62 21 7196837

tg@ganeshaeksanskriti.com

We had gotten comfortable going to Queen's Tandoor, but when Indians recommend an Indian restaurant, you kind of have to try it out. That's how it was with Ganesha. And yet I found the food quality to be about the same, which is to say very good. But not necessarily better than Queen's Tandoor, in my view. I do prefer the dining area at Ganesha. Perhaps it's just when I've been there, but there didn't seem to be as much cigarette smoke there than at QT.
(Italian)

Copacaccia

Pacific Place Mall
Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53
Tel. +62 21 5797 3658jakarta@capocaccia.com

A swank, sophisticated little place offering delectable Italian nibbles. The salmon salad is lovely.

(American)

Fat Burger

Plaza Indonesia-Jakarta
5th Fl., Unit #E03,04,04A
Jakarta, Indonesia
+62-21-3107584

Best burgers we’ve had in Jakarta. I can’t recall having better burgers anywhere else, in fact. Friendly staff. Great onion rings. Several types of fries. Great shakes.

(Vietnamese)

Vietopia

Cikini Raya No. 33

Jakarta Pusat

DKI Jakarta - Indonesia

PH 1: (021)391-5893

We love this humble place that offers authentic Vietnamese cuisine at very affordable prices.

(Thai)

Lan Na Thai (aka Facebar)

Jalan Dr. Kusumaatmaja S.H St. No. 85
Menteng Village, Menteng District
Central Jakarta City, 10310
+6221-31925037Steve@facebars.com

Very evocative décor, and the food meets (my very high) expectations. No Thai meal could be complete without mango sticky rice, and Lan Na Thai’s hits the spot.

We also like Phloey, located at:

Panin Centre Building

Jl. Jend. Sudriman Kav. 11,

Senayan, Jakarta Pusat

+62 (021) 726 1570, 739 4018

And we’ve heard great things about the Blue Erawan:

Jl. Cut Meutia No. 2
Menteng, Jakarta Pusat 10340 - Indonesia
Tel: +62 -21- 315 0980 Fax: +62 -21- 314 1903
Email: royalthaicuisine@blueerawan.com

(American/European comfort food)

Café Batavia

Taman Fatahillah

Jakarta – Kota

+62 21 691-5531, 691-5534

info@cafebatavia.com

Located in the historic center of old Jakarta, Fatahillah Square, Café Batavia is an artsy kind of place with the feel of an old colonial mansion with an eccentric owner. It’s fun eating here. No visit is complete without a trip to their racy restrooms. While in Fatahillah Square, the Jakarta History Museum and the Wayang Museum are worth a visit.

Koi
Jl. Kemang Raya No 72 - Jakarta Selatan

+62 21 719 5668kemang@koiindonesia.com

and

Jl Mahakam No. 2, Jakarta Selatan

+ 62 21 722 2864
mahakam@koiindonesia.com

Very chic, modern, casually elegant establishment with outstanding food. I love their cheese soufflé and their rhubarb cobbler a la mode.

Potato Head

Pacific Place Mall G51A

SCBD Jl. Jend. Sudirman

Kav. 52-53. Jakarta Selatan 12190

+61 21 5797 3322

info@ptthead.com

Love this place. The food and drink here are every bit as quirky as the name of the restaurant, and very delicious. Brunch here is fabulous. Try the espresso martini and the scrambled eggs.

(Coffee)

Anomali Coffee

Setiabudi One Building Level 1
Kuningan
Jakarta Selatan
ph: +62 21 5229 228

and

Jl. Senopati No. 35
Kebayoran Baru
Jakarta
ph: +62 21 5292 0102

Best coffee I’ve had in Indonesia. In fact, I don’t think I’ve had better coffee anywhere else in the world, not even in Colombia. They exclusively use coffee grown in Indonesia. Loft-style, minimalist urban design. One of my favorite places to think and write.

Where to Stay in Singapore

2011-02-16T23:43:00.000-05:00

There are countless hotels in Singapore, a small fraction of which we have either experienced first-hand or heard about. Here are the ones we recommend:

The Fairmont – Posh, downtown, within walking distance of the major museums, and there is a metro/underground/subway station (City Hall Station) more or less in the basement. If you stay there or any other Fairmont in the world, by all means join their President’s Club, which is free and provides free internet access and other valuable perks. If you can, spring for an Executive Club Room, which, aside from offering an even more comfortable room, grants access to the exclusive Executive Club Lounge, boasting stunning views of the city and exceptional service. Whether you decide to upgrade, breakfast at Prego, on the ground floor, is outstanding. Their juice bar is our favorite of many wonderful features.

The Regent – Also elegant, walking into the Regent’s lobby is like receiving a luxurious hug. It’s everything you would expect from a Four Seasons property. And you can’t go wrong with the location. The hotel is situated near the Botanic Gardens (a must-see) and the shops of Orchard Road, Singapore’s answer to Beverly Hills’s Rodeo Drive. The Orchard Road metro/underground/subway station is a short walk away. If possible, opt for a Club Room, which entitles you to access the Regent’s Club Lounge, where scrumptious canapés and an wide selection of aperitifs is available for happy hour. Other times, it’s a pleasant oasis of tranquility, with time-appropriate, delectable morsels on an exquisitely presented buffet.

Raffles – No visit to Singapore could be complete without at least a visit to Raffles Hotel. Having not yet stayed in the hotel, we can only vouch for its public areas, which are every bit those of a grand dame, heritage hotel. This is of course where the Singapore Sling was invented. A glass of the sweet, potent concoction in the hotel’s famed Long Bar will set you back about $20. The main floor is often very crowded; upstairs is quieter.

The Ritz Carlton – Somewhat isolated, but beautiful. If you like Dale Chihuly’s colorful, undulating glass art, you’re in luck. It’s everywhere, though tasteful. The Ritz is perfectly located for those who love the performing arts. The durian-shaped Esplanade complex is right across the street. Museums are a bit of a hike, however, and there is no easily-accessible metro station nearby. You’ll mostly have to take cabs, which are fine and not terribly expensive, unless it’s rush hour. And there may be a wait for taxis – they’re not always lined up in front of the hotel. So you’ll have to queue, or call. Either way, be prepared to wait, and perhaps you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Marina Bay Sands – We’ve heard mixed reviews of this recently-opened mega hotel complex offering hundreds of guest rooms, a casino, shopping (it is Singapore, after all) and restaurants. Whether you stay at the hotel, we’re told a visit to its roof-top SkyPark is a must.

Capella – Located on Sentosa Island, Capella is perhaps among the least accessible properties in Singapore. We’re told it is the paragon of luxury.

A Week in Indonesia

2011-01-18T00:13:00.003-05:00

While there are countless places to visit in Indonesia, if you're traveling to Indonesia for the first time, you can't go wrong with Yogjakarta and Bali.

Yogjakarta, considered by many to be the cultural center of Java, is the perfect base from which you can visit ancient temples. From Yogja, the Buddhist Borobudur complex is about 1.5 - 2 hours' drive away. The Hindu temple complex Prambanan is also a must-see, about 30 to 40 minutes' drive from Yogja. Our favorite place to stay is Warwick Purser's d'Omah, 20 minutes outside of the city, in Tembi Village. If you want to splurge, stay at the peaceful Amanjiwo, minutes away from Borobudur.

After a few days in Yogja, take one of the many direct flights to Bali. Ubud, somewhat of a bohemian enclave, is our favorite part of the island. I used to recommend the d'Omah there - a unique, quiet retreat, but I've since become aware of Cinta Inn (http://www.cintainn.com/), which friends confirm is comfortable and probably the best overall value place to stay in the center of Ubud. If you want to spend some time on the beach, both Hyatts, among many other properties, are reasonably-priced and comfortable. For more luxurious accommodations, consider the Conrad Suites. My mom and I recently stayed at the Mercure (http://www.mercureresortsanur.com/), in Sanur, and found it to be clean, comfortable and very good overall value.

Some Singapore Eating Recommendations

2010-11-15T05:19:00.000-05:00

P.S. Café – 2^nd Floor, Palais Renaissance Building, Orchard Road. Of the three P.S. Cafés in Singapore, this location was my favorite. If you’re looking for casually elegant décor and inspired western and fusion cuisine, this is your place. For my Washington, DC friends, the place kind of reminds me of Cashion’s.

Jerry’s has great ribs. Half-slab, fries, cole slaw, finished off with pecan pie a la mode. Life doesn’t get any better than that.

There are probably hundreds (thousands?) of hawker stalls in Singapore, and I didn’t even begin to make a dent. But of the ones I did check out, Food Republic, on the fourth floor of the Wisma Atria building, centrally located off Orchard Road, has a great selection of excellent stalls. We had great Japanese, Indian, Thai, and Malay meals there.