Rent a bike when in Loreto Bay. It’s a great, eco-friendly way to get around.

If you haven’t visited Loreto Bay or seen photos of the area in recent years, you may be surprised. Those that remember 2005, will remember dirt. That’s all there was here next to the Sea of Cortez. Early homes sold based merely on dreams (not to mention some gorgeous water color brochures produced by the LB marketing team) — and the promise of eco-friendly construction and operation. Three years later everything would come crashing down with the global real estate meltdown and ensuing recession.

Flash forward, and, in 2014, things here in Loreto Bay appear… well… normal. Lovely actually. And, yes, at times, marketing lingo be damned, even soul stirring. How can it not? There’s the stunning Sierra de la Giganta to the West, and the crystal waters that are the Sea of Cortez to the East. Add to the mix the historic fishing village of Loreto, located about 20 minutes north of Loreto Bay, and you have the ingredients for one of the world’s greatest getaway secrets.

Back in the day, living here in Loreto Bay–even for short visits–required several visits to town. That’s changing. Local businesses are popping up along the Paseo in Loreto Bay. There’s a handy General Store, a cafe that converts into a “pop-up” restaurant on occasion (El Corazon), a restaurant (El Cardon), Wine Bar (with a healthy array of flatscreens for NHL, NFL and other sporting events), several property management services (BajaBoss, Bahia Management- who just celebrated their 5th year anniversary, Agua Viva Management, among others), a clothing store, a tour company (Viva Loreto Tours), a community center (with free wi-fi no less), a pizzeria, a spa (Liliz), and, the most recent, addition, a boutique groceteria (Deli/Dali). So, in other words, there’s a little bit of everything for everyone.

Meanwhile, in town, things look a whole lot different than even just a few years ago.

The biggest news in Loreto, at least from an economic perspective, is the emergence of what I’d describe as the area’s first Safeway: Ley Super Express. No longer do I need to buy Coca-Cola Lights individually. I can buy them by the case (and all was right with the world). Same for Tecate. You can’t help but think after watching cashiers process throngs of locals checking out here; a middle class in Loreto is emerging. Word is a Walmart-backed store is soon to follow. In some eyes this is all tainting an innocent seaside town. But note the improvements to the streets (most are no longer dirt), the upgraded Malecon, the bustling local stores, the general air of prosperity, and it’s hard not to believe this is a positive development.

IN PHOTOS: Loreto Bay and Loreto

View to the Sea of Cortez from the viewing tower of a Loreto Bay village home.

Courtyard of a “Nueva Chica” model in the Loreto Bay resort located in Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico.

Inside a Loreto Bay home.

Cupola. Many Loreto Bay homes feature a cupola. Located above the kitchen the small towers help air ventilation.

Farmer’s Market. Every Sunday morning just north of Loreto, off Highway 1, the community congregates for fresh veggies, assorted goods, and for a relaxing time with friends and family.

A drive along Highway 1 (the one and only main highway in Baja and Baja California Sur) reveals many pinch-me viewing opportunities.

Though main roads are typically paved, expect a dirt one here and there – it’s all part of the Baja experience.

If you visit Loreto, consider a trip to the Villa del Palmar resort. Located about 40 minutes south of Loreto Bay, here you can enjoy spa services, seaside dining, and luxurious amenities.

Checking in to the 39,000 sq. ft Sabila spa at Villa Del Palmar.

Hitchcock?

View of “Agua Viva” in Loreto Bay. Located to the north of the development it is the 2nd of two neighborhoods. The first, “Founders”, began construction in 2005.

At the heart of the Loreto Bay resort are two condo buildings (Posadas). Construction stalled in 2008. Sales have resumed, and so has construction.

1 bedroom units start at $179,000 USD.

Many spaces in the Loreto Bay villages feature fountains, and community gathering spots.

A custom village home in Founders, Loreto Bay.

A new home goes up in Loreto Bay.

We interrupt this program to bring you… Revolution Day! A fiesta on November 20, 2014 in Loreto Bay. Truly special.

My wife Loni slips into the Liliz spa in Loreto Bay.

Take a ride.

Entrance to El Corazon, a popular cafe in Loreto Bay.

Loreto entrepreneur Pedro Lopez gives Loni Stark the tour of a lifetime. His new boutique groceteria is located in the north end of Loreto Bay, and will be a great convenience to those looking for last-minute goods.

Dust reduction. Many open spaces in Loreto Bay have been covered with gravel.

A view across Agua Viva.

Sierra de la Giganta!

The lap pool in Founders. World class.

Most pathways in Loreto Bay now feature lighting. Flashlights still come in handy, but night time strolls are now much safer thanks to the increased visibility.

Saludos! Thanks for reading Discover Loreto.

Update: Loreto and Loreto Bay, BCS, Mexico (Photos)
Discover Loreto

Yesterday was, of course, a very special day for Mexico. I was fortunate enough to be here on November 20, 2014, when this incredible Fiesta happened literally steps away from my little casa. I put together a short highlight video of this Revolution Day celebration in Loreto Bay (a resort located about 20 minutes south of the town of Loreto) and was finally able to get it uploaded.

The costumes, the dancing, the singing — all were thrilling.

WATCH: Revolution Day in Loreto, BCS, Mexico

Mexican Revolution Day – Loreto Bay, Baja California Sur, Mexico from Stark Insider on Vimeo.

Watch: Revolution Day in Loreto, BCS, Mexico (Video)
Discover Loreto

If you’re interested in knowing how construction is coming along on the two condo buildings in Loreto Bay I’ve got some photos to share. I posted them over at our San Francisco arts & culture site, Stark Insider, where it will reach a wider audience. Thanks to Nellie Hutchison of BajaBoss who gave us a tour. As you’d expect, the views are stunning. And so are the prices – as in stunningly discounted. Those of us purchased here in 2006 will know that basically everything is half off. At least, prices appear to be stabilizing, and new money is flowing into the project. That should be good news for all of us alike–gringos, local businesses, government, the people of Loreto.

More: Article and photo tour of the Loreto Bay condos on Stark Insider.

Photo tour of the Loreto Bay condos
Discover Loreto

Many here in Loreto Bay (and Loreto) will know Pedro Lopez from his successful Porto Bello restaurant just a few miles south down Highway 1.

“Poco a poco”

Local Loreto entrepreneur Pedro Lopez likes to describe his business as taking it day-by-day, or, as he likes to remind those that visit one of his businesses “Poco a poco” (little by little). Though he could be describing his grocery shop’s expansion into this resort, it could also be used to describe the overall mood these days in Loreto Bay. Little by little, the resort that sits next to the Sea of Cortez about twenty minutes south of the fishing village of Loreto, has seen its fortunes, despite numerous bumps along the way, slowly rise.

In 2008, the real estate recession hit hard. Rebar was left sticking out of the grounds. Home owners abandoned properties. Some six years later and it’s astounding for someone like me, who rode the ups-and-downs since a sales visit here in 2006, to see what a hardened, wisened group of home owners can achieve when working together.

Now Loreto Bay is not only seeing an influx of new money for its charming casas (many which feature airy courtyards and viewing towers affording views of the Sea and nearby Sierra de la Giganta mountain range), but also enjoying the benefits of a resurgent local economy. Entrepreneurs such as Pedro Lopez especially remind of what can happen when locals work with visitors, the local governments and developers – all can benefit.

Owner Pedro Lopez gives Loni Stark (of starkinsider.com) one of the most detailed and friendly, convenience store tours of all time.

Poco a poco means wide selection, but limited volume. That way inventory can be kept fresh and evolve to meet the needs of local consumers.

All this to say…

I can now walk a few hundred yards to pick up an emergency stash of hotdog buns.

Not that’s there’s anything wrong with heading to town. But sometimes it’s nice, in a pinch, to spare the 40-minute round trip drive to the town of Loreto, and enjoy a sunny day hanging around the casa.

Pedro says he’s running his new gourmet grocery and wine store (located on the Loreto Bay Paseo in Aqua Viva next to Dia’s Aqua Viva Management operation) “poco a poco” – in this case that means making the most of an impossibly small space. That it took about 30 minutes for a complete tour–virtually item by item–suggests that Pedro is making good on his promise to bring home owners in Loreto Bay convenience based on needs.

Groceries, now just a short walk for home owners in Loreto Bay.

The “New Deli Loreto BCS” joins the likes of many locally owned businesses now popping up along the Paseo here in Loreto Bay, including: a pizzeria, general store, wine store, gourmet coffee shop, spa, clothing store, among several more. The original vision painted by the founding developers some ten years ago may finally be coming to fruition – in large part thanks to the incredibly well run home owners association (HOA), and the tireless contributions of gregarious, hard-working entrepreneurs such as Pedro Lopez.

Poco a poco. It seems to be working.

Owner Pedro Lopez with Loni Stark (starkinsider.com). In Loreto, you quickly  find yourself invited to pose with for a photo with the owner.

New Deli Loreto BCS: Gourmet & Wine Cellar Purveyor – now a few steps away for Loreto Bay homeowners.

Selection surprises for such a small location. Pedro Lopez says he will make daily adjustments based on feedback, bringing various goods from his main location in downtown Loreto.

“Poco a poco” – Loreto Bay and entrepreneur Pedro Lopez
Discover Loreto

“Explore and have fun on your vacation in Loreto!”

If you’re looking for someone to give you a tour of Loreto and the area, you may want to consider Said Orozco of Loreto Guide. His service is the latest addition to the Discover Loreto directory.

Orozco says:

I am a certified guide by Secretary of tourism of Mèxico, and rescue diver by PADI.

I provide the assistance and information about the site you will visit like the security when you being at the snorkel trip. Specialized with people with diverse skill and ages.

I guide tours at Coronado island, danzante and hiking at the tabor canyon and Juncalito and Ligui. also San Javier mission tour guide, provide all the experience at the sea , as a guide activities, or tour by 10 years working the last 3 years here and 7 years at the caribean of cozumel island.

If you’d like your business included free in the Discover Loreto business and services directory, follow the instructions here.

Read more about Said Orozco and Loreto Guide.

Loreto Guide
Discover Loreto

Food. Wine. Music. Sun. Culture.

Just around the corner…

… and in one of my favorite destinations on Planet Earth.

Mark your calendars: March 22, 2014. That’s when the annual Loreto Food and Wine Festival takes place – Loreto Bay resort (formerly the Inn at Loreto Bay) hosts.

Now in its third year, the LFW fundraiser has quickly built a reputation for being a wonderful celebration that brings locals, businesses, volunteers and expats alike together to enjoy each other’s company in the remarkable (stunning!) surroundings of Loreto (a small fishing village located in Baja Sur in Mexico).

Best of all the Loreto Food and Wine Festival benefits two charities: the Amigos de Loreto and A.C. organizations.

Scheduled events include a silent auction, food provided by the Loreto Restaurant Association, Music by Los Beach Dogs and Aguas Negra (Black Water), and an hourly live auction.

So far as I can tell tickets are only available locally at restaurants (Orlandos, 1697, Domingo’s, Los Mandiles) or in the Loreto Bay resort (via property managers, Bahia Management, Nopolo Wine Cellar, El Cardon, El Corazon Cafe).

If you live or visit Loreto and the Loreto Bay Resort (which is located twenty minutes south of town) chances are you already know about LFW. If you’ve never been to Loreto, and are looking for an adventurous getaway (think: hiking, diving, sailboarding, fishing) not to mention one steeped in culture (the original California mission was establied in Loreto in 1697) you might want to time your visit to coincide with this event.

ALSO SEE: Baja Bound: Inside the Loreto Food and Wine Festival (Video)

Stark Insider was there in 2012 to cover the inaugural edition, and it was a hoot and a half. But don’t take my word for it, watch the video below for a look at what to expect at the Loreto Food and Wine Festival.

Saludos!

[LORETO FOOD AND WINE FESTIVAL]

WATCH: Exploring Food and Wine in Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico

Don’t miss Loreto Food and Wine Festival 2014
Discover Loreto

“Morado” – a short film shot on location at Misión de Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó.

This is the first film to receive a “Loreto Oscar” awarded by Emmy-winner Jane Lurie on 11/28/2013.

Te amo. What is real, imagined? A discovery of love, ambition, truth.

“MORADO”

LOCATION
Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico

STARRING
Loni Stark

DIRECTED BY
Clinton Stark

THANK YOU
Loreto Film School

WARDROBE
Jennifer Cockrall-KIng

MUSIC
Mitsou
Rebekah Del Rio

“Morado” music video shot in Loreto (VIDEO)
Discover Loreto

“On October 19, 1697, Salvatierra, with a small group of soldiers, disembarked from the galley “Santa Elvira” in the Bay of San Dionisio at 26° N latitude. In the first days after their arrival, the missionary erected a modest structure that served as a chapel, to the front of which they affixed a wooden cross. On October 25 they carried the image of the Virgin of Our Lady of Loreto in a solemn procession, a ritual of faith that claimed the area as Spanish territory. Thus began the Mission Loreto.”*

Here’s a short video (see below) I shot in Loreto, Baja California Sur for a Stark Insider TV episode that features the gorgeous Mission Loreto.

Scenes from Loreto in this clip include: Downtown Loreto, El Rey del Taco, City Hall, the first Spanish mission, the Malecon and Sea of Cortez, and the Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto.

We’ve been filming various segments in town and also at the Loreto Bay resort in Nopolo (about twenty minutes by car on Highway 1). While I won’t be able to fully edit the various videos in their full form until I get back to the rig back home in Silicon Valley, I had a bit of a lark assemblings odds and ends. In case you missed it, we also shot some footage at the (always) remarkable Farmer’s Market. And Loni Stark was caught on her Loreto Bay tower painting the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range for “The Artist Diaries”. And I admit it: there’s more than a tad of self-indulgence- no doubt, I filmed this partly in honor of my chica Loni Stark’s birthday which we celebrated here in Loreto. I couldn’t think of a more special place to spend that special day.

Beauty overloads the region. There’s few places in the world where the sea and mountains conspire to create such jaw-dropping vistas. This time, with “Soul Searching,” we toured downtown. City Hall is an iconic landmark. And the Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto, of course, a piece of rich history. Walking through these magnificent structures leaves a lasting impression.

Can a soul be saved in Loreto?

WATCH: “Soul Searching” in Loreto, BCS, Mexico

“Soul Searching” in Loreto, Baja from Stark Insider on Vimeo.

* Source: Wikipedia.

“Soul Searching” in Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico (VIDEO)
Discover Loreto

In You’ve Got Mail (1998) mega-chain operator Tom Hanks falls in love, online no less, with Meg Ryan. Little do they realize that she runs a little corner bookstore – the very sort he’s trying to run out of town. 2013 for the town of Loreto, Baja California Sur (the historic capital of the Bajas) will go down as its “You’ve Got Mail” moment.

Romance vs. Capitalism: Tom Hanks and Meg Ryan in ‘You’ve Got Mail’.

Grocery chain Ley (“Casa Ley”) opened this year in Loreto, and threatens to shut down many a family-run business. It’s a big deal. Along with Carlos Slim buying Loreto Bay (most of its significant non-homeowner owned assets) it’s the most significant news in years.

U.S.-based Safeway Inc. (NYSE: SWY) owns 49% of Ley. You can bet that the Pleasant, California-based company knows a thing or two about scale. Operating 1,700 stores and with $41 billion (USD) in revenue Safeway is the second largest grocery chain in North America. This is important to know because operational expertise, resources and scale are absolutes when it comes to running a retail business that runs on next-to-no margin. With Safeway as a major backer, Ley, which operates predominantly in the western states of Mexico, has substantial capability to draw from. The little guys don’t stand a chance – unless they specialize or differentiate. For them Ley is anything, but romantic or comic.

Walk into the Ley grocery store here in town and the first thing you notice is the meticulous attention to merchandising. Borrowing from the Costco playbook, electronics are the first thing you see. Tablets, small televisions, and other consumer products are prominently displayed on shelving just inside the main doors; the scale is far, far smaller than a typical North American Costco, mind you, but the idea is there. Also, aromas of fresh baked goods waft across the storefront. It’s inviting. Gringos will feel immediately at home. Frozen goods are located along the back. Multiple cashes are open at any given time resulting in short wait times. Every indication points to a well capitalized operation. Everything from training, stocking levels, and ambiance appears to come from time-tested processes and procedures.

Pre-Leh Loreto, and Post-Leh Loreto

Competition is generally a good thing. But it doesn’t come without pain. Sadly, there are winners and losers. Talking with many locals, I’ve learned that many of the mom and pop shops in town are “stepping up their game.” Mid-sized grocer El Pescador, for example, has re-arranged its aisles, hired an “ambassador” for English-speaking patrons, and attempted to add in-demand goods that can’t be found elsewhere.

Anecdotally, I’ve detected a decrease in traffic at various smaller grocers around town. Head to Ley and the energy is palpable. The parking lot is busy (finding a spot is often difficult), kids run around enjoying some of the soft ice cream served out front, and, overall, there’s a somewhat festive feeling to the shopping experience. Contrast that to near empty, somber stores nearby, and, it’s hard not to empathize. Many of the stores in Loreto have operated for decades, many even longer, handed down, generation after generation.

MORE Stories from Loreto

Construction to Resume on Loreto Bay Condo Buildings PLUS: More Signs of Growth (Video)

Video of New Loreto Farmers Market

‘Soul Searching Baja’ (Video) – Cinematic Loreto

Progress seems inevitable. Loreto is not immune. How she responds will be a developing storyline. FONATUR (Mexico’s tourism agency) appears committed to making the region a jewel of the Baja – an unprecedented mix of beauty, tourism, economic Mexican prosperity. Now that Carlos Slim has financial interests here (word is, he wants to upgrade the Loreto Bay hotel, located on the Sea of Cortez, to a five-star luxury resort), there are many signs that Loreto is on the verge of a new era of growth, beget by commercialization. Sources tell me work will soon resume on the unfinished condo buildings in Loreto Bay.

It remains to be seen how this stage of Loreto’s growth will end. Don’t expect it to come without a tear or two. Hollywood screenwriters would give us the happy end we all know and want. That’s very much a possibility. A large operator like Leh and Safeway creates jobs. Overall, the effect can positively impact a community. This much I know: the Post-Ley era has begun in Loreto.

Loreto, Baja confronts ‘You’ve Got Mail’ moment (Ley Supermarket)
Discover Loreto

Building permits have been obtained for the two unfinished condo buildings in the Loreto Bay development. Work is scheduled to resume soon on the four-story “Posadas.”

A quick on-the-ground real estate update from Loreto (Baja California Sur, Mexico) including a short video below from Loreto Bay.

Good news! I’ve confirmed through multiples sources that building permits have been obtained for the two Posadas in Loreto Bay. This opens the door for construction to resume. Though we’ve heard this several times before over the years, this time it appears to be the real deal. According to Jeff at Homex, who has worked closely with Nellie Hutchinson, there could be anywhere from 100-150 workers on the ground in the weeks and months ahead.

Those that purchased units in the condo buildings in 2006, soon saw their dreams go up in smoke when the real estate downturn crushed the economy just a few years later. Construction halted; not just on the condos, but also across the entire project. Loreto Bay, of course, was not immune to the global economic shocks.

In 2008, the developer (Trust for Sustainable Development or ‘TSD’) declared bankruptcy. Soon thereafter Mexican builder Homex stepped in. But that effort soon stalled. Meanwhile social media would play a key role in keeping the home owners collectively organized, somewhat leveling the playing field in their ability to manage throughout the chaos.

Enter Mr. Slim

Stalwart and titan of industry, and one of the world’s richest men (if not the richest), Carlos Slim bought major concerns this year; holdings include the hotel, tennis complex, golf course, various lots, and unfinished Homex lots just south of the main development. This news is, in a word, welcoming.

For an extended recap of the ups and downs of the Loreto Bay development here in Baja California Sur, Mexico you might want to check out my update on Stark Insider: Loreto Bay Re-Visited – Stories, news, photos.

Located centrally along the Paseo (the main road in Loreto Bay) and with stunning views of the Sea of Cortes and Sierra de la Giganta, the Posadas play a key role in the last mile of completely developer David Butterfield’s original vision; that there is once again the sounds of construction crews in the area will be a huge relief to many. Not only buyers, but also to local businesses and to those concerned about the well being of tourism in this region of Mexico. Given their physical prominence–the two four-story buildings tower above nearby casas–it will be great news to see the original design come to fruition.

Signs of Growth Emerge Once Again

The news comes on the heels of several other projects perhaps indicating the region is once again on the verge of, if not runaway prosperity, at least economic stability:

— the widening of Highway 1 to four lanes (it’s in progress right now as I write this)

— a general store scheduled to open along the paseo, across from the Posadas

— in town the new ‘Ley’ grocery store has opened – it’s a good news/bad news story which I’ll have more on soon

— the resale market for casas has picked up – we’re seeing new buyers, new faces across the community

— restaurant appear to be doing well – of course, that’s partially due to the busy season (lots of snowbirds from Canada here, and visitors celebrating Thanksgiving from the U.S.); anecdotally though it appears much busier y/y

— the Farmers Market has relocated (I’m not sure if this is permanent) – I shot this video there last weekend at the Loreto farmers market and am happy to report that it’s a great as ever (why is it that chicken tastes better here than anywhere else?!)

WATCH: 60 Seconds on the Ground in Loreto Bay

Construction to Resume on Loreto Bay Condo Buildings PLUS: More Signs of Growth (Video)
Discover Loreto