MVP Bokeh – Available in Neutron plastic

Kastaplast Impa – Available in K1 plastic

Discraft Joy Paige Pearce Signature disc – Available in Signature ESP plastic

Explore the Tools On Our Site

Want to explore discs flights? Check out our Flight Chart. It is an amazing resource to help you find discs with the flight numbers you’re looking for. Are you looking for a mold that flies a little differently than your go-to disc? You can find all the molds that are close

If you haven’t seen our Putter Selector, you should give it a try! Use the Selector to filter putters by flight numbers to find the exact putter for your needs.

If you are working on building a complete bag you should check out our Bag Builder page. You can enter the discs you currently bag and get a visual representation that will show you any gaps that might exist.

The post Flight Chart Update appeared first on Disc Golf Puttheads.

Flight Types and Disc Stability

Hyzer: A release with the outside edge tilted down relative to the thrower. For right hand backhand this means a left tilted angle. Hyzers offer control and predictable finishes.

Flat: A level release. Flat shots reveal a disc’s true stability and react according to that stability.

Anhyzer: A release with the outside edge tilted up. For right hand backhand this means a right tilted angle. Anhyzers hold turn and shape wide tracking lines.

Overstable discs: Resist turn and finish with strong fade. Best for predictability in wind.

Understable discs: Turn more easily and need finesse in wind. Useful in tailwinds or for shaping long anhyzers.

Headwind Effects

Headwinds increase the disc’s relative speed, exaggerating high speed turn and reducing forward carry. Expect more turn and less late fade.

Hyzer in headwind: Hyzer helps protect against overturning, but the wind can still mute the fade. Choose a more overstable mold or add extra hyzer to keep a dependable finish.

Flat in headwind: Flat releases are exposed. Understable discs will flip early. Neutral discs may drift. Overstable molds hold their line better, especially early in the flight.

Anhyzer in headwind: Headwind amplifies turn. Anhyzers can flip and crash. Stabilize your disc choice and reduce the amount of anhyzer to stay in control.

Tailwind Effects

Tailwinds lower relative speed. This reduces turn and glide while adding forward push. The disc feels faster out of the hand but behaves more stable.

Hyzer in tailwind: Expect stronger fade with less lift. Drop stability or soften the hyzer angle if you want a straighter finish.

Flat in tailwind: Flat shots stay straighter. Understable molds become easy to control and ride long straight lines. Add a little height to add to the glide.

Anhyzer in tailwind: Tailwind reduces turn, so anhyzers will have to work a little harder. Understable discs are excellent here for long sweeping lines.

Crosswind Left to Right

With wind moving left to right, the disc is pushed right and the wind interacts with the exposed edge. The windward edge controls everything.

Hyzer in left to right: The wind catches the top and pushes the disc down, while reducing lift. Overstable discs will react even faster. Add a little height, or throw a little more flat.

Flat in left to right: Expect right drift. Neutral to slightly overstable discs help hold the center line. Aim slightly left and let the wind move you to target.

Anhyzer in left to right: The wind greatly affects the anhyzer angle and increases lateral movement to the right. Try a more overstable disc or reduce anhyzer to avoid excessive turning.

Crosswind Right to Left

With wind moving right to left, the disc is pushed left and the wind interacts differently with each angle. 

Hyzer in right to left: The wind catches the bottom of the flight plate and really moves the disc left, giving an even stronger fade left. Use slightly less stable discs or soften hyzer angle  to avoid an early dump.

Flat in right to left: Expect left turn and a stronger fade. Neutral discs act more overstable. Aim slightly right to let the wind bring the disc back to where you want to finish.

Anhyzer in right to left: The wind causes the anny shot to drop faster. Aiming higher can help give you more distance. Also consider a more neutral disc.

Shot Selection Tips for Real Rounds

Hyzer reliability: When control matters, throw hyzer. Match stability to wind strength and choose lower lines to lock in landing zones.

Flat precision: Use flat releases when disc choice is dialed in. Stable in headwind, understable in tailwind, and adjust aim in crosswinds.

Anhyzer shaping: Great for carving fairways but wind sensitive. Stabilize in headwinds, aim higher in right to left, and reduce your angle in left to right.

Play percentages: If the bottom of the flight plate is too exposed to the wind, choose a safer angle or consider a different disc. Playing more conservatively will turn out better than forcing hero lines.

Key Takeaways

Headwind: More turn and less fade. Go overstable and keep the line low.

Tailwind: Less turn and glide with stronger finishes. Drop stability and add a little height.

Crosswind left to right: Expect right drift. Control it with stability and lower trajectories.

Crosswind right to left: Expect to drop faster. Adjust aim and soften angles.

Mastering wind is all about pairing the right disc with the right angle at the right height. Spend time in a field and practice each wind pattern until you know how your discs will fly in each condition. When the breeze kicks up during a round, you will be ready to use the wind instead of fighting it. Then you can turn the wind into an advantage.

For a great selection of overstable and understable discs, and everything in between, visit Infinite Discs.

To find the best prices at Discount Disc Golf

The post How Wind Direction Alters Each Flight Type in Disc Golf appeared first on Disc Golf Puttheads.

New Discs

Prodigy M5

This M5 replaces the M5 that was originally approved in 2014. This version is understable, like a seasoned M4. 

Stokely Discs Robin & Finch 

The Robin is a fairway driver designed for straight, controlled flights. It features minimal turn and a gentle, consistent fade that makes it easy to handle for players of all skill levels. The Robin offers dependable precision and versatility, serving as a reliable all-purpose driver on any course.

The Finch is a beaded putter built for control and stability. It shares much of the Wren’s straight, predictable flight but adds a touch more fade and overall stability. The Finch holds lines well in any condition, making it a dependable throwing or putting option for players who prefer a firmer, more stable feel with a bead.

Lucid Burst Treason

The Treason is a speed 10, understable driver from Dynamic Discs. Its understability will help newer players get maximum distance.

New plastics/signatures

Project Grip River, Saint, Claymore

Project Grip is a unique plastic blend from Latitude 64 that combines excellent grip with a solid, torque-resistant feel. By merging elements of two premium plastics, Latitude has created a blend that feels tacky on the surface while maintaining a firm, consistent structure through the rim and core. It’s built for confident throws in a range of conditions, especially when grip matters most.

Zero Pro Dagger, Mercy, Keystone

Zero Pro is Latitude 64’s next evolution of base plastic, offering the grip and feel of traditional putter blends with a major upgrade in durability. With a firm flight plate and tacky surface, Zero Pro provides consistent releases, a confident hand feel, and reliable performance across all conditions. It’s everything you love about base plastic, reinvented to last longer and fly truer.

Ella Hansen Sig MD3
Opto Ice Splash Diamond
Flex 2 Horizon D-Line P2
Vex Breaker Vessel 
Tournament Ring Stag,  Harp
Elevation glO-G Koi, Binx, Gecko, Arowana 

Check out our interactive flight chart HERE

The post Flight Chart Updated appeared first on Disc Golf Puttheads.

Solid Putting Defines Your Game

Your long game needs to be decent enough for putting to matter, but think about how many sloppy throws could have been saved by a clean approach or a confident putt. Now think about the small putts you have missed. Those tiny mistakes often add up more than the big ones.

In traditional golf, a player uses roughly one third of their strokes on or around the green. Disc golf is similar. Approaches and inside the circle putts make up a huge portion of your score. Even John Daly once said he loved the oohs and aahs on his drives but was tired of the sounds people made when he missed short putts. That same energy exists in disc golf. Throwing far is fun. Missing from 15 feet is painful.

1. Solid Putting Saves Strokes

   We are working on deeper data for disc golf putting, but you already know how much these situations matter:

   1. A 200 to 400 foot hole is reachable for many players in two shots. Your putt for par or birdie becomes the whole story.
   2. A short but technical hole might only give you 180 feet of controlled space off the tee. Your approach still leaves you on the edge of the circle with an important par putt.

   
   
   

2. On a 700 foot hole, maybe you crush a 350 foot drive and follow it up with a 300 foot approach. That leaves a 50 foot putt that could be huge depending on the course and competition.
   
3. If your max power is closer to 250 feet, you may reach that same 700 foot hole in three throws but still end up staring at another 50 footer. That putt determines whether the hole feels like a win or a loss.

Most courses mix short and long holes. You cannot rely on power alone. The real strategy is simple. Score on the short holes and hold your ground on the long ones. Solid putting keeps you from giving away easy strokes.

Solid Putting Reduces Pressure

Reliable putting does more than clean up your mistakes. It makes your long game feel easier. When you trust yourself from 30 feet, your landing zone on approaches becomes a huge 60 foot wide circle. That is 2827.43 square feet of room to work with. If you only feel confident inside 20 feet, that usable area shrinks to 1256.64 square feet. A small increase in putting range doubles your margin for error.

Even without the math, picture the idea. A tight landing zone forces you to throw perfect lines. A bigger confidence circle frees your mind. Good putting makes every shot less stressful.

Time to Practice

Putting is the most important skill in disc golf. Skilled putters make the process look simple, but that simplicity comes from hours of dedicated practice. Nikko Locastro once said that putting looks easy only because of the work behind it. He is right.

If you want lower scores and more consistent rounds, invest in your putting. Big drives will always be fun, but making putts is what actually moves your score in the right direction.

And here is a simple truth. Every putt you make is guaranteed to remove one stroke from your score.

The post The Importance of Solid Putting appeared first on Disc Golf Puttheads.

Turn: The Disc’s Initial Drift

Turn refers to a disc’s tendency to veer to the right during the early part of its flight for a right-handed backhand throw (RHBH). This happens when the disc is flying at high speed and is often called high-speed turn.

• A disc with negative turn (e.g., -2 or -3) will drift right more easily. 
• A disc with 0 turn resists turning and holds its line. 
• A disc with positive turn (rare) is extremely overstable and resists any rightward movement.

Common misconception: Many players think “turn” means the disc finishes right. In reality, turn happens early. It’s the disc’s reaction to speed and torque. While a very understable disc might continue drifting right through its entire flight, most discs only turn right during the first part of their flight before slowing down.

Fade: The Disc’s Final Hook

Fade describes how a disc finishes its flight. This is the low-speed portion, when the disc slows down and begins to hook left for a RHBH throw.

• A disc with high fade (e.g., 3 or 4) will finish with a strong left hook. Examples: Latitude 64 Havoc, Innova Boss, Infinite Discs Czar.
• A disc with low fade (e.g., 0 or 1) will finish gently or even stay straight. Examples: Infinite Discs Anubis, Discmania TD, Innova Mako.

Common misconception: Some players describe a disc as “fading right” when it turns right early in flight. Fade is always about the finish, and it almost always means a leftward hook for RHBH throws.

Why People Mix Them Up

It’s easy to confuse turn and fade because they’re both directional and depend on the thrower’s speed, angle, and form. But here’s the key takeaway:

• Turn = early flight, rightward drift
• Fade = late flight, leftward hook

Once you internalize that difference, disc flight starts to make a lot more sense.

How to Use This Knowledge

• For beginners: Look for discs with more turn and less fade. They’ll fly straighter and flatter. Try the Discraft Meteor if you want a disc with high turn and low fade.
• For hyzer flips: Use a disc with high turn and low fade, thrown on a slight hyzer angle. The Innova Sidewinder is a great option for this shot.
• For reliable finishes: Choose discs with low turn and high fade for predictable left finishes. The Infinite Discs Emperor is a dependable choice.

Final Thought

Understanding turn and fade isn’t just about throwing better, it’s about communicating clearly. When you know the difference, you can describe flights accurately, make smarter bag choices, and avoid the classic “wait, I thought it turned left?” confusion. The more you understand the numbers, the more control you’ll have over your throws and your disc golf game.

The post Understanding Turn and Fade (and Why Some People Get Them Backwards) appeared first on Disc Golf Puttheads.

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The Midwest offers everything from beautiful rolling hills and forests to wide-open farmland. It’s also home to hundreds of disc golf courses. Some are tight, wooded technical layouts while others are open and windy. One thing many Midwest courses have in common, though, is relatively flat terrain, especially in local parks and city courses.

If you’re like me, your home course doesn’t have much elevation. Maybe a few gentle slopes that affect your drives or your walk, but you rarely see baskets placed on steep hillsides. Throwing down a big slope is a thrill, but when it comes to putting on elevation, things can get tricky fast.

That became clear during our trip to the 2015 World Amateur Championships at Timber Ridge in Gobles, Michigan. This course was built into ski slopes for the 2008 World Championships and reopened for the 2015 event. It’s a beautiful, challenging layout, and a great teacher when it comes to putting on hills.

Wind and Rollaways

Elevation brings more than slope — it changes the wind. On some holes, we found strong headwinds pushing up the hill and dead air at the bottom. Missed putts often rolled away farther than expected, especially when the basket sat near a drop-off or hazard.

Tip: To minimize risk, consider throwing a stall shot that floats softly and lands flat. Sometimes the safest play is a controlled layup that avoids the dreaded rollaway.

Practice for Confidence

Comfort comes from preparation. Bring a few different putters and practice various stances on a hill. Experiment with how your disc reacts on each slope. The goal isn’t just to make putts — it’s to control where your misses end up.

Tip: Set up a basket on a hill and practice for an hour. You’ll learn how elevation changes your release, and the next time you face a slope on the course, you’ll be ready.

Putting on elevation takes patience, balance, and creativity. Learn from every uphill and downhill miss — those lessons stick with you long after the round.

Written by DG Puttheads — your nerdy disc golf friends who test and tinker so you can play smarter.

The post Dealing With Elevation While Putting appeared first on Disc Golf Puttheads.

One of the first things you might notice when you pick up a new disc is how flat or domey the top of the disc is. Some players swear by domey drivers, while others won’t throw anything that doesn’t look like it was ironed flat. But what does dome height really do to a disc’s flight? Let’s break it down.

What Is Dome Height?

Dome height refers to how much a disc’s flight plate curves upward from the rim to the center. A flat-top disc has very little curve and feels low and sleek in the hand. A domey disc has a noticeable bulge on top, often giving it a taller profile.

Disc golfers sometimes describe domey discs as having a “pop top,” which literally pops when you press the center of the disc. It’s not just a feel thing, dome height can directly influence how a disc performs in the air.

How Dome Affects Flight Stability

Dome height has a significant impact on stability, which is how resistant a disc is to turning over during flight. Generally speaking:

• Flat discs tend to be more overstable.
• Domey discs tend to be more understable.

The reason lies in aerodynamics. Domey discs create more lift because of their rounded tops, which increases glide but can also make the disc more sensitive to torque and wind. Flat discs, on the other hand, cut through the air more cleanly and resist turn better, great for windy conditions or powerful throwers.

Dome and Glide: The Hidden Connection

If you’ve ever thrown a domey driver and thought, “Wow, that thing just keeps going,” you’ve experienced the dome and glide connection firsthand. Domey discs typically generate more lift and stay in the air longer, which can add extra distance, especially for players with smooth, controlled throws.

That’s why certain molds, like the Innova Wraith or Discmania DD3, can vary so much between runs. A domey version might glide farther and flip up more easily, while a flatter one might feel faster and handle wind better.

Flat vs. Domey: Which Should You Throw?

It depends on your throwing style and the shot you’re trying to shape. Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Flat discs: Great for forehands, low-ceiling shots, and windy conditions. They tend to have less glide but more predictable fades.
• Domey discs: Ideal for backhand drives and distance lines where you want extra carry. They’re also helpful for players with slower arm speeds looking for more distance potential.

There’s no universal “better” option. It’s all about matching the disc to your throwing needs. Many players keep both versions in their bag: a flat, overstable version for control shots and a domey, glidey one for max-distance drives.

Why Dome Height Varies

If you’ve noticed that two discs with the same name feel completely different, you’re not imagining things. Dome height can vary due to differences in cooling, plastic blend, and mold wear. Premium plastics like Star or ESP sometimes come out more domey, while baseline plastics can cool flatter.

That’s one reason some online photos can be deceiving. The same mold can fly very differently depending on how domey it is. Infinite Discs includes profile pictures of the discs they sell to help customers see how much dome each individual disc has, and to make better buying decisions.

Final Thoughts

Dome height might seem like a small detail, but it plays a big role in flight stability, glide, and overall feel. A domey disc can help you add distance and height to your throws, while a flatter one can give you the control you need when accuracy and wind resistance matter most.

Next time you’re comparing discs, don’t just look at the stamp or plastic, give the top a press and see how it feels. That little bit of dome might make a big difference in how your disc flies.

Ready to test the difference? Browse Infinite Discs’ selection of flat-top and domey discs to find your next favorite driver or midrange.

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“Wind putting.”
Did that make you cringe a little? Yeah, me too. I didn’t even bother censoring it. Those two words are practically a curse in disc golf. They are something no player wants to hear uttered as they step onto the course. Unfortunately, for those of us who live in wind-prone places like the Midwest, it’s a challenge we can’t avoid.

Your first instinct might be to grab the heaviest, most overstable putter you own and hurl that brick at the chains. If that’s not you, congratulations, you’re already ahead of the game. There’s definitely a time and a place for fighting the wind, but before you go to war, consider this: sometimes it’s smarter to work with the wind instead of against it.

Putting With the Wind

You might be asking, “How do you even putt with the wind when it’s blowing right in your face?” Good question. What I mean is that you should learn how the wind affects your disc and use that to your advantage.

For example, I know that a strong headwind will lift my putter skyward. So instead of muscling against it, I’ll use a lighter, more understable putter, throw it low and a bit to the right, and let the wind do the rest, carrying it up and to the left toward the chains. This approach usually gives me a better margin for error. A soft, controlled putt that misses is far less likely to fly off into three-putt territory than a hard, overpowered throw that sails past the basket.

Know Your Style, Know the Wind

Before you can really plan for windy conditions, you need to understand your own putting style. Are you a hyzer or anhyzer putter? Do you push or spin putt? Each of these styles interacts with the wind differently.

Then think about your putter’s design, its depth and glide. Deeper, floatier putters tend to exaggerate the effects of the wind. And the more spin you put on the disc, the more glide you’ll get, but also the more stable and predictable your flight becomes in a breeze.

I’m a right-handed spin putter (usually on an anhyzer line), and here’s how I expect the wind to behave:

• Headwind: With a nose-up release, it pushes my putter up and left. With a nose-down release, it drives it straight into the ground.
• Tailwind: Pushes my putter down—usually a bit left on an anhyzer line, or slightly right if I throw hyzer.
• Left-to-right crosswind: Lifts my putter slightly and sends it way right on anhyzer or straight lines, or slams it down if I’m on a hyzer putt.
• Right-to-left crosswind: Drops my putter straight down on an anhyzer, kicks it high from a flat line, or sends it soaring high and left on a hyzer.
• Tornado or whirlwind: Can’t say. I’ve never stuck around to find out. I’m open to recommendations.

Finesse Over Force

Here’s the thing: putting is all about accuracy. The more force you use to fight the wind, the less precise you’ll be. Instead of trying to overpower nature, use finesse. Understand what the wind is doing, predict how it’ll move your disc, and aim accordingly. The wind becomes part of the equation, not an obstacle.

Practice Your Style

Don’t wait until you’re standing in a gusty league round or a breezy tournament to figure out how your putt behaves in the wind. Practice on a windy day instead. Throw from every angle you can and pay attention to how your putter and your style react to the breeze. Mix it up with different molds to see which ones hold steady no matter which way the wind is blowing. And while you’re at it, test out all your putting styles, such as straddle, stagger, turbo, or whatever is in your arsenal. The more you understand how each reacts in the wind, the more confident you’ll be when it really matters.

Final Thoughts

Before you automatically reach for your trusty, overstable “wind fighter,” take a moment to evaluate the situation. There are absolutely times when you’ll want that heavy putter, like in unpredictable gusts or light but shifting breezes, but don’t make it your only move. Learn to let the wind help you find the basket. With a little practice you’ll feel confident in any condition.

Finesse, not force. That’s the secret to surviving (and maybe even enjoying) the dreaded art of wind putting.

Check out the best selection of disc golf putters HERE.

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